A rabbit cage can be easily built at home from scrap materials. But it is important to take into account the shape of the structure and its safety for furry residents. The success of rabbit breeding largely depends on these factors. What should an ideal abode for eared animals be like, what is best to build it from and how to do it correctly - you will learn about this later in the article.
What should a rabbit's home be like?
The development of pododermatitis and frequent injuries to the limbs in rabbits are the first signals of improper maintenance. In the future, such conditions do not have the best effect on the productivity of the wards and their safety. Therefore, the breeder, in addition to feeding and watering, as well as animal stocking density, should pay close attention to the features of rabbit housing.
Ideally, cages for long-eared pets should provide reliable shelter from bad weather and at the same time be well ventilated and illuminated. Constant control over the level of exposure to external factors is important, which largely depends on weather conditions, season and time of day. 
It is unacceptable for animal feces to collect inside. Many rabbit breeders solve this problem by installing a slatted floor. But, according to experts, it is in the mesh cells that the highest degree of injury is recorded. Therefore, such designs are extremely undesirable for rabbits.
These animals are very sensitive to air exchange and dampness. Excess ammonia and hydrogen sulfide have a bad effect on their productivity. Therefore, the air humidity in the rabbit house should correspond to 60 – 70 %.
Important! Fine spinous straw or hay is strictly not recommended for rabbits as bedding. Soft, awnless cereals are preferred. They are used from late autumn until spring. At other times of the year, it is necessary to cover the floor only in cages with pregnant females. And then they do this 5 days before the birth.
Their home should be inaccessible to rodents and predators. It can be built from used boards, plywood, bricks, carvings, and slate. Multi-tiered group structures are ideal for mass breeding of long-eared animals. On them, as on the simplest cells, it is recommended to provide a single- or gable roof. 
Experienced rabbit breeders advise:
- Choose dry and elevated areas for placing rabbit cages, away from sources of dampness and ponds, but in the shade of trees. This is due to eared intolerance to direct sunlight.
- Strictly monitor the ventilation of the structure and prevent the slightest drafts. In the houses of wards, air movement that exceeds a speed of 30 m/s is undesirable.
- For the winter, insulate the cages so that the temperature of keeping the animals corresponds to the range of +10...+20 °C.
- Make sure that in winter closed rabbitries are illuminated at least 10 hours a day. Ideally, this problem can be solved by installing a window on the entire wall on the east side of the structure.
- Install cages at a height of 80 – 100 cm from the ground. This is necessary to protect the wards from rats, and this solution will greatly facilitate maintenance.
Did you know? In Australia, rabbit breeding is prohibited by law, violation of which carries a fine of $30,000. This is due to the fact that local residents consider wild animals to be the most destructive pests. Every year they destroy agricultural crops and, with their vigorous activity, lead to the degradation of entire lands, causing damage to the population amounting to over 600 million dollars.
How to make a house for a rabbit with your own hands
Regardless of what type of cage you prefer, and how many individuals it will be designed for, its basis is: frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. But before you take up the tool, you need to thoroughly understand the required dimensions of the structure and make its drawings.
Design and sizing
The classic version of the rabbit queen cell has dimensions of 70 x 100 x 60 cm. For young animals, the structure can be made according to the same parameters, shortening the length by 30 cm.
It is important for the builder to understand that the entire area of the structure for the female rabbit and her offspring will subsequently be divided into a walking area and a remote nook. The first zone in most cases is a square with sides of 50 cm.
And the second is a blind box with a length of 25 cm and a width of 50 cm. A removable door is attached to the front side of the structure, and a small hole at a height of 15 cm is provided on the wall adjacent to the walking space.
There must be a tray under the floor to collect feces. The floor can be made of densely placed wide slats. When using gratings, to avoid injury, be sure to cover them with a mat, leaving small gaps around the perimeter. 
Experienced breeders advise calculating the height of the rabbit hutch at 55 cm on the front side, and 30 cm on the back side. The slope on the roof can serve as a pallet if placed at the top of the second tier. For reliability, it will need to be galvanized.
Did you know? Rabbits chew 120 times per minute and have more than 17 thousand taste buds.
If you are planning to build a two-section house for adult rabbits, calculate its length within 140 – 210 cm, width 60 – 70 cm and height 50 – 70 cm. The sections will be separated by a V-shaped feeder for grass and hay. On the front side, provide 2 solid doors in the nesting compartments and 2 mesh doors in the walking areas.
Remember that the size of the cages largely depends on the breed of the wards and the way they are kept. For example:
- rabbits about 0.5 is required – 0.7 square meters of area;
- adult males- 0.17 m2;
- young animals- 0.12 m2.
