Very often situations arise when it is necessary to carry out certain electrical work in a house or apartment. Of these, the most common is the connection between a switch and a light bulb. As a rule, a single-key switch with the simplest circuit is used for this. Before performing any type of work related to electricity, it is imperative to disconnect the electrical network. Only after this can you begin preparatory work.
Preparing to connect electrical appliances
Before starting work, you need to select the most suitable switch and distribution box. Next, you need to stock up on connecting wires and PVC electrical tape.
At the very beginning, a distribution box is installed, where all the wires are collected and connected into the desired circuit. Typically, the connection is made using hidden wiring.
The next step will be installation under the switch. At the same time, a circuit breaker is installed in the power panel, protecting the electrical circuit from short circuits.
The connection of all electrical devices is carried out with a three-core universal wire, the cross-section of which is at least 1.5 mm. As a rule, this is the VVGngP 3x1.5 brand with solid copper core and double insulation. This wire connects the socket box and the distribution box with a reserve for subsequent cutting. After this, wires connect the lamp and the junction box to the circuit breaker.
Connection diagram of a single-key switch to a light bulb
First of all, power must be supplied to the circuit breaker. After this, the connection diagram for the switch and light bulb is carried out in stages. The wires in the cable used are usually blue and black, as well as yellow with a green stripe on it. The blue wire is used for zero, the yellow wire is for grounding, and the black wire is for phase. The colors of the wires for all connections must be observed in a certain order. The stripped wires are inserted into the contact terminals and clamped with special screws. All other nodes are connected in the same way.
When connecting the lamp, preparation is also carried out with wire. In this case, grounding is not used, but only the neutral and phase wires are used. After preparation, the wires are connected directly to the socket and to the switch. After this, the diagram takes on a finished form.
To check the functionality of the circuit, you need to screw a light bulb into the socket. Voltage is supplied to the circuit breaker, after which it turns on. Make sure all connections are correct beforehand. After pressing the switch button, the light should light up, which means that the entire circuit is completed correctly.
Electrical wiring of any room, be it a huge country house or a small outbuilding (basement, garage, country house), includes three main elements - a switch, a socket and a light bulb. While they remain relevant always and everywhere. During repairs, construction or redevelopment, you will definitely encounter them. Therefore, basic knowledge of electrical engineering will not be superfluous - what is the connection diagram for a switch and socket, how does it work and what materials and tools will be required for its installation?
Below are detailed step-by-step instructions, with the guidance of which even a not very experienced electrician will be able to install sockets and switches with his own hands.
What is needed to switch the circuit?
Electrical wiring can be open or hidden. In this article we will consider the connection of sockets and switches made according to the second option, when all electrical switching is hidden under a layer of plaster. Hidden design is the most common type of electrical wiring; open wiring is usually used as a temporary option.
Preparing the walls
Before connecting a socket and switch in the room, you need to prepare holes in the wall for their installation and grooves in which the wires will be laid. There should be three holes in total - for the junction box and for the connected switching devices.
It’s better to draw an approximate drawing on a piece of paper in advance, where exactly you plan to connect the switch and socket, and what route the wires will take to these places.
The hole for the distribution box is made, as a rule, under the ceiling, 10-15 cm lower. Holes for switching devices are made at the site of their planned installation. It is better to install the socket at a distance of 30 cm from the clean floor, where household appliances will be connected to it. It is advisable to install the switch at the entrance to the room at the level of an adult’s lowered hand - about 90 cm from the clean floor. These works are performed with an electric drill with a special bit for brick or concrete, a hammer drill with a Pobedit drill, an impact drill or an angle grinder.
When installing gates, consider several important rules:
- They can only be horizontal or vertical; no tilting is allowed.
- The entire path of the groove from the distribution box to the installation sites of the socket and switch must pass with a minimum number of turns.
- Vertical grooves cannot be brought closer to window and door openings less than 10 cm, and to gas pipes - less than 40 cm.
To install the grooves, you can use a hammer and chisel, a hammer drill, a grinder or a special tool - a wall cutter.
