20.10.2017 3 090

When to plant radishes in spring open ground to reap a tasty harvest?

The time to plant radishes in open ground in the spring comes much earlier than other vegetables, so it is worth following the timing and sowing technology in order to really harvest tasty and early harvest…

Radishes - growing conditions in open ground

Juicy and crispy radishes are an early vitamin-rich root vegetable, the taste of which will pleasantly diversify the spring menu; this crop grows better with short daylight hours and prefers cool weather. If the sun stays in the sky for a long time, and the air temperature remains at high levels, radishes often go into the arrow, so the timing of sowing radishes in the ground in the spring should not be postponed until later.

The temperature suitable for sowing radishes is from +10 degrees during the day, and if the air warms up to +13 ْ+…15 ْC during the day, the first seedlings will appear a week after sowing. If the weather is pleasant with spring heat (more than + 20 ْC), seedlings appear in 3-4 days. For normal plant growth, a temperature in the range of +10 ْ+…20 ْС is required.

Under such conditions, the spicy vegetable reaches technical ripeness in just 3 weeks. But, even if the temperature drops below the specified limits, there is nothing to worry about - the radish seedlings do not die, even if the weather brings a surprise in the form of frosts on the soil. Therefore, the timing of planting radishes in the spring is so different from the time periods in which other vegetables can be planted.

Another difference between the period when planting radishes in open ground in the spring is the soil moisture indicator; in the spring it is saturated with moisture from snow and, as is believed experienced gardeners, is a powerful natural biostimulant that promotes rapid seed germination, so with the onset of heat, you should not wait for the soil to dry out under the scorching rays of the sun.

Another advantage early sowing radishes - the absence of pests, because the earlier the vegetable is planted, the less risk it has of being attacked by the cruciferous flea beetle; this insect damages the leaves and lays larvae at the base of the vegetable, and tiny worms bite into the pulp, which affects its appearance and taste.

radishes in a greenhouse - in the photo

When to plant radishes in spring in open ground - planting dates

The timing of sowing radishes varies depending on the region - air and soil temperatures vary climatic zones reaches necessary indicators V different time Therefore, there are no universal dates for sowing radishes.

The period when planting radishes in spring in open ground in the Moscow region and the middle zone begins in the third ten days of March and the sowing season of the early vegetable here continues until the end of May. You can plant radishes in these regions every 10 days, so that the ripened harvest of root crops can be harvested every day throughout May and early June.

A little later there comes a time when you can plant radishes in open ground in the spring. Leningrad region, here the temperature reaches the required levels in early April, and you can sow radishes in the beds until the 2-3rd decade of May.

IN northern regions In the European part of Russia and in Siberia, stable warmth sets in closer to the beginning of May; it is during this period that the time comes when to plant radishes in the spring in open ground, and this must be done without delay, but in the southern Urals the sowing time begins a little earlier - from 20 -25th of April.

The period when planting radishes in spring in open ground in Belarus and Ukraine begins at the same time as in the Moscow region, but in southern regions In these countries, sowing can be done earlier - already at the end of March, the same dates apply in the southern regions of Russia, in the Kuban, in Rostov region, in Crimea.

In addition to weather conditions, when choosing the time to plant radishes in open ground in the spring, most gardeners also take into account lunar cycles. The phase of the moon is believed to be of decisive importance for various cultures - for some favorable periods sowings begin on the new moon, while others are best planted on the waning moon. Regarding this pungent root vegetable, the time to plant radishes is lunar calendar, occurs on the waning moon, it is believed that when sowing in this cycle, the root develops better. If you want to know the exact dates, take a look at, which will tell you exactly which days are best to plant and care for.

Sowing radishes in the ground in spring - technology

In order for radishes to please you with a good harvest, in addition to choosing the timing, you need to pay attention to the choice of location and its preparation. It is advisable to do this in the fall, because adding nutritional supplements to soil that has just thawed will be problematic. In the previous year, cruciferous vegetables and herbs should not grow on it, so the ideal predecessors for radishes are garlic, tomatoes, potatoes and onions.

preparing a bed for radishes - in the photo
high bed for radishes - in the photo

The bed is dug up, the roots are removed from the ground, compost and humus (10 kg/m2) are added to it. If the soil is not nutritious enough, granulated superphosphate (20 g/m2), potassium sulfate (15-20 g/m2), ammonium nitrate (20 g/m2) should be added to it; on dense soils, coarse river sand and peat (1 each) should be used. kg/m2).

In order for cultivation to be successful, seed material is prepared, and to speed up germination, radish seeds are soaked in various stimulants, for example this could be:

• water with a spoonful of honey
• heteroauxin (according to instructions)
• aloe juice diluted in half with water

When the time comes to plant radishes in open ground in the spring, the beds are leveled and grooves 1.5 cm deep are made on them; the bottoms are compacted so that the seeds do not sink deeper. The distance between the grooves is 10 cm, and the seeds are placed in them 5 cm apart. Then the furrows are filled with loose soil and the surface of the bed is compacted. Next it is watered warm water, and if the weather is windy outside, cover the beds with film or non-woven material to prevent the formation of a dry crust on their surface.

