Garden hydrangea: features of growing in open ground. Planting paniculata hydrangea and caring for the plant

Hydrangea is a tall or short growing plant that belongs to the Hydrangeaceae family. Grows in the south of Sakhalin, China and Japan. Selected species can also be found in the Russian Far East. There is another name for hydrangea - hydrangia (Hydrangea) and this is explained by the fact that the flower loves moisture very much. It is often grown in garden plots, as the plant has adapted well to the Russian climate.

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Description

Hydrangea can be found in the form climbing vine, upright shrub, deciduous small tree. According to the description, this is a heat-loving and frost-resistant plant. Tree-like varieties and rounded bushes can reach a height of three meters, and the vine grows up to 30 meters. The leaves are large, oval, with a sharp tip, barely noticeable veins and teeth along the edges. They are located opposite.

The flowers are bright, airy, delicate, of various shades. The inflorescences at the ends of the shoots resemble panicles, shields, umbrellas, and balls. Most often they white, and in some species - lilac, blue, pink, red. The fruits are in the form of separate capsules with a large number of small seeds.

Types and varieties

Most adapted to Russian conditions the following types:

View	Description	Varieties
Hydrangea paniculata	It has large ovate, slightly pubescent leaves. The inflorescences have pyramidal shape and consist of greenish flowers, which over time acquire a delicate cream color. In autumn, the inflorescences turn pink, pale purple or brick-colored.	Grandiflora – this variety is interesting due to the color of its inflorescences. When the plant begins to bloom, the flowers are creamy white, during flowering they turn pure white, then pink, and when they fade, they acquire a greenish-red hue. Limelight - the inflorescences have a pronounced green or lemon tint. Vanilla Fraze - pyramid inflorescences are white at the beginning of flowering, but after a while they become rich pink. Phantom - the flowers are cream in summer and pink in autumn. Sundae Fraise/Rensun is a dwarf shrub with large, wide-pyramidal inflorescences. Bobo - leaves are small, oval, dark green. The flowers are white, pink or lemon, collected in cone-shaped inflorescences. Diamond Rouge - compact shrub with lush inflorescences of red flowers
Hydrangea pink	It is a shrub that grows up to one meter in height. The basal shoots are thickened, densely covered with thin branches, abundantly overgrown with pink inflorescences in mid-summer. The leaves are oval-shaped with sharp ends. Umbrella-shaped inflorescences fill the center of the flowers small size, and large buds form around them
Hydrangea largeleaf	Tall shrub with large leaves. Round-shaped inflorescences come in various colors: from soft blue to pink	Blaumais is a spreading shrub with unusually beautiful flowers of blue, lilac-blue, pink.
Hydrangea	This is a tall plant that can grow up to 4–5 meters. The leaves are large, rich green in color. Globular inflorescences form at the top of annual shoots. The greenish flowers become soft cream after a while.	Anabel - a shrub covered with a cap of white flowers. Sterilis - large hemispherical inflorescences are initially greenish-white, and after a while they become snow-white



Selection of location and soil

The place where paniculata hydrangea will be grown should be draft-free and moderately lit. It does not tolerate sunlight well, especially in the heat. It is best to choose a site on the east side with morning sun. Slight partial shade promotes the formation of fewer inflorescences and later flowering. Sliding partial shade in the afternoon is suitable for colored shrub flowers.

The soil where hydrangea will be grown must be fertile, loose, clay, which contains humus, and neutral. The roots of the shrub extend far from the trunk, so you should not introduce ash, dolomite flour or chalk into the soil within a diameter of 5–6 meters from the planting site. Bulbous flowers - hyacinths, gladioli, tulips - cannot be planted in this space. To neutralize acidic soil, you can add brown peat, sawdust or coniferous soil. Hydrangea grows poorly on red soil, and sandy soil is completely contraindicated for it.

In regions with a cold climate (for example, in the Urals), it is best to plant shrubs in open ground in the spring, when the soil has already warmed up and the threat of morning frosts has passed. In this case, the plant takes root well and easily endures the first winter after planting. IN southern regions Hydrangea is planted in the fall.



Landing technology

To plant paniculata hydrangea in open ground, you must adhere to the following rules:

• seedlings are planted at a distance of 120–160 cm from each other;
• the planting hole should be 50 cm wide and 35–45 cm deep.

For planting, seedlings of 4-5 years old are used, which take root well and bloom in the same year. 2-3 buckets of water are poured into the prepared holes so that the earth is well moistened. The next day they are filled almost to the top with the mixture. fertile soil, peat, sand and humus, adding superphosphate, potassium sulfate and urea to it, and then mixing.

Before planting, lightly trim the roots of the seedlings, lower the plant into the hole, straighten the root system and dig in so that the root collar is slightly above the soil surface. The soil near the trunk is mulched with acidic peat, leaf humus or pine needles, and the bush is shaded from the bright sun.

Care

Hydrangea paniculata loves moisture very much, so the soil in the tree trunk circle should always be slightly moistened. The soil should not be allowed to dry out in hot weather.

The plant is watered once a week, with three buckets of water used for one bush. Potassium permanganate can be added to it from time to time. So that the moisture in the ground lingers longer, trunk circle periodically mulch with sawdust or leaves.

Caring for hydrangea involves fertilizing. They do this four times a season. In early spring, when sap flow begins, organic matter is added to the ground - a solution of bird droppings or mullein. Next time the plant is fed during budding. To do this, use the following composition, which is mixed in 10 liters of water:

• urea – 25 g;
• superphosphate – 35 g;
• potassium sulfate – 35 g.

In mid-summer, a solution of granular complex mineral fertilizer is taken to feed hydrangeas. For one bush use 2-3 buckets. The fourth time the plant is fed in preparation for winter, using a special fertilizer intended for hydrangeas and not containing nitrogen.

To form the ideal shrub, hydrangeas are pruned. They do this at the end of March, leaving 5–10 developed shoots and shortening them to 3–5 buds. The remaining shoots should be cut to the ground. To rejuvenate an old plant, all shoots are shortened to 6–7 cm from the soil surface; next year it will produce young shoots.

When preparing for winter, paniculata hydrangea in the Urals must be covered. Sometimes this is done in the middle zone if there is a frosty and snowless winter ahead. The root zone is covered with a 20 cm thick layer of dry branches, peat or rotted manure. When snow falls, a snowdrift should be thrown under the bush.

Reproduction

Hydrangea paniculata is propagated in two ways:

• cuttings;
• layering.

Cuttings with 4–5 buds that remain after pruning in the spring are placed in a weak solution of “Kornevin” for two days and planted in a garden bed, deepening the cut by two buds into loose acidic soil. They need to be protected from bright sun, and the soil should be moistened regularly so that it does not dry out. After leaves appear on the cuttings, the shading is gradually removed. Next summer, the first flower stalks must be removed so that the plant can direct all its energy to growing the root system. On permanent place cuttings are planted when they are 4–5 years old.

Reproduction by layering is a very easy way. In the spring, a low-growing shoot of a young bush is bent to the soil, pinned to it and the place of fixation is sprinkled with peat or fertile soil. The cuttings are watered and covered with spruce branches for the winter. It is separated from the mother plant the following spring and transplanted into a garden bed for growing.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea paniculata can suffer from diseases and pests. Most often, aphids and powdery mildew. To get rid of aphids, use garlic infusion. To prepare it, add 250 g of crushed cloves to a bucket of water and leave for two days. After this, add 50 g of grated laundry soap to the solution, mix and treat the bush so that not only the upper side of the leaves is wet, but also the lower side. The procedure is carried out once a week until the aphids disappear. If this method does not help, use acaricidal drugs - "Aktellik", "Aktaru" or "Akarin".

