Tips for working in the garden in the fall. What to do in the garden in September: garden work calendar. Necessary autumn work in the garden

Autumn work in the garden requires no less attention and effort than in other seasons. This is especially important because time flies quickly, cold weather is approaching inevitably, and there is still so much to do!

Now your garden is not as bright and elegant as in summer. But right now you must take care of the future of your garden, so that in the spring, basking in the sun, you will be greeted by the first spring flowers– primroses.

The harvest has not yet been completed, but how long unripe fruits can remain on the branches and beds will have to be decided based on weather conditions.

In the fall, many shrubs and trees require care, therefore, after deciduous trees and shrubs have dropped almost all their leaves, you can start replanting them. If you haven't done this before, prune your fruit bushes and cut off any spent rose blossoms. At the end of September - beginning of October - time last haircut hedges.

Take care of perennials: remove faded heads from late bloomers to prolong flowering, and at the end, divide and replant the overgrown plants, because most of them benefit from replanting or dividing every 2-3 years. Rhizomes of dahlias and cannas should be dug up after the first frost.

To make your garden bloom earlier next year, sow some annuals (calendula, poppies, cornflowers, cosmos and sweet pea) directly into the ground.

If you are planting daffodils, then experts recommend doing this in early autumn, but for tulips and hyacinths - three weeks before frost. Don't forget to plant garlic.

Pre-winter planting always causes controversy: the obvious advantages of such sowing are saving time in the spring, the possibility of obtaining earlier and more bountiful harvests, early flowering annuals. Well, the disadvantages are that germination and death of seeds and seedlings from frost cannot be ruled out, there is a high chance of uneven seedlings, etc.

Before winter, you can plant such annuals as: viola, lavatera, cornflower, calendula, iberis, godetia and clarkia, eschscholzia, poppy and cosmos, Drummond phlox, annual chrysanthemums and delphinium, mignonette, kochia, decorative quinoa. And herbaceous perennials: decorative bows, aquilegia, primrose, delphinium, leotard, hellebore, lupine, lychnis, eryngium, yarrow.

From shrubs and trees in the fall, you can plant seeds of hawthorn, barberry, clematis and other plants (requiring stratification).

Vegetables sown before winter include carrots (“Nantes 4” or “Cold-resistant 19”), nigella onions, common leaf parsley, leaf lettuce, head and watercress, spinach, parsnips, physalis, sorrel, beets (“Podzimnyaya”, “ A-474"), dill.

Autumn sowing will be relatively painless only if the soil on your site is quite light and cultivated - this means that it will not float due to autumn rains or spring floods.

The land for planting must be filled with fertilizers. It must be carefully dug up, mixed with peat, humus and ash, loosened, broken into grooves and dry humus or peat prepared for filling the grooves.

But the most important thing is to correctly determine the landing time. Your number one friend and advisor on this issue is the long-term weather forecast. The most important thing is that after sowing there should not be prolonged warming, otherwise the seeds may germinate or die from frost.

The best option is the end of October or the beginning of November, when the daytime air temperature drops to +2-3 degrees, and there are frosts at night.

The place for the winter bed is chosen so that water does not stagnate in autumn and spring, and snow does not blow away in winter. On the day of sowing, grooves 3 cm deep are made in the bed. If on the day of sowing they are covered with snow, sweep it away. Take more seeds than you usually take - 20-25 percent. Sow as usual, cover the top with the prepared peat-humus mixture, and cover the bed with spruce branches on top.

Autumn is the time to take cuttings of heat-loving perennials and bring them into the house ( we're talking about about fuchsia, pelargonium, etc.).

Engage in autumn time and soil health. In the poorest areas, you can sow rye - this will help keep the soil free of weeds and saturate it with microelements. If you planted green manure, dig up the soil along with them; you can cover the dug area with film or mulch with peat (by the way, these measures will contribute to earlier warming of the soil in the spring). Autumn processing allows the soil to better absorb potassium, phosphorus and other important microelements by spring.

You have to big cleaning your garden plot - this always happens in the fall. Trim the wilted greenery of perennials to the roots, bring order to flower beds, borders, alpine slide. Remove rotten and diseased fruits and bearing annuals from the site. garden crops(the roots of legumes - peas, beans, beans - can be left in the soil, they will enrich it with useful substances accumulated over the season, but cut off the top part of the plants.

