Correct and timely pruning of cherries guarantees a bountiful harvest. Formation of cherries using the Spanish bush method Pruning cherries using the Spanish bush method

Cherry crown formation

Before choosing a specific cherry production system, such as stop leader, Spanish bush, Brunner spindle, Vogel leader crown form, it is worth familiarizing yourself with basic information about the reaction of trees to the mentioned orchard retention methods.

Excessive growth
This is the main problem when growing cherries. By nature, cherry trees are very vigorous. Without human intervention, the breed forms long shoots with a small number of lateral branches. Therefore, a traditional, rather than intensive, garden is more like a wood factory than a fruit factory.
The most popular way to limit the vigor of trees is to prune them. However, when formed at the wrong time, for example during the dormant period, it can lead not only to the growth of more shoots, but also to slow down the entry of trees into the fruiting period. Therefore, the energy of the tree will then be directed to the growth of shoots, and not to the formation of flower buds.
If such pruning is applied, then trees grafted on traditional rootstocks, such as bird cherry seedlings, rarely begin to bear fruit earlier in the fourth or fifth year from the establishment of the orchard. Factors that increase the vigor of tree growth and at the same time delay the formation of flower buds are fertile, nutrient-rich soils and excessive (generous) fertilizers. To minimize these unhelpful phenomena, cherries at a young age must be pruned very skillfully, preferably in the summer after harvesting, but not very intensively.
But in the spring, more effort must be devoted to bending the shoots rather than shortening them, since cherries tend to form branches extending from the conductor at sharp angles. If the angles of departure are sharp, then the tissue dies in the branches, and the connection of the branch with the conductor becomes weak, often resulting in the splitting of the branches. Also in those places there are very favorable conditions for the development of bacterial cancer.
When pruning and shaping trees, it should be remembered that sweet cherries produce the best fruits at the base of one-year-old shoots, on two- and three-year-old branches and on short fruiting branches. Therefore, the gardener must grow the tree so that it has the greatest number of young shoots up to 30 cm long.

The role of low-growing rootstocks
The introduction of dwarf rootstocks such as GiSeLA 5 or P-HL A has completely changed the physiology of the trees. If you plant a garden with such trees, then satisfactory harvests can be obtained already in the third year from planting.
Thanks to the use of low-growing rootstocks, pruning and shaping cherry trees, taking into account the weak growth of their branches and the formation of wide angles by the branches with the conductor, has become even easier. The small size of dwarf cherries brings significant economic benefits. In the case of using low-growing rootstocks, labor costs for pruning and crown formation, as well as for harvesting fruits, are significantly lower than when using trees on vigorous rootstocks. It should also be noted that, given the smaller size of the crowns, protective spraying becomes easier and more effective.

Choosing a content system

The tree management system includes various pruning and crown shaping techniques. For each system, brief recommendations have been developed on when and what needs to be done to get the desired effect.
The choice of crown management system depends on a number of factors, such as growing conditions, variety, rootstock, access to labor and cost of work, and also (this is very important and often forgotten by cherry growers) the knowledge and skills of the gardener. Even before planting a garden, you need to choose a system from which the application of appropriate techniques will subsequently flow. How the tree reacts largely depends on pruning techniques. You need to ask yourself: “Do I have the appropriate knowledge, skills and experience to properly manage a cherry orchard?” If you don’t have the knowledge and skills, then find out if there is an opportunity to take advantage of professional counseling. Mistakes in tree maintenance, especially those made in the first years of planting, cannot be corrected in the future.
Below is a simplified description of what you can expect after performing a specific pruning or crown shaping operation.

Shortening annual growth
This pruning method encourages the formation of lateral branches. Reducing annual growth with varying intensity is used in all methods of cherry formation, but most of all it is typical for the extensive formation systems of the Spanish bush and stop-leader, especially in the first years after planting. This operation slows down the formation of flower buds and, consequently, the entry of trees into the fruiting period.

Shortening old branches
This method of pruning also stimulates the formation of side shoots, but it does not slow down the onset of fruiting in trees. With this pruning technique, some of the buds are removed along with the branches, reducing the yield of the trees. On the other hand, this allows you to get great results. This method is used in all systems, especially in rigid (elastic) and vertical branches, as well as branches that hang too much and thicken the crown.

Anti-aging pruning
Allows you to renew branches in the crown - old ones replace young ones. There are two methods of anti-aging pruning. According to the first, the branches are cut into cells ranging from 2-3 to several centimeters in length. This is done when the branch has no side shoots. Subsequently, from the shoots growing from the cell, the one that will replace the cut branch is selected. This pruning method is used in all shaping methods for crown rejuvenation and if the goal is to obtain high quality fruits. The second method of anti-aging pruning is typical primarily for the leader form of the Vogel crown, but it is also used for the formation of feet - the leader. The method is that during the period when a new shoot on the branch that we want to cut begins to grow upward, this branch is cut off several cells from the beginning of this shoot. When using this technique, you need to make sure that the tip of the new shoot is located above the left chop. This will prevent the growth of strong vertical shoots, and the left shoot will grow weakly and in a horizontal direction and will eventually replace the eliminated branch.

Bruner method
Created in Hungary. It consists of combining two pruning methods and aims to limit the growth force of young trees. First, the vigorous vertical shoot and the neighboring, weaker ones with a tendency to grow horizontally are reduced. Their goal is to redirect the growth energy from the thin shoot in the direction of the rough one. When new growths on a strong shortened shoot reach a length of 20-25 cm, it is completely eliminated. This technique allows you to get rid of too strong shoots without stimulating excessive growth of newly formed shoots. The method can be applied in the leader and Spanish bush stop systems.

Lightening pruning
It consists of removing branches from the middle of the crown so as to increase the access of light. In shaded areas, flower buds do not set and the branches dry out. This method of pruning only slightly affects the vigor of new shoots and does not slow down their fruiting. Can be used in all forming systems.

Bending branches
The primary goal is to increase the angles between the branches and the conductor and strengthen the crown structure. In addition, this technique increases the penetration of light to the middle of the crown and accelerates the entry of trees into the fruiting period. In the leader and Spanish bush stop systems, toothpicks are often used to obtain wide branching angles, inserting them between the shoot and the guide. With the leader form of the Vogel crown, goals are achieved with the help of clothespins. Both toothpicks and clothespins are placed when the shoots are about 10 cm long. Later, special clamps can be used. To obtain the correct angles, young branches are bent and tied with ropes to anchors (pegs) or to wires that run along the row.

