Planting winter garlic in the fall - timing, rules and recommendations. Garlic in the Urals is a culture worthy of attention

Garlic is a frequent guest summer cottages. Him in mandatory Almost all garden lovers try to plant. It takes up little space and is very useful. If you don’t know when to plant garlic before winter, then our article will help you figure out this important issue. You will learn how to properly prepare planting material, soil for planting and, most importantly, what is the best time to plant garlic.

• How to plant garlic before winter
  • Selecting soil for planting
  • Planting material
  • Planting garlic
• The best varieties of winter garlic

When to plant garlic in autumn 2017

For planting garlic in the fall great importance has planting time, soil condition, correct application fertilizers, water availability and variety selection. To plant garlic, choose places where early harvested melons, legumes, potatoes, and cucumbers grew. The place should be sunny.

Best time to land in middle lane– mid-September, in the south – from the beginning of October. If planted earlier than this time, the cloves will release greenery and the roots will be weakened. If planted later, the garlic will not have time to take root before frost and will not survive the winter well.

If you believe lunar calendar, then the most favorable days for planting garlic - September 26, 27 and 30, as well as October 1, 4, 5, 11 and 12.

How to plant garlic before winter

Selecting soil for planting

Garlic loves flat surface, which is not flooded by spring floods. The place for planting garlic is prepared at least 10-15 days before planting. It is better to orient the beds from north to south. The soil at the planned planting site is dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet (20-30 cm), all stones and weeds are removed.

After digging, the area must be harrowed and well leveled. Then you need to apply fertilizer. Humus, manure or compost aged for two years are best suited.

Fertilizer consumption is one 10-liter bucket per 2 square meters.

Just before planting, the soil is well loosened, watered and grooves are made, at the bottom of which ash and sand are poured so that the bottom does not rot.

Additionally, depending on the soil type:

• If the soil is very heavy, clayey, dense and both melt and irrigation water stagnate on it for a long time, then it needs to be brought back to normal as quickly as possible. This should be done at least a month before planting garlic; this work is physically difficult and without the possibility of using technology, although it all depends on the size of the future bed with garlic. In order to make the soil loose, it is necessary to add square meter soil for deep digging with a shovel full of peat and river sand.
• If, on the contrary, the soil on your site is excessively loose, that is, sandy, then you need to compact it by adding clay and humus. Before applying, the clay must be dried very well, then crushed literally into the smallest parts to a powder state, and only after that, in combination with sand, can it be applied to the soil. Usually, per square meter for digging you need a bucket of both (that is, sand and clay).
• Holders peat soils, which are often acidic, in addition to adding 250 g of lime per square meter, we also recommend adding a bucket of sand, always river sand, and clay prepared according to the method described above. All this is introduced under the mandatory digging of the soil.

Planting material

For planting, the largest cloves that are free from stains, mold, signs of rot and damage are selected. If at least one clove of a garlic head has traces of rot and stains, then all the cloves of this head are considered unsuitable for planting.

All cloves intended for planting must be “dressed,” that is, have an outer shell that must be intact and without damage.

Planting garlic

Garlic is planted to a depth of two cloves, that is, the distance from the upper tip of the clove to the surface of the ground should be 3-5 cm, depending on the size of what is planted. The furrows are watered abundantly before planting. Small cloves are planted at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other, large ones - 10-15 cm.

The distance between rows must be at least 20 cm - for better lighting, and ease of fertilization. Under no circumstances should you press the cloves into the ground - when sprouting, the roots will push the bulb upward, it will freeze in the winter, and the result will be small, diseased heads of garlic with big amount teeth

After planting, the soil is leveled again, mulched with peat, sawdust, or spruce branches are laid on top. If the autumn is dry, then the garlic needs to be watered once every 5 days.

Very good harvest There will be garlic if there is a lot of snow on the garden bed in winter. Therefore, if you small areas planting garlic, but there is little snow above them, it’s worth throwing it up.

Garlic can be grown in one place for no more than two years. After this period, the cloves become smaller, their number in the head increases, and the garlic itself becomes weak, susceptible to fungal diseases and frost. After two years, repeat everything you did again, but in a different place.

How can you tell if garlic is winter?

First, the gardener must decide what kind of garlic he wants to grow. The fact is that this culture is divided into several types:

• spring garlic;
• winter garlic.

These species differ from each other in appearance by the number and shape of teeth.

The cloves of winter garlic are large and equal in size. They are evenly distributed around the base in one row.

Varieties of winter garlic produce flower shoots that form bulbs.

Winter garlic is dug up early and used for summer consumption or for harvesting. For longer storage, varieties of spring garlic are grown. This article will focus on growing winter garlic.

The best varieties of winter garlic

All varieties of winter garlic are divided into those that produce arrows and those that do not produce arrows. But mostly winter garlic is bolting. A bulb of this type of garlic contains no more than 12 large cloves.