Rake fallen leaves regularly and thoroughly - you will get excellent leaf humus. But remember that sick plants, as well as plants affected by pests, must be removed from the site or burned.

When the greenhouse is free of plantings, be sure to treat its walls and windows with a disinfectant to kill fungi and other pathogens.

Take care of your lawn. Be sure to remove rotten leaves from it - otherwise the lawn may “go bald” or develop yellow spots. Autumn is the time for cleaning, aerating the lawn, patching it up, applying fertilizers and leveling the surface.

A very important autumn event - mulching plantings quality soil or garden compost. Over the summer, plant roots various reasons They could be naked, and this is dangerous, because there is cold weather ahead. Mulching not only nourishes the plant, but also protects the roots from wind and cold, and helps retain heat and moisture in the soil. Mulching should be done before the onset of frost, when the soil is warmed up after summer and saturated with moisture. Plants that are sensitive to the whims of our winter should be additionally mulched (on top of the “main” mulch) with bark, shavings, and dry leaves. True, this can be done a little later.

And further. Don't forget to prepare bird feeders. Feeding them in winter is not just pleasant, but also useful - it will come new season, and they will thank you a hundredfold by attacking garden pests.

With the onset of autumn, the summer cottage season comes to an end. During this period, it is necessary not only to harvest the crop, but also to prepare the site for winter. Autumn work in the garden cannot be postponed in order to get everything done before the first frost.

Autumn work in the garden at the dacha: harvesting and tillage

The weather in September is still quite warm and allows you to collect the remaining harvest at the dacha. At the beginning of the month, potatoes are dug up, tomatoes are collected, Bell pepper, eggplants. Then comes the turn of carrots and beets. At the end of the month they begin collecting zucchini, pumpkin and cabbage.

Dig it up in dry weather, otherwise wet tubers will not be stored well. Seed specimens are placed in the sun for several days so that they turn slightly green. Solanine formed in tubers is toxic substance, this repels rodents, destroys fungal infections and allows you to save potatoes until spring. The rest of the harvest is removed immediately to storage rooms, since tubers that have turned green in the sun cannot be eaten.

Tomatoes must be removed from the bushes before the air temperature begins to drop below +5°C. If the fruits have not yet ripened, they are placed in a box, shifting the layers paper towels, and cover with paper. Optimal temperature storage air is 15 - 18°C.

A sign of ripening carrots is the yellowing of the tops and the appearance of hairs on the root crop. Only whole specimens are suitable for storage, so vegetables should be removed from the ground with caution. The tops are cut off immediately. Root vegetables are not washed, but only ventilated. For storage they are placed in boxes with sand or sawdust.

The best time to harvest beets is the second half of September. By this time the root crops reach the right size and accumulate a sufficient amount of useful substances, and the tops begin to fade. Vegetables without damage are selected for storage. The tops are not cut off completely, leaving about 1 cm. It is best to store beets together with potatoes.

To determine whether cabbage is ready for harvesting, you need to squeeze the head of cabbage. If it is elastic and does not press through, you can cut it off. Upper leaves remove, leaving the stalk about 2 - 3 cm. Small, dense heads of cabbage of light color are stored well.

After harvesting, the area is cleared of tops. It should be borne in mind that the tops of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplants are destroyed immediately. It cannot be used to further fertilize the soil in the form of compost. Closer to autumn, many leaves are affected by a disease such as late blight, and the ground may become contaminated.

When to harvest beets (video)

Then the garden is dug up and fertilizers are applied. In winter, the soil rests and extra food in the form of fertilizers allows it to better recover and prepare for the upcoming season.

Fertilizers come in two types: organic and mineral.

• Of the organic fertilizers, the most valuable are manure and droppings; they increase soil fertility. Fertilizers are applied during digging to a depth of 10 - 15 cm. This fertilizing is especially useful for growing cucumbers, sweet peppers, and cabbage. It is recommended to fertilize the soil with manure and droppings no more than once every 3 years.
• Ash contains many valuable microelements. It is also brought in for digging. On 1 square meter soil will require about 1 kg of ash. This fertilizer is useful for potatoes, raspberries, and strawberries.
• The compost is placed on prepared loose soil and covered with a rake. You can water the humus with concentrates containing bacteria necessary for the soil, the so-called EM preparations. With this method there is no need for additional mineral and organic fertilizers. It is especially effective for early varieties vegetables

• Mineral fertilizers enrich the soil with elements important for plant life. They are divided into potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen.
• Potassium fertilizers help increase the viability of plants and their resistance to adverse weather conditions and pests. The most commonly used is potassium chloride or sulfate.
• From phosphate fertilizers the most popular: superphosphate, Thomas slag, phosphate rock. They have a beneficial effect on root system plants.
• Nitrogen fertilizers are needed for protein synthesis. They mainly use saltpeter, urea and ammonium sulfate.

