If you've ever looked at a good-quality clay tile roof, you've probably wondered: what holds all the shards together? Don't they fly off for an hour? How many people do you need to install natural tiles at such a height, and is it really possible for just one or two people to do it? And do skill and experience play a big role in such a process?
Such questions always arise for those who decide on this beautiful and centuries-old roofing covering. After all, with fragile modern analogues everything is more or less clear: cut, stick, secure with a self-tapping screw - and everything is ready. What to do with such heavy weight elements as ceramic tiles, what to fasten them with and how to ensure the safety of people below?
Yes, of course, from century to century roofing masters passed on and improved their experience, but they also baked shards individually and by hand. And modern manufacturers have not only established large-scale production, but also completely changed the approach to installing tiles, for which they have shown ingenuity and added special accessories.
Where to start then? We will now try to illustrate the entire process in as much detail as possible.
Let's start with the most important thing - design. In addition to the shingles themselves, you will need waterproofing substrates, an eaves overhang and a ridge with a valley:
Think in advance which of these elements you will need, how many tiles will be used for the slopes (calculate by area, and for 1 square meter the consumption is usually 9-15 shards).
And also decide right at this stage whether you will use the attic space as a living space in the future, because the structure of the roofing pie itself depends on this:
Stage II. Assembling the rafter system
Proper and high-quality installation is one of the most important conditions for the durability of a tiled roof. Let's look at its main stages. Let's start with the preparatory work.
Before laying the tiles, be sure to check the geometry of the rafter structure, measure the diagonals and compare their lengths. Any unevenness must be leveled out because tile locks have an extremely small range of motion.
Those. You will not be able to correct defects using the roofing itself, unlike a soft roof, which can go around any radius.
Therefore, arm yourself with a two-meter strip or cord and check all planes. The deviation should not be more than 5 mm along a length of 2 m. Now, for convenience, arrange the tiles in stacks of five or six pieces on opposite slopes to create an even load on the rafters.
If you have decided on the roofing pie, proceed to installing the rafter system. The optimal rafter pitch is up to 75 cm, because natural tiles have quite a significant weight.
The sheathing is the base on which the tiles rest, so it is important to correctly calculate the sheathing pitch so that you get a whole number of tiles on the roof. Therefore, using a level, make sure that the beam is located strictly on a horizontal surface. Use softwood beams, without passing knots and wane. For rafters that are installed in increments:
- no more than 75 cm, take bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm;
- exceed 90 cm, bars 40 by 50 mm are needed;
- if the rafter pitch reaches 110 cm, then the bars should measure 40 by 60 mm or 50 by 50.
To make the correct marking of the rows, a marking cord is used. It is pulled according to the marks made.
Consider especially carefully the location of the counter-lattice where the attic window will be located:
Now proceed to installing the eaves strip or drip line, the task of which is to remove condensation and prevent the wooden structures from getting wet.
Installing drip pipes is generally the simplest of all installations:
Stage III. Installation of waterproofing and sheathing
Once the base is ready, proceed to the waterproofing device:
- Step 1. Nail the bars on both sides of the valley to the rafter legs.
- Step 2. Place the waterproofing membrane on top of the counter-lattice, always with the inscription and the front surface facing up.
- Step 3. Trim it along the edge of the eaves overhang with a margin of at least 15 cm. Lay it starting from the lower right corner and fix it with a stapler, aligning it with the drip line. Double-sided tape will help you with this.
Here's what it looks like in practice:
Now nail the counter-lattice directly to the rafters, on top of the membrane, at intervals of approximately 30 cm. Cover the ventilation gap under the eaves with a perforated ventilation tape.
To find out the optimal position of the bottom support sheathing, you need to try on the shingles from the bottom row and the gutter bracket. The support sheathing beam should be fixed at a distance of 32 to 39 cm from the bottom edge:
At this stage, it is very important to properly waterproof the gable overhangs:
By the way, to make the gable overhangs look beautiful, special side tiles are attached to them.
You can also resort to the traditional method by arranging the pediment with carved boards, which are also called piers. They just need to be treated with an antiseptic and protected with a metal apron.
Stage IV. Gutter installation
Now install the gutter on the pre-mounted mount. Attach the drainpipe clamp to the wall of the building and assemble the elbows with connecting elements.
Cover the ends of the gutter on the gables with a universal cap so that the gutter does not interfere with the installation of the lower gable tiles.
And connect the straight elements of the gutter with a joining element and close it from the inside using clamps that are attached to the additional sheathing:
Stage V. Working with the valley
Lay the valleys starting from the eaves overhang, from bottom to top. After laying, it can be trimmed by 3-4 cm to prevent the groove at the top from slipping.
