Beginning gardeners often doubt when to plant strawberries: in spring or closer to winter? Timing depends on climatic features specific region and chosen method of planting seedlings.
Approximate dates for planting strawberries in Russia:
- V southern regions- from March 5 to March 15;
- V middle lane Russia and the Moscow region - from April 10 until the end of the month;
- V northern regions- from May 1 to May 15.
Strawberries are usually planted from March to May. Plants planted at this time are able to develop better than those planted in the fall, so spring planting is always used in the Urals and Siberia. They grow and adapt to new conditions long before the cold weather, increasing your chances of a solid harvest next season.
How to plant strawberries in spring: preparing beds
Before planting strawberries, it is necessary to properly prepare the beds. Despite the fact that it is not a fastidious plant, certain conditions must be observed when choosing a planting site:
- You should not plant it where nightshade crops previously grew, best predecessors and the neighbors are cereals.
- It is not advisable to replant strawberries in one area; at least a couple of years must pass for the soil to be enriched with useful substances.
Before planting strawberries in the spring, you should prepare the soil. In order for it to develop well and bear fruit abundantly, you should choose black soil, or loamy and sandy loam soil. Forest dark gray would also work great. It is better to organize beds on southern and always well-lit slopes. In the lowlands and in swampy, soddy-podzolic soil, plants grow much worse and do not bring the desired harvest.
Not deep underground water is one of the important conditions growing. The strawberry root system is designed in such a way that it cannot reach deep groundwater.
Before planting strawberries, it is advisable to prevent fungal diseases by disinfecting the soil a couple of weeks before planting seedlings with a solution of lime heated to 70°C and copper sulfate(500 g/50 g/10 l water). To spray one square meter of soil, gardeners use 1 liter of the composition.
Planting beds are usually fertilized with compost, and for more capricious ones, hybrid varieties- the top 10 cm of soil should consist of a mixture of turf soil, peat, white sand and humus, taken in equal proportions.
Methods for planting strawberries
There are four popular ways to plant strawberries correctly. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Bush method
Seedlings are placed in rectangles located at a distance of half a meter horizontally and up to 70 cm vertically. This method requires very few seedlings, but such a bed requires special care: regular loosening and mulching of the soil, removal of weeds and tendrils is necessary.
The main advantage of the method is access to air circulation and plenty of space for development. Thanks to free growth, the berries grow larger and ripen well.
Nest planting method
One plant is located in the center of the plot, and around it, at a distance of about 10 cm, 6 more bushes are planted at the same distance from each other. The gaps between nests must be at least 30 cm.
The disadvantages include high consumption material. The advantage is that with small area It is possible to collect large harvests for several years in a row.
Planting in rows
When strawberries are planted according to this principle, they are placed at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other, and about 40 cm are left between the rows free space. Plant care is standard: you need to pick off the tendrils, periodically loosen the soil and make sure that weeds do not appear. The berries do not grow too large, but in general the yield is higher than when planted in bushes or nests.
Carpet method
Ideal for summer residents who cannot devote a lot of time to caring for the berries, since the strawberry mustaches do not break off at all with the carpet growing method. The bushes are planted in rows - the distance between them should be about 7 cm, and between the rows up to 30 cm.
The area overgrows quite quickly and a special microclimate is formed on it; dense plants retain moisture and prevent the appearance of a large number of weeds. There is only one drawback - small size berries This method cannot be used in shady areas; the crop will not ripen and will suffer from rot.
Correct fit important not only for normal development culture, but also so that plants are less susceptible various diseases or pests.
How to plant strawberries in spring video
More complete information about in different ways planting and the process itself can be seen clearly from the video.
Planting strawberries in the ground in spring
Before planting strawberries in open beds in the spring, it is necessary to carry out the procedure of hardening the seedlings - keep them in a cool room for a couple of days at a temperature of 10-15 degrees. To prevent it from drying out and to take root more easily in a new place, before planting it is advisable to dip the roots of the seedlings in a special mash - an infusion of clay and mullein.
The holes must be prepared with a depth of about 7 cm, humus should be added to the bottom, and then filled with water heated in the sun. Long roots should be trimmed before planting so that they do not bend or break. The holes should be filled very carefully so as not to cover the strawberry rosettes with fruiting buds with soil, after which the soil is compacted and watered again.
How to properly grow strawberries under film
Gardeners often wonder what is the best way to plant strawberries in the spring: open beds or under film? Growing this crop in closed beds has a number of advantages:
- rapid development of seedlings due to the greenhouse effect and insulation;
- accelerated maturation fruits due to heat accumulation under the film (for about 1-2 weeks);
- fewer pests and weeds;
- better preservation of berries and their transportability due to the lack of contact with the ground when laying the mulch film on the ground.
For a summer cottage the best option The structure is a tunnel of metal arcs covered with film. Such a greenhouse must be ventilated daily, and the soil must be weeded and watered once a week. When the air temperature begins to rise above 26°C, the shelter is removed.
Black mulching film is also popular among gardeners. The essence of the method is that before growing strawberries, the bed is completely covered with film, and holes are cut for seedlings. This shelter perfectly retains moisture in the soil and prevents plants and berries from coming into contact with the ground and weeds.