To cure powdery mildew, the plant is treated with a solution of Fundazol or 1% Bordeaux mixture. This should be done several times every 10–12 days.

Hydrangea paniculata is an unusual plant amazing beauty, which has many types. It can be grown both at home in large pots and in your garden. Today we will tell you everything about planting and caring for paniculata hydrangea. open ground.

IN growing wild paniculate hydrangea occurs as a shrub and small trees up to 10 m in height. Natural places Habitats are the southern shores of Sakhalin, China and the islands of Japan. Here hydrangea grows in the form of trees.

In our latitudes, hydrangea also grows well, but no more than 3 m in height. She got used to the heat of the south of the country, and to the frosts of the Urals and Siberia. However, the territory of central Russia, the Moscow region, is especially well suited for its cultivation. With proper care, the bush will add 25-30 cm every year.

Paniculata hydrangea looks very picturesque in the garden. Flowering begins in early July and lasts until the first frost. Inflorescences up to 30 cm long resemble panicles in shape. Small flowers grow on them, which can be of 2 types:

• bisexual (small in size, after pollination the petals quickly fall off);
• sterile (about 3 cm, do not fall off for a long time).

In many species of this plant, the petals change color. At first they are creamy, then gradually turn pink, then turn green or red.

The leaves are oval in shape, quite large - reaching 10-12 cm in length. They have a velvety texture and are also slightly pubescent. Leaf blades abundantly cover the branches.

Hydrangea paniculata is considered a long-liver. On average, it grows for about 60 years.

The following varieties of paniculata hydrangea are most suitable for growing on our territory:

• Pinky-Winky;
• Grandiflora;
• Polar bear;
• Kyushu;
• Tardiva;
• Limelight;
• Vanilla fries;
• Phantom;
• Mega Pearl.

Every year, hydrangea varieties are updated. You can always choose a suitable variety and plant it on your site. However, before doing this, you should definitely find out whether it is suitable for growing in your climate or not.

Hydrangea propagation occurs by seeds, cuttings and layering. This can be done at home, but keep in mind that planting in open ground will not occur earlier than two years. This is a very labor-intensive and slow process. Best buy ready seedlings for landing.

Getting ready to land

Planting hydrangea paniculata, as well as subsequent care for it, does not require special skills. The shrub grows quickly and begins to bloom within 2-3 years. But you should still familiarize yourself with the basic rules in order to properly plant hydrangea in open ground. These include:

1. Landing place. Choose areas that are protected from strong winds and have good lighting. It should be borne in mind that it blooms best in partial shade, that is, it will be great if a shrub or tree grows nearby. It is best to plant on the east side of the garden.
2. Hydrangea planting dates. In cold climates, seedlings should be planted in early May, in the southern regions - in September.
3. Soil and acidity. Hydrangea grows very well in fertile and clay soils that are rich in humus. It grows worse on red soils. Sandy soils are completely contraindicated. The optimal acidity indicator is pH 5.3-6.0. That is, the soil should be slightly acidic, this way you can ensure maximum brightness of the inflorescences. On neutral soil, the inflorescences are pale in color, and the bush grows slowly.
4. Purchase of seedlings. Give preference to seedlings only with a closed root system, as they are less likely to be susceptible to any diseases. Seedlings can be bought at garden stores and flower fairs.

Step-by-step instructions for planting paniculate hydrangea

The technology for planting garden paniculata hydrangea is as follows:

1. 2-4 weeks before planting, completely clear the area of ​​plant debris and dig up with a shovel.
2. Dig holes 40-50 cm deep and 70*70 cm wide. If you plan to make a hedge, then dig a continuous ditch of the same dimensions. The distance between the holes can be from 1 m to 2.5 m - it all depends on the specific variety.
3. Prepare soil mixture. The composition includes leaf soil, turf soil, peat and humus in equal quantities. Nutrients should also be added there: 25 g of potassium sulfate, 70 g of superphosphate and 25 g of urea. Under no circumstances should you add chalk, lime and wood ash.
4. Fill the planting holes with the prepared soil mixture.
5. After 2-4 weeks, dig the holes again. For planting, 3-4 year old hydrangea seedlings are taken. If they were with bare roots, then they should be shortened a little.
6. Place the seedling on the cone of soil mixture at the required depth and carefully fill the hole. The root collar should be located at ground level, maximum 1-2 cm lower. Compact the soil with your palms.
7. Water the bush with 10 liters of warm, settled water and mulch. Sawdust, bark or peat work well as mulch.

Below is a photo of planting paniculata hydrangea:

Garden hydrangea is a heat-loving plant that needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture. If you want to grow a strong and healthy shrub, do not neglect these instructions.

Care after landing

It is impossible to grow paniculata hydrangea without proper care. It includes several factors, each of which we will examine in more detail:

1. Watering. Hydrangea is a moisture-loving flower. In the absence of sufficient moisture, development is disrupted, so drought is strictly contraindicated. It is recommended to water once every 2 weeks with 20 liters of water, hot weather– 1 time per week, and in rainy summer – 1 time per month.

You can add 2-3 g of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. It should be watered in the tree trunk in the morning or evening, when the sun is not scorching. Do not forget to loosen the soil 5 cm deep after each watering and remove weeds.

2. Mulching. After watering, sprinkle the soil with peat chips or pine needles. This will prevent rapid evaporation of moisture.

3. Feeding. It should be applied quite often, since the shrub is a fast-flowering one. In spring, water the hydrangea with a urea solution (20 g per 10 liters of water). Under large bushes, at least 20 liters should be poured.

At the beginning of the growing season, a good result can be achieved by adding nettle infusion, and then immediately a bucket of water. Mullein solution should be added every 2 weeks. It is prepared simply: fill a bucket of manure with 3 liters of water and let it brew for 3 days, after which dilute 1 liter of infusion in 10 liters of water and water the bush. When the first buds appear, apply 2 mineral fertilizers (70 g superphosphate + 45 g potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water) with a two-week break between each feeding.

4. Pruning in spring and autumn. All varieties paniculata hydrangea need pruning. In November, all dry inflorescences should be cut off so that they do not create additional weight on the branches in winter. In the spring, before sap flow begins, you should completely get rid of incorrectly located and weak shoots. Frost damage should be pruned back to a healthy location. Annual shoots should be shortened by a third. When pruned on time and correctly, hydrangea blooms very profusely.

5. Shelter for the winter. After removing faded inflorescences, you need to prepare for winter. Paniculate tree-type hydrangeas do not need to be covered. They are winter-hardy - simple mulching is enough for them. In the conditions of the Moscow region, the Middle Zone, the North-West, Siberia and the Urals, hydrangea must be covered.

To do this, the bush is covered with soil, and the tree trunk circle should be mulched with pine needles, rotted manure or peat. Afterwards, bend the branches extremely carefully to the ground so that they do not break. Cover them with spruce branches, sawdust or dry leaves. Place a box or box on top of the bush. Carefully tie up large bushes, make a frame shelter (a kind of “hut”) and sprinkle dry leaves there. The winter shelter should be dismantled gradually, you can start in April.