If you need to choose the exact size of the valley, then follow this simple principle:
- if the length of the valley is no more than 4 meters, the width of each half should be 20 cm, and about 55 cm when unfolded.
- if the valley is long enough, more than 4 meters, then when unfolded the steel sheet should be at least 66 cm wide.
Secure the valley to the sheathing with two screws. Trim the tabs on both sides for a tight fit, secure with self-tapping screws, and seal their joint with sealing tape.
At each edge of the valley groove, install a self-adhesive foam rubber strip with water-repellent impregnation.
On both sides of the valley, along the entire eaves overhang, an overhang aero-element is attached, which should not extend into the valley further than 10 cm from the edge of the groove, otherwise it will trap debris, fallen leaves and snow melting there.
Make sure that the visible part of the valley is at least 13 and 15 cm. The fact is that if the groove is completely covered with tiles, then rainwater will accumulate in it.
Stage VI. Laying tiles on slopes
So, now that everything is ready, try on the gable tiles on the gable overhang, which should lie with a gap of 1 cm from the front board.
On the sheathing, mark the left edge of the pediment tiles, and to the left of it, mark the position of future columns after 90 cm, at the rate of 30 cm per column.
Using string, apply these markings to the sheathing. Now lay out the lower first row of tiles freely, while carefully checking the position of every third tile using the previously made marks.
The support spike, which will rest on the front board, needs to be knocked down with a hammer, as in this photo master class:
Now fasten each tile of the bottom row with a self-tapping screw through the holes drilled in the ridge, and lay out the first column of gable tiles along the previously marked vertical line. At the same time, fasten each tile at the top with two screws.
After this, lay the tiles on the slope, from bottom to top, along the vertical markings applied to the sheathing:
To walk on a tile roof, all you need is a harness—you can step on it anywhere. Start laying and marking tiles on hip and hip roofs from the middle of the slope. To do this, you will need to find the middle of the triangle: simply lay out a vertical row of tiles from the very top, right in the center, and now lay the bottom row.
After this, mark the vertical rows where you can, and lay the tiles from bottom to top, in rows, starting from the middle of the slope towards the ridges.
Stage VII. Fixing tiles using different methods
Now let's talk about fastening the tiles. Up to 60 degrees, most of the tiles do not need to be fastened at all; only the bottom row on the overhang, the top ridge rows and the side gable rows must be fixed.
They also fasten all the trimmed tiles, which are usually located on the valley, ridges and adjacent to the walls, roof windows and hatches. In regions with strong winds, shards are additionally secured with wire.
But groove tiles, which are also called castle tiles, are produced separately. It has the largest area and profiled shape, and this tile differs from others in the presence of locks.
The locks consist of two edges, top and side, which overlap the adjacent ones, snap into place and ensure reliable tightness of the coating. In addition, at the bottom, such tiles have protrusions that, during installation, cling to the sheathing bars.
The most popular models of such tiles are double S-shaped, Dutch and S-shaped Marseilles. Most of them have sliding locks, so the shingle periods can be made as wide or as narrow as possible. Thanks to the presence of such sliding locks, the tiles fit perfectly into the existing spacing of the bars, and there is no need to trim them:
In addition, basically all tiles today are produced with two manufactured holes for screws. They are not end-to-end, it is worth noting.
Therefore, if you decide to fasten the tiles, then these holes need to be drilled with a 6 mm drill and fixed at the top to the sheathing using two anti-corrosion screws 4.5 by 50 mm, and at the bottom with anti-wind clamps.
Also, if the slope has a length of more than 4.5 m, additional ventilation tiles must be installed on it. This is placed in the third row, in increments of 1 meter. If the slope is more than 7 m, then the ventilation tiles are laid in two rows:
Ventilation tiles are also needed where chimneys or roof windows are located, because these create obstacles to the air circulation under cover.
Stage VIII. Window bypass and waterproofing of junctions
There, natural shingles go around the skylights, you will most likely need half shingles (unless you timed everything perfectly). Place it next to the others and try to close the joints as much as possible.
We have prepared for you a detailed master class on waterproofing the junctions of natural tiles with windows and chimney pipes, so that you can understand all the intricacies of such work:
Here is another example of how to “fit” a window into a tiled roof:
Stage IX. Trimming tiles for valley joints
To correctly lay the tiles in the valley, use a string on the groove to mark the hanging line so that the overlap of the tiles on the groove is 8-10 cm. After this, cut the tiles at an angle along the marked line. Just don't use small, triangular pieces of shingles that are difficult to secure.
To move the column and ensure quality fastening, you will need half shingles. Approximate consumption – 1 piece for 2 rows:
For convenience, first number the cut tiles and remove them from the sheathing. To cut tiles, we advise you to take a miter saw with a power of 2 kW and a diamond blade with a diameter of 22.23 cm, which is specially designed for dry cutting of heavy concrete. Protect your eyes with goggles or your face with a respirator.
