Walnut – tall heat-loving plant, which can delight gardeners with abundant harvests for decades. If you provide the tree proper care, it will bear fruit abundantly every year. Walnuts are grown not only in southern regions our country - it will take root well in temperate climate, if you choose the right method and time of planting.
You can grow a nut from seeds or by grafting. The second method, although it allows you to preserve the best varietal qualities of the “mother” plant, is only suitable for experienced gardeners- this is the highest skill! It is much easier to buy a healthy seedling from a nursery and root it on your site.
What type of walnut to grow?
If your main goal when growing walnuts is to collect a bountiful harvest of tasty fruits from the tree at the end of each season, choose fruitful varieties. Breeders have bred many plant species that are not afraid of cold weather, are resistant to diseases and pests, and are famous for the high quality of ripe nuts.
When choosing a walnut variety to plant on your site, consider the following indicators:
Productivity;
Fruit ripening time;
Resistance to cold, pests and diseases;
Taste qualities of fruits.
Let us designate the most popular walnut varieties that will take root on the plot of an ordinary summer resident:
Ideal. The most popular variety, takes root well in any climate, even in the north. Since trees can withstand temperatures down to -35 ˚C, they do not need to be covered for the winter if the thermometer in a particular region does not fall below this mark. The plant begins to bear fruit in 2-3 years. Adult specimens reach a height of 4-5 m. Harvesting can be done in September. The kernels are very tasty. Reproduction of the Ideal variety is possible only by seeds.
Giant. The seedling will bear fruit only 5-6 years after planting, reaching a height of 5 m. The fruits are very large, round in shape.
Elegant. Drought-resistant variety, resistant to many diseases and pests. It does not tolerate severe frosts well, so it is more suitable for growing in southern and middle latitudes. The tree bears fruit 5 years after planting. The kernels ripen at the end of September.
Breeder. The tree bears fruit with thin-shelled nuts and is resistant to pests and diseases. You can taste the ripe kernels in early September.
Abundant. The plant grows up to 4 m in height and begins to bear fruit in the 4th year of planting. The nut is disease resistant, but does not tolerate cold well.
Dessert. A medium-ripening variety that produces slightly sweet fruits already in early September. The tree is drought-resistant, with severe frosts the wood of the plant may be damaged - without winter shelter can't get by. Kernels appear on the branches 4 years after planting.
Fruitful. Tall, productive variety, which begins to bear fruit in 3-4 years. The nuts are ready for harvest at the end of September.
Dawn of the East. An early ripening variety, loved by many Russian gardeners for its excellent nuts taste qualities. The plant is up to 4 m in height and can withstand severe frosts. Fruits in 4-5 years.
Aurora. The tree can grow up to 6 m in height. It begins to produce tasty fruits at the 4th year of life. The harvest takes place at the end of September.
To grow nuts in northern latitudes, choose winter-hardy early ripening varieties . For the middle zone, almost any type of plant is suitable.
Where to grow walnuts?
The nut not only produces tasty fruits, but also decorates the garden. To ensure that the crown of the tree delights with lush foliage, choose a suitable place for the new resident of the garden.
Give preference sunny, ventilated areas with well-drained soil. Wetlands walnut won't tolerate it. The best place there will be a plot behind the house for its cultivation - so tall tree will not shade other plantings.
The seedlings will grow greatly over time, so place them at a distance at least 5 m from each other. When planting a plant on a slope, you can follow a different pattern - 3.5 m between specimens. The rows, according to the advice of experienced gardeners, should be directed from north to south - this will give best angle lighting trees during the daytime.
Preparing the soil for growing walnuts
Walnut prefers loose carbonate loams. If the water does not drain well from the ground, the tree will stop growing and will not produce a bountiful harvest at the end of the season. If there are poor soils on the site, it is advisable to replace (or at least additionally feed) top layer land. To do this, enter here manure, ash and superphosphate followed by digging up the planting site by 50-80 cm. Such “replacement” of the soil will have to be done every year in the future, digging up the soil in the tree trunk circle along the width of the tree crown.
To make the tree grow faster and give bountiful harvests for several years, before its landing prepare the ground:
Dig landing hole with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 40 cm.
A couple of days before planting the seedlings, place fertilizers on the bottom of the hole - humus, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
Stir the nutrient mixture and pour in 40 liters of water.
In the first years of a walnut’s life on a plot, the “correct” soil composition is very important to it. Therefore, do not ignore the importance of the preparatory stage.