Caring for hydrangea is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to water and feed on time, then the risk of disease and pests will be minimized. Do not forget about pruning, then lush flowering will be ensured.

Paniculata hydrangea can fit into any landscape design. You can grow a hedge from it, plant it in pairs. It will look great as a single plant.

Hydrangea, planting and care are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen location and soil composition of the soil can lead to disease and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, you need to properly care for the shrub after planting in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, when the ground thaws, the buds have not yet bloomed, and autumn - in September. When choosing a place for an ornamental foliage plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, since bright sun causes slow growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangea can be grown in open sunny areas, but this requires abundant watering. It is advisable to protect young shrubs from bright sun and high winds. It is not recommended to place under trees that absorb water heavily.

The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moist, consist of a balanced mixture of humus, leaf soil, peat chips, river sand (2:2:1:1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil negatively affects development. The soil should have a Ph level of approximately 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas in open ground

In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangea in open ground in the spring, in southern regions, including in Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to arrange a planting hole for a beautiful shrub, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and 0.4-0.5 m in depth. When planting, be guided by the size of the root system; if it is too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a location and planting hydrangeas with a closed root system - pictured

It is necessary to add the prepared soil mixture into the hole and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, backfilled without deepening the root collar, which should be flush with the soil. A slight deepening is acceptable, but not more than 20-30 mm; too deep a planting can subsequently lead to rotting of the neck.

The soil in the tree trunk area must be compacted well. Watering hydrangeas after planting is mandatory; it is necessary that the water penetrates well to a root depth of 30-40 cm. It is better to water in a hole next to the plant.

Fertilizing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in a circle around the trunk. Mulch also inhibits growth weed, and protects the roots from overheating. Peat chips, wood chips or bark are used as mulching material in a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

The mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. It is best to lay mulch late spring, at a time when the earth has already warmed up well, but is still wet.

watering hydrangeas - pictured

In order for the shrub to grow well and delight with abundant flowering, garden hydrangea is fertilized when planting, then in the spring in the third ten days of May or in early summer - early June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Don’t forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium nitrate and urea. Subsequent feeding of hydrangea is carried out at intervals of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to become lignified by the winter period.

For strong and flexible shoots, decorative shrubs are watered with a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate. In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangea, which contain magnesium and iron, which the plant needs.

mulching hydrangea with wood chips - pictured

Paniculate hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover mostly have pinkish, cream colors, which can be changed if desired. The color of hydrangea is directly determined by the acidity of the soil. If the soil has a slightly alkaline reaction, the flowering will be pink and crimson; on acidic soils, hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline soil, the bush is watered with solutions of iron salts. To get a more intense blue color under the hydrangea, you should bury rusty metal cans.

Pruning hydrangea - continue to care

Do I need to prune hydrangeas and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it is necessary to remember that pruning of large-leaved, serrated, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved hydrangeas is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut off old branches and weak ones to strong buds.

Pruning paniculata and tree hydrangea involves removing old and faded shoots, which are also weak. At the same time, experienced gardeners not recommended to remove large number shoots at the same time, it is better to extend the procedure over a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. As a rule, the main branches are not touched; only those that are bad and grow inside the bush are cut off.

autumn pruning hydrangeas - in the photo

You can prune hydrangeas in spring and autumn, but it is preferable in autumn, since sap flow slows down, and pruning will promote lush flowering in the spring. During the spring months, improper pruning can slow down growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring the shrub begins to actively start processes, juice is released when pruned, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant warmth sets in.

Pruning hydrangeas for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them overwinter without surgical intervention, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all difficult, will definitely please its lush flowering, if you suddenly decide to grow unpretentious plant in your garden.

Gotensias: photos on the topic

We describe planting and caring for hydrangea in spring and autumn (tree-like, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Let's consider the location, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparation for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Urals, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangea in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is heat-loving, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Landing location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant; it grows well in sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong wind should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary; she really loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade; in this case, it blooms later with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sunlight in the morning, in the first half of the day. Therefore, the eastern side is better suited than the western side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well in fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red soils, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimal acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and at neutral slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). When a bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron objects (nails, a jar, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mixture

Compound: humus, turf soil, leaf soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil(chernozem), peat and sand – 2:2:1:1. And also nutrients: 20-25 g (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 g of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 g of superphosphate (150-250 g of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil under them. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without applying fertilizers during planting.

Complete ban on lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate - 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, “mixborder”), then you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve more early flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Planting pit

Depth – 36-45, width – 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be located at soil level, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole of the desired size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare the soil mixture and fill the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling on a cone of soil mixture at the desired depth and straighten the roots. Gradually fill the hole and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Cover the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or autumn?

The best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period To plant hydrangea in cold climates - only in spring, but in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Caring for hydrangea after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut off the inflorescences at the bud (pea) stage. And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and above-ground parts, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Caring for garden hydrangea: growing secrets

Caring for a flower consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the tree trunk for greater moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or wood chips in a 7-8 cm layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed them for the first two years. The general rule of fertilizing is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate) before July, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate) from July to October.

The plant's need for nutrients is high as it grows quickly and blooms powerfully.

1. Complex nutrition for growth. In early - mid-May, feed with complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 g) of urea + 25-30 g of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 g) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic fertilizers: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizer for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid fertilizing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 g of superphosphate and 41-49 g of potassium sulfate in water and water the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding at the time of mass flowering to prolong it and ensure the formation of new flower buds.

• It is not recommended to use wood ash for feeding. Fertilizers are well suited for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid excess nitrogen, which leads to decreased winter hardiness, poor flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April - May.
• Important! An excess of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, manure), will do more harm than a deficiency.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to impaired development.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if there is a rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

Lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water is best for irrigation.

Water better in the morning or in the evening near the tree trunk, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Proper pruning of hydrangea: spring and autumn

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in spring can only be done from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved (garden), prickly, serrated, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate hydrangea)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and require sanitary and cosmetic pruning. Optimal time prunings - as soon as the buds have swollen a little, there is no active movement of juices, plus such pruned shoots can be rooted. Let's tell you with an example garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophila) cannot be pruned, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, trim every fourth branch older than 3 years, especially those growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving more decorative form improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

Exception: modern varieties from the “Forever and ever”, “You&Me” series, as well as the “MiniPenny” variety, which blooms on the shoots of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past winter.

• Petiolate hydrangea is lightly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree-like and paniculate)

These species, which bloom on young shoots (current season), are pruned every year before the buds open. Best moment: mid-end of March (as soon as the snow has melted). Annual formative pruning is required, since if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea tree is the first to wake up. The shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative shape of the bush, shoots that are weak and growing inward are pruned.
2. Hydrangea paniculata needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Adviсe

• To thin out the bush, remove completely every year old, weak and inward-growing shoots.
• Trim frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush using special pruning: cut all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level (“under the stump”) or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative appearance of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, faded inflorescences of hydrangeas must be cut off so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.

Standard form

Hydrangea paniculata can be grown as a tree - a low standard. Select one of the most developed shoots on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cutting, and cut off the rest. Then prune this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in subsequent years, pinch the top of the shoot, and new shoots are removed completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of the standard form of paniculata hydrangea

Caring for hydrangea in autumn and preparing for winter

After flowering, caring for hydrangea in the fall consists of removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Tree hydrangea does not need to be covered for the winter; mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Zone, the Moscow region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up large-leaved hydrangea, replant it in pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 °C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the “pruning” section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, you can get by with hilling and mulching.

