Several years ago, the plant gained enormous popularity, because thanks to its unusual appearance, echmea always looks very decorative and original. All its species grow well indoors and tolerate dry air and bright lighting perfectly.
Echmea grows well both in living rooms and in many offices - it does not require any special conditions. So even the most inexperienced owners of home “greenhouses” can cope with this plant.
This genus belongs to the bromeliad family and includes 170 species. The plant is found in central and southern America. In its natural environment, it prefers brightly lit places with a dry climate. Both epiphytic and terrestrial species grow. The vegetative shoots that appear take root easily.
Types of echmea
Homeland Brazil. Leaves are up to 50 cm long, linear-xiphoid, leathery, copper-red in color. There are small spikes along the edge. Compound inflorescence 15 cm, which is located at the top of a peduncle up to 0.5 m long. Bracts are red in color, sessile flowers up to 2.5 cm long. The flowering period is from March to August and occasionally in October. You can use hydroponics.
Billbergia Striped (Aechmea. fasciata)
In other words, Billbergia is striped. Grows in tropical forests on the slopes of the mountains of Brazil. Belt-shaped leaves are 50-60 cm long and 5 cm wide, collected in a tubular rosette. Along the edge they are densely covered with spines. The erect peduncle is completely covered with scales. Complex pyramidal inflorescence up to 30 cm long. The bracts are pink. The flowers are pubescent, with blue petals. The closer to the top, the more red they become. Creeping stems on which shoots appear for reproduction.
Bright green leaves that form a dense rosette at the base. A cream stripe is clearly visible along the edge. Golden flowers are collected in a paniculate inflorescence on a long peduncle. The entire surface of the peduncle is covered with a fine white coating. Sometimes gardeners mistake this for powdery mildew.
In its natural environment it is found on the mountain slopes of Brazil and Uruguay as a terrestrial and epiphytic plant. The leaves are collected in a rosette of 7 to 12 pieces. Linear, belt-like leaves are 0.4 m long and up to 2 cm wide, with a smooth surface. Capitate inflorescence 20 cm long. Petals and bracts are red in color, flowering period is April - May.
Grows on the mountain slopes of Brazil. The rosette consists of densely collected leaves up to 1 m long and up to 5 cm wide. There are small denticles along the edge. Spike-shaped inflorescence of several rows. The flowers are bright yellow, the bracts are red. Blooms in winter.
Also called Platyechmea biseriata. Prefers tropical rainforests of Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, Bolivia. It is found at an altitude of 900 m above sea level on hard rocky slopes. The leaves are up to 0.5 m long, belt-like, collected in a loose spreading rosette. Along the edges of the leaf blade there are small spines on a dark brown background. Purple flowers and bright red bracts. Used as an epiphytic and terrestrial plant.
A funnel-shaped rosette consisting of dense leaves of light green color. Narrow leafy platinum up to 50 cm long and 2 cm wide, purple underneath. There are a large number of scales along the edge. There are varieties with different variegated colors in a combination of red, green and purple. An erect peduncle, at the top of which there is a pyramid-shaped inflorescence. Bright red flowers with blue petals. Long flowering and quite resistant to temperature changes and watering.
Sparkling (A. fulgens)
Homeland - the tropics of Brazil. A dense rosette consisting of leaves 40 cm long and 5-6 wide, rounded at the end. There are small teeth along the edges. The leaves are uniform green in color. A large number of flowers are coral-red, blue at the top, pink bracts.
Description: The leaves are belt-shaped and pointed at the end. Small spines are visible along the edges. Variegated or uniform color of the leaves is dark green, leathery to the touch, extending from the center of a well-defined rosette. There are hard and soft leaves. In the middle of the rosette, a straight thick peduncle sprouts, with an inflorescence head at the end. The stems are short. Flowers and inflorescences come in different shapes and colors, it all depends on the type of echmea. The fruit is in the form of a berry. Each time after flowering, the rosette dies.
Lighting: Echmea loves the sun and feels great on windowsills facing south. However, if the rays of the sun are too bright, you should move the flower to a more secluded place - a shelf near the window is quite suitable for this purpose. If it is not possible to provide your pet with such a secluded corner, try to cover the window with a transparent curtain - this is enough. Aechmea also grows well in semi-shade, optimal windows with access to the southeast or southwest.
After purchase, or at the beginning of summer, when there are few direct rays of the sun, the plant is gradually accustomed to bright lighting, taken to the balcony. The flower constantly needs an influx of fresh air; ventilate the room regularly.
Temperature: Make sure that the air temperature does not fall below 18°C. If you do not follow this rule, the plant will die. In the summer, you can take the pot to the balcony or outside. The optimal summer temperature is 20-27 °C. Fresh air will perfectly strengthen and nourish it with useful substances. Keeping it at low temperatures has a beneficial effect on the growth of the peduncle.
Tolerates temperature changes up to 16 °C at night. Depending on the species, the flower needs moderate humidity, or it prefers a dry climate.
Watering: But here there is a little trick. First you need to pour some water inside the rosette of leaves and only after that you can start watering the soil. Do not save water - Aechmea loves moist soil, especially in the hot season. By the way, constantly pay attention to the funnels of the leaves - in the warm season there should always be water there. During the cold period, or immediately after flowering, moisture should be removed from the rosettes, otherwise the echmea will begin to rot and quickly die. And make sure that the water for irrigation is well settled and slightly lukewarm.
Humidity: In summer it thrives in dry and warm air. In winter, you will have to systematically spray the leaves, especially if the heating is on in the room. If you do not have the opportunity to carry out this procedure every day, place the container with echmea in a bowl with fine gravel and pour water into it. Although Aechmea can easily tolerate dry indoor conditions, it prefers a humid climate.
Soil and replanting: The plant must be replanted once a year; rosettes that have faded once are removed.
The soil for echmea should be special: 2 parts turf soil, 2 parts leaf soil, 1 part sand, 1 part humus. You can add a little moss or charcoal to the soil - Aechmea likes this kind of soil.
Fertilizer: Approximately once a month it needs fertilizing. Try to mix fertilizers with water for irrigation, but just don’t give the whole portion - half is enough. And don’t even think about adding fertilizer to the rosettes of leaves (as some inexperienced gardeners advise) - such a procedure can ruin your pet.
For quick flowering, place the plant under a transparent plastic bag, or a mini greenhouse along with several ripe apples. When apples rot, ethylene gas is released, which encourages bromeliads to bloom. After 3-4 months, the echmea will bloom.
Reproduction: The plant is propagated in two ways: seeds and suckers. The latter is simpler and more effective.
Offshoots: In March, young offshoots, due to the appearance of a sufficient number of leaves, easily form roots. The offspring are separated from the mother plant. The cut area is sprinkled with charcoal to prevent rotting.