Planting walnut seedlings
The easiest option for a novice gardener is to buy a 3-4 year old tree seedling. Buy planting material from specialized nurseries or from trusted private sellers. The seedling must have developed shoots without signs of disease or wilting.
Living in middle or northern regions, plant in the spring, when the threat of returning frost has passed. The seedling will survive autumn planting only if warm winter, which is observed only in the southern regions.
Walnut seedling
Before planting, remove damaged roots and treat them with a special solution that will improve the plant’s survival rate in new conditions. Root the tree into a previously prepared hole, carefully straightening its roots. Make sure that root collar was at ground level. Compact the soil a little and water it.
If necessary, you can provide support for the nut for the first time.
Planting walnut seeds
Growing a nut from seeds is enough labor-intensive method landings. But its main advantage is that with proper care of the plant it will quality characteristics may exceed the “mother” tree. The main problem is to buy high-quality seed material. Head to the farmers market for the right nuts:
Large,
With intact shell,
No traces of rot.
Buy seeds from previous season. It is impossible to say with certainty exactly when they will hatch. It all depends on the specific variety, quality of the material and climatic conditions. Seed preparation begins long before planting.
Be patient and follow the technology:
Soak the nuts for 2-4 days in warm water. For this, you can also use special solutions that accelerate germination. Change the water every day to prevent the kernels from rotting.
Stratified seeds germinate better. To do this, they are placed for a couple of months in slightly moistened sand or sawdust. Keep planting material at a temperature of 2-5 °C.
After this time, transfer the container with seeds to a more warm place, change the soil in the pot. This is where they will germinate. Sprouted nuts can be planted in the ground in early May or grown indoors until planting in the fall.
Sprouted walnut seeds
When planting seeds in the ground, place them on their side, to a depth of 5-11 cm. Sprinkle soil on top and tamp down a little. In the first years of life, the nut will require careful care. But as practice shows, with good care, seeds planted in the spring will produce seedlings up to 20 cm high by the end of autumn.
Growing nuts in a greenhouse shows good results. In a couple of years you will have it ready for landing on open area seedling.
Proper care of walnuts
Young plantings especially need care. Now they need a lot of light and nutrients to active growth. In the future, when the tree grows, it needs to be pruned regularly.
The rules for caring for nuts are as follows:
Watering. Plantings are actively watered spring-summer period– 2 times a month will be enough. Water young trees more often in extreme heat. If you have chosen drought-resistant variety nut, the plant can “survive” a month without watering. Moisten the soil at the rate of 3 buckets of water per 1 m2 of land. To protect the soil from drying out, mulch tree trunk circles sawdust
Feeding. Walnuts are fertilized 2 times per season. In early spring, before plowing the area, apply nitrogen fertilizers. Use such fertilizers carefully, as their excess can lead to the spread of diseases. In the first few years of nut fruiting, refrain from using nitrogen - this is important for future production. high yields. In the fall, before the plant goes into hibernation, feed it with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Trimming. Only young seedlings need to form a crown - adult specimens do not need this. Try early spring Do not cut dried branches from the tree - the plant may lose a lot of juices, which will affect its growth and development. Carry out all manipulations no earlier than June. Do not remove the shoot completely - leave a small branch until next season.
Walnut trimming scheme
Walnut does not like deep loosening– its roots should remain undisturbed during the period of active fruiting. Even apply fertilizers without intensive digging of tree trunk circles.
When to harvest?
You can easily determine the time of harvesting ripe fruits by the green pericarps. When they begin to crack, you can enjoy the delicious nuts. But the pericarp is poorly removed from “fresh” fruits. Therefore, keep the nuts in a dark place for a couple of weeks - a basement will do. The shell will soften and you can easily remove it from the fruit.
Walnut in the pericarp
Will not interfere during cleaning put gloves on your hands, since there is a lot of iodine in the pericarp, your hands will turn black. Then rinse the nuts well and dry in the sun.
How to protect walnuts from diseases and pests?
If we compare walnuts with other fruit trees, insects and diseases do not attack them as often. But certain measures to protect it from “misfortunes” will still need to be taken.
Trees get sick, as a rule, due to improper care - either the plantings do not have enough sunlight, or water stagnates in the area. Dangerous diseases nut:
Brown spot. Fungal disease manifests itself during periods heavy rains or when excessive watering– the flowers fall off, as a result of which the plant’s productivity is significantly reduced. The fungus, if you notice traces of it, must be destroyed, since its spores can overwinter until the next season, further damaging the plant. To do this, spray the plantings with 1% Bordeaux mixture at least 3 times a season.