You need to water the beds with early vegetables as they dry out. Radishes planted according to the recommended scheme do not need thinning after germination. If it was planted more densely, it is necessary to remove excess plants before the real leaves appear. Further care for radishes consists of weeding and watering.

We all love crispy and juicy radishes - this first spring vegetable gives such long-awaited vitamins to our winter-tired body. In addition, planting radishes in the spring is an excellent reason to start gardening work for avid gardeners. Let's try to understand all the difficulties of sowing and caring for this common crop.

Although radishes are traditionally considered easy to grow, unpretentious culture, certain rules Agricultural practices, however, must be observed. For example, sowing should not be postponed until the end of spring, as radishes develop better in early spring, when daylight hours are still short, otherwise the crop becomes prone to bolting.

If speak about early varieties crops, then they are able to produce the first harvest of root crops within 20-30 days after the first shoots hatch. Therefore, if you want to harvest vegetables as early as possible, you need to start preparing the beds for sowing early: as soon as relative spring warmth has established. Moreover, radishes are rightfully considered a cold-resistant plant - planted in open ground, they can easily survive nighttime temperature drops down to -5 degrees.

The optimal time to sow radishes is considered last days March or early April, when Sun rays They are already quite actively warming the earth. To answer the question of how to choose the right time for sowing radishes, you need to consider average daily temperature

, which occurred in your region: for example, if you plant radishes at a temperature of +8 degrees, the seeds will not sprout for a long time. If the crop is sown at a time when average temperature has reached +10 +15 degrees, the first green sprouts will begin to confidently appear in just seven days. Radish seeds sown in open ground germinate fastest when the air temperature stops at +20 degrees: in this case, you will see seedlings already on the fourth day. Thus, when to plant radishes you can decide for yourself, simply focusing on weather

and the expected result.

Spring radishes are also good because you can collect the first selective harvest already on the 20th day after germination - these will be medium-sized (but the most long-awaited) root crops, which should be carefully removed from the garden bed, thinning the rows. A little more time will pass, and it will be possible to harvest the remaining plants. Many gardeners confidently take advantage of the short growing season of the crop, extending the season throughout the spring - to do this, we simply sow radishes in several stages, observing a frequency of approximately 7 days. By the end of spring, you can gradually reduce the pace of radish cultivation, since the hot summer season is not conducive to the formation of high-quality root crops - the radishes will grow small, dry and not at all as tasty as radishes harvested in April or May. True, by the end of summer, sowing radishes in open ground can be resumed - cooler autumn air, as well as short period

The ripening of the root crop is quite conducive to another harvest cycle.

Soil preparation It's no secret that all plants, without exception, love high-quality and. Radishes are no exception. Like other crops, it needs a carefully selected and prepared bed. If you plan to sow radishes in March, then you should start preparing the site the day before in the fall.

How to do it? It’s very simple: first of all, you need to add compost or humus to the ground and carefully dig it to the depth of a spade bayonet. Another requirement of the crop is the composition of the soil. It is better to plant radishes in spring in loose, light soil. If the soil in your garden is clayey, try adding a little river sand or peat.

Preparatory work with the soil requires mandatory winter fertilizer - it is necessary to achieve maximum nutritional value of the soil.

To do this, add a little mineral fertilizer to the prepared soil:

• ammonium nitrate – 15g;
• superphosphate – 25g;
• potassium chloride – 20g.

The specified amount of fertilizer is enough for 1 square meter of soil to ensure that radish cultivation is as productive as possible.

Seed preparation

By planting radishes in open ground, you can significantly speed up the germination process. To do this, you need to carry out a simple pre-sowing treatment seed material, namely, try to germinate them:

• Many beginning gardeners are wondering how to grow large root vegetables. It turns out that to do this you just need to soak the seeds before planting them in the garden. The selected material is immersed for several hours in a solution of the Baikal EM-1 preparation, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:500. After this, the seeds are taken out, laid out on gauze folded in several layers and covered with a cotton cloth moistened with the same magic solution. A container with such a “sandwich” is sent to warm place– the seeds will begin to hatch right before your eyes. As practice shows, radish seeds processed in this way produce root crops that will be larger on average by 30 g;
• When planning sowing, you can try to calibrate the seeds - to do this, sift them through a regular sieve with cells of about 2 mm. This way, you can select only the largest and most viable specimens;

• Another trick for those gardeners who have been planting radishes for years is to treat the seeds with potassium permanganate: it will protect the plants from various diseases;
• It is better to sow radishes manually, without using any equipment. So you can endure optimal distance between future shoots, which will provide the plants with the opportunity to develop normally, and will save you from the need to thin out the beds. In addition, you will significantly save seeds - let us remind you that the optimal consumption of seed material is 5 g per square meter of bed.

Landing in the ground

You need to sow radishes in areas suitable for the crop: it is better to choose the southern or southeastern parts of the garden, which are well lit by the sun, but at the same time well protected from cold spring winds. If you have not prepared the soil since the fall, then this is necessary before sowing radishes - March will be enough for you to do all the necessary manipulations.

