Rose hips are propagated by sowing seeds, root suckers, dividing the bush, layering, and green cuttings. Root shoots must be grown for 1-2 years in a nursery with good care. Almost all types and varieties of rose hips are propagated by green cuttings. However, growing rose hips from seeds is perhaps the most affordable way its reproduction. But here, as often happens in life, there are some nuances. Rosehip seeds have a very durable shell, which makes their germination very difficult. Therefore they are stratified. However, stratification often fails if the seeds are collected from ripened or overripe fruits.
To sow seeds, collect brown fruits that are not yet fully ripe and reddened, immediately remove the pulp and store them in damp sand in the refrigerator until sowing. sow them better in autumn so that natural stratification takes place during the winter. Then on next year, in the spring, friendly shoots appear, the care of which consists of loosening the soil, weeding, watering, fertilizing, pest and disease control.
For growing rose hips from seeds, loose, rich organic matter soils, often moistened, with a neutral reaction.
Pre-planting soil preparation should begin a year before planting rose hips. After clearing the area from the previous crop, in the fall the soil is cultivated to a depth of 20 - 22 cm. Acidic soils lime.
It is advisable to apply rotted manure and composts in mixtures with mineral fertilizers. Rose hips can be planted in the fall, before the soil freezes, and in the spring, before the buds open. The seedlings are planted in planting holes measuring 60 x 60 x 60 cm or trenches at a distance of 0.7 - 1.2 m bush from bush.
For one seat contribute 10 - 15 kg organic fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers include 50 g of phosphorus, 25 g of potassium and 15 g of nitrogen.
The applied fertilizers are thoroughly and evenly mixed with the soil. Upon landing trench method Fertilizers are applied over the entire area of the trench, which helps improve the conditions for further growth and development of the bushes.
The roots of the seedlings are processed in a clay mash, the seedlings are placed in a planting hole on a conical tubercle and, spreading the roots around the circumference, sprinkled with earth. The seedling is planted on permanent place 4 - 6 cm deeper.
The soil around the seedling is compacted, watered twice at the rate of 10 liters per plant at a time and mulched. Rosehip varieties are not self-fertile and therefore planting is carried out with several cross-pollinated varieties with the same flowering period.
In increasing productivity and its stability, agricultural practices related to care during cultivation are important. Mulching promotes better survival, growth and development of seedlings in the first years of life. After 2 years, the mulch decomposes and, when incorporated into the soil, has a positive influence on nutrition and aeration during subsequent years of growing rosehip plants.
Mulching improves the water-physical properties of the soil, suppresses weed seedlings, and is especially effective in dry conditions and on light soils.
Full mineral fertilizers under fruit-bearing bushes must be applied annually. In the first years after planting rose hips, bushes should be formed in order to create full-fledged, strong-growth, well-branched bushes. skeletal branches. To do this, when planting, cut off each branch in the bush, leaving 2 - 3 highly developed buds. Then, for 2 years, in order to build up the above-ground and root system, the bush is not pruned. In the third year of growing rose hips, the bushes are pruned again. By this time, the bushes form up to 8 strong branches. When pruning, first of all, weak, low-lying, broken branches and branches extending beyond the bush are removed. In this case, you should also remove root suckers, growing outside the crown of the bush. The above-ground system should be expanded, annually leaving 4 - 6 newly formed replacement shoots.
Thus, in the fourth year, the rosehip bushes will have a fully formed above-ground system, consisting of approximately 20 branches of different ages. In the fifth year, the bushes will enter the fruiting period. Further care for the above-ground rosehip system consists of regular, annual removal of fruit-bearing branches. The main and most important technique keeping rosehip bushes in the period of maximum fruiting is to remove 4-year-old fruit-bearing branches as early as possible, which leads to rejuvenation. Enhanced fruiting of branches when growing rose hips can be achieved by creating, using pinching, better conditions for branching shoots at the juvenile stage. Pinching must be carried out after they reach 70 - 80 cm in length.
It also leads to a decrease in crown height, thickening of branches, increasing their strength and preventing the bushes from “falling apart.” You can rejuvenate by completely cutting off all shoots for reverse growth. After this, shoots are formed, from which flower buds are formed the next year.