Preparing for winter and covering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Because leaves and flowers large leaf hydrangea die from light frosts at night; preparations for winter begin in mid-late October (after the first frost).

• Garden paniculata and large-leaved hydrangea must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, the bush is covered with earth, and the tree trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, pine needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And a box (box) is placed on top of the bush.
3. After the end of spring frosts (April) winter shelter disassemble and do trimming.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter over it (“hut”) 8-12 cm higher than it and pour dry leaves inside it.

Preparing hydrangea for winter Sheltering hydrangeas for the winter Top layer of winter cover for hydrangeas

During short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter for large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before night frosts arrive, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will begin to rot. Leave only the flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all the branches on the bush approximately 3-4 pieces each same size in separate bundles with elastic material (elastic band, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal brackets (electrodes, thick wire). You need to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties they become very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the start of cold weather (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material(burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leaf soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled with very little.
6. Place arcs over the plant and pull the covering material again, and place a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no increased humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not pruned, but are simply brought into the house for the winter in pots or covered with earth and additionally covered for the winter with an 11-16 cm layer of peat, dry leaves, pine needles or sawdust.

When can you open hydrangeas after winter?

In the spring you need to remove the winter cover from the hydrangea the right time to prevent damping off of the shoots.

1. In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, rake out the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and stable warmth sets in, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

Approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Winter hardiness of hydrangea

Now large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in central Russia and in the Moscow region, the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to different microclimates.

The plant can withstand temperatures down to -23 °C, and the most winter-hardy are tree, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The plant's winter hardiness increases if it receives a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (usually in closed ground).

1. HOW TO FIGHT Powdery Mildew? INSTRUCTIONS, PRODUCTS AND FUNGICIDES.
2. HOW TO FIGHT APHIS? RULES OF FIGHT AND THE BEST DRUGS!

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for the lack of flowering.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive fertilizing, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during the active growing season (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter cold and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to prune it correctly - the “Pruning” section.
3. Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, flowering deteriorates and is shortened.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, spray it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg/liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more widespread and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g/10 liters of water). To change color, you need to carry out 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, they begin to water 50-70 days before flowering.

After this, white or pink flowers (weakly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use it carefully. The price of 100 grams of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie into small bundles and hang with flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a potted plant. In the fall it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and moved to a cool place (+4-6), and in late February - early March it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the tree trunk: sedum, mossy saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. PROPAGATION OF GARDEN HYDRENSA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENSA WITH PHOTOS AND NAMES!

We wish that flowers lift your spirits and make you a little happier!

The garden blooms with unusual colors in the spring, and this continues until autumn. This hydrangea blooms throughout the endless summer and gives pleasure with its appearance and aroma. Planting and caring for garden hydrangea in the open ground will not require any special knowledge or expense, because it grows and reproduces well. And if you select varieties based on color and size, combined with other plants, you will have a lot of fun all summer long. Hydrangea is recognized as the queen of the garden!

When to plant hydrangea: mastering planting rules

When choosing this flower as a decoration for your garden, you will not need complex and time-consuming pruning procedures or greenhouse wisdom. The most important thing is to choose the right place for planting, water it abundantly and apply fertilizing on time. Hydrangea should be planted in open ground in a sunny and windless place. This flower does not like shaded places. Planting in open ground should occur in May or September.

How to plant hydrangea correctly to get a lush bush

At the site where hydrangeas are planted, dig a hole in the ground half a meter deep and approximately 60-70 cm in diameter. When planting and growing several bushes in the garden, a distance of about one and a half meters should be laid between them. The plant, if properly cared for, grows and occupies a decent area. The recesses are filled in special composition, consisting of 1 part sand, 1 part peat, 2 parts soil, 2 parts humus. Add fertilizer containing urea, potassium sulfide, superphosphate and humus.

This is important! You should not add lime to the mixture to feed the roots of the flower - this will destroy the fragile plant.

When planting a bush, you do not need to deeply bury the root collar - it should be slightly below the surface level. The plant requires abundant watering.

Beginners are often interested in what year the bush blooms after planting. We answer: when proper landing and caring for hydrangea, it will bloom next year. But in the first season, it is recommended to pick off the flowers so that the plant gains strength, grows and gets stronger for the next flowering.

How to care for hydrangea in the garden

This is an easy-to-care plant. The main measures come down to abundant watering, periodically loosening the soil around the bush, weeding and applying fertilizers according to a schedule. If you mulch the bushes with sawdust or peat mixture when planting, you won’t have to water them often. Peat and sawdust retain moisture for a long time, which is sufficient for the development of a closed root system.

A perennial shrub requires proper pruning. Prune it before the growing season begins. You need to prune hydrangeas in the garden to get rid of old shoots, leaving young and vigorous ones. Fresh shoots only need to be shortened to 4-5 buds. Remove faded inflorescences periodically. Bushes planted on the site 5-7 years ago should be pruned to stumps, which will then give strength to new shoots.

How to plant hydrangea: mastering fertilizing and fertilizers

Planting hydrangeas in soil rich in fertilizers will allow you not to worry about applying fertilizers and fertilizing for the first 2 years.

Then the rules for planting and caring for hydrangeas in the open ground suggest the following:

• in mid-spring it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium and nitrogen-containing fertilizers to the base of each bush;
• it is necessary to feed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate for the second time a season during the period of swelling of the buds;
• During the summer, this honey plant is fed several more times with a solution of cow chicken droppings.

This is important! Excess nitrogen in root feeding can cause the inflorescences to change color to a pale green hue.

About methods of reproduction

Along with other shrubs perennial plants, this miracle bush propagates vegetatively using cuttings, dividing the rhizome, rooting cuttings and sowing seeds.

When propagated by cuttings in mid-summer, young shoots not yet covered with bark are cut off and rooted in a special turf. The soil composition includes coarse sand and peat. It is advisable to add crushed mossy sphagnum to the soil for greater looseness and moisture retention. The cuttings are planted with a slight slope every 5-6 cm and the temperature (+17+20C) and humidity are strictly monitored. After a month and a half, the shoots with roots are planted at the selected planting site and provide all of the above care measures.

When dividing a bush, it is important that young shoots have 3-4 buds. The rhizome is carefully divided, and the shoots are planted in the prepared place in the garden.

Hydrangea propagates in the garden using layering: young shoots from a common bush are pressed to the ground in a place where a hole has been dug in advance (up to 20 cm) and dug in. For a tighter connection, the elastic shoot is sometimes fixed with staples. To speed up the process of root formation, it is recommended to slightly cut the shoot in the area where it will be buried. The new formation requires abundant watering. As the roots develop, the connecting link is cut, and the young bush is planted in its designated place.

About possible diseases and pests

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests. But it is also susceptible to infection. Downy mildew, chlorosis, spider mites and leaf aphids- these are the most common ailments of garden hydrangea.

Have the leaves lost their natural color or become lighter? This is chlorosis, which develops due to excess lime or humus in the ground. Add potassium nitrate and copper sulfate to the watering, and alternate these two solutions every two days to the third.

Downy mildew appears when air humidity is high. Treatment of plant leaves will help get rid of the disease. copper sulfate with the addition of laundry soap.

