Metal tiles, as a roofing material, have long earned popularity among developers due to a number of its advantages. It is durable, practical, resistant to adverse external factors, can be used to cover buildings without regional restrictions. This cladding has light weight, and, therefore, does not require the construction of a reinforced rafter system, a solid foundation and walls.
The material is considered relatively inexpensive if you compare its cost, for example, with natural tiles or copper roofing. At the same time, roofs under metal tiles look quite aesthetically pleasing, and different shape metal profiles, a wide selection of textures and colors makes it possible to use this material to cover various objects.
Metal tiles can be used on all types most commonly used in private housing construction pitched roofs with an inclination angle greater than 14°. Laying the material is not complicated, but it has its own characteristics. So, information on how to cover a roof with metal tiles may be of interest to those who want to do installation work on one's own.
Proper arrangement of the base for metal tiles
Roofing can be done both on new buildings and on old buildings whose roofs require updating. During operation rafter system may slightly lose the correctness of geometric shapes or in some places become unusable.
Therefore, it needs to be checked for distortions and other defects that should be eliminated immediately. Control measurements are carried out along the diagonals of the slopes; they must be the same. Before the start roofing works they bring everything out through the roof necessary communications, install chimney pipes, and equip ventilation.
Covering a roof with metal tiles is impossible without installing a waterproofing layer, which allows you to remove condensation that inevitably appears on the lower edge of the sheets and drain excess moisture outside the roof.
Mount protective film start from the cornice, leaving a free edge of about 25 mm hanging from it. The following layers are applied to the previous ones with an overlap of 100 - 150 mm. Waterproofing is carried out completely along the entire plane of the slopes.
A slight sagging of the material between the rafters is acceptable (up to 20 mm). The film is secured with galvanized staples or nails along outside rafter legs. 
The next stage is the installation of the sheathing. For metal tiles, it is made using timber and boards. The first are selected with dimensions of 50 by 50 mm, the second - 30 by 100 mm. The elements are pre-treated with a good antiseptic.
It is mounted like this:
- First by rafter legs Vertical counter-lattice strips are nailed from the eaves to the ridge of the roof. For this purpose, timber is used.
- Next, boards are nailed to it, placing them strictly horizontally. The step between them is up to 450 mm and depends on the type of metal profile used. The exception is the distance from the first to the second plank, which is made 50 mm less.
- The first board also differs in its size. It should be 10 - 15 mm thicker than all the others to compensate for the difference that occurs in the corrugated material between the edge of the first sheet and all subsequent support points.
- The end strip is nailed above the boards of the ordinary sheathing by an amount equal to the thickness of the used roofing material. The roof overhang is closed flush with the façade board.
If a drain is installed, brackets for gutters are secured to the bottom board of the sheathing. The cornice strip is screwed on top so that it covers the wall of the gutter closest to the facade. The end of the waterproofing membrane is led into the drain, placing it along the eaves strip. Next, all that remains is to cover the roof with metal tiles.
In the area of the chimney, valleys, and attic windows, the sheathing is made continuous. Also in these places they strengthen required elements- aprons.
Installation of metal tiles on the roof
How to properly cover a roof with metal tiles? First, the roofing material must be properly prepared and, if necessary, cut according to the size of the slopes. If purchased in hardware store metal tiles have a protective film layer that must be removed during installation. Sheets are cut only with metal scissors and nothing else. Both hand and electric tools can be used. Having required sizes installation can begin.
On rectangular slopes, sheets are laid from the end. The material overhang is 40 mm. If the length of the roof does not exceed 6-7 m, installation is carried out in one sheet from the ridge to the eaves.
If the slope is longer, the parts are overlapped, the upper element is placed on the lower one with an overlap of 150 mm. On hip-type roofs, the fastening of sheets begins from the highest point in the center and then continues in both directions. The longitudinal connection of the roof parts occurs in one wave.
Before the final fastening of the sheets to the sheathing, the elements are first loosely joined together and aligned along the eaves. Fixation of roofing parts is carried out using self-tapping screws rubber gaskets under the transverse wave and into its lower part with a longitudinal connection.
When the installation of the sheets is completed, closing elements are installed at the ends and ridge. The end strips are fixed on both sides, on the roof and on the pediment. The distance between the fasteners is 0.5 - 0.6 m. If it is necessary to connect the planks, the overlap is 50 mm. Installation is carried out from the eaves to the ridge.