When using ready-made complex fertilizers instructions must be followed. Many formulations have a limited scope and are developed for specific plant species.

In autumn, the dug up soil is not broken up, leave large layers to retain snow and retain moisture, as well as to destroy pests that winter in upper layers soil.

Autumn planting of garden and vegetable crops

To provide early harvest Some crops are planted before winter. This saves time in the spring and hardens off the plants. Sowing is done when the air temperature drops to 0°C. Otherwise, the seeds may germinate and the sprouts will die.

Easy to carry winter frosts seeds of such plants:

• carrots, beets;
• onions and winter;
• dill, spinach, sorrel;
• radish, turnip.

Seeds are sown in dry soil and the furrows are covered. The top can be covered with a layer of peat or humus and covered with branches to retain snow.

A month before the onset of frost, fruit tree seedlings are planted. Depending on the region, this could be late September or October. For autumn planting you have to choose winter-hardy varieties, adapted to the local climate.

Most often, the following fruit trees are planted in the fall:

• Apple tree;
• pear;
• plum;
• cherry.

It is advisable to pour a layer of expanded clay at the bottom of the planting hole. The soil is prepared in advance by mixing the soil, vegetable soil and rotted manure. Fertilizers are applied very carefully when planting. so as not to burn the roots of the seedlings. Dry soil is poured on top. Root collar The seedling should be exactly at soil level.

In autumn they plant and fruit and berry bushes. Seedlings are selected with a well-developed root system. During this period, the following take root best:

• black currant;
• raspberries;
• gooseberry.

It is better to plant raspberries in a trench about 50 cm deep and wide. Compost is placed at the bottom of the trench. The soil can be fertilized with superphosphate.

Prepare for currants and gooseberries planting pits about 40 cm deep. A prepared mixture of compost, superphosphate and wood ash is placed at the bottom. The top layer of soil is not fertilized.

Cold-resistant flowers are also planted before winter and ornamental shrubs, such as barberry, hawthorn, honeysuckle.

In order to improve the structure and fertility of the soil by spring, green manure crops are sown in the free areas of the field in the fall. These include:

• rye, barley, oats, wheat;
• rapeseed, rapeseed;
• soybeans, lentils, beans, peas, clover, alfalfa;
• sunflower;
• buckwheat.

How to prepare a site for winter (video)

What autumn work needs to be done in the garden

Autumn work in the garden begins with harvesting fruit trees. It is important to do this on time so that the fruit lasts longer. The maturity of the fruit is determined by the seeds. As soon as they reached light - Brown, the fruits must be picked, otherwise they will be overripe. The fruits are picked at the base of the stalk so as not to leave a dent.

It is necessary to remove all fruits from the trees and under them, even spoiled ones. Viruses, fungi, and larvae of garden pests can overwinter in them.

Trees and bushes are pruned and old, diseased branches are removed. Used as fertilizer for garden trees wood ash, which is scattered around the trunk.

To protect against rodents, prepare a mixture of clay and mullein, taken in equal proportions. Creolin or carbolic acid is added for scent. Tree trunks are coated with this composition. It must be taken into account that such a composition makes it difficult for oxygen to reach plants. Currently, for these purposes it is more expedient to use plastic mesh with small cells. They wrap it around a tree trunk, making it difficult for rodents to access.

Important work in autumn period is moisture-charging irrigation . This procedure is carried out when the leaves begin to fall. Small watering grooves with a depth of about 15 cm are dug around the trunk circle. It is necessary to wet the soil to a depth of 1 m. To determine the degree of moisture, dig a hole nearby with a depth of about 40 cm. If a handful of soil from the bottom of the hole can be compressed into a dense lump, then the soil is sufficiently moistened . You can add complex ones to the grooves mineral fertilizers.

When the air temperature no longer rises above -5°C, it is necessary to cover heat-loving plants for the winter. To do this, use sawdust, spruce branches, fallen leaves, burlap or special agrofibre.

Preparing greenhouses for winter

Wooden posts are treated with a solution copper sulfate, which prevents rotting and germination of moss.

