Make a stove chimney correctly. Construction of a stove pipe (chimney) made of brick and metal. Stove and fireplace pipes

The convenience, comfort and safety of operation of both a gas boiler and a wood-burning sauna stove depend on the correctness of the design and the correct assembly of the chimney. In today's article we will talk about what the chimney installation diagram looks like for different types of heating devices.

General rules for installing and installing a chimney:

• Fire safety. This is achieved by laying insulation between the chimney and combustible floor materials, as well as thickening the walls of the chimney. It is also necessary to maintain the minimum distance between the wall and the chimney pipe. A profitable solution is to use a sandwich pipe.
• Having good traction. The first rule of draft: the longer the smoke exhaust channel, the better the draft. The optimal length is 500–600 cm.
• Tightness of the outer part of the pipe. This will ensure proper and long-lasting operation of the chimney.
• Lowest resistance for smoke passage in the exhaust duct. The canal walls should be as smooth as possible.
• Compliance of the material for the manufacture of the chimney with the temperature conditions and chemical composition of the exhaust gases.
• When using different types of fuel, different flues must be used. Sufficiently high smoke temperature when entering the exhaust duct

. If this rule is not followed, condensation will form on the walls of the chimney, which will contribute to the destruction of the internal surface of the chimney. The fewer vertical partitions in the smoke exhaust system, the better. This is especially true for large ovens.

The peculiarity of firewood as a fuel is the great heat it produces. It follows from this that the temperature of the smoke in a wood-burning sauna stove or fireplace will be high, but uneven. Not every chimney can withstand such prolonged exposure.

Most often, heat-resistant bricks are used to install a chimney for heating devices such as a sauna stove or a fireplace with a wood-burning firebox (see).

Making a brick chimney

• The correct diagram of a brick chimney in general terms may look like this:

You should know: all masonry work on the outside of the building must be done with the addition of cement and water to the solution!

You should know! To prevent water from stagnating on the otter's ledge, it is necessary to make corner slopes of cement plaster on all four sides.

• After the external expansion, the main riser is made, as in the attic. For beauty, a brick cap is usually laid out.
• The brick chimney is completed with a cap that protects from environmental influences: wind, precipitation. The shape of the protective umbrella can be different. The best option is a deflector.

A graphic diagram of a brick stove chimney for a house or bathhouse is shown in the figure below.

It is the two-bell smoke exhaust system that is optimal for use in large stoves and fireplaces with large wood-burning hearths. It provides more or less uniform heating in the room, and also has a minimum of obstacles to the movement of smoke to the exhaust duct.

Features of a double chimney for a fireplace

Another chimney option is a double pipe. On the outside it is made of brick, and inside there is a metal cylindrical part. If the pipe is made of stainless steel, then this chimney option is suitable for installing a gas boiler.

Combined double smoke exhausts for fireplaces have a number of advantages over brick ones:

1. The channel for the movement of smoke has a smooth surface, without obstacles.
2. The fire safety of the building as a whole increases.
3. The outer part can be laid without fluff.
4. The service life of the chimney increases.
5. The tightness of the entire chimney is improved.

The figure below shows a diagram of a chimney for a fireplace or gas boiler that has a combined structure.

The peculiarity of this design is that it is usually made in a radical design, and not mounted. That is, the chimney itself is located directly next to the heating unit.

• When installing a combined chimney, a foundation is first made, which has a minimum height 30 cm.
• The brickwork of the shaft is done in accordance with the same conditions as when installing a conventional brick chimney.
• Due to the design features of the double channel, the outer shaft is placed vertically without necessarily thickening the walls in the area of ​​the ceiling.
• At the bottom, immediately after the foundation, a niche is made with a door for cleaning.
• A stainless steel metal pipe is assembled from top to bottom in such a way that each subsequent elbow is inserted inside the previous one.
• All joints of the internal part of the combined chimney are treated with a sealant with a heat resistance declared by the manufacturer of at least 1000°C.

Correct installation of chimneys for gas equipment

The characteristics of the waste generated during the operation of a gas boiler imply certain design requirements for chimneys for this type of heating device (see).

Assembling a chimney for a boiler with natural draft

The general diagram for installing a chimney for a floor-standing gas boiler with a hole for removing combustion products at the back of the housing is as follows:

• Since acid-containing substances appear in the smoke generated during operation of a gas boiler, the chimney must be made of acid-resistant stainless steel. Such systems are sold in stores and the process of assembling them is not particularly complicated. The best option is a two-channel sandwich type chimney.
• The main part of the pipe is located on the street. To add rigidity, it is attached in one or two places to wall brackets.

You should know: since the exhaust combustion products in gas equipment have a low temperature, condensation may form. To protect the boiler from water getting inside when using a single-channel chimney, you should install a condensate collector in the system, and also insulate the part of the pipe that runs outside. A more rational solution is to use a sandwich chimney.