The valley strips are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the material. A seal with open openings is pre-installed on the ridge. ventilation gaps. Then the closing part is screwed on. The overlap between the slats is maintained at 100 mm. Fastening is carried out with 80 mm self-tapping screws.
Choosing roofing material is not an easy task. The roof must be reliable, beautiful, durable, and, preferably, inexpensive. All these requests are met by metal roofing. It should be added to the advantages, not the most complex installation, which even a person without roofing experience can handle with his own hands.
Metal roofing is beautiful, reliable, durable and inexpensive
Types of metal tiles
Metal tiles are formed from sheet metal 0.35-0.7 mm thick, onto which protective and decorative compounds are applied. It turns out to be a multi-layer cake. The basis of this building material- most often steel, but there are options made of copper and aluminum. Since aluminum and copper are much more expensive than steel, products made from them have high price. For this reason, copper or aluminum metal tiles are practically not found, but if desired, they can be delivered to order.
Both imported and domestic metal tiles are available for sale. The European version is strictly made of steel 0.5 mm thick - this is stated in the standard. Our GOST allows from 0.45 to 0.5 mm.
Except different materials bases, applied differently protective coating. First of all, there are two types of steel protection against oxidation - zinc and aluminum-zinc. The second option appeared not so long ago, but it is the one that provides better protection, although such treatment costs a little more.
More different compositions There is a finishing coating, one that, along with protection from atmospheric influences, gives the material one or another color.
Types of protective and decorative external coatings
The outer covering of metal tiles performs two functions simultaneously. It protects the base metal from corrosion and gives the material attractive appearance. Eat following types of this coating:
- The most common metal roofing has a glossy polyester (PE) coating - about 70% of the total number of roofs are covered with this type of material. All because he has average price and good characteristics. Layer thickness 25-30 microns, service life 5-10 years. This coating is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and corrosion, but is easily damaged mechanically - scratches appear even when removed large quantity snow. Therefore, polyester metal tiles are not recommended for use in regions with heavy snowfall. In other areas, to prevent massive snowfall, it is advisable to install a snow retention system. If you cover the roof with such material, you need to be careful during installation.
- Matte polyester (MPE) is obtained by adding Teflon. As a result, the film is more durable - its service life is 10-15 years, and can also be used in snowy regions. This composition is applied with a thickness of at least 35 microns. The disadvantage of tiles coated with matte polyester is the smaller range of colors (about 20 shades compared to 40 glossy).
- Plastisol (PVC) is a PVC-based composition. It has a beautiful structured surface and is applied in a layer of 200 microns, making the coating resistant to damage. The disadvantage is low UV resistance, which significantly narrows the range of use. In addition, in some countries, due to the presence of polyvinyl chloride in the composition, this coating is prohibited.
- Pural is a polyurethane-based coating with polymer additives. Available in glossy (PUR) and matte (MatPUR) versions. Layer thickness is 50 microns, service life is up to 30 years. This is one of the best options: resistant to mechanical damage (worse than palstizol, but better than all others), tolerates ultraviolet radiation and aggressive environments, and can be used for constructing roofs on the sea coast.
Pural is one of the most durable coatings
- Polydifluoride (PVF or PVDF) is a composition based on polyvinyl fluoride with the addition of acrylic (20%). The main advantage is the high elasticity of the coating, due to which, with a small thickness (30 microns), the film is very resistant to mechanical damage. Other advantages are a wide range of colors, resistance to fading, long term service - up to 30 years. The disadvantage is the highest price.
The most expensive and durable coating is polydifluoride.
It’s clear that when building a house you don’t want to spend extra money. Probably for this reason, most developers choose the most cheap option- metal tiles coated with polyester. But this is not the most best solution. Let's figure it out. The service life of metal tiles with polyester is no more than 5-10 years, average cost- with a metal thickness of 0.45 mm - about 260 rubles / m 2, with a steel thickness of 0.5 mm - 440 rubles / m 2. Even if the roofing material lasts 10 years, the price per square meter for a year will be 26 rubles and 44 rubles. Now let’s take a very good option - with pural coating. With a metal thickness of 0.5 mm, the cost is from 510 rubles/m2 to 635 rubles/m2 (depending on the manufacturer). Service life - 30 years. For a year of service it will be 12-17 rubles/m2. The difference is obvious. And this does not take into account the work of re-roofing, which is also time and money.
