A great many proverbs and sayings glorify the benefits carrots. Since childhood, we have heard odes of praise to this vegetable: " “Carrots add blood,” “Eat carrots, and your eyes will see clearly.” Everyone heard this from their parents in childhood. loved by adults and children. It is one of the top ten vegetables on our table. You can’t prepare many dishes without it, so we try to prepare it for the winter. On par with potatoes, beets and cabbage carrots are one of the most important vegetables in the human diet. In winter, this is a real storehouse of vitamins. But often even skillful and diligent gardeners fail to grow a decent crop of carrots. Viral diseases of carrots, pests - there can be a great many reasons.
The occurrence of white rot or sclerotinia disease is preceded by the formation of the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum (Lib.) in the tissues of root crops. Crops not resistant to this disease: beans, carrots, cabbage and pumpkin crops. In places where vegetables are damaged, wounds form where the pest fungus begins to develop.
The mycelium covers the wounds with a fluffy white coating. As it grows, the mycelium spreads over the entire root crop. In places, white and black compactions appear. These are the sclera of a mushroom. They do not lose their viability for a long time both in the soil and in the air.
Having appeared among vegetables stored for the winter, the fungus infects all nearby root crops. Storage temperature does not matter, since fungal spores are active in the temperature range from 15 to 22°C. Soil contaminated with the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is the main source of the disease. Therefore, you need to avoid contaminated soils and not plant vegetables and root crops on them for 3-5 years.
Liming acidic soils and avoiding adding phosphorus to the soil helps in the fight against the disease. But applying potassium fertilizers will reduce the risk of carrot contamination. To disinfect uterine root crops from white rot in the fall (before storing them in basements), they are treated with TMTD, using 6-8 kg of the drug per 10 liters of water. This solution is enough to process 1 ton of queen cells.
Carrots intended for food are powdered with chalk dust. This facilitates storage until spring.
Important!When introduced into damp rooms, white rot spreads faster.
The cause of the disease is the soil fungus Rhizoctonia carotae Red. Felt rot or rhizoctonia blight of carrots develops quickly in cold winter storage. When this disease develops, more than 10% of stored carrots are affected.
The incubation period for the development of the disease is up to three months. Dry round spots up to 6 mm in diameter appear on carrots. These sores are covered with white mold - fungal mycelium. Small ulcers often merge into a common spot. Only the skin of the root crop is damaged. The fungus spores are transmitted through soil, but infection can come from old containers.
The fungus accumulates in the soil during long-term mono-plantings. Fungal spores do not survive when areas are sowed with green manure.
Important!The likelihood of disease is reduced significantly when storing carrots in polyethylene bags.
The disease is provoked by phytopathogenic bacteria of the genera Pseudomonas and Bacillus. Wet spots appear on carrots. Once in the basement, such carrots instantly rot, infecting neighboring root crops.
This type of bacterial rot develops on damaged carrots with broken or cut off ends. Bacteriosis of carrots develops quickly in the presence of warm air in the basement (5 - 30 ° C) and dampness.
Botryttis cinerea Fr is a provocateur of this disease. Gray rot does not happen that often. This disease is less common than black or white rot. Gray rot is likely to form on carrots if they are in close proximity to cabbage forks in storage. The root crop is covered with brown watery lesions. A mycelium grows on them and very quickly plaits the entire carrot.
As carrots rot, they become soft and have brown flesh. Carrots that are slightly frozen or stored in a cold basement are more often affected. With proper adherence to crop rotation and alternation of crops, with timely whitewashing and disinfection of cellars, and harvesting of root crops without mechanical damage, infection with gray rot can be avoided.
Phoma disease of root crops causes the development of the fungus Phoma rostrupii Sacc. This disease can affect and make up to half of all carrot plantings in the first year of cultivation unsuitable for storage. But the seed plants of carrots (carrots already in their second year of cultivation) are completely destroyed by it. Gray-brown elongated spots form on the stems of seed plants (in the forks of the stems).
As necrotic spots develop, they make the stem brittle and dry. In the first year of cultivation, Phoma on carrots manifests itself in the redness of the tops and the appearance of gray or brown spots on them. Then the affected tops dry out and die. Light yellow or red spots of various shapes appear on leaves infected with Phoma.
