Buying a boat is quite an expensive business. That is why many people are wondering how to make their own small and reliable boat. The process of creating a boat is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. However, it is quite painstaking and requires a lot of attention to detail.
The first and most important step is to determine what the vessel will be made of. There are not many options, let's look at them:
- Rubber based fabric. The final result is inflatable boat.
- Plastic.
- Steel.
- Tree.
- Plywood.
Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages that are immediately noticeable. But now we will talk about a boat made of wood.
Having decided on the material, you can move on to the next stages of planning and preparation.
Manufacturing Features
There are really a lot of features, so let's look at them in detail:
- Working with wood. First and main feature– ability to work with wooden structures and with wood in particular. You need to understand which boards are best to choose, how to bend them correctly, what loads a particular material can withstand. Before starting work, it is best to prepare and read books on woodworking. They are very easy to find and are freely available on the Internet.
- Selection of materials for assembly. In addition to wood, you must immediately decide on other materials that will help hold the boat together and protect it from leaks. They must be suitable for the material that has been chosen and interact well with it.
- Assembly location. Manufacturing will definitely require a lot of space and time. For professionals, manufacturing and assembly can take from 4 to 10 days, depending on the complexity. A beginner will need several times more time. This is why it is important to choose a dry and comfortable place.
- Tools. To facilitate and speed up the process, you will need a number of tools (which we will look at later). In addition, it is advisable to have an extra pair of hands during some stages of assembly.
These are the main features you need to know, but as you progress, you will likely encounter others.
Drawing of a boat from boards for self-production
Deciding on the sizes
One of the most important stages at the planning stage. The size determines the capacity, load capacity and weight. It is very important to maintain the correct dimensions so that the boat is stable on the water.
They can be changed at your discretion, but within reason:
- Length of the entire structure. The length can vary from two to four meters. If the vessel is designed for one, then the length should be 1.8 - 2.5 meters. Two people – approximately 3 meters. Three people – 3.5 – 4 meters. A boat 3-4 meters long can easily support up to 5-6 people; the issue here is more about comfort.
- Width. Also one of the main criteria. Average widths are 1 – 1.5 meters. The greater the width, the more stable it is wonderful. On the other hand, the greater the width, the less maneuverability. It is necessary to find a middle ground. It is different for everyone depending on the person’s body, the load that will be transported, as well as the length of the entire structure.
- Side height. The average and recommended side height is 50 centimeters. Again, you can make it either higher or lower, depending on your desire.
It is based on these dimensions that it will be necessary to make all the details in the future. It is difficult to determine these dimensions by eye, so it is best to make a drawing for clarity.
Moving on to the drawings, we must immediately say that it is not necessary to have a talent for drawing. IN at the moment the drawing can be made without having similar skills online on the Internet. You can make a three-dimensional model that will meet all your requirements and desires.
In the drawing, in addition to the main dimensions, you need to immediately determine the dimensions of other, smaller, but no less important details. It is best to make drawings for them separately, so that you do not have to adjust them in the future.
Basic planes necessary for constructing a theoretical drawing of a boat hull Required materials and tools
Having dealt with all the theoretical issues, we move on to practice. Collecting all the tools and materials and preparing them for work is the final part of the preparation, so this process must be treated with special care.
Consider the list of tools and instruments that will be needed during assembly:
This is the main list of what will be useful during assembly. In addition, other tools may be useful in the process. For example, a hacksaw, a hammer, clamps, etc.
Selection of boards for lining the bottom of a punt boat Manufacturing process
Let's move on to the most interesting part, the manufacturing process. Let's present it in the form of step-by-step instructions.
There is no room for haste or shortcomings, so we do everything extremely carefully and clearly:
Boat testing
After creating and assembling the vessel, we move on to testing it.
You can test the boat in different ways, but the best number of stages is:
- The first waterproof test can be done in the yard. To do this, we turn the boat over and place it on some kind of support (chairs, benches, table). Next we pour it on large number water. To do this, it is best to use a hose and “water” for 5-10 minutes. After this, the boat can be turned over and checked to see if water has gotten inside.
- Now, knowing that the schooner does not allow water to pass through, you can proceed to access to deep water. More precisely, try it in action. It is strongly recommended not to swim to great depths for the first half hour, because if something is done wrong and the boat begins to quickly take on water, it is much easier to get it out of the shallows.
