Autumn processing garden control against pests and diseases consists of several stages: digging up the soil, removing branches and leaves and spraying the garden. I do not recommend neglecting these procedures if you value next year’s harvest. If you've never done it before, this article will help you understand how and when to properly cultivate your garden.
When and why is treatment carried out?
Start processing in the fall when trees and shrubs lose their leaves. This time falls at the end of September - beginning of October. For work, choose a dry, non-rainy day, before the first frost. The main goals of autumn treatment: to rid trees and shrubs of pests and their larvae, pathogens, rodents, and also to protect plants from frost. Rake weeds, fallen leaves, and cut branches into a pile, collect them and burn them outside the site. In some sources I came across advice to dig fallen leaves of trees and shrubs into the ground to ensure additional food. I don't recommend doing this. Often insects lay larvae precisely on the underside of the leaf; digging them into the ground will make their task easier. I would also not leave leaves and straw with a layer of mulch, so as not to attract rodents for wintering. Carefully dig up the soil around the trunk to a depth of 15-20 cm to get rid of pests and their larvae overwintering in the soil. Carry out this procedure carefully, using a rake to avoid damaging the roots of the plants. Let's look at the other two stages in more detail.
Whitewashing plant trunks
Whitewashing the trunks of trees and shrubs will protect the tree from insects and pathogens. Already laid eggs are burned out using whitewash. In addition, treated trunks tolerate frost more easily. Before starting work, lay fabric around the trees. Use a scraper to rid the tree of old bark and moss. Disinfect the surface, treat wounds and cracks on the trunk with garden varnish. Apply whitewash with a wide brush in several layers to a height of up to one and a half meters. Acrylic or water-based paints are sometimes used as whitewash. Special formulations are available for sale. But it’s easy to make the solution yourself. To do this you will need slaked lime, copper sulfate, glue or clay for binding and water. By adding carbolic acid to the solution, you will protect the garden from hares and rodents.
Spraying the garden
Autumn spraying of bushes and trees is carried out using three main liquids: urea, copper and iron sulfate. Do not forget about safety precautions: when working in the garden, wear a protective suit, gloves, and a respirator mask. Buy a convenient one, based on the size of the area being processed. A 5% urea solution will save the plantings from scab. Processing from fungal disease The trunk and branches of the plant, as well as the ground around it, are subject to. But do not forget that urea contains nitrogen. This element triggers vegetation processes in trees. To avoid exposing the plant to frostbite, spray the plantings with urea as close to cold weather as possible. Treatment with a solution of iron sulfate (5-7%) will rid the garden of moss and lichen, in which insects like to lay eggs. In addition, the solution nourishes the bark with iron, which helps in oxidative processes and prepares the plant for wintering. Stone and pome crops, grapes, currants and gooseberries will be protected from most fungal diseases by a solution of copper sulfate.
For greater efficiency, lime is added to it and Bordeaux mixture is obtained. Spraying trees with Bordeaux mixture is appropriate in the fall. This solution leaves burns on the leaves, so using it in spring is dangerous. And in the fall, feel free to increase the concentration of the solution to 3%. Treatment with this solution is the final stage in the autumn treatment of the garden against diseases and pests.
Tilling your garden will require patience and time. But this necessary complex procedures without which to wait healthy harvest you won't have to.
Autumn spraying of trees.
Spraying fruit trees in autumn this is one of the most important procedures performed at this time of year. Thanks to them, we will have better fruit trees and reduce the risk of disease in the next season. In the article we will look at how to perform autumn spraying of fruit trees, and the names of recommended protective drugs.
Why is spraying fruit trees in the fall so important?
A wet and still fairly warm autumn contributes to rapid development fungal diseases, especially on leaves falling from trees. Therefore, autumn spraying of fruit trees is recommended, which will stop further development disease and minimizes the risk of infection next season. The fruits from the garden have long been collected, and pollinating insects appear in the gardens occasionally or have already stopped flying. Autumn spraying of fruit trees and is significantly less harmful than what we produce in the spring and during the growing season. It is worth carrying out this procedure to limit the need for spraying at other times.
