The garlic crop has two forms: non-shooting and bolting (Rough-legged wintergreen). The arrow is a peduncle and only winter garlic shoots, which can be sown in the fall.
In winter shooting garlic, at the end of summer, bulblets - aerial bulbs - ripen on the peduncle; in one inflorescence there can be more than a hundred of them:
The bulbs are ripe, it’s time to harvest the garlic
Bulbs can be used for planting before winter, but by next summer only a very small onion weighing 3-8 g, or a single-toothed onion, will grow from them; it needs to be planted again in the fall, and in the second summer you will get good harvest full-fledged large bulbs. Although if you sow small bulbs, then in the second year the bulbs are not so hot, only in the third year are they what you need - large ones with good keeping quality. Because of this slow development The method of propagating garlic by bulbs is not often practiced, usually only to preserve the varietal qualities of garlic.
Drying garlic bulbs before planting
Growing rough-legged buzzard from cloves is much more popular. A clove is essentially daughter bulb with a rudimentary bud, and many cloves (there can be from one to seven) on a common bottom, surrounded by covering scales, form a complex bulb.
Small heads of garlic grew from the bulbs the first year - they will be planted before winter
The larger planting material, the larger the harvest will be: if you plant a large clove, in the spring a large complex bulb will form from it: in which there will be a maximum of cloves, and from small planted cloves small bulbs will grow into one clove.
Those who have never grown garlic sometimes regret the planting material, leave large cloves for storage and for food, try to plant smaller cloves, but as a result the yield is several times smaller, even if the shoots are removed in a timely manner (they take away nutrition). Therefore, use either the largest cloves or single clove bulbs for planting. Periodically renew garlic from bulbs; ideally, about a third of all crops should be bulbs, the rest should be cloves.
When to plant garlic before winter
The timing of planting garlic in the fall depends on weather and climatic conditions. In the central regions of Russia this is usually the beginning of October, in southern regions– end of October, beginning of November, in Siberia – end of September. The timing is very vague, usually the gardener in each area has his own calendar and a couple of signs in stock: some believe that garlic should be planted before the Intercession, others can start right from the Intercession.
My relatives have been landing in Tomsk for many years winter garlic runs from September 20 to October 5. Others are in Ufa, they are planted strictly after October 8, on the next day off. They don’t check with thermometers, they trust their intuition. Friends from Kazan - always in the first ten days of October.
The general rule for planting garlic does not depend on calendar dates: planting should be done 45, maximum 50 days before the onset of persistent cold weather, when the soil has cooled to +10°C. This is enough time for the garlic to form a good bunch of roots 10-12 cm long.
Landing place
Garlic is light-loving, so choose a sunny place for it. Although, what vegetable doesn’t like the sun? Just remember that this is a culture of long daylight hours and even light shading will not give us a harvest.
Garlic is no less demanding when it comes to soil - like all bulbous plants, it thrives on porous, well-drained, but nutritious soil neutral reaction.
In spring, you need to remove the cover from winter garlic in time.
Does not tolerate swampiness, long water retention (in heavy clay soils), too acidic soil (peat soils), and small sandy bulbs - the substrate is too poor and dry.
If your site has been developed for a long time, we plant, observing crop rotation, for the second year only in a new place to avoid diseases and pests. The best predecessors of garlic are melons (zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers), tomatoes, early cabbage, leafy greens, legumes. Bad Predecessors: potatoes, onions.
If you are just learning garden plot and the beds are not prepared, it is worth improving the soil before planting.
Soil preparation
If your site is low, the soil takes a long time to dry, onions and garlic can be grown in high beds, if the site is dry - in raised beds ( minimum height 20 cm). The width is arbitrary, for ease of weeding no more than 1 m.
Raised beds are drier excess water It goes away quickly after precipitation and warms up faster in spring.
If the soil has a neutral reaction, then we add organic and mineral fertilizers: per 1 m2 of land: 10 liters of humus, 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. potassium chloride.