In addition to disinfecting the surface of the greenhouse, it is also necessary to treat the soil, in which a considerable number of pests have accumulated during the summer season.

The soil in the greenhouse is carefully dug up. If the area is not very large, thermal disinfection can be used. The soil is covered with a film and boiling water is poured under it. Often used for processing slaked lime or dolomite flour, which destroy pests and enrich the soil with potassium and magnesium. Additional nutrients are provided by fertilizing the land with superphosphate.

How to prepare the soil for winter (video)

For the winter, it is necessary to strengthen the frame of the greenhouse so that it does not collapse under the weight of snow. To do this, supports or arc-shaped fastenings are installed inside the greenhouse on a hard surface. If the surface of the greenhouse is made of glass, its integrity should be checked. Small cracks can be sealed with tape to prevent wind and snow from completely destroying the surface. If possible, the integrity of the structure should be checked in winter.

Completed on time autumn events will save time in the spring and get a rich harvest from all crops.

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Autumn is the period when we need to prepare the garden for winter period. It is at this time that we need to lay the foundation for a successful and fruitful harvest next season.

In this article we will talk about what work we will need to do in the garden in the fall.

What work should you do in the garden in September?

Garden. In the first month of autumn, we need to collect the remaining harvest (with the exception of some winter species) and begin to prepare the plants for the winter period. Many inexperienced gardeners often make the same mistake: the apples on the tree are overexposed, as a result of which they become overripe and fall off.

Such fruits very quickly lose their taste, and they cannot be stored for a long time. In addition, if the harvest is late, the tree will spend additional energy, which of course will affect its health in the winter.

Also, do not forget that winter varieties Apples must be removed from trees before consumer ripeness; they will ripen during storage.

September, one might say, is a kind of transition period, that is, instead of the work that we did in the summer, we begin to switch to autumn work.

Already at the end of the month it will be possible to start digging up the soil in the circles around the tree trunks, as well as start applying fertilizers.

In the first ten days of September, we plant rooted currant cuttings (white, red, black).

After the gooseberries and currants are harvested, you can begin to thin out the bushes. This is how we prune raspberries, remove fruit-bearing shoots and new underdeveloped ones.

We dig up the soil around the berry bushes, simultaneously applying organic and mineral fertilizers.

At the end of September, for planting, we begin to take tree seedlings and rooted cuttings of berry cuttings from the nursery.

In the first half of September, we begin to plant head lettuce seedlings in a heated spring or winter greenhouse. For of this plant great importance has a watering regime that will be carried out in the autumn-winter period, that is, in order to avoid the appearance of rot, watering should not be too frequent.

In September we begin stocking up on soil, peat, compost and manure. We continue to actively care for autumn plants tomatoes, radishes, cucumbers, etc.

We begin to disinfect the walls and shelving of the greenhouse, frames, using for these purposes a 40% formaldehyde solution or an infusion of bleach (400 g per 10 liters of water).

In the first half of September in heated film winter greenhouses you can sow parsley. By January you will already have 2 harvests of parsley. We do the same with celery.

You can also start harvesting rhizomes of perennial vegetable plants.

Vegetable garden in open ground . In September it will be possible to start collecting carrots, tomatoes, onions, zucchini, parsley, and celery. This work is the most important in the garden this autumn month. The beds that were freed from vegetable crops, we begin to clear away plant debris and weeds, and then begin digging.

By this time all should be completed preparatory work for the storage of vegetable crops.

In the first half of September we continue to take care of late varieties cabbage

What work should be done in the garden in October?

Garden. In October it will be possible to start pruning trees. We begin to clear the trunks fruit trees from dying bark. With help lime mortar We whitewash trunks and skeletal branches.

We spray the tree crowns with the same solution. After the leaves fall, we treat the trees with a 6-8% solution of ferrous sulfate.

We continue to cultivate the soil in tree trunk circles, adding organic and mineral fertilizers, and, if necessary, lime.

October is also a more suitable period to fertilize fruit and berry plants. In cases where there was no rain in autumn, and fruit trees were not watered so often, we carry out moisture-recharging winter watering along the trunk circular ditches. The soil itself must be moistened to a depth of 50-60 cm.

Also, after the leaf fall period, you should not leave fallen leaves under the trees (we collect them and burn them).

If possible, remove heaps of grass and manure, branches and brushwood off-site. This way you can eliminate the possibility of attracting mice to the area for the winter.

