The bluebell gets its name from the unique shape of the flower. Previously, it could only be found in open fields, but there were connoisseurs who chose this flower to decorate their plots. Breeders who developed many new varieties did not ignore it either. Now you can see the bells of white, purple, blue, pink flowers, double and smooth, perennials and annuals, with a varied shape of inflorescences.
Growing a bell: planting
The first action of a gardener who decides to add a bell to his flower beds is to choose a planting location. This flower grows well in sunny or slightly shaded areas, but cannot tolerate stagnant water - if groundwater is located close to the surface, then it makes sense to find or create a small hill. Otherwise, when grown on swampy soil, the flower will freeze in the first winter. You can recognize varieties that do well in shaded areas by their dark green foliage, but, like the others, they need to be protected from drafts.
It grows poorly on heavy soils, so they need to be “lightened” by adding humus or sand. Poor soil is mixed with turf and fertilized well. A close to ideal option for bellflowers would be light soil with neutral acidity. However, here it is worth focusing on individual requirements selected variety - some species feel better in soil with a weak alkaline reaction, others prefer rocky or calcareous soil.
The future flowerbed is prepared in advance. They dig up the earth, remove weeds and roots, apply fertilizer - superphosphate and rotted manure are enough. Fresh is not recommended for the same reason as peat - there is a risk of introducing fungus into the soil.
Seedlings and division of rhizomes
If you decide to grow a bell, caring for it will depend on the method of propagation.
1. Planting seeds in open ground occurs in the fall, around October. It should be noted that if a species that grows in the wild is selected, its self-seeding will have to be carefully monitored, since the bell actively reproduces. The selected seeds are planted in the prepared soil, keeping a distance of about 2 cm. There is no need to bury them: just sprinkle them with soil on top. If you plant using this method, the first shoots will appear already. early spring. At the end of May - beginning of June they can be transplanted to permanent place.
2. Bellflowers are planted in seedlings in March. Its seeds are very small, so a mixture of soil is prepared for them from three parts of humus, six parts of turf, and one part of coarse sand.
On at this stage no fertilizers required. The seeds are pressed to the substrate and generously sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Glass is placed on top of the boxes: it is easier to remove than polyethylene in order to spray and ventilate the seedlings. After 2-3 weeks the glass is removed. Further care caring for plants is no different from caring for any flower seedlings: watering as needed, keeping them in a fairly sunny place, picking seedlings after three true leaves appear. Two weeks after picking, you can apply the first complex fertilizer, diluting it with water to a minimum concentration. Young bells are planted in open ground after the threat of frost has passed (at 18-20? C).
3. In August, after flowering, the bell can be divided by rhizomes. When the above-ground part of the plant is cut off, the bush is dug up and carefully divided into several parts, which are immediately planted in new places. The distance between such “plots” should be at least 50 cm.
Sowing either before winter or seedlings will help achieve flowering this year. When dividing the root, the bell will bloom only next year. So that young plants quickly gain decorative look, in the spring they are fed with nitrogen. To increase frost resistance, phosphorus is added under the flowers, and potassium is added in the fall.
Bellflower: caring for flowers after planting
Depending on the height of the plant (low, medium or high), plan the distance between the bell bushes. Young flowers are planted at a distance of 15, 30 and 50 cm from each other, respectively. When the planting is finished, the soil around the stem is well compacted and watered. In general, the bell requires minimal watering - the flower is quite unpretentious, and can easily do without regular irrigation.
As for fertilizers, in the spring the bell can be fertilized wood ash, and mulch the flowerbed with humus or rotted manure. You can “force” the plant to bloom beautifully and quickly with the help of low concentration mineral fertilizers - they are applied just before the bell buds. In order for the flowering to last longer and be lush, you just need to remove the dried flower stalks, the petals on which have already lost their decorative appearance.
What bluebells don't like is heavy soil and weeds. Timely weeding and loosening will provide him with an “easy life”, for which he will thank the gardener with abundant flowering.
When the seed box reaches the desired stage of ripening, it acquires a brownish tint. At this moment it’s time to cut it off: the color signals that the box will soon open. It will not be possible to collect tiny seeds from the ground, so it is better to cut them together with the “packaging” in advance.
How to propagate bellflower: planting cuttings
There are several ways in which you can propagate a bell bush and get another plant:
cuttings;
root shoot;
dividing the bush;
a piece of rhizome.
The best option depends on what type of bluebell needs to be propagated. If this annual plant, That new bush The same variety can only be obtained by planting seeds. Young green cuttings can be separated from biennials in the spring, or they can be planted as seedlings, just like annuals. Perennial bells are propagated by the vegetative methods listed above: the only exceptions will be species whose rhizomes have a spindle-shaped or racemose shape (these will have to be propagated by seeds). Based on the shape of the rhizome, you can determine best way reproduction of each specific species.