Summer trimmings
Can be used in any system, but is recommended mainly for the Spanish bush and the leader form of the Vogel crown. It is also recommended in areas with cool climates, where spring pruning of cherries is associated with the risk of gum leakage and bacterial canker damage. Compared to dormant pruning, it limits tree vigor and promotes flower bud formation. In the case of cherries on weak-growing rootstocks, it may cause too much fruit to set on the tree, unnecessarily affect the quality of the fruit, or lead to too much growth restriction. Therefore, you should carefully monitor the growth rate of trees in the garden and balance summer and spring pruning.

Cutting branches
This is another way to encourage shoots to form side branches - they are cut with a knife above the bud from which you want the shoot to grow. The depth of the cut should be 1/3-1/2 of the thickness of the branch.

Promalin
Agricultural practices using promalin are quite common in the USA. American farmers use this drug to produce side branches in the desired location. In the form of a paste, it is applied to annual growths in the bud bursting phase. To get a good effect, it is advisable to cover not only the bud with the paste, but also the entire surface of the shoot on which new growth should appear. The use of proraspberry is not mandatory in any tree production system, but may be beneficial in some cases, especially for varieties with poor lateral shoot ability, such as Lapins, where standard methods do not work.

Cherry is a welcome guest in our gardens. This berry plant is responsive to a high level of agricultural technology, including proper pruning.

Why is cherry pruning necessary?

Sweet cherries and their hybrids with cherries (cherries, dukis) by their nature are not bushes, but trees that tend to grow strongly upward. This feature is not always convenient for garden crops.

The cherry tree has grown in height. This is not very convenient!

In addition, free-growing cherries become uncontrollably thickened or exposed.. The main fruiting of cherries is concentrated on bouquet branches; they form on two-year-old wood and are viable for more than ten years, but only in favorable conditions. Without the necessary pruning, cultivated plants quickly become unproductive.

Tall Tree Problems

• The plant takes up a lot of space and shades the garden.
• A tall tree is not easy to harvest.
• Berries are difficult to protect from bird invasion.
• Insect pests and diseases are difficult to control.
• It is problematic to control the exposure of some areas of the crown and the thickening of others.

Consequences of thickening

Thickened cherries are more often affected by fungal diseases.

• poor lighting inside,
• death of part of the bouquet branches,
• poor ventilation,
• activation of infections,
• deterioration in fruit quality,
• reduction in the number of ovaries,
• general drop in yield.

Experienced gardeners know that Cherry pruning is a must . The difficulty is that this is not a one-time procedure. You can’t give up the formation halfway. The tree responds to pruning with vigorous growth, so regular adjustments are needed. The video will help you examine in detail all the intricacies of pruning cherries, but first you need to understand the principles of this work.

Timing of pruning

When is it better to prune cherries - in spring or autumn? The main one is spring pruning, but summer and autumn work is also carried out.

Spring

Spring wounds heal faster.

Spring pruning is carried out before the leaves bloom.

After the snow melts, they first make sanitary cuttings of branches damaged during the winter. Then, before the buds swell, basic formative and corrective pruning is performed. It is not recommended to inflict wounds too early, while it is cold.

Waiting for spring warmth , but work before the start of sap flow. Sometimes the deadline is moved forward a little, carrying out work on the awakened tree in order to assess the strength of the buds.

Summer

Summer pruning is considered necessary to maintain some bush-like formations, but in regions with cold winters it can be dangerous: late-grown shoots ripen poorly and freeze out.

Summer pruning is more suitable for southern regions.

If the gardener has the time and desire, then in the summer they carry out green operations - regular pinching of unnecessary young shoots (tops, sprouts inside the crown, etc.). Small plant wounds heal faster than subsequent large cuts. But in the northern regions you should not get too carried away with this procedure– act competently, without provoking the growth of shoots that do not have time to become lignified.

Autumn

Autumn pruning is carried out immediately after leaf fall for sanitary purposes: broken, diseased, old branches are removed.

This work should not be delayed, because autumn wounds heal more slowly, and the tree must have time to recover by winter.

Winter

In winter, cherries are not pruned.

Types and purposes of formation

Crown formation includes four main types of work: pruning, pinching, blinding buds, and pulling back branches.

• Trimming involves sawing or cutting off branches (full or partial) using a saw, knife, or pruning shears.
• Pinching made with fingers; at the same time, the unripe (green) part of the shoot is removed. Pinching is considered the least traumatic for the plant.
• Kidney blindness – this is their removal (with a knife or fingers).
• Guy– a forced change of direction for a branch or escape. This is done by placing clothespins and other spacers, hanging weights, tying ropes to pegs, etc.

Goals

General principles of cherry pruning.

1. Height reduction- pruning to reduce upward growth.
2. Crown diameter adjustment(outer contour).
3. Thinning and preventing thickening(internal space).
4. Caring for skeletal strength.
5. Strengthening growth processes or, conversely, an increase in the number of fruit buds (a significant part of the cherry harvest is formed on bouquet branches).

Pruning is the main method of forming cherries, and other methods are accompanying and auxiliary.

Types of pruning

The main types of cherry pruning.

Sweet cherries need annual attention.

Pruning happens:

• formative (first 3–5 years);
• corrective – to maintain the shape of the plant and its productivity;
• sanitary(regular removal of broken and diseased branches);
• rejuvenating (as needed, approximately once every 5 years).

Signals for rejuvenation

Another type of pruning is thinning a neglected mature tree. This event cannot be carried out at once: the plant may respond with compensation - uncontrolled growth; The death of the tree from extensive wounds is also possible. They work in several stages (sometimes 2-3 years), keeping the desired result in mind. The main period is spring before the buds open.

Pruning rules

Trimming begins with preparing the tool.

It is necessary to protect plantings from the formation of hollows and avoid unnecessary tearing of the bark.

Saw cuts and large sections are covered (with garden varnish, oil paint on drying oil, etc.).

Basic crown forms

When planting cherries, the gardener needs to decide what he wants to see in the future. This affects both the distance between seedlings and the early stage of formation.