To prevent the branches of young trees from breaking under the weight of snow, we tie them together.

In order to protect the bark in early spring from rodents and sunburn, we tie the trunks with roofing felt, roofing felt or spruce wood.

We begin to cover the tree trunk circles with humus and peat, and cover them with soil from the inter-row spaces. When the first snow falls, we throw as much of it as possible onto the tree trunk circles.

We are also starting to prepare the berry fields for the winter. We cultivate the soil, always adding organic and mineral fertilizers.

We tie young currant and gooseberry bushes so that they are not broken by snow. We untie the raspberry shoots from the trellises. We bend and pin their tops to the ground or connect neighboring bushes together.

Having finished processing the berry plantations, cover the plantings with peat or humus, but so that the centers of the bushes are not covered.

Vegetable garden in a greenhouse or greenhouse. In October we sow new varieties of parsley for greens. To new year holidays appeared on our table fresh herbs, plant root crops with petioles and keep them at temperature conditions 4-8°C

We are carrying out preparatory work for growing vegetable crops in the new season. We begin to wipe the wire frame with kerosene, on which the film of the spring greenhouse has been holding all this time.

To disinfect the wooden parts of the greenhouse, we use a 10% solution of copper sulfate.

In October, you must definitely stock up on fresh soil, peat and humus, since in the future you may not have such an opportunity.

Vegetable garden in open ground. In October, we need to complete all harvesting work with crops grown in open ground.

We remove all plant debris from the vacated beds and begin to dig up the soil, but at the same time adding fertilizers. During digging, we also remove the rhizomes of perennial weeds and destroy the larvae of pests (if any).

What work to do in the garden in November?

Garden. This month of autumn all work on garden plot must be completed. Every day the soil begins to freeze deeper and deeper. Before frost sets in, we will need outdoor water pipes and drain the water from the barrels and remove them from the garden watering hoses, clean and dry all gardening equipment.

So that it doesn't wash off fertile soil, we make furrows across the existing slope on the site. We place shields and other means of snow retention in windy areas.

Snowless period for fruit roots and berry crops can be very dangerous, and therefore you need to take care of their safety. Using peat and spruce branches cover the tree trunk circles. For these purposes, you can also use a special covering material.

Vegetable garden in a greenhouse and hotbed. In November, the fruiting period of autumn-winter crops - cucumbers, tomatoes and lettuce - ends.

After disinfection, the greenhouse can be used for forcing green onions, sorrel, celery, and parsley.

Vegetable garden in open ground. In November we insulate perennial vegetable plants, we check and calibrate vegetable seeds. We monitor how vegetables are stored in our cellar or basement.

You should also not forget about organizing food for the birds remaining for the winter. We hang feeders in the garden and vegetable garden, not forgetting to periodically add food there. In the future, the birds will thank you by destroying caterpillars and larvae of insect pests.

Autumn is the time of harvesting and summing up. However, don’t think that autumn gardening ends there. There is one more thing that needs to be done, namely, to prepare the site for the next season. This is easy to do if you follow the instructions that we have prepared for you. So, what do you need to do in the fall to meet the spring season with dignity?

This is one of the most labor-intensive autumn jobs, however, and one of the most important for guaranteed harvest on next year. Plowing the land before the onset of frost promotes better accumulation of moisture and nutrients during the winter and washes out harmful salts. In the spring, such soil will become looser and more breathable than soil that has not been plowed. In addition, loosening performs another the most important function– provokes the germination of weed seeds. Within 2 weeks after such work, the beds will be covered with seedlings weeds, which, naturally, will die after the first frost.

When digging the ground, do not break up the lumps of earth, but simply throw them to the surface. Blocky, uncompacted soil freezes better, so eggs and larvae of plant pests, as well as some weed seeds, will die in it more quickly. Frosts will further loosen the dug up soil and then the clods in the spring, with the arrival of warmth, will disintegrate into small pieces. The soil will acquire a good structure, becoming loose and airy.

Autumn digging is carried out to the depth of the fertile layer, so as not to bring infertile soil to the surface. Most often, this depth corresponds to the size of the shovel bayonet.