The sandwich pipe consists of three layers:

• The inner layer of the sandwich pipe experiences serious chemical and thermal loads; stainless heat-resistant steel is used for its manufacture;
• The middle layer of the sandwich pipe is insulation (basalt fiber);
• The outer contour of the sandwich pipe is galvanized or stainless steel.

The cross-section of the sandwich pipe is oval, since this shape is optimal for installing a chimney for a gas boiler.

You should know! All contacts with flammable substances in walls and ceilings must be insulated with non-combustible materials.

• When exiting onto the roof, the pipe has a protruding part (skirt), which performs the same function as an otter in a brick pipe.
• For better protection against penetration of precipitation under the roof, the pipe is inserted into the hole of a kind of apron, shaped like a square.

You should know! Before purchasing a chimney roofing unit (apron), be sure to measure the slope of the roof surface! This will allow you to guide the chimney pipe through the hole of the unit as accurately as possible and ensure the highest tightness of this structure.

• The chimney is completed with a conical or fungal cap.

Installing a hood for a wall-mounted boiler

There is a type of gas boilers with forced exhaust of combustion products. Inside the exhaust chamber of such devices there is a “dutch” - a fan.

The chimneys of such boilers are characterized by minimal dimensions in length and the least difficulty in installation. They consist of two channels insulated with high quality stone wool. The internal channel serves as an exhaust hood, and the external one serves as an air intake from the street.

The chimney diagram for a boiler with a coaxial output is simple; installation is carried out as follows:

• A bend with an angle of 87 degrees.
• Next, a hole is marked in the wall for the pipe. Then the boiler is removed from the anchors and a through hole is hollowed out (cut out) according to the markings, taking into account the laying of non-combustible insulation in 30–100 mm along the entire circumference of the pipe.
• Now we push the pipe through the hole and insert it into the outlet, which is already attached with special screws to the boiler body.

You should know! To seal all connections, the coaxial chimney kit includes a special sealant and a wide clamp.

A chimney is an essential element of any heating system that emits combustion products during operation. A draft is created in the pipe, on the one hand providing an influx of oxygen into the firebox, which is necessary to maintain the combustion process, and on the other hand, facilitating the removal of smoke and gases to the outside. In long-burning stoves, the installation and operation of the chimney is carried out according to standard rules, although it has some features.

Of the variety of metal ovens, installations with a long combustion function (convection ovens) are in great demand and popularity. Such ovens are easy to use and very economical. They are equally well suited for small country houses, multi-storey private houses, workshops, warehouses, etc.

The main features of such furnaces include:

• Increased volume of the firebox, accommodating a large amount of firewood.
• Dividing the firebox into two chambers that perform different functions. Gas is burned in one, wood is smoldering in the other.
• The presence of a special bumper inside the firebox that prevents the open flame from engulfing the chimney.

The combustion process itself is radically different from the operation of an ordinary metal furnace. The firewood is ignited in the upper part of the firebox, and air is supplied here. The supply volume is regulated by a damper. The fire spreads downward, and the intensity of the flame cannot be called strong; the process is more like smoldering.

As the wood smolders, pyrolysis gas is also released, which moves into a separate chamber of the firebox, mixes with air and also burns, further increasing the efficiency of the installation.

During operation of a long-burning stove, less heat is generated, allowing the room temperature to be maintained at the same level. Much less firewood is consumed, and the combustion products entering the chimney have a low concentration of harmful substances.

Buleryan stove: advantages and disadvantages

Bullerjan is one of the types of long-burning stoves that operates on the principle of convection.

The design was developed by Canadian inventor Eric Darnell in 1975, after which the rights to the patent were purchased by German businessmen who launched serial production of stoves under this brand.

The stove combines the functionality of a standard wood-burning firebox, air heater and gas generator. Buleryan is able to work in two modes:

• Kindling. More air is supplied to burning wood, which contributes to its rapid combustion and accelerated heating of the room.
• Gasification. The oxygen supply is reduced to a minimum. The firewood gradually smolders, and the room warms up more slowly. In this operating mode, one stack of firewood will be enough for 10-12 hours of continuous operation.

Although manufacturers today offer private homeowners a wide variety of heating boilers, many of them prefer to install stoves or fireplaces in their homes, since thanks to them, heating the premises requires minimal costs. Any heating equipment requires reliable removal of combustion products. That is why during its construction it is necessary to pay special attention to both aesthetic characteristics and operational characteristics.

The required level of draft, which provides the most comfortable and safe conditions for being in a particular room, is created by the chimney for the stove. It is an air channel through which combustion products exit. It can be a regular brick pipe or modular metal types, the only important thing is that it functions properly.

Basic designs

Exhaust channels through which air saturated with combustion products is disposed of are necessary not only for stoves, but also for fireplaces or heating boilers or gas water heaters.

Let us list the main types of chimneys for stoves.

