Installation of apartment sewerage - rules and possible mistakes. Do-it-yourself sewerage in an apartment: installation stages and internal wiring rules How to properly install sewerage in an apartment

Drainage, like water supply, is one of the main communications in the apartment. If you can live without it for some time in a private house by hastily equipping a powder closet with your own hands, then in a multi-storey building such a maneuver will not work.
The sewerage system is installed immediately after the installation of the water supply system. Most often, these two works are combined, because the material is almost identical. And these jobs are usually performed by the same plumbers. Is it possible to do this kind of work with your own hands? Let's try to figure it out.

Photo: diagram of the sewer riser of a multi-storey building

Preparing to start work

Initially, all apartment buildings built during the Soviet era were equipped with cast iron sewers, which had served their working life. In addition to the fact that it will need to be replaced with a modern one, the wiring itself may change, namely, its direction. This happens due to rearrangements of bathroom units or due to the redevelopment of the room itself.

The first step is to draw up a design design for the entire sewerage system. Specialist engineers compile it in professional programs. For an ordinary person, a correctly drawn drawing by hand will be enough. For a more competent approach, you can consult with plumbing equipment sales consultants from whom craftsmen constantly buy this product.

Photo: example of a sewerage project

Modern sewerage - choosing materials

Today, metal fittings and pipes are used only in industry, and even then less and less. It is simply not suitable for DIY household use. The old cast iron has been replaced by various modifications of plastics, the properties of which are much more advantageous than those of metal, and are also suitable for installing water pipes. In addition, you can assemble them yourself. Among others, the following stand out:

• PVC is polyvinyl chloride, one of the most common elements for household plumbing. Chemically resistant to various acids, solvents, oils, etc., non-flammable in air, dielectric, resistant to deformation and heat;
• PN - polyethylene, a cheap material, pipes made from it do not withstand deformation loads, especially at high temperatures;
• PP – polypropylene, heat-resistant material (softening temperature – 145 o C), resistant to aggressive acidic environments and synthetic solvents, ultraviolet and oxygen, corrosion-resistant material.

There are quite a few plumbing products for sewer installations on the domestic market. There are both budget options for pipes and fittings, as well as products from the largest manufacturers in Russia, such as Eurotrubplast, TekhStroyPolymer, PoliPlastik, Politek, etc.

Photo: plastic sewer pipes

The importance of diameters in the selection of components for sewerage

Despite ready-made standards, the selection of diameters for various elements of prefabricated sewer wiring remains with the master who will install it. Therefore, you need to know the basic rules for selecting pipes and fittings. Based on these rules, a sewerage diagram in the apartment will be drawn up.

For main vertical risers, pipes with a diameter of 100, 110, 160, 200, etc. are applicable. The elbows and tees for the toilet bowl have approximately the same dimensions. The bath, shower, washbasin and bidet are connected using pipes with a diameter of 40, 50 and 75 mm. The same dimensions are used for outlets to the kitchen sink. A working diameter of 32 mm is less commonly used. Such pipes are intended exclusively for liquid waste, without admixture of dense and large waste fractions. For household appliances accompanied by a wastewater drainage system, their own pipe standards are used, which are included in their factory configuration. For washing machines, for example, corrugated pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are used.

Preparing to replace your sewer system

After the entire set of sewer wiring has been purchased, taking into account the presence of all plumbing fixtures and their location relative to the main drain riser, it is necessary to determine the beginning of the work and prepare the neighbors for it. During this time, they, like all the residents of your “riser”, will have to be left without sewerage and the ability to somehow use it.

The best way is to write an advertisement for plumbing work for certain apartments in your house, and hang it in a visible place or put samples of it in the mailbox. Ideally, there will be a personal warning from them, because cleanliness during the work process is very important.

Important!
Experienced plumbers note that even after the most thorough warning, some drainage during work is still possible. To do this, immediately after cutting the main cast-iron pipe under the ceiling of the bathroom, some small container, for example, a plastic bottle or a small bucket for draining sewage, is attached to its outlet.

