Interior decoration of an unheated cottage is one of the most difficult areas of modern construction. This is explained by the fact that in terms of atmosphere and technical characteristics, the dacha is more likely to be a technical room that does not require seasonal heating, but at the same time, the interior design should be as close as possible to a standard living space.
An unheated room is subject to strong seasonal changes in temperature and humidity, which should be taken into account when choosing options for decorating the inside of a country house. If you choose materials based solely on external data, then the lack of heating will lead to the finishing quickly losing its original appearance, and after several seasons it will become completely unusable.
In this article we will look at the most optimal materials and technologies by which the interior decoration of a country house is carried out with our own hands.
Material selection
The main factor that you should pay attention to when choosing a material for finishing a summer house is the lack of heating - in the summer the atmosphere inside the room will be warm, and in winter it will drop below zero. Accordingly, the first and most important parameter is the frost-resistant structure of the material, which will not deform under the influence of frost.
The second negative factor is increased humidity, which falls on the walls in the form of condensation. If you visit your dacha in winter and periodically turn on the heating, then this phenomenon is inevitable, since the air warms up much faster than the walls, which in turn causes condensation to form. The finish becomes saturated with dampness and after drying begins to deform.
The most optimal solution to this problem would be to choose a moisture-resistant material or maintain a stable temperature, which is only possible if you do not visit the dacha in the winter.
Note! If for some reason there is high humidity (dampness) in the room, then the lack of heating will not solve this problem. In this case, the use of moisture-resistant materials is mandatory.
There are several materials that are most optimal for this purpose, with which the interior decoration of a dacha is carried out, among which the following should be noted.
Plaster
Plaster is the most traditional, which is successfully used to this day. Despite its relatively rough texture, it looks good in combination with light topcoats. The main components for plaster are cement and sand, which are mixed in different proportions, depending on the composition of the polymer additives.
Sand-cement plaster is not afraid of frost and temperature changes, which makes it indispensable in unheated rooms. No matter what climatic conditions develop in your absence, the coating will retain its original appearance. Also, the reliability of the plaster coating is explained by its structure - concrete is one of the most durable building materials today.
The instructions for installing the panels are not complicated, but standard recommendations often do not take into account the specifics of the room.
Mandatory conditions for installing PVC lining in an unheated room are:
- When covering an unheated cottage, metal or plastic profiles should be used for the frame - wooden beams can swell and deform when exposed to moisture. After warming, the entire structure may become distorted, since the panels lie directly on the supporting frame;
- Since temperature changes will be constant, it is necessary to have expansion joints between the sheathed surface and the wall/internal corner/floor/ceiling. If the panels are large enough, then it is also necessary to provide a compensation gap between them;
Bottom line
An individual approach to the question “How to decorate the inside of a country house?” guarantees the durability and resistance of the future coating. Since not all materials are suitable for this purpose, this will save the vases from unnecessary costs that will be associated with subsequent alterations. You can get more information on this topic by watching the video in this article.
PVC panels are a practical and durable material, and therefore are widely used in. They are suitable for any room, and the variety of textures, shapes and colors allows you to make the interior not just cozy, but also very stylish. The fastening technology is quite simple, so decorating walls with plastic panels is an excellent option for a novice craftsman.
The range of plastic panels is so large that it is very difficult for an inexperienced buyer to understand. To avoid mistakes, you should familiarize yourself in advance with the characteristics of this material and its varieties. You should only consider certified material, because low-quality panels do not have the required strength and quickly fade.
The main advantages of plastic panels:
The disadvantage of this material is its low impact resistance, so the panels should be handled with care during transportation and installation. Depending on the coating, the panels are divided into matte and glossy, and according to the technology of applying the pattern - into film and printed.
Standard sizes:
- width from 200 to 350 mm;
- length from 2700 to 3000 mm;
- thickness from 8 to 10 mm.
The strength of the material depends not only on the thickness of the walls, but also on the number of stiffeners located inside the panel. To check how durable the material is, you need to press your finger on the surface - if the plastic bends, the panel will not last long.