By the way, accuracy will be achieved on a water-cooled machine. Wash the cut tiles with water to remove dust and let them dry. Since you will not cover the cut edges with anything, cover them with cold engobe to match the color of the roof - this is sold immediately with the tiles.
To properly secure the cut tiles to the ridges, use special stainless steel clamps. These clamps come in two types:
- anti-wind, which attract the tiles to the sheathing;
- universal, which support the tiles in weight.
The wire fastener is screwed to a nail, which is driven into the nearest lath. And sometimes the wire is used so thick that it itself is driven directly into the sheathing instead of a nail.
Stage X. Installation of ridge tiles
To install a natural tile roof ridge, follow our detailed tutorials. Here's how to install a ridge on a ceramic tile roof:
If you have a residential attic under such a roof, then use an aero element that has the largest cross-section for ventilation - this is “Figarol”. If there is only a cold attic in the under-roof space, then any other aero element will provide ventilation.
To install ridge shingles, bend the beam holders so that when installing the beam, the distance from the top edge of the beam to the top edge of the rafter matches what you previously measured.
Trim the tiles so that the gap remains 2-3 cm. Fasten the trimmed tiles to the sheathing with corrosion-resistant 4.5 and 50 mm screws, or directly to the ridge using copper wire. Special stainless steel clamps are also suitable.
You will need to place one holder at the end and the beginning. After this, tighten the lace and install the intermediate fastener directly along it.
Stage XI. Fixing the spine tiles
The installation of hip roof ridges begins with the installation of spine bars. To calculate their height, you need to lay two ridge tiles on top of the rows. Start measuring from the narrow end. The spine block should be lower than the ridge tile so that it rests on the waves nearby. Leave at least 1 cm between the spine bar and the inner surface of the ridge tiles.
Now be careful! The metal fastenings of the spine beam must be bent and installed at the beginning and end of the spine. Mark the intermediate brackets along the lace in increments of no more than 60 cm.
Install the backbone beam directly into the mount and secure with nails or self-tapping screws. To ensure ventilation of the roof, cut the tiles on the ridges diagonally with a gap of 1-3 cm from the ridge beam and secure them with clamps, which are secured with screws on the opposite side:
On a triangular slope, mark the middle of the slope on the lowest and highest sheathing, and from this mark, to the right and left towards the ridges, lay out the bottom row. Lay out all the following rows as well, starting from the center.
To ventilate the under-roof space, you can use Figarol roll material. Roll it along the axial tape for the backbone beam and secure it with a regular construction stapler, in increments of 30 cm.
Remove the protective tapes from the rubber strips and press the material on the sides with a roller (just do not press the central part). At the top of the hip, “Figarol” is laid with an overlap on another slope.
Additionally, for waterproofing, you can use Wakaflex waterproofing tape:
Begin installing the initial spine shingles with a slight overhang, and secure with two screws and plastic washers through the drilled holes in the top and middle of the shingles.
All upper spine tiles must be trimmed at the top of the hip along the joint line. Simply lay the hip tiles on top, and their outline should be marked on the ridge tiles so that they are cut 6 cm above this line. And finally, the finishing work. Lay out the ridge tiles on the ridge in the same pattern as on the hip, the only thing is that the tiles that go to the valley need to be trimmed on both sides.
To create a beautiful roof spine, use starter spine shingles. It should be installed with a slight allowance and secured with galvanized screws 5x70 or 5x100 mm.
Stage XI. Additional roofing elements
Pay attention to the correct organization of the eaves overhang, which must meet all technical requirements: collect water and provide air access to the under-roof space for high-quality roof ventilation. And also not to be devoid of aesthetic appeal.
Additionally, a ventilation tape and a cornice aero element are installed here:
At the finishing stage, the ends of the slopes are covered with a protective strip made of steel sheet. Further along the length of the rafters, at the edge of the eaves overhang, an aero-element against birds is fixed, if the rafters are less than 8 meters, and a rigid profile with perforation, if the rafters are longer than 8 meters. At the same time, it supports the bottom row of tiles.
As you have already seen, old and modern technologies combine perfectly with each other, and allow you to build houses without losing the spirit of their history, while taking only the best from centuries of experience.
The magnificent appearance of the roofing decking must be combined with the fulfillment of this material’s purpose, that is, it is important to protect the roof as reliably as possible from moisture, cold air and noise. One of the roofing materials that meets these requirements is tiles. It is advisable to make a quantitative calculation of it when purchasing, taking into account the size of the roof and the footage of one pack. But which tiles are best to buy? Now we will look at.