The soil consists of leaf (2 parts), peat (1 part), sand (1 part). Another option for preparing the substrate: equal proportions of leaf soil, humus, sphagnum (moss), with the addition of a little sand and household shards.
By seeds: For seed propagation, loose soil based on peat or sphagnum is used as soil. After sowing, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of 24-25 degrees and constant high air humidity. To do this, the container is placed in a mini greenhouse. Water generously. But exposure to direct sunlight is unacceptable.
After 3 months they will appear, the seedlings are planted in separate containers, using soil from leaf and heather soil, taken in equal proportions.
Young shoots are kept at a temperature of 20-22 degrees with high air humidity, not forgetting regular spraying.
A year later, the grown plants are transplanted into a pot using a substrate for adult plants and appropriate care.
Flowering: It all depends on the type of echmea and lasts from May to the end of August. For example, Weilbach, Luddeman, bract, curved, Chantina bloom from April to May. Ordanda, striped, bare-stemmed - flowering period is summer months. There are varieties that bloom in winter: shaggy, sky blue. From the beginning of sowing to the moment of flowering, at least 1.5 years pass. The inflorescence consists of bracts and small flowers. Under natural conditions, the plant blooms only at 4-5 years of age, but flowering can be achieved artificially, but for a weak young flower this procedure is not advisable.
The catalyst for flowering is ethylene gas, which comes from ripe apples and citrus fruits. It is enough to place several fruits nearby and cover loosely with transparent film for 2 weeks. After 3 months, the echmea will bloom.
Another way to stimulate peduncle growth is to place a small piece of calcium carbide in a funnel. When interacting with water in the funnel, the same gas is released. As for any epiphyte, for example an orchid, flowering is quite stressful and the weak epiphyte dies after flowering.
Sometimes, with strong daily temperature changes, such stress occurs and the echmea blooms.
Precautions: Aechmea leaves are slightly poisonous and have needles on the surface. When juice gets on the skin, itching and inflammation appear. Be careful if there are small children or animals in the house, limit access to the flower.
Difficulties in care
- The first flowering at 4-5 years of age is considered a normal process. It can only be achieved faster artificially.
- Excessive watering of water into the rosette leads to its rotting, especially at low temperatures, or after flowering.
- The appearance of root rot is caused by excess moisture and heavy soil.
- Light leaves - excessive lighting.
- Brown spots on the surface of the leaf plate are burns from direct sunlight.
- Wrinkled leaves or dry tips indicate insufficient watering and dry air.
Aechmea is a perennial herbaceous plant from the bromeliad family, which has more than 300 varieties. The homeland of Aechmea is considered to be South and Central America. The name “echmea” takes its roots from the Greek word “aechme”, [ehme] - the tip of a pike. The plant probably received this name because of the pointed, peak-shaped shape of the bracts.
All types of plants are heat-loving and prefer bright rooms. Reproduction of echmea can occur both by seeds and by “babies”. If the plant is grown from seeds, flowering will occur in the third year.
Plants of the genus Aechmea are epiphytes that form vegetative shoots and grow naturally in the forks of trees, crevices of stone embankments or rocks. The typical habitat for echmea is subtropical and tropical forests.
Most types of echmea are very beautiful plants that have received well-deserved recognition from flower growers.
The most common types of indoor Aechmea flower and photographs of these species
Echmea, despite the fact that its natural habitat is tropical and subtropical forests, grows and develops well in artificially created conditions. Let's look at the most popular types of echmea that can grow in a home flower garden.
In nature, it is found in the tropical forests of Brazil. Aechmea Weilbach is an epiphyte, has a goblet-shaped rosette of bright green, soft-skinned, sword-shaped leaves. This type of echmea blooms with complex racemose inflorescences. The peduncle and bract are usually red, and the flowers are lilac-blue. It usually blooms in spring, in April and May.
At home, it is better to place Weilbach's aechmea on the east or west side. In order for the plant to grow correctly, the winter temperature should be maintained at least +18 degrees, and the echmea should be watered evenly. You also need to provide the flower with good drainage.
Echmea Weilbach propagates both by division (during transplantation) and by seeds.
Species: Aechmea biseriata
It has two types: epiphyte and terrestrial. The leaf rosette can have a diameter of up to one meter, spreading, loose structure. The leaves of the double-rowed echmea have dark brown spines along the edges, the leaf itself is green, narrow, reaching up to 50 cm long with a width of 3 cm. The double-rowed echmea blooms with lilac flowers with bright red bracts. The peduncle of this plant is about 60 cm in size. In the two-row Aechmea variety “variegata”, white stripes run along the edges of the leaves.
This variety of echmea has narrow and long leaves that grow together into a tube and form a rosette. The leaves have small spines along the edges, but the main part of the leaf is smooth. Aechmea curved has very beautiful inflorescences, in which both the petals and the bract are most often bright red. As a rule, the inflorescence is located 15-20 cm above the rosette of leaves.
It is also known as Aechmea Linden. The leaves of this species of echmea are long, sometimes reaching a length of 1 meter. The edges of the leaves are finely toothed. The leaves are densely arranged and form a rosette. Aechmea shaggy blooms in winter. The flowers are bright yellow and the bracts are red. The inflorescence is large, multi-row spike.
The "Makoyana" variety resembles the species "variegata": the leaves of this species also have white stripes.
Type - Aechmea matte red
One of the most hardy species of echmea in indoor conditions. Half-meter narrow leaves grow densely and form a funnel-shaped rosette. The color of the leaves is very interesting: they are light green above and have a faint purple tint below. The pointed tip of the leaves is short, tongue-shaped, with a slightly narrowed base. The pyramidal inflorescence is crowned with an erect peduncle, which is most often red. The flowers of matte red echmea are bicolor: light blue petals and matte red sepals. When pollinated, the plant produces small bright pink fruits.
This type of echmea has dense, belt-shaped, leathery leaves that create a tall, tube-shaped rosette. The color of the leaves is green, there are frequent small teeth along the edges, and a spine at the end of the leaf. The average leaf length is 40-50 cm, and the width is 5 cm.
The inflorescence of the plant is large, up to 30 cm long. Located on an erect peduncle. The shape of the inflorescence is capitate-pyramidal, the color of the inflorescence leaves is pink, glossy.
At the beginning of flowering, the flowers of striped echmea have bluish petals and felt-pubescent sepals, and over time they become blue-red.
A very interesting type of echmea. It differs in that the rosette of the plant is free, and it is formed from pale green leaves covered with a gray coating. The leaf length of this species reaches 40 cm, width - 4-6 cm. The leaf has a rounded top and sparsely set teeth along the edges.
Aechmea blooms with sparkling multiple inflorescences. The flowers are red, coral in color, slightly bluish at the top. The bracts are pink.
Caring for echmea at home
Aechmea grows well in both light and partial shade.