Besides, You should not buy panels if:
Comparative table of characteristics of PVC panels (for comparison, plastic panels with a flexo printing coating type, 0.25 m wide and 3 m long are taken)
| Indicator/panel | PVC panel TM Decomax | Average Chinese panel | Average European panel |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front surface thickness, mm | 2,5 | 1,5 | 2,0 |
| Number of stiffeners, pcs. | 29 | 20 | 29 |
| Condition of the stiffeners | smooth, without deformation | smooth, there are minor deformations | smooth, without deformation |
| PVC panel weight, kg/sq.m | 2,2 | 1,7 | 2,0 |
| Appearance | The coating is smooth, but with obvious gaps in the stiffening ribs, there are slight deformations | The coating is smooth, without the appearance of stiffening ribs | |
| Raw materials | after slight pressure the panel becomes deformed, which proves the high chalk content | after slight pressing, the panel returns to its original appearance, which indicates a low chalk content |
Preparatory stage
Preliminary calculations
You need to start by calculating the amount of finishing material so that you don’t have to overpay or go to the store for an additional batch. The panels can be mounted both vertically and horizontally, depending on the wishes of the apartment owners. When mounting vertically, the number of panels is calculated as follows: measure the length of the perimeter of the room, subtract the width of the openings and divide by the width of one panel. To the resulting number add 2-3 lamellas in reserve.
For horizontal installation, measure the area of the room minus door and window openings and divide by the area of one panel. Here the margin should be at least 10%, since the consumption of material for trimming increases. Additionally, you need to calculate the number of slats for the sheathing and fasteners. First, the height of the walls is divided by the sheathing pitch, which is usually 0.5 m, and multiplied by the perimeter of the room. The resulting number indicates the length of the slats in linear meters. By measuring the height of the corners and multiplying it by their number, we obtain the total footage of the corner profiles; to this number you need to add the perimeter of window and door openings.
Methods for attaching lamellas
There are three ways to secure the panels to the wall - using glue, self-tapping screws and clamps. The first method is suitable for very even and smooth walls; glue is used special for PVC, universal “Moment-installation” or “liquid nails”.
The use of this method simplifies and reduces the cost of the installation process, since there is no need to attach the sheathing. Disadvantages: it is impossible to replace a damaged panel; during subsequent repairs it is difficult to remove the covering from the wall.
Fastening with self-tapping screws is a reliable and convenient option that does not require a perfectly flat surface. To screw in the screws, you definitely need a screwdriver, otherwise the installation process will take a long time. Disadvantages of this method: a wooden frame is better suited for self-tapping screws, so additional time is spent cutting the timber and processing it
The third option is the most optimal. The clamps are conveniently and quickly attached to the sheathing and securely fix the panels to the wall. The lathing is mounted from a metal profile, assembly of the covering is carried out effortlessly. A damaged lamella can be easily replaced with a new one; dismantling the finish also does not take much time.
Tools and necessary materials
During the work, everything should be at hand, so materials and tools for installation are prepared in advance. You will need:
- fine-toothed hacksaw;
- pencil and tape measure;
- level;
- square;
- plastic panels;
- slats or plastic profile;
- dowel-nails, screws or clamps;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- antiseptic composition;
- sealant;
- ceiling plinth.
Preparing the walls
Before covering the walls with panels, you need to clear the old coating, seal every single crack, noticeable defects and treat the surface with an antifungal agent. Thanks to this, dust will not accumulate under the plastic and mold will not develop, which negatively affects the microclimate in the room. If the installation will be carried out on a frame, it is not necessary to additionally level the surface.
Installation of plastic panels
Step 1. Marking the walls
The sheathing should be fastened strictly according to the level, this will help to avoid distortions. In order not to measure out each rail, you should make markings on the walls. The bottom row of the sheathing should be located 1-2 cm above the floor, so mark a point at this height on the wall with a pencil, and then use a level to draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter. Exactly the same line is drawn under the ceiling or along the edge of the trim if the walls are not sheathed to the full height. Next, measure 40-50 cm upward from the bottom line, place a beacon, and so on until the very top. Strictly parallel lines are drawn through the beacons along the perimeter of the walls. The marking is ready.