Materials and tools for work
You can build an abode for long-eared pets from any material that you have on your farm. But, according to experts, among all the available varieties, wood has proven itself best. It is environmentally friendly, durable, retains heat well and does not heat up in hot weather.
Did you know? The left rabbit's foot is revered as a talisman of good luck and happiness in many cultures around the world, including Europe, North and South America, Africa and China. It is likely that the belief in the magical power of the long-eared paw originated in European countries from 600 BC among the Celtic peoples.
Metal is absolutely not suitable for such structures. In winter, animals in such a house can freeze, and in summer they can overheat. You should also avoid using chipboard. This material quickly absorbs moisture, resulting in severe crumbling. 
Here is a list of tools and materials necessary for further work:
- 10 wooden beams 3 m long, 30 x 50 mm (for the frame);
- boards or plywood sheets measuring 1.5 by 1.5 m, thickness ― 10 mm (for wall cladding);
- a meter piece of slate (for the roof);
- wooden slats 3 cm wide or welded mesh with cells 15 x 15 mm (for the floor);
- metal sheet 1 m long (for constructing a pallet);
- 4 canopies (for fastening 2 doors);
- boards (for a blind door);
- welded mesh with cells 2.5 x 2.5 cm (for the ventilation door in the walking area);
- metal rods (for a V-shaped hay feeder);
- electric drill;
- hammer;
- wood saw;
- roulette;
- pliers;
- construction stapler;
- square;
- pencil for marking;
- coarse sandpaper;
- 1 kg of self-tapping screws 30 and 70 mm, nails.
Step by step instructions
When everything you need is available, you can get to work:
- Cut the measured length of the beams. On a flat surface, put together the frame of the structure from the prepared blanks. In the case of a multi-tiered structure, be sure to provide a space of up to 15 cm after each of the tiers for installing a pallet.
- Connect the front and rear beams with transverse slats. This is the basis for the cell.
- Measure 4 legs for the rabbit house from the prepared wooden blocks. Pin them to the resulting wooden rectangle so that there is a height margin of 30–40 cm to the floor.
- Measure the slats for the door and use screws to connect them. Then cover the resulting frame with mesh. Fasteners are made from the inside using a construction stapler.
- Measure the required length of the boards and cut the blanks. Cover the frame of the cage with them.
- Hang the doors on the hinges and provide a latch on it. It is convenient when the structure opens from top to bottom.
- Inside the center of the cage, attach a V-shaped hay barn, dividing the space into 2 sections.
- Now you can start building the blind pen. Many rabbit breeders build it with a removable plywood bottom to prevent increased dampness inside the cage. Therefore, this part of the house must be made entirely of boards or plywood.
- Between the nesting and walking areas, install a plywood partition with an opening for the passage of residents.
- After that, make a solid door in the blind part of the cage, also attaching it to the hinges. Don't forget to attach a latch to it.
- Mount the roof from boards or slate. It is desirable that it be folding. Therefore, experienced owners advise using hinged hinges as fasteners.
- Now lay the floor at the bottom of the slatted structure, leaving 1.5 cm gaps between them. If you retreat more, animals can get stuck in the openings and injure their paws. As an alternative, a mesh with small cells is suitable, but then you will need to provide a mat.
- Build a low tray of appropriate dimensions from a metal sheet and place it under the cage. Some manufacturers advise placing this part at an angle to make cleaning easier.
Home improvement inside
After checking the safety of the finished cage, you can begin arranging it. First of all, pay attention to the floor. Rabbits often suffer from pododermatitis from mesh coverings. Therefore, if your structure is made of metal grating, be sure to cover it with a rug.
Products made from carpet and wool are absolutely not suitable for this, as they often cause disruptions in the functioning of the animal’s gastrointestinal tract. Do not forget for a second that we are talking about a rodent that can taste everything within its reach.
After this, lay a thick layer of bedding on the floor. In the autumn-spring period, it is important for rabbits that their paws are protected from bedsores. Sawdust, coarse straw or hay of soft, awnless cereal crops are ideal for this. You should be especially attentive to the choice of material when keeping downy breeds. 
The awns caught in their fur cause discomfort and pain. Straw is preferable because it retains heat and is safe for the eared one. Remember that the larger the pet, the more bedding it needs. For adults, it is enough to lay a layer with a thickness of 12.5 –
15.5 cm.
In addition to the already provided cribs for hay and grass, you need to put a drinking bowl and a feeding trough in the animal’s cage. It is important that these containers cannot become overturned or become clogged with excrement. Therefore, experienced rabbit breeders advise purchasing a commercial drinking bowl, which is attached from the inside to the front side of the cage. And you can build a feeder yourself.