When all the holes and grooves are ready, thoroughly clean them of dust using a vacuum cleaner.
Installation elements and tools
To perform the electrical part of the work you will need the following materials and tools:
- distribution (socket) box, in which all wires are connected;
- two plastic or polypropylene mounting boxes (socket boxes), they are needed in order to securely fasten the switching devices in the wall openings;
- indoor socket;
- indoor switch with one key;
- lighting fixture;
- set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips);
- knife or stripper for removing insulation from conductors;
- pliers with insulated handles;
- clamps or insulating tape;
- indicator screwdriver.
To switch the entire electrical circuit, you will also need a two-core wire. Nowadays, electrical goods stores offer a huge assortment of wires and cables, so immediately buy one so that each core has its own colored insulation, for example, red and blue. This will make it easier to switch the circuit; you won’t have to look for phase and zero with instruments, you’ll just need to connect wires of the same color.
In order to fix the wires laid in the grooves, you will also need alabaster and a spatula.
Connection diagram
The electrical circuit represents a parallel connection to the power source of a lighting fixture with a light bulb, a switch and a socket.
Preparatory work
Before starting any electrical work, secure your work area. Turn off the opening machine for the apartment. It’s good if it is already at the entrance to the apartment, that is, you will be sure that by turning it off, no one will be able to turn the machine back on. If the automatic device is located on the landing in a common panel, turn off the automatic device in your apartment and hang a “Do not turn on!” sign. or put someone in control. You can't joke with electricity!
After turning off the machine, you need to once again make sure that there is no voltage, now using an indicator screwdriver. First, check its working condition in an area that is known to be energized, for example, at the entrance to the machine. The indicator lights up after touching the phase, which means it is in good condition. Now touch the indicator screwdriver to the cores of the power wire, which is brought into the apartment from the machine; there should be no glow. This means that the tension has been relieved and work can begin.
Lay the wires in the grooves made, leading them to the wall holes. At the same time, leave the ends of 10-15 cm for cutting the cores, do not regret it, it is better to make a slightly larger reserve than to suffer later when connecting and connecting. Install a distribution box and socket boxes in the holes; use plaster or alabaster to securely fix them.
Electrical installation work
Place a two-wire cable from the mains supply (phase and neutral) into the junction box. Three wires must be laid from the box: one to the switch, the second to the lamp, the third to the outlet.
For a wire whose cores have different insulation colors, red indicates phase, blue indicates zero.
The switch has an input and output contact; a phase conductor is connected to the input. Connect the second core to the output contact of the switch.
A two-wire wire must also be laid to the lamp. The lamp socket has two contacts. The central spring contact (phase) is used to directly supply voltage to the light bulb. The side contact in the socket is zero, the lamp will come into contact with it after screwing in with its base.
Another two-wire wire is laid from the junction box to the outlet. This switching device has a contact part consisting of two terminals, to which phase and zero are connected.
The connection diagram for the switch, lamp and socket in the distribution box is as follows:
- Connect the neutral conductor from the supply wire with the neutral conductors going to the lamp and socket.
- Connect the phase conductor from the supply wire with the phase conductors going to the switch and socket.
- Connect the remaining core from the output contact of the switch to the phase core of the lamp.
All connections must be made as firmly as possible to ensure reliable contact. This can be done the old fashioned way - by twisting, which it is also advisable to solder on top. There are also more modern devices: special blocks (in which the wire is clamped under a screw) or PPE (connecting insulating clamps).
For more information about connecting wires in a junction box, watch this video:
Checking the circuit and completing the work
Move all the twists in different directions so that they do not touch each other and check the operation of the assembled circuit. Turn on the input circuit breaker for the apartment, thereby supplying voltage from the power source to the newly mounted distribution box. The switch is in the “off” position, the lamp does not light, which means everything is correct, the phase is open. Now press the switch key to the “on” position, the electrical circuit is closed and voltage is supplied through it from the power source to the lamp, the light bulb lights up. There will be constant voltage at the outlet; you can check its operation by connecting any electrical appliance. Plug the hair dryer, radio or electric kettle into the outlet and check its operation.