From the tops, the fungus grows throughout the tissues of the carrot. Infection with this fungus is caused by blossom end rot of carrots. If dry rot spreads quickly, the leaves of the carrots die. The tops may dry out completely or partially.
When stored in the basement, the infection of carrots with the fungus progresses, and gray spots or stripes appear on the root vegetables, slightly pressed into the carrots. Over time, in places where spots appear, soft tissues penetrated by mycelium rot. These lesions then dry out and the carrots become rotten. Damage on carrots looks like dry sores that are dark brown or brown in color.
Sometimes an infectious infection can lie dormant in a visually healthy root crop without developing. And only when planted in the ground the next year, such carrots die without creating full-fledged seed plants. If you cut the vegetable lengthwise, the middle will end up with brown rot.
If a diseased plant is not detected in time, it will become a source of infection and infect the entire plantation of seed plants. Before storing vegetables, basements are disinfected using a formaldehyde solution (1 part formaldehyde to 100 parts water) or copper sulfate (1 part copper sulfate to 45 parts water).
Additional fumigation of basements with sulfur is carried out (60 g of sulfur per 1 m3). Damaged root crops are carefully sorted and discarded. Storage is carried out no earlier than the established temperature of 4 - 5°C. Even slight sub-zero temperatures form rot and mold on carrots.
It is advisable to sanitize them before planting overwintered mother carrot plants. To do this, root vegetables are soaked in a container with a 5% suspension of foundationazole. Take 50% d.p. at the rate of 0.2-0.3 kg of the drug per 100 kg of carrots. Having overwintered on half-rotted plant remains, the fungus does not become any less dangerous and survives at temperatures above -25°C. Therefore, to take quarantine measures against the disease, all remains are burned.
Fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium increase resistance to damage by any fungal diseases. Unharvested carrots in the beds also increase the risk of rhizomes being affected by Phoma. During the growth of seed carrots, you need to treat it with 1% Bordeaux mixture at the rate of 0.6-0.8 l/m2. Treatment is carried out on the leaf of the plant.
Did you know? An increased dose of nitrogen fertilizers increases the risk of carrot disease.
The cause of black rot disease in carrots is the fungus A. Radicina. It contributes to the infection of the plant with leaf spot. Hot and humid weather with winds and frequent rains is the environment where this disease develops. In case of mass infection with brown spot, a third of the entire harvest can be lost.
Fungal spores are carried by wind and insects. Black rot of carrots appears as a result of heavy evening watering. When preparatory digging of beds for carrots, do not use fresh manure, since an excess of nitrogen also contributes to the disease of plants with black rot. Signs of the disease are similar to cercospora disease, and damage to Alternaria in winter during basement storage is very similar to white rot or fusarium disease.
This fungal disease of carrots develops rapidly at 85% air humidity, temperatures above 20°C and when in an environment with a slightly alkaline and neutral reaction. To combat the disease, many vegetable growers use the fungicides Falcon and Prosaro.
Carrots can develop brown leaf spot. The causative agent of this disease is the fungus A. dauci. The first signs that the garden bed is infected with fungal spores are given by carrot tops. In some places the leaves become dirty brown and brittle. After some time, the entire garden bed becomes infected. Carrot leaves are drying. It is the carrot rhizomes that suffer the most from the disease. Usually the affected area of the root crop itself is no more than 1 cm wide and almost to the middle of the root crop. There are several such spots on carrots. Infection with this fungus is the reason why carrots rot in the ground.
Even if in the fall the gardener carefully selects seemingly undamaged root vegetables for storage, carrots infected with the fungus are poorly stored in the cellar. During winter storage, dark, rotten spots appear on it and it simply rots.
How to deal with the disease:
It is imperative to observe crop rotation and return carrots to this bed no earlier than after four years. Before sowing, carrot seeds are disinfected in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate and water. After processing, rinse the seeds under clean cold water. This treatment of carrots destroys the fungal spores in the seeds.