The collection of rose hips usually begins as the fruits ripen, in the second half of August. Only high-vitamin species, their forms, hybrids and varieties with varied fruit shapes are allowed for collection and delivery to vitamin factories and pharmacy chains for processing. Properly dried rose hips should have a color from orange-red to brownish-red and a wrinkled surface with a moisture content not exceeding 14%, sour-sweet to taste, odorless.
The walls of dried fruits are hard, brittle, the outer surface is shiny or dull and wrinkled.
At the beginning of the process of drying rose hips at home, the outer parts of the fruit are intensively dehydrated, but the inner layers remain almost untouched. This creates a crust on the outside, which further prevents the inside of the fruit from drying. With such drying, a significant amount of vitamins is lost. Therefore, you need to dry rose hips at home cut into two halves. You can dry it in the shade outdoors or in the oven at low temperature. Drying of the cut fruit occurs more evenly with the least loss of vitamins and biologically active substances.
Alexander
Rose hip - perennial shrub, a genus of plants. Its second name is “wild rose”. Rosehip not only has beautiful flowers, but is also a storehouse of vitamins. At the dacha, it rightfully holds the record for vitamin C content, ahead of apples and currants. When planting shrubs, you need to take into account the composition of the soil, as well as the lack groundwater, because their stagnation can lead to rotting of the roots. Caring for rose hips mainly consists of watering, pruning and feeding the plant. Reproduction is carried out by root suckers, seedlings, and also by growing from seeds. About 100 varieties of rose hips grow on the territory of the Russian Federation. Moreover, many of them are endemic. With a variety of varieties wild rose"You can familiarize yourself by viewing the photo gallery.
Varieties
When choosing rose hips for planting in your summer cottage, it is best to give preference to varieties with a high content of vitamins.
- Rose wrinkled(R. rugosa). One of the most popular species among gardeners. Its height reaches one and a half meters. It has a huge number of shoots, which facilitates the reproduction process. The species is frost-resistant and is not afraid of soils rich in salts. It can grow in poor soils and windy places. The homeland of the wrinkled rose is the Far East.
- Rosehip May, also known as Sh. cinnamon (R. cinnamomea L., R.maialis Herrm). In the wild it grows independently in the European part of Russia, right up to Siberia. The height of this plant varies around 2 m. It is distinguished by sparse thorns, and on shoots with flowers there are none at all. The species blooms in May.
Rosehip May
- Rosehip needle(R. acicularis Lindley). A winter-hardy variety that can withstand very coldy(up to -40 degrees). The height of the bush varies from 1 to 3 m. The fruits of the needle rose are distinguished by a high content of vitamin C, and their size reaches 1.5 cm.
- Rose Webb(R. webbiana Wall. ex Royle). A perennial plant whose height reaches 1 m. It has sparse, slightly curved thorns. The flowers are red or pink, sometimes white. It grows mainly on the slopes of mountain ranges (in the Himalayas, Pamirs, Tibet and Mongolia).
- Dog rose(R. canina) is a plant species with low ascorbic acid content. His distinguishing feature– absence of a hole on the top of the head and rapidly falling leaves.
Advice. Rose hips can be easily tested for vitamin content. It is believed that vitamin species of the plant can whistle. If you blow into the hole at the top of the fruit, you will hear a small whistle.
Among the selection varieties there are:
- "Vitamin VNIVI"– early middle grade. Requires pollination. Therefore, you will need to plant another bush, but of a different variety. It has massive fruits and a considerable amount of vitamins. The yield of the variety is about 2.5 kg per plant. There are no thorns in the fruiting areas, which facilitates the process of collecting fruits.
- "Vorontsovsky 1"- a hybrid of two roses: wrinkled and Webb. In addition to vitamins C and bioflavonoids, it has a high content folic acid. The yield of this variety is slightly higher than that of the previous one and is about 3 kg.
- "Large-fruited VNIVI"– winter-hardy, high-yielding and resistant to diseases and pests. Is different long flowering. Rose hips are usually used to make jam, jam and other preparations.