Now turn off the input circuit breaker again and securely insulate the twisted areas with electrical tape; you can also put PVC pipes on top. Carefully place all the connected wires in the box so that it can then be closed with a lid.
All that remains is to securely place the switch and socket in the socket boxes, secure them, and put protective covers on top. The distribution box is also covered with a lid; during any repair work, never hide it under wallpaper or plaster. Remember, the distribution box should always be accessible, no matter how much it spoils the overall appearance of your room.
Very important! Before connecting the switch, make sure that you are connecting the phase conductor to its input contact, and do not confuse it with the neutral conductor. The switching device should only operate on phase break. Otherwise, there will always be voltage present in the lamp socket, even when the switch is in the off position. And this creates the danger of getting under voltage when simply replacing a burnt out light bulb.
Also keep in mind that if the lighting fixture and socket are structurally grounded, then their electrical circuit will require a three-core wire. The same wire of three cores should also come to the junction box from the power source. Typically, the grounding conductor is indicated in green or yellow; in the same way, in the box you will need to connect three protective grounding conductors into one twist - from the power source, socket and lamp.
Other scheme options
In a similar way, you can connect a socket, a two-key switch and two groups of lighting fixtures from one power source. In this case, the distribution box will receive two wires from two output contacts of the switch and two phase conductors from the lamps. The same as in the example described above, only there will be one more twist in the box.
If you need to install a three-key switch and three groups of lamps, then three wires from the three output contacts of the switch and three phase conductors from the lighting devices will arrive in the distribution box. There will be 5 twists in total in the box:
- Zero supply network with zero wires of the socket and lamp.
- Power supply phase with phase conductors of socket and switch.
- And three twists of phase wires extending from each switch key and group of lamps.
In the case of protective grounding, another twist will be added. Sometimes it can be quite problematic to arrange twisted wires in a junction box. Now on the electrical goods market you can select options specifically designed to accommodate a large number of wires and cables.
This is how you can easily connect a socket and a switch from one junction box. The main thing is to try to understand this very simple scheme. And then all further electrical circuits will be clear to you. As a result, you will get quite a decent cost savings on calling a professional electrician.
Before starting a major renovation or construction of a room, it is important to think in advance about the placement of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches. If there are no problems with this issue, then you need to figure out how to connect all the wires and devices according to the diagram so that everything works correctly.
But before starting work related to electricity, you need to worry about safety precautions. Before installation, you need to de-energize the room being repaired, to do this, move the machine in the distribution panel to the lower position. This is necessary so that no one gets electrocuted.
Features of installation work
Installation and connection of electrical devices such as sockets, switches or light sources is carried out only if the room being repaired is completely de-energized. At the same time there are some nuances carrying out such work.
- Electrical wiring according to the diagram should only be laid in straight lines, both vertically and horizontally.
- If the room is made of wood, then the wires are laid on the walls. In this case, there should be no direct contact between the electrical wiring and the surface of the walls. Installation takes place on special insulators that do not conduct current.
- In buildings made of stone or concrete, electrical wires are hidden in grooves under a layer of plaster.
If we consider electrical wires, they consist of a current-carrying core covered with insulation. There may be several such conductors in an electrical wire. In most cases, two and three-wire wiring is used. In this case, one core always creates a continuous circuit on which there is no voltage. This wire is neutral. The remaining cores are phase or working.
What might you need to connect?
To quickly and easily connect the switch from the socket to the light bulb, according to the diagram, you may need certain tools and supplies.
- Electric circuit breaking device.
- Electrical wires corresponding to the electrical wiring installed throughout the building are copper or aluminum.
- A distribution box in which the wires are connected. Thanks to the boxes, all connections can be made efficiently, which reduces the risk of short circuits during the operation of electrical appliances.
- Screwdriver indicator with LED. Such a device is useful for determining the phase of the electrical network.
- Side cutters for cutting wires into pieces and connecting wires using twists.
- Insulating tape for insulating twists.
