Very often, customers turn to our company with a request to make products for them according to “their sizes.” As a rule, in most cases this leads to the fact that the customer, due to his inexperience, is forced to either adjust the dimensions of the window opening to these “own dimensions” or order new designs. Yes, no one is immune from mistakes, but they can be avoided. There is nothing wrong with the fact that the Customer wants to install his own windows, because, as they say: “Every man must build a house, ... etc.” Using our recommendations, every man will be able to independently take measurements from his window and door openings, and then later install new modern ones.
Let's look at taking measurements using the example of a regular rectangular opening and an opening of a complex shape (arch, trapezoid, triangle)
1. How to take the dimensions of a rectangular window (Fig. 1).
1. We measure width of the finished opening, Lpr. (opening width, mm)
2. Calculate overall window width, L (window width, cm), L = Lpr - 2*q
3. We measure finished opening height, Eg. (opening height, mm)
4. Calculate overall window height, N (window height), N = Npr - 2*q.
q is the size of the installation gap; usually q = 20-30 mm (for more details, see GOST 30971-02, clause 5.6.3.). You should not unnecessarily reduce or increase the width of the mounting seam, the first will lead to the fact that the mounting foam, when expanding, can stain the surface of the box, and second, that the mounting foam, due to having a certain expansion coefficient, will not stay in the mounting seam.
Common mistakes!
When measuring plastic windows, it should be taken into account that in almost 100 cases out of 100 a stand profile is attached to the bottom of the window frame. Its working height should be taken into account when calculating the height of the window. The formula for calculating the height in this case will look like
N = Npr - q.
There are no perfect rectangular openings. Control measurements are required.
Quick check. It is necessary to measure the existing width and height of the opening at three control points, along the edges and in the center, and select a smaller value. We want our new window to fit!
The check is detailed, additional tools will be required - a level and a plumb line. With their help, the position and dimensions of an ideal rectangle are determined (Fig. 2), which can be fit into the existing opening. The dimensions of the resulting virtual rectangle are taken as the dimensions of the opening (Fig. 3).
5. We measure wall thickness, G (wall thickness)
6. Define plastic window position according to the picture (Fig. 5).
It is recommended to place the window plane at a distance of no more than 2/3 of the wall thickness from the inner surface of the wall. It should be taken into account that shifting the window towards the street worsens the thermal insulation characteristics, but improves sound insulation; shifting towards the room, on the contrary, improves the thermal insulation properties, but worsens the noise resistance.
7. We measure outer tide length, Ln.o. (length of external drip) for drip without end caps Ln.o. = Lpr + 50 mm (allowance for end bends)
for low tide with end caps Ln.o. = Lpr – 20 mm
Typical error. The width of the opening according to the thickness of the wall can be different. Be careful when measuring.
8. We measure outer ebb width, Nn.o. (width of external ebb). Nn.o.
= Gext. + (30 mm-40 mm).
Typical error. In the case of measuring the ebb, it is better to make it exactly according to your dimensions, without “reserve”. An excessively protruding spout will spoil the appearance of the facade, and one made flush with the wall will lead to the formation of smudges on the wall. 9. We measure window sill length
, Lpod. (window sill length) (see Fig. 6).
Length of window sill board Lunder. must be greater than the opening width Lpr. by the total value of the left and right approaches to the wall. A typical mistake is to match the length of the window sill and the width of the window. You should always remember that the installation of a window is followed by its subsequent finishing, which consists of installing plastic slopes. The corners or trims included in the installation kit of the slopes must be adjacent to the window sill board in the lower plane. 10. We measure window sill width
, Npod. (window sill width) (see Fig. 6).
Practical advice. A window sill board with a long extension can prevent the hot air flow from the heating radiator from reaching the window surface.
You should adhere to the rule that the window sill board should cover no more than 1/3 of the radiator (Fig. 8).
If the heating radiators are recessed into the wall and the window sill board covers them completely, special ventilation grilles should be inserted into the front side of the window sill. 11. We measure length of internal slopes
(plastic), Ltk. (slope length)
The length of the slope panels is calculated not based on the size of the windows, but on the size of the window opening. The length of the horizontal panel of the slope is taken to be the maximum width of the window opening Lpr max+ 30 mm (allowance for adjustment), the length of the vertical panels is the maximum height of the opening Hpr. Max-20 mm (less due to the thickness of the window sill). 12. We measure width of internal slopes
(plastic), Notk. (slope width) (Fig. 10).