Garlic tincture is not capable of defeating an army of aphids. It is prepared like this: garlic (200 g) is crushed and infused in a bucket of water for 2 days, then added laundry soap(40 gr.). This solution is sprayed on the bushes once a week until the pests are completely destroyed.

Varietal and species classification

The plant is rightfully considered the favorite among all other country garden flowers. A long flowering period of 4 months until October, various shades and shapes of inflorescences create a wonderful image for this plant and make it desirable for owners country houses, summer cottages, designers who successfully use the advantages of shrubs in creating landscapes.

The flowers are shaped like balls or tassels; the petals are white, lilac, red, pale pink and even two-colored. The most popular in the Moscow region, and throughout the country, is the tree form. This bush is unpretentious, easy to care for and propagate, and is recommended for cultivation even by beginners. Up to 30 varieties of this flower are known. But the most popular varieties among land owners are:

• “Anabelle” is a bush with lush color, reaching a height of up to 1.5 m. Its snow-white spherical inflorescences bloom from the beginning of summer and bloom until September. Remains green until winter. Adapted to the conditions of our winters, does not require insulation.
• "Grandiflora" has large snow-white flowers, the flowering period is from June to October.
• "Sterilis" with its pale green and white hemispheres from mid-summer to October cannot but delight homeowners with its lush color and aroma.

• "BellaAnna" is a new product among other varieties. The flowers are spherical in shape; hydrangea bushes in the garden grow up to 3 m in diameter. It comes with pale pink and purple flowers, the flowering period is until October.

• "Invincibel Spirit" is attractive with a delicate pinkish tint of petals.

Paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas are very popular. Their flowers have an original shape and bloom long period, may change color. The plant is frost-resistant and tolerates even the most harsh winters north of the country. These include varieties:

• "Vanilla Fraise", which has delicate white-pinkish petals;
• "Limelight" blooms only in autumn, the flowers are large, of a delicate lemon shade;
• 'PinkyWinky' has attractive pale red petals.

Hydrangea in landscape design projects

Excellent compositions are created by modern designers using various forms and colors. Taking into account the climatic conditions of the territory of Russia, professionals advise choosing tree, paniculate and petiolate hydrangea varieties for planting.

Experts do not recommend using flowers in compositions with yellowish, red, or orange hues. The advantages of bushes will be successfully highlighted by plants that bloom in soft blue, conifers, leaves, the cereal family, junipers, and clematis.

This plant is deservedly recognized as the basis of a beautiful garden. With good care and cultivation, hydrangea within many years will be a treat for the eyes.

Planting garden hydrangea and caring for it have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.

Garden hydrangea - types and varieties

There are many types and varieties of this ornamental shrub. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are some that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period vary greatly and depend on the variety.

The most common types:

• Large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers can have different shades. Height – 2 m. Requires shelter in winter, tolerates maximum temperatures up to - 10°C
• Chereshkova. A type of vine. Blooms with white and pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will spread along the ground. Good option for gazebos and arches.
• Tree-like. The flowers are snow-white. Height – up to 3 m. It looks very impressive, but freezes in winter. The advantage is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires heavy spring pruning.
• Paniculata. Blooms from July to late autumn dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. The height of the bush is 3-4 m. An unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.

Based on these species, many different varieties have been created, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type, hydrangeas can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first variant.

Features of cultivation

Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream tint. Soil with a high alkali content gives flowers a pink or lilac color, while acids give them a blue color.

Bright lighting is very important for shrubs, but scorching sun rays are detrimental to it, as is deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime and sun the rest of the time.

It is important not to overfeed seedlings with organic matter. They will grow green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.

Planting in open ground

Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, before landing, you need to carefully think through all the nuances.

Preparing the site and soil

The planting site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks. The soil should be acidic and well moistened. Acidity can be adjusted independently using special preparations. Depending on the variety, flowers can grow in partial shade or sun. Best place for planting - light partial shade; plants will not bloom in strong shade.

The hole should be small: 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. If group planting is planned, then the distance between the bushes should be at least 90-100 cm. Sand and fertilizers are added to the hole, mixing well with the soil. The next layer is a little peat.

How and when to plant?

Planting is done in early spring or autumn. It depends on the climate of each region. In cold areas, it is better to plant bushes in the spring so that they can produce new roots, become stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in the spring, then annual shoots need to be shortened by at least 3 buds.

It is advisable to shorten the roots of the seedling slightly. When planting, you need to make sure that the root collar is not covered with soil. The planted bush is watered abundantly and mulched with peat. When watering, you need to make sure that a strong stream of water does not wash away the soil near the roots.

As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of formation of new roots is in full swing.

Caring for phantom hydrangea

Hydrangea Phantom is one of the most beautiful of the paniculate family. It blooms luxuriantly throughout the season with long panicles and exudes a pleasant aroma. The variety is resistant to root diseases and frost, and quickly recovers after freezing. The bush can grow in one place for many years without requiring replanting.

Watering and fertilizing

"Hydrangea" translated from Latin means "longing for water." The flower is very moisture-loving, so the soil should never be allowed to dry out. Watering should be regular and plentiful. As soon as top layer When the soil dries out a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, since the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.

Watering – best time for feeding. In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilizer, and during budding – potassium and phosphorus.

It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid. The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in spring-summer period Once every 3-4 weeks you need to loosen the soil to improve aeration.

How to replant and prune?

The plant tolerates pruning well. If it is not pruned, the bush will lose its decorative effect, and flowering will be weak. It is best to do this procedure in the spring, when the buds swell. If the bushes are too old, they can be easily renewed by cutting them almost to the root.

All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:

• To the first category includes those species and varieties whose flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year (petiolate, spiny, large-leaved, serrated). They do not need any special pruning; it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
• To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require severe pruning; all shoots must be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.

When the hydrangea is about to bloom for the first time, you need to immediately cut off all the buds so that the plant gains strength and can bloom profusely. next year. Formative pruning of the bush for 5 years will help you get a beautiful small tree.

Phantom hydrangea should only be replanted in extreme cases. It grows well in the same place for years. Therefore, replanting is justified if an adult bush needs to be divided into parts and planted in other places.

Flower care in autumn

Caring for garden hydrangea in the fall involves trimming the inflorescences, and you need to remove at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that suddenly falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes needs to be hilled high, and the ground around them needs to be mulched well. This will protect the superficial root system from frost.

How does hydrangea winter?

In the middle zone, the shrub tolerates winter well. But to be on the safe side, it’s still better to cover it with spruce branches. IN northern regions For the winter, the flower is placed in a room with a positive temperature, since severe frosts could destroy him.

Sometimes the bushes are carefully tied up, wrapped in spunbond and a mesh frame is built near them. The space between the covering material and the mesh is filled with dry leaves. With the first breath of warmth, the leaves are removed, but the spunbond is removed only after a constant positive temperature has been established.

How does garden hydrangea propagate?

The easiest way to propagate hydrangea is from cuttings. They are cut in the spring from annual green shoots. It is necessary to cut at a right angle. The length of the cuttings is no more than 12 cm. The leaves are removed from the lower part, treated with preparations to stimulate growth and planted in a greenhouse or boxes.

A good option is to propagate the flower by division. This can be done both in spring and autumn. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into 3-4 parts so that each has several renewal buds. The blanks are planted in pre-marked places.