Profile types
When laying metal tiles, its geometric dimensions and wave parameters are important - the sheathing is calculated and installed for them. Also, the height of the wave determines the degree of rigidity of the sheet - for high wind loads, a material with a high wave (more than 50 mm) is needed - the hardest, in normal conditions metal tiles with a small wave (less than 50 mm) are suitable.
The waveform can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, more rounded or with straight lines. There are quite a large number different profiles. The table shows the geometric dimensions (usable width of the metal tile sheet, amount of overlap, wave parameters), which will be useful when calculating the quantity.
Metal roofing in 70% of cases is made from Monterrey profile. It has a round, slightly asymmetrical wave shape. There are 7 subspecies with different wave parameters.
The next most popular profile is Cascade. About 15% of metal roofing is made from it. It is formed by straight lines and has a clear geometry. Looks very interesting on roofs of complex shapes with a large number broken lines.
This profile is used more in regions with average wind and snow loads— the wave height is small, withstands medium loads.
Another 10% of the market is occupied by Andalusia metal tiles. It is more similar than the others to the classic semicircular tile. The profile is symmetrical, with pronounced differences.
The profile is designed so that the joint is located on the wall of the wave, it is practically invisible. It gives the impression of a monolithic roofing covering.
Sheet sizes and wave parameters of Andalusia metal tiles
If we talk about color, then depending on the type of coating, there are usually from 20 to 40 shades. Choose the one you like best. Service life or other characteristics do not depend on color, although there is an opinion that dark colors burn out faster. In fact, the rate of fading depends on the quality of the coating and pigment, but not on the color.
Calculation of the amount of metal tiles
For calculation required quantity sheets of material, you first need to decide on the type of profile and the manufacturer of the metal tile - you will need the exact dimensions of the material itself, and each profile has its own. Then you need to make accurate measurements of the slopes - length, height, if any, you need to measure all the protrusions or other decorative elements that will need to be sheathed with roofing material. If the roof complex shape, it’s better to draw its plan, put down all the dimensions and then sit down to do the calculations.
Number of rows
It is best to look for metal tiles not in stores or markets. It is advisable to contact the manufacturer directly. The point is not only the price - it may not differ very much, but the fact that many workshops/factories offer to cut sheets of the required sizes. The minimum sheet height is 0.7 m, the maximum is 8 m. That is, you can order the required number of sheets covering the roof slope from the ridge to the overhang (taking into account the eaves overhang).
This option is good because a metal tile roof will not have horizontal joints, which means there will be less chance of leaks. The second plus is a minimal amount of waste and a smaller amount of material itself (due to the absence of horizontal overlaps, several square meters are saved). Cons - difficulties with delivery, lifting long sheets up, awkward placement.
When using sheets standard sizes, the height of the roof slope is divided by the useful length of the sheet. The resulting figure is always rounded up. The useful length is obtained after subtracting the amount of horizontal overlap from the total length - from 100 to 200 mm. The flatter the slope, the greater the overlap of the sheets is necessary so that precipitation cannot get into the under-roof space. On roofs with a slope of up to 12°, one sheet overlaps the other by at least 200 mm; with a slope of 12° to 30°, the overlap is 150-200 mm, more than 30° - 100-150 mm. The specified amount of overlap is subtracted from the total length of the sheet, this will be the “useful length”.
An example of calculating the number of rows of metal tiles on a roof. Let the length of the slope be 4.5 m, the useful length of the sheet is 2.3 m. Divide 4.5 by 2.3, we get 1.95, round to the nearest whole number - we get 2 rows. IN in this case Only a small part of one sheet will go to waste, but there are times when more than half is cut off. This is very unprofitable, since this piece cannot be used anywhere else.
Number of sheets in a row
Take the length of the slope and divide it by the usable width of the sheet. This parameter is indicated in the technical specifications for metal tiles. Most often it is 110 cm (1.1 m). We round the resulting number up to obtain the number of sheets in the row.
An example of calculating metal tile sheets in a row. Let the length of the overhang be 8 m, the useful width of the sheet 1.1 m. When dividing, we get 7.27 pieces, but round up to a larger integer and we get 8 pieces in one row. Moreover, more than 2/3 of one sheet will go to waste.
Features of hip roofs
U hip roofs slopes have a triangular or trapezoidal shape. Here it is necessary to select the length of the sheet in order to minimize the amount of waste.
The height is selected so that no more than half goes to waste. It is quite difficult to do this manually, and there is still a significant error - there will be 20-25% more waste than when calculated using programs. They are usually available from sellers and manufacturers. It is better to provide them with an accurate calculation, and first measure the parameters of the roof at home (or call a measurer), and then try to select the dimensions yourself. Then you can compare the quantity required material, calculated by you and proposed.