The width of the panels of plastic slopes cannot be measured accurately when measuring.
The required value is taken to be a conventional value with an allowance of 30-40 mm equal to the distance from the outer edge of the wall to the imaginary plane of the frame of the new design.
Expert advice.
Before measuring plastic windows, you should mentally imagine what work will be done on the exterior and interior decoration of the room where plastic windows are to be installed. External siding, plastering work, insulation - all this affects the width of window sill boards, external ebbs and plastic slopes.
When measuring balcony and entrance doors, the level of the finished floor should be taken into account.
Concrete screed, laying floorboards, laminate, etc. can cause a banal coincidence of the floor level and the lower edge of the door leaf, the door simply will not open.
For different REHAU profiles, the distance from the edge of the sash to the edge of the frame can be different; if for almost the entire line of REHAU profiles this distance is 38 mm, then for the REHAU Delight-design profile it is already 31 mm.
2. 2. How to take measurements of triangular, round, arched, etc. windows 1. Trapezoids, triangles.
Determine the position of the “heel” of the arch (“by eye”, or sequentially measuring the width of the opening as the height increases), make a mark;
- check the equality Lpr/2 = Npr max - Npr min;
- if the equality is true, then assign the overall dimensions of the arched product:
L = Lpr - 2*q;
Nmax = Npr max - 2*q;
Nmin = Npr min – q (lower);
- if the equality is not true, then check the position of the “heel” of the arch and repeat the check. Don't forget about the curvature of the openings
3. Arched windows (irregular arch).
- determine the position of the “heel” of the arch, sequentially measuring the width of the opening as the height increases, and make a mark;
- measure Npr min, Npr max, Lpr;
- determine the overall dimensions of the arched product graphically (assigning overall dimensions using formulas for a full arch is not recommended due to some displacement of the “heel” of the arch of the product relative to the “heel” of the opening arch, see Fig. 18).
- for reference: for an incomplete arch, the radius is determined by the formula
4. Pattern openings - at least one of the sides is a combination of radii or straight lines and radii (Fig. 19).
It is possible to measure the dimensions of this type of opening only by making a template. The material can be thick cardboard, thick foil, plywood sheet.
As an example, consider the method shown in Fig. 19:
- mark an arbitrary line 0-0 on the linear part of the opening;
- stretch a thread with marked divisions along the 0-0 line;
- measure the height of the opening from the thread with a step “a” = 10?15 cm (scale grid);
- determine “by eye” the heel of the arch and the transition points from radius to radius;
- measure L1, L2, h1, h2;
- calculate R1 and R2 (using the formula for the radius of an incomplete arch);
- on the general drawing to scale, depict the scale grid and radius dimensions of the opening;
- if the points of the scale grid and the radius dimensions coincide, determine the dimensions of the template using a graphical method (in case of a discrepancy, clarify the position of the heel and transition points, recalculate the radii, achieve a match);
- make a template, check it in the opening;
- according to the template, taking into account the dimensions of the linear part under the 0-0 line, manufacture the product.
Installing plastic windows is not an easy job and must be done with full responsibility.
To make a window frame of the required size, you will need its dimensions. You can do them yourself or call a specialist from a window company.
If you decide to involve specialists, then knowing the technology of taking measurements will not be superfluous. This way you can monitor the work and determine the level of their qualifications. Or you can do without specialists and take measurements yourself and save some money.
Before taking measurements, you need to properly prepare:
- Provide free access to the window. If work is carried out at height, open the window sash to take external measurements. When taking measurements in a private house or on the ground floor, you need to place a ladder or stepladder to the window;
- Take a pen and paper. Draw a table in which you will enter all parameter values;
- Measure the width, length and thickness of the window sill beam. Then the height and width of the window opening;
- Measure the length and width of the sill.
Important! All measurements are taken and recorded in millimeters.
Stages of taking measurements
- First, measure the width of the outer side of the window. The width is calculated from the side slopes. To obtain more accurate indicators, measurements should be carried out in two areas, above and below the window frame. The opening may be uneven. The smaller of the obtained results is entered into the table.
- Measure the height of the opening. First on the right side, then on the left.
