It's funny how one thing leads to another, and that's the story with this guide. When I started planning the chaise lounge assembly, I thought about what I could use (and recommend) for cutting very sharp corners for the chair frame. When I assembled them to sell, I made the cuts freehand on a table saw, which is something I will no longer do or advise others to do.
I remembered the rafter square and how it can be used to make 90 degree cuts while holding it at work. It can also plan different angles (roof pitch) to cut freehand. Taking it one step further, I decided that if it had a moving fence, it could be mounted at any angle and used as a guide for miter cuts.
Without hesitation, I went to the workshop to start making this miter cutter. Often the first attempt at something like this doesn't quite work out, so I don't use the best materials. I found a piece of 1/2" thick plywood and drew a semicircle on it using my ray compass:
The plywood was left over from making the soffit, so it's about 10 inches wide. I set the compass to 9″ and inserted the center 3/4″ from the edge. Since this will be used for cutting sharp corners, it needs to be large enough to guide the saw correctly.
Cut it out on a band saw and sand it down to the line on the disc:
Since the fence will arc to the chosen angle, there must be a way to lock it in place. To do this, I drew two more arcs about 1-1/4″ from the edge to define a 3/8″ wide gap.
This leaves enough room on the edge to mark the scale, and it's still wide enough to not be flimsy:
A 3/8″ hole was drilled at each end of the arc and cut using a jigsaw. Again, I left enough material at the ends so that it wouldn't break easily:
The pivot point is drilled out to 3/16″ and the whole thing is sanded down to make it smoother and easier to mark the scale on:
The fence is then made from a piece of fir about 12 inches long, 1 inch wide and about 3/4 inch thick. The end is marked round using a 3/8″ washer and the center point is drilled using a 1/8″ pivot screw bit:
The end is rounded on the grinder disc:
With the fence temporarily installed, the location of the locking handle is marked and drilled using a 5/16″ bit:
The 1/4″ T-nut is pressed in with my wood vice , and the fence is ready for installation:
The locking handle is just a 2″ long 1/4″ bolt glued to a plywood handle with a pair of locknuts underneath to hold it in and out:
The pivot screw is a #10 flat head screw, and the flared underside of the screw centers it in the slightly enlarged hole when tightened:
To assemble the scale of the device with which I will cut wooden parts at an angle, I use my homemade protractor:
To separate the segments by 5 degrees, I cut a piece of wood to the proper thickness to accommodate the marks. This was trial and error, cut and repeat until it was right:
The scale is not exact, but it is close for most woodworking operations, especially the ones I have in mind.
Another way to make a scale is to enlarge the one I used for my protractor and glue it down. I figure if I did it this way it would probably take twice as long as just measuring and marking like I would have done, which with all the mess would have gotten the print the right size.
Let's test it by cutting out an angle of 30 degrees:
This works well, better than I thought! Not bad for a first try.
Here's a short video showing how I made the jig:
Here's a video of the chaise lounge assembly I did this for:
Those people who are far from carpentry often express bewilderment when they hear the word “miter box”; you can even hear chuckles and jokes about this unusual word. However, experts easily explain the meaning of this simple word.
What is it?
This word comes from several ancient roots included in many European languages. “St” - translated means “to approve, put”, “sl” - “to fold”, the ending “o” indicates that it helps to fold and connect. As an example, you can take a few words. For example, a chisel is something that helps to chisel, a drill is something that can be used to drill.
As you can see, the very meaning of the word “miter box” encrypts its use. With its help, you can make parts that stack with each other. There is also one ancient concept: “to connect in a mustache” (without flaws) - some masters translate the name of the instrument this way. The same meaning is encrypted in the more understandable word “to hang out” - to meet, connect, get together.
A miter box is an auxiliary carpentry tool designed for sawing materials at a strictly specified angle. The correct angle, as well as a neat cut, are especially important when installing finishing materials, for example, ceiling or floor plinths, baguette frames or platbands.
This convenient device is fixed to a workbench or other surface using screws, clamps or self-tapping screws - only reliable fastening can ensure the quality of the cut made.
Having mastered the miter box, any master will significantly reduce the number of defects, thereby quickly paying for this simple but necessary tool.
What is it for?
Initially, the miter box was used as a device for cutting down boards at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees. Modern tools allow you to cut the workpiece at different fixed angles. The rotating miter box allows you to adjust any cutting angle.
The need to cut at an angle arises during many carpentry works, for example, when sawing down a door frame, because a mistake can literally be expensive: you will have to purchase a new frame. But even relatively small work, such as the manufacture of frames, material for platbands and baseboards, does not allow distortions and inconsistencies.