So, if the root is short and highly branched, then it will not be possible to cut off the “baby” from which a new plant will grow - this bell can be grown from seeds or any other vegetative way. A piece of rhizome can only be obtained from a bluebell, whose root goes deep into the ground.
The collected seed boxes should be laid out on clean paper and dried in a windless place. Since they were collected while still immature, they will open up on paper, and then it will not be difficult to collect the small seeds in a separate container.
You can divide the bush starting from the third year. By this time, he has gained sufficient vitality. The exception is some varieties, such as peach-leaved and speckled - these can be separated already in the first autumn. It must be taken into account that the plant must have time to take root either before the heat (planting in May) or before frost (August, September). Generally this method allows you to get a plant that exactly matches all the data of the mother bush, which will retain all its qualities. This is especially important for gardeners who prefer rare double or southern varieties: the former are difficult to grow from seeds, and for the latter they simply do not have time to ripen in more northern latitudes.
The bush is divided as follows: all aboveground part the plant is pruned and dug up by the roots. The division is carried out so that each individual plant has buds and a sufficiently developed root system. Bells are planted in pre-prepared holes so that the buds remain on the surface.
Bell - enough unpretentious plant, which does not require any special skills or knowledge. Any gardener can grow it if desired.
From many types garden bells(pointed, peach-leaved, rotundifolia, Pozharsky, twisted, milky-flowered, Carpathian, pyramidal, round-leaved and others) is not the least of interest bell medium (Campanula medium L). Its height is up to 1 m, flowers characteristic shape– inverted glasses with a skirt, about 7 cm long, in cold colors (white, blue, lilac, pink, purple). The flowers are double. There can be up to 50 flowers on one stem, which makes this type of bell look like luxurious candelabra.
The plant is elegant, delicate, expressive, solemn, with its own bright image, easily tolerates partial shade, like all bells, looks great in a flowerbed and in a bouquet, it is not surprising that it is popular and if you study the stores, it will be obvious that there are more varieties of the average bell than others (except that sometimes it is inferior to Carpathian and peach-leaved).
In the west, the plant is called Canterbury Bells - similar bells were tied to their horses by pilgrims on their way to Canterbury, the place where the main Anglican church in Britain is located - Canterbury Cathedral.
Varieties
Cup and saucer is the name not so much of a variety as of a variety group. Under this name, many agricultural companies, including foreign ones, produce seeds, most often mixtures of various colors (in English “Cup & Sauser”). All cups and saucers and Chinese sets (as the Gavrish agricultural company chose to call the plant for its “Lucky Seeds” brand) have double flowers with two skirts, as if nested one inside the other. It really does look like an upside down cup and saucer. The shape of the flowers is very harmonious and beautiful.
Other varieties or mixtures of medium bluebell that can now be found on sale: Raspberry Ring - double, mixture of colors (Russian Ogorod), Cottage - simple, mixture of colors (Johnsons, England), Dream - simple, pink (Sedek), Carminrose - simple juicy carmine pink (Gavrish), Gramophone – simple carmine pink (Plasma). Apart from the colors and degree of terryness of the flower, they have no fundamental differences, so all the recommendations in this article can be safely applied to any seeds that say medium bell on the packaging.
Growing from seeds
There are two growing options: seedlings or in a seedless way. In the second case, the plant will bloom only next year.
Seeds for seedlings are sown in March-early April, distributed over the surface of the soil. The plant has good germination, and the procedure for growing seedlings does not differ in any special aspects, except that young seedlings require shading from direct sun.
Sowing in open ground is carried out at the end of May; the seeds are not large, so they are not buried, but mixed with sand, which is distributed over the surface, or a shift is distributed over the surface of the soil, and then sprinkled with a thin layer of sand. The seeds germinate quite quickly; after 2-3 weeks from the moment of sowing, the young plants can be planted in another place at a distance of 10-15 cm. But this is not the final planting location. It is customary to carry out such transplantation to seed beds, planting the plants in a permanent place only in August (every 30 cm from each other).
Mature plants are used as “donors”. Growing spring shoots can be rooted, producing new plants.
It is a biennial, but is often grown as a perennial.