- 20 mm is added to the width (subject to measuring windows in panel houses and 40 mm in brick houses). This distance is used to overlap the future window onto the ledge (quarter). There is no need to add extra millimeters to the height parameters, since a low tide is installed below, which should be level.
- Measure the ebb, which is presented between the side surfaces of the quarter. Add 30 mm to the resulting figure. If there are any materials left, you can always trim them.
- The width of the flashing is measured from the window to the end of the ledge. 25 mm is added to it.
- After closing the window, measure the inside of the opening. The principle of operation is similar to measuring the external part.
Self-measuring the window opening - can a beginner do it?
There are some features and requirements for correct and accurate taking of window measurements, subject to which even a beginner can cope with this task:
- To correctly take window measurements, you must have spatial imagination, as well as an understanding of the design of the house structure and the window frame.
- Measurements must be taken from the inside and outside. This will give an accurate result. If it is not possible to go outside due to the high floor, the measurement is carried out through the window sash.
- If the measurement is carried out for the customer, then it is necessary to clarify whether the outlines of the current opening will be preserved until the finished window frames arrive. Sometimes the dismantling of old frames is carried out by the owners carelessly, with cleaning of the concrete plaster or removing an additional row of bricks.
- When measuring window openings in panel houses, you need to take into account their possible distortions. This will prevent the appearance of through cracks. Very often there is a discrepancy between the parameters of the lower and upper parts of the window.
- When taking measurements as a performer, it is necessary to agree on the external parameters of the future window, how far it will protrude from behind the wall.
- When measuring the window span, it is also necessary to take into account the location of the ebb. The lower level of the window frame should not be lower than the edge of the projection on the outside.
- Having decided on the dimensions of the future window frame, it is necessary to once again compare them with the internal results of the opening measurements to ensure that they are performed correctly.
- An important indicator is the shape of the window, as it can be varied. For example, arched, rectangular, trapezoidal and so on.
How to correctly measure quarter-quarter window openings
A quarter is a protrusion located along the outer perimeter of the opening, 1/4 of the brick. It is done to keep the window structure from falling out.
- The first is the possible asymmetry of the protrusions.
- The size of the window frame should allow the structure to extend beyond the side projection by approximately 20–40 mm. That is, the future frame should be wider than the distance between the sides of the protrusions.
- The penetration of the structure into the protrusion from above should not exceed 15–20 mm.
- The window sill beam must be 10 mm higher than the lower level of the protrusion for normal installation of drainage.
Steps for measuring width
- The width of the hole is measured along the slopes from the outside. 40 mm is added to this indicator. (On one side 20 and on the other).
- The distance between the points of connection of the structure to the slopes from the inside is measured.
- Next, measure the width of the window opening from the inside.
Stages of height measurements
- The window is measured without a support beam.
- The height of the opening is measured from the upper slope to the base level. The measurement is taken from the outside. To the result obtained, 10 mm is added for the top gap.
- The height of the support beam and the height of the window structure are measured taking into account this profile.
How to measure a window opening in a wooden house
The peculiarity of window openings in wooden houses is the absence of protrusions (quarters). Most often, the frame is installed flush with the outer part of the wall. This allows you to avoid additional costs for finishing external slopes. It is enough to get by with platbands alone.
- The first thing you need to do is measure the width of the hole for the window.
- To do this, the structure is measured at three points, bottom, middle and top. By choosing the smallest indicator, 50 mm will be subtracted (25 on each side) to seal the window with polyurethane foam.
- The next parameter is the height of the structure.
- Height is measured using the same principle in three places. Taking the smallest indicator, the same 50 mm is subtracted.
Important! If there is a window sill, you need to take into account its thickness. If the future window sill is the same size as the previous one, nothing needs to be done. If it is thicker, the difference must be subtracted from the results of window height measurements.
- If measurements are taken in a house where there is a rough frame, the opening is measured inside it.
- The size of the street platband is also calculated taking into account the parameters of the rough frame. For example, the box size is 50 mm. To calculate the width of the finishing strip, the grip indicator on the wall and frame is summed up, 20 mm each. The installation seam is taken into account - 25 mm and the result is 115 mm, this is the width of the casing.