The main thing is don't use fresh manure– only humus (manure that has lain in a heap for 3-4 years).
Additionally, depending on the soil type:
- if the soil is too heavy, dense, and takes a long time to evaporate moisture, it needs to be improved by adding sand and peat - a bucket per 1 square meter. m
- if it is sandy, add peat and clay accordingly (it needs to be dried and broken down to a grain or powder state) - a bucket per 1 square meter. m
- We improve peat soils by adding clay and sand - a bucket per 1 square meter. m (approximate consumption)
- if the soil structure is good, add only fertilizers
Planting scheme
Planting cloves
There are several rows in the garden bed, with a distance of 20 cm between them; a maximum of 25 cm is no longer needed, unless you plan to sow carrots together.
The distance between the teeth should be 15-20 cm, the embedding depth should be 4-6 cm.
If you plant more often, it will be inconvenient to weed and loosen the soil
Planting bulbs
The distance between rows is the same 20 cm, between bulbs 10-15 cm, planting depth 4-5 cm. Consumption is approximately 20-30 g of bulbs per 1 sq. m beds.
A denser scheme for planting buzzard, which is often indicated in gardening guides (6-7 cm), is not justified - you can plant it this way only if you have a piece of land for all the crops, and during the summer you will thin out unripe garlic for soup or salad. In practice, garlic growing in spring quickly becomes overgrown with weeds; when planted tightly, it is difficult to weed, even if you don’t pull it out weeds, and you cut off the roots, no Fokin flat cutter or similar tool will get into the dense plantings.
How to plant garlic
We prepare the soil two to three weeks in advance - add fertilizers and humus (compost). Those. If we plant at the end of September, we can prepare at the beginning of September.
Whether it is worthwhile to pre-treat the planting material before planting is up to you; the survival of the bulbs depends no longer on the treatment, but on further agricultural technology. It is useful to soak the teeth for a couple of hours in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin.
We plant garlic according to the diagram, at the correct depth - cloves no more than 6 cm, bulbs no more than 5 cm
Some gardeners recommend not pressing the tines into the soil so as not to injure the bottom, this is true, especially if the soil is very dense. We have airy peat, very loose, we always drown it completely. If the ground is wet, you don’t have to make a furrow - we stick the handle of the tool to the required depth and plant it.
If you have not previously applied fertilizer, simply sprinkle the beds with ash, about a glass per square meter. meter.
After planting, do not water the garlic. At autumn planting Garlic has enough rainfall for it to begin to take root and begin to grow in the spring.
But it is necessary to cover the garlic. If the winters are not severe, it is enough to cover with fallen leaves with fruit trees– spread a layer of about 20 cm over the beds, on top – non-woven material so as not to be blown away by the wind, or when snow falls, throw it on top.
If the winters are harsh, you can cover the winter garlic with straw manure, preferably horse bedding, where manure mixed with sawdust is an excellent fertilizer. If there is no manure, cover with peat, a layer of such mulch is about 10-15 cm. But in the spring, be sure to rake the manure or peat from the beds before the garlic begins to grow! And when the soil dries, carry out shallow loosening (the top 2 cm of the soil so that there is no crust left and the soil breathes).
Olga Treukhina
Compliance with the basic rules of agrochemical science will allow anyone who wants to get large heads, like in a supermarket, to plant garlic for the winter. They're just stored winter varieties the plants are very bad - this should be taken into account by all gardeners.
- Choosing a landing site
- How to plant
- Frost protection
- Work in spring
Choosing a landing site
The plant “loves” sun rays, That's why ideal place a well-lit area of the garden will be for him. At the same time, water should not stagnate in such a place. Good predecessors plants are legumes, cucumbers and melons, potatoes. It is not recommended to plant vegetables in the same place all the time.