Determining the number of additional elements
A metal tile roof requires a large number of different additional elements (additions), which form the ridge, the edge of the overhang, the sides of the slope, the passage of the pipe, the valley (the junction of two adjacent roof slopes). The more complex the shape of the roof, the greater the amount of additions required. When idle gable roof Ridge elements and caps, cornice and pediment strips will be needed. That's all.
What types of additional elements are there for metal roofing and why are they needed?
Despite the wide variety of extras, they are all considered the same. Take the length of the surface on which it needs to be mounted and divide by the useful length of the element. It is usually standard and is 1.9 m ( total length 2 m). The result obtained is rounded up.
What and how to attach it to
Fastening metal tiles with special screws with rubber washers. Just like the main material, they are made of galvanized steel, and the top is painted to match its coating. When installing, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in strictly perpendicular to the roof surface; tilting it is not allowed.
When fastening metal tiles, you need to monitor how tightly the fasteners adhere to the surface. You cannot tighten it too much, bending the metal, but you also cannot allow a loose fit - the connection will not be airtight.
Lathing for metal tiles
Metal tiles are a fairly rigid material, so a sparse sheathing is made underneath it, which consists of slats that are located along the roof overhang.
What material?
If the metal tile roof has simple design, an inch edged board (24-25 mm thick) with a width of 100 mm is used for the sheathing. For roofs of complex shapes or in regions with heavy snow loads, it is better to use a 32 mm thick board or 50-50 mm timber. The timber is also used when there is a large distance between the rafters (more than 80 cm).
Lathing step
Installation of metal tiles on the roof has one important feature. There is the strongest place in the profile - under the step of the wave in the hollow. This is where you need to tighten the self-tapping screw. The lathing must be made so that the middle of the plank is located just under this place. This is precisely what causes difficulties: the profiles have different sizes, therefore, each of them requires its own installation step for the sheathing strips. This value can be determined by measuring the existing material, but, usually, this parameter is indicated in the instructions for the metal tiles.
There are several important aspects of installing lathing under metal tiles. Please note that the first plank along the overhang is thicker than all the others - the height of the step for a given profile is added to the selected thickness of the plank. In addition, this strip is made wider than all the others - a drip edge will be attached to it, which covers the cut, protecting the wood from precipitation.
Also note that the second bar is not filled with a standard step, but with a shortened step, otherwise you will not get further into the wave. The step when installing the last plank near the ridge is also different - it is obtained after the fact, as well as the height of the plank. We remind you that there must be sufficiently large gaps in the area of the ridge - and the sheathing and roofing material should not be joined. This is necessary for normal attic ventilation.
Installation procedure and features
Before covering the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for working with the material:
- First of all, you need to take care of proper storage- in ventilated stacks, laid out with bars.
- When cutting, do not use an angle grinder (grinder), but cut only with a jigsaw or metal scissors. The grinder overheats the metal, which causes the zinc to evaporate, and the material will begin to rust at the cut points.
- Start laying sheets from the lower right corner (the installation diagram for metal tile sheets is in the photo below).
- When installing, wear soft, well-fitting shoes and step only on the lower part of the wave.
Next we will talk about the device. Metal roofing comes in two versions: with a cold or insulated attic. Depending on the type chosen, the order of work changes - during arrangement warm attic, two more layers are added - insulation and a vapor barrier membrane on the room side.
Cold metal roofing
This type of roof is suitable if attic space planned non-residential. Then all the insulation is concentrated in the ceiling, and the function of the roof is only to protect from precipitation and wind. The order of work is as follows:
Warm roof
When installing an insulated roof made of metal tiles in roofing pie more is being added thermal insulation material, which is attached between the rafters, and vapor barrier film, which is placed on the rafters from the attic side. Further, the entire installation process is similar.
How to attach sheets
When we cover a roof with metal tiles, we need to position the screws correctly. There are several rules that must be followed:
- Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower part of the wave, 2 cm below the step.
- The bottom row, along the overhang, is attached to each wave. Fasteners are also installed in places of horizontal and vertical joints.
- The waves between the horizontal joints are attached through one in a checkerboard pattern.
These rules are clearly shown in the diagram. IN graphic representation some things are easier to understand.
Wavy metal profiles imitating ceramic coating, quickly gained popularity. Before covering the roof with metal tiles, you need to decide on the number of sheets, as well as additional elements - ridge, valley, etc. In this article we will tell you how to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands.
