climbing rose one of the most bright jewelry garden, but sometimes it stops pleasing abundant flowering. Why doesn't the climbing rose bloom? Professional flower growers will tell you about the reasons and how to eliminate them.
Climbing roses have beautiful decorative properties, I use them in figured design arches, gazebos, fences, garlands, columns, etc. It is a real tragedy for a gardener if a climbing rose does not bloom.
Why don't climbing roses bloom?
1. Unsuitable soil
Climbing roses love loose fertile land. If these plants don't bloom, they are probably lacking nutrients. Then they need to be fed. In general, climbing roses are fed according to the following scheme:
In the first year after planting, you can not feed roses at all or feed them with organic matter: infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20) at the rate of 3-5 liters per bush.
In the spring, after removing the cover and pruning, it is recommended to apply ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m. After 2 weeks, fertilizing should be repeated.
At the beginning of budding, another feeding is carried out. This time you can use complex fertilizers based on nitrogen (for example, Kemiru Lux (30 g per 1 sq.m)).
Before the first flowering, climbing roses need one more feeding. An infusion of mullein (1:10) and chicken manure (1:20) in an amount of 3-5 liters per bush is suitable for this.
After the first wave of flowering (late July - early August), roses should be fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers (according to instructions), preferably not containing nitrogen.
The last feeding is carried out after the rose has flowered and is aimed at ripening the shoots. To do this, you should use superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq.m.).
It is also worth remembering that before planting the bush, the soil must be loosened to a depth of 70 cm. Unsuitable soil or its poor-quality treatment affect the flowering and number of buds of the plant.
2. Wild growth
Roses often form shoots - these are small branches with leaves and thorns that appear in the root zone. If the shoots that thicken the bush are not removed in a timely manner, the plant will begin to grow wild and stop blooming. Trim root shoots follows close to the ground. And it is advisable to do this in a timely manner.
3. Excess nitrogen fertilizers
Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers promotes the growth of lush green mass, which has a detrimental effect on the process of bud formation. It is better to replace nitrogen fertilizers with a mixture of potassium salt and superphosphate.
4. Diseases of climbing roses
Among the large list of rose diseases, powdery mildew and bark cancer most often affect these plants. Preventive measures against powdery mildew is a double spraying of dormant buds and shoots with 1% Bordeaux mixture. But fertilizing climbing roses will help prevent bark cancer potash fertilizers(in September, superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 20-30 g each), proper and timely covering of plants for the winter, destruction of affected shoots, ventilation of plants sheltered for the winter during thaws.
5. Wrong landing site
Sometimes flower growers plant the queen of flowers in an unsuitable place for her, which can lead not only to a lack of flowering, but also to the death of the plant itself. It is important to know that climbing roses do not tolerate drafts and shade very well.
6. Poor preparation for winter
Roses require special shelter for the winter, as they can die not only from low temperatures, but also from dampness during the winter thaw. Therefore, do not forget about the air gap between the plant and the shelter. From the end of summer, you should stop loosening the soil and frequent watering, eliminate nitrogen fertilizers (leave only potassium fertilizers), cut out all wild growth, weak and damaged shoots.
7. Incorrect pruning
Climbing roses only need to remove old shoots and wild growth. Excessive pruning of young branches is undesirable, as this does not allow the bush to grow normally. Prune roses moderately so that they do not spend a lot of energy recovering from this procedure.
Now that it’s clear why climbing roses don’t bloom, you can fix everything and plant a climbing rose along the column.
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How to let a climbing rose climb a column?
If there is not enough space in your garden for lush thickets of climbing roses, but you still want to have a “pink” corner, you can try to cover a column with roses.
They begin to form an adult climbing rose bush around the column after spring pruning.
1. Choose a sturdy support for the rose. It could be as long wooden beam, and a beautiful decorative column. The main condition is strength. After all, you don't want poor quality Has this support broken under the weight of flowering vines?
2. Securely install the column 40 cm from the bush. It is necessary to dig the support deep into the ground and perhaps even concrete the base. In this case, you won’t have to worry that the support will fall under the pressure of the first squally wind and bury all your dreams of a beautiful column covered with roses.
3. Begin to wrap the main strands around the column in a spiral. Again, keep in mind that lush flowering can only be achieved if the shoots are located at an angle of no more than 45 degrees with respect to the support.
4. Short side shoots It is not necessary to have columns around. It will be enough to carefully lift them and tie them to a support with soft tape or place them between the main shoots. This will add dimension to your floral design.