Landing and seat selection
The bell is a fairly unpretentious plant, but you should know some planting features. The plant is considered a light-loving plant, but it tolerates partial shade very well; very often it can be seen along western or eastern walls, where direct daytime sun does not reach. And such semi-shaded places can really be considered ideal. The fact is that the lighting parameter is closely related to two other characteristics environment: temperature and humidity. And here everything is clear - the bell loves moisture and feels great in the cool. Therefore, if you are looking for a plant to plant under a tree, near a shady gazebo, or a front garden on the east side, it makes sense to consider the middle bell.
The soil must have a neutral reaction ( acidic soils absolutely not suitable), well-drained (dampness leads to dampening of the bushes), light, nutritious.
In one place, the average bell grows from 3 to 5 years.
Care
The plant is unpretentious; you will need to perform a number of very simple measures:
- Sufficient watering in dry summer. Bluebells do not like lack of moisture. The plant will not die, but will significantly lose its decorative properties: the flowers will become small, or the plant will stop blooming altogether.
- Removing faded flowers.
- Lime is periodically added to the soil.
- By the autumn of the first year of planting seeds, the plant forms a rosette of leaves; it should be mulched with a sufficiently thick layer of covering (if these are fallen leaves, then at least 10 cm).
Collecting your own seeds
Seeds are collected in early autumn, choosing the healthiest and most lush specimens. Unfortunately, varietal varieties (hybrids) do not inherit 100% of their characteristics, so some of the seedlings grown from seeds own collection“go wild” - they will be a classic blue color.
Application in the garden
“Cup and saucer” is good in borders, flower beds, mass plantings, and mixborders. It will look great near the lawn or in small groups.
What is the middle bell combined with?
It looks great with many cultures:
- Garden geranium.
- Carnation.
- Cuff.
- Looks amazing in combination with, especially pink shades. The photo below does not convey the beauty of the combination of delicate bell-shaped “cups” and lush buds.
Pairs well with grains and herbs. Can be grown in container culture: pots, tubs, vases.
Bells. These gentle romantic meadow and wild flowers will be appropriate and organic in a garden of any style and can decorate any flower garden.
Bluebells in the garden
Low-growing mountain forms are indispensable in, medium-sized and tall bells will fit perfectly into the “rustic” country style, hanging varieties They will look good in and decorate perfectly. Various types and varieties of bells can be used for borders, designing flower beds, from bells of different sizes you can create an interesting one, with tall bells you can hide unsightly areas in the garden.
Bluebells - garden flowers
Bluebells (Campánula) are delicate, modest herbaceous flowers, distinguished by their cupped, bell-shaped flower shape, which is how they get their name.
There are many types of bells, about three hundred. They can be high up to 1.5 meters, and low 5 centimeters. They can be upright bushes, or they can be a creeping hanging plant. Bells are also divided into summer-green and winter-green. Wintergreen species are quite often used as a potted plant for the windowsill, for example, bellflower, gargantine, Kemularii bellflower, Radde, and even-leaved bellflower. Most bluebells are perennials, but some species are biennials or annuals.
Main types of bells:
1. Carpathian bells (Campanula carpatica) – plant height is about 20-40 cm, forms a bush with a spherical shape. The heart-shaped leaves at the roots are about 5 cm long, and smaller on the stems. Blooms profusely from early July to mid-September with blue large single flowers. Easily propagated by self-sowing. Used in rock gardens.
2. Nettle-leaved bells(Campanula trachelium)– a tall perennial plant that prefers shaded areas when grown. Used in single or group plantings.
3. Campanulaceae
(Campanula lactiflora) – perennial plants up to 1 meter tall. The flowers are collected in pyramidal inflorescences and can be white or various shades of purple. The plant is cluster-rooted and has highly branched shoots. Blooms profusely in June-July. Propagated by seeds. Used in single and group plantings, as a solitary plant.
4. Bellflowers
(Campanula cochleariifolia) is a perennial creeping plant capable of forming continuous sods, very decorative until frost. Blooms profusely with medium-sized white or blue drooping flowers collected in inflorescences. Flowers can be simple or double. Can reproduce by self-sowing.
5. Peach bells
(Campánula persicifólia) is a racemose plant, which is a rosette of leaves from which a peduncle rises about 60-100 cm high, it has small dark green leaves and a racemose inflorescence of white or blue flowers, some forms of these bells have double flowers. Flowering continues almost throughout the summer; it is only necessary to remove the faded flowers, leaving some of the lower seed plants for seeds. Can reproduce by self-sowing. Suitable for planting as a solitaire plant in a flower garden or for single or group plantings.
6. Pozharsky's bells
(Campanula poscharskyana) - plants forming dense cushions of heart-shaped leaves and peduncles, about 20 cm high. Blooms profusely from July to September with wide, bell-shaped, almost star-shaped flowers of light plum-blue color. The plant is suitable for alpine slides, looks good on retaining walls, and is also suitable for planting in containers.
