Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows. Installation of PVC window in a brick house

In this article we will look at how to properly install plastic windows in a private brick house and, first, we will complete all the necessary preparatory work. They include removing the old window (if there is one), cleaning, leveling the surfaces and taking measurements. Let's look at everything step by step.

Step 1 Remove window.

In some cases they don't exist yet ( new house), or they have already been deleted. If the old structures are still standing, then carefully remove them so as not to damage them brickwork. To do this, you need to walk around the window with a hammer drill using a “spatula” attachment, then remove all fasteners in the wall, if any, and pull the window out. Nothing complicated, the main thing is not to knock down the walls too much, so as not to bother yourself with work.

Step 2 Level the walls.

In order not to suffer for hours with the future window, it is easier to perfectly align the walls. To do this, you need to take a level, apply it to the side walls and align them perfectly to zero. It will be more convenient to set up beacons to make the work more productive. Then take a level and apply it to the wall below future design and level it out. The easiest way to do this is with construction glue, but you can mix the solution with sand 1:3 - it doesn’t matter, the main thing is the result, and you can even level it with all sorts of debris.

Step 3 Measurements.

Now that we have an even rectangle, we can measure it. There are companies that will calculate the window sizes themselves based on the parameters provided. But, as the Russian proverb teaches us: “Rely on migrant workers, but don’t make a mistake yourself.” It is best to take window measurements yourself. We measure the rectangle and then do the following: add 2 cm from the top, subtract 3 cm from the sides and 2-3 cm from the bottom. Now we have the size of the window.

If you are in doubt about the measurements, then it is better to subtract 1 cm more - it will not be difficult to seal a large gap, it will just be a little more expensive, but breaking bricks with a hammer drill to insert PVC will not be easy.

Installing a new window

Now that we have everything prepared for action, we need to clean the premises for the convenience of the workers and we can begin to pretend to be a professional. Let's take a step-by-step look at how to install a plastic window with your own hands.

Step 1 We miraculously insert this entire item into the window frame and hope that the manufacturer did not disappoint with the size.

Now that it's in place deepen it 1/3 from the outside of the wall thickness(we go deeper from the street side). This will significantly reduce heat loss and also increase the efficiency of the entire structure.

Step 2 We measure deviations.

Installation of windows according to GOST is carried out with possible deviation across the entire window no more than 2 degrees, so don’t break “traditions” and do everything evenly. First, we need to hammer in wedges on all sides (a piece of wood cut at an angle) to wedge the entire structure in the opening. After this, we take a ruler and measure the gaps so that they correspond to the calculations described above. We move left and right, up and down, until it is where we need it. Then we lean the level against the plane of the window and measure its tilt “back and forth”. Additionally, you can measure lateral deviations, but if you covered the walls evenly, then there will be none.

Step 3 Secure with dowels.

Is everything aligned exactly? We screw the frame to the wall using long dowels. There are no special requirements for installing windows according to GOST for this item, since this technological process– secure it so that it holds a little and you can seal it further. Therefore, we fasten it as we want, as long as we don’t damage the frame. The only rule is that you cannot tighten the dowels, otherwise the frame will move (dowel length 12-16 cm). Just grab some to the wall.

Step 4 We blow everything out with foam.

Windows must be installed in such a way that the layer of foam is equal to the width of the window structure, without gaps, without gaps, without cracks.

Step 5 We install window sashes.

If you haven't tightened the frame anywhere and pushed everything in carefully, they will open back and forth just fine. Otherwise, they will scribble across the frame. If they scribble too much, we’ll have to redo them; if they get them out too weakly, we’ll put them on the fastenings.

Step 6 Installation of slopes.

There is nothing supernatural here: we just take the slope and plant it on the foam. First they are attached from above, then the side slopes.

Step 7 We fix the window sill.

It must be screwed with self-tapping screws to window frame(there are special places for this below). Can be placed on construction adhesive or foam. The second option is less desirable, since the window sill will “play” and may crack if you sit on it - the foam is not very durable.

If there are gaps somewhere, they can be sealed with sealant suitable color. Installation of windows in wooden house, for example, can exclude many instructions, and when installing a structure in an opening brick house All items are required.

Checking work

After you secure the window, as well as during the work, you need to carry out periodic checks to prevent errors and not to completely redo everything. Let's take a closer look.

1. After installing the structure into the frame, check the level at the bottom so that the window does not slant to the side, and only then screw it in with dowels.
   
2. After every 3-4 dowels, check the deflection of the frame, since plastic is fragile, it is very easy to move it to the side; if necessary, unscrew the dowel.
3. When installing insulation, the window is pressed from the outside until it is completely hidden behind a layer of insulation plus 5 centimeters further into the wall.