Another good way to disinfect seeds is to soak them in hot water (temperature no higher than 50°C). We put the seeds in a gauze bundle and fill it with hot water. After 10 minutes, transfer the bundle with seeds to a container with cold water. As soon as the first signs that the carrots are sick appear outwardly, we take urgent measures. It is best to spray carrots with Immunocytophyte or Epin-extra. The drug "Evin" is also excellent.
Plants that are fertilized in a timely manner may not get sick at all, as they have a high immunity to diseases. Fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers will prevent the carrots from getting sick and increase the yield. Plants should never be left for seed in an infected bed.
The remains of diseased plants (tops and rhizomes) must be burned, since the fungal pathogen remains in them even during decomposition. It is undesirable to use such contaminated organic matter for compost.
Seeds are taken only from absolutely healthy plants. To avoid an outbreak of the disease in rainy and damp summers, the rows are loosened several times. This dries out the soil.
Reasons for the formation of ugly carrot roots:
- Ugly carrots with complete or partial deformation of the roots can grow on soil into which unrotted manure was added before plowing. Excess nitrogen leads to carrots splitting into three to five separate roots with a common top and cracking. Cracked carrots are not suitable for storage and begin to rot very quickly.
- Densely sown carrot seeds. After the first shoots and subsequent weeding, when 3-4 full leaves appear on the plant, the seedlings must be thinned. If this is not done, the carrots will not have room to grow and, seeking it, the carrots grow crookedly. When very crowded, sometimes neighboring plants simply intertwine with each other. Such carrots are theoretically edible, but in practice they are mostly thrown away or used as animal feed. These carrots cannot be peeled for eating. The correct sowing scheme for carrots: sowing to a depth of at least 2 cm and subsequent thinning with a distance of 3 - 4 cm between plants.
- If the plowing (digging) of the bed was not deep enough, then when the carrots reach the hard layer of soil, they become distorted. Loose soil is vital for root crops.
- Carrots do not like to be sown in lowlands with high soil moisture. In such conditions, fungal spores develop very quickly and infect root crops, further developing and progressing in them. If your garden is located in a lowland, weekly weeding of the rows is recommended. This will help dry out the soil.
- An invasion of nematodes into a carrot bed can leave you without a harvest. Nematodes are worm-like pests. They live in the soil and damage all root crops, feeding on their pulp. The size of the worm is up to 1 mm. But their huge number makes contaminated soil unsuitable for use.
Did you know?An excellent method of controlling nematodes is to sow the bed with marigolds. Marigold flowers are known by their popular name - Chernobryvtsy. In a bed sown with marigolds, the nematode dies. And next year you can sow it again with healthy vegetables.
Powdery mildew is a real scourge of our gardens. This disease can be caused by two types of fungi: Erysiphe umbelliferarum f.dauci and Leveillula umbelliferarum 1. dauci. Powdery mildew destroys cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, carrots and black and white currant bushes.
The first signs of the onset of the disease: yellow spots on carrot tops and leaves of shrubs and pumpkins. On the lower side of the leaves, sheltered from the sun, there is a slightly fluffy mycelium. The spots grow within 3 to 7 days; the growth of the fungus causes the leaves affected by the disease to die.
In root crops, the death of a leaf does not cause the death of the rhizome, but it grows underdeveloped and ugly. Powdery mildew also affects carrot seeds. They become covered with a white coating of mycelium, the stems dry out without forming seeds in the testes.
The development of powdery mildew disease is preceded by high air humidity. It can be caused by frequent leaf watering of plantings. One-time preventive treatments with fungicides are desirable even before the outbreak of the disease. The first such treatment is carried out two weeks after emergence.
Diseased plants are pollinated with ash or sulfur crushed into dust. The plantings are treated with Bordeaux mixture and various fungicides. Repeat the treatments twice at intervals of a week. If the fungus has spread on the carrots, plants with poor resistance to powdery mildew should not be planted in this bed next year.
Important! All remains of affected plants are burned and seeds are not collected from infected seed plants.
The causative agent of the disease is the pathogenic fungus Cercospora carotae. This disease occurs in swampy lowlands or spreads rapidly during rainy summers. At the beginning and end of July, the tops of plants are affected by small rusty spots, in the center of the affected area there is a lighter center.
