In order for hydrangeas to please you with flowering next year, it is necessary that they properly go to winter, and they must be covered for the winter. However, do not rush to cover all your hydrangeas; not every variety requires this; there are quite winter-hardy species and varieties of this wonderful shrub. This article will be devoted to what hydrangeas, when, how and with what to cover them for the winter.
Which hydrangeas need to be covered for the winter?
First, you should figure out what types of hydrangeas need to be covered, and then what methods and materials are best to do this.
paniculata hydrangeas no need to cover, they are absolutely winter-hardy.
Tree-like hydrangea also does not require shelter and is absolutely winter-hardy.
Pay attention! Nevertheless, young ones need some insulation of the root system, and mulching will be enough for them.
But large-leaved hydrangea very afraid of frost, if you do not cover it, then its apical buds on which it blooms will die, which means that next year it simply will not be able to bloom its inflorescences. Moreover, this applies to new remontant varieties that bloom on the shoots of the current year.
Important! Similar to large-leaved, you also need cover serrated and oak-leaved hydrangeas.
Serrated
Covering (mulching) paniculate hydrangeas
In this case, we are not talking about a classic shelter (broom species do not need it), but rather about mulching the soil under the bush (this is very light insulation and good nutrition for a quick spring start), in other words, about its, in a sense, hilling. As such mulch, you can use pine litter, peat (acidic and neutral), and you can also add compost to the peat. If it is absolutely impossible to get such nutritious mulch, then you can hill up with ordinary garden soil (but it is better to take it not from under a bush, but from some other place in the garden). In this case, the thickness of the mulch layer should be about 8-15 cm. Moreover, it should be poured along the perimeter of the bush, starting from the center and extending up to 25-30 cm from it.
Pay attention! If paniculate hydrangeas very young or first year of planting, then preparations for winter should be more thorough.
Video: sheltering paniculata hydrangea for the winter
Covering (mulching) tree hydrangeas
As in the case of mulching paniculate hydrangea, the trunk circle of the tree-like variety should also be mulched with a nutritious substrate (similarly - pine litter or peat + compost or rotted manure) so that the plant quickly recovers after winter in the spring.
Video: how to properly cover tree hydrangea for the winter
When to cover large-leaved hydrangeas for the winter
Large-leaved hydrangeas are afraid of sharp and early autumn frosts, as well as late spring ones, but systematic winter ones are tolerated calmly. Therefore, you should always have time to cover them before the first frost, because... their flower buds are afraid in the fall of even a minimal drop in temperature to -1..-2 degrees.
It is optimal to start covering hydrangeas when the daytime temperature has already dropped to +6..+8 degrees, and the night temperature to +2..+4.
Thus, the approximate time for covering large-leaved hydrangea in the middle zone (Moscow region) is the first half of October.
If you do not have time to cover before the first frost, the hydrangea foliage will freeze and become black and slimy. Therefore, it is recommended to remove foliage and cover the plant before the first, albeit mild, frosts strike.
Important! All lower leaves can be torn off simply with your hands, slightly pulling down.
Pay attention! It is better to leave the upper (leaves), which are located next to the buds, as they will protect them (the buds) in winter.
When to remove cover from hydrangeas in spring
First of all, you need to navigate the weather. We can only give approximate dates - if you often experience recurring spring frosts, then it is better after the May holidays, if not, then before the May holidays. In any case, as soon as the threat of low temperatures has passed, you can begin to gradually remove the shelter.
How to cover large-leaved hydrangea
Worth knowing! In the middle zone (Moscow region), the ground, as a rule, freezes a meter or more in winter, and half a meter under the snow. Therefore, the purpose of “winter insulation” is to protect the plant from sudden temperature changes, since the temperature of even frozen ground with some thermal insulation is higher than the ambient air temperature.
Leaves
Important! Covering the hydrangea only with leaves is clearly not enough; you need to at least put spruce branches on top, or other suitable covering materials: non-woven material (lutrasil, spunbond), burlap, or, in extreme cases, plastic film. Or you can do the opposite: first wrap it in covering material and then cover it with leaves, but in this case you need to make a special frame.