Quantity of material
Metal tiles are only suitable for roofing structures with a slope of at least 14 0. When calculating the required quantity, you should consider:
- The lower part of the profile should hang from the roof by approximately 4 cm.
- Overlap of roofing material.
- Long sheets produce less waste, but are more difficult to cut. Optimal length metal profile– 4 – 5 m.
The scraps of material formed when covering one slope most often cannot be used on others.
Many manufacturers offer online calculators on their resources to calculate the amount of material. You can use a similar calculator in a construction market. To make the calculation as accurate as possible, it is recommended to make a roof diagram indicating the dimensions. This drawing will also allow you to determine the number of additional elements.
Pay attention! It is better to purchase an “extra” sheet, having previously agreed with point of sale option to return it. Sheet materials that do not have any damage to the coating are accepted for return.
Choice
The appearance of metal tiles matters. It provides an attractive roof. But the main thing is quality.
- Thickness – minimum 0.5 mm. The thicker the better.
- Coating. Of course, “Hooligan” is made in Sweden and has three layers of quartz coating, but it is quite difficult and expensive to purchase in Russia. But it should be taken into account that plastisol and polyester are yesterday’s days for metal tiles.
- The amount of zinc is not less than 275 g per sq.m.
- Sheet geometry – there should be no gaps in the stack. Uneven sheets will not be able to ensure the tightness of the coating.
Installation
Pay attention! Work should be carried out in calm, dry weather.
Before starting installation, you must prepare the following tools:
- Electric drill.
- Screwdriver.
- Hacksaw.
- Metal scissors.
- Electric saw.
The kit with sheets of metal tiles usually includes fastening elements - screws and washers. But it’s better to purchase an additional couple of dozen fasteners.
Mandatory use individual funds protection - gloves or mittens. Shoes should have soft, light-colored soles.
First, it is necessary to carry out work to bypass chimneys, roof windows and other roof structures. Lower valleys are also installed. Laying sealant will ensure reliable protection of the structure from moisture.
- Single-pitched roofs. It is more convenient to start covering the roof with metal tiles from left to right - in this case, each subsequent profile is slipped under the previous one. The first sheet is attached to the ridge with one self-tapping screw. Then the second one is laid - the lower edges should form a straight line. In order to be able to level the metal tiles, the self-tapping screw fastening the profiles should not grip the sheathing. When using short profiles, the movable structure can be made of 4 - 6 plates. Top sheet the first row is mounted with one self-tapping screw at the ridge. The lower ones are connected to the upper ones with one fastener that does not engage the sheathing structure. Only after all moving elements are aligned with the cornice and cornice strip are they finally fixed. The gable roof is covered in the same way.
- Hip roof. Work on installing metal tiles begins at the top. First, the top 1 - 2 sheets are attached. The next ones are slipped under them.
Self-tapping screws are screwed into sheets of metal tiles under the transverse fold in a checkerboard pattern.
After laying the metal tile profiles, additional elements are installed - ridges, valleys, snow retainers, etc. Materials with contrasting colors can be used.
Manufacturers usually include instructions with their products. Compliance with their requirements is one of the main conditions for guaranteeing the material and maintaining the performance qualities of the roof.
Debris and dirt generated during installation should be removed immediately with soft brushes and detergents. The edges of the cut sheet and scratches must be painted over.
Metal tiles are a fairly lightweight roofing material. But it is not recommended to use it as a second layer for an existing roof. Condensation and mold can form in the layers of such a “pie”. Aggression from a humid environment contaminated with fungi and rot will lead to the destruction of the protective layer.
Pay attention! The installation of walkways and stairs will make it easier to carry out maintenance activities on the roof structure - inspection, cleaning, repairs.
Saving on the quality of materials and violation of technology can significantly reduce the service life of the roof.
Video
The following video provides instructions for installing metal tiles from A to Z:
Installation of a metal roof is a category of work that requires strict adherence to certain recommendations. Improper installation can lead to unpleasant consequences. The cost of a metal tile roof averages 200-700 rubles/m2. This price is offered by companies engaged in professional styling coverings. However, you can cover the roof with metal tiles yourself.
A set of necessary tools
To work you will need the following:
- Jigsaw.
- Circular saw (with carbide teeth).
- Metal scissors (hand).
- Hacksaw with fine teeth.
- Nibblers (electric).
- Roulette.
- Marker.