Rosehip large-fruited VNIVI
- "Russian 1"– vitamin grade. Grown mainly in the Ural region. Productivity is from 1.5 to 2 kg. Rust resistant.
- "Globe" – winter-hardy variety, high, contains many vitamins.
- "Finger"– winter-hardy and pest-resistant variety. Grown in the West Siberian region.
- "Victory". Not much different from the previous variety. In addition to the above characteristics, it has a pleasant aroma.
- "Titanium" – tall bush with fruits growing in 3–5 pieces. Productivity is very high, resistant to diseases and pests.
- "Apple"- a low shrub with large fruits with a sweet and sour taste.
- "Sergievsky"– a variety with an average ripening period. The fruits are sweet and sour with a high content of vitamin C.
- "Ural Champion". A very winter-hardy variety that is suitable for cultivation in all regions of the country.
Planting and care
Rosehip – quite unpretentious shrub. It is planted to produce fruits that contain a large number of vitamins In particular, vitamin C. In addition, the plant produces incredible aroma during the flowering period.
Rose hips are planted in the fall. The place should be bright. But even in a shaded area it will grow well. But if you want to get good harvest rose hips, it is better to choose an area well lit by the sun.
Planting procedure: step-by-step instructions
- Dig a hole the length, width and height, which should be about half a meter.
- At the bottom of the dug hole there should be a small mound of soil.
- Carefully spread out the roots and cover them with soil.
- Water the planted plant with water.
- Shelter for the winter period is not required.
Advice. Planting can be done in the spring, but it is better to do it before buds form. This is done so that the rose hips can more easily withstand planting.
Another planting rule is maintaining the distance between bushes. It must be at least 120 cm.
Caring for rose hips consists of watering, pruning and fertilizing. In the first year of life, especially during drought, the plant needs periodic watering. Mature shrubs are watered infrequently, but abundantly. Watering is required during the period when the ovaries appear, provided there is no rain. A young bush requires up to 30 liters of water, and a fruit-bearing bush requires even more – about 50 liters.
If the rosehip bush is trimmed, it will become a worthy element of landscape design
Rose hips are often used as a hedge. To ensure that the plant does not lose its decorative properties, it should be trimmed periodically. Pruning is done in the fall or in early spring before the buds appear. You can also prune at the end of winter, when all the dried and dead branches are visible.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing requires special consideration. Root feeding It is produced about four times during the year: before and after flowering, at the beginning of fruit ripening and after harvesting.
For the first feeding, organic fertilizer is required, which is diluted at the rate of 3 tbsp. l per bucket of water.
The second feeding consists of half a glass of Agricola per bucket of water. Sometimes organic fertilizer is added.
The third feeding consists of using only Agricola.
For last feeding take a bucket of water and 2 tbsp. l "Agricolaaqua" products. This solution is used to treat rosehip bushes after flowering has ended three times every 10 days.
Wild rose propagation
Rosehip propagation is carried out in several well-known ways.
Growing from seeds. Seeds are collected for planting in August, when the fruits are not yet fully ripe.
- The fruits are collected.
- The seeds are removed and washed.
- Sowing is carried out in September, deepening the seeds by 2 cm. The distance between the seeds should be at least 5 cm.
Rosehip seeds
By green cuttings. Convenient way with a high percentage of rooting.
- The cuttings are cut with an oblique cut.
- Dip into root growth activator.
- Transplanted into pots.
- Cover with film and water moderately as the soil dries.
- Planted in open ground.
Reproduction root shoots. The method is used to preserve the properties of the mother bush. Infrequently used.
Dividing the bush. A shrub about 6 years old is dug up and the rhizome is divided into several parts. Small shrubs are immediately planted in the ground, without waiting for the roots to dry.
Diseases and pests
"Wild Rose" is susceptible to diseases and pest attacks. These include rust, powdery mildew, gray and brown rot, and the damage is caused by rose flies, leaf rollers, spider mites and sawflies.
Using garlic infusion with laundry soap. The shrub should be sprayed with this mixture before flowering and after harvesting the fruits. Topaz will help with rust, and Bordeaux mixture will help with black spotting.
Treat the bushes against pests several times a season.