Bacteriosis. The disease develops in the spring - when there is warm, damp weather outside. You will notice it immediately - dark spots form on the shoots, leaves and flowers. The affected plant will produce much less fruit as the ovaries die. To prevent and treat walnuts from bacteriosis, spray them with solutions of urea and Bordeaux mixture.
Root cancer. An infected plant completely stops growing and bearing fruit because its roots are damaged. You recognize the disease by raised growths on the roots. They need to be removed and the cut areas treated caustic soda and water.
Roots of a walnut affected by cancer
Insect pests that attack walnuts - nut warty mite, white butterfly, aphid, codling moth, moth moth.
The danger is not even the insects themselves, but their larvae - they suck out all the juices necessary for the development of the plant from the tree.
Gardeners fight beetle infestations using similar methods - cutting and burning damaged shoots.
The main task is to prevent insect caterpillars from spreading throughout the tree.
It is better not to use pesticides (especially during the flowering period) - biological agents are more suitable.
Autumn is a time not only for apples and potatoes. Another well-known fruit is the walnut. Its mass collection occurs between September and the end of October. When and how to properly collect walnuts, as well as preserve the harvest for the whole year, you can find out by reading this article.
Controversial question: green or brown?
A dilemma often arises between when is the best time to harvest walnuts:
- Pick in green shells at the end of August. And then store for two weeks in a cool room for ripening. Clean, dry and store?
- Collect fallen fruits or shake them off trees after the shells crack?
Having reviewed a lot of literature, we can safely say that nuts that have ripened on the tree themselves will be healthier. They are stored better and have a greater supply of minerals and vitamins. But, when there is no time to wait for cracking and falling, then you can pick them in late August-early September while still in green shells. Thus, the number of nuts collected may be greater, because squirrels, woodpeckers and other hunters for this fruit will not be able to take some of the harvest for themselves.
It is important to consider: the drying process for further storage of unripe nuts will take longer, since the percentage of moisture in them is higher.
1. Time to collect nuts: timing and signs of ripening
Depending on the variety, there are three main groups:
- Early ripening: bloom in May and ripen at the end of August.
- Mid-season: shell cracking occurs in September.
- Late ripening: bloom in June and ripen in early October.
External signs of maturation:
- shell cracking;
- yellowing and looseness of the outer shell;
- yellowing of foliage;
Based on the variety and these characteristics, the harvest will not be missed.
1.1. How to collect correctly
A few tips to help make the collecting process easier:
- Protect your hands with gloves to avoid permanent brown stains.
- Knocking down high-hanging nuts with a long stick is convenient, but bad for the tree. This can damage many branches, which will dry out in winter, and next year the harvest will decrease.
- It is safe to shake fruit from the tree. But the collection process itself may take several days.
- Fruits with thin shells need to be collected special device: on a long stick a bag with a fixed hard top or a container, like for apples.
- Nuts that fall should be collected on the same day; after lying on the ground for more than a day, they may become moldy inside and will be unsuitable for further storage.
1.2. Actions after collection
After the harvest is harvested, you need to carry out a number of manipulations for further storage:
- Rinse the nuts if they are too dirty;
- Remove the shell if it is loose;
- Dry on fresh air on sunny days, spread in a thin layer.
- Carry out final drying near a heat source or several hours in the oven at 90°C. If the temperature is higher, then some of the nutrients will be lost.
1.3. Storing Hard Nuts
When everything is collected and dried, it’s time to decide how and where to store the crop. There are two options:
- Peeled and folded into vacuum bags or in cardboard boxes. In this state, in the refrigerator, at a temperature of about 2°C, they can be stored for up to a year. But we must remember that the kernels must be well dried in order to avoid the formation of mold.
- In the shell, whole and unharmed, well dried, folded in cardboard boxes, or better yet, in nets. Place or hang in a dry, warm, ventilated area. An attic may be the best option.
People's advice: For better preservation of nuts in the shell, in order to avoid the formation of mold during storage, you need to soak them in salted water before drying. cold water on nseveral hours, and then dry to the desired condition.
If you harvest as described in the article, then there is no doubt that the walnuts will be stored for at least a year, and even two or three. The main thing is not to rush into storing them in nets so that the entire crop dries well. After all, if the humidity exceeds 5-8%, such fruits will not last long. It is better to eat damaged nuts immediately or store only the core.
The birthplace of the walnut is Central Asia. So why is it “Greek”? Because this type of nut was brought to us by Greek traders almost 1000 years ago, transporting their goods “from the Varangians to the Greeks.”
It is believed that the conditions for growing walnuts are ideal in the south of Russia, Crimea, the Caucasus and Ukraine.