By quality characteristics the soil may have different composition– both black soil and sandy loam or loamy soil. The main condition is that the soil must be loose. To do this, about a month before the expected time of planting the cloves, it is necessary to dig up the area reserved for garlic, with the accompanying application of fertilizers so that the plant planted for the winter is large. As a rule, experienced gardeners Plant vegetables for the winter in beds or boxes filled with fertile soil.
The following fertilizers are used for garlic:
Nitrophoska;
superphosphate;
humus;
compost.
Peat mixed with loam will help “ennoble” clay or sandy soil. Level the prepared soil and disinfect it with a solution of copper sulfate.
Important! Garlic does not like sour soil, so it is better to get tested at the nearest seed station. If the soil turns out to be highly acidic, the situation is corrected by adding dolomite flour or lime when digging.
Optimal timing of work
Before planting garlic before winter and so that it grows large in early summer, you should carefully read the forecasts of weather forecasters for the next 2-3 weeks. Early boarding will force the plant to grow, and it will die from frost. Late - will not allow the cloves to take root well. On average, planting work seed material for the winter they begin in the middle zone at the end of September - beginning of October.
Selection of variety and preparation of planting material
Preference should be given to zoned varieties intended specifically for the region in which the gardener lives. You can also use foreign ones winter-hardy species garlic, however, it should be remembered that the conditions for plants in another country are somewhat different from local ones. This may have a negative impact on future harvests.
Divide the heads into cloves, being careful not to disturb the dry shell on each of them.
Soak the prepared garlic in one of the following compositions for half an hour:
Saline solution;
potassium permanganate solution (potassium permanganate);
solution wood ash;
copper sulfate solution;
Fitosporin-M solution.
Such measures are necessary to combat fungal diseases, for which the surface of planting material is a fertile breeding ground.
Important! You cannot keep the cloves in the mixtures long before planting, so as not to deteriorate the quality of the planting material.
How to plant
Winter-hardy varieties of garlic gain weight and size well with enough free space around them. Therefore, the distance between the cloves should be at least 10 cm. The row spacing in the spice bed should be at least 20 cm.
The depth of planting material exceeds the spring one and is about 10 cm, so that the garlic does not freeze out at very high temperatures. low temperatures during the winter months. Most often, the calculation of the depth of the grooves is done in a simple way– it should be equal to twice the height of an average garlic clove.
Frost protection
Often in middle lane On the European plain, sub-zero temperatures occur before heavy snowfalls, freezing the ground surface several tens of centimeters deep. To avoid damage to the future harvest from cold weather, beds with winter garlic should be mulched. Suitable covering materials:
Peat;
sawdust;
humus;
needles;
spunbond or agrofibre.
To keep the beds with winter-hardy plants as long as possible more snow, you can cover them with cuttings of branches.
Work in spring
As soon as the temperature reaches above zero and the snow melts, all mulch should be removed. This will help the spice grow faster. Spring feeding It is better to carry out it after the soil has dried out between the rows in order to combine it with the first watering. Will fit potash fertilizers or urea.
Garlic responds well to loose soil Therefore, regular weeding of rows helps not only to get rid of weeds, but also to saturate the soil with oxygen after winter “hibernation”.
Important fact: Winter garlic often throws out its arrows after the sun warms it up enough. They should be broken out mandatory, leaving “stumps” 2-3 cm in size.
Garlic is very popular in our country. It grows well in a variety of climatic conditions. When grown, it forms underground bulbs (heads), which consist of individual segments (cloves).
Features of planting winter garlic
Autumn planting of garlic is preferable to spring planting, as the heads are larger and denser. For winter cultivation Select the largest onions, which are split into individual cloves.
If you carefully examine the onion, then, when same sizes, you can see specimens with thin and thick stems. It is better to select thin-stemmed heads for seeds, which produce more uniform cloves. In thick-stemmed bulbs, the middle segments are too small and unsuitable for planting. These cloves can be used for growing in a two-year culture, then they produce large, even bulbs.
