Greetings, friends! Yesterday I came with new autumn photos. And in this article I decided to demonstrate the processing of my autumn photographs using the video tutorial by Evgeny Kartashov. This lesson is in the free course “Lightroom - quick start”. You can also find some more useful lessons on working in Lightroom there.

I will be processing this photo, which I really liked. In the comments you can write your opinion about the photo: whether you liked it or not.

Girl Elena

I took this photo in the forest of Dynamo Park. The photo turned out not very colorful, but I would like it to convey a bright feeling of autumn. Add warm shades and make it a little more contrasting.

Let's get started.

To increase the contrast of the image, you need to use the tone correction controls. First you need to raise the exposure to about +0.3 - +0.6, but you look at your photo. My image seems to be exposed normally, so it doesn't need much of a difference here.

Then you need to increase the contrast in light colors. To do this, move the Whites knob a little to the right, to about +30. At the same time, press the key and control overexposure. If they appear, you can reduce the Exposure values.

To increase the contrast in the light areas, you need to move the Highlights slider a little to the left, to about -30.

Now we need to increase the contrast in the shadows. To do this, move the Blacks slider to the left until black areas appear in the image. In my case the value turned out to be -65.

Now let's move the Shadows knob a little to the right while holding down the key to control shadows.

Let's see how the image has changed.

After

My image became more contrasty. Now you can add a little Clarity, about +10. This will add local contrast and make the image more voluminous.

Now we need to increase the saturation of the image. Personally, if I were editing a photo, I would use the Vibrance and Saturation controls. But, as Evgeniy said, this raises the saturation in the forehead and this is not good. That’s when I started wondering what’s next.

As it turns out, there is a more subtle way to increase saturation that offers more options.

First you need to make the image a little warmer. In my case, I set the white balance control to 6800. You also look at your image.

Now go to the Camera Calibration tab. You can just go, it’s at the very bottom, or you can press the key combination . And there are several regulators here.

The Hue parameter shifts the color of the corresponding channel in one direction or another, and the Saturation decreases or increases the saturation of the corresponding color.

I increased the red value in the Saturation parameter to about +20. A bit of green and blue meaning.

You can see that the variety of colors in the picture has become much more interesting.

This saturation works differently than the Saturation and Vibance controls.

If desired, you can add a purple tint to the shadows. To do this, set the Tint parameter to approximately +7. If the face turns red, then you can remove the saturation in the red channel.

Now you can add a small vignette to focus attention on the girl. The Amount control is located in the Effects tab. To go to it, you can press the key combination . Add a light vignette, setting the approximate value to -20.

If you wish, you can additionally tint the shadow areas using the Split Toning tab. To do this, hold down the key and move the Hue control until the desired color is selected for the shadow areas. In my case, the value turned out to be 7. Then use the Saturation slider to increase the saturation of this color.

Balance knob while holding down the key , you can adjust the color distribution in shadow or highlight areas. This way it will work on fairly deep shadows without affecting your skin tone or other areas.

Now my favorite. Let's compare what the image was like and what it became.

After

Yes, what is there to compare, they are incomparable! By the way, you can write in the comments whether you liked this treatment or not.

For those who need it, I created a preset for this processing, you can download it.

And this processing can be applied to all your autumn photographs.

Good luck and creative success to everyone!

It's no secret that autumn is a time of inspiration. Some mechanism is triggered that forces people to create: write poetry, paintings, compose music, and, of course, take photographs. Let's look at the photograph, or rather its processing in autumn style.


Let’s take a photo like this and open it in a RAW converter:



There is no need to configure anything special. The only thing you should pay attention to is the brightness of the image. We will increase it by processing the photo in Photoshop, so if there are very bright areas in the photo, it is better to dim them.




Click "Ok". The photo opens in Photoshop. Make a copy of the layer (Ctrl+J):



For further processing you will need the "Color Efex Pro" plugin. It is not included in the standard package of Photoshop. It needs to be downloaded separately. In the plugin interface, select "Cross Balance". The default settings are fine. If something doesn't suit you, you can adjust it. There are no restrictions here. The point of the treatment is to make the colors warmer, but they should not change completely. The original colors just need to become a little more beautiful and richer.




Something like this:



Now let's move on to lighting. We will do it using a curve. Create an adjustment layer and brighten the image.




Overexposed areas can be smoothed out with a mask.




No further processing is necessary. It all depends on the photo and personal preference.