Rosehip is a high-vitamin plant and perennial. Often used in landscape design as a hedge. Planting and caring for it is not burdensome. Feeding plays a special role. They are held four times a year. Rose hips are used to make tea, decoction, preserves and jam. The shrub contains a large amount of vitamin C and is an excellent remedy for the prevention and treatment of colds.
Growing rose hips: video
Rose hips on a personal plot: photo
And, in fact, he is a wild form beautiful flower. There are about 400 species in the world, and several tens of thousands of bred varieties. Rosehip bushes are very durable, they can bear fruit for 50 years or more, and evergreen varieties live up to 150 years. The average size of the shrub is 2...3 m in height and 1.5...2.0 m in diameter. The berries contain 50 times more vitamin C than lemon fruits, so Rosehip is a valuable vitamin product. Fans of the bush and these high-vitamin berries can easily grow it from seeds at home.
The feasibility of growing rose hips from seeds
From seeds grow plants with diverse properties, sometimes unpredictable, and very different from the berry from which they originated. Therefore, it is worthwhile to grow Rose Hips from seeds in the following cases:
- no possibility vegetative propagation or purchasing varietal bushes;
- you need to get a lot of plants, and the quality of the crop is not important, for example, to create a hedge;
- out of practical interest, grow your own variety of vitamin plant.
When and how to collect rose hips for seeds?
Plants begin to bear fruit very early. Already two or three year old bushes can produce berries. The number of berries on a bush varies greatly from year to year. Typically, maximum fruiting is observed after 3-5 years. For seeds, it is better to take fruits from bushes aged 4-6 years.
A lot of seeds are usually formed under the skin of the berry, which is why the fruit is called a multi-nut. The embryo in the seeds is very large, the endosperm is absent, and the outer shell is very thin, which is why the seeds retain their viability for only 1-2 years. A thousand seeds weigh between 6 and 6.6 g and are very difficult to germinate.
Experts recommend collecting the berries from which the seeds will be selected slightly unripe - in the second half of August, when their shell is not yet too hard. However, it is difficult for an inexperienced gardener to determine the moment when the embryo in the seed is sufficiently developed, while the shell has not yet hardened enough. Therefore, it is better to collect berries for seeds at the end of August.
Laying seeds on
The collected berries are opened without drying, the seeds are taken out and washed with water at a temperature of 37-40 o C. Washing helps to wash away essential substances that interfere with the development of the embryo and its germination. The seed material is then dried using a hair dryer set to cool temperature. It is necessary to obtain a loose mixture, which is mixed with wet, clean river sand. The ratio of sand and seeds is 3:1.
The mixture of seeds and sand is placed in a container, slightly moistened with a spray bottle, covered in a plastic bag and put away in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator, or in a cellar or snowdrift for a period of up to 6 months. The temperature during such storage must be constant: from 0 to 4 o C. This procedure is called stratification, and it is, in fact, copied from natural conditions, when the seeds in the soil survive the cold period and then germinate together.
A seed is a living organism, and biochemical reactions actively take place in it. First of all, breathing. With prolonged cooling during stratification, the embryo activates its growth, and the seed coat becomes thinner, giving all the nutrients to the future sprout. Upon the onset of stable warm weather, it begins its development and forms a strong, hardened plant.
Video: how to properly stratify seeds
During stratification, the bag with seeds is opened several times for ventilation, the sand is lightly mixed to saturate it with oxygen for the seeds to breathe. If it is too dry, you need to pour the mixture from a spray bottle, and if the contents of the container are waterlogged, it is dried in air. The main task at this stage is to prevent the seeds from rotting.
Sowing Rosehip seeds at home
In March, the container is taken out, the seeds are sifted from sand if possible and soaked in warm water for a period of 8 to 12 hours. After this time, the seeds are sown in a previously prepared container.
For sowing, you can take plastic food containers, mini-greenhouses or shallow boxes. A layer is enough soil mixture 7-8 cm. Its composition for Rosehip includes garden soil, sand and peat in equal parts. You need to add to the substrate phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. A mixture of superphosphate and potassium chloride is suitable, 20-40 g of each substance per 10-liter volume of soil mixture. Nitrogen fertilizers cannot be added to the mixture, as they inhibit the germination and initial growth of this plant.