For insulation, you can cover the hydrangea bush with dry chestnut or maple leaves for the winter. The advantage of using the leaves of these trees is that they do not rot over the winter.
Attention! Leaves of fruit trees and berry bushes should not be used.
Branches of spruce branches
Spruce branches are excellent for covering almost all covering plants, but, as a rule, they are covered with dry leaves, or on top of covering material, because spruce or pine branches alone are clearly not enough.
Advice! In the forest you can always find broken branches, so there is no need (and cannot be) to specifically break or saw them off. It’s another matter if you have your own conifers, in which case you can use the branches left over after the annual pruning.
Non-woven covering material (spunbond, lutrasil)
This is the most popular covering material for all gardeners. Its main advantage is that it breathes (breathable). As a rule, 2 layers of lutrasil or spunbond (with a density of at least 60) are enough to cover large-leaved hydrangea, for example, in the middle zone (Moscow region), but some gardeners recommend covering even 3-4 layers. Moreover, under such shelter, hydrangea winters well even without snow.
Advice! It is convenient to cover overgrown and lush bushes by placing arches and securing a non-woven covering material on top of them.
By the way! Many gardeners first cover with 1 layer (when the temperature is positive), and then cover with a second layer (when a sharp cold snap begins).
Video: how to cover large-leaved hydrangea with non-woven material for the winter
Sackcloth
Quite often, burlap is used to cover large-leaved hydrangeas. Cover with it in 2-3 layers, and on top with additional plastic film, while it is better to leave vents at the bottom (on the sides). In spring, the film must be removed as early as possible, otherwise it becomes very hot under it.
Pay attention! But lutrasil practically does not allow water to pass through, so you don’t have to rush to remove it in the spring.
Video: covering hydrangea with large-leaved burlap and lutrasil
Polyethylene film
By the way! Similar to film, you can use roofing felt.
Many summer residents like to cover their plants with film the old fashioned way, but you should know that it does not allow air to pass through, which is very important for normal wintering. However, the film perfectly protects from excess moisture, because... it is waterproof, but hydrangeas, unlike hydrangeas, are not afraid of dampness, so there is no need for such enhanced waterproofing. But we must also take into account that under the film at above-zero temperatures it quickly becomes very hot.
Application option! You can first cover the hydrangea with 2 layers of double non-woven material (lutrasil or spunbond), and then additionally with film on top. In this case, it is better to open the film slightly so that the ends (side walls) are ventilated and condensation does not collect under the film.
At the beginning of spring, the film must be removed. The non-woven covering material should be opened gradually on warm days for ventilation, and closed at night.
How to properly cover large-leaved hydrangeas for the winter
Important! It is best to cover non-frost-resistant plants with an air-dry shelter (under the shelter it is almost always dry, because moisture does not get in, and it itself is breathable).
Step-by-step guide to sheltering for the winter
Step-by-step instructions for covering large-leaved hydrangea for the winter:
- 1. Tear off all the leaves and cut off the inflorescences.
- 2. Gently bend the shoots, securing (pinning) them to the ground using slingshot sticks or metal brackets (for example, bent electrodes). If the bush is large, then it is convenient to bend it in different directions - half a bush to the right, half a bush to the left.
Advice! Some gardeners advise placing wooden pallets (boxes) or boards under hydrangeas.
By the way! Some flower growers do not bend, but simply wrap the hydrangeas in non-woven material, but leave flowers standing It’s still quite risky, because in this form they are more susceptible to freezing (they need to be covered in 3-4 layers).
- 2. Mulch the center of the bush. For example, you can hill up with peat (acidic and neutral), pine litter, bark (20-25 cm).
However! Many gardeners, on the contrary, do not cover the bushes with anything or hill them up so that they are better ventilated (and do not rot), but if you experience prolonged frosts of 25-30 degrees, then it is better to at least mulch them.
Don't forget to loosen your bushes in the spring!
- 3. Cover the top with dry leaves of ornamental trees (chestnut or maple). This is especially true for young plants and for regions with very cold winters.
- 4. Next, if desired, you can put additional branches of spruce branches (or cover them with them already on top of the covering).
- 5. Cover with special covering material.
- 6. Secure the sides on all sides with bricks or boards (alternatively, bottles of water).