Planting strawberries video: method of planting under film
Bottom line
Growing strawberries is not difficult and at the same time exciting process. Having learned from our material how to properly plant strawberries in the spring, and applying the knowledge gained, you will be able to grow healthy plants and get an excellent harvest.
Planting and growing strawberries on a plot near your home or dacha is not so difficult.
Even a beginner who is not very well versed in the intricacies of fruit growing can cope with this task.
Having met several general rules for growing strawberries, you can easily get good harvest this tasty and rich useful vitamins berries.
Preparatory activities
Many novice gardeners, due to inexperience, believe that it is enough to just stick a strawberry seedling into the ground.
Of course, something will grow in this case. However, to obtain a good harvest, preparation is necessary, which includes the following points:
Choosing the time to disembark. There are two options: plant either in spring or autumn. When deciding in favor of one of these two options, you should special attention pay attention to climatic characteristics.
Thus, spring planting is recommended if the area is characterized by cold winters with little snowfall. Otherwise, planting is usually done in the autumn. Spring planting is done quite early, in late April - early May.
The main condition is completely thawed soil. You should not rush too much, because immature seedlings may die in case of frost.
Autumn planting takes place from late July to early September. It is important to take into account the abundance of precipitation and air temperature: if there is a lack of moisture or the weather is too hot, the seedlings may not survive.
Too much late disembarkation seedlings into the soil exposes them to the risk of dying from early frosts.
Selecting a location: It is preferable to plant strawberries on a flat area rather than on a slope. Southern slopes are especially dangerous, as they can become excessively waterlogged during snowmelt.
Extremely important good lighting and eliminating the risk of land flooding by flood waters. In addition, the site must be protected from wind erosion. And remember that planting strawberries on the same plot for 4 years in a row significantly reduces its subsequent yield.
You should also pay attention to the type of soil. The following soils are ideal for growing strawberries: chernozem, loamy, sandy loam and dark gray forest. The preferred pH is approximately 5-6.5 and the occurrence of GW (groundwater) at a depth of about 50 cm.
Soil preparation. Before planting strawberries, the selected plot of land should be free of stones, weeds and pests. While the first two enemies can be dealt with through manual harvesting, pest control requires a different type of control.
The following method is effective: in the spring, sow the area with a green manure plant, at the end of summer, mow it and carry out additional treatment with a special compound.
Preparing seedlings. Not every seedling is suitable for planting in soil. Ideal seedlings should have root system fibrous with a diameter of the main root of at least 6 mm and a length of all roots of at least 7 cm.
Also, if the roots are too long, they need to be cut to the above stated length. For planting, specimens with 4-5 leaves and root hairs are selected white 3-4 cm long and an intact apical bud.
Only after careful preparation can you proceed to the actual cultivation of strawberries.
Methods for growing strawberries
The procedure for placing seedlings in the ground is no less important than preparing for it. There are several known ways to do this.
Carpet. The easiest way, as it does not require careful preparation. Principle of the method: Seedlings are planted on a flat area without removing the tendrils, as a result of which the strawberries grow naturally. A significant disadvantage: every year the berries become smaller.
Bush. The essence of the method: each bush is planted separately at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other, and the tendrils are removed. This contributes better ventilation seedlings and making it easier to care for them. The result is large berries. Disadvantage: the method is labor intensive.
Gnezdovoy. Seedlings are planted in groups, with one placed in the center and six around it. The distance between seedlings should be 6-8 cm, between nests - 30 cm, between rows - 40 cm. The advantage of the method: you can plant a large number of seedlings.
Private. The method is the most popular. Planting can be done in one or two rows in a garden bed.
The distance between the bushes is 20 cm, between the rows - 30 cm, between the centers of the beds (with a two-row option) - 70 cm.
Important! After planting the seedlings in the ground, they need proper watering. This can be done in any way, as long as the plants have enough moisture.
What to do next?
As mentioned above, strawberries grow well in one area for no more than 4 years in a row.
Then replacement with another crop is required to replenish the soil fertility. Onions, garlic and legumes are suitable for this. After them, you can plant strawberries again.
Photos of how to grow strawberries
![](https://i2.wp.com/beinten.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/%D0%9A%D0%B0%D0%BA-%D0%B2%D1%8B%D1%80%D0%B0%D1%89%D0%B8%D0%B2%D0%B0%D1%82%D1%8C-%D0%BA%D0%BB%D1%83%D0%B1%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA%D1%83-30.jpg)
In strawberry huge amount useful substances, it is incredibly tasty and aromatic, therefore it is rightfully called the queen of berries. Every summer resident wants to grow on his plot big harvest, but some are afraid to face difficulties, so they don’t do it. In fact, you just need to provide quality care and the right technology planting, in turn, the berry will respond with abundant fruiting.
Site preparation
- It is necessary to completely clear the soil of large debris, including branches, leaves and sticks.
- Then the entire area of the potential bed is dug up, preferably deep, approximately to the depth of a shovel.
- Next, fertilizer is scattered at least one bucket of humus per square meter.
- All that remains is to mark the area for future bushes.
Ideal bed size
After all the preparatory work has been completed, you can proceed to the actual planting. There are certain nuances here:
- the size of the place should be about 40-50 cm;
- each bush is located 30-40 cm from each other so that the plant can develop normally;
- the ideal width of the bed is about 20 cm, and between each hole there should be a furrow of 30-40 cm;
- The plant must be planted from east to west so that the light distribution is even.