For amateur cultivation, in the fall it is recommended, first of all, spray fruit trees copper sulfate , which is usually carried out at the beginning, and spraying apple trees with urea against scab, is carried out depending on the weather, in the second half of November.
Autumn spraying of fruit trees with copper fungicide.
Autumn spraying of peach against leaf curl.
Leaf curl
peach is the most formidable disease of all that affects. The fungal spores that cause this disease overwinter under the scales of dormant buds and in the bark of peach shoots. Therefore, in order to protect the tree from the spring “attack” of curl, we must spray it during the fall. We do autumn spraying of peach when all the leaves have fallen. It is recommended to use a fungicide " Skor", and containing mancozeb - the main element against ( "Ridomil Gold", "Ordan", "Profit")
. The drugs also work great "Horus" And "Mikosan", when using them, practically no signs of curling were observed. The appropriate dosages can be found on the drug labels. When spraying, it is important that the prepared liquid thoroughly covers all the shoots of our peach.
Autumn spraying of cherries against bacterial cancer.
Bacterial cancer fruit trees - very serious disease. Forms on the branches and trunk brown spots, causing the death of the bark. Bacteria, causing disease, overwinter in buds and shoots, so autumn spraying of cherries is very important. During leaf fall, we spray with preparations "Fitolavin" or "Fitoplasmil".
Autumn spraying of cherries to prevent drying of leaves.
A very common disease on cherries is Gnomonia redostomata
(Gnomonia erythrostoma). The leaves become brown, curl and dry out, and partial deformation of the fruit also occurs. To prevent this, we must carry out autumn spraying of cherries. Spraying with the drug Miedzian 50 WP We perform it during the fall of leaves in which the fungal pathogen overwinters. Recommended dosage 25 g. drug per 5 liters of water.
Autumn spraying of fruit trees with urea.
Autumn spraying of apple trees against scab.
Most often it affects leaves and fruits. We can see dark, round spots on them. Infected fruits are not suitable for consumption. To prevent the development of the disease, after the first frost, but shortly before all the leaves fall, we spray the apple tree in the fall with a 5% urea solution. Urea causes rapid decomposition and mineralization, which will prevent infection of the mature tree. Very good result we obtain by dissolving 0.5 kg of urea in 10 liters. water. We try to thoroughly spray all parts of the tree and fallen leaves.
In the same way, against scab, perform spraying.
If you have something to add, please be sure to leave your comment.
In September-October, the foliage on garden trees begins to slowly turn yellow - the plants are preparing for the arrival of winter cold. They feel the approaching winter and garden pests who begin to actively seek shelter. And if you miss the moment, then next year the voracious caterpillars will quickly find their way back to their favorite places and begin to devour young buds and tender leaves of plants.
When to spray trees in the fall
Therefore, autumn spraying of trees in the garden is carried out immediately after the massive leaf fall. At the same time, you should not put this matter off until later: when the temperature drops below +5...6 degrees, the effect of spraying is sharply reduced, because by this time the pests have already managed to crawl deep into the soil or into the bark.
But you shouldn’t wait for the trees to completely lose their foliage; 80-90% is enough. In this case, a sufficient amount of insecticidal solution will fall on the branches and trunk.
If the infectious background is weak, then you can get by with superficial treatment of the trees. But when there are a lot of pests, it makes sense to carry out washing spraying. It is done in such a way as to thoroughly wet the trunk, all large and small branches and the ground under the crown. The solution should also be sprayed into cracks and other openings in the bark.
The optimal weather for spraying the garden is dry and windless with a temperature of +10 degrees. Optimal time- early morning or sunset hours.
Preparations for autumn garden spraying
In order to clear the garden of pests in the fall, it can be sprayed with a 10% urea solution. After a week or a week and a half, it is advisable to re-treat with a solution of copper sulfate with the addition of slaked lime. This composition will destroy not only caterpillars and beetles, but also the causative agents of many diseases.
To prepare it, 300 grams of copper sulfate are dissolved in three liters of warm water, and 400 grams of lime are diluted in 10-12 liters of water. After this, the resulting solutions are combined and thoroughly mixed again.