Walnuts are very tasty, being a raw material for confectionery, they are very beneficial for human health, and wood is a valuable raw material for the furniture industry.
To plant walnuts, you need to choose a place very carefully.
The tree should receive enough light from all sides. Only in this case will it form a beautiful, spreading crown. If there is a need to plant several walnut trees, the planting interval should be 5 m.
Read also: Superphosphate: application of fertilizer
Selecting soil and planting seedlings
When choosing a place to plant a nut, you must take into account stagnation groundwater Harmful for him, he does not tolerate waterlogged and very dense soil. The best option Lightly moist loamy soil is considered.
Before planting a nut, it is very important to properly prepare the soil, especially if the fertile layer is thin. It is necessary to add manure mixed with ash and superphosphate to the soil. The ratio of these components is as follows – ½ superphosphate + 2 cups wood ash for 1 bucket of manure or humus.
To plant a nut, you need to dig a hole, the depth of which is about 80 cm, the length and width are 40 cm. The bottom of the hole is lined with plastic film. After this, the roots are carefully laid out horizontally on the film and sprinkled with improved soil.
As the tree grows, it is necessary to improve the soil around the tree annually along the width of the crown.
Growing methods
There are two ways to grow seedlings:
Each of these methods is worth considering.
Seeds
To receive quality seedlings, it is important to choose the right nuts. Your choice is best to focus on those varieties that grow and bear fruit well in the area.
We begin harvesting nuts for planting from the moment the green shells of the fruit begin to crack. We choose large fruits, without flaws. The shell should not be very hard, allowing the kernel to be easily removed. The selected fruits are dried in a dry room at room temperature.
Conditions for growing walnuts from seeds
For better germination The nut fruits are stratified at a temperature of 0-5 degrees for 100 days, placing them in the refrigerator. For thin-shelled nuts, the stratification regime lasts 45 days at a temperature of about 18 degrees.
When the soil warms up to 10 degrees, this could be in mid-April, nut seeds can be planted. Pre-preparing the light loamy soil. Planting depth is 8-11 cm. The larger the nut, the deeper the hole. Place the fruit sideways, on its edge.
The nut grows slowly. Only at the age of 5-7 the seedlings can already be planted on permanent place. For rootstocks, seedlings can be taken after 3 years.
If you plant seedlings in a greenhouse, the material for rootstocks can be used as early as next year, and seedlings for planting in a permanent place - after two years.
Vaccination
For rootstocks, seedlings are grown in small pots in a greenhouse. At the age of two they can be vaccinated. In December, seedlings intended for grafting must be brought into a room where the temperature is 10-15 degrees. This will help strengthen the shoots. Best time for this procedure - February or the first half of March.
After grafting, the seedlings are transferred to a room where the temperature is 22-25 degrees. They are planted in the ground in mid-May, when stable warm weather.
How to properly care for nuts
In order for a nut to bear fruit well, it is necessary to properly care for it. Care includes: watering, fertilizing, pruning.
Read also: How to treat cucumbers with whey
How to water
Seedlings and young trees require regular and abundant watering, since their intensive development requires a lot of water. Under each tree you need to pour 2-3 buckets of water once every two weeks. If spring and summer are dry, water more often.
Mature trees that have reached a height of 3-4 m are watered only during drought. To conserve moisture, the root circle under the nut is mulched with peat or straw.
Top dressing
The nut needs feeding twice a year - in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, and in the fall.
The tree is fed with nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in the fall.
Nitrogen fertilizers must be used carefully; they can create favorable conditions for the development of pathogenic bacteria harmful to young seedlings. In the spring, you can apply a small amount of rotted manure under the nut, and in the fall - chicken droppings. Fertilizers are applied carefully, without loosening the soil, so as not to damage the root system.
Trimming
Walnut is a tree that forms its crown on its own. However, if there is a need to correct it, pruning should not be done in the spring. It is better to postpone this procedure to June-July.
Growing walnuts in the garden and caring for them taking into account the climate
If you need to remove a large branch, pruning is done in two stages. First, remove part of the branch, leaving a long twig. The next year, this twig, which has already dried out, is removed from the tree, and the cut area is lubricated with garden varnish.
Such easy care behind the tree will allow you to collect bountiful harvest nuts
By adding fertilizers to the soil when growing walnuts, one aims to enhance growth, increase fruiting and the overall stability of the walnut tree.