7. Broadleaf bells
(Campanula latifolia) – tall plants up to 1.5 meters, form lush bushes, will look good in single plantings in the middle of the lawn or near a pond. And also good at mixed plantings together with such plants as delphinium, peonies, phlox, black cohosh, blood red geranium and ferns. The plants are shade-tolerant and look great against the background of trees and shrubs. Plants bloom from July to August, after flowering the plant loses its decorative effect.
8. Rapunzel bells
(Campanula rapunculoides) are shade-tolerant plants with wide purple flowers. Suitable for planting in shaded areas and under trees.
9.
Portenschlag bells(Campanula portenschlagiana) form compact pillows 10-25 cm high. Blooms profusely with small, purple, star-shaped flowers. Suitable for growing on alpine hills.
10.
The bells are crowded(Campanula glomerata)- they got their name because of the flowers gathered together, as if “in a heap”, they have a height of about 50 cm and are used to decorate borders, flower beds and ridges in country style.
11. Pointed bells
(Campanula punctata) - considered the most unpretentious, they have large flowers of purple, white or pink color.
12. Campanula equifolia(Campanula isophylla)– hanging plants, mainly used as pot culture, but are also suitable for planting in various containers, flowerpots and hanging baskets. Popularly, equal-leaved bellflower plants with white flowers are called “bride”, and those with blue flowers are called “groom”. Now the double forms of this bell have been developed.
Bells are not particularly picky when growing. They like well-drained neutral soils, and mountain views love calcareous soils. Plants cannot tolerate stagnant water. To extend the flowering period, faded flowers should be removed in time. For winter, shoots are usually pruned. Some species need light shelter for the winter, such as southern plants, like gargantine, pyramidal and middle bells.
Tall perennial bluebells in the gardenPerennial garden bells (lat. Campanula) have a simple flower shape, not overloaded complex combinations petals and stamens. They are popular among gardeners due to their bright and long-lasting flowering. The bells remind church bells, from where they got their name, they are also popularly called flowers of faith and hope.
Types of bells and their names
There are approximately 300 species of bells in the world. Let's look at the most popular varieties among gardeners.
Broadleaf bell (lat. Campanula latifolia)
One of the most tall species bells, the stems of which reach one and a half meters in height. Large serrated leaves are unevenly distributed along the stems; in their axils there are clusters of blue, white or lilac flowers up to 6 cm long.
Prefers moist soils and partial shade and is found in the wild. Transplantation of an adult plant does not tolerate well. In gardens you can find double forms of the flower. The most common varieties in Russia are Alba and Bruntwood.
Campanula lactiflora (lat. Campanula lactiflora)
A tall plant (up to 150 cm), found in the mountains of the Caucasus and Asia. The stem is powerful, highly branched in its upper part. The flowers are white or purple, 3-4 cm in diameter, collected in large inflorescences.
Prefers sunny places and reproduces by sowing seeds. The most popular varieties are Coerulea and Loddon Anne.
Nettle-leaved bell (lat. Campanula trachelium)
The stem is reddish in color, up to one meter high, covered with hairs. Single flowers white, blue or purple located in the sinuses upper leaves on short stalks.
The plant prefers shady, damp soils of forests and ravines. The variety is undemanding to soil composition, winter-hardy, and moisture-loving. Does not tolerate transplantation, but easily propagates by self-sowing.
Carpathian bellflower (lat. Campanula carpatica)
It got its name from the mountains, at the foot of which it is often found in nature. Plant height 30-35 cm; branching, herbaceous stems and large, up to 5cm flowers distinguish this species.
The easiest way to propagate the Carpathian bell is by growing from seeds, but you can also use cuttings and dividing the bush. Most popular variety- White Star.
Pointed bell (lat. Campanula punctata)
(6. Bell dotted Elizabeth)
In our country it occurs naturally on the banks of forest rivers in the Far East. Compact, branching plant up to 50 cm tall with large (5-6 cm) white, blue, lilac flowers. The corolla of the flower is pubescent, covered with burgundy dots.
A point bell that does not require planting or care special effort, perfect for alpine slides and flower beds in natural style.
Choosing a location and planting bells
Perennial bells, the varieties, photos and descriptions of which are presented in our material, are the most suitable for growing in Russia - unpretentious and not requiring special care. We will consider in detail their planting in open ground using seed and seedling methods.
Choosing a planting site and soil
Numerous bellflower species are similar in their soil preferences: loose, well-drained areas with light partial shade. In open sun, flowering will be short-lived. Plants do not tolerate stagnant moisture well, so wetlands are not suitable for them.