Tile building materials are made from various raw materials. Depending on this, tile tiles are divided into types that will have characteristic qualities and features. Let's name some types:
- composite,
- bitumen,
- ceramic,
- copper,
- polymer-sand,
- cement-sand.
Let's take a closer look at them.
Copper tiles are durable and maintainable, last for more than a hundred years, and are relatively light in weight (about twelve kilograms). Copper material has the disadvantage of being soft. Therefore, it must be placed carefully so as not to deform. When installing this type, a “false roof” is used. Copper tiles are produced in different forms:
- in the form of a cone,
- scales,
- volumetric rhombus,
- copper ploughshare,
- brick,
- in the form of bricks,
- double shingles,
- can take on an individual shape depending on the wishes of the client.
The composition of polymer-sand tiles includes river sand and a binder polymer. In addition to durability, the coating has impact resistance, resistance to damage by living organisms, the ability to absorb noise, moisture permeability, maintainability, fire safety, light weight and a variety of colors and shapes.
Cement-sand tiles consist of compressed cement mortar. The coating has high strength parameters, it is durable and frost-resistant, and has excellent sound and thermal insulation. Its price is affordable.
Advice!
Cement-sand tiles have a high specific gravity. When installing it, it is necessary to lay a reinforced structure. Next, for convenience, we decided to consider separately some types of tiles.
Soft or flexible tiles are very popular in Russia. The material is ideal for typical weather in the latitudes of our country. Soft tiles have low thermal conductivity and high noise insulation. Flexible tiles are easy to install. A continuous moisture-resistant board or plywood sheathing should be placed under it.
One of the roofing materials classified as soft is bituminous shingles. This type is new, it includes:
- fiberglass,
- modified bitumen,
- stone pavement.
Such tiles do not absorb moisture, do not rot, do not corrode, and are often used to cover roofs of complex shapes.
Advice!
Work with this roofing material is carried out at temperatures up to five degrees Celsius. Roof tiles are not installed during the cold season.
Ceramic tiles are of natural origin - they are based on slate. This building material is very durable; it is used to cover houses and buildings of various categories. Ceramic tile coating is strong, durable, fire resistant. The material looks beautiful and comes in a variety of colors, but its price remains high.
A completely new roof covering - composite tiles - consists of aluzinc and natural stone granules. Composite roofing tiles are an excellent sound insulator for the attic, are more durable than metal tiles, are resistant to mechanical damage, and do not rust. It is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, ultraviolet radiation and heavy loads. The material is guaranteed to retain its properties for thirty-five years.
A few more words about sand tiles. Small in size, it is easy to install and repair. It can be used on roofs with a slight slope. But, I repeat, the tiles require the construction of a reinforced base, the production of which is expensive.
Advice!
The tiles must be stored under a canopy or covered with film, even during construction and installation work.
Over time, roof tiles need to be repaired due to the influence of the external environment. Shingles repair involves performing roof repairs. To determine the extent of damage to the roof, it is necessary to diagnose it. The roof is checked first from the inside during or after precipitation, then from the outside. Joints, places near pipes, ridges, ribs, and antennas are diagnosed with special care.
Tile roof repair work includes:
- replacing tiles,
- in coating tile joints,
- in laying the waterproofing layer,
- in strengthening the roof frame.
Despite certain features of various tile materials, there is a general principle for their installation. Let's write about.
The installation principle is that the bottom row of tiles is covered by the top. Before laying the tile covering, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, which consists of performing calculations and lathing. The sheathing is made of six by four, five by five bars. The correct installation of the tiles depends on how well this work is done. Under the tiled flooring, a slope is made from 22 to 60 degrees.
Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to complete the roofing and tin work and arrange ventilation. The roof is installed from right to left from the lower right corner of the roof. Every fourth tile is attached to the covering and each one separately - along ridges, cornices, ventilation devices, openings, and chimneys. If the slope is sixty degrees, then the tiles are attached one at a time. The tiles are laid either in columns with vertical seams, or in a checkerboard pattern with bandaging. Side tiles are placed on the side slopes.
Natural ceramic tiles are rightfully considered one of the oldest roofing coverings. During this time, it has proven excellent performance characteristics to consumers; such roofs last for many decades, or even centuries.
Modern technologies and materials have allowed manufacturers to significantly improve the characteristics of ceramic tiles and eliminate traditional disadvantages. One of the disadvantages was considered to be the great complexity and labor intensity of roofing work. Now this problem is not considered urgent; designers have developed special locks, which not only make laying tiles easier and faster, but also significantly increase the reliability, durability and tightness of the roof.