If you want to have some type of this very beautiful plant in your home flower garden, you need to know some subtleties and rules. With proper care, echmea will grow well and regularly delight you with flowering.
Lighting and watering indoor Aechmea plants
In terms of lighting, echmea is not too whimsical. The flower grows readily both in bright light and in partial shade. It is considered optimal to place pots with echmea on the east or west side. To choose the right lighting for echmea, you need to pay attention to the structure of its leaves. Plants with hard leaves prefer bright lighting, southern windows, and in summer they like to be on balconies. Aechmea species with soft leaves, on the contrary, prefer to grow in partial shade, with moderate lighting.
Aechmea plants need to be watered regularly to keep the soil moist at all times. When watering, water should first be poured into the sockets and then directly onto the soil. Water for watering echmea should be warm and soft.
In autumn, watering can be reduced, and in winter the funnel can be kept completely dry. But it should be remembered that prolonged drying is harmful for echmea.
Optimal temperature and humidity
The optimal temperature for growing echmea is 20-26 degrees Celsius
Since in nature, echmea grows in subtropical and tropical forests, it is thermophilic. For growing at home, the best air temperature in summer is from 20 to 26, and in winter - 17-18 degrees Celsius. Echmea loves differences in night and day temperatures, which also corresponds to the temperature regime in forests of the tropics and subtropics. The influx of fresh air also has a beneficial effect on the condition of the echmea.
Echmea is unpretentious in terms of air humidity. The plant tolerates dry air normally, but it would be better to provide the plant with slightly increased humidity. To do this, the flower pot can be placed on wet pebbles, and the plant itself can be sprayed with warm water every day, especially if the echmea is kept warm in winter.
Soil requirements
The optimal soil for most types of echmea is a mixture of humus, peat, turf and leaf soils, taken in equal parts. It is also good to add a little sand to this mixture. The best option for comfortable development and flowering of echmea would be a mixture of equal parts of compost, leaf soil, chopped moss, to which sand and crushed shards should be added. You can also grow echmea in a special mixture for bromeliads, which is sold in stores.
For good growth of echmea, you can make a substrate from finely chopped fern roots and sphagnum moss (3:1). Complex but high-quality soil for echmea can be obtained by mixing coarse leaf soil, high peat, sphagnum, and sand (1: 1: 1: 0.5, and to this soil mixture add pieces of charcoal and horn shavings. If you decide to grow echmea in such soil - remember that good drainage is required.
Various liquid fertilizers for bromeliad plants are suitable for echmea.
Fertilizers and fertilizing of echmea should be done in spring and summer. The frequency of the procedure is every 15-20 days. There are various liquid fertilizers for bromeliads on sale that are optimal for caring for echmea. You can also use any other fertilizer for flowering indoor plants, but the dose should be halved.
Aechmea flowering
Aechmea blooms from May to October. Each rosette blooms only once, after which the faded inflorescence must be removed. Soon after flowering, “babies” appear at the base of the echmea. They need to be transplanted from the mother plant as soon as they reach half its size.
Reproduction
Aechmea propagates by both shoots and seeds; new plants obtained from shoots (“babies”) begin to bloom within 1-3 years. But those echmeas that grew from seeds bloom for the first time later: after 3-4 years.
Reproduction by offspring. " It is customary to separate the children of Aechmea from the adult plant in March. They should not have roots, but there should already be a sufficient number of leaves. The places on the mother echmea from which the “babies” were cut should be sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried a little.
Propagation by seeds. Aechmea seeds are best sown in finely chopped fern roots or in a loose peat mixture. The optimal temperature is 25 degrees Celsius, with high humidity and in a shaded place. With proper care, after 2-3 months, seedlings can be planted in a special soil mixture, which consists of equal parts of heather and leaf soil. Next, for one year, new plants need proper care: regular spraying and a room temperature of at least 22 degrees Celsius. After a year, the echmea can be transplanted into a convenient pot and ordinary substrate.
Aechmea transplant
It is best to replant echmea annually. For comfortable growth of echmea, a flower pot should not be deep, but it is better if its diameter is not small. Basically, the container serves to give the flower a vertical position. After transplantation, it is necessary to help the plant restore its root system. To do this, the echmea should be kept in the shade and not watered for 2-3 days.
Watch a video on how to transplant echmea and separate the children from the mother plant.
Virulence
As a rule, Aechmea is non-poisonous. But one of its species, striped echmea, is slightly toxic. The poison is mainly contained in its leaves, so careless touching them can cause an inflammatory skin reaction.
Diseases, pests and flower care during this period
The most common cause of death of all types of echmea is improper watering or overwatering. It should be remembered that there should not be water in the plant outlet all the time. Otherwise, the echmea will rot. This will become obvious if the plant's leaves turn brown. But, besides this, the leaves of echmea can turn brown if the plant is cold.
If the plant has limp leaves, it means it does not have enough moisture. Dry leaf tips indicate that the surrounding air is too dry.
If your plant stubbornly refuses to bloom, it means it doesn’t have enough light. Most often, echmeas with variegated leaves behave this way. If there is insufficient light, the leaves of the plant may also lose their original color.
Pests that can damage echmea are root scale insects, root mites and aphids. It is very easy to get rid of them using commercially available insecticides.
Exotic echmea has certain requirements for conditions of detention. It is unlikely that a novice florist will be able to cope with growing this obstinate beauty. However, with proper care, this plant looks very impressive and grows well. And extraordinary flowers will delight both you and your family.
Appearance and other characteristic features of Echmea
Aechmea is a genus of perennial epiphytic plants belonging to the Bromeliaceae family. Aechmeas are close relatives of pineapples. The homeland of the vast majority of the currently known 270 species is Brazil, Mexico and islands in the Caribbean.
The genus owes its name to the unusual shape of the bracts. Translated from Greek, aechme means “spearhead.” Consonant aichme - “dot”, “dash”. Perhaps the name also refers to the presence of a pattern on the leaves of some species.
In nature, echmeas rarely grow on the ground. Being epiphytes, they attach to tree trunks and snags, releasing additional aerial roots to absorb moisture from the atmosphere.
The plant is a dense goblet-shaped rosette of smooth, succulent leaves, leathery, erect or soft, drooping. They are shaped like belts. Along the edge of the leaf blade there is a continuous border of fairly hard spines. You can also prick yourself on the tips of the petals. The stem is so short that it appears to be completely absent.
In nature, echmea leaves are covered with a silver-gray coating, similar to developed rot. These hairs also help absorb moisture from the air. At home, they are almost invisible, especially if the flower is in the shade. During the rainy season, water that stagnates in the outlet for a long time mixes with wind-borne plant debris, insect larvae, and organic residues. As a result, “suspended swamps” are formed on the trees, in which plants and even small amphibians settle and successfully exist. The bromeliad crab has adapted well to breeding in such a reservoir.