Propagation of bells by seeds
Bells reproduce well by seeds, and wild species should be limited due to active self-seeding. Bell seeds are planted in October in soil dug to a depth of 30-40 cm and cleared of weeds.
In heavy loamy soils, it is advisable to add sand, peat and compost. The distance between the seedlings is maintained at 2 cm, without deepening them, but only lightly sprinkling them with earth. With this method, the seeds germinate three weeks after the snow melts. After 2-3 months, the plants are transplanted to a permanent place.
You can propagate bells by seedlings by sowing them in boxes in March. They are covered with glass or polyethylene on top, periodically ventilating and spraying the shoots with a spray bottle. After a couple of weeks, the shelter can be removed and the seedlings can be dived. At the beginning of June, you can plant seedlings in flower beds.
Reproduction of bells by root division
Propagation of bells by dividing the root is usually carried out in August, after the above-ground part of the plant is cut off after flowering. The bush is dug up, the rhizome is cut into pieces with a shovel and the plots are planted in a permanent place, at a distance of at least 50 cm from each other.
Caring for perennial bells
Watering bells should be done as the soil dries; in rainy weather it is not carried out at all to avoid moisture stagnation.
Feeding perennial bells
Bells don't need complex schemes fertilizers; it is enough to feed them with nitrogen fertilizers in April, and before flowering (in mid-July) add complex mineral fertilizers. Nitrophoska works well at a rate of 70 grams per 1 sq. m ridges. After flowering, you can replenish the soil with superphosphate.
Garter and trimming
Tall types of bells need a garter or supports, since abundant flowering and green mass contribute to plant lodging. During flowering, it is advisable to remove old peduncles if there is no need to collect seeds.
Cleaning the inflorescences will save the plant’s strength and prolong total term flowering. After the bells have faded, the bush loses its decorative appearance and is completely pruned. During the cold season in regions with particularly harsh winter the bells are covered with spruce branches; in its absence, the pruned bush is sprinkled with compost.
Bottom line
Bells go well with lush garden plants and rarely act as the main crops in flower beds. They are used to fill space, they are indispensable companions in creating decorations and highlighting design elements of the garden and paths. Main feature bells are abundant flowering, and ease of reproduction with virtually no care.
Planting and caring for bells (in brief)
- Landing: sowing seeds in open ground - in October or May. Sowing seeds for seedlings - in March, planting seedlings in open ground - at the end of May or at the beginning of June.
- Bloom: V different terms- depending on the type and variety.
- Lighting: usually bright sunlight. There are only a few shade-loving species in the genus.
- Soil: any, even rocky and calcareous, but best drained loam with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction.
- Watering: moderate and only in dry seasons.
- Garter: tall varieties require support.
- Feeding: on melted snow - nitrogen fertilizer, during the budding period - a complete mineral complex.
- Reproduction: annuals - only with seeds, biennials - with seeds and spring cuttings. Perennials can be propagated by parts of the rhizome, root cuttings, stolons, dividing the bush, but seed propagation they do not retain varietal characteristics.
- Pests: slobbering pennies, slugs.
- Diseases: fusarium, botrytis, sclerotinia.
Read more about growing bells below.
Bell flowers - description
Most often there are perennial bells, less often - biennial and annual ones. The leaves of the bells are alternate, the bell-shaped flowers of blue, white and different shades of purple are collected in racemes or paniculate inflorescences. Sometimes single flowers are found. The fruit is a capsule with 4-6 slot-like holes. The bell plant can be short, medium or tall.
Growing bells from seeds
Sowing bluebells.
Bell seeds are not required preliminary preparation before sowing. They can be sown directly into the ground in May or before winter in October. But if you want them to bloom this year, sow them as seedlings in March. Since the seeds are very small, they are laid out on the surface of a light, loose, permeable substrate, previously well moistened and consisting of humus, turf soil and coarse sand in a ratio of 3:6:1. There is no need to add fertilizer to the substrate. The seeds are lightly pressed to the ground, sprayed with water from a spray bottle, and then the container is covered with film. Contain crops at a temperature of 18-20 ºC. Shoots may appear in two to three weeks.
Bluebell seedlings.
As soon as the seeds begin to germinate, move the container to a bright place, protected from direct sunlight. sun rays, remove the film and care for the bell seedlings like any other flower seedlings: water when the top layer of the substrate dries, loosen the soil around the seedlings, and when they are three weeks old and their first leaves develop, the seedlings dive into large capacity at a distance of 10 cm from each other. Two weeks after picking, feed the seedlings with liquid complex fertilizer in low concentration
Planting bells in open ground
When to plant bells in the ground.