Important! When installing plastic windows in a new log house, you need to take into account its shrinkage and possible distortion of the structure. Therefore, when calculating the height of the frame, you need to subtract 10% for the shrinkage of the house and 50 mm for the polyurethane foam seam. Failure to maintain clearances when shrinking the house will lead to distortion of the structure and deformation of the entire frame.
How to measure a window opening in a brick house
The process of measuring a window opening in brick houses must be approached very responsibly, since the dimensions of the openings for the window do not always have standard dimensions.
Measuring features
- Protrusions (quarters) in brick houses can reach 100 mm in depth. In this regard, it is necessary to accurately calculate the size of the future structure so that it is hidden behind the quarter by no more than 30 mm, otherwise it will be completely hidden and the walls of the house will fall directly on the glass.
- When taking measurements, you also need to determine the boundary of the load-bearing wall. Since in these places the plaster may have a greater thickness for which adjustments should be made. Approximately a plus to the obtained frame parameters of 10–20 mm.
- Inside, the distance between the side slopes is measured both in width and in height.
- The height is measured from the window sill to the upper surface of the slope. Measurement is performed in two places: right and left.
- From the outside, the distance from the slope surfaces is measured in width and height. And also the height from the upper slope to the drainage basin.
- From the obtained indicators of the future frame, 20–30 mm are subtracted for the installation seam.
Consequences of incorrectly measuring a window opening
If measurements are taken incorrectly, the following problems arise:
- The window structure may be larger than the window opening. This will lead to additional costs for widening the hole for the frame.
- The window frame does not match the opening to the smaller side. As a result, there will be large gaps that will need to be sealed using special profiles or polyurethane foam, which will also entail additional costs. In addition, the window will not perform its functional tasks - protect the room from cold, rain, noise, and so on.
In conclusion, I would like to note that for high-quality installation of plastic windows, it is necessary to correctly measure the opening. There are a number of features and nuances that need to be taken into account in a given situation during the measurement process.
Thus, for openings of wooden and brick houses there is a specific technology that must be followed. But no matter what the house is, the main thing is a responsible approach to business. After all, incorrect measurements will lead to a mismatch between the window structure and the opening, which means additional costs and failure to fulfill its functional tasks.
Measuring the opening for installing a window must be approached very responsibly. After all, an incorrect measurement can lead to the need to carry out additional expensive work or redo the manufactured plastic window. Most window companies do not recommend taking measurements yourself. They are not responsible for the compliance of the dimensions of the manufactured window with the window opening if the measurements are made by the customer and not by a company specialist. But sometimes it becomes necessary to measure the window opening yourself. In this case, you need to carefully follow the instructions for measuring windows correctly.
Measurement of plastic windows
There are two types of window openings: with a quarter and without a quarter. A quarter is a protrusion from the sides and top of a window opening that prevents the window from falling out and protects against the penetration of precipitation and wind into the room. The width of a quarter in a panel house is 50 mm, in a brick house – 65 mm, or ¼ of a brick.
Window measurement occurs in 4 stages:
- calculating window opening sizes
- low tide measurement
- window sill measurement
- determination of slope dimensions
How to measure plastic windows
Measuring the window opening starts from the street side, then moves to the inside. To do this, open the window and measure the width of the opening between the quarters at the top and bottom. These details may vary. To the smallest result obtained, add 3–5 cm if the house is panel, and 4–6 cm for a brick building. This value will be the width of the window. To check whether the window width was measured correctly, compare the result obtained with the opening width of the inside of the window and with the distance between the places where the slopes touch the window frame. It should be between these values. To calculate the height of the window, you need to measure the distance from the bottom of the window opening to the edge of the upper quarter. To this value you need to add 2-3 cm to overlap the quarter and subtract 2 cm for the thickness of the polyurethane foam. If the window has a sill and a sill, a stand profile will be used when installing it. In this case, the window height value is reduced by another 3 cm. If the measurement is done correctly, then the height value will be almost equal to the distance from the end of the upper quarter to the upper edge of the ebb.
If the window opening does not have quarters, then when calculating the width of the window, subtract 3–8 cm from the width of the opening for the installation gap. The height is calculated by subtracting 5–6 cm from the height of the opening, of which 3 cm is for the stand profile.
The length and width of the ebb are calculated as follows: add 5 cm to the distance between the right and left quarters. This is the length of the ebb. To calculate its width, add 2 cm to the distance from the end of the quarters to the window.