Let's make the photo more contrasty and warmer. To do this, use “Brightness/Contrast” and “Color Balance”:




That's it.

To achieve a similar effect without using third-party plugins, you can create a Color Balance adjustment layer and set the settings as in the following screenshot. The settings will vary for different shots, so don't stick to them strictly.



The screenshot shows the difference between the processing options, but it is removed by the additional time spent searching for the appropriate settings.

Let's look at another example.



Open Raw:



Convert:




Open in Photoshop:



Create a duplicate layer and open Color Efex again. We use the same settings, only this time we set the Strength value to 50%. The default settings make the photo too red.




Click "OK" and change the layer blending mode to Soft Light. Using a mask we correct bad places:



Using a curve we make the photo lighter. We remove overexposure areas with a mask:




Using Color Balance, we bring the picture to the desired state, and again the mask is where you need to adjust:



That's it.

And one more final example. It is similar to the previous ones, but has some features. All processing steps can be viewed in GIF animation.


Here's the whole process step by step:




Explanation of editing steps:
1 - Open the original.
2 - Convert Raw
3 - Using Color Balance, we make the photo warmer.
4 - Use curves to lighten the photo.
5 - With Color Balance we add another autumn effect.
6 - Using Levels, select the blue channel and shift the white point towards yellow.
7 - Levels again. Let's make it lighter.
8 - Using Vibrance we increase the saturation.
9 - Remove excess stains.
10 - We darken where necessary and carry out general tonal correction.

That's it. Good luck with your experiments with autumn photographs.

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In this tutorial you will learn how to change the season in Photoshop. We will turn spring into autumn with color correction and falling autumn leaves. This is a very simple tutorial that will help you change your photos in just a few steps.

So let's get started!

Final result:

Step 1. Add a Source Photo

Open Photoshop. Create a new document. Add an original image of a spring landscape. In this tutorial I used a beautiful image of a spring forest, which you can download from the link at the beginning of this tutorial.

Selective color correction(Selective Color) is a Photoshop adjustment layer with which you can color correct your photos. Selective color correction is used to create black-and-white effects in a photo while keeping certain areas of the photo in color. You can also use this correction to radically change the color, for example, changing the season in a photo, as in this tutorial. You can also use selective color correction to correct skin color.

Step 2: Use Selective Color Correction

Click the icon Selective Color Correction(Selective Color).

In the screenshot below, you can see that this adjustment layer has a drop-down menu Colors(Colors): Red, Yellow, Green, Light Blue, Blue, Purple, White, Neutral, Black(reds, yellows, greens, cyans, blues, magentas, whites, neutrals and blacks). We will only change the settings for some of these colors.

Step 3. Turning Spring into Autumn

Because Each photo is unique in its own way in terms of color tones, you will need to use different color settings for the adjustment layer Selective Color Correction(Selective Color) if you are using a different source image. Therefore, play with all the colors to get the best result. Autumn has beautiful orange, red and gold tones. Therefore, to change spring into autumn, you must change mainly the green and yellow tones.

Set the settings for Reds(Reds) tones.

Set the settings for Yellow(Yellows) tones.

Set the settings for Greens(Greens) tones.

Step 4. Add Autumn Leaves

Create a new layer on top of all other layers and adjustments. Download the original image with autumn leaves from the link at the beginning of this lesson. Next, let's go File - Place(File > Place) and in the browser window that appears, select the original image with leaves. Name the leaf layer Autumnleaves 1 (Falling Leaves 1). You may have to apply scaling to the leaf image, depending on the size of your working document. Duplicate the leaves layer Autumnleaves 1 (Falling Leaves 1). Name the duplicate layer Autumnleaves 2 (Falling Leaves 2).

Step 5

Change the scale of the leaves layer Autumnleaves 1 (Falling Leaves 1) to approximately 50-60%. Go to layer Autumn Leaves 2(Falling Leaves 2) and using the tool Eraser(Eraser Tool), using a soft brush, delete the leaves in the central part of the scene (the main idea is to prevent the two layers of leaves from layering too much on top of each other).

Step 6

As a finishing touch, click the Create a new adjustment layer or fill layer(Create new fill or adjustment layer) at the bottom of the layers panel and select the option from the menu that appears Photo filter(Photo Filter); set the filter color to #ec8a00 and also Density(Density) by 40%.

So, you can see the final result of the transformation of spring into autumn in the screenshot below.

Thank you for being with me. Have a nice day!