Drug consumption rates
Before preparing the solution, it is important to estimate how much mixture you will approximately need. To do this, you can focus on the following average consumption rates per plant without leaves:
- for one berry bush - from 0.1 to 1.3 liters;
- for one young tree - 0.5 liters;
- for one adult large tree- 5 liters.
How to properly spray trees against pests
For autumn-spring processing garden crops it is more convenient to buy a sprayer for 8-10 liters, because most store-bought drugs designed for dilution in exactly this volume of liquid. During the operation itself, the liquid in the sprayers must be shaken periodically (every minute or two) so that it remains sufficiently homogeneous.
To protect perennial plantings located near trees ( garden strawberries, flowers, vegetables) you need to throw a film on them. You should also take care of your own equipment: use a protective raincoat, special glasses and a respirator. And, of course, you must follow all the recommendations given in the instructions for the drug used.
In the fall, gardeners have a lot of work in the garden in addition to harvesting. The main task is to prepare garden trees and berry bushes for wintering. A high-quality one will not only help get rid of them, but also prepare the garden for the winter cold. This is especially true for apple trees.
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Pests of berry crops
The most popular berry and fruit crops in middle lane Russia - these are various currants, gooseberries, raspberries, apple trees, pears, as well as stone fruits: plum, sloe, pear.
Great harm to fruit crops is caused by:
- fungal diseases in the form of scab, late blight, found in fallen fruits;
- sucking pests: aphids, mites, psyllids, copperhead;
- leaf-eating pests such as bears, moths, cocoon moths, white moths;
- weevils and tubeworms that attack fruit trees.
For berry bushes dangerous pathogens and pests:
- Californian scale insect, which attacks currants, raspberries, and gooseberries;
- various types of aphids, mites, raspberry beetles;
- stem nematodes, raspberry gall midge, glassworm.
Treating the garden in the fall against pests and diseases
If during the summer season the garden suffered from pests or diseases were noticed, then it is necessary to carry out treatment in the fall. Spraying is carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 degrees. Shrubs and trees are completely treated, and even the leaves under them.
Untreated soil under bushes, as well as berry bushes and fruit trees can provoke an invasion of diseases and pests. For example, the colonization of acacia or plum false scale, leaf roller, and scab. Apple trees are most often affected by diseases. Therefore, to protect the garden, it needs autumn treatment.
Treating the garden in the fall with urea
This preparation is sprayed when the trees have shed more than half of their leaves. However, you should try to complete the procedure before mid-October. This is a very effective remedy for fungal diseases (scab, spotting). Urea also burns insect eggs, larvae and pupae of pests garden plants. More late spraying will saturate the plants with nitrogen and prevent them from preparing for winter.
For processing, prepare a solution of 0.5 kg of urea per bucket of water. If all the foliage has fallen off, then you can use an 8% urea solution for treatment. Be sure to treat the soil around the trees.
It is advisable to carry out any spraying in calm and dry weather. If it rains within 24 hours after spraying, the treatment will have to be repeated.
Treatment with iron and copper sulfate
A good effect is obtained by treating currants or apple trees or with a mixture of copper sulfate and soda ash. To increase the exposure time, add to these solutions laundry soap for better adhesion. A solution of iron sulfate is prepared on the day of spraying the garden. This solution is best used for treating apple trees. It protects trees from the formation of lichens and moss, septosporosis, cytosporosis, and black cancer. In addition, when treating fruit trees in autumn, the future harvest, since plants are additionally supplied with iron necessary for their normal development.
Autumn treatment with copper sulfate is carried out in the second half of October. It is used for pear and apple trees against curl, scab, phyllosticosis, and for stone fruits from curliness and coccycosis. In addition, this solution is used as disinfection when cracks appear on the trunk. For spraying, take 0.3 kg of lime and copper sulfate per bucket of water (10 liters), leave for two days, then boil for 45 minutes and dilute with ten liters of water. Solution consumption: per young plant– 2 l, for adults up to 10 l.
This solution can be replaced with the ready-made drug Nitrafen and used according to the instructions.
What does treatment with urea and vitriol give?
Without treatment or if it is untimely in warm rainy autumn Pathogens can spread quickly, leading to the death of berry bushes and fruit trees.