Installation of sewerage in an apartment

– before starting the installation of the entire drainage system, it is necessary to clean the bathroom of excess plumbing fixtures, which will subsequently be replaced with new ones. After there is nothing unnecessary left in the workroom, you can begin adjusting the pipes and connecting them to fittings on the floor. This should be done for the convenience of connecting them locally, and to more accurately imagine the structure of your sewage system.

– it is most rational to start this work with secondary wiring from the bathroom, toilet, etc. Lastly, when it is possible to completely present all the small wiring in the assembly, and all that remains is to connect it to the main riser, it can be dismantled.

– the best option for adjusting the size of all sewer elements is to assemble them separately on the floor with your own hands. For this you can use all available fittings: couplings, bends, elbows, etc. Tees allow you to make transitions from a larger diameter to a smaller one. Most connecting elements contain rubber O-rings and gaskets, which virtually eliminate sealant sealing. But don’t forget about securely fastening the wiring to the wall using special rubberized clamps mounted to the wall using dowel nails.

4. Replacing the main riser– the calculation of its structure, especially the lower part, is very important to do in advance, since it must ensure the drainage of the entire sewer system from all plumbing fixtures. Its upper part is usually a solid pipe, into which you can only install a coupling with an inspection hatch and an emergency gasket.

Photo: replacing a sewer riser with your own hands

Important!
When connecting the sewer system and its individual elements, it is necessary to leave a temperature gap that will not allow the material to deform under the influence of high temperatures. Its device is very simple. To do this, you need to insert the pipes all the way, and then push them back a few millimeters.

The main principle that must be taken into account when replacing a proper sewer system with your own hands is the slope of its horizontal and adjacent parts, ensuring their sufficient drainage. The exception is the main sewer riser, which is always located vertically and represents an ideal angle for drainage.

During long-term operation of the sewerage system, residents of high-rise buildings begin to think about replacing it. Because it is impossible to restore its functioning due to emergency local repairs. This is due not so much to the quality of the source materials, but to the operational process. Sewage functionality is affected by waste discharged into the system every day, sudden changes in the temperature and chemical composition of water, leading to a disgusting sewer smell, blockages and leaks. In addition, due to mechanical impact during neighboring repair work, sewer risers are at risk of movement and depressurization. Replacing the sewer system in your apartment with your own hands can be an acceptable solution to this problem.

Before changing the sewer system in an apartment, you need to decide on the material of its main elements, which are presented:

1. Ceramics, products from which are characterized by high cost, which leads to their infrequent use. However, the difference between this raw material is its resistance to aggressive environments.
2. Polymers. The replacement of pipes with polymer materials can be explained by their surface smoothness, which prevents the formation of contamination and overgrowth of pipes. Such products can be polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride. The use of polypropylene products is considered the most optimal when arranging sewerage in an apartment due to their resistance to elevated temperatures, durability and ease of installation. Polyvinyl chloride raw materials are characterized by strength and ultraviolet resistance. But, during its combustion or heating, harmful substances are released. Such products are weak to aggressive environments. However, their use in sewage systems is quite common.
3. Metal, namely steel and cast iron. Steel is known for its low cost, strength, and high-temperature endurance. Before using more expensive cast iron, it is necessary to take into account its susceptibility to corrosion, installation complexity and the need for special tools. However, such products are durable and last a long time.

It is necessary to decide on the connection of sewer fittings:

• Rubber couplings suitable for cast iron pipes;
• Due to the socket method (for plastic products). Its implementation is possible by putting the expanded part on another, smaller, socket. Sealing of connections is achieved by using a rubber seal or ring.

How to install a sewer system

Before you begin any manipulations, you need to check the pre-drawn sewer diagram in the apartment. This is useful for determining the number of pipes and required elements. To draw up such a diagram, it is necessary to take into account all plumbing fixtures, places and methods of connecting them to the sewer pipe. In addition to socket elements, plastic-cast iron adapters, expansion pipes, revisions, crosses, couplings, bends and tees may be required.