All varieties of large winter garlic, as well as spring garlic, are zoned. As an example, to the best varieties winter shoots of garlic include Gribovsky, Dubkovsky, Lyubasha and others.

Winter bolters also include excellent garlic Gulliver varieties - heads weighing up to 150 grams, having 6-8 large cloves arranged radially.

Less common are non-shooting varieties of winter garlic. In the bulb they have many small cloves arranged in a spiral.

The best examples of non-shooting winter varieties of garlic are the Novosibirsky, Shirokolistny 220 and other local varieties.

Video: When to plant winter garlic in 2017 in the Moscow region

Secrets of successful planting of winter garlic

You need to prepare the soil before planting garlic 10-15 days in advance, that is, if we plan to plant it at the end of September, then at the beginning of the month it is quite possible to start preparing the soil.

Is it necessary to treat garlic cloves before planting? It is carried out rarely, you can soak it for an hour or two in a solution of potassium permanganate light color, but usually success in cultivation lies precisely in further agricultural technology.

On any soil, even the most loose, the maximum depth for a garlic clove is six centimeters, and for bulbs – five centimeters.

You cannot “stick” the garlic cloves too much; they must be carefully “placed” into the soil, for which the soil must first be brought to a loose state.

On planted beds after planting, it is enough to sprinkle upper layer stove ash, 200 g per square meter.

Watering garlic after planting is not necessary; usually there is enough rain, but if none falls in a month, then you can water it once, using a bucket per square meter.

After the onset of frost, while there is no snow, the garlic can be covered with a layer of 15-25 cm of leaf litter, and a non-woven covering material can be spread over it. Or don’t use the leaves at all, making do with only the material.

In the north, winter garlic is protected - it is covered with straw manure, and horse manure, mixing manure and sawdust in equal parts. You can also cover it with humus in a layer of 18-20 cm. The main thing is to remove this cover as quickly and carefully as possible in the spring so that the soil warms up more actively and does not damage the seedlings.

A month after the snow melts, you can loosen the soil, trying to go 1.5-2 cm deep.

Garlic is a crop that is universally loved by gardeners and agricultural technicians all over the world. And it would be strange if this valuable vegetable were not loved and grown in the Urals. But in order for garlic to please the owners with its harvest, you need to know the rules of agricultural technology for growing it and when to plant it, how to care for it and store it.

Spring garlic lasts longer and has a less pungent taste.

What to choose winter or spring

Winter garlic is best planted in the ground in late October - early November. Garlic cloves take root well, and at the end of July they produce bountiful harvest large and strong bulbs. When planting in autumn, the growing season is shorter. Bulbs grow bigger size. For the winter, you can plant not only cloves, but also aerial bulbs.

Spring garlic is stored longer and has a less pungent taste. But what type of garlic to choose and plant in your garden is up to you.

Soil preparation

3-4 weeks before planting, it is necessary to prepare the bed.

• Dig up the soil to a depth of 25-30 cm. Carefully remove the rhizomes of other plants found in the soil.
• Add per 1 sq. meter ten-liter bucket of rotted manure. Dig up the bed with manure.
• For 1 sq. meter add a ten-liter bucket sawdust, 1 liter of wood ash, 120 g of superphosphate, 1 liter of dry bird droppings, 1 liter of fluff lime. Loosen the soil with a rake.
• Form a bed and leave it until it is time to plant garlic for the winter.

Landing Features

Ural special place and the climate here is also special, it’s hot in summer, frosty in winter, so when you plant garlic in the ground, you should strictly adhere to planting dates and take into account the peculiarities of the Ural climate and remember that garlic brings excellent harvest on structural soils. On acidic soils It grows difficult, gets sick, the bulbs are small. In this case, it is necessary to deoxidize the soil. For 1 sq. Add 10-15 kg of slaked lime per meter of vegetable bed. This measure will not only allow you to get a rich harvest, but will also ensure long-term storage.

Planting should not be delayed, since in dry and well-warmed soil the above-ground green part of the plant forms and develops well, into which everything will go nutrients, A root system will be weak. The vegetable will lack nutrition, the yield and its quality will decrease.

On personal plots Winter varieties are most often grown, as they are more productive and less susceptible to diseases and pests. However, over time, the plants grow old and begin to get sick, and the size of the bulbs decreases. To maintain and increase productivity, bulb sowing is used (garlic does not produce real seeds in our conditions). The shape of the aerial bulbs, their number, and color depend on the variety. The bulbs are small and a large number of(up to 450 in inflorescence), in varieties with large and tall peduncles. The bulbs are large (up to 30 pieces in an inflorescence), rounded or flat-rounded in varieties with low shoots.

Upon landing southern varieties weakened arrows with 3-7 large elongated bulbs may form. The size of the bulbs is not related to the size of the bulbs. Small-bulb varieties may have a very large bulb, while large-bulb varieties may have a medium-sized bulb.

You shouldn’t delay planting garlic.