You need to be very careful when placing strawberries in the ground so as not to damage the roots. After completing this stage, we move on to watering. Each bush is irrigated separately, directly under the root, try not to touch the leaves.
In order for the plant to take root well, it is necessary to use the above scheme. It is very important to maintain the correct distance between strawberries when planting, because if the plants are located too close, they will develop much more slowly. Also incorrect placement will lead to the rapid spread of various diseases.
Beds made in compliance with all boundaries are much easier to weed. If you place the bushes very close to each other, then during weeding you can damage the berries.
Bushes should grow in one place for no more than 4 years. Then you need to carefully dig up the seedlings and move them to a new place.
Schemes for planting strawberries in open ground
It's important to choose right neighborhood, the berries must be placed close to dill, beets, parsley, lettuce leaf, onions, radishes and beans. Berry does not go well with horseradish and cabbage.
There are basic schemes that many gardeners use when planting strawberries.
- Bushes- this technique is the most popular. In accordance with it, rosettes of berries must be distributed one at a time at a distance of 45-60 cm. This is done so that they do not intertwine. You also need to trim the antennae. This is the only way the berries will produce a good and large harvest. There are also disadvantages, which include the need for frequent mulching, loosening and removal of tendrils, as well as constant weed control. Thanks to this strawberry planting scheme, you can achieve large fruits, a low likelihood of diseases and save space.
- Join the ranks- using this method, seedlings must be placed at a distance of 15 cm in one row. You need to leave a gap of 40 cm between them to make it easy to move between plantings. The main advantage is that the plant does not need to be replanted for 6 years.
- Nesting- suggests the location of one bush in the center and the rest around it. Thanks to this strawberry planting scheme, a hexagon is obtained, in which the nests are formed at a distance of 5-8 cm from each other. In this case, the gap between the bushes in one row should be at least 25 cm. The main disadvantage is the need for a large space for placement. The main advantage is the abundant harvest.
- Carpet scheme planting strawberries in open ground is considered the simplest and most economical. Using this method does not involve cutting off the plant's tendrils. Thus, the berry receives complete freedom of development. Strawberries are spread throughout the designated area. With this method, the plant forms the necessary plant mulch, as well as its own microclimate. Advantages include weed control, moisture conservation and self-mulching. The main disadvantage of the scheme is the gradual reduction of fruits.
Greenhouse
Early and remontant varieties are perfect for such conditions, as they give the maximum yield. The technology of such cultivation is very simple: in order to achieve good result, it is necessary to observe the light and temperature regime, as well as active nutrition.
The most popular method for planting strawberries in a greenhouse is the hydroponics method. This type of cultivation is very popular among farmers, as it has the following advantages:
- the berry turns out to be environmentally friendly;
- the plant is easily replanted without damaging the roots;
- no need to purchase new soil for transplantation;
- completely free of pests and diseases;
- seedlings do not need to be constantly watered;
- the plant receives required quantity nutritional components, therefore it gives a good harvest.
Vertical bed technology
Such a simple structure can be done with your own hands; it is also possible to install drip irrigation, which is located in the middle of the pipe. For production you will need:
- PVC pipes;
- a thin tube that is installed inside the previous one (must match the length of the main one);
- a tool that can easily cut holes in racks;
- gravel;
- spunbond or burlap;
- shovel;
- quality soil.
After all the tools and materials are prepared, it is necessary to cut 20-50 mm holes in the pipe, possibly in rows. The marking can be arbitrary, but optimally after 10-15 cm. Then you need to prepare a pipe through which the drip irrigation, for this purpose, holes are formed in it using an awl. The intensity of irrigation depends on their size and width. Next, two units are assembled together and fixed to each other. A plug is placed in the bottom hole, and a watering can is attached to the top.
Then the structure is dug into the ground to a depth of half a meter and covered with gravel around it and compacted. Next, soil is laid into the structure, which may sag after irrigation; if necessary, it should be added. The scheme for planting strawberries in a pipe stand is very simple. After the structure is installed, young rosettes of bushes are planted in the prepared cells. Everything is carefully sprinkled with soil and drip irrigation is turned on, after which the roots are again covered a little with soil. You can wait for the first shoots.
Frigo technology
Several decades ago, a new technique appeared that farmers loved so much. In accordance with it, mother and daughter bushes do not overwinter in open ground, but are dug up, distributed and transferred to sealed trays. Then they need to be stored at a slightly negative temperature in refrigeration chambers or in adapted premises. The advantage is considered to be a qualitative improvement in yield. After such a wintering, the plant quickly takes over and grows actively. The strawberry planting pattern can be spotwise or in rows. It is better to plant in April or early May. The fruits appear immediately at the beginning of summer, fruiting is observed until the first frost. It is necessary to constantly loosen the soil and apply the necessary nitrogen-containing fertilizers during the flowering period.
Clery strawberry planting scheme
After purchasing seeds, you should use generally accepted recommendations.
- The best time for planting is early April or August-September.
- It is better to send seeds into the ground initially in a greenhouse. When the climate becomes warmer, you can go outside.
- The plant loves the sun and a lot of light. Fruits grown this way retain all their taste.
- It is better to make the beds rectangular. It is highly recommended not to place them close to each other. Under dense conditions, Clery bears fruit poorly.