The leaves of diseased carrots begin to curl. Gradually, the plant, oppressed by the development of fungal spores, loses leaves, and root crops stop growing. Fungus spores overwinter well on plant debris and in seeds.
Complete burning of infected plants is recommended. Deep plowing of the soil with soil rotation and the selection of varieties less susceptible to cercospora blight help in the fight against the disease. Using the fungicides "Quadris", "Bravo" or the drugs "Immunocytophyte", "Trichodermin", "Glyokladin" on vegetating carrots, disinfecting seeds and aerating wet areas of the field - all this will help avoid diseases. Write in the comments what questions you have not received. answer, we will definitely respond!
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Yes, it happens that carrots look very good, juicy, but taste bitter. Most likely, before storing, you did not pay attention to the fact that during growth the tops of the root crops were above the ground and turned green in the light. That is why one of the most important agricultural techniques is loosening and hilling the heads of root crops. Well, if you haven’t noticed it, then before storing it, the green heads need to be cut off and let them sit. After the cut areas have hardened, you need to treat them with a garlic solution and store them. The alkaloid solanite will stop spreading deep into the carrots and the bitterness will disappear.
What varieties of carrots do not crack?
As a rule, it is not the variety that is to blame. To get even carrot roots, you need to water them moderately but regularly. Otherwise, with excessive watering, the core quickly thickens and the root crop of any variety cracks. In addition, if ripe carrots are left in the soil for a long time during periods of cold, wet weather, long cracks may appear on the roots.
Is sowing carrots in winter beneficial?
To have an earlier harvest, many gardeners plant carrots before winter. To do this, the beds are prepared in the fall and grooves are cut. After the first frost, seeds are sown, covered with earth and humus, and rolled. The following varieties are suitable for sowing before winter: Nantes-4, Chantenay, Moskovskaya Zimnyaya, Losinoostrovkaya. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the bed must be covered with film. When single shoots appear, the film is removed. But we must keep in mind that carrots planted before winter do not store well. It is only for summer use.
How to get carrot seeds yourself?
Carrots are a biennial crop. Two years pass from seed to seed. Those carrots that you plant to get their seeds require special attention. The sowing time is selected so that the queen cells do not outgrow. The best age of the uterine root crop is 100-110 days. The agricultural technology for growing mother root crops is the same as carrots for root crops.
Harvesting of mother root crops begins in late September-early October. They are carefully dug up and laid out on the garden bed. To obtain seeds, completely healthy root crops are selected, of a typical shape for the variety, weighing 80-120 g. Their leaves are cut off, leaving petioles 1-1.5 cm long. When harvesting, the uterine root crops should not be allowed to wither.
They are stored in a basement or cellar in damp sand, the temperature there is maintained within 0 ... + 2 degrees, the relative humidity is 85–90 percent.
In the spring, the best, healthiest root crops with an intense orange color of the flesh are selected for sowing. In order to improve seed ripening, queen cells are grown. To do this, queen cells are grown in boxes in 2-3 weeks. Growing continues until the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm. Planting of the grown root crops is carried out carefully, protecting the roots from breaking and drying out.
Planted in the ground early. The root crop is pressed tightly with earth, the head is sprinkled with a layer of soil of 2-3 cm. And then - loosening, fertilizing, watering, weed and pest control.
To improve seed setting, additional pollination is used. For these purposes, during mass flowering in the morning and evening in dry weather, the seed plants are slightly shaken. All late formed stems are cut off. Cleaning begins when the umbrellas are browned. Umbrellas are cut selectively, as they ripen, in two or three steps and laid out for ripening in a dry, ventilated room. The seeds of dried umbrellas are easily separated.
Carrot seeds remain viable for 3-4 years.
Increasingly, they are resorting to another method of storing queen cells. They are not dug up, but left in the ground for the winter. For successful overwintering of queen cells, the bed is covered with peat, spruce branches, or fallen leaves. After overwintering root crops in the soil (or you can leave the uterine roots of parsley and turnips), the seeds of these crops turn out to be of higher quality.