Bluebell seedlings are planted in open ground at the end of May or beginning of June. Most of the bells are light-loving, shade-loving species grown in cultivation are literally only a few, and they can be recognized by the dark green color of the leaves. The bell does not like drafts.
As for the soil, some species grow well on rocky soil, some on calcareous soil, but most species prefer neutral or slightly alkaline well-drained loamy soils. Planting bells in the soil is carried out after its preliminary preparation: for deep digging, sand and humus are added to heavy soils, and turf soil and fertilizers are added to poor soils. Just don't contribute fresh manure and peat, since this increases the risk of plant damage by fungal diseases.
How to plant bells in the ground.
Planting bluebells on open places, away from bushes and trees, so that their roots can receive the necessary amount of moisture and nutrition. Low-growing bells are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, medium-height bells at a distance of 20-30 cm, and tall ones at an interval of 40-50 cm. After planting, the soil around the flowers is trampled down and watered well.
Caring for bluebells in the garden
How to care for bluebells.
Growing bells is no different from growing any other garden flowers - bells are unpretentious. Water them only when prolonged heat and dryness sets in. After watering, it is convenient to loosen the soil around the flowers and remove weeds. Tall bells are tied to a support as necessary. The bells are fed for the first time in the spring, on melted snow, with nitrogen fertilizer. The second fertilizing with complex fertilizer is carried out in the first half of summer, at the beginning of budding. To prolong the flowering of bluebells, promptly remove faded flowers.
Reproduction of bells.
Annual bells are propagated by seeds, biennials by seeds and spring cuttings. Perennial bells can be propagated by root cuttings, parts of rhizomes, dividing the bush and stolons, since when propagated by seed they do not always retain varietal characteristics. Terry varieties of bells do not set seeds, so they are propagated exclusively by vegetative methods.
Perennial species of bells with a carpal or taproot system are considered vegetatively immobile and reproduce by seeds. Those species that have a short rhizome are considered vegetatively inactive - they are propagated by division and cuttings. Species with long creeping rhizomes, which reproduce both by seeds, division and cuttings, and by rhizome segments and root suckers, are considered vegetatively mobile.
We described the seedling method of propagation to you, but you can sow the seeds in mid-October directly into the ground, where they will undergo natural stratification during the winter months and sprout together in the spring, and all you have to do is plant the seedlings. You can sow seeds in the ground in May, but then they need to be stratified for two months in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator, and since annual bells reproduce well by self-sowing, is it worth complicating your life by stratifying the seeds?
Cuttings of bells are harvested in the spring, in March-April - they are cut from young stem or root shoots, planted in a light, loose substrate and placed under a film dome to create high air humidity. It is best to use a greenhouse for this purpose and special installation for spraying fog. Root regrowth of cuttings occurs within three to four weeks.
The division of the bush is carried out in the third to fifth year of the plant’s life, but some species can be divided already in the second year. At the beginning of May or at the end of summer, large bushes are dug up and, having cut the stems, divided into parts with a sharp sterile knife, each of which should have developed roots and renewal buds, after which the sections are treated with crushed coal and the sections are immediately planted in a permanent place.
When propagating by parts of the rhizome, the creeping root of the plant is dug up, divided into parts so that each segment contains renewal buds, and planted in the ground so that the buds are at the level of the soil surface.
Root suckers need to be separated from the mother plant and immediately planted in a permanent place.
Pests and diseases of bellflower.
Blooming bells look very cute, but this is not the only advantage of flowers. They are so unpretentious that planting and caring for a bell is a pleasure and does not require time or effort. Bells are immune to diseases and pests and are very rarely affected by them, but when long-term cultivation flowers in one place in the soil, pathogenic microorganisms accumulate - fusarium, sclerotinia or botrytis - which can lead to the death of the plant. To prevent this from happening, treat the bells with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol twice a season, in spring and autumn.
In humid weather, slobbering pennies may appear on the bells, which are expelled with garlic infusion. Low-growing bells can be damaged by slugs, from which the plants are sprayed with a decoction of hot pepper and superphosphate granules are scattered under the flowers.
Perennial bells after flowering
How and when to collect bluebell seeds.
If you want to get seeds of your favorite species, then do not wait for the boxes to open; cut off the inflorescences left for the seeds in advance, as soon as the boxes acquire a brown tint, and ripen them in a ventilated, dry room.
Preparing bells for winter.