• Direct current. This is one of the first systems through which combustion products were removed. They have a significant drawback - due to the non-stop removal of gases to the outside, the bulk of the generated heat is also carried away.
• Direct-flow structures equipped with crossbars. These small additions help retain some of the heat. When heated, the jumpers transfer heat to the walls of the heating unit. The same design is typical for stoves without a chimney in bathhouses: the stones in them are heated by the hot combustion products.

• With a "labyrinth". There are many varieties of such designs, but they all have common features. In particular, this concerns the rate of gas removal. It is quite low, since the exhaust gases are passed through a tortuous channel. In the process, the device itself warms up in parallel and ensures maximum heat transfer.

• A now classic Russian stove. The chimney diagram is bell-shaped. The hot gas rises up, cools slightly on the inclined arch of the hearth and descends to the channel. The disadvantage of such a system is that it heats up unevenly. For example, in the lower part of the hearth it does not warm up at all, since the heat mainly goes to the roof.
• Modular. Unlike the classic brick version of smoke removal, they are made of metal. They are used in gas-fired heating systems. The fact is that the products of methane combustion are acidic compounds that destroy bricks with their aggressive effects.

Device Features

The efficiency of brick, metal, flexible chimneys for stoves and others depends on several factors, for example, material and dimensions, cross-section, height.

• It is preferable that the chimney pipes, say, for a bathhouse, have a regular circle in cross section, that is, they have a cylindrical shape. The escaping smoke with this configuration, unlike the angular one, does not encounter obstacles in its path and is removed with the least resistance. In addition, a minimum of soot accumulates on the walls of the outlet pipe.
• The outlet of the heating device must coincide in cross-section with the smoke exhaust duct. If the width of the latter in the connection area turns out to be greater, which occurs quite often, then a special reducing adapter is installed, which must be carefully sealed at the junction. When joining, the expansion of the pipes should be directed upward to prevent condensate and resins from flowing out along their outer wall.

• The horizontal part of the channel structure requires special attention. Warm smoke, as you know, moves vertically upward, so moisture condenses especially actively in these areas and a thick layer of soot is deposited. To compensate for such undesirable consequences and improve traction, it is necessary, firstly, to strictly limit the length of these sections: they must be less than 1 m in length, and, secondly, to provide condensate receivers and inspection doors there.

The correct chimney for sauna stoves is exclusively vertical. However, it is permissible to lay the pipe at a slight slope, provided that the length of the inclined section is no more than 2 m.

Main stages of calculation

The calculation of the chimney is carried out taking into account such parameters as the power of the connected heating device, shape and others. The optimal height and diameter of the section are calculated based on the SNiP of the stove and chimneys.

Height above roof

To determine the height of the outlet channel of industrial boilers, a special formula is used that describes its relationship with static draft, the average temperature (K) in the pipe and the average outside air temperature in the summer. If necessary, the value obtained from the calculation results is adjusted upward, taking into account the following rule:

When calculating the height, the height of neighboring buildings is also taken into account: in the case of higher ones, the channel is installed above their roofs.

Pipe cross-sectional area

In practice, they usually do without special calculations, based on the following cross-sectional values, depending on the power of the unit:

• less than 3500 W - 14 ×14 cm;
• 3500–5200 W - 14×20 cm;
• 5200–7200 W - 14×27 cm.

The cross-sectional area of ​​the cylindrical channel is assumed to be the same.

If the cross-section is significantly larger than the calculated value, the traction will deteriorate and, as a result, the system will operate unstably. A smaller cross-section leads to poor removal of combustion products, up to the complete cessation of this process.

Material

The choice of material for the design of the smoke exhaust system is based on the type of fuel used for heating. For example, MDS ceramic pipes are best suited for gas equipment, while brick pipes can quickly collapse.

The classic version of the exhaust system is a brick chimney for a metal stove. The brick structure is assembled exactly according to the design, where the laying of each layer of the channel is prescribed separately. In this case, it is necessary to obtain a minimally rough surface from the inside and ensure complete tightness.

Today, stainless steel is most often used. In the design, steel pipes can be: insulated and non-insulated:

• non-insulated ones are used exclusively for internal installation of stoves and chimneys: they are installed in a special shaft;
• When installing a pipe outside, it must be insulated to prevent moisture condensation inside the pipe.

Safety

For safety reasons, the chimney must be properly insulated, especially if the duct passes through ceilings in the immediate vicinity of flammable materials. based on the type of floor material and pipe temperature. It would be great if the walls and ceiling close to where the structure passes are finished with fireproof material. If this is not the case, then the heated parts are insulated from hazardous materials using sheets of metal and a layer of non-combustible materials.

The part of the pipe going outside must be securely fixed and protected from the wind. They are covered with deflectors on top to protect them from precipitation. Gas boilers are an exception in this matter: the protective cap on the chimney pipe in this case is a violation.