The main principle of the sewerage system is a higher pressure in the riser compared to atmospheric pressure, and strict consistency of slopes. At reduced pressure, atmospheric air will force sewer gases into the living space, which contributes to the formation of an explosive mixture. If the pressure is excessive, harmful gases are released from the water siphons and penetrate into the apartment.

Dismantling the existing cast iron sewer system

Owners of apartments on the upper floors can immediately dismantle them. In other cases, neighbor consent is required in connection with the planned work, as well as temporary non-use of the sewerage system. The ideal option would be to simultaneously replace the entire apartment riser. If such manipulations are impossible, only one part of the riser is cut out.

All manipulations are carried out carefully, avoiding damage to neighboring pipes. Pipe cutting is carried out at any length due to the uselessness of old elements. Before this, all plumbing fixtures are disconnected to prevent their destruction. Short sections can be disassembled, after which the dismantling of the riser begins.

Using a pipe cutter or grinder, the middle of the riser is subjected to two cuts with a distance of 15 centimeters and a slight slope. Complete cutting of the pipe is undesirable due to the possibility of the grinder disc being pinched by the upper part of the riser. After this, the cut piece is carefully removed, followed by cutting off the remaining upper piece of the riser, taking into account the height of the shaped parts that are put on the remaining part of the riser. To ensure an even, clearly perpendicular pipe cut, construction tape can be used.

The next step in replacing the apartment sewer system is to remove the bottom piece of the riser. To do this, it is possible to carefully swing it and pull the pipe out of the tee. With strong pipe fixation, the riser seam and tee are cleared and then rocked. If there is no positive result, the tee is sawed off at a distance of several centimeters from the socket. After which, pieces of tee residues are removed with a special wedge. During the dismantling process, it is necessary to limit the sewerage from the possible entry of pieces of pipe. It is advisable to block the hole with a rag.

Do-it-yourself installation of a new sewer system in an apartment

The sewerage installation process can be divided into the following stages:

1. Using a square and a ruler, apply fixing markings for the sewer pipe to the wall, observing a 5-degree slope from the extreme drain point to the sewer riser.
2. Complete set of pipes of the required length with tees for connecting plumbing fixtures.
3. Applying clamp mounting points to the wall.
4. Drilling the required holes.
5. Installation and wall mounting.
6. Connecting pipes to the sewer riser.
7. Their extension with pipes of the required length to the next water distribution point with the entire structure secured with mounting clamps. Rubber lip seals are used for all connections.
8. Checking the tightness of the assembled system.
9. Connecting plumbing fixtures to the sewer system.

Features of internal wiring

The wiring is determined by the sewerage diagram in the apartment. To ensure normal tension, in addition to rigid fasteners, floating ones can also be used. Rigid fasteners with bolted seals ensure pipe stability. Floating fasteners that do not have a seal are allowed to move longitudinally. When carrying out installation manipulations, follow certain rules:

• The installation of main pipes is carried out in the opposite direction of the flow, which helps prevent leaks.
• Shortening and deformation of shaped parts is not allowed.
• The sewer line slopes in the direction of the riser.
• A rectangular transition of the riser into the outlet pipe is not recommended.
• The recommended diameter for the pipe leading to the toilet is 11 centimeters, for other plumbing fixtures – 0.5 centimeters.

If you don’t want to have an open system, you can hide it in two ways:

• Wall or floor backfilling by drilling a hole of the required depth or constructing a podium structure;
• After installation, concealment by constructing a decorative plasterboard box for pipes in the toilet and bathroom, subsequently tiled.

Video instruction - “Laying pipes and sewerage”

Dismantling the old sewer system in an apartment is in many ways a more responsible procedure than in a private house. After all, in case of mistakes, not only your home, but also your neighbors’ apartments may suffer. For this reason, many owners hire a professional team to work with sewerage, whose services are not the cheapest. But if you want to save money and are the happy owner of skillful hands, you can replace the apartment sewer system yourself.

The first thing you should do on the way to a new indoor sewage system is to draw a future network. It is important to do this even if you plan to replace pipes and some plumbing equipment, and not redo the sewer system by changing the position of sanitary fixtures and the location of the pipes.