Add rotted manure or compost to the ground (1 standard bucket for each linear meter of the bed), sprinkle it all on top liter jar wood ash(for every 2 linear meters) and dig it thoroughly. Now it's time to smooth the surface, getting rid of any lumps. When everything is done, you can form rows: for this we make peculiar “streams” at a distance of 10 cm from one another along the entire length of the selected area. You can sprinkle the formed planting rows with crushed coal from the fire - this will add looseness to the soil.

Some farmers prefer to treat the seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate and “powder” them with starch - thanks to this, each seed becomes clearly visible in the ground, because our task is to spread them evenly along the entire length of the row, maintaining equal intervals, in order to save ourselves from thinning out the seedlings. When all the seeds have been lowered into the ground, it’s time to plant them: do not cover the radishes with a thick layer of soil - it should not be more than 1-2 cm.

The main planting of radishes in the spring is now complete. But our goal is a rich harvest, so let's try to take measures to protect future seedlings. To do this, we sow spinach or watercress along the perimeter of the radish plot - these crops effectively prevent attacks from numerous insects. Planting radishes in the spring also involves organizing a protective shelter - the bed should be covered with thin spunbond to protect it from possible cold weather.

Watering and fertilizing

Until the first shoots appear, watering should be carried out directly on top of the spunbond, in the morning every other day. Water consumption should be approximately 1 garden watering can of water settled in the evening for each square meter of beds. After a couple of true leaves appear on the seedlings, watering should be more frequent - now this must be done twice a day, in the morning and in the evening.

Moreover, it is better to finish morning watering before the sun starts to get hot, and evening watering - at dusk. Once every seven days, you can water the radish beds with a solution of fermented grass as an additional feed (two liters of solution for each bucket of water will be enough).

The frequency and intensity of watering is extremely important for radishes - the taste and marketability of root crops will depend on the sufficient amount of moisture. The soil in the garden bed must be maintained in a slightly moist state, without, however, allowing excess water to stagnate - this situation is equally detrimental to the crop: with a lack of moisture, the root crops will be dry, deformed, with a characteristic bitterness, and excessive watering can cause plant rotting. In addition, even short-term drought after excessive watering will lead to cracking of root crops.

If you are growing radishes in a closed greenhouse, we recommend using warm water for daily evening watering: thanks warm water the plants will be able to maintain the required temperature throughout the long and cold night.

Considering the rapid ripening period, radishes show good yield indicators even without additional fertilizer, provided that the soil on your site is fertile. If this is not the case, then you can support the seedlings (on the seventh day after their appearance) with a small amount organic fertilizers– just add a little compost infusion to the water for irrigation. Another option is to mulch the beds with last year’s dried humus or even mown grass.

The main thing to remember when fertilizing radishes is to never add too much! Otherwise, as with most root crops, the crop begins to actively increase green mass, without paying due attention to the formation of a high-quality tuber.

The crop is often and successfully used by summer residents as a kind of marker: radishes are sown directly in beds with cucumbers, beets or pumpkins. Considering short term growing season and early shoots, caring for the beds (weeding and loosening the soil between the rows) becomes much easier, in addition, we get the opportunity to harvest two different cultures from the same bed.

Some particularly resourceful gardeners while away long autumn evenings For an interesting and unusual activity, they glue radish seeds onto narrow and long strips of paper. If such “garlands” are dried and stored until spring, then all we have to do is simply lay the strip on the bottom of the prepared planting “stream”. As a result, thinning of seedlings is not required.

Everyone who has grown radishes on their plot at least once is unanimous in their opinion - you cannot keep plants in the ground longer due date, in the hope that the root vegetables will increase in size. Unfortunately, this will not happen, but the radish will certainly lose its taste and commercial qualities - it will become rotten, dry, and deformed.

Some virtuosos manage to successfully sow radishes for the winter - the seeds are placed in the ground when the garden is fully prepared for winter, sometimes even after the first snow falls. This technology makes it possible to obtain the first spring harvest much earlier than the March plantings begin to bear fruit. It is noteworthy that pre-winter sowing assumes that the seeds are placed exclusively in dry soil and carefully mulched protective layer. Then they will calmly overwinter, remaining in a state of rest (which is important - at the same time they will undergo a hardening procedure), and with the arrival of spring they will be saturated with moisture and begin to actively develop.

And the last thing I would like to mention is the ability of radishes to accumulate nitrates. Therefore, when choosing a feeding method, try to give preference to organic means: after all, everything that you pour onto the garden bed, you will then eat yourself.

From this video you will learn how to properly care for radishes and get good harvest.

We love radishes because planting and caring for them is easy. Even a novice gardener can easily plant and grow radishes in open ground.

Eating radishes brings great benefits to the body. It contains many microelements, vitamins, mustard oil, fiber, mineral salts, and pectin. The root vegetable normalizes the functioning of the body's biliary systems and stomach, strengthens the heart, normalizes cholesterol and blood sugar levels, and increases hemoglobin.