Planting and caring for perennial bluebells is no different from growing annual or biennial varieties, except that they need to be prepared for winter. At the end of September or beginning of October, the stems of all bells are cut off at the root. This completes the care of annual flowers. As for two-year-olds and perennial species, many of them spend the winter without shelter, but southern species you need to cover it with dry leaves or cover it with spruce branches. Tall bells are covered with a layer of humus or dry peat 15-20 cm high. This will be enough for perennial bells to survive the winter.
Types and varieties of bells
Annual species of bells come from the southern regions, so they are not often grown in areas with a temperate or cool climate. The most famous of them:
Bluebell annual
- a low-growing (up to 10 cm) plant native to the Caucasus, Balkans, Mediterranean and Asia Minor with a bright blue tubular corolla. Blooms from May to early autumn. Used for borders and rock gardens;
Dichotomous bell, or forked from the Western Caucasus. It reaches a height of 15-20 cm, has numerous light purple flowers and broadly ovate leaves;
Campanula Kashmiri grows in the Himalayas and Pamirs, reaching a height of only 6-8 cm. Its flowers are purple, small, up to 1.5 cm in length, but there are many of them and they bloom for a long time;
- Caucasian endemic, growing on gravelly soil and in rock cracks. This highly branched plant reaches half a meter in height; it blooms in May-July with paniculate inflorescences consisting of 50-60 pitcher-bell-shaped purple flowers up to 4 cm in diameter with a swollen base and a calyx with deflected sharp teeth;
Bell Mirror of Venus originally from the Mediterranean mountains, from Great Britain and Holland. This species has been known in culture since the end of the 16th century. The height of the bell, or leguzia, reaches from 15 to 30 cm. Saucer-shaped, blue with a lilac tint and a white center, the flowers up to 2 cm in diameter are collected in paniculate inflorescences, blooming from early summer to September. This species has varieties with white flowers.
Biennial bluebells
are represented by the following types:
Bluebell bearded– grows naturally in the subalpine zone of the Mediterranean. It reaches a height of 4 to 30 cm. Its flowers are drooping, goblet-bell-shaped, pale blue, up to 3 cm long. This species blooms in June-July. In culture since 1752;
Hoffman bell- from the Balkans and Adriatic. This is a strongly branching plant with a height of 30 to 50 cm. a large number large drooping white or cream-colored flowers that open in June-July;
Campanula thyrsus And bellflower– plants with spike-shaped inflorescences of funnel-shaped flowers of light yellow color in Campanula thyrsus and bright purple in Campanula spica;
Bluebell grows naturally in the Balkans, Europe and Asia Minor. The plant reaches a height of 70 to 120 cm. Its flowers with tubular pale purple corollas, collected in whorls of 6-7 pieces, open in June-July;
Medium bell grows naturally in the South Western Europe and in Asia. In culture, this biennial is sometimes grown as an annual plant. It has an erect stem 50 to 100 cm high and goblet-bell-shaped white, blue or pinkish flowers, simple or double, up to 7 cm long, collected in pyramidal inflorescences. The species has been in culture since 1578;
Originally from Europe and Siberia. This is a densely pubescent plant, 70 to 100 cm high, with small blue sessile flowers, collected in inflorescences that are almost capitate at the top and whorled at the bottom.
In addition to those described, such biennial bells as Moesian, Siberian, diverging, spreading, pyramidal, laurel, Formaneca, spatulate, Sartori and orphanidea are known.
All other species belong to perennial bells, which in turn are divided into low-growing, medium-growing and tall-growing.
Low-growing types of perennial bells:
– the most widespread cultivated species, native to the Carpathians and the mountains of Central Europe. It is a perennial up to 30 cm high with leafy stems, a basal rosette of ovate leaves on long petioles and ovate short-petioled stem leaves. The flowers of plants of this species are single, funnel-bell-shaped, blue, purple or white, up to 5 cm in diameter. They bloom from June for more than two months. The species has been in cultivation since 1770. The most famous garden forms of Carpathian bellflower:
- – Alba And White Star– varieties with white flowers;
- – Celestine And Isabelle– sky blue bells;
- – Centon Joy, Riverslea, Blaumeise– varieties with blue flowers;
- – Karpatenkrone– form with purple flowers;
- – Clip- a miniature plant up to 20 cm high with flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. Can be grown in open ground, and in indoor culture;
Campanula garganica- a perennial up to 15 cm high with fragile creeping ascending stems, rounded three-toothed leaves and blue star-shaped flowers up to 4 cm in diameter. In culture since 1832. The best varieties of the species are:
- – Major– variety with pale blue flowers;
- – W.H. Paine– flowers of a light lavender hue with a white eye;
Spiral bell, or spoonleaf grows naturally in the Carpathians and Alps. The plant is miniature, up to 15 cm high. The stems are creeping. Drooping flowers of blue, blue or white color up to 1 cm in diameter are collected in small inflorescences. In culture since 1783. The most famous varieties:
- – Alba– white bell;
- – Loder– a variety with double blue flowers;
- – Miss Wilmott– variety with blue flowers;
- a miniature plant from the Far East with single violet-blue flowers up to 3 cm in diameter and up to 4 cm long with a shaggy corolla along the edge. There is a white-flowered form.