It is not necessary to draw up a drawing, as is done in design organizations, but the diagram should be as detailed as possible.

The plan should show:

• lengths of all pipes to scale;
• be sure to indicate the diameters of the pipelines, their number, as well as the number and locations of all connecting elements and water seals;
• sketch out the sanitary equipment and its location;
• riser location;
• the number of pipes and the distance from them to the walls;
• location of inspection hatches;
• pipeline slope.

In order to correctly draw up a plan for arranging a drainage system, as well as implement it, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of installing an internal sewer network.

Rules for arranging sewerage in an apartment

Since the sewerage replacement will take place in an apartment building in which apartments located above each other have a common riser, do not forget to notify your neighbors about the upcoming work. After all, you will cause them a number of inconveniences, which is better to warn them about.

In addition, you will have to agree with the organization that maintains the house to turn off the water supply. So, you will at least protect yourself from the activities of forgetful neighbors related to the bathroom.

From a purely technical point of view, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

1. Many experts do not recommend replacing a cast iron riser unless absolutely necessary, since this material is really durable, and dismantling a cast iron pipe is a complex process, which, if necessary, is best left to professionals.

   

2. Modern materials that are most suitable for installation on your own are pipes and fittings made of plastic.

   

   

3. An important condition when installing wiring is to maintain a slope for each linear meter of the pipeline. The amount of slope depends on the diameter of the pipe. If the cross-section of the pipes is 5 cm, then the slope should be about 3 cm, with a diameter of 11 cm - 2 cm. Changing the slope should not be allowed either in a larger or smaller direction, because this will ultimately lead to blockage.

   

4. The diameter of the pipes depends on their purpose. The riser, which will receive waste in large portions, should have a cross-section of 100-110 mm. This applies, for example, to a vertical pipe that collects wastewater from a toilet, washing machine and dishwasher.
   If the installation of the latter is not planned, and the bathroom has a separate riser, then the vertical pipeline receiving water from the kitchen can have a diameter of 5 cm. For sewer wiring, it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 4-5 cm.
5. It is important to consider that the sewer system is subject to dynamics during operation. For this reason, when making a socket connection, it is necessary to insert the smooth end of one pipe into the socket of the other not completely, leaving a gap of 10 cm.
   This compensates for the increase in pipe length as temperatures rise. Another dynamic is associated with the creation of internal tension in the pipeline, which is regulated by two types of fastening the riser using clamps, which will be discussed below.
6. It is recommended to install grease traps on pipes that drain water from kitchen sinks and dishwashers.

   

7. Of all the plumbing fixtures, the toilet should be located at the lowest point of the intra-apartment sewer network.
8. It is mandatory to have water seals after the plumbing, in which liquid remains, preventing the penetration of foul odors into the room.

   

   Water seal for sewerage

9. If, during the operation of the old network, a characteristic odor emanated from the plumbing drains, and when flushing water from the toilet or washing machine, a loud squelching sound was heard from the pipes, then this indicates poor ventilation of the riser. Perhaps the drain pipe is clogged. Then you need to call a locksmith from the organization servicing your home. However, in some cases, simply cleaning the ventilation is not enough. Then the riser is equipped with a check valve.

   

After all the measurements have been made, a diagram has been drawn up, taking into account all the nuances, and the necessary materials have been selected and purchased, you can begin the dismantling process if we are talking about replacing the old network.

Dismantling the old network

Used pipes can only be removed when the water supply is turned off.

They start by dismantling the riser. It’s easier if this vertical pipe is replaced at the same time for all neighbors. However, this option is rare.

It is much more common to change the system in only one apartment. Let's consider this option.

Work related to dismantling the riser is dangerous and requires a certain skill, so it is better to invite a specialist to carry it out. In any case, you can’t do without a partner.

Step 1. Secure the riser from above using two half-brackets connected to each other with studs mounted into the wall. A rubber gasket must be placed between the half-brackets and the pipe itself. This measure will allow, when removing part of the riser, not only to avoid the fall of its section coming from the neighbors living above, but also to compensate for the vibration that will appear during the dismantling process.