The panels must be attached to the sheathing perpendicularly, so the horizontal frame is sheathed vertically, and vice versa. To make markings for vertical sheathing, the first line is drawn in the corner from ceiling to floor using a plumb line. Next, mark the second corner, and then draw the remaining lines in increments of 50 cm.
Step 2. Installation of the sheathing
If wood is used for the sheathing, all slats must be primed with an antiseptic agent in advance. Along the marking lines, holes for dowels are drilled with a hammer drill at a distance of 50 cm, then slats are applied, leveled horizontally and secured to the wall. Where the walls are uneven, wooden wedges are placed under the sheathing. If wiring runs along the wall, it must be hidden under the trim. To do this, take measurements, drill holes in the wall and secure the wires with clamps so that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the sheathing.
Step 3. Attaching the slats
The first lamella is installed in the far corner from the entrance, which is considered the most noticeable.
Take measurements and, if necessary, cut the panel to length with a hacksaw. One edge of the panel is inserted into the side molding, applied to the corner and secured to the sheathing from the back.
The second lamella is inserted into the mounting groove of the first, the joints are pressed tightly and fixed to the frame slats.
To achieve maximum sealing of the joints, the side edges are lightly coated with silicone before insertion. All subsequent elements are mounted in exactly the same way.
Holes are cut out in the panels for switches and sockets with a sharp knife, and after installation, these areas are covered with plastic boxes. The last lamella most often requires cutting in width, so first try it on the wall, mark the cutting line with a pencil and cut off the excess with a hacksaw.
Step 4. Installing moldings
After installing all the elements, the surface should look monolithic and smooth, without gaps at the seams and around the perimeter. To do this, all corners, joints and connections are covered with special plastic moldings. Their design allows you to carefully insert the edges of the panels on both sides, making the corners look much more attractive.
Finally, decorative molding is installed around the perimeter of the ceiling, and plastic molding is attached around the perimeter of the floor. At this point, finishing the walls with PVC panels is considered complete. With careful use, the panels do not lose their attractiveness for a long time and do not require repairs.
Video - Wall decoration with plastic panels
A little more than 20 years have passed since plastic wall panels began to be used for interior decoration. They very quickly won the love of consumers due to their excellent properties and low price. They are easy and quick to install.
They have become a good alternative to traditional finishing materials: paints, wallpaper, ceramic tiles. The main thing is that you do not need to prepare an ideal surface for them, unlike other finishing materials. They are used for finishing walls and ceilings
The first plastic panels were quite heavy and expensive to produce. After the discovery in Germany of the method of free foaming of polyvinyl chloride, a new material appeared, which at a low cost has many advantages:
True, along with numerous advantages there are also disadvantages:
- although the material is fire-resistant, when heated it can release toxic substances harmful to human health, so you should not install highly heated objects near the panels;
- the material is unstable to mechanical stress, so it is better not to use it for finishing slopes and in places where significant mechanical load is possible;
- When exposed to direct sunlight, the material fades and loses color, but there is a material with special additives that is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.
Application and varieties
The scope of application of PVC panels for walls is very wide. They can be used for exterior and interior decoration. They are used for finishing the facades of both private houses and industrial buildings. Plastic lining is superior to siding in that there are different types of it with imitation of different materials, while it has greater strength.
Plastic is well suited for interior lining. They are used to line walls in damp rooms, kitchens, balconies, and hallways.
It is convenient to line bathrooms with PVC panels, since they are not afraid of rodents and insects, and mold and mildew do not form on them.
PVC panels are used for finishing ceilings, as they help hide unevenness and defects in their surface, and also allow for spot lighting by installing lamps in pre-prepared holes in the panels. Using panels you can hide electrical wiring and pipes of various communications.