These drugs allow you to:
- effectively destroy pathogens of various diseases;
- exterminate rodents and dangerous insects;
- protect trees from winter cold.
Treatment with other drugs
- One of the means of protecting fruit trees is whitewash them in the fall. Before whitewashing, the wood is cleaned of lichens and moss. You can prepare whitewash yourself or purchase it at a specialty store. It not only disinfects the plant itself, but also serves as protection against extreme cold.
- For stone fruit crops, grapes, currants, raspberries, gooseberries, it is often used, the concentration of which is stronger in the fall than during spring treatment.
- Preparation 30 effective when sprayed in autumn and spring, helping to destroy aphids, whiteflies, leaf rollers and other pests overwintering in the bark of fruit crops. A special feature of the drug is the formation of a thin film on the trunk and branches of the plant, under which the insects die. It is recommended to use it no more than three times per season.
Autumn soil preparation in the garden
To preserve and protect garden plants, it is necessary to remove and burn foliage in the fall and dig up the soil in the tree trunk before cultivating the garden. When digging, it is necessary to remove weeds and plant debris in which pests can overwinter. It is advisable to do several diggings in the fall. It is worth protecting the trunks of apple and pear seedlings from rodents with matting, cherry and hazel branches, and spruce branches, and then spruce up the bushes and trees. When snow falls, trees can be protected from rodents.
Temperature changes in autumn and wet weather negatively affect berry and fruit crops. At the beginning of October, mineral fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus should be applied to garden plantings. And definitely needed. This will help protect the garden from frost and disease.
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Someone at the end summer season and with the onset of cold days stops all work on summer cottage. But if you still want to go to the dacha, in October and November you can do something useful there - prepare trees, shrubs and perennial flowers for winter, spray for pests and make good use of fallen leaves.
In the fall, it is usually recommended to dig up tree trunk circles under trees and bushes to destroy pests overwintering in the soil. I don’t do this because I’m convinced that everything is superfluous. On the contrary, I fill up the tree trunk circles with weeds and unrotted compost, especially around the perimeter of the crown, where the zone of sucking roots is located. Pests find themselves deeply buried under this layer. It is important to do this after the end of sap flow, otherwise a large number of organic matter can cause unwanted branch growth at such a late time.
I also do not remove all fallen leaves, but pile them into circles around the trunk. Why is it customary to rake and even burn leaves? Because pathogens and some pests overwinter on fallen leaves. But you and I have a way to rid the foliage of them - more about it below.
In spring, you should also not remove leaves from under the plantings. In just a couple of weeks, not a trace will remain of her unkempt appearance. She will be taken away in her own ways earthworms, eat and produce humus. Rotting foliage restores soil fertility. In the forest, no one removes it, and humus in the soil accumulates and does not decrease.
At the end of October - beginning of November, you can apply rotted manure and compost not only under bushes and trees, but also under peonies and other perennial flowers, but also along the perimeter of the crown, and not in the center of the bush.
An additional third of a bucket of ash should be added under the cherries and plums. Even half a bucket won't hurt. It is even better to use dolomite or chalk instead of ash, but its rate must be reduced by 3 times.
If at the end of summer you have not added the phosphorus and potassium necessary for root growth, then, as they say, “the train has left.” Now there is no point in applying these fertilizers. The only thing else that can be done is to add AVA fertilizer to the soil, because it is not soluble in water and, accordingly, is not washed out of the soil by either autumn or spring waters.
In addition, as soon as the soil temperature drops to 8 degrees Celsius, this fertilizer generally stops dissolving in anything, and therefore will be perfectly preserved until the next season.
Spraying against pests in autumn
I destroy pathogens and pests by late (late October - early November) spraying of trees, bushes and the soil under them with a solution of any highly concentrated mineral fertilizer. The easiest way to do this is to use urea (carbomide), taking 500–700 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water - this fertilizer is easily diluted in cold water. If you don't have mineral fertilizers, use table salt, but salt will need 1 kg per 10 liters of water.
You need to start from the very ends of the branches, since this is where the aphids laid their eggs. Then spray all the branches and their forks, since many pests overwinter in the forks and cracks of the bark. Spray trunks and stems thoroughly.