- Fastening elements for laying wiring in wooden buildings. Special clamps will allow you to securely secure the corrugation to a wooden wall. But the simplest and cheapest fastening is considered to be a metal strip from a tin can with a nail for fixation.
- Socket boxes designed for high-quality installation of sockets or switches. Structurally, such a product resembles a glass made of a polymer material that does not conduct electric current.
And finally you will need a hammer drill. It is necessary to open the plaster or, more simply, to groove the walls. If the switch is installed in a new location, you will need a cutter to drill a hole for the socket box. Thanks to this core drill, creating a socket for installing a socket or switch will not be difficult.
Selecting a switch for connecting a light bulb
Structurally, any switch consists of a housing in which the current-receiving part of the device and an electrical circuit breaker are located. The most common is considered rocker switch. At the same time, for convenience, several keys are often installed in one housing. Today, all switches can be divided into the following types:
- key switch design;
- pass-through switch;
- touch device;
- pulse circuit breakers.
I would like to note that it doesn’t make much sense to figure out how to connect each device separately, since they all have a common circuit used when installing a single-key switch to a light bulb from an outlet. Therefore, the design of such a device will be considered in more detail.
Block of such devices It is equipped with several contacts to connect wires and a key to break the electrical circuit. However, most devices are equipped with a special fastening element. Usually these are two metal plates, the expansion of which is adjusted using ordinary screws.
Connection diagram for switch from socket
Almost all switches can be connected according to a generalized circuit to a light source - an electric light bulb. Moreover, regardless of the design of the electrical circuit breaker, its connection always occurs in the open phase, which is taken from the outlet. That is the switch breaks the working conductor of the electrical wiring.
- The distribution box contains wires from a socket powered from the general electrical network, wires laid from the switch and wiring from the light bulb socket, where they will be connected to the alternating current network.
- One wire coming from the cartridge must be connected to the zero core, and the free end with wiring laid to the switch.
- The second wire is connected to the socket phase. Thanks to this, the light bulb together with the socket is connected to the phase through an electrical breaker.
When the switch is in the on position according to the diagram, the load will be supplied to the light bulb socket, and when the device is turned off, the supply of electricity is interrupted.
Marking locations for installation of electrical devices
Before you start connecting, you must perform markup the location of the switch, which is best installed closer to the outlet, and electrical wiring on the walls and ceiling where the lighting fixture will be mounted. Most often, the switch is fixed near the entrance door to the room. If this is a walk-through room, then the switch is installed directly next to the doorway.
After marking the location for installing the switch a straight line is drawn up to the ceiling. A distribution box must be installed at this location. The center of the room is determined on the ceiling surface. The light bulb will be connected at the marked location. A straight line is drawn from the cartridge to the wall. After this, the length of the drawn lines is measured, taking into account the distance from the outlet, and the wires are cut into pieces with a margin.
How to connect a switch from an outlet
Installation work begins with the direct installation of an electrical circuit breaker in the vicinity of the outlet. If he mounted on a wooden wall, then an insulating plate made of plastic or other non-conductive material is installed; if the building is made of stone, then the switch is mounted in a socket box. But since most buildings are brick or concrete, all work is carried out in accordance with a specific plan.
- The distribution box is installed. Next, you can connect the wire to the switch, which is hidden in the grooves.
- A special block with two current-receiving contacts is installed on the ceiling surface. In the future, a cartridge with wires will be connected to the block.
- The wire running along the ceiling is laid in grooves to the wall where the switch is located and goes into the junction box.
- Another piece of wiring goes from the box directly to the switch.
- A socket along with an electric light bulb is connected to the block on the ceiling. In most cases, these pads have a screw connector. The ends of the bare wires are inserted into the terminal blocks and secured with a screw.
- Next, all ends of the wiring in the junction box are twisted according to the diagram. To make the twist reliable, it is clamped with pliers.
- The wiring connections are insulated with special electrical tape.
- The electricity supply is turned off and the ends coming from the outlet are revealed.