All pruning work depends on the CROWN SHAPE that the gardener chooses for the CHERRY.

The main types of crowns of cherry trees.

Things to consider:

• climatic conditions of the region,
• microclimate of the site,
• characteristics of the variety,
• the gardener's capabilities (for example, the amount of time and assistants for work),
• economic tasks (planting for the needs of the family or plantation for the purpose of selling berries).

Cultural forms of cherry plants

When shaped like a tree, the bush looks like a wild plant.

Gardeners have come up with many design options, but they all boil down to two main ones - tree-like and bush-like.

• Tree-like the shape is close to natural. It assumes the presence of one central conductor trunk (leader). Varieties: sparse-tiered, spindle, Vogel system, etc.
• Bush-like (bush, multi-leader, multi-leader) formation artificially turns a tree into a bush. Varieties: fan, triangle, bowl (vase), Australian bush, Spanish bush and its variant KGB (KGB, Kim Green Bush, Kim Green Bush), etc.

Columnar varieties have their own specific formation, whose viability and productivity have yet to be tested in a continental climate.

Advantages and disadvantages of formations

The bush form is more convenient for pruning and harvesting, but requires constant care of the crown.

Both bush and tree cherries have their pros and cons.

Positive aspects of the bush (with proper formation):

1. Compactness.
2. Higher planting density.
3. Increased productivity due to better lighting, active planting of bouquet branches, enlargement of berries, and greater yield from the area.
4. Availability of branches during harvesting and processing.
5. Possibility of adding a net to protect crops from birds.

Bush problems:

1. The bushy shape, unnatural for a tree, requires constant support.
2. After active summer pruning (sometimes necessary for shaping), the regrown young shoots do not always have time to become lignified and risk freezing in winter (in cold areas).
3. In areas with spring frosts, the soil zone suffers more than the treetops. Buds and flowers survive frosts better in the upper part of the tree crown.

On the other hand, you can try to protect a low bush from frost by covering it with agrofibre.

Regional aspect

The bush-like formation of cherries is a fashion trend that is gaining popularity. However, he has opponents.

In fruit-growing farms in the southern regions, bush-shaped cherries are more often used.

Cherry is a southern crop, and its advancement to the north faces certain difficulties. Breeders are developing more winter-hardy varieties of cherries and cherry trees, but issues of shaping and pruning remain controversial.

In Southern Europe, the benefits of the bush are noticeable: perhaps they are important for the North Caucasus, Krasnodar Territory, the south of the Black Earth Region, the Lower Volga region and other warm regions. But in Nizhny Novgorod there are already disputes: some gardeners are introducing the Australian bush or KGB, others prefer the sparsely-tiered (tree-like) option.

This question is even more ambiguous for the Non-Black Earth Region(including the Moscow region), North-West, Urals and Siberia.

Pruning by year

Pruning schemes for cherries can be different, and their choice depends on the planned shape of the crown.

Scheme of pruning cherries by year.

Pruning in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th year of the plant’s life is mainly formative; in the future, corrective and sanitary measures are needed; with age, rejuvenation may be required (for tree-shaped cherries - usually once every 5-6 years).

Signals for rejuvenation

1. Decreased productivity.
2. Lack of good annual growth.
3. Excessive sparseness or thickening of the crown.

Pruning work begins from the very first spring in the life of the cherry tree on the site.

Sparse-tiered tree-like formation

The goal is to get a slender, moderately tall (3–4.5 meters) tree with evenly spaced branches that do not shade each other.

The principle of the formation of a sparse-tiered crown.

The length of the trunk from the ground to the first branch is approximately 0.65 m. The height of the tree is adjusted regularly. The distance between seedlings is at least 4–5 meters.

A formed fruit-bearing tree has one main trunk and one main top, as well as several tiers (usually no more than 3) of skeletal branches. In the first tier there are 4 skeletal branches, in the subsequent one - 3, then 2. On the skeletal ones there are branches of the second order (semi-skeletal) with small further branches.

1. In the first spring One-year-old seedlings are pruned, leaving the height from the ground 70–100 cm. Over the summer, side shoots grow. (If the seedling is weak and short, then in the first year it is not pruned, but allowed to grow and become stronger; formation begins the next year.)
2. In the second spring 3-4 branches are left (branching evenly, preferably at obtuse angles to the trunk) - these are the future skeletal branches of the first tier. The central conductor is also preserved, and the remaining shoots are cut out entirely into a ring. The remaining branches are cut by a third (or leaving them about 60 cm long) for branching. The height of the central conductor above the upper side branch should not exceed 100 cm (the excess is cut off). Over the summer, shoots for the second tier grow at the top.
3. For the third spring form a second tier, leaving 3 branches in it, the rest are removed completely, into a ring. It is advisable that the skeletal branches of the second tier do not shade the lower one. The distance between the second and third tier should be 50–80 cm. If the branches of the lower tier have given an increase of 60 cm, it is shortened by a third. The branches of the second tier are pruned so that they are shorter than the first 10–15 cm.
4. For the fourth spring lay the third tier according to the same rule as the second. The central conductor is cut to a height of half a meter from the third tier, moving the top to a weak side branch. The third tier should be shorter than the central conductor by 20 cm.

A pyramidal crown is formed.

• In subsequent years, in the fall or spring, shoots growing inside the crown or at the intersection of other branches are removed.
• Skeletal branches are shortened, leaving them no more than 60–75 cm. Small growth does not need to be trimmed, but annual growth of more than half a meter is shortened by a third.
• Over the years, when growth weakens (less than 30 cm per season), rejuvenating pruning is carried out 2–3 year old wood , on an older tree – on 5–6 year old wood .
• The height of the cherry is kept within 4.5 meters, periodically cutting the conductor and transferring it to a weak side branch. If the top is removed completely, to the level of the upper tier, then powerful processes of spinning (growth of long shoots directed upwards inside the crown) and thickening will begin; it's difficult to deal with them.

The cherry tree needs moderation. Weak pruning will unnecessarily slow down growth processes, and strong pruning will provoke excessively active growth.