Planting winter garlic cloves

This method allows you to get full-fledged bulbs as early as July. next year. When planted with aerial bulbs, the harvest is obtained in two years. When planting with teeth, a significant part of the plant is spent on planting. harvested, there is a possibility of plantings being affected by diseases (bacteriosis, rot, etc.). Winters in the Urals are harsh and there is a high probability of freezing. In this case, the seedlings will be uneven, the leaves on the remaining plants will begin to turn yellow early and part of the harvest will be lost during storage. The infection will spread to healthy teeth.

Planting with aerial bulbs is a longer process, but diseases are not transmitted to each other and it is quite easy to obtain healthy material. Basic rules when planting with cloves:

1. Choose to board healthy bulbs, having large denticles, the formation of the same large and large denticles is inherent in them at the genetic level. Do not use internal teeth. Plant winter garlic 3-4 weeks before the onset of sustained frost. In the Middle Urals this is the period from the third ten days of September to the second ten days of October. In the Southern Urals, the optimal time for planting this crop is from October 5 to October 10.
2. Renew garlic regularly (once every 4-6 years). You can update it by purchasing certified raw materials from fruit and vegetable farms. You can renew it yourself by growing it from air bulbs. Do not remove a few flower shoots from the garlic. Collect aerial bulbs, dry them and sow them in the ground in early March. In July, heads (single-toothed) will form from them. In October, plant the one-toothed trees in the ground so that you can collect them in July next year. full harvest renewed garlic.
3. When planting, rows of garlic should be spaced 30-35 cm apart.
4. You can determine the maturity and readiness of garlic by the flower stalks, so leave 2-3 arrows on the beds, destroy the rest at the very beginning. Once the seed pods begin to open, the garlic is ready for harvesting.
5. The depth of planting garlic is 13-18 cm. At this depth of soil, the most favorable conditions for rooting and formation of bulbs.
6. Do not forget about mulch (straw, sawdust or other organic materials). In spring, add a new layer of mulch to one layer. A layer of mulch will prevent the soil from freezing and the garlic will not freeze, and moisture will be retained in the soil to nourish it.
7. Check the quality of the soil in which you plan to plant garlic. It loves fertile, moist but not wet soil and sunny areas.
8. Don't forget to feed your garlic mineral fertilizers. Apply a fresh layer of mulch regularly between rows. In case of early wilting or when the garlic leaves begin to turn yellow at the end of May or early summer, feed it with bio-infusion at the rate of 1 part of the infusion and 3 liters of water.
9. Garlic and strawberries go well together. If there is not enough space for summer cottage, plant garlic between strawberry bushes.

Planting with aerial bulbs is a longer process, but diseases are not transmitted to each other

Planting with aerial bulbs

1. All formed and mature bulbs can be planted in the ground. They ripen on flower shoots left on the largest and strong plants. At the beginning of growth, the arrows are curled like a spiral and straighten as they grow.
2. After the arrows straighten and the bulbs are formed and the cover on them bursts, collect them in small bouquets and hang them to dry for 2-3 weeks. After the stem dries, separate the bulbs from the stem, being careful not to damage their covers.
3. You can plant bulbs in the spring, or you can plant them in the fall; each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is not always possible to keep the bulbs in perfect condition for spring planting, many of them have time to dry before spring. Therefore, when planting for the winter, favorable conditions are created in the soil for rooting and germination of bulbs in the spring.
4. Before planting, small bulbs are soaked in water for 24 hours, changing the water 3-4 times. Unripe onions will float and should be thrown away.
5. It is recommended to plant bulbs in the ground at a distance of 3-5 cm from each other in a row, to a depth of 2-3 cm and a distance between rows of 15-20 cm.
6. Just like cloves planted for the winter, beds with bulblets are mulched with a layer of humus, covered, if necessary, with film or any other covering material and additionally covered on top spruce branches. Mulching helps protect plantings from freezing over the winter. Without taking these protective measures, bulblets planted for the winter freeze almost completely in the climatic conditions of the Urals.

Plantings of spring garlic are increasingly expanding their borders and have moved from the Central part to the Urals, where they have deservedly received place of honor in every garden, since it lasts longer, has more cloves, and ripens faster. But as seed material you have to use bulbs that are obtained from winter varieties of garlic.

Planting spring garlic bulbs

Some gardeners recommend growing garlic in the Urals in two layers. Make a hole in the soil to a depth of 20 cm, plant a clove of garlic there, sprinkle with humus and plant another clove at a depth of 10 cm. In the same place you can get two full heads of garlic; they will develop normally, since they are located at different depths. This planting allows you to get from 1 sq. meter the yield is twice as large.

For information

Spring garlic consists of several rows of cloves (2-3). The denticles are 2-3 mm in diameter and covered with internal glossy scales. Spring vegetable heads can be stored for up to one and a half years. The winter variety has 5-8 large cloves arranged in one row around the main stem.

Winter garlic bolts, releasing a flower arrow in June and differs from spring garlic in a richer and more diverse set of useful substances.