- Long rail.
- Hammer.
- Screwdriver.
When installing a roof made of metal tiles, you cannot use abrasive wheels, that is, a grinder. The polymer coating and zinc are burned out high temperature. This leads to the formation of rust stains and active corrosion. Sawdust left on the surface can damage metal tiles. Accordingly, they must be removed after completion of work.
Basic rules
When working with metal tiles, it is recommended to use galvanized EPDM screws with a rubber gasket. They are screwed in using a drill with a reverse and speed regulator or a screwdriver. Scratches must be treated with the same paint that is applied to the metal tiles.
Preparatory stage
After the rafters are installed, it is necessary to measure the roof slope. This is done to ensure that there are no inconsistencies with the project. Measuring the diagonals will allow you to check the flatness and squareness of the roof. Minor defects can be hidden by additional elements at the ends. The slope of the roof when laying tiles should not exceed 14 degrees.
Determining the length of sheets
When calculating metal tiles for the roof, it is necessary to take into account the size of the slope. The required length is the distance between the ridge and the cornice. To overhang the sheets, add 4 cm to it. If the length of the slope exceeds 7 m, then the sheets are divided into two parts or more. Since the roof is covered with metal tiles with an overlap of 150 mm, this distance also needs to be taken into account. When fixing long pieces, it is possible to reduce the number of joints. However, in this case the process itself will become significantly more complicated.
General requirements
According to GOST, metal tiles should be stored in rooms without heating. In this case, it is necessary to protect the material from adverse climatic conditions. This means straight sun rays and rain. Factory packaged profiles are laid on flat areas. Bars are used as a stand. The recommended thickness is 20 cm, step is 50 cm. If the storage period has already exceeded a month, then it is best to unpack the sheets of metal tiles and put them in stacks. The recommended height is up to 70 cm. The sheets are transferred using a slats.
Ventilation, heat and vapor barrier: main nuances
Not everyone knows how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles. Certain mistakes during arrangement lead to very unpleasant consequences. In order to avoid them, you need to know some of the features of such a roof. Condensation may appear on the inner surface of the sheets. This occurs due to daily temperature fluctuations. In some cases, vapor appears rising from the bottom of the structure. This occurs as a result of increased humidity in the under-roof space. Under the influence of the above factors, the insulation becomes wet. As a result, a decrease in its thermal parameters is observed. The following may also happen:
- In some cases, the roof freezes.
- Rotting processes begin in the sheathing and wooden rafters.
- Mold appears.
- The interior of the building may be damaged.
Prevention of undesirable consequences
To avoid unpleasant consequences, you need to do the following:
- Organize natural ventilation of the under-roof space.
- Take care of the vapor barrier (this will protect the insulation from moisture rising from the room).
- A waterproofing membrane or film must be used to prevent the effects of condensation.
- It is necessary to take care of a thick layer of insulation.
Requirements for laying materials
Rolled waterproofing should be rolled onto the insulation between the eaves and the ridge in a horizontal plane. Recommended overlap - 15 cm. Indicator color stripe should be turned outward. The film is laid with a sag of 2 cm. This is done to provide a gap for the insulation. If these requirements are violated, the film will lose its protective properties. To create a thermal insulation layer, the insulation is overlapped. To ensure tightness, its pieces must be connected. It is best to use duct tape.
It is necessary to make a special gap. The recommended height is 4 cm. This will separate the metal tiles from the waterproofing. This will ensure natural ventilation. The gap is created using This will ensure air circulation between the ridge and the eaves. Lining for overhangs also requires designing gaps - up to 5 cm. Care must be taken to clear special holes in the ridge seal.
Features of the supporting frame
Since the roof is covered with metal tiles on lathing, you need to know a number of nuances regarding its construction. It is created using boards in combination with bars. The cross section of the latter is 5x5. First of all, the falling bars along waterproofing film nailed to the rafters from the ridge to the eaves. Boards must be fastened with strict adherence to the recommended distances. The sheathing pitch also needs to be taken into account. In some areas a solid frame is required. This applies in particular to the area near chimneys, skylights and in the valleys.
Features of continuous lathing
To arrange it, two additional boards are nailed to the sides of the ridge strip. It is also necessary to make the end elements higher than the ordinary sheathing. The recommended height is equal to the size of the metal tile profile. The lower valleys must be secured to a continuous sheathing at the points of internal joints. In this case, it is best to use self-tapping screws. It is required to overlap the joints of the planks. It is determined according to the slope of the roof. Then the covering sheets are laid, which are cut in advance. After this, it is necessary to lay the upper valley strip.