Ceramic tiles belong to an elite coating; such roofs can only be seen on prestigious houses, historical or religious buildings. Ordinary consumers are of little interest in the technology of installing tiles, but they all pay attention to the appearance. And it depends on two components.
Geometry of tiles
The more complex the geometry, the more expensive the material. The fact is that the productivity of industrial equipment largely depends on geometry, and this factor has a decisive influence on production costs.
What profile can the tiles have?
- Flat. The simplest profile and the cheapest tile. Manufactured on continuous pressing lines with further piece-by-piece cutting. Disadvantage: the strength of the fastening is questionable among some developers, and the large overlap area reduces the useful dimensions of each tile.
- Tray. Traditional European material, often used in places of worship and monasteries. Hence the second name “Monk-Nun”. In all operational parameters it is superior to flat.
- S-shaped. In terms of tightness of the coating, it occupies a leading position; the original shape completely eliminates the wetting of the rafter system due to slanting rain.
There are differences between the types of locks for fixing individual tiles, but they do not affect the installation technology.
Ceramic tiles are a piece of roofing material that has many advantages over other coatings. For example, the service life of a tiled roof is hundreds of years. You can learn more about the advantages of tiles, their disadvantages and characteristics
Features of processing external surfaces
In ancient times, ceramic tiles had only one color, which depended on the chemical composition of the clay. Currently, technology has gone so far that it has enabled manufacturers to change not only the color, but also the physical characteristics of the finishing front surfaces of the tiles.
| Type of outer covering | Short description |
|---|---|
| This is the natural color of clay obtained after annealing. Depending on the annealing temperature and the chemical composition of the clay, it can have several shades. The natural color is indicated by the surface of the tile - it is slightly rough, much like the surface of facing red brick. |
| This color is achieved by complicating the production technology of roofing material and makes it possible to achieve the most identical shades of different batches of tiles. The fact is that slight differences in colors create difficulties during installation. It has to be constantly stirred, otherwise large spots with multi-colored shades may appear on the roof. This significantly worsens the appearance of the building. To eliminate such phenomena, a special clay milk with a stable chemical composition is baked onto the top layer of the tiles. After firing, the surface of all tiles becomes completely identical. |
| The most complex treatment of the outer surface of the tiles significantly improves all the performance characteristics of the roof. The disadvantage is a significant increase in cost. Glazed tiles are fired in two stages. At the first stage, only the clay is fired, then a special composition is applied and the tiles are again fed into the kiln for re-firing. |
Modern ceramic tiles resemble traditional ones in only two things: the name and the material used. All other characteristics: appearance, size and shape, physical and operational characteristics differ significantly. Laying technology has also undergone significant changes; now work is done much easier and faster. But this does not mean that installing ceramic tiles is as easy as metal roofing. As before, such work can only be performed by the most experienced, responsible and conscientious roofers.
Conventionally, the technology can be divided into two large and equally important stages: preparatory and main
Preparatory stage
At this stage, the technology provides for the construction of a rafter system, sheathing, special layers of waterproofing, etc. Let us consider these works in more detail.
To install the tiles, you need to prepare measuring tools, a grinder with a diamond blade for cutting tiles, a screwdriver, pliers and pliers, a stapler and a wood saw.
Important. During installation, be sure to follow safety rules, work with safety systems, and protect your respiratory and vision organs.
Step 1.
To do this, you need to find out the number of columns (vertical rows) of the tiles. In this case, it must be taken into account that the extension beyond the outermost side rafters should not exceed 33 cm.
Make your calculations very carefully, tiles are an expensive material, and excess has a negative impact on the overall estimated cost of the roof.
Each slope must be calculated separately, taking into account the nomenclature and number of special additional elements and tiles, the need for cutting, the length of ridges and valleys, the presence of chimneys, ventilation pipes and other utilities. Then the data is summarized and only after that the material is purchased. Elements of the drainage system are purchased separately.
Step 2. Installation of drip. It is needed to drain condensate that gets onto the protective membrane. The element is nailed along the entire length of the cornice with an overlap of approximately 10 cm. When joining in valleys, metal strips are cut at appropriate angles, the amount of overlap depends on the angle parameters.
Step 3. Installation of sheathing in valleys. These are the most complex and most dangerous areas of the rafter system; it is here that leaks most often appear and wooden structures rot prematurely. In the valleys, nail diagonal counter-lattice bars to the rafter legs; the lower ends should be sawn flush with the metal cornice strips. A waterproofing system must be installed in the valley; any modern fabric can be used.
Step 4. Nail the membrane along the entire length of the slopes, direction from bottom to top, overlap within 10–15 cm. The canvas is fixed to the rafters with a stapler. The membrane is glued to the drip edge of the eaves with double-sided tape. Avoid wrinkles.