A long peduncle emerges from the middle of the rosette. It may be covered with scales. The color of both the leaf plate and the flowers varies depending on the type of plant, but this does not affect the overall decorativeness of the echmea. It is invariably beautiful, regardless of whether the leaves are plain or have a pattern on them.
The inflorescence of echmea is spike-shaped or panicle-shaped. The sepals are covered with short soft “lint”. Between them are protruding bracts, painted in bright shades of pink and red. Small flowers are “hidden” in them. In nature, echmeas bloom from late spring to mid-autumn; at home, flowers can appear in winter. They quickly wither, leaving only the bracts.
After flowering, the rosette dies. But before death, the echmea necessarily produces offspring in the form of several daughter rosettes formed alternately. They take root easily, so there is no shortage of planting material. We can rather predict its excess. Aechmea seeds can also be successfully propagated at home. After flowering, a berry is formed.
The leaves of one of the most popular species in indoor floriculture, striped echmea, contain moderately poisonous juice, which can cause irritation and redness if the skin on the hands is overly sensitive. To avoid damage, wear rubber gloves when working with flowers.
Recently, there has been a fashion to give echmea as a “living bouquet”. If you decide to purchase such a gift, choose a plant in which the entire peduncle and bracts have acquired the characteristic shade of the variety. Otherwise the flowers will not bloom.
Video about the plant
Types grown at home
Quite a few different types of echmea have been “domesticated”. The most popular:
- Aechmea striped (Fasciata, fasciata). The height of the rosette is about 50 cm, the diameter is about 1 m. The leaf length is 60 cm, width is 6–7 cm. The flowers are initially purple, then change color to blue-scarlet. The popular Primera hybrid has a more contrasting pattern and crisp stripes.
- Aechmea Weilbachii (weilbachii). The leaves are leathery, but soft, about 50 cm long. The spines are quite small and not at all hard. The slight reddish tint of the leaf is normal. The peduncle is covered with crimson scales. Along the edge of the bluish-lilac petals there is a snow-white border. The length of the inflorescence is about 15 cm.
- Aechmea two-row (distichantha). The rosette is wide, not too dense. It reaches 0.8–1 m in diameter. The spines on the leaves are chocolate-colored and are located very often. Compared to the length (50 cm), the width is small (3–4 cm). The leaves are monochromatic, but there is a breeding hybrid Variegata, which has a wide border of a creamy shade along the edge.
- Aechmea curved (recurvata). In nature it can exist both as an epiphyte and as a terrestrial plant. There are few leaves in the rosette (7–12 pieces), length - 35–40 cm, width 1.5–2 cm. They grow together from below, forming a “glass stem”. The height of the peduncle is no more than 25 cm. This species, unlike most of its “relatives,” blooms in the spring. There is a miniature natural variety of Ortgiesii (rosette height no more than 15 cm).
- Aechmea shaggy (comata), or Linden (lindenii). The length of the leaf is about 1 m with a width of 5–7 cm. At the top, the leaf plate does not become pointed, but is rounded. The flowers are a sunny yellow color, unusual for Aechmea. In nature it blooms in winter. The Makoyana hybrid has leaves with a pattern of cream stripes.
- Aechmea matte red (miniata). The rosette is assembled from many leaves. The leaf length is about 45 cm, width - 2–3 cm. At the base, the leaves are inky purple, then this shade gradually turns into a dark green color. The peduncle is bright scarlet. The inflorescence is shaped like a pyramid. The species is distinguished by its flowering duration, unpretentiousness and endurance.
- Echmea tailed, or bearded (caudata). The leaves are rigid, growing almost horizontally, at a slight angle. There is a yellowish stripe along the edge of the leaf blade. The inflorescence is panicle-shaped. The peduncle is covered with a whitish coating, as if sprinkled with flour.
- Aechmea Lueddemaniana. The leaves on both sides are covered with small light scales. Length - 55–60 cm. Peduncle height - about 70 cm. It is covered with thin translucent leaves. The lower ones fit tightly to it, the upper ones bend slightly. The bluish-pink petals gradually change color to crimson.
- Aechmea sky blue, or blue (coelestis). The number of leaves in the funnel varies from 9 to 20. Leaf length is 65 cm, width is 3–5 cm. The peduncle and inflorescence are covered with white “fluff”. Blooms at the beginning of winter.
- Aechmea Orlanda (orlandiana). A creation of nature, although it’s hard to believe. The leaf length is about 35 cm, width - 4–5 cm. The leaves are covered with scales, the spines along the edge are almost black. The peduncle is bright scarlet. More demanding of heat than other echmeas. In nature, the species is considered extinct, surviving only “in captivity.”
- Aechmea Chantina (chantinii). The length of the leaf, depending on the conditions, reaches 0.5–1 m. There are few of them in the rosette. Due to the fact that the leaves stand almost vertically, it resembles a cylinder. The peduncle is covered with bright scarlet leaves and seems to be sprinkled with flour.
- Aechmea Queen Mary (mariae-reginae). One of the most spectacular, but extremely rare. The plant has specimens with “male” and “female” flowers. In nature, pollen is carried by hummingbirds; at home, artificial pollination is required. The cone-shaped inflorescence is about 50 cm long and covered with soft white “hairs”. The bracts also reach significant sizes - 20 cm in length.
In nature, echmeas suffer little from cold and prolonged droughts. Much more harm comes to them from people who cut down tropical forests for mining, timber harvesting, and planting crops. In many countries of South America, certain species of echmea are included in the Red Books or lists.
Species diversity in the photo
Aechmea Chantin has an unusual rosette configuration 
Aechmea Orlanda - a spectacular creation of nature 
Aechmea sky blue blooms in winter - unlike most of its “relatives” 
Echmea Luddemana changes the shade of its petals during flowering 
A whitish coating on the peduncle of Aechmea caudatus is normal 
When you look at the flower, it’s immediately clear why the matte red echmea was called that way 
Aechmea shaggy flowers have a color unusual for the genus. 
Aechmea curved takes up relatively little space 
Aechmea two-row - a base for experiments by breeders 
The leaves of Aechmea Weilbach may appear slightly red. 
Aechmea striped is the most common species in home floriculture.