Step 2. First, all plumbing fixtures are separated from the sewer network. The bathroom is emptied as much as possible.

Step 3. Cut off the pipe going to the tee, leaving a small section of the pipeline. This measure will make it easier to dismantle the tee in the future.

Note! Cutting old pipes must be done carefully not only if you plan to preserve the riser or at least the tee. The reason for caution is the fragility of cast iron. During dismantling, vibration is created, which can damage the riser itself, and a fragment can clog the pipe.

Step 4. 2 oblique cuts are made in the center of the riser so that the maximum distance between them is 12 cm.

Step 5. By inserting wedges first into the lower and then into the upper cut, using a chisel and hammer, carefully remove the section of pipe between the cuts.

Step 6: While one person holds the old pipe on top, another person cleans the top joint of the old pipes. If the sealing is done using sulfur, then you can heat the joint with a burner. The sulfur will melt and can be removed with a knife.

Step 7. Rock the pipe together with the crosspiece in order to then pull them out of the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors below. This joint can also be secured with sulfur.

Step 8. Clean the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors from the old sealant.

The old riser has been removed and you can begin installing a new one.

Installation of a new riser

If you removed not only part of the riser, but also the tee, installation of the vertical pipe can be done according to the following scheme.

Step 1.

Step 2. Now a tee is installed in the socket.

Note! In some cases, the connection between the cross and the socket may not seem strong enough. This can be corrected by using special silicone or plumbing tow.

Step 3. Mark the axis of the riser on the wall with a pencil.

Step 4. Assemble the riser without rubber seals and install it in place for testing. At this point, you can mark the mounting locations of the fasteners on the wall. In standard apartments, 3-4 clamps are enough. If there are any errors in the assembly of the riser, they are corrected.

Note! Don't forget about the inspection hatches on the riser. They will help in inspecting the vertical pipe for blockages and cleaning it.

Step 5. Mount the brackets into the wall.

Note! It is advisable to use brackets, since it is not recommended to install the pipe close to the wall.

Step 6. Assemble the riser for finishing, this time using rubber seals and hermetic lubricant. At the top it is connected to a cast iron pipe with a cuff, and the lower part is inserted into the tee. Fix the riser to the wall with clamps.

There are 2 types of fixation.

1. Near the sockets, rigid fastening is used, carried out using tightly tightened clamps with rubber gaskets.
2. Additional fixation can be achieved with a floating connection, which is made with the same clamps. In this case, a rubber gasket is not used, and the fasteners are not tightened too much.

The installation of the riser is complete. You can start wiring.

Video - Replacing a sewer riser

It makes no sense to dwell in detail on the dismantling of old horizontal sewer pipes. The main thing is to free the pipes from the concrete and carefully disconnect them from the tee. Since the pipeline is old and there is no need to maintain its integrity, dismantling it is much easier.

The principle of installing new wiring is not much different from installing a riser.

Step 1. First, draw the axis of future pipes on the wall with a pencil, observing the slope. Often a groove is made in the wall, in which wiring secured with clamps is laid.

Note! The width of the groove should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipeline laid in it.

Step 2. Roughly assemble the pipeline without gaskets and attach it to the wall.

Note! The sockets must face the movement of water.

Step 3. Assemble the pipeline from its entry point into the tee to the plumbing fixtures. All connections are made using rubber seal and sealant. The ends of the pipes must be chamfered and free from irregularities.

Hidden plumbing and sewerage

Step 4. Fix the pipe to the wall using clamps, which should be located at a distance of no more than half a meter from each other.

Note! Some of the clamps must rigidly fix the pipe, while in others the pipeline must have a floating stroke to compensate for the vibration of the pipes during the movement of water.

Step 5. The toilet is connected to the riser using a corrugated pipe with a diameter of at least 10 cm.

Step 6. Connect the rest of the sanitary equipment to the wiring.

After installation, first carry out a visual inspection for leaks. Then you can turn on the water and use it to accurately check the strength of the connections.