Bioinfusion for feeding garlic

Preparation: pour 1 kg of nettle with 20 liters of water and after 4-5 days the nutritional infusion is ready. Dilute the infusion in a ratio of 1:3 and feed the plants. This fertilizer strengthens plants and improves soil structure.

Ripening time for garlic in the Urals

Due to the climate, winter garlic in the Urals ripens at the end of July, and the ripening period for spring garlic is late August - early September. To determine the size of the bulbs, it is important what the weather will be in summer period: If summer season arid, the bulbs and cloves will be small. When rainy summer there is a high probability that the vegetable will rot.

The growing season of winter garlic is 100-110 days from the moment the first sprouts appear in the beds, spring garlic - 115-135 days.

Except general rules, you should know the characteristics of the variety and their application in relation to a specific area. The Alcor variety has a growing season of 94 days, it is resistant to fungal diseases and is not susceptible to the yellow dwarf virus.

Another variety of winter garlic, “Novosibirsky,” grows and bears fruit well in the Ural climate; its growing season is only 85 days.

Garlic variety "Novosibirsk" grows well and bears fruit

But you should not rely entirely on book information, these are average data. It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the plantings and take timely measures, if necessary: ​​fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, combating suspected disease.

Garlic maturity

1. 15-20 weeks before harvesting, you should stop watering the garlic to protect the heads from damage by fungal diseases and rot. Remove flower arrows and tie aboveground part garlic per knot. This helps to increase the mass of the bulb by directing all the nutrients for its formation.
2. Gently rake the soil around the bulb head. The husk should be dense and peel off well.
3. The neck of the false garlic stalk should be soft, the stem and leaves should be yellow.
4. The cover of the air bulbs should be cracked.

Winter garlic suitable for growing in the Urals

Among hybrid varieties Garlic grown in the Urals should be given special attention:

Skif - mid-season winter variety. Scales with purple veins. The bulbs are small and strong. The pulp is sharp in taste and dense. Increased resistance to bacteriosis and white rot.

Bashkirsky 85 is a winter variety with a short growing season (85-90 days). Bulbs with white husk. The bulbs are bright purple. The variety is resistant to blight, bacterial rot, onion fly.

Gradekovsky - winter, early. The growing season is 81-86 days. The bulbs are small, 5-6 cloves, with white-lilac husks. The pulp is dense, with a sharp pungent taste and a lilac tint. The bulbs are dark lilac in color and oval in shape.

Sofievsky - high-yielding and frost-resistant. The pulp is dense with a medium pungent taste. Scales white with purple tint. Resistant to fungal diseases. Requires direct access to sunlight.

Garlic variety Sofievsky - high-yielding and frost-resistant

Dobrynya is a mid-season variety. Responsive to timely watering and weeding. Stores well and is resistant to fungal diseases. In the climatic conditions of the Urals it is stored without loss of external and quality characteristics within six months.

Lyubasha is a winter variety that is resistant to drought and frost. Can be stored (9-10 months) without loss of taste.

Harvesting

When growing garlic in the Urals, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the chosen variety, follow the rules, deadlines planting, care, watering, weeding, climatic conditions. Taking into account all the nuances, you can get good yield of garlic per hundred square meters in the Ural climate.

Both spring and winter garlic, if harvested later due date, will be stored worse. Its safety and shelf life depend on timely cleaning.

Rules for removing bulbs from the ground

1. Cleaning should be carried out in dry weather, better evening or in the morning, when there is no scorching sun, and when the bag containing the bulbs begins to burst on the left flower arrows.
2. Carefully pry up the garlic heads with a pitchfork so as not to damage the peel and cause disease on the bulbs.
3. Place the bulbs dug out of the ground in a sunny place and dry well (4-5 days).
4. Carefully clean the bulbs of dirt and stuck soil. Tie into bundles, being careful not to damage the roots, and leave for further storage.

Some recommend rinsing freshly dug garlic from the soil in cool water. Let it drain and hang them up to dry. After this, cut off the roots and stems. Leave the garlic hanging for another 7-10 days for further drying.

Single cloves grown from bulbs are harvested when the leaves turn yellow, later than the harvest obtained from cloves (mid-August). You cannot be late with harvesting, as then the one-toothed plants will begin to take root again and will be difficult to find in the soil.

Single-toothed ones are selected by hand so as not to damage the fragile planting material, then dried in the sun for 2-4 days, then dried in a well-ventilated area, tied in bunches or laid out on a wire rack.

After the garlic dries, you need to cut off the roots and stems.

At the end of September, single cloves are planted in the ground and excellent large bulbs of aromatic garlic are collected in July.

How to store garlic

The roots of a plant dried in the sun are cut off, leaving 1-2 cm. The stem is shortened to 10-12 cm. Bunches of 8-15 pieces are formed from the dried vegetable, depending on the size of the bulbs, or braided. The larger the onion, the longer it will retain its beneficial properties.

When the bulbs are well dried in a suspended state, place them in a cool place, basement or refrigerator and store at temperature (0-5 degrees). With this storage method, the air humidity in the room is important; if it is more than 70%, the bulbs will rot.