Some information from SNiP used when installing a stove and fireplace chimney

• Smoke exhaust ducts can also be located on external walls if they are made of non-combustible material, and the heating device is located near the internal ones. In this case, external thermal insulation is required, which will prevent moisture from condensing inside the pipe.
• The brick channels are complemented by pockets necessary for cleaning. They are covered with bricks (laid on edge) or a door is installed.
• For roofs made of flammable materials, it is necessary to provide a mesh spark arrester, which is installed along the top of the channel. If the latter is made of brick, then between it and flammable hazardous materials it is necessary to provide a gap of 13 cm, in the case of non-insulated ceramics - 25 cm, and for insulated ones - 13 cm.

• Installation of stoves and fireplaces using gas fuel has its own characteristics. The connection is made using flexible metal pipes included in the equipment set. A prerequisite is the presence of a vertical section in the system, and the distance between the horizontal axis and the line of the lower level of the pipe must be at least 50 cm. This distance can be reduced, for example, if the ceiling height is less than 270 cm
• doubled if the heating unit is equipped with a draft stabilizer;
• up to 15 cm if there is no stabilizer.

• In a new building, the maximum length of all horizontal sections is more than 3 m, in an old building - up to 6 m. The pipe is installed with a slight slope in the direction of the heating unit. If there are two units operating in the house, then they can be connected to a common outlet channel. They should be spaced less than 75 cm apart from each other.
• The outlet channel can have a maximum of three turns, the radius of curvature of which must exactly coincide with the diameter of the pipe section.

There is not a single stove without a chimney. The removal of carbon monoxide and smoke from the firebox is a necessary condition for the proper operation of the stove. What should the pipe be made of and how to arrange it so that it lasts for a long time and does not create additional problems? An experienced stove maker will answer without hesitation - from the same material as the stove itself. This is due to the fact that different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion. And if brick and metal are heated at the same time during the fire, then a gap will form at the point of their connection over time. Smoke begins to leak through the gap, this disrupts the smooth operation of the stove, and also poses a serious threat to the life and health of household members. Therefore, if you want to build a chimney for a brick stove, you must also do it from brick.

What is a brick chimney and where is it used?

Chimneys are used to remove gaseous combustion products in stoves, fireplaces and heating boilers. Under the influence of draft, smoke, carbon monoxide and soot are carried from the firebox into the chimney and discharged outside. As they move, they cool down, giving off heat to the walls of the chimney.

To remove combustion products from a brick stove, you need to build a chimney from the same material, i.e. brick

Unlike metal pipes, brick has:

But a brick chimney also has a rather significant disadvantage. In country houses and country cottages it is not possible to fold cylindrical pipes, which are ideal for the passage of hot gases. The internal cross-section of a square or rectangular shape creates obstacles to the flow of smoke. As a result, a layer of soot quickly forms on the inner walls, which reduces traction. Accordingly, they have to be cleaned more often than metal ones.

Chimney pipe design and operating principle

The classic chimney design is a vertical tower, inside of which there is a through hole that connects the furnace firebox with the open space outside the house. According to the laws of physics, air pressure decreases with distance from the earth's surface. As a result, a draft arises inside the pipe - the desire of the air mass to move from bottom to top. If the air access from below is blocked, the draft disappears. Therefore, a smoke damper or view must be installed in the chimney, with the help of which it is possible to regulate the draft.

Using the damper, you can regulate the size of the smoke channel, and therefore the draft

Since the pipe is used in residential buildings, it should not pose a fire hazard, therefore the masonry is carried out taking into account maximum protection from possible fire. A certain terminology has become established among stove makers, which reflects the structure and functional purpose of individual pipe elements.

In some cases, a combined pipe design is practiced. The brickwork ends in the attic and then a metal or asbestos pipe is mounted to it, leading to the roof. In this case, there is no need for an otter, neck and head, which significantly saves time and money. At the same time, we must not forget that the cross-sectional area of ​​a metal pipe should not differ from the cross-section of a brick pipe in a smaller direction. The combination of a stainless steel pipe embedded in an asbestos pipe has proven itself well.

In the upper part of the chimney, where the temperature of the flue gases is not so high, you can make a transition from a brick pipe to a metal one

In both cases, the top hole must be closed with an umbrella (or deflector), which will prevent rain and snow from directly entering the pipe.

Calculation of main pipe parameters

All calculations for the chimney must be performed at the design stage of the stove. The project must be carried out by a qualified engineer or craftsman who is well versed in all the nuances of the furnace business. It is impossible to plan the dimensions of the pipe in isolation from the dimensions of the firebox and heat exchanger. Everything is interconnected and must correspond to one goal - the coordinated operation of the furnace equipment.