To do this, attach a wooden block vertically in the cage and attach a wooden rectangle 7 cm high and 30 cm wide to it. Pin a guide block on top at a distance of 20 cm.
And after that, sew up the structure with plywood, so that the sheathing fits between the guide beams to the top, and at the bottom rests against the feeder, but does not block access to feed. As a result, you will be able to fill the structure through the top. 
House care
Rabbits are very sensitive to cleanliness in their abode. It is this factor that largely determines the health of pets. Therefore, the breeder regularly needs:
- remove manure from the pan (ammonia fumes have a very bad effect on the health of eared animals);
- change the bedding in the cage daily (otherwise the animal will get sick due to increased dampness);
- Before each feeding, clean the feeders from food residues (rabbits are characterized by increased sensitivity of the gastrointestinal tract);
- change water in drinking bowls every day;
- Every six months, carry out a general cleaning of the rabbit house and completely disinfect it.
Did you know? A two-kilogram rabbit can drink as much water as a ten-kilogram dog.
Getting rid of pathogenic microflora in rabbit cells is not so easy. Therefore, this process cannot be started. The rabbit breeder must understand that infections and viruses are extremely tenacious, infecting each new generation of animals that are bred under these conditions. Consequently, it is possible to prevent the death of livestock by timely disinfection of cages and all equipment. 
Disinfection of cells and all equipment Since the microbes living in the abode of long-eared animals are very resistant to high and low temperatures and quickly get used to pesticides, they can only be destroyed by special disinfection methods. All surfaces (both internal and external) of the rabbitry, all equipment involved in care, as well as the walls, floor and ceiling of the room in which the cage is located must be treated.
Did you know? Rabbits' eyes are designed in such a way that they can watch what is happening behind them without turning around.
First, the rabbits are transplanted from the structure, and only after that the space is cleared of feces, bedding and dirt. Then they remove all the removable elements and use a hose to wash the inside of the cage with a stream of hot water. This procedure is repeated with any detergents and a brush. The same is done with equipment, feeders and drinkers.
After the manipulations have been completed, the rabbit housing is left to dry and only then treated with disinfectants: Virocide, Ash Lye, Ecocide S, Formalin, Glutex, Virosan, Belizna, Virkon S, formaldehyde solution, soda ash or Bromosept-50. 
Now you can return all objects removed from the cage to their place and place pets in them. Their health is no longer in danger.
As you can see, at home, using scrap materials, you can independently build a rabbitry of the required size for a certain number of animals. The most difficult thing in this process is calculating dimensions and preparing drawings. We hope our article will help you resolve these nuances and quickly complete the construction.
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In order for rabbits to grow and develop well, it is important not only to feed them properly, but also to provide them with comfortable living conditions. That is, build comfortable, spacious housing for the animals. The sizes of cages for rabbits may vary. It all depends on what breed they are intended for.
Minimum dimensions
The cages are made in such a way that per head there is at least:
- for sexually mature female rabbits - 0.5-0.7 m2;
- repair rabbits - 0.17 m2;
- young animals - 0.12 m2;
- breeding males - 0.3-0.5 m2.
A large rabbit (giant, Flanders) will need a home measuring at least 0.75 (w) x 0.55 (h) x 1.7 (d) m. Smaller animals (chinchilla) - 0.6 x 0.45 x 0.9 m. Cage sizes for dwarf and decorative breeds of rabbits will be appropriate.
What should the design be?
Typically, rabbit cages are built on a timber frame. The back and side walls, as well as the roof, are made of thick plywood or boards. The front part is made of mesh with a fine mesh (for example, 2.5 x 5 cm). The floor of the cage should be sloping. It is also made from mesh (1.5 x 5 cm) or slats packed parallel to each other. A tray is installed under the floor to collect manure. This design will allow you to keep the “room” clean. The lid, if the cages are installed outdoors, should be made pitched and protruding forward by about 20 cm and on the sides by 10 cm. It is covered with slate or corrugated sheets on top.
The cage should be raised above the ground by at least 70-80 cm. Caring for animals with this arrangement is much easier. And the animals themselves will be protected from attacks by dogs and small rodents entering the cage. Very often, cells are arranged in rows of several tiers. One dwelling can be used for either one or two adult rabbits (or several small ones).
Hanging removable drinkers and feeders are hung on the front side. It is best to make them rotating. This will make feeding the rabbits easier. In addition, animal feces will not fall into the feeders. Next, let's look at what the “rooms” for the queens should be, as well as the size of the cages for keeping rabbits and breeding them.