Video: how to cover large-leaved hydrangeas for the winter (dry shelter)
What else needs to be done in the fall before covering hydrangeas for the winter
The mandatory activities that need to be carried out during the autumn preparation of hydrangeas for shelter for the winter also include:
- Removing fallen and cut leaves from the bush.
- The very shelter.
Video: preparing large-leaved hydrangea for winter
Thus, covering large-leaved hydrangeas for the winter is a mandatory procedure, unless, of course, you are interested in their flowering and not their foliage cover. Of course, you'll have to tinker, but it's usually worth it. Although, if you are a lazy gardener, then you are better off growing paniculate and tree-like varieties, which do not need to be covered for the winter, except perhaps mulched.
Video: covering hydrangeas for the winter
In order for perennial flowering shrubs to survive the cold safely, they must be covered for the winter. Such plants include large-leaved hydrangea, the flowers of which practically freeze out and flowering does not occur.
In order for such a bush to become a real decoration of any garden, you need to prune the hydrangea for the winter and properly prepare it for winter.
Description of the plant
Hydrangea is one of the most common flowering plants for garden decoration. In total there are about 70–80 species of this. The shrub can grow up to 2 meters in height.
It is a deciduous bush with erect shoots and egg-shaped leaves bright green color.
The plant begins to bloom in early summer. The flowering period continues until late autumn with proper care. At the ends of the stems are formed lush spherical inflorescences. The color of the lush inflorescences is bright and varies:
- lilac;
- white;
- pink;
- blue;
- red.
Moreover shade may vary optionally, if you change the composition of the soil in which the shrub grows. For example, in acidic soil the inflorescences will be blue, but in alkaline soil they will bloom pink. A neutral composition will lead to the flowering of beige inflorescences.
Garden varieties are distinguished by abundant flowering and quite easy to care for. With these qualities, hydrangea has always attracted those who like to grow flowers in their garden plots. The most popular varieties for growing in Russia include paniculate, tree-like and large-leaved hydrangea.
Most of the care hassle is associated with protecting the plant in winter. The most winter-hardy is hydrangea paniculata. Varieties of this species are able to survive winter at minus 30 degrees. This is due to the fact that its natural habitat is Sakhalin. To protect it from frost, only the root system needs to be covered. The plant almost never freezes and withstands harsh conditions, after which it blooms luxuriantly and profusely.
Different types and varieties of hydrangea tolerate winter cold in different ways. In addition, they can grow in different climatic zones, so there are nuances of caring for them in the fall in preparation for the upcoming cold weather.
Below you will find information about autumn care and preparing the plant for winter, about pruning hydrangea in the fall and covering it for the winter, which will be useful for both beginners and experienced gardeners who have recently planted this perennial in their summer cottage.
How to care for hydrangeas in the fall: secrets of care and preparation for cold weather
Hydrangea care activities in the fall include the following:
- Eradication autumn spraying (treatment) against diseases and pests(alternatively, you can use a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture).
- Transfer(but only paniculate or tree-like varieties; large-leaved varieties are best replanted in the spring).
- Reproduction(by dividing the bush or digging up layering, but cuttings are carried out only in the summer).
By the way! You can replant a shrub by propagating it by dividing the bush.
- Feeding and watering (more on this later).
- Trimming.
- Shelter for the winter.
Moreover especially important properly prepare hydrangea for winter, namely autumn pruning and winter shelter.
Autumn feeding of hydrangea and its watering regime
When the hydrangeas finish flowering and their buds begin to gradually dry out, it’s time for autumn feeding, which should help the shrub go into winter in strong condition, successfully laying vegetative and flower buds for future growth and flowering in the new year.
In the fall, it is necessary to add potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to the soil; hydrangeas are no exception. During this period, it will be good to feed them with potassium sulfate - as a potassium fertilizer, and superphosphate - as a phosphate fertilizer. Or you can buy ready-made autumn fertilizer.
Remember! No nitrogen fertilizers in the autumn, and also no ash as a potassium fertilizer, because it alkalizes the soil, while hydrangeas, on the contrary, need fertilizers that acidify the soil.