If, when building a fireplace, the “body” of the stove is missing, and the firebox is directly connected to the chimney, then the Russian stove additionally has heating ducts in the walls, and it is impossible not to make allowances for this. The presence of passages changes the draft and lengthens the path of the flue gases several times. Accordingly, the chimney must create greater vacuum so that the movement of gases is accelerated and soot does not settle inside the passage. A separate topic could be the calculation of the parameters of the chimney in a sauna stove. It is important here that the draft is not excessive, and that the burning fuel has time to transfer heat inside the steam room.

The stove maker’s task includes taking into account not only internal, but also external factors - the location of the pipe in relation to the roof, the characteristics of the local climate, and even the influence of the landscape.

The chimney draft can be affected by tall buildings and trees located nearby, as well as by incorrect choice of chimney height

For gas heating systems, due to their increased fire hazard, the calculation of the chimney parameters is carried out by specialists who develop the boiler. The dimensions are indicated in the technical data sheet and are mandatory.

In private construction, where the combustion is carried out mainly with solid fuel (wood, coal, peat or fuel briquettes), you can adhere to the following rules that will ensure the correct operation of any stove:

• the internal cross-sectional area of ​​a rectangular chimney in closed-type furnaces should not exceed the cross-sectional area of ​​the blower;
• the internal cross-sectional area of ​​the pipe in open-type stoves and fireplaces is calculated in a ratio of 1:10 in relation to the firebox.

It is believed that if the chimney structure has a rectangular shape, the ratio of the short side to the long side should be equal to 1:2. In this case, the minimum permissible cross-sectional size of the channel is 14 x 14 cm.

The size of the brick chimney channel wall should not be less than 14 cm

An important factor is the height of the pipe. Correct calculation allows:

• optimize the operation of the chimney and achieve better efficiency indicators for heat transfer;
• ensure safe operation of the heating device, eliminate the leakage of harmful gases due to weak draft;
• ensure fire safety - if the draft is excessive, sparks and flames may fly out of the pipe.

In general, the height is determined in accordance with SNiP 2.04.05–91:

• the minimum distance from the grate to the top point of the chimney (excluding the protective umbrella) is 5 m;
• the optimal distance is 6 m.

Such parameters ensure stable draft, i.e. the design of the chimney allows you to create a pressure drop sufficient to operate the stove at any time of the year. But in each particular case it is also necessary to take into account:

There is such an unpleasant phenomenon as backdraft. This term refers to the movement of smoke in the chimney in the opposite direction - from the chimney duct into the room. There may be several reasons for this, but the main one is the incorrect position of the chimney. As a rule - underestimated.

An error in choosing the height of the chimney often leads to backdraft

Excess draft can always be eliminated by adjusting the air flow in the ash pan and smoke valves. Insufficient traction is exacerbated in several ways:

1. Pipe extension.
2. Cleaning the inner surface of the chimney duct.
3. Installing a deflector.

The deflector not only increases draft, but also protects the chimney channel from moisture, debris and birds and bats settling in it.

According to experts, by installing a deflector on a chimney you can increase draft by 15–20%

Video: how to calculate the height of the chimney

You will learn about which pipe is best to choose for a chimney, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of materials in our material:.

Making a brick chimney with your own hands

Knowing the design features of chimneys and having a ready-made project in hand, you can begin to independently construct a smoke exhaust duct.

Materials and tools required for chimney construction

To build a chimney yourself, you will need the following tools:

• trowel and mason's hammer;
• hydraulic level, plumb line (or construction laser level);
• construction bucket for mixing mortar;
• building rule, jointing;
• electric mixer (you can use a regular drill with an attachment);
• measuring instruments - tape measure, ruler.

To build a chimney, standard tools from a mason's kit are required.

During the masonry process, you need to make smaller building elements from brick - brick plates, a quarter of a brick, a half, etc. An experienced mason copes with the task with one well-timed blow of a hammer. A novice stove maker who does not have such skills can use a grinder with a diamond blade. With its help, cutting of any required shape becomes easily accessible, although accompanied by a large amount of dust.

Some stove makers successfully use a template made of wood or metal for masonry. The template allows you to strictly adhere to the dimensions, which is especially important for the internal hole of the pipe.

In addition, you will need materials:

• red brick (in no case white - silicate) solid, hollow, fireclay, clinker;
• cement mixture (can be ready-made or prepared independently from sand, cement and clay);
• a set of smoke valves or views;
• sheet metal or roofing.

Preparatory work before making a chimney

Before directly starting work on laying a brick pipe, it is necessary to carry out certain preparatory work:

During operation, hands come into contact with chemically aggressive solutions; it is recommended to use protective gloves to protect them.

When performing work on the roof, it is necessary to observe personal safety measures, as well as use scaffolding and rope insurance.