Final result:

If you're looking to photograph foliage this fall, you'll probably want to consider moving away from the traditional style of composition to make your images more unique to this common category of photographic art. Adding movement to your fall photos will help make them stand out more.

Add movement to autumn photos


One interesting way to update a dull landscape is to show some movement in the frame. People are more likely to be attracted to an image if you effectively evoke an emotion that relates to the subject you are photographing. Considering the theme of the change of season, including some movement, is a fun way to evoke the feeling associated with the transition from autumn to winter.

Manual exposure

Many photographers, amateur and professional, ignore the BULB mode in their cameras. Some people aren't quite sure what it does, so they prefer to skip all that and just adjust the shutter speed. This year, take a closer look at this mode's functionality and experience its potential to add a sparkle to your seasonal photography.


When working in BULB mode, you can use shutter speeds of several minutes. For example, keeping the shutter open for just a few seconds gives you plenty of time to move the camera during the exposure process, creating stunning effects that can only be achieved with post-processing tools.

In practice, let's say you want to photograph two sunflowers a few feet apart in a field. Instead of standing back and including both flowers in a static, unmoving scene, use this opportunity to slow down your shutter speed and use some movement. To capture a fluid, brooding effect by including both flowers in the frame, simply focus on one flower first, start exposing, and then quickly move the camera to the second flower while the shutter speed is still open.


Shoot falling leaves

Falling leaves are another great subject for experimenting with long exposures. Take a walk through your local park on a windy day this fall to try these new techniques. Find a tree with beautiful foliage that you would like to use as your subject. Set up your equipment and wait for the right moment to capture the natural movement of the outdoors.

When a gust of wind blows a handful of leaves off a tree, use this as an idea to capture the movement of the wind. One way would be to change the scale mid-exposure. Another is to use manual focus mode. Start photographing in focus, then sharply shift focus at the end of the exposure. You can even physically move the camera while the shutter speed is still open.


Autumn decor

If you want to take some unusual shots of your Halloween decorations, you can use the same techniques above to add a haunting and spooky effect to the movement of candles or street lights. Once again, with a few seconds of exposure you can create a more compelling image than just still images of your home's exterior decor. By experimenting with creative compositions like these, you can throw away the standard set of rules and focus on creating something new and exciting.


Moving water

If you're out looking for captivating foliage shots, be sure to take the opportunity to take water photos as well. With a shutter speed of 1/30 of a second, you can turn an ordinary shot of a waterfall into an attractive, silky cascade against a beautiful autumn background. If you can't find a waterfall and are working with a slow moving subject like a stream or stream, then choose a slower shutter speed like 1/15 or 1/4. In general, we recommend that you work in the ¼ and 1/60 range until you find what suits you best. Experiment with shutter speed to find your favorite effect on the water.


Let's get started

Before you dive into these new techniques, here are some quick tips to keep in mind.

Install the camera firmly

When you work with such a long shutter speed, even the slightest camera movement can affect your shot. Therefore, you will need a tripod. If you don't have one (or it's not practical to carry one while walking), try to find a boulder of some kind to use as a camera stabilizer. If you can't find a suitable natural object, you can try a 2-second timer and mount the camera on your equipment bag.

Waterfalls

When photographing waterfalls, if you want a more even exposure without the often inevitable heavy shadows, try to do it early in the morning. If your schedule doesn't allow it, a cloudy day is the second best solution for avoiding shadows.

EnlargeISO

If you're photographing fall decor indoors but the exposure is too dark, try cranking up the ISO (and use a simple noise reduction program).

Blur rear plan

If you want to focus on the subject in the foreground and effectively blur the background, then use the widest aperture and longest focal length of your lens. Slowly move your subject further and further away from the background as you take the photo.


By using these tips effectively and displaying the movement of your subjects, you can show fall in a unique way.



This article is also available in the following languages: Thai

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    THANK YOU so much for the very useful information in the article. Everything is presented very clearly. It feels like a lot of work has been done to analyze the operation of the eBay store

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        What is valuable in your articles is your personal attitude and analysis of the topic. Don't give up this blog, I come here often. There should be a lot of us like that. Email me I recently received an email with an offer that they would teach me how to trade on Amazon and eBay. And I remembered your detailed articles about these trades. area I re-read everything again and concluded that the courses are a scam. I haven't bought anything on eBay yet. I am not from Russia, but from Kazakhstan (Almaty). But we also don’t need any extra expenses yet. I wish you good luck and stay safe in Asia.

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