But watering in the fall is practically stopped (especially if the weather is cloudy and/or rainy), although, as you know, hydrangea loves moisture very much, so it is very important to water it regularly in the hot periods of the year during abundant flowering.
Features of autumn pruning hydrangea
Many lovers of this wonderful flower often have questions about this procedure: when is it better to prune - in autumn or spring; and is it necessary to prune hydrangeas for the winter? It is worth looking into these issues in more detail. In addition, if this procedure is carried out incorrectly, the shrubs may bloom poorly and, in principle, leave the gardener without their beautiful flowers throughout the entire season.
Pay attention! Details about pruning hydrangeas in autumn you can read
Should I prune for winter?
In the fall, it is imperative to remove all faded (dry) inflorescences, otherwise in winter, under the weight of snow, hydrangea bushes may simply break. It also does not interfere with sanitary and thinning pruning.
When is it better to prune - autumn or spring?
It is believed that paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas can be pruned both in autumn and spring, or pruning can be carried out in several stages (cut some of it in the fall, and then finish what you started in the spring). But, as a rule, they try to prune the large-leaved variety only in the spring. Pruning of young bushes 2-3 years old (which still have thin stems) is most often left until spring.
Features of autumn pruning of plants depending on the type
Let us consider separately how tree-like, paniculate and large-leaved varieties are pruned, since each of them has its own characteristics.
Pruning the paniculata variety
As a rule, in the fall, paniculate hydrangea cut off only faded inflorescences, and in the spring they carry out complete (final) pruning, that is, pruning is carried out in 2 stages.
However, the flowering of paniculata, like a tree-like hydrangea, occurs on the shoots of the current year, which means that making a mistake when pruning is not at all scary. That's why In autumn, you can completely prune tree hydrangeas., but leaving some margin. For example, when pruning for flowering, you should leave 3-4 pairs of strong buds.
Video: pruning paniculate hydrangea in autumn
Tree species pruning
Pay attention! Autumn pruning of tree hydrangea running similar to paniculata, but with some nuances (due to the structure of the flower). Naturally, you can do full pruning in the fall, because... it also blooms on the current year's shoots.
Video: how to prune tree hydrangea for the winter
Pruning the large-leaved variety
Large-leaved hydrangea blooms on last year's shoots, so it requires a completely different pruning. And if you do standard pruning, you can simply deprive yourself of flowering next year.
So, in the fall, only faded two-year-old shoots of the large-leaved variety are pruned; all other pruning procedures are transferred to the spring.
Pay attention! Many gardeners prefer not to touch large-leaved hydrangeas at all in the fall, but to do everything in the spring.
But you can still cut off the inflorescences in the fall. Moreover, it is recommended to cut the inflorescences to the first pair of buds at the end of the branch, that is, they (the buds) should never be touched. In addition, a stem of approximately 1.5-2 cm (a long stump) should be left above them.
Sheltering hydrangeas for the winter
Many novice gardeners are interested in covering this perennial for the winter, namely: when and how to do it correctly.
Pay attention! There is already one on the site that you can find.
Features of frost resistance of each type of hydrangea
Hydrangea paniculata is one of the most frost-resistant species; it can withstand frosts down to -30-35 C.
The tree-like variety is slightly less resistant to frost, in which young shoots may freeze in the cold season. But the plant usually recovers very quickly during the next season.
And the most unstable to cold weather is the large-leaved hydrangea. The fact is that this perennial blooms on the shoots of the previous year. And if the flower buds freeze over the winter, there will be no flowering next year.
Is it necessary to cover for the winter?
Thus, not all varieties of hydrangea need to be covered during the cold season, or rather only tree and paniculate varieties, since they are highly frost-resistant. It will be enough to lightly hill each of the bushes.
But large-leaved hydrangea is strongly recommended to be carefully covered for the winter, since it is a very heat-loving species. Therefore, if you do not cover this shrub in the middle zone and cold northern regions, then it will definitely not bloom.