Bowl (vase) – bush form with tree elements

On a trunk 60 cm high sits a bush consisting of three powerful branches, each of which is like an independent tree with its own top. The lateral branches (tiers) of each tree are directed mainly outward and are located almost horizontally. Total height – up to 4 m.

1. In the spring of the first year, an annual seedling is pruned at a meter height . Among the awakening buds, a group of the three strongest ones is selected, located at a distance of 20 cm from each other. They are left and the remaining buds are removed. A smooth stem is needed from below, and a small piece of the trunk (thorn) is left on top, which will be removed later. As the side shoots grow, a clothespin is temporarily attached to the top of the spine, positioned horizontally. It will force the upper shoot to grow not upward, but slightly to the side. Similarly, place clothespins over the other two shoots. Later, these branches are pulled back with the help of weights or tied with twine to pegs driven into the ground. The tops of the shoots should point slightly upward. By autumn it is desirable to obtain a unique bowl shape; auxiliary devices can be removed when not needed.

   Pruning in the second year.

2. In the spring of the third year, each trunk forms as an independent tree . The lower outer branch, which had grown by the autumn of last season, is pulled back (with a weight or tied to a peg) almost horizontally; the tip is trimmed so that the length of the branch does not exceed 90 cm. The remaining branches are shortened to a length of 50 cm.

   Pruning in the fourth year.

The upper tier should be shorter than the lower one so as not to shade it. Subsequently, the height of the crown (each of the three) is regularly reduced by pruning it to a weak lateral branch. Strong lateral growths are shortened by a third, long branches are pruned to the lower weak branching. Thick branches growing inside the crown are cut into a ring. As the tree ages, each of the three trunks is replaced in turn with a new one, leaving a strong young branch for this.

Australian Bush, Spanish Bush and Kim Green Bush (KGB)

The “Australian bush” formation is characterized by a low plant height.

The bush forms are similar to a bowl, only the trunk branches even lower, and the total height of the plant does not exceed 2–2.5 m. The design is based on 4 skeletal branches. Possible planting schemes: 5X2 m, 5X3 m, 3X4 m.

In the first spring, the seedling is pruned, leaving a height of about half a meter.

• The skeletal branches of the Australian bush initially form like a bowl. . In the spring of the second year, all buds directed into the crown are removed. Side shoots that grow at an acute angle are cut out; horizontal ones are left. In the third year, the branches growing on last year's ones are pinched off when they reach 8 cm. Subsequently, they maintain compact dimensions in width and height, cutting off and pinching out all excess. After five years of fruiting, the skeletal branches are gradually replaced by young ones. The plant resembles a sparse bush with four strong branches.
• Kim Green Bush (KGB) – multi-leader formation . A fruiting plant looks like a bush with equal branches, the number of which is from 12 to 20 pieces (on average - 16). With the gradual formation of KGB, 4 strong shoots grow by the first autumn. In the spring of the second year, they are cut short, leaving stumps of only 10–15 cm. By the autumn of the second year, 2 powerful branches should grow on each of the four stumps (total 8 per bush). All excess shoots are plucked out when they are green, keeping an eye on this throughout the summer. In the third spring, the operation is repeated, increasing 16 branches by the third autumn. The basic formation is completed. (Sometimes the process is accelerated by pruning not next spring, but in the summer. So by the end of the first season you get not 4, but 8 branches).

In the 4th spring, all of last year's (one-year) growth is cut by a quarter. In addition, the first rejuvenation is carried out: one of the four leaders is removed and a new one begins to grow. This is done every year. There are no branches that are too old in a bush. Excessive thickening is not allowed when performing summer green operations of pinching and pruning.

Various flat crown shapes (fan, triangle, etc.) are original and compact, but they require constant care and undying enthusiasm.

Cherry is a fruit tree that needs to be formed from the very first week of planting. If you bought an annual cherry seedling with a height of 70-80 cm, then it needs to be pruned to 40 cm. The traditional way to form a tree is layered pruning. With this method of formation, two tiers of skeletal branches are left. The first tier is laid 15-20 cm above the grafting. The second is 20-25 cm above the first tier of skeletal branches.

Some gardeners cut annual seedlings to 60 cm and leave three tiers of skeletal branches. There are disadvantages to such tiered pruning. A cherry tree with two tiers of branches grows up to 5 m in height by 10 years of age, and if you leave three tiers, then by this time the tree will reach sizes up to 8 m in height, and it will be difficult to harvest from the upper tier. In addition, if you leave three tiers of skeletal branches, the cherries will bear less fruit.

When does a tree begin to bear fruit?

As a rule, cherries begin to bear fruit at the age of four, but the entry of cherries into fruiting can be accelerated by mulching the tree trunk and pruning it correctly.

It will begin to bear fruit earlier if it is planted in the spring in a well-prepared planting hole, filling it with humus. It is necessary to add mineral fertilizers to the soil when planting. Cherries are particularly susceptible to potassium deficiency.

Correct tier formation

Tiered crown formation is carried out in the spring. It is easier to form the crown of a young seedling, since its branches bend well and can be directed in any direction. If young branches grow at too sharp an angle, then they do not need to be trimmed - using ordinary clothespins you can direct the branch horizontally. A clothespin is hung on the trunk, which prevents the branch from returning to its original position.

Cherry pruning

In the first two years after planting, cherries must be pruned. All shoots coming from the rootstock are removed, since the cultivated variety is grafted onto the “wild” one. If shoots sprout from the rootstock, they will take over all the nutrients, and the scion may die. All cherry shoots located between the tiers of skeletal branches are trimmed. Also, in the first year after planting, all young shoots on skeletal branches are removed.

It often happens that seedlings are sold without a clearly defined central shoot. In this case, you need to create it yourself. To do this, you need to shorten the tallest shoot by 2-3 cm, and the side shoots by three buds.

Important nuances and the most common schemes for pruning cherries

With rare exceptions, cherry varieties zoned for cultivation in Russia, in particular the Moscow region, demonstrate excellent growth rates. Therefore, the fight against unwanted growth in the garden is slightly reminiscent of the battle of Hercules with the Lernaean Hydra. But inept actions will cause more harm to the tree than good. Therefore, it is important to know when and how to prune.

Why do you prune cherries?

The cherry harvest is highly dependent on care, including proper pruning.