This healthy vegetable it is unpretentious and productive, but you need to know some secrets of growing it.

Seed selection and preparation for planting

Planting radishes begins with choosing seeds. Seeds are presented in a wide variety in any agricultural store. However, such diversity occurs only in the spring months. If you need to sow radishes in the second half of summer or before winter, seeds must be purchased in the spring.

Exists a large number of varieties that differ in growing time, size, shape, color.

The time it takes to grow a root crop depends on the speed of crop ripening. Early ripening varieties are ready for consumption 18 days after planting. Mid-season varieties grow within 30 days and late-ripening varieties ready to eat in 45-60 days.

Varieties differ in size and root shape - large and small, round, cylindrical and flattened.

Interesting difference in color. It comes in red, white, purple, yellow, and colored with a white tip.

There are European and Asian varieties(Japanese and Chinese), different to taste.

You should take into account the seed sowing rate of 2 grams per 1 sq.m. to purchase the required number of seeds.

To take away quality seeds, you need to pour them into a salt solution. Poor quality seeds will float, they can be thrown away, and the remaining ones can be prepared for planting.

Radishes are preferably planted with moistened seeds. Before planting, soak the seeds until they swell in a very light solution of potassium permanganate, wrapped in a gauze napkin. They should swell, but not germinate.

Choosing a planting site, preparing the bed

Growing is possible in open ground or a greenhouse. A greenhouse is needed to obtain a very early harvest and in areas with a cold climate. Growing in open ground is more traditional.

For planting, you need to choose a sunny place; in the shade, only leaves of the radish will grow, and the root crop will not set. The soil must have neutral acidity; it is dug up and freed from weeds. Before planting, it is advisable to add compost or humus at a rate of about 2 kg per hundred square meters.

Bring in fresh manure it is impossible, the radish roots will be crooked and rough.

It is better to prepare the bed in the fall and level it with a rake in the spring. Then the ground will be soft, which is what is required for good growth. If the bed is being prepared in the spring, then it must be done in advance, 2 weeks before planting, so that the soil settles after processing.

You can plant radishes after potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, beans, and onions. You cannot plant after cruciferous crops: cabbage, turnips, radishes; disease spores and pests of these crops accumulate in the soil.

After planting the seeds, it is advisable to cover the area with a film on the arches, which will not only speed up the germination time, but also block access to the seedlings for insect pests.

Rules for planting radishes

Planting begins in early spring, early April. This cold-resistant crop grows at +15°C during the day and +5°C at night. Seeds germinate at +2°C heat and are not afraid of return frosts. This is a culture of short daylight hours. With 12 hours of sun, radishes grow in an arrow.

It can be planted in April-May and August-September. You can plant it before winter in November and even in winter under snow. Then in the spring the harvest will be ready 2-3 weeks earlier than with spring sowing.

Radishes have large seeds and are not difficult to plant. In the garden bed, you need to prepare grooves 2 cm deep, pour a thin layer of sand, pour water and place the seeds in the grooves. If you sprinkle seeds frequently, you will have to thin out the planting. If you have enough patience, it is better to spread the seeds at a distance of 5 cm, then there will be no need to thin out the plantings.

At large areas sowing, it is very convenient to use a special marker. The marker is similar to a rake, but instead of sharp teeth it has rounded wooden short teeth; for radishes, teeth with a distance of 5 cm are needed. Using a marker, the seeds are placed at the same distance and depth, which has a positive effect on the harvest.

You can plant it either in a separately prepared bed or on the sides in beds with cabbage, carrots, and beets. Such plantings are called compacted. Radish growth time is very short. It manages to ripen while neighboring plants are just beginning to come into force. And then the harvest is harvested from the beds of other vegetables long before they are ready.

When planting radishes in mid-summer, if there is such a need, the beds should be covered with black agrofibre on arches. The length of daylight should be no more than 12 hours, otherwise the radishes will go to waste.

If you need to plant radishes late in autumn or winter, then the beds are prepared in advance. Seeds are sown dry without soaking. The rows with seeds are covered with fresh soil in a 2 cm layer.

When to plant radishes in 2019 according to the lunar calendar

• April - 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18
• May - 12, 13, 14, 15
• June - 10, 11, 12, 15, 16

Before winter in 2019 you can sow:

• October - 7, 8

Care, watering, fertilizing

Care does not present any difficulties; this culture is not capricious.

Radishes should have plenty of space; thickened plantings only produce tops; they need to be thinned out. Torn green tails without root vegetables can be used in spring green salads, as they contain great amount useful substances.

Radishes love watering and without a sufficient amount of water you cannot get beautiful and even root crops. The first watering is necessary a week after emergence. It is necessary to water daily, at the root, at the rate of 2 liters of water per 1 sq.m. After watering, the soil must be loosened, preventing the formation of a dense crust.

With a lack of moisture, the vegetable becomes rough, bitter and tasteless. If there is excess, it cracks and tastes watery.