Sowing of seeds is carried out in rows to a depth of no more than 2 cm. It is advisable to maintain a distance between seeds of 1.5-2 cm, between rows 3-4 cm. The grooves with seeds are covered with soil, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with film and put in a warm place.
Seed germination, subject to effective stratification, lasts 3-4 weeks. At this time, the film is periodically removed and the crops are ventilated, preventing the seeds from rotting. When the first shoots appear, the film is removed and the container is moved as close to the glass as possible to give the shoots the maximum possible illumination.
At the age of 1-2 true leaves, the seedlings are picked. You can plant the seedlings in a box according to a 5x5 cm pattern, in separate cells of the same size or larger. Further care consists of watering and fertilizing with Potassium Humate every 14 days. At the end of May, if the plants are already strong enough, they can be transferred to open ground, or they can be planted on the site in September.
Rosehip is a perennial shrub, which belongs to the Rosaceae family. The thorny bush grows on forest edges, clearings, on the slopes of ravines, and in river valleys. Also, this unpretentious bush decorates garden and summer cottages, since unique berries are sources of minerals, vitamins and other microelements that are vital to the human body. In the article we will look at planting and care in open ground.
The plant can be grown from seeds at home. It becomes possible to control the entire process from start to finish.
This method is simple and less labor-intensive, and differs from other methods in that it requires a long time.
Following the instructions for growing rose hips from seeds will allow you to grow plant bushes that will combine decorativeness and excellent fruiting performance.
Instructions for growing rose hips from seeds:
- The seed material should be prepared accordingly, which will help increase germination rates. To do this, in August, collect unripe, only slightly reddened fruits.
- Peel them from the pulp, wash them, cover them with damp sand and store them in a cool place. This will create conditions close to natural for their good growth.
- Plant in the fall, as during winter period seeds are better stratified.
- Sow the seeds in open ground to a depth of 2 cm.
- Water and mulch with manure and sawdust.
- In spring, cover the sowing with film. For rapid growth, ventilate regularly.
- Remove the film with the onset of warm weather.
You need to remember about thinning, since plants must receive sunlight and nutrition from the soil. Thin out after the seedlings have three leaves.
We sow rosehip seeds:
Step-by-step guide to growing plants outdoors
When can you plant - autumn or spring?
Rose hips are planted both in the spring, before the beginning of the growing season, and in autumn time . For planting, one-year and two-year-old seedlings are used. Planting steps include:
Determining a landing site
When choosing a location, you should consider not only aesthetic appearance garden plot, but also the needs of the plant for it normal development and productivity. For this plant the bushes in a well-lit place with fertile soil.
The ideal soil for it is loam and slightly acidic soil. It is not recommended to plant the plant in wetlands where groundwater is close.
Preparing the soil before planting a bush
The main requirements for the soil are thorough cleaning of weeds and accumulation of nutrients. The soil in the selected area needs to be dug up to 20 cm.
Then dig holes for planting, the width and height of which should be half a meter. At the bottom of the depression, make a small hill of fertile soil.
How to plant ornamental shrubs correctly
In order for the bush to take root well, you need to cut off its roots by a couple of centimeters, while their length should be at least 25 cm. Before planting Immerse the seedlings in a mash of peat and manure. Planting pits water well.
Then lower the seedlings, straighten the roots and carefully sprinkle with soil so that no voids form. Then compact the earth around young bush, water and mulch with peat.
It is important that the distance between bushes varied from 60 to 120 cm.
In order for the bush to take root well, you need to trim its roots - their length should be at least 25 cm How to care for a thorny plant - basic rules
Right managed care helps increase productivity, improve taste qualities and accelerating fruit ripening. That's why necessary measures must be carried out annually without fail.
Optimal watering
Rose hips tolerate drought well, so it does not need constant watering. The exception is hot, dry weather.
In this case, it is necessary to water the plant, using three buckets of water for young bushes, and five for fruiting ones.
Basically, the procedure is carried out about four times throughout the season.
Loosening the soil
Proper care includes periodic loosening of the soil.