It is strongly recommended not to swim to great depths for the first half hour. Let's look at a few tips that may be useful to a beginner in the difficult task of designing and assembling:
- When assembling, do not spare materials. For example, when fastening the sides to the bottom of a boat, it is worth spending extra time, but go tightly over all joints with glue or resin. It will be very difficult to correct such errors in the future.
- Do it with reserve. Excess parts of everything can be removed, for example, by sawing off a block in the bow of the boat. This also applies to all other details.
- Before using large nails or screws, it is advisable to make holes for them using a drill. This will prevent cracks from appearing.
- Don't skimp on materials. How better quality wood, the longer and better it will serve in the future.
I have long wanted to create a record marking the main points in the manufacture of a boat, but it never worked out! Dad is getting older every year, but there are still no cheat sheets, although he and I have put together more than one pair of boats... And this year there was a need to expand our fleet, because the children are growing up and boats are required that are more stable and load-bearing, for reliability movement. I myself used to swim to the surface, but with my sons I have to be careful about this! The time has come to take out the previously stored boards, edge them, plan them, prepare nails, and one weekend we get down to business! (It’s better to use spruce boards, without knots, but you don’t always have what you need)
First of all, Dad sketched out a small drawing with dimensions, based on the requirements and previous construction projects
Then they laid out the boards for the bottom, drew a contour on them according to the dimensions, cut out the main parts with a jigsaw, leaving only the edges, this can be seen in the photographs.
When adjusting the boards to one another, we leave gaps in the stern and in the bow, but in the middle we fit them more or less tightly
When all the parts are prepared, we begin assembling the bottom, first tightly assembling the boards, sewing them with nails in the middle with a cross member, then using a rope and two crowbars we pull together the stern, sew them together with nails, and do the same with the bow
Due to the fact that the crossbars are rounded, and gaps were left between the boards in the bow and stern, when screeding and assembling, the bottom turns out to be a bit of a sphere both across and lengthwise. In the future, this gives the boat stability on the water. It is not necessary to adjust and tighten the bottom boards to microns, small cracks are quite acceptable, this will make it easier to caulk the bottom.
When the bottom is assembled, we line out the edges according to the planned dimensions and markings so that the edges are smooth, otherwise it will not be possible to bend the side boards clearly
The most interesting thing is ahead, you need to bend the sides on both sides at the same time, if bending one by one can warp and the boat will turn out to be skewed. We apply the side board to the bow on one side and sew it on, then do the same on the other side, then one presses it, bending the boards, the second pierces it with nails towards the stern.
The boards were tied together in the same way as the bottom - with a rope. As a result, some kind of shape was drawn, then it’s easier. We bend the second row of side boards in the same way. We don’t hit a lot of nails when stitching because we still have to caulk! Next, we saw off the excess ends of the boards, both the side boards and the bow and stern. Then you adjust the front bow board.
After completing the assembly, you work with a plane, rounding where necessary, leveling it, going through the entire longboat, cutting out the frames beautifully. After making it beautiful, we caulk it, add nails in places, screw the rowlocks, resin the bottom, nail the strips to the bottom, resin them, then paint. We also make seats and paint them as you like. Our oars are transferable, we change boats, but the oars are the same. The oarlocks on all our boats are the same, so there are no problems.
In principle, I tried to take into account all the stages and subtleties in the photograph, so that it would be clear. Two boats have now been put together, one for the opening, the second just recently. The boats were made identically, one was tested, the second was at the stage of completion of work.
If anyone has any questions, please ask, I’ll be sure to clarify! Truth questions usually arise when self-production, suddenly someone will take it and make a piece of wood. For those who live near the lake, a piece of wood is irreplaceable!
Thank you for your attention!
Drawings and photos
Here I will describe the process of building a boat. The fact is that many are interested in how to build a boat themselves and therefore I think that my own experience someone might find it useful. I will try to describe everything in detail. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to answer.
About preparation for boat construction.