- For irrigation, the drip method is chosen.
- Seedlings are covered in spring using agrospan or film.
- It is preferable to use chelated microelements as a top dressing.
Gigantella
The variety is very productive and promising, the only thing is that you need to take into account all the nuances of care.
- The plant loves moisture, light and warmth. Drip irrigation should be present on the beds.
- The planting scheme for Gigantella strawberries is very similar to many others, but there are still some nuances. On square meter There should be no more than 4 bushes. The distance between them should be 60-70 cm, otherwise the peduncle will become tangled and the berries will lack nutrition due to the thickened root system.
- The variety is heat-loving, but still does not tolerate heat; burns may appear on the berries.
- It is necessary to plant only in well-fed soil; for this purpose, nitrogen fertilizers are chosen during flowering and a mixture of phosphorus, magnesium and potassium during the period of ovary and ripening.
- Loosening the soil, mulching and removing tendrils is very important for a large harvest.
Remontant strawberry
These are varieties that have the ability to bloom several times, so they produce crops throughout the summer, right up to the cold weather.
Strawberries need light soil with a neutral pH. It is recommended to plant plants in the spring, but you can do this at the end of August. Planting scheme remontant strawberries must be a nesting one. Caring for it is a little more difficult than gardening, and the berry needs more space. It is also necessary for new shoots to take root. In spring, manure must be added to the soil, and if the soil is heavy, then sand.
In mid-May you can start planting. A distance of at least 65-75 cm must be left between the holes. Young bushes must be watered systematically. To do this, it is recommended to choose warm water. It is recommended to remove the antennae regularly. In autumn, the plant is prepared for winter, namely, all flower stalks and leaves are cut off. It is also necessary to check the root system so that it is not exposed. Next, the bushes are covered with grass, but only at the onset of frost.
Nuances of cultivation
- It is recommended to use plants that bear fruit for no more than three years, since then the berries become small and their number is significantly reduced. After this period, strawberries become more vulnerable to diseases.
- There is no need to allow the formation of tendrils; if they are not removed, the yield will decrease.
- It is recommended to get rosettes for propagation only from annual shrubs, each of which has 5-7 leaves.
- When you want to grow strawberries seedling method, then it’s better to do this in February.
- If you adhere to generally accepted strawberry planting patterns, you can grow any variety and get the richest harvests.
Garden strawberries are one of the most delicious, tender and favorite berries among gardeners.
People call it strawberry, although in official science it is small, aromatic forest berries that bear this name.
If you are going to plant this valuable and popular crop on your plot, then today we invite you to get acquainted with the common methods of planting garden strawberries and the features of caring for them.
Previously, we already got acquainted with, decided on the choice and prepared the seedlings, and now we will start planting strawberries.
In this article we will also talk about how to properly care for it in order to get a good harvest.
And although our beauty is not capricious and will not require great labor feats from us, still, like all plants, the strawberry loves when it is treated with love and given due attention.
Planting schemes
As we already know, you can plant strawberries both in the spring, when the soil warms up, and in late summer - early autumn.
And seedlings purchased in pots can be planted throughout the entire season.
There are several main ways of planting garden strawberries, namely: single-line or row, double-line or ribbon, square-cluster or checkerboard.
These planting methods are used mainly on flat and dry places.
If your area is wet and there is a possibility of water stagnation in rainy weather, then it is better to grow garden strawberries in raised beds(20-30 cm).
I prefer to grow it at higher elevations, as I find it more convenient.
Firstly: it leaves the soil faster excess moisture, secondly, the strawberry bushes are much better illuminated by the sun, and thirdly, it is much easier to care for the plantation.
And now a little more about each method of planting garden strawberries, which have their own disadvantages and advantages.
Planting with individual bushes. The seedlings are placed at a distance of 45-60 cm one at a time, and to avoid intertwining, the tendrils are removed regularly.
This allows plants to develop with increased intensity and good fruiting.
The disadvantage of this method is that it is labor intensive - mandatory frequent weeding and loosening, mulching and removal of mustaches.
However, abundant nutrition for each bush guarantees bountiful harvest with large berries.
Additional advantages are savings in planting material and good ventilation, which reduces the incidence of disease.
Planting strawberries in rows (single-line). The bushes are planted at a distance of 15 cm, placing them in rows with a gap of 40 cm between rows.
This is done for free access to the plantings. The labor intensity is the same as when planting strawberries in individual bushes: it is necessary to loosen, weed, and remove the tendrils.
Advantages - increased productivity due to the growth of bushes in rows and the possibility of obtaining high yields for 5-6 years, without renewing the planting.
Double-line (band) fit. Used for large areas plantings in order to reduce labor costs for processing the site.
Plantings are placed in two lines at a distance of 30 cm, placing seedlings every 15-20 cm and leaving a 60-70 cm wide passage between the rows.
This provides access to each plant and reduces the size of the area required for weeding and loosening.
Checkerboard landing. It is used when laying a bed of garden strawberry varieties with increased foliage indicators.
In this case, the seedlings are placed in rows at a distance of 50 by 50 cm, with one row shifted relative to the other by 25 cm.
This provides good ventilation when bushes grow and prevents disease.
Planting in nests. A well-developed seedling is placed in the center, and around, at a distance of 6-8 cm, another 6 smaller ones are planted.