The plant has low availability requirements nutrients in the soil. It is not necessary to fertilize; radishes grow very quickly. It is better to pre-fill the soil with fertilizers before planting.

But if the root crop grows weakly and has light-colored leaves, it means it does not have enough nutrition. As usual, in the spring the plants are fed with nitrogen fertilizers. It's better not to use chemical fertilizers, and natural - eggshells, herbal infusion, sapropel. Application of manure or bird droppings is not permitted.

Pests and diseases

It has a lot of pests. These are cabbage moths and larvae cabbage fly, and weevils. To prevent their invasion, it is necessary to strictly monitor crop rotation. It helps a lot to keep pests out of the plant. protective film, stretched over the garden bed.

Crop care for pest control involves pollinating radish plantings with ash or tobacco dust.

Sometimes he suffers from white and gray rot, powdery mildew, black leg on seedlings. These diseases arise from a fungal infection due to excessive dampness. It is no longer possible to save the plantings from them. It is necessary to destroy the infected seedlings, disinfect the soil and sow the root crop again.

Harvesting and storage

Radishes do not ripen at the same time. Harvesting is done selectively based on the appearance of the root crop.

Before harvesting, the garden bed with radishes must be watered, otherwise in dense, dry soil the tops may tear away from the root crop. Harvesting in the morning the right quantity. The leaves are cut to 2 cm, the roots are not touched, as the radishes will quickly wither.

In the refrigerator in plastic bag it can be stored for a week. It is not stored for a long time, it becomes lethargic and tasteless.

Like carrots or beets, they are not stored in the basement in winter. If you need fresh radishes for a long time, then they are not stored, but planted every two weeks for constant harvesting.

Every gardener has a crop on his work list, when growing it there is always something wrong, something not quite right.

Among such crops, radish is no exception for many.

The fastest ripening crop.

It seems that there is enough knowledge for growing radishes, but the harvest is still not encouraging - pathetic tails will grow.

We decided to help correct the situation for such gardeners.

We collected all the most valuable information about the process of growing radishes, checked for own garden, and now it is with great pleasure that we share our experience.

Preparing for planting radishes or what, where, when is required from the gardener?

Radish is a cold-resistant crop. For cultivation, you can not allocate a separate area, but plant it in front of heat-loving plants.

Firstly, before the time of planting the crop seedlings, the radishes will already have time to ripen.

And, secondly, you can use it as a lighthouse crop. For example, if you sow radishes on a plot of land where you plan to grow tomatoes in the future, you can even harvest several harvests of radishes, provided that you sow every week.

In this way, you and the land will be prepared for planting the next crop.

Preparing seeds: how not to get lost in the huge selection? what to give preference to?

If this is not your first time sowing radishes, then, of course, there are proven varieties that you usually prefer. But, if you are faced with growing this crop for the first time, or have decided to diversify your diet, the following information will be useful to you.

Almost always, all cultivated crops have old, proven varieties, and there are also new ones, most often hybrids. Hybrids are characterized by high resistance to adverse factors, productivity, beautiful appearance, precocity.

If you see F1 on the seed labeling, this means that the seeds are hybrids.

If you don’t know which seeds to give preference to: hybrids or varieties, then try both, and by the end of this experiment you will already know which you liked best.

First you need to decide where and when you will sow radishes. Based on this, please read the description carefully when purchasing.

Provided that you will grow radishes in protected ground, you should choose varieties that are suitable for growing in greenhouses and can also be grown year-round. These varieties are not fussy about lighting.

Do you want to get the earliest radish harvest possible? Then give preference to early ripening and ultra early ripening hybrids and varieties.

Often on the packaging of such seeds there is a designation: “16 days”, “18 days”. If the optimal temperature is 16-19°C, then the root crop will form within 18-22 days.

This is important to know! Early and ultra-early hybrids and root varieties form very quickly. And after reaching a size of 5 centimeters, they stop growing. This has long been genetically laid down. Therefore, do not expect big fruits from such varieties. It is also important not to overexpose them in the beds; the root crops will begin to grow woody and become inedible and hollow.

If you plan to carry out the sowing process with untreated seeds, then it is advisable to pre-calibrate them and soak them before biting.

Calibration can be done by sifting the seeds through a sieve with 2 millimeter mesh, after which, leaving the largest ones. Soaking should be done for 1-3 days, this will shorten the time of germination and it will proceed more smoothly.

A little about what time radishes usually ripen

Very important characteristic radish is its ripening period. Fans of super-early ripening varieties can be advised to pay attention to: “Early Red”, “18 days”, “Ultra-early Red”.

But, remember, if you read on the packaging that the ripening time is so many days, then this indicator is subject to the cultivation of the crop at optimal temperatures (+15 - + 30 degrees).

If grown exclusively in open ground, then the temperature should be warm both day and night. In other colder conditions, radish cultivation will be delayed.

It should also be mentioned that the timing of radish ripening is directly affected by the size of the seeds. The larger the seeds, the sooner the radishes will grow.

Soil preparation: when to start? And anyway, is it necessary to start?