In addition to those described, such low-growing species are known perennial bluebells, like birch-leaved, hairy-fruited, soddy, saxifrage, Kemularia, daisy-leaved, single-flowered, Oshe, Ortana, warlike, border, Radde, Rainer, ciliated, dark, dusky, three-toothed and Uemura.
Medium-height perennial bells
are represented by the following types:
Bell Takeshima grows naturally in Korea and the Iranian Plateau. It is a perennial, reaching a height of 60 cm and forming groups of basal rosettes. Numerous stems of this species are creeping, creeping, and erect. Single or double flowers of blue, white or pink colors bloom in early summer. The best varieties:
- – Beautyful Trust– a variety with large white spider-shaped flowers;
- – Wedding Belz– variety with double white bell-shaped flowers;
Komarov's bell
– Caucasian endemic amazing beauty up to 45 cm high with a branching stem and numerous large flowers of a bright light purple hue up to 3 cm long with sharp, turned-away lobes;
grows in the Far East and Siberia. Its thin fibrous stem reaches a height of 50 cm. Numerous hairy leaves in the basal region on reddish petioles, ovoid, lanceolate or acute. Large drooping, pubescent, goblet-bell-shaped flowers on long off-white pedicels are covered both outside and inside with purple dots. The best varieties:
- – Rubra– a variety with bright flowers;
- – Alba Nana– a variety with white flowers up to 20 cm high;
Bell Sarastro
– hybrid species bell point with very bright purple flowers up to 7 cm long. The height of the bush reaches 60 cm, diameter – 45 cm.
In addition to those described, the medium-growing species include bells Tatra, polymorphic, rhomboidal, Moravian, flax-leaved, Spanish, wonderful, carnica, Marchesetti, round-leaved, perforated, kholmovoy, Turchaninova, Sarmatian, garlic-leaved, Grossec, pale ocher and hybrids Kent Belle and Pink Octupus .
Tall types of bells include:
Campanula latifolia, which naturally grows in the Caucasus, Southern and Central Europe, Siberia, Asia Minor, the European part of Russia and Ukraine in deciduous, dark-coniferous and mixed forests and along river banks. It has a straight bare stem more than 1 m high, bare double-serrate leaves up to 12 cm long and up to 6 cm wide, and large axillary flowers forming a sparsely flowered narrow spike-shaped raceme. Funnel-shaped flowers up to 6 cm long, blue, white or light blue with slightly bent blades, bloom in June-August. This species has been in culture since 1576. The most famous varieties:
- – Alba– with white flowers;
- – Bruntwood– variety with purple flowers;
- – Makranta– variety with dark purple large flowers;
It grows in the Caucasus, Western Siberia, the European part of Russia, Ukraine and Western Europe. This plant is from 50 to 100 cm high with erect leafy stems, smooth and serrated leaves at the edges, similar to peach leaves, and wide, bell-shaped large flowers up to 5 cm long, white, blue or lilac. blue tint, collected several pieces into a panicle. This species has crown and double forms. Flowering begins in the second half of June and lasts more than a month. Bellflower has been in cultivation since 1554. The most famous varieties of the species:
- – Bernice– variety with blue double flowers;
- – Tetam Beauty– a variety with large light blue flowers;
- – Exmouth– a variety with dusty blue double flowers;
- – Snowdrift– a plant with white bells;
- – variety mixture New Giant Hybrids– plants up to 75 cm high with large flowers of white and all shades of blue;
Campanula lactiflora
grows naturally in Asia Minor and the Caucasus. This plant is from 50 to 150 cm high with a tap root, which allows it to grow well in difficult conditions. loamy soil. Bell-shaped, milky-white flowers up to 4 cm in diameter are collected in a racemose inflorescence. They open in June and bloom until the end of summer. The species has been in culture since 1814. The main varieties of this species:
- – Cerulea– variety with blue flowers:
- – Alba– a plant with white flowers;
- – Pritchard Veraiety– a plant up to 150 cm high with lavender-blue flowers;
In addition to those described, such tall types of bells as rapunzel-shaped, crowded, Bolognese, noble-large-flowered and nettle-leaved are known.