You should not only spray aboveground part, but also the soil under plantings. In the fallen leaves, under it and in top layer Soil pests also gathered to spend the winter. If you spray a solution of such a high concentration, you will destroy them.
Why should trees be sprayed in late autumn? Because by this time the plants should retire, and the chitinous covers of wintering pests are not yet strong enough. The mineral fertilizer will penetrate inside the pest’s body, salt metabolism will be disrupted, and the pest will die, but you will not harm the plant during dormancy. Of course, such spraying cannot be done in the summer, it will cause a chemical burn.
Repeated spraying with a concentrated solution of mineral fertilizer should be done in early spring, before the start of sap flow. Increased doses of mineral fertilizers are detrimental not only to pests, but also to spores of pathogens of fungal diseases. When spraying (not watering), an increased dose of mineral elements does not accumulate in the soil.
It often happens that leaves do not fall from trees for a long time. This is bad, because the very first snow can break the branches - the snow usually falls wet, and therefore heavy. To prevent this from happening, at the end of October it is necessary to force the leaves to transfer the entire accumulated reserve to the tree. In order to cause yellowing of the leaves and then their falling, you need to spray the trees with urea on the leaves (200–250 g - that's about 10 tablespoons - per 10 liters of water).
After the end of sap flow, you can carry out activities to clean the trunks and skeletal branches trees from lichens. To do this, you need to spray them with a 7-10% solution of iron sulfate (about 3 level tablespoons per 1 liter of water). Literally in 3-4 days the lichens will fall off on their own. Such spraying should never be done during the growing season.
At the end of October - beginning of November, water all vacated beds, including those in greenhouses, with a solution of Fitosporin. The predator bacterium living in it will still for a long time destroy pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases, because it dies only at 20 degrees below zero. It is perfectly preserved under snow cover and continues to live and work in the soil.
Should be cut at the end of October perennial asters and chrysanthemums, plant peonies, oriental hybrids(lilies), chrysanthemums, irises.
The aboveground part of other perennial flowers should be cut off and composted only if it is diseased. The soil will have to be sprayed with any preparation containing copper (3% solution - 1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water).
But if the foliage is healthy, then leave the perennial flowers to stand until frost. The frost will break the stems, and they will cover the rhizomes themselves, and in addition, they will retain the fallen snow, and therefore you will not additionally have to cover most of the plants for the winter. But shelters over roses and clematis still need to be installed.
In November, it’s time to protect trees from frost damage and spring sunburn. You can whitewash the trees water-based paint especially for whitewashing trees. But I prefer strapping using propylene fiber from sugar bags. If there is a film liner inside, then it should be removed and the bags should be ripped open. By the way, young trees are not whitewashed, but rather tied. The tying should be done right down to the ground and even covered with soil.
It is not recommended to tie trunks with roofing material or other black material, since sunny weather During the day, the trunks quickly heat up, and at night they cool down - such a sharp change in temperature has a bad effect on the condition of the bark.
How to get rid of mice in a private house
In autumn, mice often look into rooms. They usually run along walls, so place poison bait in several places near the baseboards. Very good and enough effective means"Storm", "Clairat", "Geldan".
These mice repellents are not poisonous literally words. They cause a fatal lung disease, not immediately after mice and rats eat the bait, but after a week, so smart rats cannot associate this food with the disease and do not warn their relatives about the danger.
They like the food, and they communicate this to other animals who also come to eat, so with one bait you practically destroy the entire family. Rodents do not die indoors, because when they have lung disease, they experience a lack of air and go outside. Cats and dogs, as a rule, do not eat such mice, so there is no danger to other animals. But they can eat the food - be careful.
If you are afraid to use such food, then spray the baseboards with ammonia-anise drops or scatter black root seeds along the walls. Mice do not like the smell of anise, and the seeds, clinging to the skin, cause rodents nervous stress- mice will leave your house.
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Discussion
Thank you. Laconically and on time.
Comment on the article "How to prepare trees and bushes for winter: 9 things to do at the dacha in the fall"
Lilacs are still beautiful in autumn - their leaves look interesting when they turn yellow. You can plant Christmas trees! winter and summer in the same color. Trees, bushes, perennials? Preferably something that does not require complex care, because... We don’t go to the dacha... Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs Biological...