Some gardeners, having planted a fruit tree seedling, do not consider it necessary to prune it, believing that nature knows better. This is a common misconception. Trees with a dense, sloppy crown have significantly fewer fruits than those that are cared for, and the taste of cherries cannot be compared at all.

In addition to the positive effect on the crop, pruning has other purposes:

Crown formation. The branches are cut not at random, but according to a certain pattern. The remaining ones are arranged in such a way that the fruits ripening on them receive the necessary heat and sunlight.
Prevention of many diseases caused by fungi and bacteria, control of harmful insects. The thinned crown is blown right through by the wind. Otherwise, stagnant humid air creates an ideal environment for the proliferation of pathogenic fungi and bacteria, eggs and insect larvae.
Increased cold resistance. The reason is the same - moist, cold air promotes the formation of condensation on the branches and trunk and the development of rot. A durable “skeleton” withstands the weight of snow much better.
Extending the life of a tree. Old, dried out, dead, disease- and pest-affected, or simply poorly placed branches take away nutrients from healthy fruit-bearing shoots.
Minimizing efforts aimed at tree care, pest control, and harvesting. This is especially true for older gardeners. Cherries that are too tall and spreading are physically impossible to care for. You won't be able to get to the berries either.
Cherry harvest
The cherry harvest depends on many factors, including correct, timely and regular pruning

What are the branches?

If you do not want to lose the harvest by removing all the branches on which fruit ovaries are formed, you need to know what shoots form on the cherry and whether they bear fruit. There are six types of shoots in total:

Growth. Only leaf and growth buds are formed on them. If you want to limit the growth of the tree, remove them in the fall so that in the spring the buds and future fruit ovaries receive enough nutrients.
Mixed. The thickest shoots. They have both leaves and fruits. They are critical for fruiting next season.
Bouquets. Short (no more than 30 cm) thin branches on which up to 90% of the berries ripen. In young trees, such branches are auxiliary - many small cherries are tied to them, most of which quickly fall off. For the first 4–5 years, their value lies in the densely located growth buds. During this time, they are cut off to stimulate further branching, then left alone.
Fruit (aka generative). Even shorter than bouquet ones (about 20 cm). Contrary to the name, they hardly bear fruit. The ripened cherries fall off almost immediately; the ripened ones are much inferior in size and taste to those picked from the bouquet branches. There is no need to cut them in the fall. Most likely, once they bring a “harvest”, they will die off on their own in the winter.
Tops. Thick, vertically growing branches that never bear fruit. If the tree was severely damaged by winter frosts, do not remove them next fall. This is a good base for starting to form a crown again.
Summer (or premature). Very thin branches that form during the season from growing points on mixed shoots. This year there will be no fruiting, they most likely will not survive until next summer.
The best time for the procedure

A tree that has suddenly lost a significant part of its green mass experiences severe stress from which it may not recover. Therefore, it is advisable to split the procedure into several stages.

Cherries cannot be pruned in winter. Even varieties released in temperate regions react negatively to cold. The wood becomes brittle, crumbles, and cuts do not heal for a long time. The only exception is rejuvenating pruning carried out every 5–7 years. For the procedure, choose, as far as possible, a warm February day. It’s easy to determine whether the time has come - the yield is noticeably reduced, the fruits become smaller

In the spring, you definitely need to catch it before the leaf buds come out of hibernation, but pruning cherries only when the temperature rises above zero at night. In this case, the injury to the tree will be minimal. Depending on the climate, the buds begin to swell from the second ten days of March to the first days of April. Spring is the best time for crown formation. Therefore, special attention is paid to skeletal branches. You also need to get rid of all frost-damaged shoots. If the tree has already begun to bear fruit steadily, the crown is thinned out, removing all poorly located shoots that thicken it. Basically they grow inward and downward. Under no circumstances cut off the very tips of the branches or touch the growth buds.

Not all gardeners recognize summer pruning. Opponents of this procedure believe that it severely injures the tree, forcing it to dramatically rearrange its sap flow patterns. But, in principle, there is nothing wrong with it. Before the onset of cold weather, properly made cuts will have time to heal.

The procedure is divided into two stages. The first time cherry trees are pruned immediately after they bloom (the first ten days of June). Last year's shoots are shortened, removing from a quarter to a third of the length. This stimulates the tree to further branch. If you see that the shoot is not growing as it should, pinch its tip. This minimal effort will help correct the direction of growth. The next pruning is 7–10 days after the end of fruiting.

Autumn pruning should be done before the end of September in temperate regions and until mid-October in warmer regions. If you delay, the cuttings will not have time to grow over before frost. Be sure to wait until the leaves fall. The main attention is paid to sanitary pruning - all branches that are broken, dried out, damaged by diseases and insects, and without fruit ovaries are cut off. You also need to get rid of shoots located at too sharp an angle to the trunk or vertically. This procedure significantly increases the frost resistance of cherries. Some gardeners prefer not to thin out the crown, but to shorten the branches. All annual shoots are cut by a third. Trees planted in spring in the fall of the same season are not touched.

It is best to use a garden saw in the fall. It causes less damage to the wood, and cuts heal faster than “wounds” from pruning shears.

How to form a tree correctly?

Pruning cherries is a procedure that takes into account many nuances, but it is in many ways similar to caring for cherries

Cherries can be pruned in different ways. It depends on the varietal characteristics. The most important thing is how tall the tree will grow, whether the crown is spreading and dense.

Popular pruning methods

Fan-shaped crown

To form a “fan” out of a tree, cherries are pruned annually in the spring. The crown takes on its proper appearance in the fourth season after planting; then you just need to maintain the achieved result. This option is suitable for short trees with a spreading crown, similar to a bush.