Video - How to connect metal-plastic pipes

Checking pipe joints

To make sure that the pipes are tightly connected to each other in the outlet and riser, you must proceed as follows.

1. Drain the bathtub by closing the overflow hole.
2. Release the drains and simultaneously open the hot and cold water valves to full capacity.
3. Plug the toilet drain hole. It is convenient to use a plunger for this.
4. Fill the toilet with a bucket of water to the brim and open the drain.
5. Ask the neighbors above to drain the water to check the tightness of the riser.

If the work is done efficiently, there should be no water at all at the joints.

Such difficult work has to be done to replace the sewer network inside the apartment. If you doubt that you can do this efficiently and in a short time, then contact the specialists. After all, the neighbors also don’t come and wait while you figure out the nuances of dismantling the old and installing a new network on site.

Video - Laying plastic sewerage

All wastewater from the apartment's numerous plumbing fixtures is discharged through sewer pipes. Developers undertake their installation, but homeowners have to deal with repairs and replacement of utilities. Sometimes a new building requires laying a sewer system from scratch. The installation work can be entrusted to plumbers, but if you have free time and want to save money, then you can install the sewage system in your apartment yourself. The main thing is to know how to install pipes and connect plumbing.

The first stage is planning

Before laying pipes and installing plumbing, it is necessary to plan the sewer system. The scheme includes the following elements:

• locations of plumbing fixtures: toilet, sink, shower, bathtub, dishwasher, bidet;
• length and diameter of pipes;
• distance from walls to plumbing and pipes;
• riser location;
• diameter of siphons for connecting sinks and bathtubs;
• number of connecting elements (fittings);
• location of inspection points.

If there are no plans to connect new points, then you do not need to change the existing sewerage layout. This will make it easier to calculate the required material. The length of all pipes is measured on site; if they pass through a wall, then the size of each section will be required.

The diameter of sewer pipes is not chosen arbitrarily; there are recommendations for their size:

• for the riser section – 110 mm;
• for a toilet – 110 mm;
• for baths, sinks and other appliances – 50 mm.

To connect some devices, a 32 mm pipe is sometimes used.

You also don’t have to choose the slope yourself; pipes with a diameter of up to 50 mm are located at an angle of 3º, and 110 mm - 2º. This means that on an area of ​​1 meter the slope changes by 3 and 2 cm, respectively. The correct location of the line ensures the movement of water in a gravity system.

Material selection

It is mounted from plastic; it is more difficult to work with cast iron pipes. Three types of polymer pipes are used: polyvinyl chloride, propylene and polyethylene. These products are similar in appearance and properties:

• smooth surface on which deposits do not accumulate;
• strength, corrosion resistance;
• a light weight;
• durability;
• installation does not require welding.

To connect pipes, special elements are required: bends, tees, metal transitions, cuffs. It is better to purchase all the necessary material from one manufacturer, this guarantees an accurate match of all diameters. Sealing the joints will require silicone grease, which is also purchased in advance. So, for work we will need:

• plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 and 110 mm;
• fitting;
• sealing cuffs;
• plastic clamps selected according to the cross-section of the pipes;
• inspection hatch, which is installed on a common riser;
• silicone sealant.

Tools:

• perforator;
• Bulgarian;
• hammer;
• hacksaw;
• chisel;
• adjustable wrenches of various sizes.

Sewer replacement begins with the riser. This is the most difficult area; drains from neighboring apartments pass through it, so while the pipe is being replaced, neighbors should be asked not to use the sewer for a while. Dismantling proceeds as follows:

1. Access is provided to the junction of the riser with the neighboring site. This may require breaking up part of the floor.
2. Part of the cast iron pipe is cut out with a grinder. If it is not possible to cut through completely, then it can be broken with a hammer. The work must be carried out carefully, since a broken piece of pipe may remain inside and block the entire pipe.
3. A tee is installed at the bottom of the riser near the floor. The straight plastic pipe chosen for the riser is connected at the top to the rest of the cast iron pipe using an adapter collar. Fastening with a tee is carried out with a socket. The tightness of the joint is ensured by a rubber ring and silicone sealant.
4. The pipe is attached to the wall with clamps. In the area of ​​the sockets the pipe is fixed rigidly, in other places the fixation is floating.