Thanks to the lightness and simplicity of installation, it is possible to cover walls with PVC panels in a very short time. There are the following types of cladding: lining, panels, tiles and sheets. The thickness of the panels is divided into two types: 5 mm and 8,9,10 mm. For the second subtype, moldings of the same size are used.
The lining consists of stacked slatted strips three meters long, 10 cm wide, less commonly 12.5 cm wide. The joining of the strips is carried out using a tongue-and-groove pattern.
The most popular is the “European” one, equipped with a wide lock; the “polka” with a narrow lock is less popular. The lining is fastened either directly to the wall or to the sheathing using fastening brackets. Mostly the lining is made in white.
Plastic panels have lengths of 260, 270 and 300 centimeters and widths from 15 to 50 centimeters, but the most common size is 25 centimeters.
They can be painted, varnished or thermally coated. They are distinguished from lining by an invisible seam after assembly.
The tile panels are shaped like squares. Their fastening is carried out similarly to slatted ones; with their help, walls can be decorated with mosaics or patterns. The tiles have sizes from 30x30 cm to 98 by 98 cm.
Sheet panels are sometimes called PVC boards. They look like a large piece of hardboard, but have a different pattern.
The sheets are fastened to the walls during installation using glue and nails. During installation, the joints are closed using special slats or sealed with sealant.
The width of the sheets can be from 80 to 203 cm, and the length - from 150 to 405 cm. Sheets made of foamed PVC have an impact-resistant and smooth top layer.
PVC panels are also divided into several types according to their coating. They can be:
- matte, on which no coating was applied;
- glossy, which are coated with a layer of varnish for shine;
- with a pattern applied using thermal film;
- with an image printed using offset printing;
- colored at the initial stage of production by adding dye to the mass.
We make the right choice and installation features
You need to buy finishing material for walls all at once and from one batch so that they do not differ in shade. When purchasing, you need to check the quality of the surface: it should not have chips, cracks, dents or other defects. The seams must be of high quality; to check them, you need to connect the strips, and they must be smooth and unnoticeable.
The strength of the panels depends on the number of stiffeners; the more there are, the stronger they are.
If the material is of high quality, then with slight pressure there will be no cracks on it.
When calculating the required amount of material, it is necessary to take into account that the material is sold in strips, sheets or squares, therefore it is necessary to count their quantity, and not based on the square footage of the room.
To avoid unnecessary expenses, before purchasing, you should find out the exact dimensions of the rooms being sheathed. In order to perform high-quality installation, before installing the panels, they must be kept in the room where they will be installed.
This will make it possible to avoid gaps during installation. Polyvinyl chloride materials increase in size as the temperature increases; for example, a three-meter panel increases by 1 cm if the temperature increases from -10 to 40 degrees. This also applies to width.
When the temperature in balconies, bathrooms and kitchens drops, the panels change their size and gaps appear between them.
As the temperature increases, the cracks disappear. To achieve a monolithic surface, it is better to do installation at a temperature slightly lower than that usually maintained in a given room.
The popularity of suspended ceilings is growing every year. This is due to the possibility of quick installation without dust and a long service life. But this type of finishing is used, as a rule, in city houses and apartments, where a constant temperature is maintained and people are present every day. Therefore, it is not clear how such a coating will behave in buildings for seasonal use, where heating is either not provided or is turned on periodically. Let's try to understand this issue. To find out whether it is possible to make a suspended ceiling in an unheated country house, let’s consider the properties of this coating.
Types of materials used
There are vinyl and fabric fabrics. These are the materials that manufacturers of suspended ceilings offer today, and the differences between them are very significant.
Vinyl canvas- This is a thin PVC film with a thickness of 0.15-0.37 mm, produced in rolls with a width of 1.3 to 5 meters. Main qualities of vinyl ceilings:
- harmlessness to humans and the environment;
- fire safety - PVC film does not support combustion, the material melts but does not ignite;
- biological resistance - mold does not form on the surface of the canvas;
- elasticity – when heated, vinyl can stretch up to 220%;
- strength – withstands loads up to 17 MPa;
- water resistance - does not allow moisture to pass through.