A year after planting, select two strong, straight branches growing opposite each other, cut the rest to the point of growth. The central shoot is also shortened to the place from which the one of the selected branches that is located above grows.
The future “ribs” of the fan are tied with a rope to pegs driven into the ground so that they extend from the trunk at an angle of 60–65º. If you can’t bend it right away, increase the angle gradually.
Next spring, the “ribs” are cut off, leaving about 0.3 m. All branches growing down and deep are cut off from them, only those that are well located are left. The growth buds are not touched.
In the third year, last year’s branches are shortened to a length of 0.45–0.5 m. The central shoot is cut off again, leaving no more than 0.3 m above the last suitable growth bud.
To maintain the chosen crown shape, each spring cut off branches that intertwine with others, growing inward and downward. After the cherry blossoms, all branches that do not have fruit ovaries (with the exception of the “ribs” of the fan) are shortened, leaving no more than 6 leaves. In mid-autumn, cut them back by 1/3. If the cherry tree grows next to a wall, fence, or other obstacle, you need to remove all the branches that rise above it.
Fan-shaped crown
A fan-shaped crown is best suited for low-growing cherry varieties

Bushy crown

This pruning is optimal for low-standard cherry varieties. Your task is to evenly place 10–14 fruiting branches on the shortened main shoot. A correctly formed crown resembles a ball.

The following spring, after planting, select 3-4 more or less symmetrically located branches and cut them off, leaving no more than 0.4 m (3-4 growth buds). The central conductor is cut to the point of growth of the last of them. If there are branches lower down the trunk, they are shortened to 0.25 m. They cannot be completely cut off yet - they strengthen the trunk. You will be able to get rid of these shoots only after 4–5 years, when the trunk reaches its optimal thickness.
After a year, all last year’s shoots are shortened by 10–15 cm. The previously selected branches are not touched.
In the spring of the third year, in addition to the already existing skeletal branches, 7–10 pieces are selected from those that are 2 years old. They all need to be shortened to a length of 0.6–0.75 m. The weaker and thinner side branches are cut off, leaving no more than three growth buds. Branches directed vertically upward are removed completely.
Bushy crown
In summer, the cherry tree with a bushy crown looks like a ball

Tiered crown

This is exactly what a classic tree should look like. The method is suitable for tall varieties of cherries with a not too thick crown.

A newly planted seedling is trimmed to a length of 1 m. If the tree is shorter, it is not touched.
Next spring, select 3-4 skeletal branches evenly spaced around the trunk, shortening them so that the tops are located approximately in the same plane. The central shoot is shortened again to 1 m if it has reached a greater length. The remaining branches are cut in half.
A year later, at a distance of at least 0.5 m (preferably 0.7 m) from the first, a second tier is laid, proceeding in a similar way. There should be one less branch on it (the same applies to the third tier).
On the lower tier, on each of the skeletal branches, three most well-placed branches growing upward are left. It is best if they are at the beginning, approximately in the middle and towards the end of the shoot. To be on the safe side, you can leave 1-2 “spare” branches, but no more. Other annual shoots are cut back to their growth point.
Another year later, the third and final tier is laid, with the second done in the same way as with the first last year. At the lower level, three branches are also left on selected shoots from last year, getting rid of the rest of the growth. The central conductor is cut 0.7 m above the last tier.
The tiers are formed so that the branches of each subsequent one are slightly, but noticeably shorter than the shoots of the previous one.
In the future, you can limit yourself to sanitary pruning of the crown. If the variety you choose does not branch well, prune the branches only when they grow to 0.6 m, removing no more than a third (preferably a quarter). Shortening very small shoots will negatively affect the future harvest.
Tiered crown
A correctly formed tiered cherry crown resembles a pyramid

"Spanish Bush"

As you might guess, the birthplace of this pruning method is the Iberian Peninsula. “Spanish bush” allows you to effectively restrain the growth of trees, compact plantings, and allow ripening fruits to receive enough heat and sunlight. There are also disadvantages - abundant fruiting is delayed for 1-2 years, cherries more often suffer from frosts - both winter and spring. In the latter case, the crop will most likely die completely, unlike tall trees that keep the buds located closer to the top intact.

The following spring, after planting, the cherries are pruned to a height of 0.35–0.7 m. The specific value depends on how high from the ground you want to place the main skeletal branches, and whether there are growth buds on the central shoot.
When the shoots from the growth buds on the central shoot reach a length of 0.5–0.6 m (usually this happens during the summer), they are cut so that the tops are 10–15 cm above the “conductor”. Most often there are no more than four such branches. If this is not the case, leave the strongest ones and cut the rest to the growing point. The angle of inclination can be adjusted by tying the branches to pegs.
Next fall, trellises are built along the cherry plantings on both sides. All annual shoots that have reached a length of 0.5–0.6 m are tied to them. This is done in such a way as to obtain a symmetrical open crown.
In spring, the tree is not touched. After a year, the attached branches and annual shoots located on the sides are cut to a length of 0.25 m. Those that grow in the center of the crown or parallel to the ground are left intact. The shortened shoots will begin to branch intensively, and the first harvest should ripen on the untouched ones next year.
Pruning Spanish bush
The “Spanish bush” pruning scheme is mainly used in southern Europe, even in Poland and Bulgaria it is used with caution, the risk of losing the harvest is quite high

"Spanish bush" requires constant support from the gardener. Since the lion's share of the harvest is taken from thin and young annual branches hidden in the middle of the structure, they need to be renewed annually. About a quarter of the shoots that bear fruit are cut off in the fall. A complete update thus takes place within 4 years. The procedure can be carried out both in the fall and next spring.

We should not forget about shortening branches at the root, which prevent the fruits from receiving light and heat, thickening the crown. The optimal height of the tree is no more than 2.5 m. All branches that exceed the specified dimensions are cut to the required length.

"Australian Bush"

In this case, the cherry tree has a low crown from the very beginning - this makes harvesting much easier. The presence of several equivalent trunks helps to “balance” the structure.

Immediately after planting, the seedling (bare twig) is shortened to 0.5 m.
During the summer, side shoots appear from the growth buds. Of these, 4 of the strongest and strongest are left, located at approximately the same distance from each other.
When the shoots reach a length of 3–5 cm, ordinary clothespins are secured directly above the growing point perpendicular to the trunk. This will help correct the direction, making the branches almost horizontal. With proper care in the warm, sunny summer, the shoots gain good length, growing to 0.8–1.2 m.
Next spring, all growth buds directed into the crown are cut off. Only those branches that grow more or less hollow are left on the skeletal shoots. The resulting design should resemble a fruit bowl.
In the third year, all the growth of this year on the skeletal branches is cut to a length of 8–10 cm. Otherwise, it will shade the bouquet branches on which the cherries ripen.
Subsequently, in the fall, all annual growth is regularly pruned, preventing the tree from growing beyond the specified dimensions. Don’t forget about sanitary pruning, removing everything that shades the crown.
Every 5–6 years, anti-aging pruning is carried out, removing approximately a fifth of the fruit-bearing branches. They leave “stumps” 3–5 cm high, from which new shoots will appear.
Additional advantages of the procedure

In addition to crown formation, pruning can serve other purposes:

Limiting tree growth. The main thing is to remove the branches that form an acute angle with the trunk, located very close to it, and leave the “outer” branches. They are located almost horizontally.