Video: how to properly cover large-leaved hydrangea for the winter
Features of covering hydrangeas depending on the region
In the Urals and Siberia, experienced gardeners manage to grow large-leaved hydrangea, many varieties of which are valued for the beautiful decorative appearance of their foliage, as well as for their beautiful flowers of different colors. To provide good cover for the winter for this heat-loving variety in the northern regions, it should be planted separately from other plants so that its shelter does not interfere with the development and growth of other flowering perennials. Some gardeners sometimes even grow this type of plant in large tubs, which are put away in a greenhouse for the winter or to the greenhouse.
As for how to cover large-leaved hydrangeas in the middle zone (Moscow region), an air-dry shelter is used here (however, it can be used in Siberia and the Urals), for example, like this:
- The shoots of the perennial are tied together, wrapped with lutrasil, and a mesh frame is built around it, the size of which is 10-12 cm larger than the height of the shrub. Dry leaves are poured inside the frame to the very top. Then the resulting structure must be wrapped with any material that does not allow moisture to pass through. In this way, young seedlings of all types of hydrangeas should be covered for the winter.
Attention! Already on the site detailed article on covering hydrangeas for the winter which you can read.
These wonderful shrubs are actively grown in landscape design to decorate park areas. But more and more often they are found in the most ordinary summer cottages and in the gardens of private houses. However, gardeners need to remember that these perennials require special treatment in preparation for the cold period.
Video: preparing hydrangea for winter: pruning and covering
In our climate, almost all perennial garden crops need insulation, which is usually done just before frost. When it comes to Hydrangea paniculata, opinions vary greatly. The fact is that its natural growth area is in regions with relatively low temperatures, and even with sharp changes in them combined with high humidity. For example, the Far East, Japan, China. That is why it is classified as a group of frost-resistant plants. Hence the controversy over the question of whether it is worth covering hydrangea for the winter or whether this procedure can be neglected.
In nature, there are about 80 species of this flower. The categorization is quite complicated, but this is not the main thing - only a few representatives of the dicotyledonous class are cultivated on the territory of the Russian Federation. One of them is paniculata hydrangea. Its inflorescences are white, which over time acquires a pinkish tint, which is why paniculate hydrangea is often called pink.
Unlike other varieties, paniculata hydrangea tolerates temperatures down to -35 ºС, but this is provided that it is reliably protected from the wind. In addition, the buds, from which the buds then develop, are formed on one-year-old sprouts that appear in the spring of the current year. Consequently, the peculiarity of the shelter is to protect, first of all, its root system from freezing.
Any plant, even one securely covered for the winter, is unlikely to survive the cold period safely if it is weakened by autumn and, moreover, damaged by some pest. Therefore, you should prepare hydrangea for winter ahead of time. As a rule, experienced gardeners begin to do this in mid-summer, regardless of the climate in the region.
- Completely switch to fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizers based on nitrogen and its compounds should be abandoned. The explanation is simple - they reduce the frost resistance of the plant and initiate the growth of young shoots. Hydrangea paniculata, as you might guess, does not need either one or the other on the eve of winter.
- With the onset of autumn, watering the flower must be stopped. This is necessary for the speedy lignification of all branches that will spend the winter.
- At the same time, foliage is removed. It is not difficult to determine when to do this if you understand the meaning of this agrotechnical activity. Moisture “leaves” (evaporates) from the plant through the leaves, and if they are left for the winter, the wood will dehydrate.
It is advisable to get rid of greenery at the end of the rainy period. But this applies only to the branches of the lower rows, since this procedure speeds up the process of their lignification. Before frost, all the others are removed for the reason that it is on the leaves that garden pests often settle, which will safely (if the greenery is left) overwinter along with the hydrangea. Naturally, if it is completely covered.
There are recommendations that the leaves from the tops of the shoots should not be touched, since they serve as a kind of protection for the places where flower buds subsequently form. In this case, the authors confuse plant varieties. Hydrangea paniculata is distinguished by the fact that the most developed (and therefore promising) buds are located in areas from the trunk to the center of the branches. It is from them that, at the end of winter, those shoots appear on which the buds subsequently bloom. Therefore, even if the tops freeze, this will in no way affect the flowering of the hydrangea next year. In addition, during spring pruning, during the process of crown formation, they are usually removed.