The production of such combined boats in our village located on the river is very common, although there are a lot of purchased boats - “Kazanok”, “Progress” and the like. However, these boats are most often used with motors, while rowing or rowing boats are mostly homemade. And most of them are combined - made of wood and galvanized steel. The fact is that such a boat does not require as much care as a purely wooden boat, which needs to be prepared for navigation every spring - putty, tar, paint. I remember how, as a child, I had to do this with my grandfather before letting him down wooden boat to the water.
I myself made my first boat about 10 years ago and, although it was not very well made, it turned out to be very light and reliable when sailing. Then I put together a boat from leftover materials that I found near my house, which I was just renovating. The boat is still running, although it has begun to leak a little, and the wooden parts have rotted here and there. All these years the boat was on the water in the summer and on the shore in the winter, turned upside down.
This year, the materials (bars, boards) for the boat were brought to me (and absolutely free) by the organizers when they learned that I was going to build a boat again and would not mind participating in this competition. 4 six-meter boards 150 mm wide, two of which were already planed on both sides (thickness 18 mm), the other two edged boards 25 mm thick and 2 bars, also 6 meters long, 50x50, unplaned, were delivered back in April. I put them on pads in the workshop; To allow the material to dry out gradually, leave the door to the street open from time to time.
I had stored the material for the frames even earlier - I selected spruce boards (about 80 cm long) from the wood scraps that I buy every year for heating. From these scraps I sawed short (half a meter to 1 meter long) smooth boards 120x30 and blocks 50x30 mm on a circular saw and passed them through an electric jointer. They also gradually dried on a rack in the workshop.
I have galvanized iron left over from roof repairs; although it is a bit thick (0.9 mm). It would, of course, be possible to use thinner iron (0.5 mm would be enough) and then the boat would turn out even lighter. However, buy new material I didn’t want to (why carry extra costs, if the existing hardware is lying idle?)
The construction of the boat began with markings. I went ashore and carefully measured both of my old boats again and wrote down the main dimensions so that I could stick to them when making the new one. The length was reduced by 10 cm compared to the old carbasque. The maximum width of the bottom was also reduced by 5 cm compared to motor boat. But I made the height of the sides a little larger; added 4 cm. So, here are the dimensions of the new boat: maximum length - 4.3 m, bottom length - 3.4 m, maximum width 1.14 m, height - 0.46 m. The boat turned out to be much lighter than previous ones.
I can’t tell you the weight, since there are no special scales for weighing the boat. But wooden frame The boat weighs only 18 kg. I determined this by weighing it on an ordinary 20-kilogram household steelyard. The sheet metal added weight, but nevertheless, with one hand I can lift the bow or stern of the boat and can easily pull the whole thing ashore and turn it upside down alone. This is important when the boat needs to be removed winter storage or when you need to take shelter under a boat from bad weather while fishing.
I did not build any special slipway. And I didn’t make any drawings with calculations or a table of plaza ordinates either. Yes, to be honest, I don’t know how to draw these drawings and then build a boat based on them. It may seem funny to some, but it is true. But our ancestors somehow managed without drawings and nothing, they built and sailed.... In general, the boat was built in the workshop on the floor, if necessary, it was lifted and placed on a chair and stool.
Hunting and fishing are a favorite pastime of many men. Sitting with a fishing rod early in the morning in the reeds is a special romance for a fisherman.
Vehicles for fishing, and just for walking, are used in different ways - rubber, aluminum, boats made of PVC and even plywood.
You can buy absolutely any watercraft, if only you had the money, but how can you make a boat with your own hands? We'll tell you in our article.
Plywood boat
A homemade plywood boat is very light, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.
The most important preparatory point in construction is the boat drawings. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to waste time and effort on remaking and adjusting the product.
Calculations
We offer you one of the payment options. By transferring the drawings to paper, we will receive templates for all the necessary parts of the boat in life size. Now we can “cut out” our product and cut out the blanks with a jigsaw. Once you have all the cut out parts, you can start gluing.
First of all, we connect the load-bearing structural elements, the transom (cut of the aft part) and the frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.
To connect all parts, use epoxy resin and fiberglass tape. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but will also create a waterproof seam.
Assembling the boat
Having secured the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to strengthening the angles between the sides and the bottom. They do this with wooden corners, then proceed to sealing the seams.
To obtain suture material, epoxy resin and Aerosil are mixed in equal proportions. Next, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.