The window sill is measured from the side of the room. It should be taken into account that the new plastic window is only 5–6 cm thick, while the windows that were installed previously are wider. Therefore, to calculate the width of the window sill, subtract 5–6 cm from the distance from the outer sash of the old window to the edge of the window sill. The length of the window sill is the distance from edge to edge of the inner part of the window opening.
The width and length of the slopes are measured along the inside of the window opening.
All values must be recorded in millimeters.
If you are building a wooden log house, do not forget to take into account that the log house will “sit down” for at least two years. If the windows will be installed immediately after the frame is assembled, then when calculating the height of the window from the height of the opening, you need to subtract 10–15% for shrinkage and another 5–6 cm for installation. The window width is measured as described above. If you do not take into account the shrinkage of the frame, then the lowered top rims of the frame can break the window. Experts recommend installing windows in a log house only after it shrinks. The method of installing windows in a log house differs from the usual one, since there should be no rigid fastening of the window to the logs, in order to avoid window breakage or “hanging” of the upper crowns. A casing box is used, which is attached to a block inserted into a vertical groove sawn at the ends of the window opening logs. In this case, the crowns can move down the block without breaking the window or becoming stuck.
If possible, you should entrust the window measurements to an employee of the organization that will produce and install the windows. In this case, you can be sure that the measurement is correct. In addition, the company will be responsible for the manufacture and installation of windows. If the measurement is made independently, then you yourself will be responsible.
Before starting an excursion about preparing windows for installation, how to correctly measure openings and ultimately install these same windows, I would like to say that there is a standard for plastic windows. This standard contains section D (recommendatory), which provides the procedure for installing plastic windows. You can get acquainted with this section in more detail by studying GOST 30674-99 - in fact, a document regulating the production and installation of plastic windows.
Unfortunately, this document does not contain step-by-step instructions from start to finish on how to install windows in accordance with GOST, but only the end result. Our article was created to tell you step by step how to install a plastic window and the possible features when installing it.
The time of year favorable for installing a plastic window
You have already guessed what will be discussed in this paragraph. No, we don’t want to say that construction stops in winter and everyone is waiting for warmer weather. But, it is during the warm period that you can comfortably install a window, restore slopes using wet work (use of cement mortars), polyurethane foam has the highest yield, and so on. Of course, it is better to install windows in the warm season. And let’s say more, according to the technology, it is generally impossible to install plastic windows in cold weather! (below -10 degrees Celsius).
As a result, incorrect installation can affect the quality of work, and therefore the quality of window performance. In this case, it makes sense to wait for a warm period in order to install the windows as expected and not have to suffer later with distortions, cracks, and adjustments.
Measuring openings for installing a plastic window
To measure you will need a tape measure. Correct measurement is the first step to successful installation of PVC windows. If the measurement is made in a panel house, then everything is simple here; the measurement is made from the lines of intersection of the slope planes and the walls.
Measuring the opening for the plastic obutton for panel houses.
The peculiarity of the openings of panel houses is the L-shaped section that holds the window in the wall. When taking measurements in panel houses, it is necessary to pay special attention to the size of the opening on the apartment side. Inside, we measure the distance between the side slopes at the top and bottom, as well as the height from the window sill to the upper slope on the right and left.
The window sill must have a width = wall thickness - window profile width (60mm) - distance from the outer wall to the L-shaped step in the wall + protrusion (5-100mm).
Measuring the opening for a plastic window in a brick house
When measuring for the installation of windows in a brick house, it is important to determine the boundary of the load-bearing wall, that is, the beginning of the brickwork. Here, the plaster on the slopes can be of considerable thickness, it is for this thickness that an adjustment should be made, about 1-2 cm plus the size. Inside, we measure the distance between the side slopes at the top and bottom, as well as the height from the window sill to the upper slope on the right and left. From the outside, we measure the width of the opening from wall to wall from top and bottom, as well as the height from low tide to the top of the opening on the left and right. Measurements from the outside and inside are necessary to determine the possible angle of non-prependicular slope of the window relative to the wall.
The window sill must have a width = wall thickness - 50 mm. 50 mm is left for finishing the external slopes.