You can also propagate hydrangea by layering without much effort. Young shoots are carefully bent to the ground, fixed and buried in soil, leaving the top (about 20 cm). Already next spring or autumn, cuttings with roots can be separated from the mother plant and replanted.

Sometimes shrubs are propagated by seeds or grafting, but these are too labor-intensive methods. Knowing how garden hydrangea reproduces, you can choose the appropriate method in advance and do it in a timely manner.

Protection from diseases and pests

Hydrangeas rarely get sick, and the lion's share of the disease is transmitted by seedlings. For this reason, you should only buy new plants from trusted nurseries. Other causes of disease include dense plantings, lack of nutrients and high humidity air.

Many fungal diseases can be combated with copper oxychloride.

One of the most common diseases is chlorosis. Due to a lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green. The drugs Agricol and Brexil are used for treatment. As a preventive measure, plants need to be fed with iron-containing fertilizers in a timely manner.

Use in landscape design

Hydrangea looks great both in single plantings and in group plantings. You just need to plan in advance its location at a decent distance from other plants. Over time, the bushes grow greatly and require a lot of space.

The flower can be planted as a soloist in the front garden if it is located on the north side of the house. When choosing hydrangeas for companions in a mixborder, you need to take into account their characteristics. Astilbe, hosta, and cuff have similar requirements for moisture, light and soil acidity. If the area is large, you can plant a composition of several bushes. Their spreading form will create an expressive accent in the garden. Often these shrubs are used to limit areas of the garden.

Hydrangeas work well with a variety of garden design styles, so they can be grown by anyone.

Many of us grow not only fruit and vegetable plants in our summer cottages, but also grow flowers - petunias, daffodils, tulips, lilies, clematis. And if you have a desire to add another lush flowering plant to your collection, we recommend that you read our article about paniculata hydrangea.