5. Tie the shoots loosely around the column at the very top of the support to prevent the bush from falling apart under the weight of the inflorescences.
The southern beauty climbing rose is heat-loving and capricious. Growing it in temperate latitudes is not an easy task. But few plants can compete with it in the beauty of its flowers and the elegance of its leaves. Gardeners are willing to go to great lengths just to see the waterfalls of magnificent flowers falling from walls, arches and arbors, with which climbing roses delight the eye. Preparing for winter is a responsible undertaking, without which these plants will freeze out at the first serious frost.
Prepare your sleigh in summer
Roses do not enter a state of natural dormancy as a result of long-term selection of varieties. They meet the winter with leaves, which does not add frost resistance to them. They can easily withstand a short-term drop in temperature to -5...-7 o C, but if a thaw occurs in winter, already at zero degrees they begin to grow. Common ones also have this feature, and preparation for winter should begin for them long before its onset.
The right fertilizers
In order for the shoots to ripen well and become strong enough, the plant is fertilized several times a season. The last nitrogen ones should be received no later than July. They cannot be introduced since August to prevent the growth of new foliage. How to fertilize climbing roses from the end of summer? Preparing for winter with the help of microelements involves adding phosphorus and potassium.
Strengthening fertilizers are used from the beginning of August. The first time a solution is added in which 20 g of superphosphate, 3 g of boric acid and 10 g Consumption - 10 l per 4 m 2.
The second feeding is done a month later. It can be root or applied leaf by leaf. Add 15 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate to a bucket of water.
For foliar feeding the concentration should be three times lower.
With the arrival of autumn they stop earthworks around the bushes: loosening, digging and watering. This is done so as not to awaken the already delicate climbing roses before autumn.
Preparation for winter includes complete removal of leaves before covering. During wintering, they damp out and rot, which can cause the development of diseases.
How to prune a climbing rose
The overwhelming number of varieties flower buds are laid on overwintered shoots of the previous year. If you prune them in the fall, there will be no flowering. However, over the course of a season, the plant produces many powerful shoots up to 2-3 m in length, and placing them under cover is an overwhelming task. So it is necessary to remove some of the lashes in the fall.
The main corrective work is carried out in the spring. In the fall, the vines are cut minimally, since it is not known how much the vines will suffer from frost and damping off during the cold season; this should be done taking into account the characteristics of the variety and the density of the bush.
Too young, weak and immature shoots are cut out. Old branches that are difficult to bend and immature tops are removed. The side shoots extending from the main stems and some conductors are shortened.
If the bush is very thick, you can leave 11-12 promising shoots and cut out the rest. If less than 10 shoots have formed on the plant, they cannot be removed.
Climbing roses include many species, and the degree autumn pruning varies depending on the variety. It is better to leave the lashes in the fall with a reserve in case they rot or freeze in the cold.
photo from the site: gid-str.ru
Planting and caring for climbing roses is a real art. These delicate flowers They are extremely popular among gardeners and summer residents. What are the reasons for such love for curvy beauties? They are indispensable for vertical gardening of a site and dividing it into zones, they are perfectly combined with any architectural forms, and their luxurious buds attract the attention of landscape designers around the world.
These roses love warmth, and the climate in which they are grown must be appropriate. If you want to plant the seeds of this plant on your personal plot, ensure a comfortable “accommodation” for the new guest and do not forget to warm the fragile shoots every winter.
Choosing a variety and variety
Beautiful climbing roses divided into many varieties. Here are the most famous representatives in our country: garden culture:
- Pierre de Ronsard - vigorous roses with luxurious heavy cupped flowers. The petals of the plant have a rich cream or soft pink hue, which either fades towards the edges, becoming snow-white, or becomes brighter and more pronounced. This crop was bred for the Mediterranean climate. This variety has very few thorns.
- Santana - the color of the terry buds abundantly covering the bush is blood-red, the leaves are shiny and dark. This plant withstands rain and continues to bloom until the first frost.
- Handel is a climber with a bright and rich pink edging. The shade may vary depending on weather conditions: in cold weather the colors fade and fade, and from the rain the wavy rose petals begin to turn brown. The indisputable advantage of the variety is its frost resistance. Loves cool weather and does not tolerate excessive watering. The range of this garden crop is changeable - from delicate and pure white to crimson. looks impressive on a light or silver support.
- Laguna – double roses with dark green foliage and a persistent fruity aroma. A bush strewn with large delicate buds can reach 2 meters.