Measuring the opening for a plastic window in a wooden house
In a wooden house, the window opening has parallel slopes and is actually measured in the same way as for a brick house. It is also worth noting that when old wooden windows are replaced with new ones, the openings in secondary wooden housing are often widened, since plastic windows are “warmer”. In this case, when installing the window, you will need a gas or electric saw to change the geometry of the opening.
The window sill should have a width = the thickness of the wall.
Dimensions of the window and its components after taking measurements
In most cases, after comparing measurements from top and bottom, from right and left, there is a discrepancy in the results. This is due to the skew of the existing opening, especially in panel houses. To calculate the window size, a regular rectangle with identical opposite sides equal to the smaller value of the measured opening from the outside is used; a smaller size will ensure that the window can pass through the opening without destroying the strength elements of the wall.
As a result, taking into account the existing factors, plaster, old frames, etc. it is necessary to strive for the following indicators:
The width of the window should be 30-40 mm less than the width of the opening relative to the “power” slopes;
- the height of the window must provide a gap between the lower slope and the window equal to the thickness of the window sill (a standard plastic window sill has a width of 20 mm) + a gap for installing a base bar (30-40 mm) + a guaranteed gap as for the width (30 mm). Total about 80-90 mm.
After these measurements, you can order the window, window sill and fasteners. On average, the production and delivery of a plastic window takes 8-10 days, in large cities - 3-4 days.
Preparations for installation (installation) of plastic windows
remove everything from the windowsill, remove the curtains, clear the approach to the window, provide access to the electrical network, prepare garbage bags, cover the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.
Removing old windows
After you have received your window, you can begin dismantling the old window and installing a new window. It is very difficult to dismantle the old structure without destroying the frame, since it is a labor-intensive and therefore time-consuming process. Most often, after dismantling, only the sashes remain intact. I remove them from the hinges first. They saw the old frame in the middle and knock it out of the opening.
Preparing a place for a new window. We remove the sashes, dismantle the frame, old ebb and window sill. Clean the opening from debris, old insulation, and large protrusions of wall slopes that stand out and affect the parallelism of the walls. If, on the contrary, deep depressions and peelings are found in a brick and panel house, it would be better to first restore the wall and only then continue installing the window. You don’t have to wait for the cement to completely harden, but initially ensure that it at least fills the depressions.
Installation (installation) of a plastic window
Compliance with technology is the key to proper window installation. Based on the conditions for using professional polyurethane foam, the air temperature should be from - 10 to + 30°C; ideal conditions for using foam are considered to be a temperature of +20°C and humidity from 60 to 80%. Depending on the size of the window, we calculate the volume of foam. The weight of one cylinder should be 850-920g. with a foaming agent content of 750 ml. Manufacturers promise foam yield in the range of 45 - 50 liters, but it is necessary to take into account the filled volumes. Given the condition of heterogeneity and a large number of irregularities, you can count on filling 15-20 liters with one cylinder. At the same time, you will need a foam gun, PSUL tape (along the outer perimeter of the window), vapor barrier tape (along the inner perimeter of the mounting seam). Also: level, plumb line, hammer drill, drill and nails corresponding to the size of the dowel (more often used, 8x60)
The sashes are removed from the plastic window and the glass units are removed. For more information on how to remove double-glazed windows, see the article “Replacing double-glazed windows in plastic windows.” Do not forget to mark all the beads of the glass unit being removed so that in the future you can put them exactly in the same place. During the production process, glazing beads are determined in place with a special ruler and a slight discrepancy (1-2mm) will be noticeable at the junction of horizontal and vertical glazing beads.
The protective film is removed from the outside of the window block box and PSUL tape is glued. This is a vapor-permeable sealing tape that looks like foam rubber impregnated with a special composition. This allows you to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure to the sun and moisture from the street. A vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the plastic frame to protect the installation seam from the inside of the room from moisture.
Load-bearing blocks are installed in the opening; they will take the main weight of the PVC structure. They are aligned to the level and height of the corresponding installed box. Place the box on the blocks close to the outer opening. Align the frame with a plumb line with absolute axial symmetry and a thin end (often the quality of the level does not allow you to determine the correct position). Next, using a hammer drill, drill a hole through the profile of the window block frame into the wall to the depth of the existing dowel nail. Most often, 4 holes are made, two on the right and left sides of the box. It is necessary that the dowel and nail go into the wall through the box before pressing the head against the box. But without fanaticism, when the head is pressed against the box, it begins to imperceptibly deform under the applied efforts and turns from rectangular to oval.