At home, the echmea is accustomed to a microclimate that is significantly different from the conditions of a modern apartment. It will not be possible to completely recreate the desired conditions for a flower without harm to those living in the room, but it is quite possible to provide an acceptable environment. It is necessary to approach the solution of the problem comprehensively - each of the factors is equally important.
| Factor | Recommendations |
| Location | A window sill facing western or eastern direction is suitable. If there is no space there, place the flower at the back of the room, but in such a way as to provide access to fresh air. In the summer, you can take the pot out into the open air, gradually accustoming it to a change in its environment. Take care of protection from drafts and precipitation. |
| Lighting | The plant must be protected from direct sunlight and provided with 14–16 hours of daylight. For protection, a light translucent fabric or blinds is sufficient. A special phytolamp is placed at a distance of 30–50 cm above the pot, turning it on in cloudy weather and in winter. Variegatedly colored echmeas require more light; species with monochromatic leaves will tolerate light partial shade. |
| Temperature | In spring and summer, the temperature is maintained at +22...+28 ºС, in winter it is lowered to +19...+21 ºС. 17 ºС is the survival threshold of echmea. Significant differences between day and night temperatures in winter stimulate the development of peduncles. |
| Humidity | The factor is not critical for growing echmea. It survives in the dry air of modern apartments without additional measures. But in order for the flower to grow faster, it is recommended to spray it daily with heated water, place other plants nearby, add expanded clay or pebbles to the tray, followed by periodic wetting. However, in Aechmea curved, when there is a lack of light and high humidity, the leaves fade. |
How to transplant echmea?
Aechmeas need to be replanted every spring, during March. The pot annually increases in diameter by a maximum of 1–2 cm. You can also take a container of the same size. This is due to the fact that faded echmea rosettes inevitably die off. The root system of the plant is underdeveloped, so it is better to choose pots that look like a bowl. A prerequisite is the presence of a large drainage hole.
On sale there is a special soil for Bromeliads or orchids. You can add crushed sphagnum moss or small pieces of charcoal to it, and it is quite suitable for growing echmea. If you want to mix the substrate yourself, use one of the following options:
- Fertile garden turf (top 15–20 cm of soil), universal soil for indoor plants, leaf humus, coarse river sand or perlite, vermiculite (2:2:1:1).
- Humus, crushed sphagnum moss, leaf soil (1:1:1). A useful additive is fine crumbs from old red bricks.
- Peat chips, sand or vermiculite, crushed fir bark (1:1:1).
More exotic options are finely chopped fern rhizomes and sphagnum moss (3:1) or crushed conifer bark and charcoal (equal parts) to a powder.
Transplant procedure:
- Place a 2–3 cm thick layer of drainage on the bottom of the pot (about a third of the container’s volume). On top - 1–2 cm of substrate.
- Remove the echmea from the old pot and gently shake the soil from the roots. Trim dead rosettes and dry roots.
- Sprinkle all sections with powdered activated carbon and let dry for 2–3 hours. Place the plant in a new pot, add soil without compacting it. You can distribute it evenly by shaking the pot several times.
- Place the transplanted echmea in the shade for 2–3 days. The first watering is after returning to the “place of registration”.
In principle, the interval between transplants can be increased to 2 years, provided that an optimal microclimate is created for the plant, proper watering and regular application of fertilizers. Focus on the appearance of the echmea. If there is no deterioration in it, postpone the transplant.
Proper flower care
Watering
Proper watering is critical for the aechmea to feel comfortable. Depending on the temperature outside and indoors during the active growing season, the flower is watered moderately every 2-3 days. In extreme heat, the leaves on both sides are sprayed daily, water is poured not only into the soil, but also into the funnel (it evaporates in 3-4 days). Aechmea categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture, so 20–30 minutes after watering, excess water is drained from the pan.
Only soft, settled water is suitable for echmea. It is advisable to pass the one that flows from the tap through a filter. If this is not possible, throw a few citric acid crystals into the container. The water is heated so that its temperature is slightly higher than in the room.
Fertilizer application
During the active growing season, echmea is fed with complex fertilizer for Bromeliads, strictly observing the dosage prescribed by the manufacturer, or with universal products for flowering indoor plants in half the concentration.
How to make echmea bloom?
In nature, a new rosette of Aechmea blooms in 4–5 years. But at home, flowering can be achieved faster or “moved” to any convenient time.
To do this, place the pot with the plant in a loosely tied plastic bag, placing next to it several apples, pears, and bananas cut into pieces. Waste - peels, cores - will also work. Ripe fruits release ethylene, which stimulates flowering. After 1.5–2 weeks, the echmea is returned to its original place. Flowers will appear in about 4 months.
Blooming amazing echmea - video
Rest period
The rest period in Aechmea is rather weakly expressed; some species do without it altogether. For the winter, the plant is moved to a cooler, but also bright room, and only the soil in the pot is watered once every 5–7 days. No water is poured into the funnel. Fertilizers are applied approximately once every 1.5 months. You can spray the surrounding air, but not more than once a week.
Secrets and subtleties of care - video
Typical mistakes of flower growers
The echmea immediately signals that something in the actions of the florist does not suit her by changing her appearance. It is important to learn to “read” the signs given to her and respond correctly to them.
Common problems when growing echmea - table
| Description of the problem | What is the reason? |
| Leaves turn brown and dry out | If the discoloration spreads from the tips, the room is too cold; if from the base of the leaf, the echmea has begun to rot (the reason is abundant watering in combination with low temperature). |
| No flowering | In variegated species, the most likely cause is a lack of light. At the same time, as a rule, the leaves begin to fall. Single-color echmeas need to be fed more often or more suitable fertilizers are selected. |
| Plain leaves fade, the pattern disappears | The plant received sunburn. Choose a place for it protected from direct sunlight. |
| The leaves lose their tone, become wrinkled, droop, and the tips dry out. | Echmea lacks moisture. This may also apply to air humidity and too infrequent watering. |
| Leaves turn yellow | Aechmea was planted in an unsuitable substrate that does not allow moisture and air to pass through well. Another possible reason is a shortage of fertilizers or a pest attack. |
How to deal with diseases and pests?
Aechmea pests are typical of indoor plants and are familiar to most gardeners with at least minimal experience. There is no need to remove any insects “brought” by the flower from its historical homeland.