Cages for rabbits
Housing for sexually mature females is divided into two parts: feeding and uterine. As a partition, use plywood with a hole cut into it with a diameter of 20 cm. It should be located above the floor at a height of approximately 10-15 cm. This is necessary so that small rabbits do not crawl into the aft part. The floor in the queen cell is made not from slats or mesh, but from solid plywood. The front door of the queen cell is made of board or plywood. For the stern part it is made of mesh. Before breeding, the queen cell itself, measuring 0.4 x 0.4 m and 20 cm high, is installed in the nesting compartment.
Standard double option
In addition to multi-tiered ones, long cages are often used in private households. A couple of animals are placed in them at once. Dimensions of cages for double rabbits:
- in length - 210-240 cm;
- width - 65 cm;
- in height from the facade - 50-60 cm;
- height from the rear wall - 35 cm.
Queen cells are located on the sides of such cells. The remaining part houses the aft compartments. The floor in them is made of lattice, and in the nesting compartments it is solid. In the middle of the cage there are mangers made of V-shaped mesh, designed for distributing roughage. Drinkers and feeders for grain are hung on the doors.
Cages with aviaries
Such dwellings are usually arranged for young animals. Walking is very beneficial for teenage rabbits. After all, these animals are naturally very active and love to move a lot. The dimensions of cages for rabbits, designed for two animals, and with an enclosure are usually as follows:
The enclosure is located along the back wall and has the same height as it - 60 cm. The cage and the paddock are separated by a removable partition.
Group cages for young animals
There are other types of similar structures. Of course, in this case, certain cage sizes for rabbits are also selected. Drawings are drawn up, for example, in such a way that the housing turns out to be:
- length equal to 2-4 m;
- wide - 1 m;
- with a front wall height of 50 cm;
- rear - 40 cm.
In this case, the back and side walls and lid are made of thick plywood, and the front and floor are made of mesh. The length of the visor is 30 cm.
Cages for California rabbits
This breed has recently become increasingly popular in our country. It's all about the very good adaptability of Californian rabbits to the weather conditions of any region. They have very thick fur on their paws. Therefore, they do not freeze in winter. For animals of this breed, housing is arranged in the same way as for any other not too large one. The optimal cage sizes for California rabbits are 120 x 60 x 60 cm.
Cells of N. I. Zolotukhin
This option has recently attracted great interest among rabbit breeders. N.I. Zolotukhin has been breeding furry animals for more than 60 years and has independently designed two types of rather convenient and practical cages for them - three-tiered and pyramidal.
The main feature of the first option is solid plywood floors. Only a 15 cm wide strip is made of mesh at the back of the cage. A biological feature of rabbits is that they go to the toilet in this very place (70% of all feces and all urine are collected here). To prevent waste products from falling on the heads of animals from the lower tiers, the rear wall of the cage is made inclined. That is, the grid on the floor protrudes beyond the plane of the complex. The back wall is made of opaque polycarbonate.
The floors of the pyramidal variety of Zolotukhin cells have the same design. However, in this case, the tiers are simply shifted relative to each other by the width of the mesh strip. As a result, the complex takes on a pyramidal shape when viewed in profile.
Another feature of Zolotukhin’s cages are folding feeders. They do not spin on hinges or some complex device, but on ordinary nails. The size of Zolotukhin's rabbit cages is not too large - approximately 70 x 100 cm. However, the animals feel very good in them. When keeping rabbits in cages designed by this farmer, it is not necessary to carry out thorough weekly cleaning. It is enough to sweep completely dry floors from time to time. Manure is cleared from the back of the tiers from the ground 1-2 times a year.
Sheds
So, now you know what size rabbit cages should be. Drawings of such structures are presented on this page. Now let's see where to place the finished cells. Of course, you can put them right on the street. In this case, tiers are usually placed under trees. With this arrangement, in summer the animals will be protected from direct sunlight, and in winter - from the piercing wind. However, it is better to install cages in special sheds. This is the name for structures with a gable roof, the side walls of which are formed by the rear walls of the tiers. That is, the cells are installed in two rows with the facades facing the inside of the resulting room.
Shed doors are made with swing doors. They are often double. In this case, in addition to solid panels, a mesh door is installed. In summer, the wooden doors open. The screen door remains closed. As a result, the animals receive more light and fresh air. On the south side there is usually an enclosure for walking young animals.
Rabbit barn
It is not necessary to install the cages exactly in the shad. You can also protect animals from rain, snow and severe frosts by arranging a comfortable barn for them. The most important thing when drawing up a project for such a structure is to ensure that there are no drafts in it. Rabbits cannot tolerate them at all. It is best to make the roof of a barn pitched. In this case, it will be possible to dry and store hay on it. Floors are usually arranged slightly inclined towards the entrance. With this design it will be more convenient to clean.