Preparing seed material for planting
Before planting, seed material is thoroughly dried in a warm room. The mesh with teeth is placed on the radiator or placed near the stove and dried for 2-3 weeks. Poorly dried garlic is very susceptible to fungal diseases.
Treating is carried out 1-2 days before planting. The cloves are soaked in a fungicide solution for one hour. Usually they use Fundazol, Thiram, Maxim (the solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions) or in a solution of potassium permanganate of medium concentration. Then the seeds are thoroughly dried. Treating seeds with fungicides prevents the development of fungal diseases of garlic.
Most varieties of winter garlic are suitable for growing in all regions of the country. The most common are Novosibirsk, Agat, Nadezhny, Onyx, Yubileiny Gribovsky, Sagittarius, Losevsky, Petrovsky, Soyuz.
Bad and good predecessors
When growing crops, crop rotation must be observed. It cannot be grown in one place for more than one year, as the damage to plants by diseases and pests increases. Garlic can be returned to its original place only after 5 years. Good precursors for culture are:
- melons (zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers);
- tomatoes;
- cabbage;
- lettuce, dill;
- busy couple
Garlic should not be cultivated after beets, carrots, potatoes, onions and other root vegetables. These crops remove the same substances from the soil as garlic.
When to plant garlic before winter
Before winter, garlic is planted 3 weeks before the onset of the first cold weather. This is usually mid to late October. If you plant it too early, the cloves may sprout and die. If later, they will not have time to take root, some of the cloves will die in the winter, and seedlings in the spring will be rare and weakened.
Possible dates for planting garlic in the fall depend entirely on the weather and vary from year to year. Garlic should be planted in sunny places; plants develop worse in partial shade.
Soil preparation
Plants grow well in light to medium loamy soils. The ground underneath winter planting prepared in advance. Fresh manure or peat cannot be applied, since garlic with such fertilizer goes into the leaf and forms loose heads that are unsuitable for storage. If the soil is very poor, then add humus or completely decomposed compost several months before planting.
Acidic soils are unsuitable for garlic. Seedlings on such soils begin to turn yellow in the spring, the plants develop poorly, the growing season ends earlier, and the heads are small and underdeveloped. To determine acidity use special devices(sold in stores). They are very simple and easy to use and allow you to determine soil acidity on site.
A device for measuring soil moisture, acidity and illumination.
The soil is acidic if the pH is less than 6.5. To deoxidize it, liming is carried out in the fall: dolomite flour is added, limestone flour, fluff. Fertilizer is embedded in the ground to a depth of 8-10 cm.
When liming, the speed and duration of action of the fertilizer should be taken into account.
- Dolomite flour. Its effect begins to appear 2 years after application and lasts up to 5 years. When using dolomite flour the soil will be favorable for planting garlic for the 3rd year.
- Limestone flour. Its effect appears in the 2nd year and lasts 2-3 years. When applied, the soil becomes suitable for garlic in the second year.
- Fluffy. The effect begins immediately after application and lasts 1 year. You can cultivate garlic immediately after adding fluff.
The dose of fertilizer depends on the acidity of the soil.
- On strongly acidic soils (pH below 4.5) the norm is 50-60 kg/acre.
- For medium acidic (pH 4.5-5.5) 30-40 kg/sq.m.
- For slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5) 25-30 kg/sq.m.
Lime fertilizers are applied in the fall before digging, evenly distributing them over the surface of the earth.
Since lime promotes the leaching of potassium, potassium fertilizers are added to the soil at the same time. For garlic, potassium sulfate is the best.
Waterlogged soils are unsuitable for growing garlic. Often it does not even sprout because the cloves rot in the damp soil, and the emerging shoots are yellow, stunted, and quickly die.
The beds for winter garlic are dug up in August, incorporating everything into the soil. necessary fertilizers. When digging, you can add ash at the rate of a bucket per m2. The earth is leveled and the clods are broken up.