Almost every novice master wants to learn how to install a plastic window himself. The advantages of such windows include not only performance characteristics, but also ease of installation. These designs are completed with fasteners and additional parts, so even a novice craftsman can install the windows with his own hands. However, to do everything right, you should consider existing nuances. First of all, it is worth noting that it is very difficult to complete the work alone, so it is recommended to hire an assistant.

Items that will be needed to complete the installation plastic windows:

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• polyurethane foam;
• self-tapping screws;
• anchor;
• building level;
• plumb line;
• slopes;
• windowsill;
• low tides

Before purchasing windows, you will need to take measurements of the opening, taking into account the design. It can be with or without a quarter. Quarter openings are typical for foam block construction. It is worth knowing that such designs significantly reduce heat loss.

In an opening without a quarter, it will be necessary to order windows whose length is 5 cm less than the length of the window opening. The width should be 3 cm less than the corresponding opening indicator. 1.5 cm gaps should be provided along the contour, which will need to be sealed with foam in the future. You will need to leave 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.

Windows with quarter and without quarter

Windows must be ordered by adding 3 cm to the width. The length remains the same. Insulation tapes It will be necessary to apply it not to the plastic frame, but to the place of contact of the quarters with the PVC window. The frame should be pressed against the quarters.

In an opening without a quarter as protective and decorative elements that can prevent the influence external factors on technical properties polyurethane foam, external and internal slopes will be used.

It should be borne in mind that the larger the gap, the greater the consumption of expensive foam. If you want to save money, gaps larger than 4 cm can be partially filled with polystyrene foam or bricks. Gaps from 1 to 4 cm are filled exclusively with foam.

In most cases, windows are not placed in the middle of the opening, but retreating 1/3 deep from the outer base.

However, those who want to mount the window themselves can use options with an offset in the direction they need. This must be taken into account when purchasing a window sill and related accessories. You will need to add approximately 5 cm to the width, which will be calculated based on the placement of the windows.

Existing frame fixation methods

The technology for installing windows will depend on the material from which the walls of the structure are built, as well as on the dimensions of the windows. Based on these factors, you need to choose a method of fixing the elements.

You can secure the structures as follows:

1. Fixation with dowels, which are inserted into the wall through prepared holes in the profile.
2. Plates with teeth that will need to be pressed into the profile. The elements are not mounted into the wall, but installed sideways and fixed with screws. When the installation is complete, we foam the mounting seams and install slopes under which the anchor plates can be hidden. The space between the plane of the opening and the slope must be filled with foam. To reduce the consumption of foam, part of which will be used for additional leveling, a recess can be made under the plate.

The first method is considered the most reliable. It is used in most cases to install heavy window designs. If the fastening is through, the window will resist various impact loads that may arise, for example, when using windows with sashes that open in several directions. Anchors that pass through the frame will allow you to adjust the structure vertically and horizontally.

Fixing the frame when installing a window

People who are interested self installation small plastic windows with fixed double-glazed windows, a suitable method fastening with anchor plates.

For installation of plates in an opening made of concrete or brick, it is recommended to prepare small recesses so that there is no need to apply an extra layer for leveling before installing the slopes.

In some cases, masters use both methods. The anchors are immersed in the walls through the side parts of the frame and the base of the structure, and top part fixed with plates. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Preparing the window and opening

The opening must be cleared of dust, debris and paint residues. If plastic windows are installed in an existing opening, then upper layer need to be cut down. The foam will need to adhere firmly to this layer.

The gaps between the frame and the opening can be filled exclusively with foam.

To prepare the window, you need to do the following:

1. We release the frame from the sash. To do this, you need to remove the pin, which is mounted in the upper loop. Next, you need to carefully pick it up at the bottom. The element must be lifted and removed from the lower loop. Double-glazed windows must be removed from blind windows. To do this, you will need to remove first the longitudinal and then the transverse beads. To remove glazing beads, you need to insert a knife or spatula into the gap, and then slowly move it away. It is worth noting that a small window can be installed even without dismantling the sashes.
2. The glass unit must be leaned against the wall at an angle, then placed on a flat base, which is covered with cardboard. It is not allowed to install the window flat, as cracks may appear due to the impact of stones.
3. It is necessary to remove from the outer base of the frame protective film. This will be much more difficult to do in the future, so it is recommended to remove it at this stage.
4. Finally, you need to place a place for mounting fasteners. The recommended installation step for these devices is 40 cm. If you plan to use mounting plates, they will need to be attached to the frame in advance with self-tapping screws. Holes must be made for anchors or self-tapping screws, and the drill should be placed with outside frames

Window structure after installation

Sequence of actions for installing windows

The frame will need to be inserted into the opening. First you need to lay plastic corners or small bars around the perimeter. These elements will be needed to ensure technological clearance. The blades need to be moved slightly so that it is possible to clearly align the frame horizontally and vertically with equal slots. It is recommended to check the location using the building level. The blades must be placed close to the fixation point with screws or anchors.