- Cordes are wonderful cold-resistant flowers of white, pink, and crimson shades. Charming and extremely unpretentious variety with dense and thick dark leaves. Does not require shelter for the winter.
And this list is just the beginning of a long list. The variety of climbing roses of all colors and sizes is a real paradise for gardeners and summer residents who want to transform their green space. Tall bushes dotted with scarlet, crimson and white cup-shaped buds look noble and elegant. Let's try to understand the conditions of keeping this beautiful plant.
Experts divide flowers into groups:
- The first includes flexible arched shoots from 1.5 to 5 meters long. Their buds are no different large sizes– they are small, with delicate terry petals. They easily tolerate the winter drop in temperature, but some lovers find a light shelter that protects the bush from the cold all season.
- The second group contains plants obtained as a result of crossing with large and loose inflorescences, resistance to frost and various diseases. The length of the shoots can reach 4 meters.
- The third group included flowers that arose after mutations bush varieties. Garden crops of this variety bear fruit later. These are climbers with large and heavy buds of rich colors.
Climbing roses (climbing) planting and care: photos and videos
photo from website: floston.ru
Growing these plants is a pleasant process in which any owner can participate. garden plot. First you need to choose a place to place the future bush. What conditions will be most favorable for this culture? Where is it strictly forbidden to plant seeds of these flowers?
The first rule is that the plant needs sun rays and coolness. Terry small and large buds of climbing roses adore light and strive for it. The higher you place them, the better they will bloom. Special supports are best suited for this. The exposure should be southern or southwestern: under the gentle rays, the growth will ripen faster, and the cherished time of flowering will follow.
How to grow climbing roses? These do not tolerate dampness and excessive accumulation of moisture, they like dryness, so carefully monitor the groundwater level. It should not exceed 70-100 centimeters. The most optimal level is 100-150 cm. The most favorable option is to move the future bush to a higher ground, where it will not be in danger of being saturated with moisture.
Monitoring the condition of inflorescences in winter is a difficult task. Although most varieties are distinguished by enviable frost resistance, make sure that near the planting site there is a building designed for storing shrubs in winter.
Caring for climbing roses in the garden: preparing the area for planting
It is better to plant plants in early autumn (September or October) or early spring. such flowers cannot be propagated, so we're talking about about full-fledged bushes. If you have chosen the cold season, the depth should be 2 cm more at general level 5 cm. The seedling must withstand the approaching frosts. To do this, carry out hilling with earth and sand (with a height of 2-25 centimeters). If this step is skipped, the shoots will dry out and die at the first significant temperature change.
Many plants love space, but the same cannot be said about these flowers: they are content with modest conditions. It is enough to select a small strip of land (50 by 50 cm). However, the distance between the planted plants should be more than decent - from 2 to 3 meters. Special attention should be paid to treating the soil before transplanting seeds into it: the holes made should be manured and watered thoroughly.
Climbing climbing roses require special planting and care when planted next to an architectural object. In this case decorative decoration must be located at a certain distance, which is at least half a meter.
Preparation for sending to the soil
Plants should be treated: take the seedlings and immerse them in water by the roots a day before planting. After this, use pruning shears to trim the leaves and remove broken and damaged shoots. The part that will be located above the ground should not be high: it needs to be shortened, leaving about 30 centimeters. We do the same with overgrown rhizomes; their length should be identical. Pay attention to rotten areas. They should be trimmed until you reach a healthy location.
One more necessary procedure– disinfection. Seedlings need to be immersed in 3% copper sulfate.
Climbing roses: planting and care
Here are some tips for gardeners who decide to decorate their garden with these magnificent flowers.
- Remember that the roots should not break or bend. Ideal option- free and free placement in the hole made.
- Should the grafting site be left above ground? It turns out that it needs to be lowered into the ground to a depth of 10 cm, with the usual depth of 5 cm for other varieties of roses.
- Afterwards, the hole should be filled ⅔ full with soil. Compact the planting site so that the soil adheres tightly to the rhizome. Then provide water to the plant.
- By the approaching frost, the level of hilling should rise. However, the threat may not only be low temperature, but also intense heat. If the seedling is on open place under the scorching rays of the sun, it can be placed in the shade, covered with pine needles.
- There is not a cloud in the sky, but the earth is dry? In this case, you need to increase the frequency of watering and carry it out 5-6 times a day.
- If planting occurs in a warm and dry spring, add a layer of moist peat to the soil in the hole. Then remove 3 to 5 buds from the shoot.