Vegetables are also stored in wooden boxes with perforations in the side walls.

1. Make or pick wooden box(possible by parcel), which will suit you in size.
2. Drill holes in the side walls.
3. Sprinkle a layer of salt (2-3 cm) on the bottom and place a layer of garlic heads.
4. Alternate layers of salt and onions.
5. Alternative for salt: wood ash or sawdust.

You can store garlic bulbs in linen or paper bags, in a suspended state, ensuring permission fresh air and room temperature 1-5 degrees Celsius.

Garlic heads left for storage should be periodically checked by removing damaged by diseases and shriveled. It must be remembered that temperature fluctuations have a negative impact on the safety of the crop and its timing.

Folk signs and planting garlic in the Urals

The people of Rus' have always been distinguished by their special observation and wisdom. Our ancestors have long noticed that winter garlic is planted:

1. When birds gather in flocks and fly away to distant lands.
2. When your hands get cold outside and put on mittens.
3. By damp earth It's impossible to walk barefoot: it's cold.
4. Winter garlic is planted before the onset of Intercession (October 14). On this day, autumn and winter meet.

Good day everyone!

On my agenda today important question for gardeners and amateur gardeners. Tell me, have you already prepared the garlic for winter, I mean planted it in the ground in the fall, so that you can harvest it in the summer?

Let's figure out when and how to do this work correctly. What do you need to know and be able to do so that your favorite aromatic and piquant vegetable will please us with a large harvest, because almost nothing, or, for example, a real tasty rich vegetable, will be possible without it?

IN folk medicine it is used very often and is also a repellent for many soil inhabitants.

And the benefit of this vegetable crop I think that I will not write in this note, because it seems to me that its benefits for all of us are obvious, and we know how? and where it can be used. Well, for those who are already unbearably interested, you can always find any information on the Internet.

How and when to plant winter garlic cloves correctly?

This type of garlic should be planted in the ground in October, namely, if you look at the Lunar calendar, the dates there are October 15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25,26,27, 2019 .

You can also plant in November, but this is for individual regions where it's warm.

Interesting! If you look at the calendar, you can see the following information for 2019; planting cannot be done on the following days of autumn: from October 1-15. For 2019, winter garlic should be planted on September 15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25,26,27, or 15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22 ,23,24,25,26,27 October. For those who did not have time and for warm regions of Russia, you can plant on such days in November 13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25, as well as December: 15-21, 23,27,28.

In general, it is worth understanding that the main rule for planting garlic is to plant it before the arrival of cold weather and frosts. The approximate limit is that they will occur in 30 to 45 days. In other words, if the temperature outside is +10 +12 for two weeks, then you should plant this crop in the soil, because stable cold weather will soon come.

Important! Planting times will depend on what region you live in. Generally speaking, for all territories of Russia, this is no earlier than mid-September, but no later than the first ten days of December.

Remember that if you plant garlic in the primer early, it will sprout, and this is an early death... And if you plant it very late, it will not take root and will freeze, and nothing good will come of it either.

Important! Remember that garlic should be planted where annual vegetables such as cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, and zucchini grew. Under no circumstances should you plant where root crops grew. Therefore, never plant garlic in a place where it grew onion, garlic, potatoes, and tomatoes. This contributes to the spread of diseases, such as nematodes.

It is recommended to change the place of residence of the garlic every two years. There are also some tricks and nuances that absolutely everyone should know about. I strongly recommend watching this video, everything is very detailed in it, but at the same time everything is shown and explained compactly:

One more note and condition, for garlic to produce a good harvest, it must be planted at the correct phases of the moon. As usual, on the full moon and new moon there are no gardening work cannot be produced. And also on the waxing Moon.

Stages of planting garlic:

1. Prepare the soil for planting in advance, go over it with a cultivator or a regular shovel. You also need to take planting material; personally, I never process it.

2. As for garlic, I have it Belarusian variety, as shown in this photo, it is white with a purple tint.

Important! The larger the planting material, the larger the harvest will be. Ha, logical))).

Use the largest cloves, but periodically renew the garlic from the bulbs. It is preferable to use your own garlic rather than buy it in stores or supermarkets; then it’s better to buy it from your grandmother at the market, where at least it’s homemade.

Break the garlic into cloves, and remember that this must be done immediately before planting.

Plant enough garlic so that you have enough for food, preparation and planting.

3. So, start planting. There are a lot various options this activity.

Interesting! You can use various special patterns and the like; there is now a lot of know-how in our gardening market.

I always prefer to do it easily and quickly, without any hassles. The way I do this, you will need two tools - a rake and a shovel.

Using a rake, or rather its handle, make a ruler like this so that it is even. And use a scoop to make indentations, turn the scoop over and use a handle to make holes in the ground. My bed is not very large, so I plant in three furrows; you can do more at your discretion.