A special hacksaw is required for this work. It differs from the usual version in its fine teeth and slight set, allowing for a narrow, neat cut.
The handle of such a saw is fixed at the top of the blade so that it is possible to use a hacksaw along the entire length.
Varieties
The design of the miter box was developed quite a long time ago. Its shape resembles a tray or box without end walls, which has a U-shaped cross-section. Slots are made in the side walls at a certain angle. Initially, the device was made of wood.
For some jobs, a hand-made tool from scraps of bars and boards with clearly defined angles is quite suitable.
You need to work with such a miter box very carefully, since you can easily saw the tool itself along with the workpiece.
The step-by-step production of a simple wooden miter box can be represented as follows:
- first of all, you need to choose an even piece of board up to 50 cm long and 10 cm wide;
- screw side boards of the same size as the base onto it with self-tapping screws;
- using a protractor, mark the side walls for the slots, make angles of 90 and 45 degrees;
- Carefully cut guide grooves in both side walls.
Modern products have become cheaper, as they are more mass-produced from plastic or polyurethane. They weigh little and are suitable for mobile repair teams.
The plastic miter box has one, but rather serious drawback - rapid wear. The slots gradually widen, and it becomes impossible to work with such a tool. However, due to the low price, it is always possible to replace a worn-out device with a new one.
Metal (aluminum) products are the most reliable and durable. Many professionals use just such tools. The only drawback of this type of product is its price.
However, with constant use, a metal miter box will quickly pay for itself.
Structurally, tools can also be divided into several groups.
- Simple. This device fixes the workpiece for sawing at a right angle and an angle of 45 degrees. It can be successfully used for sawing skirting boards, slats, platbands, baguettes and other parts. For this type of tool, a special hacksaw with a slight tooth spread is available.
- Rotary option makes it possible to rotate the hacksaw to almost any angle: from 15 to 135 degrees. This type of tool is of little use for small household work, but is very convenient in workshops, as a stationary tool that works continuously. Some inconvenience is the rather labor-intensive setting of the required angle. But if the workpieces are cut into several pieces, then this factor will not be relevant.
- Electric miter box is a circular saw mounted on a special machine with a rotating platform.
The last two types of tools will be useful for large volumes of work - they can cut several products at once. A special clamp helps to cut, for example, several pieces of floor or ceiling plinth, or products for frames.
Some models allow you to cut the corners of the workpiece for a connection called a “dovetail.”
How to use?
Before starting work, you need to prepare all the necessary tools: a miter box, a special hacksaw with fine teeth (sometimes sold complete with a miter box), a pencil, a tape measure, sandpaper.
Using a miter box requires some skill.
A typical mistake is insufficient fastening of the workpiece or the tool itself, which often leads to displacement of the material during the sawing process. In addition, loose parts and elements are a direct path to injury.
Safety precautions when working with this tool require special attention - this applies to both fixed parts and the moving hacksaw.
The workpiece is placed in the fixture so that it fits snugly against the bottom and one of the side strips. It is necessary to ensure the correct position in accordance with the required cutting angle. You need to cut to the end with a hacksaw, otherwise the end may split during the process of breaking the workpiece.
It is very convenient to cut a baguette using a miter box for finishing frames or a special ceiling baguette made of polymer materials. Since there are often decorative fillets on the outer surface, the requirements for the quality of the cut are always very high.
For a more thorough fit, you should stock up on a stationery knife - the baguette is easily processed with this tool.
The cutting principle is the same.
It is described below.
- Before cutting, you need to carefully mark the workpiece so as not to mix up the corners.
- The workpiece should be placed in the miter box so that the marked line coincides with the corresponding groove of the tool.
- Then you need to press the workpiece and cut it with a hacksaw strictly according to the mark.
- When cutting the second workpiece, you need to clearly understand how it should be joined to the first - it is important to position the molding correctly in relation to the grooves of the tool, otherwise the work will have to be redone. When you are sure that everything is installed correctly, the operations must be repeated in the same order.
In order to saw off the corners of the plinth, the miter box is installed on a workbench or table. Both adjustable plinths are placed in the miter box at once - it is important to ensure their precise fit to the opposite walls of the device.
The miter box copes well with the preparation of cable ducts. This element of the interior can be difficult to hide, and all the flaws in their installation and installation are visible. Using a miter box in this case is not difficult, and the effect will be amazing.
Nuances
At first glance, sawing a workpiece at the desired angle using a miter box is not difficult - in fact, it was invented for this purpose.
However, special requirements are placed on the hacksaw. An ordinary tool will not work for fine work - a wide set and large teeth will not give the expected effect. The cuts will be rough, and the miter box groove will gradually widen so much that the hacksaw blade will begin to “walk” in it, after which you will have to purchase a new device.