Speaking about how to install plastic windows, it is worth knowing that installation can be done in several ways. Therefore, at this stage there will be differences. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. A self-tapping screw must be screwed into the opening of a wooden house through the recesses in the frame. IN in this case There is no need to screw the fastener all the way.
2. On foam concrete or brick walls, points should be marked through the recesses in the frame, then remove the frame and drill holes with a drill that matches the material. Then we put the frame in place and install the fastening element.
3. There is no need to perform any complex actions when installing on anchor plates. They will need to be bent so that they adjoin the place that is intended for their fastening.
4. The final fixation is carried out after checking the horizontal and vertical lines with a plumb line. There is no need to tighten the elements too much, as the frame may bend. Screwing must be completed when the head is level with the frame.
5. The parts that were removed will need to be returned to their place in the reverse order, and then the functionality of the product will be checked.
6. The gaps need to be filled construction foam. The seams are covered with protective tape. On the outside, the insulation tape must be recessed.
7. You need to fill the gap under the drain with foam.
8. At the next stage, the window sill is installed. Plastic construction You will need to move it under the clover a few centimeters.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky enough to find truly skilled craftsmen, you can trust them with the installation. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made from polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, an insert is visible of blue color. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. Particular differences between products different companies No. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Profiles for windows in standard version have White color, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

To understand what we're talking about in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (it is usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom of the outside of the frame (the one facing the street) there is drainage holes, which are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged outside.

The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.

Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the most small value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.

If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is chosen. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, all construction debris must be removed. Ideally, sweep everything away, even the dust, otherwise during installation the foam will not “grab” well on the wall.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them up cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt installation. There are three of them on each side.

When installing without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, and then they are attached to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, small windows installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in an area with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building - in these cases, installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, load bearing capacity which are small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation and unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (the handle is turned down).
            • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on it until it sinks (you can take a metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
            • Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
            • Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If not special tool, it is best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
            • This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them in standard window install another anchor: maximum distance There should not be more than 700 mm between two fastenings.
      5. Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required amount once.

         

      6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.

          

          When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. There are only Finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of hard wood treated with impregnation. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).

          

Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.

Installation without unpacking

The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal ones.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then installing plastic windows with your own hands with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.

If you or someone you know has previously used the services of companies installing double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, the quality will be much higher than in the first (more details about the standards can be found in GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! At self-installation Manufacturers do not provide a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, the structure simply will not fit into the opening.

However, if you study all the intricacies of the process, then no difficulties will arise during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ brick, hence the name) that prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be covered with special covers. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the internal and external widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

1. First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster for a more accurate result.
2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).

Note! The measurements must be repeated several times and the lowest result taken.

To determine the width of the window, two installation gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening are checked, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm to the existing drainage for bending. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the width of the opening is added to the size of the overhang, and the width of the frame is subtracted from the resulting figure. Regarding the offset, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.

Note! Slopes are measured after installation is completed.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, it may be damaged; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after delivery of the ordered windows. Released first workplace, all furniture is covered plastic film(there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, the glass unit is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly pryed with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They're in mandatory are numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the “ventilation mode” (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. All that remains is the frame with imposts.

Note! Imposts are special jumpers designed to separate the sashes.

Then you need to make a marking for the anchors and make holes along it - two on the bottom/top and three on each side. To do this, you will need ø1 cm anchors and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is not dense (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces for each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled with foam the day before installation. This way the element will not freeze.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out along with the fastening, and if necessary, the frame can be sawed.

Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed and the cement layer underneath is cleaned off.

Step 4. Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer material (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. Polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to level the structure), only after this is it fastened to the wall. You can leave the backings - they will serve as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install a low sill with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. It is typical that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use a laser one.

Step 4. If the window is level, then it is secured with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled using a hammer drill through pre-prepared holes in the structure (approximately 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final inspection. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will “skew”.

Stage 6. Drainage

From the outside, the ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.

The edges of the ebb are recessed several centimeters into the walls, having previously made indentations using a hammer drill.

Note! Before installation, the bottom gap is also sealed.

Stage 7. Window assembly

After attaching the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber hammer).

Step 2. The doors are opened and their tightness is checked. IN open position arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot happen if the window is installed level.