Leave 25-30 cm between nests, and place them in rows with row spacing 35-40 cm wide.
The main disadvantage of this method of planting strawberries is the consumption of a large amount of planting material.
However, as the bushes grow, labor costs are reduced, and fruiting becomes significantly higher than with traditional schemes.
Carpet planting of strawberries. The simplest and easiest to maintain growing method.
In this case, all the mustaches are left for rooting. Such plantings almost do not need to be weeded - the plant seedlings simply do not allow anything else to grow.
They also do not require intensive watering - under a continuous carpet of leaves, the soil dries out slowly.
This method is the best solution for rarely visited areas, as it does not require special care.
The only drawback is that over time the crop degenerates and the berries become small.
Important! When choosing a planting scheme, calculate your capabilities, and also take into account the goals that you have set for yourself. If you want to grow garden strawberries with commercial purpose, do not be lazy to study as deeply as possible all the nuances of planting and care.
Methods for planting garden strawberries
Planting bushes in a regular garden bed is the most traditional way, providing average yields under average climatic conditions.
Today, Russian summer residents and farmers are actively using technological innovations that allow them to obtain higher and higher quality yields while reducing labor costs.
Planting strawberries on agrofibre. For planting, high ridges are formed, the width of which depends on the width of the non-woven material. Usually it is 70-80 cm.
The ridge is covered with agrofibre, pressed along the edge with heavy improvised means (boards, slate, bricks, earth).
The usual placement is in two rows. The distance between rows is 50 cm, between seedlings – 20 cm.
At the designated points make minimally small round holes(for film so it doesn’t tear) or cross-shaped.
Dig a hole by hand and place a seedling in it. If the roots are long, then take a long, wide knife, use it to make a hole and then press it with earth.
Or cut the roots to the required length (up to 10 cm). If there are moles on the site, then get rid of the pests first; doing this after constructing the bed will be problematic.
Planting strawberries on a straw mattress. At the end of summer, dried pea tops are dug into the garden bed and watered nitrogen fertilizers, which ensure rapid reheating.
After 3 weeks, well-developed seedlings are planted at intervals of 30-40 cm in several rows, well watered and mulched.
The main rule when placing is good access to each plant;
Landing in film tunnels. This method is good for northern regions or areas with a harsh continental climate.
The film cover will protect young tender seedlings from the vagaries of the weather.
However, with significant warming, the film must be removed or vents built, since excess temperature and humidity will contribute to the development of diseases.
Planting in a vertical bed. If there is a shortage of space on summer cottage It is possible to grow garden strawberries in vertical beds.
To build such a bed, you need any available material: plastic bags, wooden or plastic barrels, containers, car tires or wheels.
It’s quite simple to build a bed by making holes in the available material for seedlings and filling containers or barrels with soil.
To provide sufficient watering and fertilizing along the entire length, a pipe is inserted into the center of the structure with small holes made at the required level, through which moisture enters.
Such plantings are especially vulnerable during the cold period, so they are carefully wrapped for the winter.
Important! When planting by any method, place the heart of each seedling above the soil level. At the same time root collar must be completely covered with soil. Ideally, the growing point of each plant should be just above the soil level and not be covered with soil, otherwise the plant will die.
How to arrange the plantings
To achieve the highest productivity (of course, if there is free space), you should create 4 beds with constantly updated plants:
- Garden strawberry bushes are planted in the first plot in the fall. Next year you will receive high-quality seedlings from this ridge, with which you will plant the second plot;
- A year later, from the second plot, strawberry seedlings are planted in plot 3, and in the first plot you get a full harvest;
- In 2 years, you will have two excellent fruit-bearing beds, one bed with young strawberries, and you will plant seedlings in the last plot;
- After 3 years, plot 1 is dug up - after all, it has already produced fruit for 3 years, and young seedlings from plot 4 are planted.
However, transplants alone cannot provide high yields. It is necessary to provide your pet optimal conditions for good fruiting.
Planting young seedlings
Garden strawberry seedlings are planted in spring (20.04 – 10.05) or autumn (16.08 – 31.08):
- Before planting, seedlings are kept in a cool room for at least 5 days;
- The best time for planting is the second half of the day;
- Excess leaves are removed, especially old and dried ones, leaving only the two inner green leaves. This prerequisite for good survival. Otherwise, the root system may not cope and the plant will die;
- The roots are dipped in mash from equal parts clay and peat;
- Place the seedlings in the hole, having first straightened them along their entire length. Ideal option– make a mound and “plant” a bush on it, placing the roots along the edges. At the same time, do not forget about the main rule when planting garden strawberries - do not cover the heart with soil. It should be slightly above the soil level, and at the same time the root collar should be completely in the ground;
- After placing the seedling in the hole, the soil around it is compressed and leveled, while making sure that the roots do not remain hanging in the void, but have full contact with the soil;
- After planting, water (plentiful in dry weather).
Important! If you bought strawberry seedlings in cups, the roots will definitely curl. They should be straightened, rotten ones should be removed, and if necessary, shortened. Proper planting will increase the chances of good survival of the bushes.