Step 5. Nail the counter-lattice bars; they are fixed to the rafters on top of the membrane.
Practical advice. The length of the bars is no more than 1.5 m; leave holes between them for natural ventilation of the under-roof space.
In order to make it convenient and safe to work on the ramp, a temporary counter-lattice can be nailed to the bars in several places; it is used only for the movement of workers. Subsequently, as the main counter-lattice is manufactured, the temporary bars are removed.
Step 6. Cover the valley and ridge on the second side of the slope. The overlap of the material on the triangular slope should be approximately 5 cm. The top row is always laid on the bottom, the overlap in these places is at least ten centimeters.
Laying material on the roof ridge
Step 7 Mount the counter-lattice on triangular and rectangular slopes. If the roof is a complex hip roof, then bars are nailed on the ridges along the joint line of the slopes, then the vertical bars of the counter-lattice are nailed in, be sure to leave a gap between them and the diagonal ones for ventilation.
Step 8 Nail the bottom batten of the sheathing along the perimeter of the roof along the eaves; at the joining points it must be filed down for a tight connection. Use perforated tape to close the ventilation gap.
Installation of bottom bars
Step 9 Installation of the bottom sheathing. This is a more complex and very important technological operation that requires very careful marking. First you need to know the exact position of the bracket for fixing the gutter and tiles of the first row.
Do not forget that the overhang of the tiles into the gutter should not exceed a third of its diameter. Specific values are further adjusted depending on the vertical distance between the gutter and tiles.
After the fitting has been done several times, finally mark the position of the sheathing batten under the top of the shingles. Nail the counter-lattice bars only to a level; they must be strictly horizontal.
Step 10 Nail the top ridge bars of the counter-lattice. Place them at a distance of 3 cm from the ridge line. It is better to do the final marking of the position of the bars along the entire slope using a special beating rope.
Step 11 Installation of sheathing on slopes. First, distance calculations and markings are made. Take these operations very seriously; all further roofing work depends on them.
Important. Calculation of the counter-lattice must be done in such a way that entire rows of tiles must fit on the slope. Such work can only be performed by professional roofers; amateurs should not try to do it. The consequences of the mistake are the need to completely dismantle not only the roof, but also the counter-lattice.
How to make calculations and markings correctly?
- Measure the distance between the lower support bar and the last one near the ridge.
- Remember that the distance at the overhang should be within 32–39 cm, in other areas the lathing pitch is 31.2–34.5 cm. Parameters may vary depending on the manufacturer, the exact data is always specified in the instructions.
- Divide the resulting length by the size of the allowable step so that you get a whole number of rows.
- Using a tape measure, make marks on the first and last vertical slats of the counter-lattice.
- Marking the rows must be done with a special marking cord. Beat off your own lines for each row of counter-lattice.
Please note that during the manufacture of counter-lattice, roofers never use templates, but mark the position of each bar individually. This algorithm of actions significantly reduces the likelihood of errors. This completes the first stage, you can proceed to the second.
Tile laying technology
Installation of tiles begins after installing the drainage system, or at least after screwing in the gutter hooks. Each manufacturer of drainage systems recommends its own technology; you should read the instructions and follow its requirements.
Step 1. Work should begin with the valley gutters; they divert water to the spillways. The elements are fixed to the sheathing with special brackets in increments of ≈30 cm.
Step 2. Install the first gable shingle on the gable overhang.
Important. On the reverse side of the tile there is a special support spike; its presence is caused by the technological features of production. This tenon is not needed for the first row; it should be carefully knocked down with a hammer. Be careful not to crack the surface of the tiles. If the tenon is left in place, it will interfere with the correct installation of the coating.
Step 3. Mark 90 cm from the edge of the gable tile to the left. This is the distance between the three vertical columns of the tile. Make such marks along the entire length of the slope, then, using string, apply markings along the entire height of the roof. The lines will help to constantly monitor the correct position of the tiles, which simplifies the installation of the roof and makes various technological errors unlikely.
Step 4. Lay out the first bottom row, attach each tile to the sheathing batten with nails or self-tapping screws. To do this, you need to drill holes in the comb.
Step 5. Lay out the vertical column of the gable row. All gable tiles also need to be fixed, but with at least two self-tapping screws.
Scheme of laying tiles, correct trimming. Shown in pink are tiles sawn in half lengthwise.
Carefully check the position of the rows you have made. Everything is normal - excellent. Then the tiles are laid out from right to left from bottom to top. Nothing is nailed down in these areas, which greatly speeds up the process of covering the roof. In areas of valleys and at the ridge, the tiles again need to be screwed. The ridge elements are fixed with special devices.