How to grow a climbing rose from seeds
- Disinfect first. To do this, place the seeds in a container with hydrogen peroxide. This will help prevent mold growth. Cover them up cotton pads or a cloth soaked in the solution and place in small bags for storage.
- Regularly monitor the condition of future seedlings, preventing the appearance of a white coating.
- Sprouted seeds need to be transplanted into pots. Mulching with perlite will be a good help for growing plants.
- The first flower bud may appear already in the second month of growth.
- Continue to care for the flowers, feed them with fertilizers, water them regularly, but do not allow them to rot or become damp. In the spring you can replant and send the beauties to the garden.
How to care for climbing roses
Proper cultivation of this garden crop guarantees compliance with four rules:
- Regular watering, which should not be excessive.
- Seasonal feeding - without it the plant will wither.
- The bush should be protected from diseases and pest attacks.
- Another necessary procedure is loosening the soil.
Take care of these beauties, and throughout the summer you will be pleased with lush and large buds.
What should proper watering be like - one of the main conditions proper care for climbing roses in the garden? In the absence of precipitation, you should water the flowers every 10-12 days. Moisture should penetrate deep into the ground, nourishing the roots. On the second or third day after abundant watering you need to carefully cultivate the soil. Good alternative loosening procedure - mulching.
Roses need to be pruned. This procedure is carried out in the spring. You cannot remove overwintered shoots: get rid only of weak tops on which the buds have not developed.
As a result, only strong branches should remain on the bush. When growing on a support, watch the length of the vines. If it exceeds the height of the support or trellis, shorten the shoot.
In winter, it is necessary to provide shelter for the bush, preserving the lashes and shoots. Preparations must begin long before the onset of frost.
- Watering and cultivation of the land is stopped at last days August.
- In autumn, you should take care of shelter for the rose. The bush is carefully bent to the ground, pressing each branch against each other and laying the already tied bundles.
- With the first strong drop in temperature, cover the plant using lutrasil or roofing felt.
Climbing roses care and cultivation: supports
What supports can there be for these wonderful flowers? Show your imagination and you will be able to transform any space, making it romantic and sophisticated. Stems with bright buds, whimsically climbing up a wall or trellis, will become the best decoration your home or garden.
There are no restrictions. You can choose a support made of plastic or metal, curved rods or wooden planks that form an original composition.
Take care of the proper growth and development of these royal roses and they will respond to you with magnificent and lush flowering.
Climbing roses description.
Growing climbing roses.
Planting climbing roses.
Caring for climbing (climbing) roses.
Pruning climbing roses.
Propagation of climbing roses.
Sheltering climbing roses for the winter.
Supports for climbing roses.
Description of climbing roses
climbing roses- roses with long creeping or hanging shoots, for the growth of which support is absolutely necessary. Among them there are roses that bloom once a year, as well as remontant ones, that is, they bloom many times.
Climbing roses have shoots that are several meters long. The flowers are white, pink, red, yellow from 2.5 to 9 cm, from single to semi-double, odorless, collected in inflorescences. Flowering is long-lasting and begins in June.
When describing climbing roses, it should be noted that they occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, go well with small architectural forms, and are indispensable for creating decorative columns, pyramids, arches, trellises, green decoration of building walls, balconies, and gazebos.
There are many varieties of climbing roses, the description of which will take a lot of time and space. However, according to the nature of their growth, these roses can be divided into three groups:
Curly - from 5 m to 15 m high.
Climbing height - from 3 m to 5 m.
Semi-climbing in height - from 1.5 m. - 3 m.
The formation of shoots in climbing roses is continuous, due to which the flowering and budding phases are very extended. The total flowering duration is from 30 to 170 days. Among the repeat-blooming roses, the group of large-flowered roses, or Climings, stands out for its decorativeness.
Growing climbing roses
Choosing a place for planting and growing climbing roses. For growing, you need to choose sunny and ventilated places. Roses are light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on walls and supports with southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to southern exposure; good lighting helps the growth to mature, which will then flower next year.
Planting climbing roses.
Groundwater should be no higher than 70-100 cm, optimally 100-150 cm. It will not be possible to grow climbing roses in swampy, damp places prone to flooding.
When choosing a place to plant, be sure to think about how you will arrange climbing roses for shelter for the winter. Climbing roses grow to a height of more than 2.5 m. When laying climbing roses for the winter, they should not “cover” other plants that do not require shelter.