Features of care
Young strawberry seedlings need increased attention in the first year, especially at the initial stage, when they have not yet taken root:
- In hot weather, the seedlings are shaded in the first few days and watered as needed. If spring plantings are threatened by late frosts, then the plantation is protected with covering materials;
- When planting, the hole is well watered and must be mulched, this allows you to lay a ridge in any weather - the mulch retains moisture;
- Fertilizing is carried out together with mature plantings, but the norms are halved - the plant is still small;
- During spring plantings, peduncles and tendrils must be removed; this will provide an additional incentive for the growth and development of the bush.
Important! Over-wetting the soil can lead to diseases and root rot. Therefore, monitor the humidity with special care. The best option in this regard is drip irrigation– the soil never dries out or becomes waterlogged.
Caring for mature plantings
Garden strawberries – unpretentious plant, immediately after the snow melts you can see green leaves.
In the spring, when the soil warms up, the plantings are cleaned of dead leaves, new seedlings are planted in place of frozen bushes, and the plants are treated against pests.
As soon as the weather permits, garden work on replanting and maintenance begins.
Weeding, loosening, mulching
When planting garden strawberries in the usual way, without using agrofibre, you should prepare for regular weeding and loosening throughout the season - at least once every 2 weeks.
Particularly expensive in this regard are beds with separately planted bushes. Therefore, large agricultural farms use a row planting scheme, which allows plantations to be processed using mechanized means.
Over the entire season, 5-6 weedings and 7-8 loosening are carried out. In this case, special attention is paid to the accuracy of any actions near the roots - after all, they lie quite close to the surface and are easily exposed.
If this happens, you should sprinkle them with a layer of soil and trample them down.
This happens especially often after wintering, when the bushes bulge above the surface due to frost. In this case, they are slightly hilled.
Some professionals advise removing a 3 cm layer of soil during the first spring weeding; pest larvae overwinter in it.
In this case, the soil warms up faster, and the garden strawberry bushes begin to grow more actively.
If your climatic conditions allow, then it is quite possible to use this recommendation.
After weeding, mulching is carried out with available materials:
- Sawdust;
- Pine needles;
- Rotten straw;
- Old leaves;
- Reeds.
The first mulching of strawberries is done after spring weeding, covering the soil around the bushes with a layer of 7-8 cm.
During the season, mulch is added if necessary, and any weeds that have emerged are pulled out.
Important! A layer of mulching materials still retains moisture and protects the berries from contamination. And if you make mulch from pine needles, you will also add a disinfectant effect that prevents the development of diseases and even repels pests.
Watering garden strawberries
One of the main points proper care Garden strawberries require timely and sufficient watering.
If we talk about garden strawberries, they are especially demanding of soil moisture during flowering and fruiting.
If the soil is fairly light and loose, watering is carried out more often, and if there is clay in the soil, watering is carried out less frequently.
Basic requirements for watering:
- Before flowering begins, irrigation by sprinkling is allowed, after which - only at the root. If your plantings are placed on agrofibre, then watering is carried out through a hose with holes, laid in advance when constructing the ridge;
- The frequency of watering is 1 time approximately every 10-12 days, but in extreme heat the frequency is increased several times;
- Watering is carried out warm water, if impossible, make furrows between the rows;
- For 1 sq.m. They spend approximately 10-12 liters, the rate is increased or decreased depending on the degree of soil moisture. This is especially important during the fruiting period - the ground should be damp to a depth of 20-25 cm;
- Watering is done in the morning, or better yet, in the evening, to allow the plant to receive the maximum necessary moisture.
If you have small plantings, then it is advisable to cover them with film during the flowering and fruiting period in rainy weather - this will help protect garden strawberries from the development of diseases.
Important! Before harvest abundant watering stop - the berry turns out to be especially sweet and not watery. To prevent the plantings from drying out in hot weather, watering is carried out after each collection of ripe berries..
Feeding
Nutrition, along with watering, plays an important role in shaping the future harvest of garden strawberries.
If you took care of soil fertility in advance, then in the first year, in the absence of berries, you can get by with a minimum of inorganic fertilizers.
However, starting from the first fruiting season, it is necessary to regularly feed your pet in order to get the appropriate return:
- First feeding carried out after the appearance of young leaves, at the same time last year’s leaves are removed. For 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. l. liquid “sodium humate” or urea. Consumption per 1 bush – 0.5 l. Or dilute mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:50) and add the same amount of solution. To enhance growth and fruiting, they also carry out foliar feeding: dissolve 2 g of potassium permanganate in a bucket of water, boric acid and ammonium molybdate;
- Second feeding carried out immediately before flowering. For 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. l. “Agricola Aqua” and “Effecton Ya”, add potassium sulfate (1 tsp) and add 0.5 liters of solution to each plant. At the same time, another foliar feeding is carried out;
- Third feeding produced after harvest (before August 10), its purpose is to ensure the full development of flowering buds on next year. For 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. l. "Effekton" and nitrophoska, add a glass wood ash. For each bush, use 1 liter of solution.
Replace all necessary components maybe special complex fertilizer, which was created only for garden strawberries and provides a 30% increase in yield.
Important! When fertilizing, try not to get fertilizer on the leaves, and also take into account the amount of moisture in the solution during watering. After all, waterlogging is one of the main factors contributing to disease.
Removing a mustache
Pruning the mustache allows the garden strawberry bush to preserve greatest number energy for high yields.