Working with additional elements
Costs special attention pay attention to the junction points. These points are very vulnerable. Metal tiles must provide a tight connection to pipe outlets and walls. For this purpose, an internal apron is provided on the roof slope. Its basis is the lower abutment strips. They are applied to the walls of the pipe. Next, mark the top edge of the bar. The groove makes its way along the intended line. A grinder is used for this. The groove must be washed and cleaned of dust. The lower abutment strip should be trimmed in accordance with the calculations. It is installed and secured using self-tapping screws.
Installation of the apron can be done in a similar sequence. It is necessary to provide overlaps of 15 cm. They will eliminate possible leaks. In the strip inserted into the groove, it is necessary to seal the edge. In order to direct the water in the right direction (meaning a valley or cornice), a “tie” is inserted under the lower part of the apron. It's about about a flat sheet with rounded edges (sides). They are bent using pliers and a hammer. Then the roof is covered with metal tiles along the internal apron and “tie”.
Once the installation of materials near the chimney is completed, you can proceed to the next stage. This is the production and installation of a decorative external apron. Installation is carried out similarly to the internal one. However, in this case, the upper edge is attached to the wall, and is not inserted into the groove. Installation of gutters for downspouts involves installing holders on the bottom board of the sheathing. Accordingly, if snow melts, the load will be reduced. The gutter is inserted and secured in the holders. In this case, the cornice strip must be connected to the sheathing. It is necessary that its lower edge overlaps the end of the gutter. The waterproofing membrane must be placed on top of the eaves film. Thus, the condensate will flow into the gutter.
Work algorithm
Roofing with metal tiles starts from the end. The first sheet is secured with a self-tapping screw near the ridge. The offset relative to the cornice is 4 cm. Since the roof is covered with metal tiles various specialists V different directions, then it is necessary to talk about the features of the overlap. When laid from right to left, the second sheet overlaps the first on top. If the installation is done in the reverse order, then the overlap is done in reverse. The sheets themselves are attached using self-tapping screws. They should be located in the upper section of the overlap. In this case, the sheets are not screwed to the sheathing. They must rotate relative to the axis of the screw with which the first sheet was secured near the roof ridge. Installation of the third element is carried out in a similar way.
All connected sheets must be aligned strictly parallel to the cornice. If lengthwise joining is required, the order of work changes. All sheets (1-4) must be connected and aligned with the end of the roof. Fixation is carried out in a wave. The screws are screwed in in a checkerboard pattern. The sheets are fixed through a wave. On square meter coating requires up to 8 screws.
Installing additional items
Since the roof is covered with metal tiles using a certain technology, you need to know that the ends must be secured with appropriate strips. They can be trimmed if necessary. Fastening is also carried out using self-tapping screws. The shaped seal can be placed on the ridge after the ventilation hole is freed. Then a flat or round bar is attached to it through the wave. The installation should be carried out with the following overlap - 10 cm. A vertical protective grille should be mounted on the roof. In the future, this will make it possible to move around the structure. The fencing grid is attached using galvanized screws. They must be screwed into the support beam through the gasket and the covering sheet at the places where the waves deflect. Then the support is securely fixed. Next, a fence is attached to it. After this, the joints are thoroughly sealed.
In conclusion
Laying metal tiles in accordance with all rules will ensure their long service life. All materials and tools must be prepared in advance. Accurate calculations will help to avoid inconsistencies. To protect the roof, ventilation, heat and vapor insulation are necessary. The sheathing must be installed before laying the sheets. When installing it, it is necessary to use boards and timber of certain sizes. The internal apron is installed where the chimneys exit to the roof. The sheets are fixed in accordance with a certain order. Installing a roof made of metal tiles (a photo of the structure can be seen in the article) is, in general, a simple task. In order for the structure to serve for a long time, it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations.
Metal roofing is multilayer structure. Each such layer plays a specific role in the entire system. That is why, before starting the installation of the roof, it is necessary to understand how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles.
Important points
The entire complex of work should be carried out very carefully. This is especially true for those operations that cannot be double-checked without dismantling the roof. So, for example, thermal insulation must be laid flat, the joints between individual sheets must be carefully glued, and the junctions of the insulator with wall structure no complaints.
The negative results of improperly carried out roof installation work may not appear immediately. It often happens that the consequences of poor-quality installation appear too late and then partial or complete renovation roofs.