Ways to cover for the winter
The decision on the advisability of holding this event is made by the owner of the site himself, based on the climate, as well as the level of airflow in the area. There is no point in explaining that with high humidity and strong side winds, even with slight frosts, hydrangea can die over the winter. In addition, it is important what the flower is - a bush or a tree. After all, the height of the latter variety reaches 2.5 - 3 m, and in some specimens - 8, or even 10.
Hilling
The simplest technology known to all summer residents. This precaution helps protect the tree trunk from freezing. What to use?
Experienced gardeners recommend hilling with a mixture of soil from the site and peat. Fertilizer not only insulates the soil, but also gives it good nutrition when warm days arrive. Part of the melt water, penetrating deep into the ground, supplies the root system with the necessary nutrients. In this case, the process of applying fertilizing in the spring is greatly simplified.
Recommendations for using fallen leaves, grass, tops collected from the site, straw, and sawdust to cover the bottom of a hydrangea, although they are often found on individual sites, are hardly correct. There are several reasons to abandon this method of shelter.
- Firstly, when the vegetation gets wet, it begins to rot. The result is mold and mildew, which will immediately spread to the paniculata hydrangea.
- Secondly, it is in this mass that small rodents like to settle for the winter.
- Thirdly, there are always various garden pests (or their larvae) on the same old leaves. That is why one of the most common pieces of advice for novice summer residents is that all plant waste collected on the territory must be immediately disposed of by burning.
If the hydrangea is pruned low enough on the eve of winter, and the overall height of the bush is small, then it is advisable to pour a ball of earth so that it completely covers the stems rising above the ground.
Hilling + covering branches
This is the most common technique, since in most regions the temperature drops quite low in winter.
How to cover the branches:
- If they are not particularly long, then it is enough to tie them and insulate the resulting “cocoon” with suitable material. There is a large selection - old tree branches, spruce branches, roofing felt (covered with plastic film). Everything else will be provided by snow crust - this is the most reliable natural “blanket” for any plant in winter.
- If the stems are long, the branches will have to be bent as close to the ground as possible. This makes covering them much easier. The process is simple, the main thing is to securely fix it so that during the winter they cannot straighten (for example, in strong winds).
First way. “Pin” the tops of the shoots with metal staples. They are easy to make from pieces of thick wire. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that these fixation elements must have long “antennae”, otherwise they will not be firmly held by the ground and will jump out of it relatively easily.
Second way. Place a piece of board on the ground with nails driven into it (on the reverse side). The branches are tied to their protruding ends.
All that remains is to securely cover the hydrangea on top. What has already been noted.
It is more difficult with mature bushes, the branches of which are difficult to bend due to their considerable thickness, and therefore poor pliability. In this case, it is advisable to completely cover it with some kind of insulating fabric. Experienced gardeners recommend focusing on lutrasil, spunbond or something similar. These materials are specially designed to protect plants from weather “surprises”, including frost. They are sold in several modifications, so choosing the best option is easy.
With this method, paniculate hydrangea is completely “wrapped” in canvas. To prevent the dome from falling apart from the wind and snow load, it is tied (with tape, rope), after which an additional (and it is advisable to do this!) frame structure is installed. It can be constructed from metal arcs and mesh. The point is that it is then covered with a polyethylene film, and the resulting air gap (it is enough to create it at 10 - 15 cm) between the polyethylene shell and the inner protective layer provides more reliable insulation. For regions with frosty winters, this is the best option for covering the plant.
Paniculata hydrangea adapts quite well to growing conditions. Planted on the site, it gradually adapts to the peculiarities of the local climate. This means that as it grows, the method of covering the plant can be simplified over time. But if we are talking about young hydrangea, then it is better to cover it according to the “full program”. This guarantees that she will endure all the “surprises” of the weather safely.
Hydrangea is a flowering plant from the hydrangea family. These are small trees or shrubs. Their inflorescence consists of small fertile flowers, as well as large sterile flowers, which are located between the colored sepals.
Hydrangea, which is what flower growers call this plant, got its name in honor of the sister of Charles Heinrich of Nassau-Siegen, prince of the Roman Empire. Hydrangea (translated from Greek) means a vessel of water. Indeed, the seed pods of the plant resemble a jug. In addition, hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant.