However, such a seemingly simple action also requires compliance with certain points:
- Carry out pruning twice a year - in the spring before flowering and after fruiting;
- To remove mustaches, be sure to use gardening tools: scissors, knife, pruning shears. Tearing off the mustache can damage the plant and even pull it out of the soil - the mustache is quite strong;
- Do not remove the tendrils at the root, leave the cutting up to 10 cm - later the plant itself will get rid of the unnecessary stem;
- Perform pruning early in the morning or at evening time, and then do pest control.
Important! To obtain high-quality planting material for garden strawberries during the fruiting period, mark the most productive bushes. You will remove the tendrils on them when the time comes to lay a new ridge - in the fall. For seedlings, take only the first mustache from the mother plant - they have the most high qualities productivity. With this selection, some gardeners increase the yield of already good varieties and even develop new ones.
Of all the available options for planting garden strawberries, choose the most suitable ones to achieve your goals - whether it is growing for profit or to provide your family with a vitamin-rich and tasty product. In any case - success to you!
For information, watch a video about another method of planting garden strawberries. Maybe some of you will prefer this position.
See you soon, dear readers!
Good afternoon, dear readers!
Today we’ll talk about planting strawberries in the fall. Strawberry a real queen berries Every gardener is waiting for her appearance. Delicious and bright berry has many advantages. She ripens first.
It contains a large amount of vitamins, so it will be very useful for a weakened body. Due to its favorable content of antioxidants and microelements, it can be used as a medicine. It will help with diabetes, anemia, high blood pressure, atherosclerosis.
But strawberries are pretty capricious plant. Beginners face many difficulties. The berry bush may dry out and bear little fruit. He is often attacked by slugs. To have less problems with a plant, it is better to plant this crop in the fall.
Proper planting of strawberries in autumn
By planting strawberries in the fall, you can harvest the first harvest in the summer. When planting in spring, as a rule, there are no berries in summer. In addition, gardeners have more time in the fall. It's standing in the yard good weather, there is always a lot of planting material.
Thanks to the warm weather, the young bushes will take root well, take root in a new place and overwinter well.
Thanks to autumn planting, gardeners will have to put less effort into caring for the plant. They will have the opportunity to restore neglected plantations.
Strawberries need to be planted not only on time, but also correctly.
Strawberry planting dates in autumn
There are three deadlines autumn planting strawberry bushes.
The period for early autumn planting is from mid-August to mid-September.
In late autumn, the plant can be planted a month before frost.
Each gardener can determine the planting date independently, taking into account the development cycle of strawberries and the weather conditions of their area. As a rule, most varieties of berries throw out their runners in June-July. They take root in July-August, and fruit buds are formed in September-October.
The highest yields can be obtained with early autumn and mid-autumn planting. I prefer to plant mustaches at the end of August, so one of these days I’ll do just that.
It is best to plant strawberries with mustaches in the fall. The optimal period is from August 20 to September 15. It is not recommended to do this later, since the berry bushes will not grow stronger and will suffer from frost. It won't even help protective film. After this, the plant will be difficult to grow.
A favorable day for planting strawberries can be found by lunar calendar gardener You should know that strawberry beds are renewed every 3-4 years. In order for strawberry bushes to give birth well, they must be replanted gradually.
If you replant one bed every year, you will always have a good harvest. It is best to have three strawberry beds on your property; you will replant them every three years. The locations for the beds are changed periodically.
The best predecessors for strawberries are root vegetables - beets, carrots, radishes. It will grow well after dill, celery, lettuce, and garlic.
It is not recommended to plant strawberries after potatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, peppers, and cabbage. If the plants have been infected with viral diseases, they will spread to the strawberry bushes.
Preparing beds for planting strawberries
Strawberries have no special soil requirements. It is suitable for all types of soil. The best harvest of berries can be harvested if you grow strawberries in sandy loam, loamy soil, black soil.
Productivity will decrease if strawberry bushes are planted in peat, sandy, clayey, soddy-podzolic soil. The berry bush will not grow on swampy soil.
Before planting, plants must be preparatory work, improving the composition of the soil. It is best to add a little peat, manure and humus to heavy clay soil. This will improve aeration.
You can also sow green manure. Mustard and lupine are planted in the beds where they plan to grow strawberries. In the spring they are mowed and dug in, mixed with the top layer of soil. This procedure improves the soil structure and enriches the soil with nitrogen.
Thanks to it, less fertilizer will be required. Weeds will be easier to control. In addition, pests are afraid of these plants. Growing green manure will help gardeners save money.
If there is no time to grow green manure, 100 grams of superphosphate, 60 grams of potassium salt, 10 kilograms of humus (per square kilometer of land) should be added to the soil before planting strawberries.
Pests love to eat strawberries. Greatest danger It is represented by wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and strawberry nematodes. It is very important to check the future bed to ensure that there are no pest larvae there. If you find them, you need to treat the soil with water with the addition of ammonia. It is equally important to clear the area of weeds.
Strawberries prefer well-lit areas. It is a “voracious” berry. For normal growth and development, she needs not only good land, but also compost. Vermicompost or manure and ash should be added to the soil.
Strawberry seedlings need deep and wide holes. There should be a distance between them of at least 30-50 cm. An interval of 40 cm is maintained between the rows. After removing the soil from the holes, it must be mixed with a bucket of compost and two glasses of rotted manure. The prepared soil is poured back into the holes, making small mounds in the center of the grooves.