It is advisable to prepare the soil for sowing radishes in the fall. Before digging, add per 1 m2: about 50 grams of superphosphate, 15 grams of potash and salt and half a bucket of humus or decomposed compost.

If you did not prepare the soil in the fall, then the main thing is not to make a big mistake in the spring: never apply fresh manure to the soil, this will make the radish hollow inside. Fertilizing is possible only with rotted organic matter.

Radishes are best grown in loose soil, on a heavy one, shooting is inevitable. If the soil is heavy, then you can add sand, compost, or neutral peat.

Ideal pH acidity is 5.5-7.0. The soil is more acidic, it is advisable to lime or add ash, otherwise the fruits will be prone to clubroot disease (growths grow on the fruits).

Good predecessors for radishes are: beans, tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers.

If the bed is well prepared in advance, the crop will not need further feeding. But, if you notice that:

• The tops and roots are poorly formed, and the leaves become yellow, then it is necessary to feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizers. For example, it could be: an infusion of dandelion with nettle, or an infusion of ash (1 glass of ash per 10 liters of water).
• If the leaves look good, but the root does not set, then apply potash fertilizer.

How to organize radish planting correctly?

Radish is a long-day crop and is very cold-resistant. Based on this, it is recommended to start sowing as early as possible. If the soil is protected, then you can start sowing in the third ten days of March.

If sowing is carried out under film or in open ground, then from the second half of April, as soon as the soil allows. Alternatively, you can sow before winter.

Have radishes on the table all year round is possible only if the following sowing points are observed:

• After the first early sowing, radishes can be sown by conveyor all year long, thus continuously obtaining fresh harvests. To do this, you can sow the seeds immediately after the radishes from the previous sowing have one or two true leaves. This method of cultivation is possible for varieties resistant to flowering.
• If sowing is carried out at the end of May or early June (you can sow after lettuce or onions), then it is desirable that the bed is well lit, but without the sun hitting it at midday. If you sow in constant partial shade, then you will grow not radishes, but tops. It is advisable to cover the bed for the next 10 - 12 days with a dark film (from 7 pm to 7-8 am). In this way, you will contribute not to the development of flowers, but of root crops.
• When sowing in early July, the bed also needs to be covered with film, and also ensure that the soil is sufficiently moistened.
• Late August - early September: you can sow in greenhouses; by this time they have already been freed from tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Daylight hours are shortening, so there is no need for black film.

Radishes germinate at temperatures of -1...-2°C. The optimal temperature is +15-+18°C. If the temperatures are very high and there is also insufficient lighting, then the growth of tops will be inevitable and the root crop will become coarser. Seedlings can withstand frosts down to -4°C.

It should also be understood that even if the seedlings can withstand slightly sub-zero temperatures, in other words, short-term frosts, this does not mean that the radishes are growing at this time.

At cold temperatures, radish growth is inhibited - “sits and waits for warmth.” Based on this factor, this crop is often grown in greenhouses or under film. Obtaining the predicted result in such conditions is more realistic.

Summer crops ripen in approximately 20 days. Depending on the type of precocity of the fetus different period technical maturation. Most shoot immediately.

Another problem during summer growing is the cruciferous flea beetle. The moister the soil, the less likely these pests will appear. You can also keep the seedlings under loutralis.

Radish sowing scheme: calculating the correct distance for a decent harvest

And yet, experience shows that radishes sown one seed at a time develop faster, and the likelihood that the plant will shoot an arrow is less than that of the transplanted version.

If you strictly adhere to the radish sowing scheme, then in the future the plant will develop correctly, the leaves will be able to take a horizontal position.

It is dangerous to sow deeper - the root crop may not set. The best option You can consider sowing approximately 15 grams of seeds per 10 m2. Do the math for yourself: 1000 seeds weigh about 7-10 grams. Germination persists for five years.

This is interesting! Until recently, it was generally accepted that those varieties with round root crops tolerate replanting easily. If there were dense shoots, it was often recommended to plant them. What was not said about varieties with long roots.

In these varieties, during transplantation, the main part is taken by the root, which is damaged. The result is a gnarled, twisted, deformed root crop. Grow radishes from seedlings or stick to them right away correct scheme sowing, it's up to you, but before you make a decision, weigh the pros and cons of both methods.

We dig deeper, and the result is lower and lower: planting depth

At any time of the year, before sowing radish seeds, the furrows should be watered generously. The depth should not exceed 1 centimeter. After that, the grooves should be filled with loose soil.

If the sowing process is organized with spacing, it will turn out to be very labor-intensive. You can speed up and thus simplify it by using tape when planting. You can make it yourself, or buy it.

Proper care of radishes is the key to a generous harvest

Radish care is minimal - daily watering, especially in dry, hot weather. If you try to grow radishes without moisture, then rest assured, you will not succeed. It is enough to keep radishes without moisture for several days, and this will lead to improper development.

A sure sign that the radish grew with a lack of moisture is that the root crop is hard and bitter, the root crop is rough and hollow, and the plant shoots quickly. Especially radishes require regular watering after the appearance of the true leaf, since it is at this time that the root begins to form.