At the construction site there should always be a first aid kit with first aid for wounds and bleeding. Sometimes the chimney is not located in the center of the room, but is in contact with the load-bearing wall. This situation is often observed during the construction of fireplaces. In this case, you can use the wall structure of the chimney. It is pre-installed during the construction of the main wall. It is appropriate to note here that among stove makers there is a common classification of chimneys according to design characteristics:

1. Brick overlays. Chimneys installed directly on the stove masonry.
2. Brick indigenous. Pipes located separately from the furnace, standing on a separate foundation. They have the shape of a riser.
3. Prefabricated. Individual blocks made of refractory concrete that are stacked at the site where the chimney is installed.
4. Wall. They are built into a load-bearing wall, significantly saving space and volume of premises. However, it should be taken into account that it is not advisable to install wall pipes in external walls. Contact with cold outside air sharply reduces the efficiency of such a chimney in terms of heat transfer.

In wooden houses, the junction of the pipe with the combustible elements of the building is accompanied by a thickening of 1–1.5 bricks. To avoid fire, joints are additionally laid with asbestos or felt sheets. The felt is pre-soaked in a liquid clay solution.

Step-by-step instructions for building a brick chimney

The construction of a chimney involves laying bricks in strict accordance with the plan for the arrangement of material in each row - the order. This plan must be drawn up when preparing a project for the construction of a smoke exhaust duct.

Each row of chimney masonry has a strictly defined arrangement of bricks

We can only add that for the best bonding of bricks with mortar, it is recommended to adhere to the following installation settings:

1. The mortar is applied in a layer of 1.5–2 cm, the brick is wetted and coated with the mortar. After installing the masonry in place, the brick is pressed down so that the final thickness of the seam is 1 cm.

   When laying each brick, it is necessary to check its position horizontally and vertically, and also maintain a joint thickness of 1 cm

2. As the masonry progresses (after 5–6 rows), it is recommended to do mopping - grouting the seams between the bricks inside the chimney duct. A smooth internal surface will ensure good passage of exhaust gases and reduce the risk of soot deposits. Grouting can be done with a wet cloth.

   Internal seams are leveled and rubbed with mortar as the masonry progresses.

3. The installation of a smoke damper is usually carried out between the second and third rows of bricks. But this is not a strict rule - you can adjust the installation location depending on the situation. Immediately after installation, the valve is closed so that the cement mortar does not fall into the furnace.

   A separate valve is installed for each smoke channel

4. In the external masonry - on the roof - a mortar with increased strength and moisture resistance characteristics is used. To do this, the mixing proportion is changed, increasing the cement content (instead of 1/4, make 1/3). Moreover, the cement selected is grade M 500 or M 600. For the head, not a cement-sand composition, but a cement-clay composition is often used. It is made by adding 1 liter of cement to 10 liters of sand-clay mortar, which is used for laying the furnace.

   When using hollow bricks, the internal cavities are filled with cement mortar

5. It is important to keep the solution clean. It is unacceptable for debris, especially of organic origin, to get into it.
6. Straight sections of the chimney are laid out plumb. To do this, strong silk threads are pulled in each corner and aligned vertically. The right angle is controlled using a square every 4-5 rows.

   It is convenient to control the vertical position of the chimney walls using cords stretched in each of the four corners

Video: DIY chimney for a fireplace

Insulating the chimney pipe avoids the formation of condensation on its internal walls

Three main methods of insulation are used:

1. Plastering. The simplest and most accessible method that does not require special skills. It consists of applying several layers of slag-lime mortar to the chimney, which, when hardened, forms a strong protective “coat”. To strengthen the adhesion of the plaster to the masonry, use a metal mesh, securing it to the pipe with anchor nails. After applying 3-4 layers (with drying intervals), the insulated surface is covered with whitewash or lime. As practice has shown, such protection can reduce the heat transfer of a pipe by 20–25%. This method is fast and does not require large financial costs.

   After covering the chimney with several layers of plaster, its heat loss is reduced by 20–25%

2. Insulation using wooden boards. You will need boards 30–40 mm thick. A wooden frame is mounted around the entire chimney (from the otter to the cap) and completely sheathed with boards. The wood is protected from above with slate. The distance between the brickwork and the boards (5–7 cm) is filled with any non-flammable insulation - earth, sand or mineral wool. To prevent the insulation from spilling out, the gaps between the boards are covered with plastic film or puttied with sealant. This method is effective in regions of the steppe zone, where dry winds often blow and prolonged rains are rare.

   Non-flammable insulation is placed in the gaps between the pipe and the wooden frame

3. The third method requires certain expenses. It consists in the fact that the pipe walls are insulated with mineral wool, which is resistant to solar radiation. The best option is basalt wool, which has very low thermal conductivity. A layer of adhesive is applied to the chimney, to which basalt slabs are attached. For good adhesion, the entire insulation mass is fixed with plumbing tape and covered with reinforced polypropylene film. After the glue has completely dried, the cotton wool is covered with grainy facade paint using a painting mesh. Another option is siding or cladding with profiled metal sheets. This pipe insulation allows you to retain up to 50% of the heat inside the chimney duct. And, as a result, ensure the absence of condensation on the internal walls.