For example, if the vapor barrier is not properly organized, condensation will begin to accumulate under the roof. He lowers thermal resistance thermal insulation and promotes the development of fungus and rotting of the rafter structure.
Required Tools
When installing metal tiles on gable roof non-abrasive should be used cutting tools- a hacksaw for metal, an electric drill, etc. Despite the fact that sheets of metal tiles have the maximum convenient sizes, a situation always arises that requires cutting sheets to width or creating technological cuts in different places roofs.
Therefore, before starting roof installation work, you should buy an electric saw with carbide teeth or another tool that will allow you to easily cut metal.
In this case, the use of a grinding machine (grinder) should be excluded. The fact is that when heated, the protective layer of the metal tile will be destroyed. As a result, the steel sheets will lose their anti-corrosion properties.
The sheets of metal tiles are secured using special roofing screws. To tighten them, use a screwdriver or electric drill with a speed controller.
Laying hydro- and vapor barrier
The roofing material is laid out on the rafters horizontally from bottom to top. The film strips are laid with an overlap of 15 cm. In this case, the panels must be sufficiently stretched and secured at the edges with a stapler. The film is also secured with clamping strips along the rafters. The joints are taped with special tape.
The vapor barrier is laid with inside timber, and waterproofing - from the outside. Diffusion membranes are placed directly on the thermal insulation, leaving no ventilation gap between the insulation and the waterproofing (more details: " "). If non-membrane insulation is used, a ventilation gap of 3-5 cm is arranged above the insulation.
Installation of sheathing
The roof is covered with metal tiles on a pre-prepared base. For such a frame, boards with a section of 100 * 25 mm are used. In this case, the first cornice board on which it will be attached is always taken 15 mm thicker. The distance between the sheathing boards is selected according to the transverse pitch of the metal tile profile. Standard values are 25, 40 or 45 cm. In this case, the distance between the cornice board and the one next to it should be 5 cm less than the selected step.
For tips on choosing metal tiles, watch the video:
Which metal tile to cover the roof with?
One of the main issues in creating a roof is the choice of roofing material. On domestic market A huge selection of products in this segment is available. They all differ in profile, base thickness and polymer coating. Naturally, all this directly affects the price.
The thickness of the tiles varies from 0.4 to 0.5 mm. The thicker the tile, the heavier it is. But at the same time, this material is more durable.
The second aspect is the polymer used to coat steel sheet. Buyers have access to polymers such as polyester, plastisol and pural. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, for a more detailed understanding of this issue, you can refer to other articles on our site, which specifically cover the problem of choosing metal tiles.
How to cover a house with metal tiles
Before you organize roof covering made of metal tiles, needs to be fixed cornice strips to the very last board of the frame. In this case, an overlap of 10 cm is made.
If the roof is gable, then it is convenient to start installing the tiles from the lower left corner. It's important to understand. The sheets are laid overlapping each other. If it is decided to install metal tiles from right to left, then each next sheet placed under the previous one. If the roof is hipped, then the tiles begin to be laid from the highest point, and installation is carried out simultaneously in both directions.
Additional and additional elements
- The end strip is fixed from the bottom up along the gables, while covering the end edges of the tiles. The strips are attached to the last wave of sheets and to the sheathing frame.
- The ridge strip is installed only when all the covering sheets have already been installed, and end strips fixed.
- On the valley it is necessary to organize a continuous flooring of boards. They attach it to him smooth sheet metal 125 cm wide. In this case, the sheet is bent in the middle. The edges of the metal are bent up 1.5 cm. This slab is then secured to the deck. After the final installation of the metal tiles, the valley strips are fixed with screws at the joints of the sheets from the bottom up.
- To prevent snow from falling from the roof, important places(entrance doors, windows, etc.) install corner snow detainers. Typically this design consists of a corner and a strip to stop the snow. performed at a distance of 35 cm from the cornice. The corner is attached to the tile profile with long screws to wooden frame. The bottom of the locking strip is attached to the tile at the top of every second wave. It is worth noting that in this case everything is fastened with self-tapping screws for metal tiles.
- In order to seal the junction of the roof slopes with the walls, seam strips are used. They are fixed at the top point of the tile wave and to the adjacent wall. The joints are additionally sealed with silicone sealant.
- Installation drainage system produced in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Even before the installation of the roofing sheets begins, it is necessary to attach brackets to the frame boards that will secure the gutter.
We hope this material has helped you a little to understand how to organize roofing with metal tiles.