Diseases and pests typical for Aechmea - table
| Disease or pest | External manifestations | How to get rid of and prevent its occurrence? |
| Insects of different colors (from pale green to almost black) adhere to the leaves from below, feeding on the sap of the plant. The leaves become deformed, curl, turn yellow and fall off. At the same time, a sugary, cloudy liquid appears. | Visible pests are wiped off with a soft cloth soaked in 40% ethyl alcohol or acetic acid, a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then thick soap suds are applied to the leaves and after half an hour the flower is given a hot (40–45 ºC) shower. When the water has drained, the echmea is sprayed with an insecticide (Neoron, Aktara, Karate, Inta-Vir, FAS, Decis) and tied in a bag for 2-3 days. Chemicals can be replaced with turpentine or kerosene (0.5 teaspoon per liter of water), placing the container next to the pot and covering them with a bag. A good preventative measure is weekly spraying with infusions of any herbs that have a strong specific odor, tobacco chips, dry citrus peel, hot pepper. |
|
| Shchitovka | The leaves are covered with brownish or grayish growths in the shape of an ellipse. At first they are almost flat, but quickly swell. The area around it turns red or yellow. With massive damage, the soil becomes almost black. | Visible individuals are smeared with acetic acid, kerosene, alcohol or turpentine using a cotton swab and removed without effort after 2-3 hours. The leaves are wiped with soapy foam or washed in the shower. Effective insecticides - Bankol, Actellik, Arrivo, Permethrin. Less toxic flea remedies - Butox, Entomozan (1.5 liter ampoule of water) have an unexpectedly good effect. For prevention, once every 1.5–2 weeks, flowers are sprayed with an infusion of hot pepper pods, garlic or tobacco chips. A rather controversial method is fumigation with cigarette smoke. |
| Root mealybug | Small whitish lumps appear at the roots, similar to pellets of cotton wool or poplar fluff. In case of massive damage, the soil moves away from the edges of the pot, and a border of a whitish wax-like substance appears. The leaves fade, droop and fall off. | The best prevention is to use sterilized soil and pots. Severely damaged echmea, together with a lump of earth, is removed from the pot and placed for 10–15 minutes in a container with hot (50–55 ºС) water (it should completely cover the roots). Then the flower is dried for 24 hours and replanted. Water for irrigation is replaced every 10–12 days with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm, Karbofos, Fozalon, Inta-Vir in half concentration. |
| Fusarium | The leaves lose their tone, yellow spots of irregular shape appear on them. Yellowness spreads from bottom to top. An almost transparent, as if watery, border appears along the edge of the leaf blade. Then the yellow spots change color to brown, and an unpleasant putrid odor appears. | The development of fusarium is promoted by stagnation of water in the soil and increased air humidity. Ventilate the room more often. Do not use soil that is too heavy or easily acidifies for echmea and be sure to sterilize it before replanting. For prevention, water the plants with Fitosporin-M once a week. If you discover a disease, use Vectra, Agat-25K, Benomyl, Fundazol, Baktofit, Vitaros strictly according to the instructions. |
Typical diseases and insect pests in the photo
The durable shell of the scale insect causes the low effectiveness of folk remedies in pest control
Aphids can settle on any indoor plant, echmea is no exception. Reproduction
Rooting daughter rosettes
After flowering, the echmea rosette dies. But not immediately, but after first forming several subsidiaries. New plants will bloom in 2–3 years. The only suitable time for landing is March.
- Wait until the daughter outlet reaches half or 2/3 the size of the mother outlet.
- Carefully separate the “baby”, trying to injure the adult plant as little as possible. Treat sections or separation areas with activated carbon powder, crushed chalk, and colloidal sulfur. It is best to do this during the next transplant.
- Plant the rosettes (with or without roots) in individual pots with a diameter of 5–9 cm, filled with any substrate suitable for adult echmea.
- For 2–3 weeks, keep them under a cover made from a glass jar or cut-off plastic bottle, and moisten the substrate as they dry. Ventilate the greenhouse daily. All conditions are the same as for adult plants. When roots appear, move to a permanent place and care for it as usual.
How to transplant “babies” at home - video
Germination of seeds
Aechmea seeds are easy to purchase or collect yourself. You will have to wait 4–5 years for flowering. Varietal characteristics are not always preserved. This is especially true for variegated colors.
- Shallow flat containers are filled with a mixture of peat and sand. The substrate is moderately moistened.
- The seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil, buried 0.5–1 mm, and covered with glass or film.
- “Greenhouses” are placed in a bright place, but not under bright sun, and provide a constant temperature of +23...+25 ºС. The plantings are ventilated daily for 7–10 minutes. As the soil dries, spray it with a spray bottle.
- After 3–4 months, the seedlings are transplanted into individual containers. The substrate is a mixture of peat and humus. The temperature is maintained at least +20...+22 ºС. Plantings are regularly sprayed, preventing the soil from drying out, and protected from direct sunlight.
- After a year, adult echmeas are planted in soil for adult plants and cared for accordingly.
Aechmea reproduces by side shoots - by children, when they already have their roots, and the main stem almost begins to die. But when planning to plant young plants, do not rush to remove the adult, mother plant, it can still produce new offspring.
There can be several “children”, so there is enough planting material and this is not surprising, because Aechmea plants are distinguished by qualitative and quantitative reproduction.
But first, the baby needs to be raised without separating it from the main stem, while continuing to care for the echmea. We replant the shoot only after its size is half the size of an adult plant.
Carefully separate the baby echmea with roots from the adult plant, and treat the cut area with charcoal. The cut should be smooth, so you will need a sharp knife for this procedure. Let's prepare a flower pot with a diameter of 6-8 cm with leafy, peat soil and a layer of drainage (sand) in a ratio of 2:2:1.
If there are no roots or you accidentally cut them off, then the plant has little chance of taking root, but if the young children are leafy enough, you can try. We disinfect the cut areas with charcoal powder and dry them. Then we plant it in a narrow pot for stability with a drainage hole. It is advisable to cover it with a bag, creating a warm and light content.
Subsequently, it will be possible to transfer it to another container according to the size of the roots. Since the root system of echmea grows wider than deep, the pot should therefore not be deep.
Aechmea children take root easily after transplantation, do not require much care, and in the spring they easily form roots. A young plant should not be over-watered, especially at low air temperatures. It must be remembered that transplanting offspring must be carried out with gloves; aechmea is partially poisonous and can cause irritation to the skin.
How to propagate echmea by seeds.
Aechmea reproduces by a generative (sexual) method - by seeds, extremely rarely, as a rule, in the month of March, when the plant has flowered and produced seed. We plant the seeds in peat soil, after 2.5-3.5 months seedlings appear, which we pick and plant. The temperature should be 22°-24°C, constant air humidity, watering and ventilation.
The disadvantage of the seed method of growing echmea is late flowering, after 4-5 years, and when propagated by offspring - by children for 1-3 years.
Aechmea got its name from the appearance of the inflorescence, “achme” translated from Greek means the tip of a peak. The flower has beautiful leathery leaves that look very decorative. It blooms only once in a lifetime, but how beautiful it is, leaving in the memory of flower growers this fire blazing with bright colors. And every gardener can admire such beauty. Echmea care at home is within the power of any person; it will thank him for it with flowering, although it will only be once, but such an event will be remembered for a lifetime.
Origin
It can adapt and live in the tropics, settling in rain forests with sudden temperature changes. It can grow on rocks, among stones, on trees and on the ground. It propagates by vegetative shoots, which take root extremely easily.
Types and varieties. Photo
Let's get acquainted! Depending on the growing conditions, species are divided into epiphytic and terrestrial. The most popular are:
- Aechmea curved - can be a terrestrial or epiphytic species, blooms in spring, the flowers are red, the inflorescence is of the same shade.