Important! The distance between the holes is 10-15 cm, do it by eye. And the depth of planting garlic is approximately 6-8 cm; you can make a mark on the handle of the scoop.

You can go with another option, take a board and make notches on it for convenience, and you can make indentations with an ordinary peg.

4. Divide the head of garlic into cloves and prepare for work. I hope that you know where the tops and roots of garlic are. If you forgot, be sure to look at this picture, because you definitely need to plant with the roots in the ground.

5. In our case, place one clove of garlic vertically in the depression you made, and do not press it in under any circumstances, but simply carefully place it and cover it with earth. No need to water.

Important! To prevent the clove from rotting from heavy autumn rains, after you place it in the ground, you need to add 1 teaspoon of sand into the hole; the sand will do the drainage work.

Interesting! For beginner gardeners, you can make indentations around the entire perimeter, and then, in order not to lose where you planted and where not, stick garlic.

6. When all the cloves have been planted, sprinkle them thoroughly with soil again using a rake.

7. And of course compact it, also with a rake.

This is how easy, quick and simple it is to do this job!

How to plant garlic bulbs before winter so that it grows large?

But as for garlic with bulbs and not cloves, this type can be planted in April. This type of garlic is called spring, not winter.

Remember that if you plant bulbs, they will bear a real harvest only after a year. In the first year, only a clove will grow from one bulb, and already in the second year, a whole head will grow from this clove.

The bulbs still sound cool, such small and funny things))).

I suggest watching the video and learning how to plant garlic this way correctly:

Planting garlic in the fall before winter for different regions of Russia

As I said earlier, approximate dates for sowing garlic have been determined for each region. Let's sort it out in order.

Planting garlic before winter for residents of the Moscow region according to the Lunar calendar 2019

It is recommended to plant this crop on October 25-30. But there is an opinion that the best time for this area is before the Day of the Intercession, which is October 14th. According to signs, it is believed that garlic planted during this period will give a very large harvest.

Among the varieties especially loved by gardeners in this region are: Spas, Yubileiny 07, Yubileiny Gribovsky, Messidor, Kharkovsky, etc.

Planting garlic in autumn before winter in Siberia

Most best time landings for Siberian residents occur in the second mid-September, namely, to be more precise, in the period of September 23-30.

Separately, I would like to note for the Altai Territory, since I live here myself, these terms are correct.

Proper planting of garlic before winter in the Urals

For the population of the Urals, planting falls on October 16,20,21,22,23, if this is the Southern Urals, if it is the Middle Urals, then October 25,26,27,28,29,30.

This is such a useful article, I hope that now you clearly understand and remember how and when to plant garlic. Wish you big harvest next year, and of course always a good and positive mood. See you all, bye!

P.S. I completely forgot, I would like to remind you that with the onset of cold weather come the symptoms of acute respiratory viral infections and acute respiratory infections, you can fight them with the help of garlic, by hanging beads made from balloons with a surprise around your neck at home, and especially for children, and breathing in this aroma.

Sincerely, Ekaterina Mantsurova

Planting garlic before winter is a responsible undertaking; here you need to choose the right planting material, correctly determine the timing of planting, know the subtleties and rules, nuances and features. Let me start with these nuances.

Bulbs or cloves?

Few people know (maybe many), but I personally learned about this only about 15 years ago, that garlic as a crop has two different shapes: one is called non-shooting, the second is shooting, which in our Tambov region has always been called simply “winter”. What is an arrow? The simplest thing is an ordinary peduncle. The arrow is formed only by winter garlic, that is, the one we sow in the autumn.

In winter garlic, as we understand, which produces shoots, at the very end of the burning summer, bulbs begin to ripen on the peduncle, these are aerial bulbs, and in each inflorescence there can be a hundred pieces or even more.

It is also permissible to use these same bulbs for planting in the fall, but next season you will not get a full head of garlic cloves. From the bulb only a rather small onion will grow, weighing only 4-7 g, which we call one-toothed and is very quickly sold on the market for planting in the fall. The single clove will turn into a full-fledged head of garlic next summer. By the way, sometimes it’s quite large and has teeth in it.

Everything would be fine, but there are exceptions: there are also bulbs different sizes, and when you sow very small ones, then the next season the onions will not be very large. A high-quality harvest of large-sized garlic bulbs, cloved and ready for long-term storage, you can only get it after another season, that is, in the third year. Due to the rather slow development of garlic, when propagated in this way, sowing with bulbs is practiced in home plots only sometimes as an experiment or, more often, to preserve all the cultural characteristics of a certain variety of garlic.

Wintergreen - planting full garlic cloves before winter

Planting full cloves of garlic before winter, its popularity cannot be compared with sowing bulbs. By the way, what is a clove? A clove is, in essence, a daughter bulb that has a well-developed, active, living rudimentary bud. And if there are a lot of such cloves of garlic (don’t think that there are at least three, maybe one, and a maximum of as many as seven pieces), which are arranged on a common bottom and carefully wrapped in covering scales, then this is already an onion, and a complex one at that.