Be sure to install several windows in the barn. For good development, rabbits need fresh air and plenty of light. Inside the shed there must be a corner designed for storing equipment.
Cages for young animals are usually placed along the walls. The rabbits' homes with queen cells are in the middle of the barn.
What you need to know
The required dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits, keeping queens and breeding rabbits during production must be observed. If you put a large animal in a small “room”, nothing good will come of it. Deprived of the opportunity to move freely, the animal will develop poorly. The discomfort in the cages also affects the rabbits' ability to reproduce. In addition, with high crowding, the risk of various types of infectious diseases increases.
As you can see, making cages and even a shed for rabbits yourself is not at all difficult. Comfortable homes for these animals have a fairly simple design. The optimal size of cages for rabbits depends only on the body constitution of that particular breed.
Many livestock farms and private entrepreneurs are increasingly paying attention to rabbit breeding. Breeding these furry animals is quite a profitable business. So to speak, it is practically waste-free, since rabbit droppings are highly valued in agriculture as fertilizer.
Types of cages for rabbits
The single-section version of the cage is a spacious enclosure with doors, equipped with drinkers and feeders. The room is designed for one individual or, if the section is large, for walking young animals. A single-section rabbit cage is convenient for breeding animals in small quantities for your own needs.
Did you know? Rabbits are considered silent animals, but these animals often use various sounds to explain their condition. A contented, peaceful rabbit makes purring sounds, pleasure can be indicated by short clicks, aggression can be signaled by growling or grunting, fear can be indicated by chattering teeth, and if the fluffy one screams, it means he is in pain.
The cages, consisting of two sections, are separated by a V-shaped mesh feeder. In such a rabbit house you can keep a couple of animals by opening the flap between the sections when mating is planned.
The cages, consisting of three sections, allow you to keep three individuals (a male and two females); between the sections there are opening flaps. If necessary, one of the females can be allowed in to the male living in the central section. After communication& - divide again.
Cage type state farm "Klenovo - Chegodaevo"
The design of these cages is 240 cm long and 65 cm wide. The material for making the floor in such cages is wood, in a solid sheet or in a slatted manner. Feeders and drinkers are located inside the cages on the floor. There are insert boxes that are used as queen cells with removable feeders and bowls for babies.
Important! Little rabbits are gradually accustomed to adult food. The kids are grated carrots, steamed grain and given fine soft hay.
The convenient design of a two-tier mini-farm was developed and implemented by I. N. Mikhailov. There are two floors of cages on the frame-stand. The roof is made of translucent materials.
The installation of feeders and drinking bowls makes it possible to provide animals with food and water for a week. This arrangement of two-tier cages for rabbits is convenient for those who cannot devote time to animals every day. 
Cells designed by Zolotukhin
Zolotukhin’s design is a three-tier enclosure, two sections per tier. The upper tiers are shifted to the width of the grid of the lower floor obliquely, a kind of protrusion of the floor made of plywood or a flat sheet of slate.
A stationary queen cell is not provided: For a female with offspring, a portable hole is inserted for the winter. In the summer, the female with the rabbits is located in the hay, but is separated by a partition from the rest of the animals.
The feeder in the form of a tray is inserted into the door frame, which allows you to pour food without opening the door.
Does it make sense to purchase an industrial cage?
For large-scale rabbit breeding, factory-produced rabbit cages will save time on making cages yourself. Such cages have many advantages: a clear design, equipped with convenient drinkers and feeders, trays for feces, nests for individual individuals.
The factory nets provide convenient queen cells for females with offspring. Drawings of rabbit cages are constantly being improved, designs are supplemented with innovative ideas, more convenient and rational designs are being invented for both the cages themselves and various devices for the life of animals.
The lack of factory cages in the frequent defects in the production of any parts of the house, the discrepancy between the size of the cage and its future location.
On the other hand, when making a cage for domestic rabbits yourself, the size of the cages is commensurate with the space for their further location. Depending on the number of animals, the type of cage and the placement of partitions, drinkers, and feeders are selected.
It is possible to choose a material that is more convenient for you when making both the entire cage and the tray, feeders and other things.
Making your own cage
Before making housing for animals, you need to decide on the size of the premises: for adult males, females and cubs, for each individual rabbit the footage necessary for normal development and maximum comfort is determined.
Professionals advise calculating the area of a flock for rabbits so that there is at least 0.12 square meters per adult. It is advisable to immediately provide for all the nuances: partitions, location of drinkers and feeders, location of pallets.