The natural habitats of this hydrangea are the southern coast of Sakhalin, the islands of Japan and China. There it can reach ten meters in height. It also grows remarkably well in our latitudes and has adapted to both heat and frost. But its height is usually no more than two or three meters. At compassionate care the bush adds 25 centimeters per year. Even if some of the shoots are damaged during harsh winters, this hydrangea will quickly recover. The shoots are brown-red, grow straight, sometimes spread out, and from the second year the stems become woody. This representative of the hydrangea family looks very picturesque from mid-summer until the October frosts, when wonderful flowers open in its panicle inflorescences, reaching a length of up to 35 centimeters. They can be of two types: sterile (about three centimeters, do not fall off for a long time); bisexual (they are smaller in size, after pollination occurs, they quickly lose their petals). The first flowers on paniculate hydrangea appear at the age of three years. In many varieties of hydrangea paniculata, the color of the petals changes during flowering. They may be creamy at first, then turn pink, and then turn red or green. It happens that there are so many flowers that the branches bend and even break under their weight if supports are not placed in time. The leaves of this plant are bright, large (up to 15 centimeters in length), elliptical in shape, with a pointed tip and small teeth along the edge. They have a pleasant velvety texture and pubescence. The veins are strongly depressed. All branches are abundantly covered with leaf plates located close to each other. The age of these centenarians can reach up to 60 years. Hydrangea can also adapt to unfavorable environmental conditions, for example, if there are increased levels of gas and smoke in the air. Which hydrangea to choose? First, we will give the names of varieties of paniculata hydrangea, which have long been successfully grown by gardeners: "Limelight" - grows like a neat shrub, maintaining its shape even without supports. Height within two meters. In partial shade the flowers have a lime tint. If this plant is constantly exposed to sunlight, the flowers will be white, and in the final stage they will turn slightly pink. In autumn, the leaves turn from green to purple. A plant of this variety needs loose soil with an acidic reaction environment, where lime has not been added. “Kyushu” has a spreading, fan-shaped crown, the height of the plant is about three meters. The white-pink flowers emit a pleasant aroma. The color of the leaf petioles is reddish. "Matilda" - the height of the plant is within two meters, and the width is about three. During long flowering, it is interesting to observe how the color of fragrant flowers changes - from cream to pink-green. “Grandiflora” pleases with large pyramidal “panicles”, but they bloom a little later than other varieties. At first their color is creamy, then white, later a pink tint appears, but in the fall the color is reddish-green. "Floribunda" - shoots up to two meters, decorated with creamy-white lush inflorescences. The flowers are large and are on long stalks. Gradually, other varieties are spreading throughout gardens and parks: "Tardiva" - this three-meter bush blooms from August to October. Looks good in group compositions. At first, the cone-shaped “panicles” are creamy-white, but towards the end of flowering they turn pink-purple. “Vanilla Fries” - by the beginning of autumn, the white-pink inflorescences become crimson, and in October they turn purple, while the top remains white. This wonderful variety was created by Jean Reno, a breeder from France. “Fries Melba” is another unpretentious and frost-resistant “brainchild” of the Frenchman Renault. Strong shoots (up to two meters), supporting large inflorescences without support, where white and crimson colors contrast. "Candelight" is a dense, profusely flowering bush, the height of which is no more than 150 centimeters. Conical inflorescences initially have yellow-green flowers, which then change color to golden-cream, and by October to reddish. "Brussels Lace" - fruiting white flowers are so delicate that the bush is compared to the beauty of a bride. Wine-colored shoots, less than two meters. "Baby Lace" is easy to grow and resistant to powdery mildew. Its height is no more than 120 centimeters. The inflorescences are small (up to 15 centimeters), initially their color is white, then turning into pink tones. "Pink Diamond" - over time, the inflorescences become almost red. “Pinky Winky” - the color of the “panicles” is first white, then pink-red, purple-pink. The stems are strong. In autumn the leaf color turns purple-violet. "Unique" - has fragrant snow-white wide-conical inflorescences that turn pink in the fall. "Diamond Rouge" - the inflorescences are white at first, and cherry-red in the fall. "Silver Dollar" - his landscape designers placed in parks next to others ornamental plants. The inflorescences are greenish-white, turning silvery-pink in autumn. "Mega Pearl" - looks good both on the lawn and in combination with other bushes. “Dolly” - its “height” is just over 150 centimeters; white inflorescences flaunt on strong stems, turning pink by autumn. “Sunday Frize”, translated as “Strawberry Ice Cream”, is a compact bush, no more than a meter in height. The inflorescence consists of sterile greenish-white flowers, then the lower part of the inflorescence changes to a strawberry color. "Weems Red" - on strong shoots, the height of which is up to 180 centimeters, large inflorescences look amazing, some of them are 35 centimeters long. From June to September, you will see them first creamy, then pink, then turning into a deeper pink, and finally wine red. "Bombshell" - the entire dwarf shrub is covered with white flowers. “Bobo” - does not grow more than 70 centimeters in height; already at the end of June the first flowers open on it in dense cone-shaped inflorescences. At first their color is white or with a lemon tint, then pink. “Little Lime” - greenish flowers open on one and a half meter shoots, which turn pink in the fall. “Phantom” - against the background of velvety dark green foliage, large cream inflorescences stand out, in which most of the flowers are sterile. A pink “blush” is noticeable at the ends of the inflorescences. “Polar Bear” is a frost-resistant bush with an abundance of snow-white “panicles”. Varieties that need a lot of sunlight and moisture: “Unique”, “Levana”, “Diamond Rouge”, “Phantom”, “Diamantino”. The most suitable varieties of paniculata hydrangea for the Moscow region are: “Bobo”, “Grandiflora”, “Vanilla Fries”, “Pinky Winky”, “Limelight”, “Tardiva”, “Kiushu”, “Polar Bear”, “Mega Pearl”, “ Phantom", "Fries Melba". Select the best varieties Hydrangea paniculata is difficult, they are all good in their own way. Let us only note that the varieties bloom amazingly - “Great Star”, “Vanilla Fries”, “Early Sensation”, “Magical Candle”, “Diamond Rouge”, “Magical Fire”, “Fries Melba”. Let's start planting paniculata hydrangea It is very important to choose the right place for the seedling on the site. Some varieties grow well in partial shade, while others need plenty of sun. As for the soil, it should be clay or loamy, but always fertile. Sandy soils Not suitable for hydrangeas. Most hydrangeas require an acidic reaction of the environment, then the color of the flowers will be bright, and a lot of “panicles” will form. To acidify the soil, you can take half-rotted needles (from spruce or pine), brown peat, and sawdust. Dolomite flour, ash, and lime are not used for this crop. To retain moisture under the crown longer, ground covers, such as sedum and saxifrage, are placed near the hydrangea. Paniculata hydrangea is planted in open ground in early spring or September. It is still advisable to buy paniculata hydrangea in the spring, then it will take root very quickly and begin to actively grow. This can be done at flower exhibitions, fairs, nurseries, garden stores and centers. When planting this plant in the fall, there is a risk that a rapid cooling will not allow the hydrangea to settle down and take root in its new place. Make the hole for planting paniculate hydrangea wide (at least 70 centimeters in diameter) and deep (about 50 centimeters). Add a portion of fertilizers (mineral or organic) to the hole. Pour a mound of fertile soil and moisten it. When the water is absorbed, spread the roots on the mound, and then fill them with the remaining soil so as not to accidentally deepen the root collar. It should remain level with the surface of the earth. Compact the area under the hydrangea and water it generously. If you have several seedlings, it is recommended to leave a distance of 150 centimeters between them (for tall plants) or 70 centimeters (for compact and dwarf forms). Recommendations for further care of paniculate hydrangea Water your hydrangea regularly and deeply. If the weather is hot, without precipitation, then at least twice a week. Do not allow the soil under the hydrangea to crack; loosen the soil shallowly after rainfall or watering, while pulling out weeds. Mulching with pine needles or peat chips will help retain moisture in the soil layer longer. It is advisable to fertilize every ten days, alternating organic with mineral complexes. Organic matter is diluted slurry or chicken. You can add a little nettle infusion fermented in a bucket to the water for irrigation. IN flower shops They sell special fertilizers intended specifically for hydrangeas, in which all dosages are adjusted. In August all recharges stop. If fertilizing is rare or not done at all, then few inflorescences are formed, and the color of the petals turns out to be faded. To make the color brighter and more expressive, you can use mixtures for hydrangeas created on the basis of alum. Trimming too important element caring for hydrangea. Let's look at this in more detail. How to prune paniculate hydrangea? Annual pruning for paniculata hydrangea is very important, as it helps the bush look lush and bloom profusely. In autumn, it is necessary to cut off all the “panicles”, as well as weak and old shoots, branches, the growth of which is directed towards the inside of the crown. From 10 to 12 of the strongest shoots are left for wintering. Spring pruning must be done before the buds begin to open. Adult shoots are usually cut to 2-3 buds, and young stems to 3-5 buds. As a result, the bush will gain strength and will produce an abundance of inflorescences by August. In the spring, do not forget to shorten frozen shoots and those that look weak or diseased. For gardeners who do not prune paniculate hydrangea, it may not produce flowers. If your bush is old and you want to rejuvenate it, then cut off all the shoots to form a “stump”. The bush should be restored within two years. Possible difficulties when growing paniculate hydrangea It happens that a gardener diligently moisturizes his pet, but the leaves on it still droop, the bush looks lethargic. It is likely that the soil and roots located in its upper layer are overheating under your hydrangea. Be sure to mulch the soil with peat, chopped bark or wood chips. Another nuisance is yellowing of the foliage on hydrangeas. At the same time, the color of the veins does not change - they are green. These are signs of chlorosis. And it occurs if the soil environment is alkaline. The symptoms will go away when you acidify the soil by feeding the hydrangea with iron sulfate. There are serious diseases that can disturb hydrangeas that are in the shade or heavily thickened: Gray rot - it is characterized by rapidly growing brown spots. In inclement, rainy weather, gray mycelium can be seen on such spots; spores of the causative fungus can quickly spread to other crops garden plot. Therefore, immediately, as soon as you noticed listed symptoms, take measures to save the hydrangea and prevent the spread of the disease to other plantings. Powdery mildew - begins with the appearance of a gray coating on some leaves. Gradually there is more of it, it darkens. Other leaves are also affected, which then wither and leave the hydrangea. If powdery mildew gets on young shoots, then purple spots are noticeable on them, and these parts of the plant die off. Such shoots are unlikely to survive the winter. White rot - hydrangea roots suffer from it, as a result of which it does not receive necessary nutrition from the soil, withers and may die. Tracheomycosis wilt - damage begins from the root system. Soon the fungus spreads to the entire vascular system of the plant. Some of the shoots turn yellow and wither, and all this can lead to the death of the bush. You can try to cope with these diseases with the help of special preparations called fungicides. What does drying and falling leaves on a bush indicate? First, pay attention to the underside sheet plates. A cobweb is a sure indicator that spider mites have settled on the hydrangea. Actellik is suitable for combating them. There are other pests on hydrangeas: leaf-eating snails; aphids sucking juices from leaves; bedbugs, pennies, which also suck out vital juices; weevils, leaf beetles, leaf rollers feeding on foliage; root-eating nematodes. You can try for these pests folk remedies or special insecticides. How does hydrangea winter? Now many wonderful varieties have been created that winter well without any shelter. But young seedlings should still be covered with spruce “paws”. If you live in regions where winters are harsh, then it is better to play it safe and cover even mature hydrangea paniculata bushes in the fall. How can this species be propagated? There are several possible ways propagation of hydrangea paniculata: seeds; layering; dividing a bush that has grown over the years; cuttings. Let us immediately warn you that hydrangea has very tiny seeds, their germination rate is low, and the grade may be lost. Such a seedling blooms only after four years. Typically, gardeners resort to cuttings. Cuttings (or pinching off) of hydrangea paniculata cuttings are carried out in June (from the 10th to the 15th) from annual shoots (ripe, at this time buds appear on the plant). If the cuttings were cut in the spring or autumn months, then their rooting is poor. There must be at least three pairs of buds on the cutting. You need to leave a distance of two centimeters from the lower bud, and only then make a cut. On short shoots, the top cuts are not made. But if the shoot is long, then the upper cut should be made so that there remains another five centimeters above the upper bud. The lower leaves must be removed, and it is permissible to leave one or two leaves at the top, cutting them off in the middle. Keep the cuttings in water with a growth stimulant (for example, Heteroauxin) for several hours (or maybe a day). Fill the containers with a mixture of peat and sand. Bury each cutting into the substrate by three centimeters. Cover the cuttings with clear plastic cups. For rooting to be successful, keep the substrate in the container moist. The cups are removed daily to allow the cuttings to be watered and sprinkled. You will notice signs indicating rooting in about a month. For the winter, such containers are moved to a cool room where they will not freeze. Such cuttings can already be transplanted to their designated places next year, in August. If a small bush tries to produce buds at this time, you will have to cut them off so that the plant does not waste energy on flowering, but uses them to prepare for winter. Such seedlings are covered in the fall; winter hardiness will come to them after flowering (after four years). This hydrangea is propagated by layering as follows. Next to an adult bush, make a groove 20 centimeters deep. Bend an annual shoot there, first making small cuts in the place where the roots may grow. The layer must be attached to the ground with a bracket. The top part should be vertical. Fill the groove so that the top remains uncovered. Water this place periodically. A year later, the grown young growth can be cut off from the adult bush and moved to another place. If you have already developed a good bush that you want to divide into two or three parts, then dig it up completely in the spring (possibly at the very beginning of autumn), and then carry out the division. At the same time, several buds should remain on each part, from which renewal will begin. Landscape designers often combine paniculata and tree hydrangea, creating spectacular compositions. These plants are combined with conifers, lilacs, spirea, irises, peonies, roses, astilbes, mountain weeds, and anemones. In parks and public gardens, hydrangea is alternated with plantings of birch, maple, and willow. Hydrangea paniculata, photo