The purpose of this event is to improve and restore the soil structure, its properties, accumulate and maintain moisture in the ground and supply plant roots with oxygen.
You should also constantly weed, destroying all the weeds that have grown near the bushes.
Bush formation - pruning
Rosehip pruning is important both for decorative purposes and for fruiting the bush. The first procedure should be performed immediately after planting, cutting off all the branches, leaving no more than three buds.
The next pruning should be done after two years, by removing weak, broken branches and those on the ground. Healthy and powerful branches should be cut at a height of 20 cm.
The tops should be pinched to stimulate the development of lateral branches with flower buds, in shoots formed on stumps 75 cm high.
In three years, the berry crop will begin to produce fruits. By this age, the shrubs should have about fifteen powerful evenly spaced branches of different ages, since this berry crop loves light, and the presence of many branches complicates the process of laying flower buds.
Subsequent formation of the bush will consist of eliminating broken, dry, diseased branches, weak shoots and removing branches that are more than five years old.
Pruning should be done in autumn or spring period until the buds open.
Rosehip pruning:
Feeding with appropriate nutrients and microelements
For better growth rosehip shoots need to be provided in sufficient quantities with all nutrients. For these purposes, fertilizers are added using organic and mineral agents.
From the second year after disembarkation, add nitrogen fertilizers, and after three years fertilize with compost or humus.
Root feeding is carried out four times a year: before and after flowering, at the beginning of berry ripening and after harvesting.
Preventive measures against diseases and pests
Rosehip plantings are attacked by many pests, which destroy its above-ground and underground parts. These pests include the weevil, leaf roller caterpillar, spider mite, rosefly and rose hip fly.
Common rose hip diseases, causing significant harm plant bushes, is powdery mildew, rust, white and black spotting.
Therefore, to ensure that the berry crop does not become a center of accumulation of pests and diseases, it is necessary to carry out protective procedures in a timely manner.
In spring and autumn period cut dry and diseased branches, remove fallen leaves, burn them, since fungal spores can overwinter under them, and also dig up tree trunk circles.
Inspect the bushes regularly and, if a problem is detected, determine the type of disease and treat with appropriate special proven means.
For prevention purposes Treat shrubs before buds open necessary preparations to avoid diseases inherent in this plant.
Preparing for winter
Rosehip is considered a strong and winter-hardy plant.. Most of its varieties do not need shelter for the winter.
An exception may be young people who are sensitive to low temperatures seedlings decorative varieties that require reliable protection.
That's why trunk circle cover the bush with straw mats and cover with mulch. Wrap the bush itself hermetically with burlap or other thermal insulation material. Before winter, the plants should be fed, pruned and ripe fruits collected.
Compliance with all care rules berry crop will allow you to get a rich harvest of medicinal, and most importantly environmentally friendly fruits.
Reproduction methods, care
How to propagate rose hips? In addition to seeds, for planting rose hips also cuttings and layering are used.
Propagation by green cuttings - cuttings
Rational reproduction cultivars and varieties of rose hips by cuttings- green cuttings, which should be prepared in early July. During this period, the intensity of shoot growth decreases.
To do this, carefully cut the shoots and divide them into cuttings, so that each of them has three healthy growth buds. The leaves located at the bottom should be removed, and the remaining ones should be shortened by half.
Make a straight cut at the top of the cutting, at a distance of 1 cm from the bud, and cut the stem at the bottom at an angle of 45 degrees.
Cuttings for good education and root growth, treat with specially designed growth stimulants. Then planting material plant in a pre-prepared substrate of peat and sand.
The root formation process lasts four weeks.. At first, take care of it - follow the watering regime and do not allow the soil to dry out.
Grow by layering
Most gardeners prefer this method reproduction. This procedure is best performed from mid-spring to the end of summer. To do this, you need to identify a productive shrub and separate young cuttings, the height of which is 30 cm.
Then plant for rooting. You can also not separate it, but bend it into a furrow 10 cm deep, pin it and fill it up. fertile soil. Water regularly and hill up to avoid the appearance of adventitious roots.
Separate next fall young plant from the mother bush and prune aboveground part at a height of 15 cm. Dig it up in the spring and you can plant it in a permanent place.