The use of fertilizers to enhance walnut growth is not always necessary. According to their own biological properties he has rapid growth and therefore does not require additional stimulation. For its culture, areas with sufficient fertile soil, where fertilizers are not needed in the first years of plant life. Thus, it is possible to use fertilizers to enhance the growth of walnuts only in very limited conditions, for example, when growing them on poor, infertile soils (sandy slopes with heavily eroded soils, etc.).
Increasing the growth of walnuts by applying fertilizers on sufficiently fertile soils can lead to undesirable consequences. Excessive growth of shoots will cause a long growing season, their wood will not ripen in a timely manner and the plant will be killed winter cold. This danger of reducing the winter hardiness of walnuts must be taken into account when applying fertilizers. IN.
Walnut cultivation and care
M. Rovsky (1970) emphasized the need to use fertilizers to increase walnut growth in nurseries only on insufficiently fertile soils (gray soils, etc.).
Fertilizing walnuts in orchards in order to enhance the fruiting of its trees is necessary and has been used for a long time. N.I. Kichunov mentioned this in our country in 1931.
A. A. Richter proposed for young walnut orchards in the Crimean region. in the first 10 years after planting, annually apply the following fertilizers on nutrient-depleted soils per 1 m2 of garden area, g: ammonium sulfate 60, ammonium nitrate 35, superphosphate 80, potassium salt 15. In the absence of mineral fertilizers, it should be applied at the same level area of 3-4 kg of manure, and with the joint application of mineral and organic fertilizers the norms of both are reduced by half. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, the rest in the fall, to a depth of 30 cm.
For the conditions of Moldova, P. P. Dorofeev advises applying fertilizers in walnut orchards growing on infertile soils in the following amount per 1 hectare of area, centners: ammonium sulfate 3, superphosphate 2 and potassium salt 1. In the absence of mineral fertilizers, you can apply semi-rotten manure in the amount of 30 t/ha.
In experiments on fertilizing fruit-bearing walnut trees in Gorny Bostandyk (Uzbekistan), 1.5 kg of ammonium nitrate was applied to each tree before the beginning of the growing season at the rate of 50 kg/ha of pure nitrogen, and in October - November 4 kg of superphosphate at the rate of 75-80 kg /ha phosphoric acid. Fertilizers were applied for 3 years - from 1964 to 1967. Already a year after the application of fertilizers, fruiting began to increase. Initially, the yield in fertilized areas exceeded the control by 4-5 times, and in 1967 even more than 10 times. Increased and average weight fruits under the influence of fertilizers (Butkov and Talipov, 1970).
Research has also shown that the addition of ammonium sulfate, as well as superphosphate and potassium salt, reduces the infestation of walnut fruits by the codling moth.
A. Thagushev (1970), in the Black Sea regions Krasnodar region It is necessary to apply complete mineral fertilizer at 1200 kg/ha a.m. to a fruit-bearing nut orchard. or 1 t/ha of manure and 60 kg/ha of a.v. N.P.K. The same amount of NPK is necessary in the conditions of the Kuban fruit zone.
According to A.K. Kairov, in Kabardino-Balkaria the main walnut fertilizer is applied during fall plowing. Manure is given once every 4 years at 20 t/ha. Superphosphate and potassium salt are applied annually, 5-8 and 1-1.5 c/ha, respectively. For fertilizing, ammonium nitrate is used at the rate of 1-1.5 c/ha during the second cultivation.
Walnut seedlings in nurseries need fertilizer. The use of nitrogen and phosphorus at 60 kg/ha increases the growth of seedlings and the yield of large-sized planting material, improves water regime.
In Bulgaria, when creating a walnut orchard with deep plowing (30-40 cm), they dig holes for trees every 12 m, measuring 0.6X0.6X0.6 m; with shallower plowing, the size of the holes is larger, 1X1X0.6 m. the top layer of soil and a mixture of 15 kg of well-rotted manure, 300 kg of superphosphate and 80 kg of potassium fertilizer is added to it based on an area of 0.1 hectares. In school nursery departments in Bulgaria, the soil is fertilized (20-30 t/ha of manure, 6 quintals of superphosphate and 2 quintals/ha of potassium fertilizer), hilled up at least 5 times, fertilized with ammonium nitrate 2 times a summer (50 kg each time) and regularly watered (Bonev, 1967).
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Classmates
Walnut grows well and bears fruit in our region. And it seems that there is no hassle with him. Unless you choose a suitable variety - large-fruited and thin-barked. But in order to keep the tree healthy for a long time (and a nut lives about 300 years!), it needs to be looked after.
Firstly, dry, damaged and thickening branches are cut out of an adult tree, and elongated shoots are shortened. But they don’t do this in the fall or spring, like fruit trees, and in the second half of summer.