Beginning gardeners would be very lucky if caring for “bird cherries” did not involve a procedure that should be approached seriously and consistently. We are talking about pruning and further shaping the cherry bush, which is carried out depending on what appearance the caring craftsman wants to give to the tree.

First of all, it should be noted that this process can be carried out, firstly, in order to increase productivity, and secondly, to combat numerous pests or as a preventative measure for dangerous diseases. In addition, thanks to pruning, cherries become more resistant to temperature changes.

It should also be noted that such a procedure can be carried out at different times of the year and have a specific character:

1. For example, correct formative pruning of cherries is done in the first year after planting: it involves shaping the tree in such a way that a strong skeleton of the plant is formed and favorable conditions are created for future ripening of the fruit. This “event” is carried out in early spring, before sap flow begins.
2. When the “bird cherry” bears fruit, experienced gardeners also try to care for their “favorite”: they remove all broken branches, infected shoots and those shoots that thicken the crown.
3. Old cherries are subjected to anti-aging pruning, thus trying to prolong the fruiting process. In addition, this allows you to increase the yield of young specimens - in both the first and second cases, it is necessary to shorten all the branches of the “bird cherry”.

Knowing how to prune cherries correctly and when exactly, experts achieve good results in their work: their trees grow healthy and every year they delight the eye with a large number of rich red berries. Most craftsmen say that this process is best carried out in the spring - only when the temperature at night no longer drops sharply. However, it is not at all necessary to wait until March to start forming the crown of the cherry tree - it can always be done in the summer or autumn.

The only thing that is important to learn is the universal rules and recommendations of gardeners who have been regularly caring for “bird cherries” for many years.

1. Firstly, pruning seedlings - young cherries - should be done only when their height reaches at least 50 cm. After this, it will be possible to shorten the lower side branch of the tree by about 60 cm, and others can be guided by it.
2. In addition, those shoots that are placed at an acute angle towards the trunk must be completely removed. If there are not many branches on the sides - just one or two - they are carefully shortened to the place where the 5th bud is located.
3. When thinking about how to properly prune a young cherry tree, a novice gardener should not “get carried away” - it is not always possible to form even the lower tier in one sitting. In addition, when engaging in this process, it is necessary to maintain a certain distance - at least 70 cm - between the “floors”.

Experts note that when the plant turns 5 years old, all further efforts will be aimed precisely at ensuring that the “bird cherry” does not increase in size - that is, it does not become higher than 3.5 meters. Moreover, upon reaching the so-called “coming of age,” the specimen needs to remove only those branches that are not growing properly, are sick, injured, or are thickening the crown.

It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that depending on what time of year it is outside, gardeners carry out one or another type of pruning of “bird cherries”.

How to prune columnar cherries: pruning the tree and pinching out the branches

Separately, it is necessary to say about pruning a columnar cherry tree - a variety that has only one central trunk: quite often, experienced craftsmen insist that such a procedure should not be carried out in this case. However, in order to care for the plant - that is, to ensure that its height remains no more than 2.5 m - it is still necessary to perform certain manipulations.

So, connoisseurs of this crop know in detail how to trim columnar cherries:

• first of all, they advise a one-year-old seedling to carefully pinch out the lateral shoots so that the distance between them and the trunk is 10 cm. In addition, you should not forget to shorten the top of the plant;
• next year it will be necessary to increase the distance - up to 20 cm, and pin the top of the “bird cherry” after it has grown by 30 cm;
• after another 12 months, the branches on the sides need to be shortened to 30 cm, and the top cut off again;
• When the tree reaches 5 years of age, it is necessary to control it so that over the years it does not grow in height - that is, it does not become higher than 2.5 m.

How to trim and thin out the crown of a cherry tree in spring and summer

Even a beginner can easily explain the purpose and how to prune cherries in the spring: at the end of March or beginning of April, this procedure is a kind of sanitary measure and, of course, a formative one. Firstly, the central branches are carefully shortened, and, secondly, the crown is thinned out - competing shoots are removed. In addition, during the same period they also get rid of frostbitten shoots.

Experts also talk about how to properly prune cherries in the summer: in this situation, the process takes place in two stages. First of all, after the plant has flowered, but the fruits have not yet had time to form. The second stage begins only when the entire harvest has been harvested. Most often, during the summer months, gardeners are engaged in shortening young shoots and forming the silhouette of a tree - this is achieved by pinching the ends of the shoots that have not yet become woody.

Autumn sanitary pruning of cherries

Autumn sanitary pruning of cherries is carried out no later than mid-September in order to be done before the end of the month. This is necessary because with the onset of cold weather, the healing process of the cuts proceeds much worse. Gardeners try to remove all diseased and broken branches so that the “bird cherry” can safely survive the winter.

In addition, remembering how to properly prune a cherry tree in the fall, the craftsmen do not forget to shorten the annual shoots by about a third and leave all side branches no more than 30 cm long. Note: this procedure is carried out using a saw, not a pruner, since this the instrument ensures a faster healing process. It is also necessary to remember that seedlings that are 1 year old are not pruned in September. Experts wisely postpone this “event” until spring.

How to properly prune cherries in the fall using a bush and other methods

In addition to the listed methods, there is a method of pruning young cherries with bushes, which allows you to increase their productivity. This technology involves the total removal of vertical shoots and shoots, which take away nutrients from the fruit-bearing horizontal branches.

Moreover, to increase the yield, gardeners use a clever way to prune cherry seedlings - they do not use pruners or a saw, replacing them with an ordinary rope. Simply put, the masters do not remove, but rather bend the processes. Another option is possible, which involves the process of carefully cutting the branches: using a saw, small marks are made above the buds to slow down the process of stretching the shoots and at the same time stimulating the growth of lateral branches.