   Features of the operation of brick chimneys

   After the construction of the chimney is completed and the pipe has been successfully put into operation, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the features of using a brick stove. In order for the heating unit to serve for a long time and without accidents, it is necessary to follow simple but important rules.

   1. The main enemy of brick is sudden temperature changes. It is better to heat more often, but for short periods of time. It is not recommended to make more than 2 fuel loads per firebox. This is especially true for coal, the combustion temperature of which exceeds 1000 degrees.
   2. Timely cleaning of the pipe from soot unlimitedly extends the service life of the chimney duct.
   3. If cracks occur on the stove body and chimney in particular, measures should be taken immediately to eliminate them. Neglected cracks tend to progress quickly and pose a threat not only to the integrity of the brickwork, but also to human health. Carbon monoxide, which is colorless and odorless, but poisonous to all living things, penetrates into the living space through small cracks.
   4. The slightest malfunction in the doors of the firebox or ash chamber (ash chamber) first significantly reduces the heat transfer of the stove, and then leads to an avalanche-like accumulation of soot on the chimney channels. If you find a door, view or valve that does not close tightly, you should immediately repair or replace it.
   5. At least once a year it is necessary to carry out preventative maintenance on the furnace. It is best to do this at the end of summer, before the start of the heating season. A daily preventative procedure includes opening the blower door for 15–20 minutes. This simple action will allow you to briefly create maximum draft, which will pull the soot deposited on the walls into the external environment.
   6. The use of damp firewood has an adverse effect on the cleanliness of smoke ducts, especially in winter. It is more rational to use fuel briquettes, the humidity of which is much lower. Firewood should be prepared ahead of time - drying wood naturally is a long process (from a year to two).

   Chimney cleaning and repair

   To clean pipes, both traditional methods and modern ones based on technological progress are used.

   From time immemorial, stove maintenance was carried out by people whose profession was called chimney sweep. Today, finding a professional chimney sweep is problematic. They were replaced by chemical agents, which, however, are also often called “Chimney Sweep”.

   Finding a professional chimney sweep today is very difficult; this profession is a thing of the past.

   Thus, a product called “Log Chimney Sweeper” has proven itself well. It contains copper sulfate salts and other active chemical compounds. Burning in the firebox, the vapors of these substances interact with carbon deposits deposited on the walls of the pipe. Under the influence of heat, the reaction continues for several weeks and leads to the fact that the solid structure of the soot crumbles and, falling back into the firebox, burns. According to manufacturers, using “miracle logs” twice a year allows you to completely remove soot from the pipe. The consequence of this is good draft and a high percentage of heat transfer from the furnace.

   Manufacturers of the “Log Chimney Sweeper” product claim that its use twice a year allows you to completely clean the chimney of soot

   Among the folk remedies, one can note such effective methods of prevention as burning salt or soda once every 2 months (about 0.5 kg per firebox). The powder is poured into the combustion chamber at the moment when the firewood is well lit and the temperature is at its maximum. After this, you need to close all the doors tightly, as the reaction can be quite violent.

   Dry aspen firewood helps clean the chimney well. The fact is that aspen burns with a large release of heat, the flames are long and penetrate deeply into the passages.

   If there is no aspen or soda, you can use potato peelings. To do this, you need to accumulate about half a bucket of potato peels. When burned in a firebox, the released substances bind the soot and cause it to burn to the end.

   The combustion temperature of aspen firewood reaches 800 degrees, so the soot on the walls of the chimney burns out

   When performing work on installing chimneys, especially in the area of ​​installation of the neck, otter and cap, you should carefully observe safety standards. If you work carefully and follow the necessary instructions and technologies, you can easily build a brick chimney with your own hands.

Chimneys for stoves are the main detail in any heated structure. If the structure is installed incorrectly, a fire or carbon monoxide poisoning may occur, so it is assembled in accordance with fire safety standards and requirements.

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Designed to remove harmful combustion products from the room, so no heating system can do without it. In addition, it supplies the firebox with oxygen. There are several types of chimneys, which are classified according to the location of the system structure and material:

1. Brick. Structures made from ceramic bricks are highly resistant to mechanical stress and have high heat capacity. The heated chimney remains warm for a long time, keeping the room warm.
2. Steel. The design of this material consists of several modules, it includes sections of pipes, tees and glasses for collecting condensate. The single-circuit product is made of heat-resistant stainless steel and has a long service life.
3. Sandwich chimneys. The design consists of two pipes: a larger and a smaller diameter. A product of small diameter is installed in a large one, and insulation is laid between them. Such sandwich systems have low thermal conductivity, which allows them to be installed outside the house.
4. Corrugated. This is a flexible type of chimney that is used in brick structures to line curved channels. It is made of steel tape, is easy to install and has an unlimited service life.
5. Polymer. This is a flexible chimney made of polymer material. It is used for brick and concrete structures where the flue gases are not too hot.