Three-tier cages for rabbits will be optimal for a large number of animals; the project drawings will easily fit both a nursery for young animals and separate sections for males and females.
The advantage of such sheds is significant space savings and the ability to install the structure on the street or in a utility room.
Interesting!Newborn rabbits are naked and blind, and already on the twentieth day of life they can feed on their own.
Choosing a location for cells
It doesn’t matter what design you have in mind: small cages for rabbits or three-tier sheds, the main thing is correct choice of location.
The best place for an aviary would be a slightly shaded area, for example, in a garden among trees. In this case, the animals will be protected from drafts and overheating.
Professional rabbit breeders advise keeping furry pets in outdoor conditions: the animals develop immunity to diseases, the quality of the coat improves, as well as the reproductive function and endurance of the offspring.
A good option is against the wall of a large utility room with a protruding canopy, which will create additional protection from precipitation and direct rays of the sun. When kept outdoors, take care to insulate the cages in winter.
Two-story cages for rabbits can also be located indoors. In this case, carefully consider the removal of waste products: animals should not suffocate from the smell of their own feces.
Size and drawing
The dimensions of the proposed premises depend on the breed of animals and their number (take into account the offspring). The average premises have the following dimensions:
- length– 120-150 cm;
- width– 60-80 cm;
- wall height– 35-50 cm.
When developing a drawing, take into account houses for females with offspring and rooms for young animals, think about the location of feeders and drinkers, convenience for you when cleaning cages, partitions that open for mating.
Think about how to insulate an outdoor space for animals. You might like the idea of adding a mesh aviary to the main house.
Required tools and materials
To build cells, it is better to use natural materials for the main parts of the room: wooden blocks, boards and slats, plywood sheets.
For the roof of the houses, it is advisable to use a slate base rather than metal. Metal sheets heat up quickly, as well as freeze in winter.
For individual parts you will need: galvanized mesh, door hinges, hooks and latches for doors. Tools and small parts:
- metal scissors;
- screws and screwdriver;
- nails and hammer;
- pliers;
- grinder, saw;
- tape measure, pencil and level.
The cost of the simplest cage for rabbits in all respects starts from 7,650 rubles (for Moscow and the region). But there is no certainty that the specific cage you like is optimal for keeping (or breeding) rabbits, given the characteristics of the room (territory) in which it will be installed (or outside it), as well as the specifics of caring for pets.
That is why it is more advisable to assemble a cage for keeping rabbits with your own hands, according to your own drawings, especially since it is not very difficult, since in principle rabbits are unpretentious, and they do not need to create any “VIP conditions”. And together with our dear reader, we will figure out how to do everything correctly.
The very first question to ask is what kind of cell (and what for) is required? It may be necessary to build not one, but several different structures at once, or even a complex, similar to a dormitory. For those who do not yet have sufficient experience in the field of rabbit breeding, we will give some general explanations. Without this, it will be difficult to choose the most suitable option.
Depending on the purpose, there are some differences in the device circuit and linear parameters.
For adults
- Double.
- Tiered enclosures (usually 2 - 3 levels).
- "Queen cell". This design has a compartment for the mother rabbit, where she is isolated after feeding the young. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for a mother to eat her offspring.
For young animals
Such cages are intended for rabbits who no longer need mother's milk and are able to feed on their own.
For "teenagers"
Such sections contain young animals aged from 3 months. The most commonly used option, which can accommodate up to 2 – 3 individuals at a time. Recommended dimensions (W x H, in “m”) – 1.2 x 0.4. The length is selected based on the ease of installation indoors (on site). For example, this option.
Looking at the pictures, it becomes clear that there are no exact sizes, shapes, or design features of the cells.
Step by step instructions
The drawing is drawn up arbitrarily, based on the specifics of keeping the animals. But some recommendations are general and should be followed. Let's look at the step-by-step construction of a cage for rabbits.
Choose a place for a rabbitry
In principle, there are few requirements for placement.
- Once the cages are installed, there should be enough space to look after and care for your pets. And it is necessary, and regular. The peculiarity of rabbits is that they are easily susceptible to diseases, and the illness of one often takes the form of an epidemic, and almost all individuals die.
- The most important thing is no drafts!
Decide on materials and drawing
- All structural elements should not be traumatic or “cold” (the rabbit catches a cold easily). The main materials are (frame) and metal mesh (fencing).
- If the floor is made with a slope, then the steepness is minimal so that the animals do not have difficulty moving (do not slip).
- Jumping up is harmful for pets. Therefore, the maximum height of sections is 35–40 cm.
- The compartment should not be cramped. Based on this, the length is at least 0.8, width is 0.45 m.