At this time, the leaves of the nut are well developed and the roots are working intensively, which will help it quickly restore the loss of juice and heal the cuts.
Secondly, many people believe that the nut does not get sick and has no pests. Unfortunately, over the years it often happens that the fruits fall off ahead of time, and most of them are empty or rotten. The reason is plant diseases and pests.
Proper care of nuts
Most harmful diseases walnut - bacteriosis, brown spot.
Bacteriosis is the most common nut disease. There are practically no varieties resistant to this disease. The disease affects all above-ground organs of the tree: buds, leaves and their cuttings, male and female flowers, one- and two-year branches, shoot growth points, fruits at different stages of their development. On non-lignified shoots, as well as on leaves, due to the disease, elongated brown spots. In rainy weather, the shoots dry out and become distorted. The infection overwinters on the bark of diseased branches. In spring, it penetrates into the leaves through the stomata, and into other organs of the tree through mechanical damage. Large doses of nitrogen fertilizers in plantings enhance the development of the disease. Varieties with thin-skinned nuts are more vulnerable to the disease compared to thick-skinned ones.
Brown spot, or anthracnose, of walnuts affects leaves, shoots, and fruits. Numerous round or irregular spots appear on the leaves. This usually occurs in early or mid July. In the years since high humidity air, these spots grow very strongly, the leaves dry out prematurely and fall off. At first, small spots form on the shoots, sometimes ulcers form, and the shoot becomes bent. Damaged fruits remain underdeveloped. IN at a young age they fall off, in a later period they remain hanging, due to stains they have irregular shape. In damaged fruits, the skin of the kernel becomes dark.
Now, in the fall, measures to combat bacteriosis, anthracnose and the main pests of walnuts (walnut moths, aphids, mites, walnut moths) are the same: collecting and burning leaves, damaged fruit branches and residues.
Thirdly, like all fruit-bearing trees, walnuts need feeding. If recommended organic and mineral fertilizers, then the nut will be provided with the necessary substances for the next 3 - 5 years. Subsequently, organic (3 - 6 kg of rotted manure or humus), phosphorus (5-10 g) and potassium fertilizers (3 - 8 g) are applied (per 1 sq.m) once every 2 - 3 years in the fall, embedding them in soil (usually in grooves along the perimeter of the crown) to a depth of 10 - 20 cm. Nitrogen (10-15 g) - annually in the second half of April in the form of a solution or dry to a depth of 3-4 cm. For the growth, development and fruiting of the nut, and microelements (boron, manganese, magnesium, etc.). Especially if signs of their deficiency in the soil are noticeable - the death of ovaries, yellow spots on leaves, weakening of growth, etc. Doses are the same as for other fruit trees.
Walnut is the strongest tree of the Walnut family. He has a long life life cycle. The plant’s homeland is warm countries, but today it can be grown in the middle zone.
Walnut is an unpretentious, cold-resistant plant, so it is very often planted as a valuable fruit and ornamental crop.
The walnut has two sexes and is pollinated by wind. Male buds are located on the side branches and are collected in inflorescences. Their pollen spreads over a distance of 100 m or more. Buds with female flowers are based on the tips of one-year-old young shoots. Sleepers are on the central branch. If damaged aboveground part, they restore the plant.
Flowers of different sexes do not bloom at the same time on the same tree; to do this, you need to plant varieties in one area different types flowering to get a harvest. This is how cross-pollination occurs. If this is not possible, it is necessary to graft a cutting from a different variety to the crown of the tree.
Characteristics
Walnut loves warmth. There are many varieties of plants that can tolerate short-term drops in temperature, reaching -25 °C. If the temperature drops to –30 °C, one-year shoots freeze and become damaged.
The most dangerous are spring frosts. Even at the slightest drop in temperature, young shoots die. The walnut tree in the middle zone is being restored with the help of dormant buds.
Considering the plant's shortcomings, scientists have developed different varieties that can withstand winter and frost. They are:
- low-growing - 8 meters;
- dwarf - 5 meters.
The varieties “Ideal” and “Osipov” are persistent and fruitful. The first has a number of advantages:
- super early pregnancy;
- winter hardiness;
- The kernel tastes pleasant and sweetish, the shell is thin.
This variety is popular not only in Russia. New varieties of hybrids have emerged that contain the properties of “Ideal”.
Growing walnuts V Middle lane Russia is performed with additional manipulations. So, in winter they are covered with snow.
Seating methods
Walnuts are transplanted in several ways:
- seeds;
- grafting;
- using cuttings;
- layering.