The advantage of propagation by layering is the complete transmission of varietal varieties. useful properties mother plant.
Right organized boarding and timely, properly performed care will allow grow green hedge from rosehip plantations.
Which will not only give a special style to the site, will protect against uninvited guests, but will also become an indispensable supplier of vitamins for the whole family.
Growing rose hips
Reproduction of roses, like other plants, is carried out sexually or asexually (vegetatively) in several ways. The main method of propagating roses in a nursery is budding.
In most cases, to obtain rosehip rootstocks, seeds of a common species - the canina rose - R. canina are used. A good or completely benign rosehip intended for rootstock production must have the following properties.
- It must be completely winter-hardy in the area for which it is prescribed, drought-resistant where required, and completely immune to fungal diseases.
- It should produce shoots or branches that are, if possible, devoid of thorns or have the latter to a minimal extent, and when grown into trunks, form the latter to a minimal extent. short term. In other words, it must have the fastest and strongest growth possible, combining this property with maximum frost resistance.
- It should be as smooth and straight as possible root collar, which greatly facilitates the production of grafting and especially budding when obtaining bush, i.e., low-grafted roses.
Some authors have also expressed an insistent wish that the ideal rosehip, when sown in the fall or with timely stratification, sprouts in the first spring, and not in the second, and does not have to keep the seeds sanded or surrounded by moist soil for two winters and one summer between them, as is the case is now being practiced. However, in the author’s opinion, this nature of seed germination and similar germination in the second spring are generally characteristic of many tree and shrub species by nature, and it is unlikely that it will be easy to change this property of rosehip seeds at our request.
There is, however, a statement that if the seeds, or, more precisely, rose hips to obtain seeds, are collected not in the fall, when the fruits have already turned red, but at the end of summer, precisely at the moment when they just begin to turn red and when the woody shells of their seeds have not yet completely hardened, then such seeds will sprout when sown in the fall next spring, and not in a year.
Such statements, however, require thorough verification. According to the author, it is much more expedient to simply collect the next annual collection of rosehip seeds, immediately stratify them and sand them in a box, not allowing the seeds and the surrounding sand to dry out, keep them moist until the fall, when they are sown on seed beds, where seedlings will certainly will appear in sufficient abundance next spring. From the above, by the way, it follows that in our rose culture in Russia it is necessary to acquire or plant mother-seed plantings of rose hips in order to collect and obtain seeds for rootstocks that would produce rose hips that have all of the above desired properties. It’s not so difficult to do this, you just have to want it. Not much space will be required to plant such a mother-seed rosehip plantation, and our flower farms will have to do this over time. But for this it is necessary, first of all, to find the source material, i.e., an ideal rose hip with the above-described qualities - the canina rose. If desired, this is also possible in the north.
Of course, it cannot be considered normal in any way that for sowing and obtaining rosehip rootstocks: - canina in the north, for example, in Leningrad region, you have to take rosehip seeds from the south, where there is a lot of it, for example, from the Northern regions. Caucasus, not to mention the fact that in in this case We do not know at all what kind of seeds we get and what qualities the rootstocks obtained in this way will have. It would be a completely different matter if we had at our disposal everywhere, especially in the north, rose hip plantations with the required qualities and properties.
Rosehip seeds obtained in winter must, as already mentioned, be sanded (stratified). Stratification consists of taking 1 volume part of seeds to 3 parts of wet sand, then sand and seeds are mixed well and evenly.
The seeds sanded in this way are placed in a cool place. It is advisable to bury the seeds in the snow until spring. It is necessary that the seeds do not dry out, and therefore in the spring, when the snow melts, the dishes with the seeds are not buried deeply in the still damp soil so that the seeds remain moist all the time.
It is unacceptable to sow rosehip seeds without stratification to obtain rootstocks in the first spring, since the seeds will not germinate then and there will be no seedlings until next spring. In the fall, before the onset of frost, the seeds are sown on seed beds. In this case, the sowing is done relatively densely, keeping in mind the subsequent green picking and the fact that the seeds with such somewhat dense sowing will better or more easily lift the layer of earth above them when they emerge. The author generally does not admit at all to obtaining seedlings or rosehip rootstocks without green picks. In fact, what is the point in getting rosehip seedlings with poor roots or a single root going deep, when at a relatively low cost(for green picking) you can get first-class rosehip seedlings with good branched fibrous roots.