Once the entire structure has dried, you can attach the seats. If the boat has a motor, we attach the transom and bow cover.
The outer part of the boat also needs processing; it is necessary to glue all the external seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, and sand the surface after drying. Then prime and paint.
Repairing damage to a PVC inflatable boat
If you already have an inflatable boat and you actively use it, then you probably often experience leaks due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. Restoring a PVC boat is not at all difficult; it is easy to do in spartan conditions and even on the water.
Of course, to get a better result, you need to have time and do better repairs in a workshop. When fixing a leak, the glue dries, ideally, for 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat within a day.
If the boat was repaired on the water, upon return it is necessary to redo everything, since a patch glued hastily and without proper technology will not last long.
If a puncture occurs while fishing or hunting, use only the repair kit included with the boat.
Boat overhaul
For overhaul boats you need:
- Repair kit (included with the boat);
- Scissors;
- Roller;
- Pencil;
- Solvent promoting degreasing;
- Brush for adhesive.
Cut out a rounded patch from spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.
Pay attention!
Spread the area to be repaired on a flat surface, clean it from dirt and degrease it with a solvent. Place the patch over the hole and trace with a pencil, coat both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.
After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and again give time to dry. After 5 minutes, the restoration itself can begin. Touch the surface of the patch with your finger; it should stick slightly.
Then, to activate the adhesive surface, you need to heat the patch itself and the puncture site; a hairdryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.
Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the adhesive side, and carefully expel all the air and iron the patch with a roller. Then leave it to dry for at least one day.
In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot on buying or repairing a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.
Pay attention!
DIY boat photo
Pay attention!
A wooden boat is not a cheap pleasure. But if you're willing to put in the work, you can create your own. river transport with your own hands, saving a decent amount.
Prepare a diagram or drawing indicating dimensions. Perhaps in your browser’s search engine for the request “wooden boat diagram”, among the proposed options you will find a suitable one, otherwise you will have to either combine the found options, or calculate it yourself, or seek help from a specialist. Based on the drawing, clearly determine the amount of materials needed. For the sides, choose high-quality pine or spruce boards - wide and long, without knots or cracks. Before building a boat, these boards must lie for a year on a flat, dry surface under pressure. Immediately before work, carefully inspect each board for defects. Start creating the bow of the boat:- Measure the required length of the board, saw off the edge on the nose side at an angle of 45°, and plan it. Bevel the sawn edges so that when you press, there is no gap between these boards. Coat these ends with a protective antiseptic.
- Make the base of the “bow” of the boat - triangular block(its length more height boats one and a half times). The block must be planed and treated with an antiseptic.
- Assemble the “bow” of the boat: lubricate the two sides and the base block with wood glue, firmly fasten them with nails or self-tapping screws.
- File off any excess excess at the top and bottom.
- Install the spacer in the right place, helpers slowly bend the side boards using a rope, and you apply the edges of the boards to the back board blank and make marks on them where and how much to chamfer so that all parts are connected without gaps, then remove the chamfer and try it on again. Adjust it several times to eliminate any gaps.
- Treat the joints with an antiseptic, fasten the sides with wood glue, as well as nails or screws.
- Saw off the excess at the bottom of the rear side, shape its top (arc, triangle, trapezoid, straight).
- Install permanent braces and seats. Before fastening them, you need to make holes in the sides with a small drill, this will prevent cracks from appearing.
- For the bottom you will need a galvanized sheet. Place the boat bottom down on it, circle with a marker with a margin of 1.5 cm and cut out with metal scissors.
- Turn the boat upside down, chamfer the sides and spacers on the side adjacent to the bottom. Treat the edges with an antiseptic. Wait until impregnation and wood glue will dry out.
- Apply continuously to the underside of the boards. silicone sealant, lay special threads or tow on it in two rows, this will protect against leakage.
- Lay and level the cut metal blank of the bottom and attach it with galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails (1.8x32), moving from the middle of the boat to the edges.
- In places where the metal protrudes more than 5 mm, trim off the excess. Tap along the entire perimeter with a hammer, bending the sheet onto the side. Also protect the bow of a homemade boat with tin, having previously treated it with sealant and laid the thread.