Autumn work in the garden, associated with digging up the earth, is usually combined with the application of fertilizers, lime substances, sand or clay. The most effective organic fertilizer Manure has long been considered to improve soil composition. It is not embedded in the ground too deeply, especially when it comes to fresh fertilizer, since when it gets into the deep layers, its decomposition practically does not occur. And, conversely, in the upper layers during the winter, manure partially decomposes and becomes good food for beneficial soil bacteria. If possible, use it for autumn fertilizer Already rotted manure is great, take it. By spring it will decompose completely and will bring a lot of benefits to your future harvest.

Pruning trees and shrubs

Autumn - best time for pruning trees and shrubs, both fruit and decorative species. This work should be carried out after the massive fall of foliage begins, but before the onset of stable frosts. If the temperature drops to -10°C, you should wait for pruning and wait until it warms up. The fact is that in such frosts the wood becomes too fragile and is easily damaged when pruning, and injuries, as a rule, do not heal.

Pruning begins with the removal of diseased, dead and broken branches. The same should be done with branches that, with their growth, deform correct form tree or bush. For example, crowns that are too elongated to the periphery or, conversely, growing deeper.

After pruning, spray the sections with a 2% solution of copper sulfate, and then thoroughly treat them with garden varnish, glue or drying oil. This will prevent the formation of fungi and pathogenic bacteria in the wood wounds, causing it to rot.

Planting trees and shrubs

Fruit trees can be planted both in autumn and spring, but berry bushes begin to grow in early spring, so it is better to plant them in October-November. Autumn planting begins from the moment the leaves turn yellow, and ends two weeks before the expected onset of stable frosts.

Preparing cuttings for spring grafting

If you want to do spring grafting trees, then you need to stock up on cuttings for it in the fall. To do this with south side healthy cuttings 15-40 cm long are cut from the tree. They are wrapped in thick cloth and placed in a cool damp place. For example, a refrigerator shelf near freezer. In such conditions, the cuttings will survive the winter well.

Autumn mulching

Autumn work in the garden also involves protecting some plants that are not very frost-resistant from the cold. This can be easily done through simple mulching with garden compost or high-quality soil. Before the onset of cold weather, you need to inspect the plants and, if some of them have bare roots, you should mulch them, otherwise they will have a hard time in winter. Mulching is carried out already in September, when the soil is still warmed up after summer and sufficiently moistened. Heat-loving plants They need denser cover, so it is advisable to additionally mulch them with shavings, dry leaves, and bark.

Destruction of pests in the garden

Even though the harvest has already been harvested and frosts are coming, you should not stop fighting pests - insects, their larvae, bacteria and fungi can continue their “subversive” activities even in the cold season.

A fairly effective and popular remedy against pests is a 5% urea solution, which is evenly sprayed on trees and shrubs. In the same way, fallen leaves are sprayed, and later, after they are harvested, the surface of the earth is sprayed. In addition to urea, you can use other preparations: a solution of copper sulfate or special chemical fungicides. Spraying of plants should be done at the beginning of October, and it is better to do this twice with an interval of 5-7 days.

Another way to control pests is to whitewash trees and bushes. This event destroys those pests that have climbed under the bark for the winter, and also reduces the likelihood of cracks from frost and winter sunburn. Whitewashing should be done by covering the surface of the bark from the ground to the beginning of the lower branches.

Autumn work in the flower garden: winter sowing of flower seeds

Pre-winter sowing of annual or perennial flowers is carried out on frozen ground. Presumably this will be the end of October - November. You should not sow earlier - warming can cause seed germination and the death of young plants.

Winter sowing is an imitation natural conditions plant propagation. Indeed, in nature, plants reproduce only this way - the seeds fall off in the fall, and only germinate in the spring. What is the advantage of such sowing? The fact is that plants planted in this way have time to harden off before spring - they are better able to withstand sudden changes in temperature and cold snaps. In general, sprouts emerging from seeds winter sowing will be much more durable and resistant to various kinds diseases than their relatives planted in the spring. In addition, which cannot but rejoice, plants planted in autumn bloom on average 1-3 weeks earlier than the same species and varieties planted in spring.

Preparing the soil for sowing should begin in September. To do this, the ground is dug up and holes or furrows are marked where the seeds will then be poured. It should be noted that autumn sowing It is produced to a shallower depth than the spring one, since in winter, under the influence of precipitation, the earth will be compacted and it will be difficult for the sprouts to break through the too dense and thick layer. After the holes are prepared, you should wait until the soil begins to freeze, and only then plant the seeds, covering them with pre-prepared soil. There is no need to water the plantings, otherwise any warming will cause the seeds to germinate.