Step 3. The assembly seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass fogging. Before and after sealing, the seams are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled to no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead.” If everything is done correctly, after drying the foam will protrude out a few centimeters.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and material with a foil surface is used underneath.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The window sill is cut so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic slopes.

Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the window sill. It needs to be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after completion of installation (then the foam will have already “set”).

The described technology is quite applicable to balcony glazing, although it also has its own nuances - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.

A distinctive feature of plastic windows in brick house is the presence of wide window sills, the absence of any standards in window sizes, different designs of openings - with and without a quarter. The houses are built of brick, the walls are wide, so the thermal insulation is much higher than in panel houses.

Despite all the advantages, measuring, dismantling and installing plastic windows in a brick house can only be done by professionals.

Typical types of windows in a brick house

Besides standard designs, installed in panel houses, we highlight several standard sizes mounted in brick houses:

1. Window sizes 1500x1900 mm, 1200x1800 mm, 1000x1800 mm, high and narrow
2. Window size 2400x2100 mm
3. Arched windows
4. Balcony block

There are other types of windows in brick houses, all characterized by the presence of wide window sills, from 400 mm to 700 mm. Window sill options:

• Installation plastic window sill width 400-700 mm.
• In Stalinist houses, the window sill is made of solid concrete; at the client’s request, we leave it instead of plastic. Requires mortar sealing and painting.

Openings in brick houses:

• and a quarter;
• without a quarter (straight).

To install a plastic window, we calculate the dew point and determine the installation depth in the opening. In brick residential buildings straight slopes are rare.

Features of dismantling and installing plastic windows in a brick house

When determining dimensions, difficulties arise due to the presence of a thick layer of plaster (up to 5 cm). You have to beat it off to get to the brick and determine whether there is a quarter. It is difficult to determine the presence of distortions under a layer of plaster. Distortions horizontal, vertical, uneven walls- these are the features of a brick house. When dismantling the old wooden window it turns out a lot construction waste.

If the window slopes are made at an angle, this means that they are made of plaster, so large cavities are formed during dismantling. to install plastic slopes, first we fill the cavities with mortar using wooden blocks to save mortar. Or we seal it using polystyrene foam and professional polyurethane foam.

When installed in straight openings, no more than 2 cm remains between the frame and the wall; if there are distortions in places, the frame is in complete contact with the wall. Isolation mounting tape in this case we produce outside, or install plastic corners along the perimeter of the outer opening - close the gaps. Then we kick from the side of the room.

A large cavity forms under the window, where the old window frame met the sill. After dismantling the concrete window sill, we foam the cavities, strengthen and insulate the areas for the plastic window sill. To do this, we lay polystyrene foam in the cavity, fasten it with polyurethane foam, foam the area under the window sill with a thin stream of polystyrene foam, and install it for leveling and strengthening. wooden slats, bars. For additional insulation under the windowsill we lay any construction insulation from 3 cm thick. We install a window sill on top, bringing it under the window frame. To fix it, we attach the window sill to the frame using screws, foam it, and place heavy objects on it. We close the side and top cavities in the same way.

Each window in a brick house requires a special approach: the presence of unexpected cavities under a layer of plaster, distortions of the opening, large cavities after dismantling, loss of bricks or its destruction force installers to find customized solutions during the installation process.

Measuring, dismantling and installing a plastic window in a brick house is a long, labor-intensive and costly process that requires high professionalism of workers.

Features of the operation of plastic windows in brick houses

Advantages of using plastic windows in brick houses:

• the brick material from which the house is made is hygroscopic, “breathes”, has high thermal insulation, so condensation on double-glazed windows is minimal due to lack of heating, humidity, etc.;
• the window in the opening is moved closer to the outer edge, in winter the cold air is partially heated on the way from the double-glazed windows to the room (500-600 mm) - the window does not “pull” cold.

Based on the results of requests from our customers, we have compiled a table in which we list the main problems that sometimes arise during the operation of plastic windows in brick houses, their origin and methods of solution.

Recommendations for choosing plastic windows for brick houses

1. If you are a resident of the northern regions (in winter the air temperature is −22° and below), choose a 5-chamber double-glazed window with a thickness of 70 mm.
2. If you are a resident southern regions, choose a 48 mm 3-chamber double-glazed window.
3. Discuss window design with manufacturers, remember: high altitude the sash may cause difficulties in opening it.
4. When dividing the window into sections, consider the possibility of washing the windows in the future.
5. Be mentally prepared for the unpresentable appearance of the window immediately after installation, the presence of large cavities in the walls and a large number construction waste is normal in brick houses.
6. To avoid the difficulties described above, order a complete set - window sill, drainage, external and interior decoration openings with plastic.