- The power supply is restored and the phase wire in the socket is detected. To do this, the indicator touches the wires one by one and when it hits a phase, the LED on the screwdriver lights up.
- The socket phase is marked in any convenient way, and the room is de-energized again.
- All wires, both those coming from the switch and the light bulb, and those laid from the socket, are put into the wiring distribution box.
- One core from the light bulb socket must be connected to the neutral wire, and the second is connected to either end of the wiring coming from the switch. The free core from the switch is connected with the phase coming from the socket.
All twists are carefully crimped with pliers and are insulated with insulating tape. Electricity is supplied and the connection is checked. If the light source lights up, then all the boxes are closed and the grooves are sealed. Otherwise, you need to look for bad contact in the twists.
Often, when installing electrical lighting in buildings, it is necessary to ensure that the lamps in one of the rooms are turned on from two switches. This is usually how the wiring on flights of stairs is arranged. Switches of this type are called pass-through switches and are the most difficult to install. But in an ordinary apartment there is no need for such schemes.
The most used in residential areas is the option in which several lamps are turned on simultaneously from one switch. This could be spot lighting with three or more lamps, or possibly several LED strips. And here, in the absence of knowledge of such installation, difficulties arise, although there are no particular difficulties in this.
It is necessary to consider several possible consumer connection schemes in order to understand the essence of such work. In addition, double switches have their own connection characteristics.
Regular switch for one lamp
You should start with the simplest option, and therefore it makes sense to start with the basics. When installing the switch, you need to remember that it is placed on the break of the phase wire, therefore, the zero will go directly to the light source. When setting the switch to zero, the contacts of the device can quickly burn out. Surely many have noticed that if there is poor contact in the socket, the zero most often burns out. This happens due to the greater load when current passes at the zero contact.
Another reason for the breaker to break the phase wire is the ability to quickly remove voltage from the consumer in the event of an emergency situation, while a zero break will not provide de-energization, but will only disconnect the circuit.
The main rule is that work on installing electrical wiring, switches and lamps is carried out strictly with the voltage completely removed. If it is impossible to determine the phase wire by color, a short-term supply of electricity is allowed for the purpose of “ringing”. In this case, you must first make sure that there are no short circuits in the exposed wires.
Connecting two lamps to one switch
How to connect two light bulbs to one switch can be understood using the same installation diagram; there are practically no differences. The neutral wire goes directly from the junction box in series through all light sources. The phase passing through the switch must be connected to the second contacts of the lamps. This connection is called parallel.
Be sure to ensure that the connecting contacts of the wires are securely fastened. If possible, it is advisable to use terminal blocks, where the connection is made using screws, or WAGO type blocks, where the wire is clamped with a spring.
You also need to know that when twisting wires, connecting copper to aluminum is not allowed, since this threatens oxidation and, as a result, weakening and heating of the contact.
This ensures the connection of two or more light sources to one switch. Each of them has a load limit marking. It should be taken into account when calculating the total power of connected lamps (the connection diagram for two or more lamps is shown above).
Two-gang switch
The use of a two-key switch is possible in rooms with separate lighting when connecting a multi-light chandelier or a separate bathroom, where it is located between the doors to the bathroom and toilet. Naturally, it makes no sense to install two conventional switches side by side if it is possible to place a more compact device.
Separate room lighting
Such lighting is most often used in office spaces, where there is more natural light near the window, but at the same time, the working day in winter is short. The connection diagram in this case is not complicated, but requires certain knowledge.
The switch is also installed in the phase wire break. Such devices have one voltage input and two voltage output contacts. The phases that pass through the switch are distributed among the luminaires depending on the project or the wishes of the owner.
Zero is common to all lighting fixtures in the room. Then, when one of the keys is turned on, power will be supplied only to the devices connected to this phase, while the rest will not work. Lighting devices in a separate bathroom are also connected according to a similar scheme.
Multi-arm chandelier
When connecting a multi-arm chandelier via a two-key switch, a three-core wire is required. One of the cores is shortened so that it can be inserted into the distribution box (usually above the switch), and the other two reach the switching device itself.