Fastening the center beam and tiles near the valley
Laying the first shingles on the ridge
Laying tiles on a ridge. Fastening the lower edge tile of the ridge
Video - Technology for laying ceramic tiles
The technology for laying natural roofing tiles has a number of features that must be observed when performing work. Houses were covered with ceramics hundreds of years ago, but it still has not lost its relevance and popularity among homeowners, despite modern roofing materials that can imitate natural tile coverings quite well. But, unfortunately, not every owner can afford to install ceramic tiles, since they are considered elite materials. In addition to the high cost of the material itself, the work of laying it will also be expensive, because beautifully and correctly laid tiles require the participation of highly qualified craftsmen.
Features of ceramic tile roofing
Like any other natural material, fired clay tiles have many positive characteristics. But it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is its massiveness. The weight of the ceramic coating ranges from 40 to 70 kg per square meter, which requires reinforcement of the rafter structure. This is achieved either by increasing the cross-section of the rafters, which is not at all necessary, or by decreasing their pitch. But in both cases, material costs increase significantly.
Installation of natural tiles with a roof slope of up to 22 degrees requires the installation of an additional waterproofing layer. And with a slope of more than 50 degrees, the laying technology requires additional fastening of the tile elements with screws or clamps.
Ceramic tiles are capable of creating perfect roofing systems and high-quality coatings on roofs of any architectural shape.
Additional parts, on the one hand, reduce the time required to complete the work, but some of them, on the contrary, complicate the installation of the roof and increase the time for its installation. The set of piece tiles includes the following elements:
- privates;
- ridge;
- checkpoints;
- ventilation;
- half;
- lateral;
- pediment;
- decorative.
Among the advantages of tiles and tiled roofing are:
- durability (more than 100 years);
- noiselessness;
- environmental friendliness;
- fire resistance;
- frost resistance;
- absence of static electricity on the surface;
- does not require periodic painting;
- does not respond to biological influences.
In addition to the heavy weight, the fragility of ceramics is a negative characteristic, so when transporting and laying tiles it should be handled carefully and with care.
Calculation of materials for tiled roofing
Even at the design stage, the materials required for the work are calculated. For these purposes, professionals use special computer programs that allow them to determine as accurately as possible how many natural tiles are needed, what additional elements will be installed, and how many fasteners need to be purchased.
If desired, approximate calculations of the basic materials required for a tiled roof can be made independently.
Roof tiles
The dimensions of piece tiles have indicators of the total and usable area. To determine its quantity you need to know:
- the length and width of each slope, taking into account the slope of the roof and the size of the overhangs;
- the useful width of the material indicated by the manufacturer;
- the amount of overlap when laying tile rows, depending on the slope of the roof and affecting the useful length of the tiles.
Installation of ceramic tiles with a slope slope of up to 25 degrees is carried out with an overlap of 100 mm, from 25 to 35 degrees - 75 mm, and more than 45 degrees - 45 mm. These indicators are subtracted from the total length of the piece tiles, resulting in a usable length, which is multiplied by the usable width to determine the usable area of one element.
Next, calculate the number of tiles in one square meter. To do this, the unit is divided by the usable area, expressed in square meters. To find out the total amount of material, the resulting figure is multiplied by square meters of roofing, and the results obtained are rounded up.
It should be noted that calculations must be made for each slope separately. When laying tiles, some parts have to be cut, which ultimately increases the amount of material required for installation.
There is a more accurate, but labor-intensive calculation method. The length of the slope determines the number of tiles that will be laid on the roof, based on the useful length of the element. This indicator determines the number of rows of tiles. Next, the number of tiles in one row is calculated.
The number of rows is multiplied by the number of tiles in a row, and the result is rounded up. In this case, it is recommended to add one row of tiles for each slope for trimming and possible fighting. For complex roofs, the area is divided into simple geometric shapes.
Additional elements for gables and ridges are calculated based on the length of the structures, not forgetting to round the result up.
Waterproofing
On roofs with a slope of up to 22 degrees, a waterproofing layer is installed. To do this, it is recommended to use a rolled membrane, laying it along the ridge and overhangs from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm. It is also required to leave 15 cm overlaps on the gables and overhangs, not forgetting about 15-20 cm overlaps at the locations of protruding corners. Overlaps are also left in areas adjacent to walls, chimneys, ventilation shafts, dormer windows, etc.
The membrane panels do not allow moisture to pass in, but facilitate its removal to the outside. In places where there is an overlap, stick tape onto the film or fasten it to the sheathing using a stapler. It is fixed along the perimeter and at junctions with tar paper nails or wooden slats. The overlaps may only be cut after the installation of the tiles has been completed.
The amount of waterproofing material can be calculated using a simplified formula. To do this, the total roof area, taking into account the slope, is multiplied by a factor of 1.4.