We call green picking the transplantation of newly emerged small green seedlings onto picking ridges, which have managed to develop, in addition to the cotyledons, only one or two leaves. The sooner such a seedling is picked, the better.
During the green picking made in spring, the tip of the root is shortened, which causes the root to develop branches, forming a fibrous root system. At the same time, seedlings planted during green picking at an equal distance from each other receive sufficient area for development.
Careful, timely preparation of the soil for picking ridges, as well as the application of organic fertilizers, are absolutely necessary.
The beds for pricked rosehip seedlings are prepared as is generally customary in the area. On ridges, seedlings are planted not in longitudinal, but in transverse rows, row from row at a distance of 20 cm, and seedling from seedling in rows at a distance of at least 5 cm. Watering is required only the first time. Rosehip seedlings usually tolerate replanting or green picking well.
Maintenance during the summer consists of loosening the surface of the beds and weeds, and if necessary, watering. The ridges remain in this form until the spring of the following summer and autumn, when the same care for the seedlings is applied as in the first year. In the autumn of the second year, the seedlings grown on the ridge will be two years old, and then they usually must be dug up and sorted in the fall, and, if necessary, sent to another place in proper packaging.
Rosehip seedlings are usually not left on the ridge for more than two years, and this is usually not necessary, because by the autumn of the second year, even in the north, these seedlings reach such a size that it is impossible to leave them longer on the ridges, but give them when picking or planting on the ridge there are large ones against the shown distance there is no calculation. Here in St. Petersburg nutritious soil You always get fairly good two-year-old wild rose hips, some of which can be used for grafting into the neck in winter, and some for summer budding.
Two-year-old seedlings dug out of the ridges in the fall are sorted by size and vigor into three grades: first, second and third. Weaker specimens can be planted again in the ridges until they reach a size sufficient for improvement. Most strong plants are selected, if there is a need, to obtain standards. For this purpose, selected specimens are planted in a special quarter, and the greater the distance between seedlings in this quarter, the better. But since you usually have to save space, it is clear that too large distances between individual bushes are not acceptable here either.
To obtain strong trunks from rose hips after planting, no cutting or removal of branches should be done; on the contrary, the more of the latter remain and the stronger the bush, the better. The longer the rosehip bush sits in one place, the stronger, thicker, and most importantly, higher the annual shoots - future trunks - can be obtained. On average, to obtain standard shoots, a rosehip bush must remain in one place after transplantation for three years. But, in general, this period greatly depends on local conditions.
When the rosehip bushes grow shoots strong enough for trunks by autumn, only one strongest shoot is left on the roots of the bush; all the rest are removed.
Speaking about standard rose hips, it should be said here that in St. Petersburg it has long been customary to use rose hips with 3-4 branches or shoots coming from the root for rootstocks, grafting them in winter in a greenhouse at a height of 20-25 cm. To obtain such branched or several stemmed rootstocks, it is better Just plant annual canina and after two years you can expect the desired result on good soil.
I had to observe that rosehip seedlings are sometimes affected by linen in the first year. This must always be kept in mind when growing rose hips on rootstocks and, just in case, have in stock means to combat linen and other diseases and pests.
As for the choice of rosehip variety - canina - for the rootstock, it should be noted that in Russia, if you wish, you can find quite a lot of different forms of rosehip suitable for this purpose, including those that are quite frost-resistant in the north.
For his part, the author considers the red-leaved rosehip - R. rubrifolia - to be the most worthy of our attention as a rootstock. This rosehip gives in St. Petersburg strong bushes and tall boles, and its frost resistance is complete here. This species is attributed to being susceptible to rust, as indicated, by the way, by R.I. Shredder. But at the same time, the same R.I. Schroeder considered the species R. rubrifolia to be an excellent rootstock for grafting roses.
This may be explained by the fact that in the north there is generally less rust, which, however, cannot be said about more southern areas.
Prof. I.I. Kichunov