Yes, it is very important when growing carrot seeds to avoid cross-pollination with parsley (plant them further away). Pale yellow and unsweetened root vegetables grow from pollinated seeds.
What is the best way to store carrots?
As you know, carrots are harvested before the slightest frost. They remove it by pulling it out by the tops or digging up the root crops with a pitchfork. It is important to be careful not to damage them. Then the tops are cut off, leaving 2.5 cm on the root. Some collected carrots are placed in boxes with straw, dry leaves or wet sand and transferred to a room with an air temperature just above zero. And high humidity – ideally 95 percent. Under these conditions, carrots can be stored for five months.
However, the most serious problem in storing carrots is the appearance of diseases in damaged root crops. Cut or cracked root vegetables should not be stored.
Some gardeners disinfect them with garlic before storing carrots. Before they start digging carrots, they prepare a garlic solution - pass the garlic through a meat grinder and take one and a half liters of water per glass of the minced garlic. Then the carrots are cut from the tops to the shoulders; if they are dirty, they are washed well and each carrot is dipped in a garlic solution. Then dry under a canopy, but not in the sun, for about 20-30 minutes. And only after that they put the carrots in prepared clean boxes, pollinating them with crushed chalk and sprinkling them with dry onion peels.
A good result is obtained by dipping the carrots before storing them in a thick clay mash like sour cream.
Is it possible to store carrots on racks?
Having dug up the root vegetables, you need to let them dry a little in the wild and in storage. There is no consensus on how best to stack carrots. Some keep them in a pile layered with wet sand, others pour them into a box and think that this is enough, others keep the ruddy root vegetables in an untied plastic bag. And some people lay out carrots in no more than two layers on specially arranged shelves, and this way the root vegetables are stored perfectly in the cellar.
What is a rack? Bricks placed on edge serve as support for the lower shelf. It is made from transverse boards and longitudinal strips. This is how they lay out tier by tier, up to six shelves up. In summer, the rack must be disassembled, the boards and planks removed from the cellar and dried in the sun.
What to do with small root vegetables?
Carrots, for example, can be salted. To do this, wash the rejected root crops with a brush, cut off the roots and tops. Then put in an enamel bowl, cover with a mixture of spicy herbs: parsley, dill, coriander, celery, currant and cherry leaves, horseradish; season with crushed garlic cloves, and add 1-2 hot peppers to all this. You can add small beets to the carrots. Place one part of greens on three parts of root vegetables.
Pour brine over carrots. It is prepared according to this recipe: take a tablespoon of salt (preferably coarsely ground) for 1 liter of boiling water. Close the container with a lid. When the brine has cooled, add more fresh herbs on top and put pressure on it. Store the pickles in a warm room for a week or a week and a half, then put them in the basement or cellar. After a month, the pickled carrots are ready to eat.
What do you need to know before preparing dishes from and with carrots?
You can cure a sore throat with carrot juice: gargle with this mixture several times a day - mix 100 ml of fresh carrot juice with 1 tbsp. a spoonful of honey, then dilute in half with boiled water
Carrots with thick, short roots are the most juicy. Such carrots make good juice; they are put in salads, used raw as a side dish, and also pickled. Carrots of other varieties require prolonged heat treatment. Therefore, it is recommended to stew it, boil it, and prepare casseroles, cutlets, and puddings from it.
To prevent carrots from darkening, the skin must be removed very thinly with a sharp knife.
Soup with carrots always turns out beautiful: carotene colors the fat in which the carrots are fried in orange or amber tones.
Peeled carrots wilt quickly. You can’t keep it in water: vitamin C is destroyed and mineral salts are lost. It is better to store peeled carrots in a container without water, covering the top with a clean damp cloth, for no more than 2-3 hours, of course.
Some vitamins are destroyed by heat treatment. When cooking carrots, place them in water that has previously been brought to a boil: vitamin C will be better preserved in boiling water.
Vitamins are especially destroyed if carrots are cooked in an open container. Therefore, be sure to cover the pan in which vegetables are boiled or stewed. It is also important that there is as little free space as possible under the closed lid.
Overcooked carrots are not only less tasty, but also less nutritious and less healthy.