From large - large

It is believed that the larger (larger) the planting material itself, the greater the harvest. That is, if we plant a hefty clove of garlic in the soil, then in the spring we are simply obliged to get a large onion with the maximum number of large cloves. If you plant a small clove, then the garlic bulb will be medium in size, best case scenario- with small or even one clove inside.

Aerated garlic bulbs - bulbs. © Lucy Martin

There's no point in regret

Beginners who have not grown garlic before usually take the largest cloves for food or storage, and plant the smaller ones on the plot. As a result, every year they have less and less harvests, although they remove the arrows on time (an important procedure, by the way: the arrows take up a lot of nutrition), but this technique does not help. If you don’t want to reduce your garlic yields to values ​​close to zero, then for planting, try to divide the large cloves equally - half for food, and half for the harvest, and, naturally, use single cloves for planting.

Once every two or three years, I would advise reviving garlic in a separate small bed, that is, growing it from bulbs; this will not cause harm, only benefit.

When to plant garlic before winter?

Let's move on to the deadlines, this is important, but in many ways the deadlines also depend on climatic conditions. If we talk about the center of Russia, the optimal period for this is, of course, the very beginning of October. If we're talking about In the south, it is better to plant garlic no earlier than the end of October or, even better, no earlier than the beginning of October, in order to be completely safe. And if the conditions are Siberian, then hurry up.

As you can see, the timing is more than vague, but experienced gardeners long time living in the same zone already have notes with a couple secret signs in your stock of knowledge. For example, some seriously think that garlic must be planted before the Intercession, while others - the day after this great holiday.

I know that, for example, in the conditions of the Tomsk region, planting winter garlic begins annually on September 22-23 and (if it’s hot), then it is delayed until October 7. Friends from Ufa always take a vacation and on the very first day of it, starting on October 8th, they plant garlic. Of course, there are thermometers to help us, and we also need to listen to our intuition: the older a person is, the better developed it is. My grandfather in Kazan plants garlic, regardless of the weather outside - stubbornly - in the first ten days of October and has not deviated from this tradition for twenty years.

So, one general rule for planting garlic, regardless of calendar dates, states: the cloves should be in the soil one and a half months (maximum 50 days) before the onset of real frosts, when the soil temperature drops below nine degrees Celsius. This optimal time so that the garlic forms a fairly decent bunch of roots (sometimes even 15 cm, but usually about ten).

Place to plant garlic

Choosing the right place is very important and affects the final result, so this point cannot be neglected. It must be remembered that garlic is a light-loving crop, therefore, we choose the most open and well-lit place on the site for it. Try to choose a place so that even during the day a short-term shadow does not cover this crop. As for predecessors, green manure, pumpkin (and all melons in general), tomatoes, any cabbage (especially early cabbage), legumes and leafy greens, and here bad predecessors for garlic - onions, garlic itself, carrots, cucumbers and potatoes.

Having chosen an area and decided on the predecessors, find out what kind of soil is in this area, do not forget that, like all bulbous plants, garlic loves loose soil, air- and water-permeable, nutritious and always with a neutral pH level, all this needs to be taken care of in advance, at least a month in advance.

Try not to plant garlic in the fall in swampy areas, those where melted or melted water accumulates for a long time. rainwater, where the soil is dense, clay-type, and of course, the soil is acidic, this is usually any soil that contains a lot of peat. You can plant garlic on sandstones, but it will be of little use: this substrate is poor and requires very frequent watering, so the bulbs will most likely turn out to be very small.

Preparing a bed for planting garlic before winter. © Laura Lemay

Soil preparation

As we know, there are different areas, and it’s good when a given area is raised, leveled and the ground on it is like fluff; It’s quite different when the site is low, the soil dries out slowly. What to do? In this case best option- this is a building raised beds(twenty centimeters is just right). The width of the beds can be any, but usually no one makes them more than a meter wide, it’s easier to weed.

Of course, raised beds have their drawbacks, don’t forget about them. The most important thing: the soil in such beds dries twice as fast as in a regular bed, but there are also advantages: in the event of rain or excessive watering, the water will drain faster, and such beds warm up in the spring twice as fast as level soil. The main thing is that they are fenced and do not spread throughout the area.

If the soils on your site are acidic, then you can completely abandon autumn planting garlic and spend the spring. Or, a month before planting, add 200 g of lime per square meter of bed, digging the soil well (with a shovel full). Certainly, perfect option– liming of the soil, especially for the predecessor of garlic, but then you will have to abandon both autumn and spring planting. In the fall, 250-300 g of lime are added for digging, and in the spring they are planted early cabbage, and in the fall of next year - winter garlic.

If everything is fine with the soil, that is, its reaction is neutral, then you can add 10-12 kg of humus, a tablespoon of superphosphate and a tablespoon of potassium sulfate to the beds for digging the beds, for each square meter. The main thing in in this case- do not seek help fresh manure, you can use humus, and if there is nothing but manure, then take advantage of the fact that it has lain in a heap for at least four years, that is, it has been well rotted.