Chimney requirements

The chimney must meet all requirements and fully comply with the technical characteristics of the heating device. When designing them, you should follow the basic installation rules, then the system will work efficiently and uninterruptedly:

1. The design of the pipe is designed in such a way that dust and combustion waste often accumulate in its corners. Therefore, when installing, it is worth choosing round-shaped models, this will allow for less frequent cleaning. Rectangular and square models require more frequent maintenance.
2. The cross-sectional diameter of the pipe must be greater than the diameter of the heating device pipe. For a high-quality level of traction per 1 kW of power, a product with a cross-section of 8 cm² is required. The exact size of the chimney required for the heating device can be found in the instructions supplied with it.
3. If the heating device operates without a chimney, then the device and the pipe are placed at different heights. The width between connecting points should be 1 m and above. In this case, the cross-sectional size of the pipe must correspond to the total power of the heat generator.
4. The traction force will decrease several times if the total length exceeds 1 m.
5. On a flat roof, the pipe is erected 0.5 m above the surface level, on a standard roof - 0.5-1.5 m above the ridge level.

Chimney device

The design of any chimney consists of a vertical pipe. The design of chimneys in a stove with a standard brick duct is completely different in design features from factory modular products. The design of the chimney depending on the material:

1. Standard brick ones consist of: a neck, a slope, a riser, a valve, an otter, a headband and a steel cap.
2. Metal and asbestos-cement consist of: a pipe, a cap, insulation and an adapter with which it is connected to the stove.

Also, the furnace system has complex components. These are places where the chimney passes through the roof, attic and interfloor ceilings. When arranging it, the main thing is to properly design these areas.

Which chimney is better: brick or metal?

The design of the chimney is chosen depending on the parameters of the heating device, the level of preparedness of the house and the heated area. The most suitable design is one that can operate efficiently, safely and economically. The difference between metal chimneys for stoves and brick ones:

1. Bricks are a heavy material, so a foundation is laid under the structure. Making a brick structure yourself is difficult, and requires the help of highly qualified masons. Installation of wall structures is done at the initial stage of building a house.
2. Steel structures are cheaper than bricks and have increased thermal conductivity compared to brick buildings. Therefore, metal chimneys require additional insulation. Steel has good resistance to corrosion and condensation. Installing a chimney of this type is easy, and you can do all the work yourself.

Installation rules

When building a chimney for a stove with your own hands, you must comply with all building codes and requirements. Failure to comply with the rules can result in serious consequences: costly alteration of the structure or fire. Installation rules:

1. The chimney channels are located in the external walls of the structure, which are made of non-combustible material. If there are no walls, then chimney nozzles are used. A separate pipe or channel is made for each furnace. If there are 2 stoves on the same floor, then they are connected to one pipe. To properly connect 2 channels, you need to make cuts: 0.12 m thick, more than 1 m high from the bottom of the pipe connection.
2. The pipe design is done vertically without ledges. A small level of deviation of 30° is allowed, slope - up to 1 m. All inclined places must be smooth.
3. If the roof of the house is made of flammable material, then the chimney is equipped with a spark arrester made of metal mesh.
4. The structure, made of flammable material and adjacent to the walls of the furnace, ventilation duct and chimney, is protected with non-combustible materials. If voids have formed between the walls and partitions, they are filled with refractory material.
5. There should be a distance of 130 mm or more between concrete and brick chimneys and combustible roofing elements. From a ceramic structure that does not have insulation - 250 mm.

Tools and materials

In addition to the standard set of components, the following tools and materials will be needed for installation:

• fasteners;
• wall brackets;
• asbestos sheets;
• couplings;
• clamps;
• sealant;
• marker.

Installation stages

Before installing the stove, chimney and other elements, prepare a diagram and determine how many pipe segments are needed. The assembly of the structure occurs in stages:

1. To protect sections of the wall behind the chimney and the floor behind the stove from heat, asbestos sheets are laid.
2. The first fragment of the pipe is connected to the furnace pipe. Installing an adapter or seal will help eliminate gaps that form at the joints. The joints are sealed with a metal clamp and fire-resistant sealant.
3. To ensure free passage of smoke, each pipe fragment is placed on the lower one. If sandwich pipes are being installed, then parts of the internal circuit are inserted into the module located below, and the external circuit is inserted vice versa.
4. The overlap between the pipes should be a quarter of the radius. Connecting joints should not be allowed to be located between floor and roof floors. Otherwise, it will be difficult to tighten them with clamps and seal them.
5. If you connect the modules with a swivel elbow, the pipe can be rotated to the required position. The swivel elbow is installed at an angle of 45-90°.
6. The installed pipe is covered with a seal that will protect it from water.

Then the structure is raised to the required height, and a protective umbrella is mounted on top. The pipe outlet area is decorated with a decorative apron to match the roof.