A miter box is a tool for cutting workpieces at a certain angle. These blanks can be made of wood and plastic. Most often it is used for cutting door frames, baseboards, and wooden blocks.
You won’t be able to manually cut a block at an angle of 45 degrees, which is why such a tool was invented - a miter box.
They come in different widths and lengths, depending on the size of the workpiece.
For example, the photo below is the most common one.
One of the inexpensive models, it can be used to cut workpieces measuring 65mm in width and 35mm in height. If the workpiece is higher, then it will no longer be possible to insert the saw into the grooves.
It is possible to cut at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees.
This is suitable for small thin bars and narrow trims. The kit includes a simple saw with a small, non-hardened tooth.
This option is quite suitable for infrequent household work; the plastic is quite flimsy.
Approximate price for 2013 – 120 rub.
If you use a miter box all the time, then it is better to take an option that is more expensive, but of better quality. 
The miter box itself is noticeably wider; you can cut workpieces 100mm wide and 52mm high. Unlike the first option, it is possible to cut not only at an angle, but also at an angle, 
those. It will be possible to make an angle in a different plane. The plastic is much thicker, making the body more rigid and reliable. For convenience, it can be attached to the table with bolts or screws. There are two holes for this.
There are markings on the body for convenience.
The set includes a saw with a hardened tooth, a powerful rubberized handle that fits perfectly in the hand. To prevent the canvas from bending, there is a stiffener on top of it.
Estimated cost 350 rub.
Another option. With eccentric clamps that allow you to fasten workpieces of any shape, not just rectangular, even, but even round. 
There are angles of 22.5 degrees, 45 and 90, and you can also cut at an angle.
Width 110mm, height 75mm – for quite serious workpieces.
Made of thick plastic, can be mounted on a workbench.
The saw is not included, you will have to buy it separately, it costs 150 rubles.
The miter box itself is 300 rubles.
If you need to make a neat corner connection between two wooden parts, then you need to make a corner cut at their ends.
Miter box
The cheapest solution for making angled cuts is a simple miter box. It is usually made of plastic or wood and has slots to allow a saw to make a 45° or 90° cut. In addition, there are miter boxes with more holes for different angles. Use a fine-tooth, wide-blade hacksaw and press the piece of wood you want to cut against the back of the miter box. The relatively narrow miter box shown in the picture is suitable for working with small parts, such as cutting wooden strips for a picture frame or other small wooden parts.
Miter cutting with fixed guide
When using this tool, the saw is fixed in a horizontal strip or guide. The angle between the workpiece and the saw can be precisely set to 22.5°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90°. The saw blade is easy to replace when it wears out.
Electric miter saws
The easiest and fastest way to make miter cuts is to use an electric miter saw. With a saw like this, you are not limited by the width of the workpiece. The rotation speed of these saws can be continuously adjusted and they also have a connection for a vacuum cleaner to collect dust.
Working with a miter saw
If you want to cut a beam or baseboard, first accurately measure where you want to cut and mark it with a pencil by drawing a line.
Set the saw to the desired angle and clamp the workpiece; You can, for example, use a gluing clamp. If you're not sure what angle you need, first make a test cut on a piece of scrap wood.
Before making a cut, check that the saw blade is sharp enough - otherwise the material will split severely and you will have to apply additional force. Fine tooth blades give the best results.CLUE!
If the saw often gets stuck, rub the saw blade with the end of a candle. Candle paraffin will allow you to cut without jamming.
Cutting width
The maximum width or depth of cut when using an electric miter saw depends on the diameter of the blade. The maximum cutting width is equal to the disc diameter, which is usually 250 mm. An electric miter saw may have two guides. They allow you to move the saw towards you and get a larger cutting width.
Sawing
Measure the cutting angle, for example using a measuring stick. If two pieces of wood are at right angles to each other, then the angle is 90°. In this case, each of the two angles at which you need to make a cut is 45°. Using a miter box, you can make a cut at a 45° angle to the left or right. For best appearance, ensure that the same sides of the workpiece will be visible from the inside and outside of the completed joint. If you have learned how to make miter cuts, you can also make a straight join with a bevel edge to join two pieces of wood to add length. In this case, two planks or two plinths will be neatly connected to each other.
Variable cutting angles
By using different cutting angles, you can make the connection at the desired angle. For odd angles, you can make a neat joint by measuring the required cut angle using an adjustable jig or contour gauge. Set the grinder exactly at half of this angle and make corresponding marks on each workpiece. After this, set the grinder at the same angle and you can make a neat connection.