Autumn planting of garlic before winter. © Gavin

Additionally, depending on the soil type:

If the soil is very heavy, clayey, dense and both melt and irrigation water stagnate on it for a long time, then it needs to be brought back to normal as quickly as possible. This should be done at least a month before planting garlic; this work is physically difficult and without the possibility of using technology, although it all depends on the size of the future bed with garlic. In order to make the soil loose, it is necessary to add a bucket of peat and river sand to each square meter of soil for deep digging.

If, on the contrary, the soil on your site is excessively loose, that is, sandy, then you need to compact it by adding clay and humus. Before applying, the clay must be dried very well, then crushed literally into the smallest parts to a powder state, and only after that, in combination with sand, can it be applied to the soil. Usually, per square meter for digging you need a bucket of both (that is, sand and clay).

For those with peat soils, which are often acidic, in addition to adding 250 g of lime per square meter, we recommend adding a bucket of sand, always river sand, and clay prepared according to the method described above. All this is introduced under the mandatory digging of the soil.

Planting garlic cloves

Let's start with the traditional and most common planting of garlic - planting cloves. When the bed is ready, leveled, loosened, you need to make rows on it, 18-20 cm apart from each other, and with very wide beds, 25 cm will be just right, but no more. The distance between the garlic cloves depends on their size: small ones can be planted, leaving 14-16 cm between them, larger ones - 19 and even 22 cm; saving soil in this case is simply pointless. Usually the cloves are sealed on loose soil to a depth of four centimeters, and on dense soil - to a depth of five or six centimeters.

Planting bulb bulbs

Between the rows it is quite possible to make the same distance equal to two tens of centimeters, but between the bulbs ten is enough if they are very small, and 15 cm if they are larger. Plant garlic bulbs on loose soil to a depth of four centimeters, on denser soil - to a depth of five centimeters. Usually, about three dozen bulbs are needed per square meter of bed, less often – more; it’s still not worth being partial with placement.

It is not worthwhile to plant garlic more often for the reason that usually weeds grow quite actively in its plantings and then it becomes elementary difficult to care for it; on top of everything else, banal competition arises between them and the bulbs simply cannot grow large.

You need to prepare the soil before planting garlic 10-15 days in advance, that is, if we plan to plant it at the end of September, then at the beginning of the month it is quite possible to start preparing the soil.

Is it necessary to treat garlic cloves before planting? It is rarely carried out; you can soak it for an hour or two in a light-colored solution of potassium permanganate, but usually success in cultivation lies in further agricultural technology.

On any soil, even the most loose, the maximum depth for a garlic clove is six centimeters, and for bulbs – five centimeters.

You cannot “stick” the garlic cloves too much; they must be carefully “placed” into the soil, for which the soil must first be brought to a loose state.

On planted beds after planting, it is enough to sprinkle the top layer with stove ash, 200 g per square meter.

Watering garlic after planting is not necessary; usually there is enough rain, but if none falls in a month, then you can water it once, using a bucket per square meter.

After the onset of frost, while there is no snow, the garlic can be covered with a layer of 15-25 cm of leaf litter, and a non-woven covering material can be spread over it. Or don’t use the leaves at all, making do with only the material.

In the north, winter garlic is protected - it is covered with straw manure, and horse manure, mixing manure and sawdust in equal parts. You can also cover it with humus in a layer of 18-20 cm. The main thing is to remove this cover as quickly and carefully as possible in the spring so that the soil warms up more actively and does not damage the seedlings.

A month after the snow melts, you can loosen the soil, trying to go 1.5-2 cm deep.

Summer is coming to an end, it's time to find out when to plant garlic before winter according to the lunar calendar in 2017. As you already know from our articles, it has a strong effect on plants. It has long been noted that during the full and new moons it is better not to plant or sow anything. The waning Moon is also not very favorable for planting, but the waxing Moon, on the contrary, helps plants grow.

What date to plant winter garlic

To get more early harvest garlic,

• 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 25. 26. 30 August
• 2. 3. 7. 8 September

The usual time for planting garlic in the fall is the end of September, beginning of October. Lucky days for planting according to the lunar calendar for 2017.

• 26. 27. 30. September,
• 1. 4. 5. 11. 12. 17. 18. 26. 27 October,
• V southern regions you can also plant 1. 3. 5. 13. 18. November 25

The time for planting garlic must be adjusted so that the cloves take root but do not sprout. Plant garlic in the fall, taking into account the weather forecast - there should be about 1 month before the onset of frost.

Unfavorable days for planting garlic in the fall

• 2. 11. 16. 18 August
• 1 and 16 September
• 16 October

According to many years of observations by gardeners, garlic planted these days produces poor shoots, often gets sick, and often rots altogether.

How to plant winter garlic

I wish you rich harvests

When to plant garlic in the fall according to the lunar calendar for 2017 table

Planting garlic in the fall video

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