A green carrot head is always bitter; be sure to cut it off when processing.
If you use dried carrots, scald them with boiling water and pour warm water for one to two hours to allow the carrots to swell. Boil carrots in the same water in which they were soaked so that the loss of nutrients is minimal.
And two recipes for filling...
Have you ever tried sweet carrot seasoning for tea? No? Then mix the carrots, grated on a coarse grater, with jam, marmalade or marmalade. If they are not at all acidic, add lemon juice to taste. Mix the mixture thoroughly and serve with tea. This seasoning is not only tasty, but also relatively low in calories.
And the carrot mixture for sandwiches will increase your appetite. And they make it like this: 100 g carrots, 50 g celery, 50 g horseradish, 2 tbsp. spoons of crushed walnuts, 1 tbsp. spoon of butter, mix everything and use as intended.
Main diseases of carrots during storageOf the diseases, the greatest damage to carrots during winter storage is caused by fomoz, white and black rot. They are distributed almost everywhere.
Fomoz, or dry rot, is a dangerous fungal disease that affects carrot plants during their growth, and root crops during storage. This disease affects almost all varieties of carrots.
The disease usually begins to appear as dry rot on the tops of root crops. At the end of the season, elongated, grayish-brown spots with black dots in the center appear on the stems, petioles and veins of the leaves. Later, such spots appear on the top of the root crops.
During winter storage of carrots, the number of spots increases, and transverse dark stripes appear. The pulp becomes rotten, and voids appear under the spots.
The spread of the disease is highly dependent on weather conditions. Carrots are most affected by Phoma in years with increased rainfall and moderate temperatures. The source of infection is contaminated seeds, root crops, and post-harvest residues. Sowing with contaminated seeds leads to significant loss of seedlings.
Control measures.
Deep digging of the soil and destruction of plant residues in the fall; liming of acidic soils; compliance with garden crop rotation.
Pre-sowing treatment of carrot seeds. To do this, they must be heated in water for 15 minutes at a temperature of 52...53 oC, strictly monitoring it with a thermometer. If necessary, add hot water. And immediately after warming up, the seeds should be immersed in cold water for 2-3 minutes.
Early sowing on light soils, timely destruction of weeds and thinning of seedlings.
Sowing relatively disease-resistant varieties - Moskovskaya Zimnyaya, Nantskaya 4, Supernant, etc.
When signs of disease appear, treat carrot crops with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture in the third decade of August, i.e. a month before harvesting root crops; feeding plants with potassium sulfate (1.5 tablespoons of fertilizer per 10 liters of water), consuming the solution at the rate of 5 liters per 1 m2.
Sorting carrots and dusting them with chalk powder or sifted ash when storing them, quickly consuming all damaged root vegetables; correct storage mode (temperature about 0...1 oC, relative humidity 90%).
When the temperature drops to –2 °C, the tissues of root crops are damaged and become sick when thawed, and at temperatures above 3 °C, root crops sprout and are damaged by white rot.
During winter storage of diseased root crops, fungal spores remain viable for 3 years in the sand, on the floor and on the walls of the vegetable storehouse, unless the basement is disinfected in the spring immediately after storing root crops and before storing vegetables there for winter storage.
White rot, or sclerotinia, is one of the most harmful diseases that affects many vegetables, but most severely carrots and parsley. During the growing season and when harvesting carrots, it rarely affects root crops, and during winter storage this disease often causes very large losses. The source of infection is the soil in which the mycelium lives, as well as plant debris.
First of all, carrots with mechanical damage, frozen ones, grown on heavily moist soils, and also with abundant application of nitrogen fertilizers to the soil are affected.
The rapid spread of the disease is facilitated by excess moisture in the soil during the growing season and its storage at high humidity and elevated air temperatures in the basement. White rot usually develops in patches and easily passes from diseased to healthy root crops.
First, a white fluffy coating (fungal mycelium) appears on the surface of the root crops, then in some places it thickens and forms blackened sclerotia of various sizes and droplets of liquid that shine in the light. Affected root crops soften and mucus without changing the color of the tissue. At the same time, it does not have an unpleasant odor.