As in the previous case, a phase is supplied to the breaker, and the outgoing wires are fixed in the terminal blocks of the switch. The chandelier itself includes a lead of three wires, one of which is neutral, and the other two, phase, are connected (in the example of a five-arm) to two and three light sources, respectively. The direct zero from the distribution box goes to the zero contact, and the wires coming out of the switch are connected to the phase wires from the chandelier.
The result is a connection in which, if you act one by one, pressing one of the device keys turns on only two light bulbs, and pressing the other turns on three, but if stronger lighting is needed, you can turn on both keys.
Thus, with the help of such a breaker, three options for illumination intensity are produced, which ensures a variety of illumination.
There are also switches on sale that have three keys. Their installation diagram is a little more complicated, but similar to those given above. With their help, you can implement more lighting options.
Connection from an outlet
But there are times when it is necessary to connect an additional lamp with a separate switch. Then it is possible to install wiring from an existing outlet. The choice of method of management (external or internal) does not make sense to analyze now; this is not relevant to this topic. It is more logical to consider connection options. When installing a single-key switch, no difficulties arise; you only need a two-wire wire and the switching device itself.
If the voltage breaker is installed above the socket, then the neutral and phase wires are removed from it. The phase is interrupted inside the switch, while the zero remains intact. The rest of the lighting equipment connected to the circuit is powered according to the above circuits.
With this, you will need three wire cores (at the output - zero, phase, phase), and if the breaker has three keys, then you need 4 wires (zero and 3 phases).
Connecting lamps with converter
Nowadays, when lighting rooms with point consumers, it is possible to connect them either to a network with a voltage of 220 V or through a 12 V converter. Such devices also provide a switch-on delay of a couple of seconds, after which they smoothly supply the load to the devices.
This scheme is ideally suited provided that incandescent or halogen lamps are installed as consumers, since the removal of voltage surges helps to increase the service life of lighting devices.
If such a converter is used, the switch is mounted in the circuit before it, and there are reasons for this.
Firstly, the reduced voltage has a higher current strength, while breakers are not designed for this. Simply put, the switch contacts will either burn out or “stick.” And secondly, as already mentioned, the converter has a voltage supply delay, which ensures smooth ignition of the lamp. And if you include the breaker in the circuit after it, then there is no need to talk about any soft start. Electricity will flow in a sharp jump immediately after pressing the key. This means that the converter will be of no more use than a conventional transformer.
When installing a two-key switch, it is necessary to add a second converter, which will be powered from the second line. In this case, as in previous connection diagrams, the neutral wire will be common.
Also, do not forget that all such devices have their own limitation on the power of connected consumers and you should not get carried away with the number of lamps during such an installation.
What's the end result?
If you thoughtfully approach the issue of connection, then such work will not pose any special difficulties. The main thing is not to neglect safety issues when carrying out electrical installation work. It must be remembered that all work is carried out only with the voltage turned off, because 220 volts is a dangerous current, the shock of which can lead to death or serious damage to the body.
If there is even the slightest doubt that self-installation is possible, it is better to seek help from a specialist. After all, if the quality of the connections is poor, the wiring may catch fire and, as a result, a fire in the house or apartment. Therefore, as they say, “measure twice, cut once.”
You don't need to be a genius to connect a light bulb and switch. Whether it’s a light bulb and a switch in your apartment or a so-called “carrying” for the garage, the only difference is that for “carrying” you don’t need to lay wiring along the walls and ceiling and it is connected with a plug into an outlet.
Marking
It is not for nothing that popular wisdom says that you need to cut only when you have measured 7 times. Therefore, treat the markings with due attention; it is at this moment that you are mentally doing the work, which then only remains to be implemented.