A common way to grow nuts is by seeds. With this method, the plant receives 80% varietal characteristics. In this regard, the tree needs to be grafted. To grow the plant in central Russia, frost-resistant, high-yielding, large-fruited seeds are selected. They last no more than a year. At autumn planting Walnut seeds do not need to be dried; there is much more worry during spring sowing.
Growing vegetative way ensures receipt good nut. When grafting a tree, they use young branches that have large vegetative buds.
You can grow nuts in central Russia by bending the cuttings and covering them with additional snow. You can see how the process is carried out in the photo.
Planting seeds
Walnut planting in the middle zone is carried out in autumn and spring. Before spring planting it is necessary to inspect the material, selecting unsuitable specimens. The roots of the remaining seedlings are processed. How the process occurs is shown in the video.
The planting hole is prepared in the fall. It needs to be fertilized:
- humus;
- peat;
- superphosphate;
- potassium chloride;
- dolomite flour;
- wood ash.
Planting a plant with such fertilizer will provide it with necessary nutrition for 5 years. Autumn is more suitable for planting in the southern parts of the country.
Requirements for planting land
To achieve success in obtaining fruits, you need to know how to choose the right soil. Any soil is suitable for growing a tree. It should be:
- fertile;
- loose;
- drained.
Walnuts are planted on clay soil, where there is little acidity and groundwater is low. Areas of land that are heavily compacted and swampy are not suitable for growing the plant.
Don't forget about useful elements that the land should receive. With this care, the tree develops fully. Essential microelements are found in special fertilizers and green manures.
Judging by the reviews, in the middle zone it is impossible to do without fertilizing the soil.
Care
Walnuts growing in Russia need proper care. It includes the following points:
- Trimming. The procedure is performed in two stages. The first one is in the spring. The end of March is more suitable for the northern strip of Russia. The second stage is in the fall.
- Watering. He is needed young tree, whose roots have not yet reached groundwater.
- Whitewash. “Wounds” on the trunk are treated copper sulfate. Whitewashing is done with garden lime in the spring.
Based on reviews, meticulous care increases the effectiveness of fruiting.
The main danger for growing walnuts is spring frosts. Therefore, you need to choose early ripening varieties.
To avoid disappointment and not harm your garden, it is important to know how to plant walnuts correctly. This tree is a long-liver, so you need to think about whether there is a suitable place for it on the site, and take into account all the nuances in its development. A careful approach to this issue is the key great harvest in a few years.
Features of walnut
Walnut is a tall tree. If in the garden it is carried out proper care, it can stretch up to 20 meters in height. Its crown is spreading, up to 15 meters in diameter, the branches diverge from the trunk at right angles.
The root system of the walnut is powerful. The first 3 years the main root grows. It is rod-shaped and penetrates deep into the soil. At 4-5 years, lateral roots begin to develop, which rush in all directions and diverge at a distance of 5-6 meters from the main root. They are located shallowly, 30-50 cm from the soil surface. In hundred-year-old trees, the roots occupy a space with a diameter of about 20 meters. Developed root system allows the mature tree to be easily moved insufficient watering and little precipitation.
If you cut down a walnut and leave the stump, a lot of shoots will begin to grow from it, which will begin to bear fruit in 2-3 years. If it is necessary to get rid of the old stump, it will have to be uprooted. The shoots do not grow from the roots.
Flowering begins in spring, in early or mid-May. Flowers and leaves bloom at the same time. Maybe re-blooming in June, most often this happens in the southern or middle zone. appear on the nut male flowers, collected in earrings of several pieces, and female ones - at the ends of annual shoots. They are pollinated by the wind.
Nuts are ready for harvest in September or October; fruits from the same tree may differ in taste and size.
Propagated by seeds or grafted seedlings.
Rules for planting a walnut tree in the garden
When planning to grow a walnut tree in the garden, you need to consider the following.
- Due to the developed root system and spreading crown, plants should be planted at a distance of 5-6 meters from each other.
- A walnut, having reached 20 years of age, takes from the soil nutrients and moisture, and its crown provides dense shade. When choosing a place for seedlings, you must take into account that it will be impossible to grow anything within a radius of 10 meters from the nut.
- You cannot grow a walnut tree near your home. Its roots can destroy the foundation.
- During the process of photosynthesis, nuts release substances that inhibit others. fruit trees. It will be correct if you leave at least 10 meters between them when planting.
- The place should be sunny; in the shade the plant lags in growth and dies.
- Walnut prefers loose, well-drained soil.
- Does not tolerate areas with high level groundwater, as well as flooded during floods and rain.