Landing technology
For planting, take the largest cloves, from which large, even, dense heads grow. Garlic is planted in cold, dry weather. The place should be well lit all day.
- Furrows are made on the ridges, the distance between which is 23-25 cm.
- If the soil is very dry, then water it and let it air out.
- Plant the cloves in the furrows with the bottom down to a depth of 4-5 cm, slightly pressing them into the ground, at a distance of 15-17 cm from each other.
- Cover the planted cloves with soil.
- Cover the bed with spruce paws or straw. This is done to prevent the garlic from freezing.
If there is not enough space on the site, then you can make a thickened planting. The cloves are planted 9-10 cm apart from each other, and the distance between the rows is reduced to 13-15 cm. With this planting, the heads are somewhat smaller.
Caring for winter garlic
In the spring, spruce branches are removed from the ridges only when the threat of returning cold weather has passed, since garlic seedlings suffer greatly from spring temperature changes.
Top dressing
Young plants are very sensitive to nitrogen deficiency. If there is not enough of it, the leaves begin to turn yellow and the tips dry out. When the first signs of nitrogen starvation appear, root feeding. It is better to feed with carbamide (urea), since it is less washed out of the soil by precipitation. The solution is prepared at the rate of 3 g per 1 liter of water for one plant. The seedlings on the ridges are watered and then fed.
Watering
Winter garlic does not require much moisture. He gets enough precipitation. It only needs to be watered if the summer is very dry and there is no rain. Excess moisture leads to damage to plants by fungal diseases, which are extremely difficult to combat, since all pathogens are in the soil and primarily affect the heads of garlic.
If any diseases appear, the affected plants are removed, and the rest are watered with a fungicide solution (Maxim, Hom).
Caring for garlic is simple and involves regularly loosening the soil until the tops cover the row spacing. When loosening the plants, it is necessary to lightly hill up, sprinkling soil on the heads.
Winter garlic can be either bolting or non-shooting. To better form the heads, the arrows are cut off. If it is necessary to grow bulblets, then leave a few arrows and break out the steel ones.
In winter garlic, in mid-July, the leaves above the heads are tied in a knot or pressed down firmly. This technique allows you to extend ripening by 1-2 weeks. While the leaves have not dried, the garlic is pouring in and the longer it remains in the ground during this period, the larger the heads will be.
Harvesting and storing garlic
Garlic is removed from the beds only after the leaves have completely dried. Arrows are a reliable indicator of maturity. When they straighten and the film on the inflorescence bursts, the garlic is ready for harvesting. If you delay, the cloves will begin to sprout. Sprouted garlic is not suitable for storage or planting. It must be used immediately.
In dry weather, the heads are dug up and left on the ridges for several hours. Then they are removed under a canopy, where they are laid out in a thin layer. Garlic is dried for 12-15 days. Then the tops are trimmed, leaving 10-15 cm of the stem, peeled from the integumentary scales, and the roots are trimmed. When storing the crop, 40 cm of the stem is left in braids so that it can be braided. Store in cold rooms (basements, cellars, sheds) at a temperature of 2-4°C. With more high temperature the cloves begin to sprout.
Growing garlic from bulbs
Garlic does not produce seeds. In the summer, it develops arrows in which airy bulbs develop. In breeding they are widely used to develop new varieties. In the garden you can also grow large, dense heads from them. Bulbs should only be obtained from winter garlic, as they are larger and produce good quality heads.
To obtain air bows, several arrows are left. By the end of July, from 60 to 100 bulbs ripen in them, outwardly similar to small cloves. When the arrows straighten and the inflorescence film begins to tear, the arrows are collected and dried.
Bulbs can be planted both before winter and in spring. When planting in autumn, the onions are sown in ridges at a distance of 5-6 cm between them to a depth of 3 cm. The ridges must be covered with spruce branches. The next year, care is the same as for regular garlic.