What kind of soil should it be? To grow climbing roses, you need fertile, loose, moderately moist soil with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm. And so, in the place of the future rose garden, it is necessary to prepare the soil: for this purpose it is better to use rotted manure (cow), if the soil is too heavy, you need to add sand, peat, which will give the soil looseness.
Selection of seedlings. The seedling should have 2-3 well-ripened lignified shoots with green, intact bark and a developed root system with many thin roots (lobe). Root collar in a seedling aged 1-2 years, it looks like a slight thickening separating the wild rootstock and the stem of the cultivated plant.
Planting climbing roses
When is the best time to plant roses? IN middle lane In Russia, it is preferable to plant roses in the fall from September to the end of October, or early spring from mid-April to the end of May. In autumn, plants must be planted 2 cm deeper than in spring (total depth 5 cm), so that the shoots of planted roses do not dry out and suffer from the approaching cold, they are covered with earth and sand to a height of 20-25 cm. When the temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures, the roses shelter for the winter.
Preparing climbing roses for planting. Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water a day before planting. Leaves are removed from the shoots and immature and broken shoots are cut out with sharp pruning shears. Aboveground part shorten to 30 cm, long roots - up to 30 cm, cutting out rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the grafting site are removed - wild shoots will develop from them. Seedlings are disinfected by dipping in 3% copper sulfate.
Planting climbing roses. Planting pits are prepared measuring 50 × 50 cm, the distance between plants should be at least 2 - 3 meters. When planting, do not bend the roots of the plants too much. They should be laid out freely in the hole so that they go to the bottom without bending upward, and the seedlings should be held at such a height that the grafting site is approximately 10 cm below the soil surface. (Other varieties of roses are planted 5 cm deep, but climbing roses are planted deeper.)
Then the hole is filled to two-thirds of its depth with soil, compacted so that it fits properly against the roots, and the plant is watered. Thorough watering in the spring is especially important. Only after the water has been absorbed is the hole filled with earth, and the seedling is hilled to a height of at least 20 cm.
Before the onset of frost, the hilling level is raised. In spring, this sprinkled soil will protect the plant from the scorching rays of the sun and drying winds. For greater reliability, the seedling can be slightly shaded with pine needles. In dry weather, it is watered every 5-6 days. Three weeks after spring planting, the soil from the bush is carefully raked. It is advisable to do this on a cloudy day, when there is no danger of a sharp drop in temperature at night.
At the beginning of April, roses are opened and treated in the same way. autumn planting. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the most sensitive place of the entire plant, the grafting site, still remains 10 cm below ground level. In the spring, new shoots will grow above it.
If a climbing rose grows near a wall, then the distance to it should not be less than 50 cm. The plant is brought to the wall itself by an inclined planting at an appropriate angle. If a rose were grown close to the wall, it would constantly suffer from a lack of moisture.
When late spring planting carried out dry warm weather, it is useful to cover the soil with a layer of damp peat or any other mulch. After planting, the shoots are cut into 3 - 5 buds.
Caring for climbing roses
How to care for climbing (climbing) roses? Caring for climbing roses involves proper watering, timely fertilizing, pruning, disease and pest control, as well as loosening and mulching the soil. In addition, climbing roses must be provided with beautiful supports and covered for the winter.
In response to such care and careful care, these beauties will certainly thank you magnificent flowering throughout almost the entire summer
How to water climbing roses? Good plant care is first and foremost proper watering. During the growing season, roses consume a lot of water. In the absence of precipitation, from the moment the buds appear, as well as after pruning, the plants are watered every 10-12 days.
When watering, the soil must be soaked so that the moisture penetrates deeper than the roots (1-2 buckets per plant). On the 2-3rd day after watering (or rain), the soil around the plant must be loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm, which helps retain moisture in the soil and improve air access to the roots. Loosening can be replaced by mulching the soil.
Lack of moisture in the soil affects the growth of roses, and the concentration of salts in the substrate also increases. But we must remember that too frequent watering from the hose raises air humidity, and this contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.
Feeding climbing roses. To ensure proper care for plants, it is necessary to fertilize the soil. Climbing roses need regular feeding more than others. Throughout the summer, they need to be fed every 10 to 20 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizers with complete, complex ones. Fertilizers can be either dry or liquid
First of all, in the spring they carry out liquid fertilizer complete mineral fertilizer (according to instructions). After 10 - 20 days, feed the plants with organic matter (1 bucket of mullein per 5 buckets of water + 3 kg of ash) 1 liter of this mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and watered at the root of the roses. This operation will ensure an abundant start to flowering with brightly colored flowers.