It is best to grow a walnut tree at the far end of the garden. In a spacious area, it will be able to fully develop and will not interfere with other plants. In a small garden, planting walnuts is undesirable.
Requirements for climatic conditions
Walnut is a heat-loving plant. Efficient cultivation perhaps in the southern regions.
In the middle zone, the tree takes root well and bears fruit, but only if the winter temperature does not fall below -25°. In severe frosts the tree dies.
IN Leningrad region walnuts do not grow in the form of a tree. Doesn't bear fruit regularly. If some of the branches freeze in winter, there will be no nuts in the fall.
Adult plants can easily tolerate summer heat thanks to their developed root system. Young trees up to 5 years old require watering 2-3 times a month, more often during drought.
Propagation by seeds
Growing from seeds will be successful if nuts collected last year are used. This method has a number of disadvantages:
- The nut grows slowly and can only be planted in a permanent place after 5-7 years;
- 10 years after seed germination, the first harvest appears, but it is meager;
- full fruiting begins only at 20-30 years of age.
If the seeds are planned to be germinated in the spring, they must undergo stratification. The nuts are buried in a container with moist soil or sand and placed in a cold place where the temperature is kept at 4-6°. The soil and sand must be heated in the oven or disinfected with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
It is correct if the nuts are sorted first. Thick-walled ones are sent for stratification 3 months before planting, and those with thin shells - 2 months before. Seed care during stratification consists of keeping the sand moist and controlling the temperature.
It is recommended to take seeds from trees growing in the same area where you plan to plant the new plant. If this is not possible, then you should buy them from trusted sellers. Only last year's nuts high quality have good germination.
Planted in the ground in April. It is important that the soil warms up to 10°. The bed must be prepared in advance.
Planting depth is from 5 to 8 cm, depending on the size of the seeds. The distance between the nuts is 30 cm. Correctly position the nut sideways, with the longitudinal groove down. They hatch quickly, within 5-10 days. The seedlings grow vigorously at first, but when they reach 15 cm, growth slows down. A stem begins to form.
You can accelerate the growth of seedlings if you sow the seeds in a greenhouse. The period for preparing seedlings is reduced by three times.
Caring for seedlings and open ground, and in the greenhouse is simple: watering, weeding, loosening. You can make maintenance easier by mulching; it reduces the frequency of watering and prevents weeds from growing.
Graft
You can speed up the fruiting of trees grown from nuts by grafting. To carry out this procedure correctly, you need to wait until the age of the seedlings (rootstock) reaches 2 or 3 years.
The best time for vaccination is February, when sap flow has not yet begun. The scion must be taken from a nursery in your region, from a mother plant adapted to the climate. Graft into the cleft.
Grafted seedlings can be planted in a permanent place in the second year after grafting.
Planting seedlings
The time for planting a seedling in a permanent place depends on the region.
In the southern lane best period- autumn. The nut will have time to take root before winter without wasting energy on growing green mass. In autumn, its care is minimal - there is no sweltering heat, the soil is moist, no weeding or loosening is required.
If you plant a nut in the south in the spring, it will not have time to grow stronger and will die from the summer heat. To preserve such a seedling in the summer, a lot of effort will have to be spent on additional care, which consists of constant watering with warm water.
In the middle zone, seedlings are planted only in the spring, so that by autumn they take root and become stronger.
The pits should be 50x50 cm in size and the same depth. Fill them with fertile soil, add humus and wood ash.
A peg is driven into the center of the hole for support. In the first three years, the central tap root develops, and there are very few lateral roots that support the tree in the soil. A seedling without support may be damaged by the wind.
The plant is deepened into the soil so that the root collar is at ground level.
Further care
Good care is needed in the first three years after planting in a permanent place. Fertilizing is carried out twice: in the fall, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied, and in spring period Nitrogen is needed to grow the above-ground part. The soil should be moist, but not wet. The soil should dry out slightly between waterings.
When the tree reaches the age when fruiting begins, nitrogen fertilizers are reduced or applied once every three years. Water only during dry periods.
Remove branches that are bent down, crossed or pointing inward.
Walnut is almost not susceptible to diseases and pest attacks.
Conclusion
Walnut is an easy-to-care tree that, once it reaches 4-5 years, requires almost no special attention.
You can speed up the harvest if you plant seedlings purchased from a nursery or grafted yourself. To get fruits from a tree grown from seeds, you will have to be patient and wait at least 10 years.
Walnut is a favorite large garden, which looks beautiful as a single plant. It will also grow in a small garden, but will destroy all the trees and shrubs growing next to it.