Hydrangea is on the list of gardeners' favorite flowering shrubs. The gorgeous inflorescences that decorate the bush from mid-summer to late autumn have a fascinating effect on a person. Hydrangea is very thermophilic, and only a few of its dozens of varieties can be planted in the central zone of our country. Among them - garden paniculata hydrangea. Planting and care in open ground is today's topic on our website about.

Hydrangea paniculata: basic information

In their natural habitat (Japan, China), hydrangea bushes reach 4 meters in height. In our conditions it is possible to grow a plant from 1 to 2 meters. The inflorescences of paniculate garden hydrangea have a beautiful pyramid shape. They can be white, pink or purple. The ability of flowers to change their original color is remarkable.

Hydrangea paniculata is different rapid growth, shade tolerance and frost resistance. True, in order to prevent the buds from disappearing, the bush should be covered for the winter. Interestingly, after planting one of the varieties of paniculate garden hydrangea, depending on the care (pruning), you can have either a bush or a small standard tree.

Paniculata hydrangea has many varieties. The most famous of them are presented below in photographs. Having chosen the variety you like for planting in your garden or summer cottage, do not rush to get down to business. First you need to clarify whether your plant is suitable garden soil and the place you plan to allocate for it. In addition, you should find out all the features of planting paniculate hydrangea and caring for it. You can find out about this by reading further.

Hydrangea Grandifora - often found in open ground in our latitudes
Variety Diamont Rouge
Hydrangea paniculata garden variety Unique
Hortense Kyushu

Features of planting hydrangea paniculata

Suitable soil for paniculate hydrangea. This flowering shrub will feel great if the roots are in fertile clayey acidic soil. If it is alkaline, the bush will develop quite slowly and have pale flowers. How to make soil more acidic? By adding peat, sawdust or pine needles to it.

The right place to plant paniculata garden hydrangea. All varieties of this type of shrub love partial shade. This does not mean that it should be planted under trees, but if it is located in an area completely exposed to direct sunlight, the shrub will not look as chic as it could.

Hydrangea paniculata planting period. It is best to carry out this activity in the spring. If you live in a region with mild winters, then autumn is just as suitable. But this is provided that it is warm.

Features of planting seedlings. At the time of transplantation, the paniculata hydrangea seedling should be 3 or 4 years old. The selected place must be completely cleaned and dug up. Carefully removing all roots will simplify further care. For single plantings, dig holes 40-50 cm deep and 50-70 cm wide. You need to focus on the volume of the root system, although if the roots are freed from the ground, they can be trimmed. To create a hydrangea hedge, dig a trench of the same depth. Then everything is simple: place the roots in the hole, cover them with soil, compact them and water them abundantly. Immediately after planting, the bushes are pruned, leaving 3-5 buds on each branch.

Rules for caring for paniculata hydrangea in open ground

Watering the bushes

To keep the inflorescences lush and bright, hydrangeas need to be watered frequently. It is best to create conditions for the shrub in which the soil will never dry out. Good help mulch from peat or compost plays a role in this.

Treatment of garden soil

Hydrangea care will be of poor quality if you do not regularly loosen the soil around the bush. This is necessary to retain moisture and allow air to penetrate to the roots. Remember that the root system of the shrub is quite extensive. Naturally, weeds should not be allowed to grow near the hydrangea.

Feeding hydrangea paniculata

If there is a lack of nutrients in the soil, you should not count on beautiful and abundant flowering Hydrangea paniculata. That's why special attention needs to be paid to feeding. So, in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season, watering the bush with a bucket of water with the addition of 20 g of urea gives a good result. Many gardeners also praise nettle infusion as a spring fertilizer hydrangeas.

Hydrangea really likes mullein diluted with water.

It can be applied under the bush every two weeks. When buds appear, to stimulate flowering, two feedings are carried out using mineral fertilizers, keeping a break between them of at least 2 weeks.

Pruning hydrangea paniculata

As already noted, the first pruning of the bush should be carried out immediately after planting. When should this be done next? During the flowering period, the bush should not be touched, so you should wait until autumn to prune. First of all, you need to cut off all the dried inflorescences. In addition, in the fall you can thin out the bush if it is very overgrown.

The next pruning is carried out in the fall before the buds open. Now you should remove all broken branches damaged by frost. Pursuing an aesthetic goal, you can cut off shoots that are growing incorrectly. It is also worth shortening annual shoots by a third. A good way to rejuvenate old bush hydrangeas - cut off all shoots to the base in spring.

Sheltering hydrangeas for the winter

Without shelter, the buds on paniculata hydrangea may freeze. In the southernmost regions, it is enough to simply hill the bush high. But where winters are cold, more radical measures are needed. It is best to carefully bend the shoots, secure them with staples, and then cover them with peat, cover them with spruce branches and cover them with film.

Hydrangea propagation

The most popular way to propagate hydrangea in open ground is cuttings. It is best to prepare cuttings in early June from the lower shoots on the trunk. Each of them should have at least 3 buds, the optimal length is 10 cm. The cut should be at a distance of 2 cm from the lower bud. They need to be soaked in a growth stimulant for two days. Then they are planted in containers with peat and sand, covered with plastic or glass containers and care is taken to ensure that the moisture does not evaporate completely. After a month, the cuttings will begin to take root. They can be transplanted into open ground at the end of next summer.

Gardeners also often resort to propagating hydrangeas. layering. To do this, make a hole 20 cm deep near an adult bush. Next, you should bend it to it, secure it with a metal bracket and sprinkle one of the lower annual shoots with soil. The top should be vertical. In the place where roots will appear, the shoot must be cut or the bark removed in this area. You must remember to water the cuttings along with the adult bush. If rooting is successful, it can be transplanted in a year.

Mature bushes with a good root system can be propagated by divisions. It is worth digging it up for this in early spring or September. Several buds should remain on each formed part.

Now you know what garden paniculata hydrangea looks like; planting and care in open ground were described in this article. Although this ornamental shrub requires a certain, quite considerable amount of attention, these efforts always turn out to be rewarding. These gorgeous bushes in your garden will delight you just by looking at them. Garden paniculata hydrangea is a representative of the flora worthy of appearing on your plot of land.