At spring growing Before planting, the bulblets are stratified. They are wrapped in cloth and placed in a cold place (refrigerator, barn), where they are kept for 10-20 days. After this, they are planted as spring garlic. By the end of summer, one-toothed bulbs are formed from the planted bulbs. In autumn they are dug up and dried.
Every gardener asks himself in the fall: how to plant garlic before winter When to plant winter garlic?
Today you will learn: when to plant winter garlic, how to plant garlic in the fall, caring for winter garlic.
Depending on the region of residence, planting of winter garlic begins in the fall, but not earlier than mid-September and no later than the first ten days of December.
You can’t plant it too early, the garlic will sprout, and you can’t plant it too late, because the garlic won’t have time to take root and will freeze.
When to plant winter garlic, be guided by the weather in your region, approximately 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost, so that the garlic has time to form a root system.
It is not advisable to plant garlic in one place for two years in a row. Choose a place in the area that is well lit by the sun to plant garlic. Garlic grows best after cucumbers, zucchini, eggplants, pumpkins, peppers, and grain crops.
It is necessary to sort through, reject small, damaged teeth, and select large and high-quality ones. This must be done immediately before landing. Disinfect the prepared teeth in ash lye for 2 hours.
For solution: Add 400 g of ash to 2 liters of water, boil for 30 minutes and then cool. Instead, you can soak the teeth in Fitosporin solution for 5 minutes.
Previously, they were used for disinfection set of events: first, the teeth were dipped in a solution of potassium permanganate for 10 minutes, then for 2 minutes in salt water(3 tablespoons per 5 liters of water), and completed with processing copper sulfate for 1 minute (1 tsp copper sulfate per 10 liters of water).
2-3 weeks before planting, it is necessary to apply fertilizers after the previous crop and prepare the site. Dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel, adding 5 kg of humus, 20 g of potassium salt, 30 g of superphosphate per 1 m2. Then treat the area with copper sulfate, pouring 1 liter of solution per 1 m2 of area (1 tsp per 10 liters of water).
Planting garlic in open ground
In the prepared area, make furrows with a depth of 15 cm and a distance between them of 20-25 cm. Sprinkle on the bottom of the furrows river sand layer up to 2-3 cm, this is done to protect the cloves from rotting in direct contact with the soil.
Plant the cloves with a distance of 15 cm between them (if the cloves are small, then 8-10 cm). Next, all the cloves are sprinkled with soil and mulched with a 2 cm layer of dry peat or sawdust mixed with soil. If there is a snowless winter, the area with garlic should be covered with film. When it starts snowing, remove the film.
Garlic won't cause much trouble. If it manages to grow its root system, then the garlic will survive the winter well. In spring, it is necessary to remove a layer of mulch to make it easier for garlic to break through the soil.
At the end of June, garlic begins to throw out arrows; they must be cut off before they reach a height of 10 cm, otherwise the bulbs will be small.
When the garlic sprouts, apply fertilizer, urea or a solution of bird droppings. In June-July, apply fertilizer from 200 g of ash diluted in a bucket of water.
In phase active growth Water the garlic actively, moderately during the ripening period. Remove weeds and loosen the soil after watering.
Video - Tricks for planting garlic before winter
Harvest garlic in sunny weather when they turn yellow lower leaves. This occurs in late July or early August, 2 weeks earlier than spring garlic. Make sure that the garlic is not overripe, otherwise the heads will fall apart into cloves in the ground.
The bulbs need to be dried for 4-5 days in the sun. Then the bulbs are cleared of soil, the roots are trimmed and the stems are trimmed, leaving 10-20 cm in height.
Today there are two varieties of garlic: spring and winter. The two subspecies differ in terms of planting time, as well as agricultural cultivation techniques. Our article will tell you how to plant garlic before winter to get excellent harvest V next year.