Having finished installing the riser, we begin wiring.

Installation of sewer system

All plumbing fixtures are disconnected from the pipes that need to be removed. After removing the old system, the location of the new highway is marked. When installing a pipeline, straight sections are preferable; there should be a minimum number of bends and turns that cause blockages. Correct installation of the sewer system with a small number of connections and a consistent angle of inclination ensures self-cleaning of the system. With each flush, the stream carries away the residue from the previous stream.

You can mark the slope of the pipes using a line on the wall or a cord attached to the highest and lowest points of the sewer system. Using this marking, the installation locations of the fasteners are determined; for pipes Ø 50 mm, clamps are placed every 50 cm. To relieve stress in the pipes, it is necessary to combine two types of fastening:

• rigid - the pipe is fixed with a clamp with a rubber gasket;
• floating - the fastener allows the pipe to move; it is performed without a rubber insert.

Before installing pipes, you need to chamfer them and clean the edges to avoid burrs. The inside surface of the pipe and fitting must be clean and dry. When making a connection, the end of the pipe is inserted into the socket until it fits tightly. To enhance the tightness, silicone grease is applied to the rubber ring. The sockets must be positioned along the flow of water. During the operation of the sewer system, thermal deformation of the plastic occurs. To prevent the seam from losing its tightness when the material expands, leave a gap of 1 cm. This is done like this: the pipe is inserted into the socket until it stops, then a mark of 10 mm is made and the part is pulled back to this mark.

To avoid having to redo the finished system, it is worth carrying out a trial installation without sealed connections. Once you are satisfied that the installation is correct and all parts are present, you can perform final assembly.

1. Only straight plastic pipes can be cut. Most often, at home, the cut is made with a hacksaw, always at an angle of 90º.
2. If necessary, make a turn, it is better to use two 45º bends. They do not break up moving drains so dramatically, so they become clogged less often.
3. The toilet is connected to the system first, then the rest of the plumbing fixtures.
4. In difficult areas, a segment called revision is installed. It has a hole covered with a rubber cover, through which you can inspect the inner surface of the pipe.
5. Some plumbing is connected directly to the sewer, but there are devices that require the installation of a siphon. This is a device with a bend in the form of an elbow, inside of which there is always water for a water seal. The siphon prevents unpleasant odors from the sewer system from spreading indoors.
6. Sewerage installation is carried out not only along the walls, but also in the groove. Before being placed into the wall, the pipes are wrapped in soft material to reduce noise. To prevent cement from getting into the joints, they are sealed with tape. In the grooves, the pipes are fixed in a floating manner.
7. The ends of the horizontal bends are closed with plugs.

After installation, it is necessary to check the tightness of the assembled system at all sections of the wiring throughout the apartment and at the junction with the riser. The reliability of the connection of the new riser with the neighbor's pipe is checked after draining the water in the upper apartment. To check, water is drawn into the bathroom, and then the plug is removed, both taps in the kitchen are opened, and the water in the toilet is drained. The reliability of the joints is easy to assess - they all must be dry.

Video

This video shows how to replace an apartment cast-iron sewer line in a Stalinka building with a plastic one:

Photo

This means the question arises about replacing the sewerage system in the apartment. Or do you need to install a plumbing system in a ready-made, newly rebuilt room? If you don’t have extra or free funds, you’ll have to think about working independently. All that is required is a little free time and the willingness to independently and efficiently carry out all the work on changing the sewer system. It is quite possible to install a sewer system in an apartment with your own hands!

Planning

The sewer system located in the apartment is a non-pressure system. Its purpose is to drain general wastewater from the main areas of the apartment to the common riser of the house. This means that from the plumbing to the riser, the sewer system must have a certain angle of inclination, allowing wastewater to move in a given direction.

The first thing you need to start with is planning the sewer system. If an apartment or house requires major repairs in order to replace old parts of the sewer system with new ones, then the task is greatly simplified. In another case - when installing a sewer system in a new house - you will have to think about connecting pipes to the right places. What is required from the planning stage?