Manufacturers offer glossy, matte and satin fabrics in a huge number of shades. Vinyl film has bright colors, allows you to combine materials and apply photo printing, which gives endless possibilities for use in different interior styles.
Due to its strength and water resistance, a PVC ceiling can hold up to 100 liters of liquid for a long time in the event of flooding or a roof leak. Subsequently, the water is easily drained and the fabric is re-stretched. For rooms with high humidity, PVC is the most suitable option.
Among the shortcomings it is worth noting air tightness. In a room with insufficient ventilation, the “greenhouse effect” appears - humidity increases and it becomes stuffy. Also, the stretched fabric can be easily damaged by a sharp object. Even “shooting” a champagne cork can lead to dire consequences. Therefore, the film requires especially careful handling.
Fabric ceiling– is a synthetic polyester fabric impregnated with polyurethane, 0.12 mm thick, sold in rolls from 3.1 to 5.1 m wide. Main properties of the material:
- environmental friendliness - does not contain or emit harmful chemical compounds; thanks to special perforation, the polyester ceiling is able to “breathe”, which is important for creating a comfortable microclimate in the room;
- thermal resistance – the material can withstand a wide range of temperatures (from –40 °C to +80 °C) without losing its properties;
- relative elasticity - can stretch up to 120%, but when heated, unlike vinyl, it shrinks;
- fire safety - thanks to special impregnations, the textile fabric does not ignite and does not support combustion;
- high strength - accidental damage to polyester is unlikely;
- quick installation - no heat gun required;
- easy care - the antiseptic coating of the canvas prevents the accumulation of dust on the surface;
- water permeability - polyester is not friendly with water and is not suitable for wet rooms;
- possibility of multiple dyeing – textiles can be painted with acrylic paints, but no more than 5 times to avoid sagging.
Frost resistance of film and fabric sheets
The most important difference between a fabric ceiling and PVC is its ability to withstand prolonged exposure to low temperatures.
Most vinyl materials on the market have operating limits of 0 °C. For fabric fabrics, the lower limit of frost resistance is –40 °C. The difference is significant.
Recently, manufacturers have learned to make film with the addition of latex, which is not afraid of air temperatures dropping to -30 °C. For middle latitudes, this safety margin is quite enough; in a summer house, such cold, as a rule, does not happen. However, the cost of this material is several times more expensive.
How do stretch ceilings behave in winter without heating?
If you plan to install a suspended ceiling in an unheated room, you need to approach the choice of material most responsibly. Here everything depends on climatic conditions, or, more precisely, on the temperature in the room in winter. A summer country house or cottage in cold weather, as a rule, is not heated. In any case, most owners prefer to spend the winter in warm apartments.
The best canvas for the ceiling in a cold house will be synthetic fabric, since polyester does not harden at sub-zero temperatures, while PVC film becomes brittle and brittle.
A vinyl stretch ceiling will crack in the cold, as the membrane tension increases to the limit. The process of destruction is accelerated by sudden temperature changes that are characteristic of our region.
Fabric fabric has another advantage - it is not afraid of hot weather. And the tension of the elastic film weakens when heated, and sagging may even appear. Of course, when the ceiling cools down, it restores its original appearance, but at the same time additional operational loads arise that affect the service life of the coating. Of course, there is no point in constantly turning on the air conditioner in an empty country house, just as there is no point in heating it in winter. In addition, in cold weather, a country building can become a refuge for mice, and PVC film can become the object of their close attention.
Pros and cons of suspended ceilings in cold rooms
From the above, the conclusion suggests itself that at sub-zero temperatures it is better to use synthetic fabric. But not everything is so simple.
- Firstly, there is an alternative in the form of expensive special films that work great in houses without heating. They do not deteriorate from frost and temperature changes, maintaining their properties for many years. True, not everyone can afford such pleasure. In addition, the choice of colors and textures is much more modest compared to conventional film, and the maximum width of such material does not yet exceed 3 m.