- Aechmea Weilbach - the flowers have a bluish-lilac tint, the sepals are fused, the stipules are red, the peduncle grows up to half a meter in height.
- Aechmea is matte red - it has a longer flowering period, then in place of the flowers bright pink fruits are formed, the flowers are pale blue, the stipules, like everyone else, are red.
- Aechmea sparkling - its subspecies Discolor is grown for its decorative properties. Its leaves on the outside are olive-colored, the inside has a lilac-red tint. The sparkling echmea itself blooms with coral flowers with pink sepals.
- Aechmea shaggy - blooms with bright yellow flowers collected in spikelets; flowering occurs in winter.
- Echmea biseriata is also an epiphytic and terrestrial species. A two-row subspecies called Vareigata is grown; it is famous for its leaves with white stripes along the edges. The two-row itself throws out a sixty-centimeter peduncle with purple flowers and red bracts.
- Aechmea caudatus - we bloom with a golden panicle crowning a long peduncle.
- Aechmea striped - blooms blue, eventually becoming red-blue flowers.
e. striped
aechmea blue rain
aechmea_fasciata
Bromeliad mystery is Aechmea chantinii
e. Fasciata Primera
Flower propagation
Beauty must be multiplied! Aechmea is propagated by seeds, pups - these are lateral shoots of the plant that already have roots. Children removed from the mother plant will bloom in the third year of independent life.
You can separate shoots without roots in the spring; sometimes in spring they easily form on such rootless shoots. The cut areas should be powdered with activated carbon powder and allowed to dry a little. Flower propagation by seeds is also practiced, but they will have to wait almost 2 times longer for flowering than by lateral layering.
How is propagation by shoots performed?
Children, that is, lateral layers, are cut off from Aechmea in March, with the onset of spring, this plant easily takes root. It is best to let the cuttings grow and form roots that are sufficiently strong next to the mother stem; anyway, it has already begun to dry out. You can wait for it to dry completely and only then plant the children in separate flowerpots. They will already be strong enough to live independently and will endure the transplant without stress.
Propagation by seeds
The process is labor-intensive and will take more than six months. Seedlings from seeds bloom in the fifth year of their existence.
Exotics have a special soil! Seeds are planted in a peat substrate or buy chopped fern roots. After planting the seeds, a container filled with one of the substrates should be moistened and placed in a warm place, without direct sunlight on them. The temperature should always be at +22-24ºС without sudden fluctuations. Humidity should also be constantly monitored; its percentage should be high, but without fanaticism.
After 3 months, the sprouting shoots should be planted in a mixture of heather and leaf soil in equal parts. Throughout the year, a constant temperature of +20ºC should be maintained. The sprouts require constant spraying and protect them from drafts; they are very tender and die when exposed to cold air. After a year, the seedlings should be planted for permanent residence in ordinary soil.
Aechmea flowering
The flowering period of Aechmea begins in May and lasts until October; some specimens of the Bromileaceae family can bloom in November-December. Flowers belonging to this family love moist air and constant moderate watering. It is not necessary to flood these flowers too much, otherwise the roots will begin to rot.
The condition of the soil should be moist all the time. To check the moisture content of the substrate, take some soil from the pot and squeeze it in your fist; when you open your palm, the soil should slowly crumble.
The main thing is not to overdo it! In the hot summer months, before watering the soil, pour a little water into the rosette of the flower, and only then can you water the soil. In autumn, the apartment is cool, the heating is not yet working and watering at this time should be done extremely carefully; in no case should you add water inside the outlet during this period.
In the summer, echmea is very demanding on watering and water temperature. Watering the plant requires settled warm water +20-22ºС. The flower is quite picky about watering conditions. It cannot tolerate waterlogged soil, but dry soil does not benefit it either.
In nature, echmea grows on trees in a rainy climate zone, and it survives due to this climate; there is very little soil on the forks of branches and in the cracks of the trunk.
In winter, the air in apartments is quite dry and Aechmea requires constant spraying. It does not tolerate drafts and sudden temperature changes.
The dry air of a city apartment is also not to her taste; in the summer she feels best on a balcony or loggia. The main thing is that it should not be exposed to direct sunlight.
The temperature acceptable in winter should be maintained at +17-18ºС. If it does not have enough warmth in winter, the inflorescences become dirty pink.
After flowering, which occurs in Aechmea only once during its life, it will live for six months or a little more. Striped echmea is very popular among flower growers because it has beautiful blooms and an unpretentious character. She calmly tolerates dry air and direct sunlight. Just like all echmeas, the soil in the flowerpot should always be moderately moist.
Help it bloom!
Aechmeas are beautiful flowering plants, I want them to bloom as quickly as possible. How to do this? There is a folk remedy that speeds up the onset of flowering of echmea; there is no scientific basis for this experience, but it works 100%:
- the flower should be covered with a transparent bag or jar, after placing a ripe apple in the pot and left in this state for two weeks;
- After 4 months, the echmea will bloom, throwing out a beautiful inflorescence.
If you don’t believe me, try it, this procedure will only benefit your pet.
Flower transplant
Aechmea transplantation is a mandatory annual procedure. Before transplanting, the flower should not be watered for 2 days so that the earthen ball dries out a little. Soil for replanting can be purchased at a flower shop.
This is how special soil for bromiliaceae is supplied. If you wish, you can make an earth mixture yourself; it consists of turf, leaf soil, sand and humus, in a ratio of 2:2:1:1.
For better passage of air and moisture through the soil, add perlite to it; this will make it looser and lighter. After transplantation, it is not recommended to water the plant for 3 days. These days it is advisable to arrange a flower in a lace shade.
Which pot is better to choose when transplanting?
Capacity, an important detail! For replanting echmea, a wide, shallow pot is better suited, since the root system of this flower is superficial and is not located deep in the ground, so why create unnecessary disturbance.
In soil that is not used by the flower, excess moisture will accumulate, which can subsequently lead to rotting of the roots. A wide pot will help to better hold the flower in an upright position, and such a container will look better. Don’t forget to lay a layer of expanded clay, broken bricks or small ceramic chips at the bottom.
Top dressing
Almost all house flowers love to be fed. Aechmea is no exception, but it needs to be fertilized at the very root. You can also carry out foliar feeding; you need to spray the plant with fertilizers dissolved in water.
Aechmea, an epiphytic plant, and its leaves are adapted to absorb nutrients along with moisture.
Fertilizers applied are important for echmea. Receiving nutrients, the flower acquires a more intense color, both leaves and inflorescences. They also contribute to a longer flowering period.
Fertilizers promote overall development, the flower begins to grow faster, which means it will bloom earlier. It is advisable to purchase fertilizers specifically designed for bromilium.
Of course, these flowers can grow and bloom without fertilizing with fertilizers, but with them the plants bloom brighter, the leaves are much larger, their color is more saturated and the plant itself looks well-groomed and healthy. The plants are fed 2 times a month, from April to October.