- Paints and varnishes cannot be used to treat wooden parts. The rabbit, like its “wild” relative, loves to gnaw wood, and the “chemistry”, if it enters the animal’s body, can be fatal.
What to consider:
Features of “street” structures
- It is better to install a double floor, with additional insulation. In this case, the first tier is lattice so that waste does not accumulate in the box, but the second, lower one is made solid.
- The roof should not be covered with metal. It heats up in the sun, and rabbits are quite sensitive to temperature changes. And even in stuffy conditions, they will behave extremely restlessly, only adding to the troubles of the owner.
- The optimal solution is to place the cages not directly on the site (especially on the ground), but to provide stands (supports, legs), that is, to raise the structure above the ground. This will not only protect the animals from possible hypothermia, but will also prevent the appearance of insects and other small living creatures in the sections.
Note!
During operation, especially when placing the cage outdoors, the wood will begin to swell. To prevent the structure from deforming, a small gap should be provided between the door and the supporting frame.
Features of cages installed indoors
- Wild rabbits are burrowing animals. In order for a pet to feel protected, the cage must be made in the form of a house, that is, it must be as closed as possible on all sides. It is easier (and cheaper) to mount all the edges of the “box” from mesh alone, but it is hardly advisable.
- To keep a pet in an apartment (residential building), a section of 40 x 70 (cm) is sufficient, since during the daytime the animal will still be outside it.
Probably, the information provided is quite enough to take into account all the nuances of cage installation. Everything else is at your discretion, dear reader.
The sizes of cages for rabbits differ depending on the age, breed, sex of the rodent and the purpose of the enclosure. There are standard sizes recommended for pregnant females. The location and compliance with the conditions of keeping the animal are very important.
Group structures are used for keeping young animals. Depending on the size of the enclosure, there are from 8 to 20 rodents in the cage. The animals are kept together as long as they have enough space. When the sex of the individual becomes possible to determine, the rodents are seated. It is recommended to keep no more than three individuals over three months old in one cage.
The minimum area of the enclosure for two individuals is sq. m. Height - at least 0.35 m. The size of the structure depends on the number and age of rodents.
Enclosures for outdoor placement are built on one, two or three floors. It is recommended to raise the floor above the ground by 0.35 m. In winter, it is necessary to insulate the enclosures by adding straw to the floor.
Natural materials are used to construct the structure, since artificial ones negatively affect the health and development of rodents.
When designing, it is important to pay attention to the lighting and location of the cage. Young animals need protection from drafts and dim light. Adults tolerate cold and temperature changes better (depending on the breed). But for the winter, cages with young and adult animals are insulated.
Cage for adult rabbits
The size of rabbit cages depends on the age and sex of the rodent. Females with young animals are kept in large cages. For a regular rabbit, the cage parameters are 0.7 m wide, 0.6 m high and 1 m long.
For an adult, the size of the enclosure should be increased to 0.8 m in width, 0.5 in height and 1.5 in length. In dwellings of this size, rodents feel freer, develop faster and grow better.
Ventilation is considered an important stage when designing rabbit housing. The rabbitry should be well ventilated, protected from drafts and bright sunlight. The duration of daylight hours is from 8 to 16 hours. Attention should be paid to cleaning enclosures. Adults should be inspected during cleaning, and disinfection measures should be carried out in the cage.
Two-tier shed
- a two-story structure consisting of several cells placed in a row. The installation of such housing helps to save space and simplify the care of animals. It is recommended to use this type of outdoor maintenance in regions with warm climates or in heated rooms. Sheds are also installed outdoors in the summer.
It is important to build housing, raising it above the ground to a height of 0.5 m. The optimal dimensions of the structure are 2 m wide and 1 m deep. Two-tier sheds can be made independently using a one-sided type from boards, slate and metal mesh.
It is recommended to concrete the foundation to increase the stability of the structure. To simplify the care of animals, experienced rabbit breeders install manure channels and trays. This method makes cleaning easier and reduces the risk of disease.
Sheds allow you to keep several rabbits at the same time. Drawings created at the design stage can be used to create additional rows. All cells in a structure are created the same way. A canopy is installed over the sheds. The structures are installed close to each other.
In warm regions, shad keeping is possible all year round. In winter, water for rabbits is heated. The space between the cells is allocated for storing hay and grass. For feeding, waste-free systems are installed that need to be replenished every 3-7 days.
The bunker feeder is made independently from metal sheets. In the warm season, it is possible to use automatic drinkers. Transitions are installed at an angle to the exit. The back wall is solid. The cage has several windows with bars. In cold weather, windows are closed with wooden sheets or folding doors. In the passage between the shads, a suspended structure is built for transporting feed.