- Secondly, with all the advantages, fabric ceilings are susceptible to the formation of fungus. And if the roof leaks, they will not save you from flooding. Another drawback: with high dampness in a cold room, synthetic fabrics become saturated with moisture. All this leads to irreparable damage to the material, which will have to be replaced. In addition, if it is necessary to dismantle the ceiling, for example, to gain access to communications, installing the canvas back is very problematic. The fact is that after stretching, the excess fabric is cut off and when re-installed there will be practically nothing to grab onto. Although there are exceptions here.
- Thirdly, some unheated rooms are not cooled to sub-zero temperatures even in unusually harsh winters. Balconies and loggias that are well insulated from the outside can be passively heated by adjacent warm rooms. Therefore, PVC film is often used as a ceiling covering.
Thus, in order to make the right choice, you need to carefully study the operating conditions of a particular room, weigh the pros and cons, only then can you determine the most suitable material.
Is it worth making a suspended ceiling in the country?
Vinyl film is not intended for use in freezing areas. If you periodically heat your dacha in winter, you may be able to avoid critical hypothermia. But at the same time, inconsistent temperature in the room will affect the condition of the stretch ceiling. Due to strong cooling, the PVC film will shrink, and when the dacha warms up, on the contrary, it will stretch. As a result, the canvas, even if it does not tear, will sag after 2-3 seasons, partially losing its elasticity.
But this is not the biggest problem. In winter, when the ground freezes and the area is covered with snow, field mice find shelter in the country house. These seasonal “hosts” gnaw on everything they can find in the cold. And if at least one of them crawls from the attic into the space between the ceilings, then without hesitation it will turn the PVC sheet into a sieve. You shouldn’t rely on poisoning if you visit the dacha irregularly. One day, some circumstances will prevent you from getting there on time, and hungry mice will have time to deal with the ceiling in 1-2 days.
Perhaps a frost-resistant fabric sheet solves the temperature problem, but in a cold house in winter it will quickly become damp and almost inevitably become covered with mold, which is then almost impossible to wash. So suspended ceilings in a dacha, which will not be heated in winter, are not at all necessary, if not useless. Most owners will be quite satisfied with a more modest finish. Let's look at the existing options:
- Plastic lining or panels. For a dacha, this is the cheapest and most convenient way of finishing. The panels can be washed, they are not too tough for mice, they are not afraid of frost at all, and they come in as many colors as your heart desires. Installation is so simple that any home craftsman can easily handle it.
- Wooden lining. In terms of costs, this option is not cheaper than tensile structures, and installation will take a little longer. But if you do it yourself, the savings will be significant. This ceiling can be varnished, preserving the natural look of wood, or painted in your favorite color. Lining is a very clean, practical and representative way of finishing.
- Plywood. An inexpensive and original option, especially if you have wooden furniture. At the same time, the external similarity of the surface texture with wood will create a unified interior of the room. Various front finish options allow you to choose the right color. If necessary, you can paint the surface or treat it with stain of the desired shade. The material is easy to process and install even without an assistant.
- Foam tiles. Also an inexpensive and quick way to finish a country ceiling. The choice of such tiles, both in size and design, is very wide. And if there is no suitable shade on sale, the foam is easily painted in the desired color. Ceiling tiles are glued without any preliminary preparation. It is better if the foam is laminated. Dirt does not stick to such a surface, and it is very easy to clean. Mice will not eat it, since with such finishing there is no space between the ceilings; the tiles are glued directly to the ceiling.
- Regular whitewash. Perhaps the easiest way to get your ceilings in order. Even a person who does not have the skills of a painter can handle the job. The bactericidal properties of lime protect the ceiling from mold, however, the whitewashing process cannot be called clean - splashes of the solution inevitably fall on the walls, furniture and floors and are not easy to remove later. Therefore, all surfaces are carefully covered with film before the procedure. The disadvantages of this finishing method include the need to periodically re-whiten the ceiling, since over time cracks appear on the surface and in some areas the lime begins to fall off.
So, we tried to briefly describe the main options for finishing ceilings in a country house or country house, the advantages and disadvantages of each method, but the choice, as always, is up to the owner.