Such fertilizing, alternating with each other, should be done until mid-summer. From mid-July they stop feeding nitrogen fertilizers and switch to phosphorus and potassium so that the bush begins to prepare for winter.
Whenever feeding, you must strictly adhere to the dosage! If there is an excess of any chemical elements, the condition of the roses may worsen. Such care will only harm the plants.
Pruning climbing roses
Very important place When caring for climbing roses, pruning takes place.
The main purpose of pruning is to form the crown, obtain abundant and long flowering, keeping plants healthy.
At good care at the roses for summer period Long shoots grow, up to 2-3.5 m. They are covered for the winter. in spring next year only prune frozen and frosted shoots and the ends of the shoots to the strong outer bud.
In the future, pruning of climbing roses is carried out depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly from each other in the nature of flowering and shoot formation.
The first ones form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They don't bloom again. To replace faded shoots, the so-called main (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 restoration (replacement) shoots, which will bloom the next season. In this case, after flowering, the basal shoots are cut down to the base, like raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should consist of only 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.
If climbing roses belong to the group of repeat flowering roses, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots within three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut out after the fourth year to the ground. If many new strong recovery shoots form at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when roses are well cared for), then the main shoots are cut out as in the first group.
By the bushes with repeated flowering It is enough to have from 1 to 3 annual restoration shoots and from 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Repeatedly blooming roses It is recommended to prune in early spring. The point of pruning is to leave it on the bush limited quantity the strongest, youngest and longest branches. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they need to be trimmed.
It is important to remember that most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved for their entire length, only the very tops with underdeveloped buds must be removed. Therefore, such roses should not be pruned in the fall; the main pruning is carried out in early spring.
Proper pruning and careful care can provide almost continuous flowering roses in your garden.
Propagation of climbing roses
Climbing roses propagate well from summer and winter cuttings. Most easy way- this is a green cutting; most climbing roses give almost 100% rooting. Green cuttings It works best in June, during the first flowering.
The cuttings are planted in the substrate to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm.
Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 2 - 3 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45°) directly under the kidney, and the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. Lower leaves completely removed, and the rest cut in half. The cuttings are planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot, box or directly in the soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered on top glass jar or film and shade from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.
Cuttings in early spring also give good results. During the spring pruning of climbing roses, many cut shoots remain that can be successfully rooted. Plant and care for cuttings according to the above method.
Sheltering climbing roses for the winter
Sheltering climbing roses for the winter has its own characteristics. If to cover roses of other varieties it is enough to cover the bush with earth (it is important to preserve shoots 10 - 15 cm high), then for climbing roses it is necessary to preserve the shoots - the lashes completely.
Caring for roses in autumn. Preparing roses for winter begins long before the onset of frost. Already at the end of August it is necessary to stop watering and loosening the soil. At this time, it is no longer possible to feed the plants with nitrogen, but it is necessary to apply potassium fertilizers to strengthen the shoot tissue.
Be prepared for what winter shelter for climbing roses can last for several days, or even a whole week. A rose with thick, powerful shoots is unlikely to be laid on the ground in one day. This must be done at a positive temperature; in frost, the stems become fragile and break easily. Under no circumstances try to press each shoot separately to the ground. This can only be done by tying the entire bush into a bundle or two bundles and then spread them in different directions.
If, when tilting the bush, you feel that the stems may break, stop tilting and fix the bush in this position. Let him stand like that for a day or two, and then continue until you pin him to the ground.
It is necessary to cover roses only with the onset of frost.
A rose pinned to the ground should be covered with the onset of frost. Sometimes this has to be done even in the snow. In the southern regions there is enough shelter made of lutrasil. Just remember to cover the base of the bush with sand or earth. If your winters are cold, cover the bush with spruce branches and also cover it in several layers with covering material or roofing felt.
Supports for climbing roses
The possibilities for beautifully decorating your garden plot with climbing roses are quite varied: you can often see beautiful gazebos and terraces, balconies, grottoes and pavilions, arches and pergolas, decorated with roses, and there is no need to talk about how climbing roses transform the faceless walls of buildings.
Supports for climbing roses.
Climbing roses can decorate a home like no other flowering plant. One climbing rose is enough to transform a nondescript stone wall or emphasize the originality of a facade, or add romance to a previously ordinary entrance to a house.
The support for climbing roses can be either wooden or metal.
A tree can serve as a support for climbing roses.
On big tree climbing roses appear in all their lush splendor.
Support grids can be made from available materials: wooden planks, metal rods and even thick fishing line.