Hydrangea blooms magnificently from early summer until late autumn. This plant qualitatively complements the overall flower arrangement of the garden and delights the owners with its diversity and beauty. In modern nurseries and gardens you can see excellent double hydrangea flowers in white, sky, and pink shades.
Interestingly, gardeners are able to “change” the color scheme of a plant. This is possible if you change the pH level of fertile soil. If its acidity coefficient is less than 5.5 pH, and the soil contains a sufficient amount of aluminum, then the hydrangea flowers will turn light blue. If the pH level exceeds 6.5, the shrub will bloom with pink inflorescences.
Planting hydrangea and caring for the plant
Planting hydrangeas and caring for shrubs will not create any difficulties for either experienced gardeners or amateurs. Wonderful hydrangeas prefer shaded areas in the garden. It is in such conditions that hydrangea will feel as comfortable as possible, develop quickly and delight its owners with gorgeous inflorescences.
Hydrangeas love loose soil, which guarantees excellent aeration for the plant's root system. That is why slightly acidic soil types should be selected for planting hydrangeas. The soil must be fluffed up regularly. It is recommended to add compost to the soil, as well as nutrient mixtures of fertile soils that contain peat, sand and leaf humus.
Flower growers should know and remember: for better circulation of air and moisture in the upper layers of the soil, the ground around the plant should be covered with natural, biological “regulators”. For these purposes, compost, fallen leaves, etc. are used.
If plants are planted to create a natural fence for the site, then it is necessary to dig a solid ditch of small diameter, and then plant seedlings in it. In this case, the distance should be taken into account; between mature shrubs it should be 2-3 m.
How to prepare hydrangea for winter
In order to properly and competently prepare a plant for winter, it is necessary to take into account the frost resistance of a particular variety, as well as the climatic characteristics of the region in which the site is located.
Among all the species, paniculate hydrangea is considered especially cold-resistant, quite rightly. This plant can be found even on the Kuril Islands and Sakhalin. There are varieties that can withstand extremely low temperatures, down to -35°C. It is advisable to cover these varieties for the winter only around the trunk. This will be quite enough to protect the root system. As for the most popular among flower growers, large-leaved hydrangea, it is in dire need of full protection in preparation for winter.
But regardless of the variety and cold resistance, each type of these flowering shrubs must be prepared for the winter. As early as September, you should stop watering the plants and remove the lower leaves. This will help the young shoots become woody faster. Before the predicted onset of frost, you should get rid of all leaves, except those that are at the very top and protect the flower buds.
Before insulating a plant, you need to clarify which variety is in your garden. If slight freezing of branches for paniculate and tree hydrangea does not pose a significant threat, then the flower buds of large-leaved hydrangea must be protected during the cold season.
How to cover a plant for the winter
There are several time-tested ways to insulate flowering hydrangea shrubs:
- Wrap the branches of the plant with a rope, carefully bring them closer to the soil, on which you first need to lay out the boards with nails. Using a rope, secure the branches in this position, tying them to the protruding nails.
- Young bushes are laid on natural litter (spruce branches or leaves). For fixation, improvised materials are used (stones, bricks, etc.). Both adult and young plants need to be sprinkled a little with dry leaves, and then covered with spunbond or other suitable material.
- Before winter, the tree trunk circle must be covered with spruce branches, and plant shoots must be laid on it. They need to be laid out “in the sun”, and the bases must be secured with wooden or metal brackets. The plant must get used to this situation. In order to achieve this, the staples should be gradually moved from the center to the periphery. It is customary to insulate the top of the shoots with spruce branches and lutrasil. To ensure that flower buds are protected from freezing in winter, plastic bags with dry leaves should be placed along the periphery of a horizontally fixed shrub. Plastic bags with leaves should also be placed under the bases of those branches that do not “want” to bend completely. This way you will protect them from fractures. The structure must be insulated on top with roofing felt and covered with film.
- The shrub is wrapped with lutrasil or spunbond for the winter. After this, a rigid mesh frame is constructed above the insulating material at a height of approximately 25 centimeters. It should rise 10 cm above the bush. The net must be filled with dry leaves and covered with waterproof material on top.
You can learn in detail how to properly protect container specimens before the onset of winter on thematic forums or from training videos.