Without moisture, radishes will not grow. But, you should not overdo it with watering, since waterlogging can lead to cracking of the root crop. It is advisable to adjust the frequency of watering to the air temperature; if the weather is hot, you should water daily.

Radish culture is light-loving. But, if planting is done in early spring, then you can safely sow in the partial shade of trees, until the leaves bloom.

Some gardeners also include loosening the soil and removing weeds as maintenance work. But we would not advise you to do this, so as not to damage the root crop, which is formed almost on the surface.

And if you planted in the ground without weeds, then until the radishes grow (25-30 days) weed grass the bed with the crops will not have time to overgrow.

It is advisable to sow radishes on fertilized soil. If you go deeper into school curriculum, then we can remember that almost all root crops “give preference” to potash fertilizers.

Radishes are no exception. Feeding, if necessary, should be organized from the same series. Urea should be diluted at a rate of 10 grams per bucket of water.

Pests, all the most effective control methods

Pests are frequent visitors to gardens. They also visit radishes, and these can be: cruciferous flea beetles, naked slugs, wireworms, cutworms, garden earwigs, field bugs, midges.

By the way, the flea does not “punch holes” in wet leaves; it waits for them to dry. It is especially rampant in dry, hot weather. The main thing is to save young seedlings from the cruciferous flea beetle. Then, when the foliage grows and there are moderately many fleas, you don’t have to worry - they won’t have time to settle down.

Most effective methods pest control are considered folk remedies. You can protect your radish crop from many pests by pre-treating the garden bed with tobacco dust or ash, or garlic infusion. You can also choose a good neighbor for your radish, and he will take care of decent protection.

Harvesting and proper storage

The harvest is selectively harvested, first the already formed root crops are collected, and the rest are left to grow to technical ripeness. Root crops should be harvested when they reach medium size. Most often this is done in 2-3 approaches at intervals of 4-5 days.

Radishes do not store well. Unless you store it in the refrigerator or in the cellar. To do this, it is advisable to put the root vegetables in a plastic bag so that they do not dry out.

A prerequisite for good preservation is cutting the tops. Radishes with uncut tops can only be stored for a few days.

Only some late-ripening varieties of root vegetables can remain in the cellar long time(up to four months) without losing quality.

If the root crops are not harvested, radishes can live in the ground for up to two years. This also speaks about the frost resistance of this crop. But the root crops are not harvested, but rather, on the contrary, those gardeners who want to get the seeds themselves also plant them.

Radishes are most often cross-pollinated, but there are also cases of self-pollination. The flowers are collected in neat inflorescences, and the color depends entirely on the variety: white, pink, red, lilac, violet, lilac. The petals, like all cruciferous plants, are arranged crosswise.

Considering the fact that every second gardener, who has even the smallest piece of land, tries to grow radishes, we deeply hope that all of our above tips will definitely be useful to you, and that the radish harvest will please you. And this champion of ripeness will open the season of abundance of the freshest vegetables.

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Radishes have always been considered the simplest vegetable in agricultural technology - plant it, water it, protect it from the cruciferous flea beetle, and in three weeks it’s time to harvest the first harvest. So that our grandmothers don't grow radishes? This has never happened before!

However, in Lately Gardeners are increasingly complaining about difficulties when growing radishes. The seeds don’t sprout, the root crops don’t form, or the plants immediately go to waste – and after winter you can’t crunch fresh juicy radishes anymore. Let's understand the intricacies of growing radishes in order to avoid failures and unnecessary troubles in the future.

Problem	Possible reasons	Solution
Planted seeds do not germinate.	Most likely, the seeds withered and rotted in too damp and cold soil.	A week before planting, dig a small hole twenty centimeters deep, place the seeds in a fabric bag and bury them. In the ground, the seeds will get very wet, but thanks to the bag they will not rot. After a week, they need to be dug up, dried for two hours and planted.
No root crop is formed.	Lack of potassium in the soil, shaded area.	Plant radishes in a sunny place, adding ash to the soil when planting.
Radishes are formed, but the fruits are fibrous and hollow.	Excess nitrogen in the soil, lack or excess of moisture, planting too deep, or radishes are over-planted in the bed.	Timely watering. Do not overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, do not add manure when planting. Sprinkle the seeds no deeper than 0.5 centimeters and remove the ripened root crops while doing so.
The plants shoot up and bloom.	Too much hot weather, long daylight hours, damaged roots, small or old seeds.	Early or late boarding. Cover with dark material. Thinning by pinching rather than pulling. Selection for planting large and fresh seeds.

In fact, there are quite objective reasons for poor radish harvests in last years. The fact is that for several years in a row there has been practically no spring in central Russia. In mid-April there is still snow, and in early May the heat is already thirty degrees. Optimal temperature for growing radishes +15°С – +18°С. It is not surprising that having planted radishes in early May, we get only flowering “tops” and not a single “root” - it’s too hot.