Home distinctive feature winter varieties of garlic is that their planting, unlike spring varieties, occurs in the fall. However, in order for planting garlic before winter to bring the desired effect, you need to know the timing of planting the planting material.
Typically, garlic is planted in the fall approximately 35-45 days before the onset of frost. If you do not have time to invest within the allotted time, then root system will not have time to develop. By the beginning of frost, it should grow 10-12 cm.
Planting material of winter varieties can be planted starting from September 20. In this case, planting winter garlic lasts until mid-October. Experts recommend waiting until the ground becomes frozen at night and thaws during the day. Therefore, in order to more accurately determine the time of disembarkation, you should check the weather forecast. You can also use lunar calendar, determining from it the most favorable days to carry out this manipulation.
It is important to know when to plant winter garlic, since very early planting will lead to germination of the planting material. If the gardener is late and does not plant the cloves on time, then the planting material will not have time to take root and will freeze.
Many novice gardeners often ask the question “is it possible to plant winter garlic in the spring?” Yes, you can. But only on condition that bulbs, rather than cloves, are used as planting material. They are sown in April. To plant bolting winter garlic in the spring, you need to prepare planting material in advance.
As you can see, for the future harvest it is very important that the planting material is planted at the right time.
After which crop is it better to plant?
Crop rotation is very important point, which has a direct impact on the quality and quantity of the harvest obtained at the end of the season. After all, after some crops, garlic grows very poorly, forming defective heads. Therefore, planting garlic for the winter should be done in the place where the optimal predecessors grew before.
This variety grows best when planted in place of annual vegetables that have a short growing season (for example, zucchini, pumpkin, peppers, cucumbers, eggplants). Cloves can also be planted after berry bushes and grain crops.
Garlic should not be planted in the fall after root crops. This is due to the fact that they have more late dates harvesting and in the process of their growth greatly deplete the soil, which does not have time to recover sufficiently by the next season.
Soil selection
To plant garlic before winter, you need not only to determine the timing of this procedure, but also to choose a planting location. After all, garlic is a capricious crop that loves fertile, light soils.
The site selected for growing this crop must meet the following requirements:
- be well fertilized. The soil must be nutritious, light and accessible for air to penetrate into its layers;
- an elevated place where the situation of stagnation of melt water is excluded. If moisture stagnates in the area, the risk of plant roots rotting increases significantly. This will lead to the appearance of diseases and pests. IN in this case need to do raised beds. But such a situation should still be avoided;
- illumination of beds throughout almost the entire day.
To choose the site that is optimal in terms of its characteristics in the spring, when the snow melts, you need to carefully monitor the garden and identify all the places where moisture accumulates. You definitely can’t plant cloves on them. In autumn, the chosen location should be covered with snow early to prevent freezing of the planting material. As a result of observations, preference should be given to areas where:
- the snow lies long enough;
- people and animals do not walk;
- an ice crust forms.
Choosing a site for planting winter garlic, it is necessary to take into account the fact that during winters with little snow, the planting material may freeze. This usually happens when there is no snow on the garden bed during severe frosts.
To prevent the development of such a negative scenario, you need to know how to properly plant garlic in the fall.
A good place would be an area located near the fence. In this case, it is desirable that it be located with north side. In this case, the shadow from the fence will allow the ice crust to remain on the surface of the earth for as long as possible. At the same time, the fence will protect the beds from blowing snow.
After the planting site winter variety garlic has been determined, it must be properly prepared. Without preparation it is very difficult to get a really good harvest.
Preparation of the beds means that the area should be well dug up and fertilized. Excellent fertilizer for this crop there will be humus. You can also use complex feeding. Fertilizers can also be applied before directly planting the planting material. In this case, superphosphate (30 g), potassium salt (20 g) and humus (5-6 kg) should be used. In addition, it is recommended to water the entire area, after applying fertilizers, with a solution of copper sulfate.