Diseases and pests of Aechmea
Fight against the conquerors! Aechmea is attacked by pests, and it is necessary to wage war against them by all available means.
When attacked by the bromilia scale insect, the leaves of the flower turn yellow, and small spots begin to appear on them. Actellica is well suited to combat it. A sponge is moistened with the solution and the leaves are wiped with it. Let them dry a little and then spray them with the same solution. The composition is diluted in the following proportion: 12 drops of the drug per liter jar of water.
Another invader, the mealybug, slows down the growth of the flower, damages the leaves, and sooty mold forms on the excretions. If you do not use drugs, the flower will die. A heavily infected plant should be treated with actellik, fufanol or korbofos.
Maybe the flower will become infected with a red spider mite; it settles on both sides, entwining the entire plant with a web. Over time, the leaves begin to turn yellow and the flower dies. The plant is washed with soapy water, then sprayed with Deciss several times.
At low ambient temperatures of Aechmea, its leaves become lethargic. You should urgently place the plant in a warm room.
Unpleasant neighbors! A fungus can settle on a flower, causing its leaves to turn brown; it is urgently necessary to spray the plant with fungicidal solutions.
Silvery stripes on the leaves appear as a result of mechanical damage. You need to be more careful with the flower.
The plant becomes lethargic, the leaves hang down like rags, if the roots rot, you should try to replant the flower in new soil, cutting off the rotten roots and treating them with activated carbon powder. You should carefully moisten the soil; do not pour too much water into the pot.
Frequent problems with growing echmea
When growing echmea, some problems should be avoided:
- Wrinkled leaves of a flower - in the room where the flower stands, it is dry and too hot.
- Watering should be increased and sprayed daily with settled warm water; if possible, it is better to do this with rainwater.
- The leaves are deformed, covered with small, green aphids - a colony of aphids has settled on the flower. The plant should be sprayed with insecticides or pollinated with pyrethrum.
- The peduncle and inflorescences dry out, the flowers acquire a dirty pink color - the room temperature is too low. Place the flower in a warm place.
- The peduncle or rosette of a flower rots - there is excess water when watering, and there is low air humidity in the room. Dry the rosette of the flower, dry the soil in the pot, and place it in a ventilated, warm room.
- The leaves shrink and die - after flowering, the plant dies. New flowers should be planted; before flowering, the plant produces offspring suitable for reproduction.
Features of caring for echmea seasonally
The main thing is to create conditions! Autumn-winter is an unfavorable time for the plant world. Echmeya has no time to rest. At this time, only a slight decrease in the temperature in the room where the flower grows is required. The frequency and intensity of watering is reduced. At the same time, daily spraying of this exotic flower is required.
Since the air in the room becomes dry when the heating radiators are turned on, you need to spray the flower every day or purchase an air humidifier.
Watering the plant is done as follows: first, water is poured into the outlet and only then the soil is moistened to the required degree. During the cold season, water is removed from the funnel after some time. This is done to avoid rotting of the plant. The water from the pan should be drained after watering.
In spring and summer, echmea is watered using the same technology as in winter, with the difference that in summer the rosette does not need to be drained. Watering is carried out according to the level of the remaining liquid in the outlet. The frequency of watering should not exceed more than 2 times a week. At high air temperatures, spray the plant every other day.
Watering the flower is done with settled water, you can water it with rain or melted snow liquid, but always warm, not lower than the ambient temperature. There should always be water inside the funnel-shaped outlet; its level is replenished during the next watering.
Aechmea_blanchetiana
Why doesn't the flower bloom?
Overcome difficulties! It often happens that you bought a flower in a specialized store, grow it for a year or two, but it doesn’t bloom, you wonder what you’re doing wrong.
The first reason is that echmea blooms once in its life, usually flowering begins at the end of May and lasts until October. In addition, you need to look at how old the seedling is. If the plant is grown from seeds, then you should not expect flowering before the fifth year of life.
A baby separated from the mother flower will open a bright inflorescence a little earlier, after 3 years. Keep in mind that the young plant will bloom when the time comes to do so. Don't worry unnecessarily.
The second reason is non-compliance with the temperature regime, which can lead to a long-term delay in flowering. It is believed that the flower is unpretentious in care, yet the ambient temperature plays a leading role in cultivation.
In summer, it is advisable to maintain the air temperature in the room from +22 to +26ºС. At high temperatures, you should spray the flower every day.
From November to March, when most representatives of the plant world begin their dormant time. Aechmea does not have a distinct period; it grows all year round. At this time, it is advisable to place the flower in a cooler room with an ambient temperature of +17 to +21ºС. At this time, the intensity of watering is reduced and fertilizing is abandoned. It is during the autumn-winter period that the initial formation of the bud occurs.
Do no harm! The third reason is a violation of the light regime. Since echmea does not have the opportunity to stop its development, it grows all year round without interruption. It should be provided with full light. You should not place it where direct sunlight can reach it. Otherwise, your pet will get sunburns. They will cause significant damage to her beauty.
The fourth reason is insufficient watering. Ehmeya is a native of tropical rain forests and this speaks of her love for moisture. The flower should be watered abundantly and twice a week. In winter and autumn, watering is halved. In the hot season, the flower is sprayed with a spray bottle every other day; in dry and hot weather, this can be done every day.
Other reasons - it happens that everything seems to be done according to the “instructions”, but the flower does not want to bloom, even if you throw it out the window. What to do in this case? It's time to go to the flower shop for bud formation stimulants and spray the flower. Didn't help? As usual, folk methods will save the situation.
Cover the flower with a transparent container or plastic bag, first placing 1-3 ripe apples in a pot and leave it like that for a couple of weeks. Then remove the covering material; the fruits release substances that stimulate the formation of buds. After 4 months, your beauty will be amazed by its lush blooms. The method has been tested in practice more than once and provides a 100% guarantee of flowering.
Why do Aechmea leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off?
Do it right! If not cared for properly, the flower is watered sporadically and forgotten to spray. In addition, if they flood the soil and forget to remove the water from the pan, the soil will dry out altogether. So the flower ends up with a tortured, unsightly appearance; from such a “life” its leaves turn yellow.
Aechmea is not a picky plant, but it requires care. It often happens that the owner waters the flower every day, as if the flower should be grateful, suddenly the leaves droop, hang like thongs and begin to fall off. Excessive watering can also be harmful to the flower.
Often, the drying and falling of leaves is associated with the natural death of the plant after flowering; its leaves dry out, the stem dies, and at the same time suckers grow nearby. These are replacement sprouts, plant them from an obsolete flower, and in 3 years new bright stars will bloom on your windowsill. Caring for echmea at home is not difficult, the main thing is to maintain a sense of proportion everywhere.
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