How to properly form a cherry crown: the main types of tree formation

If a novice gardener does not know how to properly form the crown of a cherry tree, then sooner or later he will receive not only a tall tree, but also a specimen with very sparse branches. To ensure that the size of the “bird cherry” does not exceed 4 m, and harvesting does not become a real problem, experts share advice on how to care for the plant.

There are several basic types of shaping the top of cherries, which are easy to do if you follow the instructions:

Gardeners consider a sparsely tiered crown to be the most suitable for this fruit tree. The parameters of the specimens, the top of which seems to be divided into several “floors”, include: a standard – no more than 70 cm high, a trunk with 4 main branches – the so-called “lower tier”, and the remaining branches placed at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other from a friend. In order for the plant to have a similar shape, it is necessary to carry out the procedure of pruning the one-year-old seedling: to do this, by climbing the trunk 60 cm and counting 4 buds, you should carefully shorten the young “bird cherry”. After 12 months - next spring - the process of forming a neat cherry tree continues: to create the lower tier, 4 branches are selected, the length of which should be approximately 50 cm - that is, all excess is cut off - and the central conductor is shortened to a size of 70 cm. After another Every year, the resulting crown is carefully thinned out, and those shoots that are located at an acute angle or thicken the top are pruned. Moreover, it is at this stage that it is very important to check that the branches of the second tier are 15 cm shorter than the branches of the first order. Only after this can you shorten the trunk at a height of 50 cm from the second tier - you should not forget to count the same 4 buds, which then form the “third floor”. After the next 12 months, gardeners direct all their efforts to ensure that the tree does not grow tall. That is why the conductor is carefully trimmed - always above a weak shoot located on the side - at a height of 50 cm. In addition, those branches that form the third tier are carefully shortened - the trunk must be 20 cm longer than them. In addition to the listed procedures, it is mandatory sanitary pruning of “bird cherry” is carried out. It should be noted that in the future the process of caring for and monitoring the height of the specimen is carried out in exactly the same way as in the fourth year after planting. Note: branches of plants with this type of crown should not be longer than 50 cm.

The most popular shape among gardeners is the one that gives the top of the tree a flattened appearance. Almost every master knows how to correctly form a cherry crown in this way. First, in the spring, an annual seedling is subjected to a shortening procedure so that its height does not exceed 80 cm. In the same summer, a central conductor is distinguished, as well as two branches growing from opposite sides. It should be remembered that all other processes must be removed. A year later, with the onset of spring, the height of the lower tier will be checked - it must be at a distance of at least 40 cm from the base. At the same time, the central conductor is measured, which should already be 20 cm above the lateral processes. In addition, in May, two more branches are distinguished, located 50 cm from the lower tier. After 12 months, the final stage of formation is carried out: the central conductor is cut off from the side - where the weak branch is located.

It should be noted that there is a way to form cherries in the form of a bush: these specimens are small in stature and are considered the most convenient for harvesting. To get a similar plant on your site, you must shorten the one-year-old seedling to a height of no more than 70 cm, and after that, measuring 20 cm, you should remove every single bud. At the beginning of summer, you need to remember to select a few - 5 - strong shoots, and simply break off the rest. With the arrival of next spring, gardeners try to give the regrown branches a horizontal position. In the same year, in June, those shoots that still maintain a vertical direction should be removed. After 12 months, gardeners are engaged in thinning the resulting crown.

Formation of cherries using the “Australian” and “Spanish” bush techniques (with video)

In order to make it easier for themselves to collect a large number of fruits, experts prefer a cherry shaping technique called the “Australian bush”. This method requires that the tree initially have a fairly low crown.

First of all, the one-year-old seedling is shortened to a height of no more than 50 cm. When lateral shoots gradually begin to appear, gardeners leave only the 4 strongest shoots.

After the young branches reach a length of approximately 5 cm, they are carefully secured perpendicular to the central conductor using an ordinary clothespin. This move is necessary for the shoots to grow horizontally.

With the onset of next spring, careful pruning of all buds is carried out, which in the future can produce shoots that thicken the crown. In addition, skeletal branches should also be cleared of unnecessary branches. This should create a shape that resembles a fruit bowl.

The Australian formation of young cherries also suggests that in the third year, craftsmen shorten all the main branches to 10 cm.

Further care of the tree involves regular sanitary autumn pruning - all shoots and shoots that shade the crown are removed.

Moreover, every 5 years you should carry out a “rejuvenating” procedure: it is necessary to remove a fifth of the branches that bear fruit.

The method of forming cherries in the form of a “Spanish bush” came to our gardeners, as you might have guessed, from the Iberian Peninsula. This method is good because it allows you to ensure high yields every year and, moreover, control the growth of the “bird cherry”. Unfortunately, along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages of this technique: firstly, the plant does not tolerate winter and spring colds well, and, secondly, abundant fruiting should be expected with a delay of 2 years.

Annual seedlings are shortened to a height of approximately 70 cm in early spring. This figure may vary as the gardener decides how high he wants the lower skeletal branches to be located.

To better understand how the cherry formation process is carried out, watch a video demonstrating all stages of this procedure:

When forming young cherries in Spain, 4 strong shoots are selected on the central conductor and cut to a size of no more than 60 cm. If they grow in the wrong direction, their position can be corrected by simply carefully tying the shoots to pegs.

A year later, next autumn, lattice supports - trellises - are installed on both sides of the tree. After this, annual shoots, the length of which has already reached 50 cm, are carefully tied to them. This approach is necessary to create a symmetrical crown of the “bird cherry”.

After 12 months, the tied branches and those shoots that are located on the sides must be shortened to 25 cm. Those that are in the center of the crown or spread parallel to the ground are not touched at all. It should be noted that all pruned branches will begin to branch over time, and those that remain untouched will produce the first harvest.

It should be noted that the “Spanish bush” must be regularly looked after: firstly, the gardener must constantly cut off the young branches, on which in most cases the bulk of the fruits ripen. That is why you need to carefully approach the procedure for removing a quarter of fruit-bearing shoots every fall. Moreover, this is one of the stages of how old cherries should be pruned so that they can undergo a complete renewal process in a few years. It should be remembered that such a “rejuvenating” technique can be carried out both in the fall and with the arrival of spring.