Double cage with queen cell
For pregnant females, a spacious cage with a queen cell is required - a removable design for rabbits up to one month. The food part occupies most of the cage. A manhole is installed between the compartment. Such housing is intended for two individuals of different sexes or two females with cubs. It is recommended to install a slatted floor.
A cage for a female rabbit with a queen cell, the dimensions of which are 2.2 × 0.6 × 0.5 m, is made from natural material in compliance with all safety rules. Rabbits need comfort for reproduction, proper growth and development.
Double cages with mesh aviary
To build a structure with a mesh enclosure for walking you need:
- Mesh with large cells (3.5x3.5cm) – 0.6 sq. m.
- Lumber – 0.2 cubic meters. m.
- Metal mesh (1.8×1.8 cm) – 1.3 sq. m.
The aviary is used for non-pregnant rodents, adult rabbits, and babies older than 3 months.
Dimensions of cages for Zolotukhin rabbits
N.I. Zolotukhin’s cells are widely known among rabbit breeders. The distinctive features of the structures are:
- No pallets.
- Wooden or slate flooring.
- Inclined installation of rear walls.
- Near the back wall, a mesh is built into the floor.
The dimensions of the cage with the queen cell, which is also removed, are 0.7 by 1 m. To ensure the safety of the cubs, a board is installed in front of the door. The queen cell is located in a common cage, fenced off from the rest of the space with an additional board. It is possible to place the aft compartments one above the other. On the Internet you can find cages installed in 3 tiers, photos, sizes, drawings of which are also available to rabbit breeders.
There are also Maklyakov cells - modular systems in which the purpose of the cell can be easily changed. The design uses heated drinking bowls and modern waste removal systems. Infrared heating is used in the aft compartment.
Dimensions of cages for giant rabbits
The “giants” breed of rabbits is common among rabbit breeders who breed rodents for meat and skins. The cage for fattening rabbits of the gray and white giant breeds has dimensions: 0.35 × 0.6 × 0.4 m. If the amount of free space and materials allow, it is recommended to build more spacious housing, dimensions 0.6 × 0.95 × 0, 65 m.
Dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits
The standard dimensions of fattening cages are: 0.5×0.7×0.3 m. Such structures are made from a mesh with square cells, connecting the parts with wire. Install drip or small feeders. During the fattening period, animals should be carefully cared for and monitored.
Cage sizes for California rabbits
Unpretentious in content. Variety - a mixture of, and. The size of the cage for the Californian rabbit is smaller than the enclosures for giant rabbits. The variety is frost-resistant and can be kept without bedding. A dwelling with a feeding section is designed with a size of 0.4 sq. m. m. To keep one rodent, 0.3 square meters is enough. m. The hard hair on the paws allows rodents to be kept on mesh floors. In block structures, it is recommended to exchange animals of the same age category next to each other to simplify care.
Setting up a pit for rabbits is quite simple:
- it is necessary to dig a recess with parameters 2x2x1 m,
- strengthen the walls with slate sheets or concrete;
- put boards or mesh on the floor;
- construct a fence and a canopy on the surface.
It is recommended to monitor rabbits to prevent mating of close relatives, as this worsens the performance of the animals. Availability of water and food is required, as well as regular preventive examinations of rodents.
California rabbits are fed dairy products, fish and meat meal, and nutritional protein supplements. The variety is gaining popularity among rabbit breeders due to its ease of breeding, quality of fur and meat. Female rabbits give birth to 6–8 young rabbits, sometimes in a litter of up to 12 babies.
Optimal cage sizes for rabbits
The standard dimensions of a farm rabbit hutch are 1.5 x 0.8 x 0.5 m. It is recommended to install a mesh door and a mesh insert in the floor.
A cage for a decorative rabbit must be at least 0.9 m in length and 0.7 m in width. At the same time, the animal has enough space to move and play. The height of the cage is determined by the “growth” of the animal.
Housing of the same dimensions is arranged for a dwarf rabbit. Be sure to install comfortable drinking bowls and feeders, and add toys to your pet so that he doesn’t get bored.
Dimensions of industrial cages for rabbits
A distinctive feature of industrial structures is the ability to add new elements without changing existing ones. The modular design has dimensions of 2x2x1x7m. Uterine sections are also built in. For convenience, springs and manure removal systems are installed on the covers. Lifting lids help with cleaning, feeding, removing babies from cages, inspection and mating.
Thus, when selecting a cage for pets, you should pay attention to the animal’s age, gender, breed, and climatic conditions. When keeping rodents on a farm, multi-tier structures installed in several rows are recommended. You should also remember about equipment - feeders and toys for pets.