Rafters and sheathing
Tile roofing can only be laid on a sufficiently powerful rafter structure. This requirement is based on the large weight of the tiles themselves, to which the snow load is added during calculations, depending on the climatic zone.
As a rule, more massive beams are not used to strengthen the rafter legs; their optimal size is 75*150mm. The strength of the structure is increased by reducing the pitch of the rafters, which is chosen in the range from 60 to 90 cm.
The sheathing for ceramic tiles is made from square beams with a side size of 50mm or rectangular – 40*60mm. Lumber is laid along the eaves, the width of which is 15-20mm greater than that of ordinary elements.
The number of horizontal sheathing beams laid should correspond to the number of rows of tiles plus an additional cornice row.
The location of the beams is marked using a coated cord and templates that match the useful height of the tiles. If it is necessary to join horizontal slats, their connections are placed on the rafter legs.
Fasteners
- in places subject to increased wind load;
- the entire row along the cornice;
- on the gables and along the ridge;
- on roofs with a slope of more than 50 degrees (through one element).
Based on these requirements, fastening elements are calculated.
Installation of ceramic tiles
To ensure the normal operation of a tiled roof, care should be taken to ensure its ventilation in advance. The presence of a waterproofing layer implies the construction of two air gaps, one of which should be located between the thermal and waterproofing, and the second between the waterproofing membrane and the roofing.
This design promotes good under-roof ventilation and does not allow moisture to accumulate in the wooden elements of the roof and in the insulation.
In the first case, the gap is provided by installing the sheathing or installing an additional beam along the ridge. But there is no need for an air gap if a membrane film is installed as waterproofing. In the second case, the gap appears due to the counter-lattice.
Air flow occurs through ventilation holes located at the bottom of the slopes. The outflow of air masses is carried out through aerators and special openings located in the ridge structure. If the roof area is large, it is recommended to install ventilation windows on the gables to facilitate rapid ventilation of the under-roof space.
Before laying the tiles, they are evenly laid out over the entire surface of the roof in stacks of 5-6 pieces. This must be done on all slopes at once so that the rafter structure cannot warp under the weight of heavy tile tiles.
First, lay the top row of tiles along the ridge and the bottom row along the overhang, without attaching the tiles to the sheathing. If the layout is successful, the cornice row is fixed and the installation of tiles continues from bottom to top in the direction from right to left. The material is attached in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Next, the ridge and gable parts are laid.
An edged board is mounted on the ridge edge so that it does not touch the ridge elements, except for the attachment points. At the intersection of the pediment and the ridge, the tiles are adjusted in place by cutting ceramic parts. It is recommended to cut it on the ground using a grinder.
There are tabs on the back of the tiles for locking purposes. At the top there are holes measuring four millimeters. Through these holes, the ceramic tiles are attached to the sheathing using self-tapping screws. To secure it, you need to use self-tapping screws that do not rust, so that there are no leaks later.
The fastening of the tile sheet is not done too tightly. With this step, you don’t have to worry about the tiles shrinking in size due to changing weather conditions. In order to trim, you need to use a grinder or a hacksaw for cutting metal.
Installing tiles near the ridge
In order to secure the tiles to the ridge, you need to use a self-tapping screw measuring sixty-five millimeters. It is necessary that there are gaps between the top of the screw, the board and the ridge. This is done so that when the tiles expand due to weather conditions, the self-tapping screw does not burst. The tiles that lie on the ridge should cover the edge of the last row.
Attached to the article are 2 videos in which you can more clearly study all the aspects of laying tiles. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the process of laying tiles on the website of the tile manufacturer (in this case, Braas).
Drainage system
To use all the characteristics of the tiles, the installation of a water supply system (unorganized) is provided. Such a water supply system is installed on low buildings that have only one slope on the roof. You can also use organized water supply. This type of water supply is made of galvanized steel. This steel is coated with PVC polymer. Organized water pipes can be purchased at the store.
Ceramic tiles made by craftsmen from Germany. Roof tiles are the oldest building material known to mankind and used today. The process of making clay tiles includes four stages:
- The clay blank is poured into molds;
- Drying takes place in special places;
- Covered with a special coating of minerals and clay;
- Such a ceramic product is fired in a kiln at a temperature of about one thousand degrees.
In Russia, the most commonly used tiles are those made by German companies, as they are of higher quality, but tiles from Austria are also sold. This best roofing material has its advantages:
- Reliability (protects against unforeseen circumstances);
- Durability (will last quite a long time);
- Has an aesthetic appearance (looks great);
- It is fireproof (withstands high temperature fire);
- Withstands changes in temperature and climate (not afraid of frost and heat);
- Resistant to ultraviolet radiation;
- Does not transmit sound.