• Choose places to install plumbing fixtures - kitchen sink and all bathroom parts. If you are just changing plumbing fixtures and pipes, you need to make sure that the outlets of the sewer system pipes are in order.
• Prepare or inspect existing sewer lines. At this stage, the angle of inclination is selected. It depends on the diameter of the pipes: with a diameter of 50 mm, the slope should be 3 cm per 1 m of pipe length; with a diameter of 100 mm - 2 cm per 1 m of pipe length.
• Determine how much and what kind of building materials will be needed to replace or install the sewer system.
• Purchase the necessary building materials for the upcoming work.
• Next comes the test assembly of the sewer and its inspection.
• Dismantling an old system or preparing for installation of a sewer system.
• Installation of new equipment, installation and sealing of the system.
• Connecting all necessary plumbing equipment and checking its operation.

Preparing for installation of a sewer system

When planning plumbing work, you need to take careful measurements to purchase sewer pipes of the required length and diameter.

Any inaccuracies in the project will result in the impossibility of functioning of the entire system as a whole.

Therefore, measurements of future sewerage installations must be carried out as accurately as possible. For non-professionals, there is no need to draw up a complete system installation project; it is enough to take the necessary measurements. You will need values ​​not only for pipes and their connecting parts - fittings and cuffs, but also for plumbing fixtures - sinks, sinks, toilets, bathtubs.

During a major overhaul, to simplify the task, you need to select plumbing fixtures with characteristics similar to the old one. Taking measurements will also be significantly simplified: you will only need to measure the existing sewerage distribution.

Polypropylene pipes are becoming increasingly popular for sewerage. They have excellent characteristics: they do not rust, do not deteriorate, do not contain deposits on the inside, weigh little and are easy to replace. Therefore, it is recommended to immediately purchase and replace pipes, connecting parts and transitions from cast iron pipes, from which the central sewage system is made, with polypropylene ones. Before purchasing, you need to make a list of the required parts so that you don’t have to buy the necessary parts later.

To connect new pipes you will need a silicone fairy tale intended for installation of a sewer system. Its use helps to quickly install a new system and will reduce resistance in the pipes. When connecting polypropylene pipes, a special cuff is required, which, if the connection is unsuccessful, can become deformed and create stress in this part of the sewer system due to rapid fluctuations in high and low temperatures. Silicone grease is designed to prevent such moments.

The next stage will be the dismantling of the old sewer system. First, the risers are blocked, after which the existing sewage system is disassembled into parts and removed from the apartment.

Installation

• It is preferable to start replacing from the most difficult place: from the riser, if you plan to replace not only sewer pipes. For this purpose, plastic pipes with a similar diameter are selected.
• Before installing the sewer system, it is necessary to carefully check the purchased building materials: the pipes must have a chamfer, and they themselves must be free of any flaws.
• When assembling the system, it is necessary to connect the parts of the sewer system with some adjustment to compensate for changes in pipe length due to temperature fluctuations. Its value does not exceed 1 cm. That is, when connecting the pipes all the way, the parts move apart by 1 cm.
• The sewer system must be attached to the walls. A mounting clamp is intended for this purpose. The distance from one clamp to another depends on the diameter of the pipes used. For example, standard 110 mm pipes for sewerage are attached to the wall every meter. In this case, it should remain possible for the longitudinal movement of the pipes. Such a “floating” fastening of the sewer system will ensure a longer service life of all building materials used during installation.

• If it is assumed that the sewage system in the apartment will be located in the walls, then after the final drawing up of the project it is necessary to drill holes with the desired angle of inclination and the possibility of attaching pipes in a “floating” position. After placing all parts of the system into the prepared holes in the wall and checking the operation of the system as a whole, it is necessary to plaster the surface.

When placing the sewer system in the walls, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of cement getting into the junctions of different sections of the sewer system.

For this, ordinary tape is used, and the pipes themselves are wrapped with protective material: fiberglass, corrugated cardboard, mineral fiber.

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