We make notes in the places where the light bulb and switch will be. It should be noted that the switch is usually placed near the door at a height of 80-90 cm from the floor, that is, at the height of a freely lowered arm. But you shouldn’t take everything literally, if all the switches in your corridor are set to a height of 1.7 meters, then yours at 0.8 will clearly fall out of the overall picture. Make sure that when you open the door, it does not obscure the switch; it will not be convenient to use. Also mark the routes for future wiring. The wiring should go from the switch to the distribution box (or socket, if you will power the circuit from it) and from the light bulb to the same distribution box (socket). When marking, follow these important rules: When placing wiring near other walls and ceilings, make a distance of about 20 centimeters from them. Make sure that the wires are placed only horizontally and vertically, so that they bend at right angles. Keep in mind that grooves in load-bearing walls must be of minimal depth and size. You should make sure that there is no old wiring in it, read.
Scoring (if necessary)
Next comes the unpleasant process of gating. To prevent your interior from being spoiled in the future by wires laid on top of the wallpaper, they can be hidden in the walls by first making special recesses in the latter - grooves. I will not go deeper into this topic, because... In the article I want to focus specifically on the electrical part of the issue. I will only note that in your case the walls can be made of different materials (concrete or plasterboard), and the switch can be internal, which must be recessed into the wall, or overhead. All this will directly affect the volume and method of gating. Without the proper experience and tools, it is better to lay the cable over the walls, securing it with plastic brackets.
Wiring installation
Now we need a two-core wire, which we lay in pre-made grooves. The easiest way to fix them there would be with a diluted alabaster solution.
It should be remembered that this binder sets very quickly, so you will have to act quickly. We cut off the wires with a margin, we will always have time to shorten them!
Chuck and switch
When the wiring process is completed, you should connect the switch itself and the socket. This will not be difficult; you just need to remove about five centimeters of the primary insulation and strip the cores themselves by about a centimeter. Then place them in the connectors specially provided on the switch and base, and press them with a screwdriver. There are only two contacts in the switch for one light bulb, so you can’t go wrong. When connecting the cartridge, polarity does not matter, i.e. It doesn’t matter where you throw the phase and where you put the zero, the light bulb will work. However, safety precautions require that the phase be on the central contact of the light bulb, and the zero on the threaded one.
Connection diagram
Connection to distribution box
Now begins the most exciting process - connecting your wiring to the junction box. If you know where the source of electrical current is located that you can connect to, then this is already good, otherwise the search for a distribution box may take a long time.
To connect the wiring directly to the electrical panel through an additional circuit breaker, use and connect the cable to it. By the way, you can power the circuit from a nearby outlet; this is not prohibited. If you plan to make a “carrying”, then, of course, everything is solved by connecting the plug to the end of the wire.
To begin with, using an indicator screwdriver, we determine the power wire (phase) and zero in the distribution box or socket. If you have never held an indicator screwdriver in your hands, then here it is. Was your electrician decent? Then they must correspond: brown or white is phase, and blue is zero. Old wiring, of course, does not contain colored wires and can look like anything. In this case, you will have to rely only on the readings of the indicator screwdriver. If you don’t have a special clearance group (and most likely you don’t, otherwise you wouldn’t be reading this article), working under open voltage is strictly prohibited! Therefore, you should unscrew the plugs, turn off the machines, and use the same indicator to make sure that the power wire is de-energized.
We power the switch through a phase, that is, we connect the power wire to the white or brown wire that comes from the switch, and we connect the zero to the blue wire that comes from the light bulb, as in the diagram. We connect the remaining white and blue wires that go, respectively, to the light bulb and switch. We carefully insulate all twists using electrical tape. If you want to expand your circuit by connecting an additional light bulb or, for example, adding a socket, you can use a double or triple switch.
Do not twist aluminum or copper wires! This is an extremely unstable compound that quickly oxidizes and can not only fail, but also ignite. To connect such wires, use special terminal blocks. In an electrical store they are presented in a wide range. According to the rules of good manners and for safety reasons, try to use blocks instead of twisting wires everywhere.
If you did everything right, you can be proud of your work. If not... well, finally call an electrician.
I really hope that the article will be useful to you and that everything will work out for you. Perhaps I forgot to say something important that seems self-evident to me and not at all clear to you. Therefore, I will wait for your comments below and will be happy to answer questions, supplement and correct the article if necessary. Thank you for your attention!