Selection of planting material, preparation of seedlings
To get a good strawberry harvest, you need to choose the right seedlings.
Preference should be given to bushes with a root collar with a diameter of more than 6 mm. Seedlings should have a fibrous root system with root shoots more than 7 cm. Good seedlings have 3-5 formed leaves and white succulent roots.
If you buy seedlings at the market or take them from neighbors, they should be planted quickly. If it is not possible to plant it right away, it can be dug into damp, loose soil in a shaded area or placed in a cool room, having first wrapped the roots in slightly wetted moss.
If you are planting young bushes grown from seeds, then a few days before planting the strawberries, the seedlings should be placed in a cool place. Before planting, the roots should be dipped in a clay mash. This will prevent them from drying out and improve their survival rate in a new place.
Rules for planting strawberry seedlings
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- Strawberry bush seedlings must be planted in moist soil. It is best to do this in cloudy weather in the evening.
- During planting, seedlings should be in the shade.
- A root system that is too long is shortened to 7-10 cm.
- An hour before planting strawberry seedlings, the seedlings are well watered or soaked in a biogrowth stimulator.
- Many experienced gardeners Before planting, strawberry bushes are kept in garlic infusion. This procedure repels pests.
- Excess leaves on seedlings are removed.
When planting, each strawberry bush is placed on an earthen mound so that the growing point comes into contact with the surface of the bed. The roots of the plant must be spread along the slopes of the mound. Holding the berry bush, it is covered with earth and spilled with water. To prevent the soil from drying out, the holes of plants that have been watered are sprinkled with earth or humus. Immediately after planting, the soil must be loosened so that water flows freely to the strawberry roots.
Strawberry propagation by mustache
You can propagate strawberries with a mustache. When fruits appear on the bush, to obtain new offspring, you should choose the most promising bushes with large and healthy berries. They must be annual or biennial.
For propagation, fairly large rosettes are chosen that extend from the bushes. They are planted in a seedling pot and pinned. Only the largest sockets should be left.
Creeping shoots that connect the rosette to the strawberry bush are removed. You also need to get rid of second- and third-order mustaches.
When 4-6 leaves appear in July, cut off the remaining tendrils and transplant the bush to permanent place. In this case, there is no need to remove soil residues from the roots. After transplanting, the strawberry bush must be watered.
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Growing under agrofibre
By growing bushes under agrofibre, the strawberry harvest can be harvested one week earlier. After the snow melts, the berry bushes are covered with agrofibre, which will protect them from severe frosts and drafts. Thanks to him, inside the bushes there will be optimal temperature, which is necessary for optimal growth and plant development. In stable weather, when planting material nothing will threaten, you can remove it.
Thanks to agrofibre and tunnel delicious berry ripens two weeks earlier. To do this, long wire frames are installed along the strawberry rows at a distance of one meter. For this purpose, thick wire (4-6 mm) is used. The frames are deepened 25-30 cm in depth. They must be fastened on top and covered with agrofibre, burying the ends in the ground. During warm weather, the ends of the agrofibre are opened slightly for ventilation. When the weather is stable, the material is opened completely. Cover the strawberry beds with agrofibre after the plant has flowered.
You can not only cover strawberries non-woven material, but also plant strawberry seedlings on covering material. I often use black covering material.
To do this, the prepared beds are covered with agrofibre and cross-shaped slots are made in it for planting and bushes at a distance of 40 by 40 cm.
Strawberry tendrils or seedlings are planted in these holes and watered well.
Maintenance is kept to a minimum - you need to monitor watering.
- Weeds do not germinate under dense fabric.
- Agrofibre allows air and water to pass through
- The temperature of the earth is several degrees higher
- The berries do not come into contact with the ground - they do not rot and are always clean
Rules for caring for strawberry seedlings
After planting, strawberries are quite difficult to care for. Planted strawberries must have a healthy and strong root system. If peduncles and tendrils appear on the strawberry bushes, they must be removed.
The first days after planting, the berry bush needs moderate watering. The plant is watered from a watering can with small portions of water. Top layer The soil should always be moist. Moisture helps new roots grow. Old roots help support the bush. After ten days of watering, increase the amount of water, but water the plant less frequently so that its roots absorb moisture well.
20 days after planting, the bushes will be ready for wintering. At unfavorable conditions– in 50 days.
Strawberries are not afraid of rain and frost. The greatest danger for it is dry weather. Before severe frosts, the bushes should be well watered.
In winter, snow cover will protect the plant from severe frosts. If you live in a region with little snow in winter, you need to take care of the plant in advance. After planting, the area with planted strawberries must be mulched. It is best to use pine needles as a material for mulch. It not only repels pests, but also protects the plant from diseases. If there are no pine needles, straw, dry leaves, hay, sawdust will do. Without shelter, the plant will die.
In early spring, the old mulch under which it spent the winter is removed from the site. Thawed strawberry bushes are cleaned and old and deformed leaves are removed.
To remove all kinds of pests and warm the soil, remove 3 cm of the top layer of soil. The soil is thoroughly loosened.
Look
Video about planting strawberries with a mustache
Planting strawberries in the fall is the key to a new harvest for several years.
Best regards, Sofya Guseva.
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