When to plant radishes? Based on current realities, we can conclude that May is already too late. It is necessary to sow either in March-April or in July-August. Radishes are not planted in June due to short nights. As you know, radishes are a long-day plant. During long days and short nights, it tends to flower and form seeds, and that is the last thing we need. Therefore, radishes are sown when daylight hours are short, or this day is artificially shortened for them.

Radishes can be sown before winter or even directly in winter on the ice crust. With pre-winter or winter sowing, seedlings will appear much faster and the root crops will have time to ripen before the onset of heat.

So, what options do we have for sowing radishes?

When to plant radishes to get a harvest

• Option one. Pre-winter sowing. In this case, the bed for radishes is prepared in October-November. A sunny area is selected that is not flooded by meltwater and quickly warms up in the spring. Grooves up to five centimeters deep are cut on it. In the period from November 5 to November 20, radishes are sown with dry seeds in the prepared grooves and covered with peat or humus to a depth of two centimeters.
• Option two. Winter sowing. This option is suitable for those who have the opportunity to visit their site in winter. The bed must be prepared, as in the previous case, back in October. In winter, from December to February, they rake away the snow and plant the seeds directly into the frozen ground, again sprinkling compost or peat on top.
• Option three. Early spring sowing. For those who have a completely enclosed greenhouse, you can safely plant radishes there in early to mid-March. All that remains is to water the plantings from time to time in order to get a good harvest by the end of April and free up the greenhouse for other crops. Radishes should be sown in open ground as soon as the main snow cover melts. You can sow seeds directly into the remaining snow, on the ice crust. When melting, the water will draw them into the soil to the optimal depth. True, planting in cold soil has one drawback - the seeds can wait too long for heat and rot in the ground. If you don’t want to take risks, you can warm up a bed for radishes in early spring. To do this, a week before the intended planting, the area must be watered and covered with film. Microorganisms will quickly revive the soil, and the film will warm.
• Option four. Late sowing. If you didn’t have time to plant radishes in the spring, nothing is lost yet. At the end of July and beginning of August, when the day has waned and some beds have already become vacant, you can try growing radishes again. Late radishes even taste better than early radishes and shoot much less often. It is recommended to cover the bed with the sown seeds with hay. Radishes will sprout well through the hay and will be very juicy and large.

How to sow radishes?

Radishes must be planted in a sunny place, in the shade. good root vegetables will not be. For radishes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, legumes, tomatoes or potatoes are considered. The main thing is not to plant radishes after cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables, even if they are green manure (mustard, oilseed radish, rapeseed).

It is not necessary to dig a bed for radishes; it is enough to loosen the area with a flat cutter to a depth of five centimeters. Then do required amount furrows 2 centimeters deep (if the soil is fertile) or 4 centimeters (if the soil leaves much to be desired). First, a small layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the groove, and then ash. On depleted soils, first of all, place a small layer of compost in the furrow, then sand and ash.

It is better to sow immediately at certain intervals, approximately 4-5 centimeters between plants and 15 centimeters between rows. Then there will be no need to pull out excess plants in the future. Cover the seeds with loose soil, peat or coconut substrate, lightly, without unnecessary zeal. Optimal depth seed placement - half a centimeter. Deeply planted radishes become fibrous.

Choose for sowing only early ripening varieties, the later ones simply don’t have enough time to gain mass, and they will go down the drain. It is highly advisable to conduct a preliminary selection of seeds. Planted large seeds radishes form roots faster. And if you are not lazy and soak the seeds for 10-15 minutes before planting, the radishes will sprout the very next day. When sowing with dry seeds, seedlings appear in 3-5 days.

Caring for radishes: watering, mulching, covering

Immediately after sowing, water the radishes well and mulch the soil between the furrows to avoid moisture loss. Sawdust, pine needles, and mowed grass are well suited for mulch. Water for radishes is extremely necessary; without moisture, you can’t even dream of a harvest - the plants will bloom immediately. Therefore, radishes need to be watered abundantly every two days.

If you did not maintain the distance between the seeds during planting, then the radishes that have grown to five centimeters in height will have to be thinned out. It is recommended not to pull out weak and excess shoots, but only pinch them from above. In this way, it will be possible to avoid damage to the roots of plants remaining in the ground, because radishes with damaged roots go into color.

And the biggest difficulty in growing radishes is the fight against the insatiable cruciferous flea beetle. Best method in this difficult matter - shelter. Immediately after sowing, it is necessary to cover the bed with moisture- and breathable covering material and do this until the tops become coarser and no longer attract flea beetles.

During the period of root crop formation, you can artificially reduce daylight hours for radishes - after six o’clock in the evening, cover the bed with radishes with a dark covering material. This technique allows you to achieve an excellent presentation of radishes - smooth, large, juicy and very tasty root vegetables.

Radishes are harvested as the root crops become larger. Under no circumstances should you overstay the harvest in the garden – the root crops will begin to lose their juiciness, become hollow and harden. Therefore, if you have more radishes than you can eat, just cut off the tops, shorten the root and store the radishes in the refrigerator in a plastic bag. She will stay for more than a month.