The amount of fertilizer applied is calculated based on how fertile the selected area was. If the soil is severely depleted, one bucket of humus should be used per 1 sq.m of land. The most best choice For garlic of this variety there will be sandy loam and non-acidic soils.
Preparing the site for planting should begin in early September. After completing the preparatory procedures, the beds are covered with film on top, which is removed before planting.
Rules for planting and care
After we have figured out when to plant garlic and in what area, we need to understand the rules for planting itself. It is worth noting that planting winter garlic in the spring differs from the autumn procedure in a different type of planting material, as well as technology. Garlic planted in the spring grows from bulbs, not cloves. At spring landing weather conditions must be taken into account.
In the spring, furrows are formed for the planting material to be planted. The bulbs are planted to a depth of no more than 3 cm. A distance of 2 cm is maintained between them. Between adjacent furrows there remains free space at 10 cm.
To understand how to plant various varieties garlic in the winter, you need to know the following rules:
- planting material is planted in furrows that have a depth of about 15-20 cm;
- a distance of 20-25 cm is maintained between the cloves. Although there is information that there should be a distance of 12-15 cm between large specimens, and 8-10 cm between small ones;
- Coarse sand is poured onto the bottom of the furrow. Its layer should be 1.5-3 cm. A layer of sand will protect the planting material from rotting.
We plant winter garlic in these prepared grooves in the fall. At the same time, we plant the garlic so that the bottom is at the bottom. This will allow the root system to quickly begin to form. Once the cloves have been positioned properly in the furrow, they are covered with soil. Now you know how to plant garlic correctly. However, to grow a decent harvest you need not only correct landing, but also appropriate care.
After planting has been completed, the ground is mulched. A layer of dry peat is laid on top of the beds. It can be mixed with sawdust and soil. To protect against cold weather, you can put roofing felt on top. Garlic leaves for the winter in this form. After this, care for the beds will be carried out in the spring.
It includes the following steps:
- removing roofing felt and clearing the soil of mulch;
- arrows that appear at the end of June must be broken off. They should not grow higher than 10 cm. Otherwise, the head will turn out small;
- when the first shoots appear, add to the soil nitrogen fertilizers(mullein, urea, bird droppings);
- the second feeding is carried out in June / July. Ash is used here;
- abundant watering should occur at the stage of active plant growth and head formation;
- after each watering, the soil is loosened and weeded;
As you can see, planting and caring for winter garlic is not difficult. Therefore, it is grown in many regions of our country.
Popular varieties of winter garlic
On at the moment exists large number varieties of winter garlic. Therefore, it is often difficult for gardeners to determine which variety should be planted. own plot. Let's consider the most popular varieties garlic, which is planted for the winter.
Komsomolets
This is a mid-season variety that forms arrows. Its growing season is about 120 days. But in the southern regions it is reduced to 100 days.
The main advantages of the variety are:
- frost resistance;
- spicy good taste;
- easy care;
- unpretentiousness;
- good immunity.
Komsomolets forms a large head, which has a flat-round shape. At proper care from 1 sq.m you can harvest up to 1.2–1.4 kg of crop.
Petrovsky
A shooting mid-season variety that has universal purpose. Garlic is planted in the fall. The plant forms heads that have a flattened shape. The head is covered on top with dirty white scales, which are pierced with longitudinal purple stripes. On average, one head weighs about 75 grams. It contains 8 cloves. They have a pungent taste and are brown in color.
Among the advantages of this variety, it is worth highlighting the following points:
- stable fruiting;
- universal purpose of garlic;
- high quality harvest;
- good taste;
- excellent immunity.
Petrovsky is now actively grown in Russia, Moldova, and Ukraine.
Gribovsky 60
One more excellent variety winter garlic is Gribovsky 60. It is planted for the winter. The variety forms an arrow. The first shoots appear early spring. Plantings are well tolerated even severe frosts. The taste is spicy. One head contains approximately 11 cloves.
From this video you will learn how to properly plant garlic before winter.