White rot mycelium in the form of cotton wool-like flakes with sclerotia can appear on containers and walls.
Control measures.
First of all, this is the observance of garden crop rotation with the return of carrots to their original place no earlier than after 3-5 years; liming of acidic soils; introducing increased doses of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers into the soil, deep autumn digging of the soil.
Carrot beds should not be placed on heavy clay or acidic soils.
Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers to the soil reduces the resistance of root crops to diseases and delays its ripening time. Carrots will hurt less and be stored better if you use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
As far as possible, harvest root crops later, which avoids storing them in warm weather at the end of September.
Preparing the storage facility for harvesting in advance. The basement should be disinfected with a bleach solution, and wooden structures should be whitened with lime milk (1 kg of lime per 10 liters of water).
Storing only healthy root vegetables, thoroughly dusting them with chalk powder (1 tbsp per 1 kg of carrots) or sifted ash.
Compliance with the storage regime for root crops, as indicated in the section on Phoma.
Black rot is a dangerous fungal disease. It is rarely observed in garden beds, only in years with warm, rainy autumns. In adult plants, single leaves are affected, which turn yellow, curl and die.
And on root crops, the disease, as a rule, appears only 15-20 days after storage. Dry, dark, slightly depressed spots form on the side of the carrot or on the top. On a section, the affected tissue has a jet-black color. These spots are sharply demarcated from healthy tissue.
Since the fungus that causes black rot is heat-loving, at low storage temperatures its development is very slow, and the rotten root crop remains hard for a long time.
The varieties Konservnaya, Nantskaya 4, Supernant, Shantanay 2461 and others have increased resistance to the disease. Measures to prevent the disease are the same as for Phomasis.
V. Shafransky
Newspaper "GARDENER" No. 2, 2010.
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Fedor Simakhin 08/19/2014 | 1486
Carrot roots are affected by various diseases during storage. How to protect the crop from diseases? Find out from the article.
During storage, carrots are affected by black, white, gray and wet rot.
Alternaria (black rot)
The disease manifests itself already in the first week after storage. A rotten root remains hard, but gray-green mold forms on it. Infection of root crops occurs through wounds and scratches caused during harvesting and transportation of carrots.
In addition, dry, dark, slightly depressed spots appear on root vegetables. In the affected areas, coal-black tissue appears. The source of infection can be infected seeds that were collected from affected plants, as well as plant debris, soil in which the pathogen penetrates into the storage. The infection is also transmitted by air or by contact of root crops during storage.
Fomoz (dry rot)
Root crops are affected in the fall: slightly depressed dark brown spots or small black dots appear on them. As a result, the affected tissue is destroyed, becomes rotten, and voids appear under the spots, which are later filled by white mycelium. Infection occurs through seeds, roots and fruit remains.
The source of infection is affected root crops, planted seeds, and infected seeds. Spores of the infectious agent are carried by raindrops, wind, and carrot fly larvae. High humidity and air temperature of 21-25˚C contribute to the massive development of the disease.
Rhizoctonia (felt rot)
Affects root crops of carrots, beets, and parsley. Gray-lead spots appear on root crops, which are later covered with a brown felt coating. Most often, the disease develops on acidic, moist soils with insufficient aeration. When storing root crops, the development of felt rot progresses.
White rot
The disease can cause massive wet rotting of root crops during storage. A white, cottony coating first forms on the surface of the roots. The affected root tissue softens and forms a wet mass. Root crops with mechanical damage are most susceptible to white rot.
Gray rot
The affected root tissue softens and turns brown. Then the root crop is covered with gray-green sporulation with small black spots. Within a few days, the root crop rots, becomes slimy, and emits an unpleasant odor.
Control measures
- Follow crop rotation and grow carrots after the best predecessors (tomatoes, potatoes, onions, beans, cabbage, peas).
- Harvest carrots in dry weather (the tops should be cut short, without touching the head, and folded separately to prevent contact with the root crops.
- Store only healthy root vegetables.
- Carry out thermal disinfection of seeds at a temperature of 45-50˚C for 30 minutes.
- Dry root vegetables that were collected in wet weather before storing them.
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