There is another way to secure the box using locking plates. They are also installed, two at a time, on the edges and then fixed in the wall. Depending on the type of window system available, appropriate iron plates are purchased.
After this, the box stands on its own on the blocks and corresponds to the set level.
Please note that the condensate outlet holes should go to the drain and not to the window opening
The gaps between the wall and the frame are filled with foam. If the volume is large, it is better to foam in several approaches. This will depend on the density of the foam application, taking into account its drying. Pay attention to the outer part of the window; if the PSUL tape somewhere does not adhere to the wall or simply comes loose, such a place must be covered with sealants. There should be no empty opening or gap between the window frame and the wall from the outside. We wait for it to dry.
The window sill is cut to fit the corresponding opening in width and length. The window sill protrudes into the room by 5-10 cm, and to the sides of the window opening by 5 cm on each side. 
...and is attached to special grooves on the box,
with a slight slope from the window, but strictly horizontal in level. When choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be taken into account that the window sill is “recessed” under the window frame by 2 cm, so the width of the installed window sill will be 2 cm less) 
The ebb is screwed to the box using self-tapping screws, previously cut to fit the opening. 
We begin to install the sashes and double-glazed windows, taking into account that the first glazing bead is attached from the top, in order to prevent the double-glazed window from falling.
Yes, it's really not difficult at all. We will now tell you how to correctly measure for your future plastic windows. By following our simple instructions, you won’t even notice how quickly and easily you can do it. The main thing is not to rush. Let's do everything together, step by step.
First, you need to determine what kind of window opening you have - with or without a quarter. To make it clear to you what kind of “quarter” this is, here is a small diagram.
Accordingly, on the left is a window opening with a quarter, on the right - without a quarter. Got it? Go ahead.
Let's assume that your window is quarter-less. Then we will proceed as follows:We measure the size of the opening vertically and subtract 5 cm - this will be the height of your window. And subtract 3 cm from the horizontal size of the opening - this will be the width of your window. Subsequently, during installation, these 3 cm will be filled with mounting foam (1.5 cm on each side of the window). And 5 cm in the vertical plane is 1.5 cm from the top of the window - again for mounting foam, and 3.5 cm from the bottom is needed to install the window sill.
To measure the width of the flashing, take the distance from the edge of the brickwork to the frame of the old window. We take measurements from the outside of the opening. To the resulting size we add 3-5 cm, i.e. we get a small protrusion of the ebb behind the outer brickwork. It is needed to prevent rainwater from flowing down the wall. We measure the length of the ebb between the slopes of the window opening, also on the street side. Add 5 - 8 cm to the resulting distance.
All that remains is to take measurements of the length and width of the future window sill and also add to these dimensions at least 5-8 cm in both directions so that the window sill “crashes” a little on the right and left into the wall. It is better to take 20-30 centimeters in reserve; the excess will still be cut off during installation. Naturally, we measure the window sill from the inside of the opening.
Window sills and ebbs, as a rule, have standardized dimensions of width (10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 cm) and length (up to 6 m). In order to decide on a suitable window sill and ebb from the available standard sizes, you need to obtain your minimum dimensions. Actually, that's all. We measured the window “without a quarter”.
Have you taken a closer look at your window, and it turns out that it’s still only a quarter? Now we will deal with him! So:
We measure the size of the window opening horizontally between the quarters at the narrowest point. Add 3-4 cm to this size (1.5-2 cm on each side of the window). This will be the width of our window. And vertically we simply measure the distance from the bottom of the opening to the upper quarter, without adding or subtracting anything. This will be the vertical size of our window. We measure the window sill and ebb in the same way as in the version of the opening without a quarter.
Thus, in both cases we get the 6 necessary sizes to order a window:
- window height;
- window width;
- length of the window sill;
- window sill width;
- low tide length;
- width of the ebb.
Windows can now be ordered! Don't forget to order the window sill plugs (with mandatory indication of the overhang width), installation profile and fasteners. Take a responsible approach to choosing the type of profile and glass unit, mentally or on paper, select options for opening the sashes of the future window (hinged, tilt-and-turn, without opening). We also recommend mosquito nets, blinds and mechanisms for multi-stage ventilation.