Discussion
We are now planting all the shrubs in flower beds or mixed borders. This is how almonds, derain, and barberries coexist in a flower garden. and perennials (also repeating) are planted between them. and each blooms in its own time - creating a composition. The tone is now set by tulips and daffodils + almonds. They will be replaced by phloxes, then there will be peonies.
in general, think about it - maybe you could also place lilacs in such a composition? the lilac will fade - something else will bloom - beauty.
Sakura do you mean bush or almond?
if it is a shrub, then plant it with strict restrictions on the roots (plant the iron sheet deeply), otherwise the shoots will not give life.
I love lilac. There are so many varieties at VDNH, you want ALL!!!
What's the use, let's say, of jasmine? Only the smell. But he's MAGICAL :)
Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Who is this?! How can there be so many other trees around, why purposefully devour an entire bed of apple trees?
Discussion
New shoots began to grow somewhere below. But naturally this is wild, i.e. the thing is completely unnecessary. I'll probably have to pull it all out.
Does that hypothetical animal, elk, roe deer or hare, that eat young apple trees have brains? No brains, probably.
I took a closer look and it devoured very small seedlings (from last year) that I myself had grown from seeds.
Quite a labor-intensive process. Tiny apple trees, 10 cm maximum, were eaten up to half. There were sticks left about 5 cm. Like matches.
Spraying the garden in the spring and 15 more tasks at the dacha in May. Winter work in the garden are mandatory, despite the fact that fruit trees and shrubs are in the garden. Work in the garden and vegetable garden in the spring. With the arrival of spring, gardeners and vegetable gardeners at their country houses and other...
Discussion
I'm just like Mashulya)
I poured boiling water over the currants, sprinkled all the fruit and ornamental shrubs and trees Bordeaux mixture and preventative, sprinkled everywhere spring fertilizer, loosened the tree trunk circles, mulched with rotted manure. Shed honeysuckle, currants and conifers (the latter - warm water), I spilled potassium permanganate on the peonies and beds, added humus to the beds, dug up...
what else?.. I watered all the clematis with dolomite milk with the addition of phytosporin, and watered the roses with previkur (they didn’t come out of winter well).
well..that's all for now)
yes.. I also managed to prune the apple and plum trees at the beginning of last week.
currants and gooseberries were poured with boiling water while the snow lay. We drank everything with prophylactic (from flying) and Bordeaux mixture (from diseases).
trees were trimmed
We watered the beds in the greenhouse with potassium permanganate, sowed radishes (already sprouted) and greens for the first salads
fully opened the roses sunny side and opened the roses where there is less sun, slightly opened the ends of the shelter on the grapes. I removed the cover from the actinidia, but left it covered. clematis and lavender are closed for now.
I collected sawdust from the strawberries, but haven’t trimmed them yet
Crocuses are in full bloom, tulips and peonies have hatched
It's time to feed all the conifers with any product for green needles
I regretted that I didn’t go over the lawn with a scarifier, but we went for one day
Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and before the start of sap flow. The future development of the crown of your tree and the future depend on this. Snow also needs to be compacted around the tree throughout the winter and spring so that it...
Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. There is a garden about 15 years old, large apple trees, pears, cherries, etc., do I need to spray them with something now or not???
Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Please tell us how to prepare two-year-old seedlings planted this year for winter? Apple tree and cherries.
Discussion
Water well, 5-10 buckets per plant (this should have been done before, but now it’s possible).
Feed along with the entire garden (in the fall, feed with superphosphate or special “autumn” fertilizers).
Hill up with peat or compost (1-2-3 buckets per plant). In the spring, don’t forget to uncrowd it in time, otherwise the bark got stuck under the compost once.
Wrap high with old stockings, burlap, and on top with spruce branches or cut shoots of any prickly plant, some are also wrapped in barbed wire (to ward off mice and hares).
Most likely you won’t have to whitewash anything - most likely, most of the trunk will be under the winding. But you can also whitewash it, it’s never harmful :) Whitewash it as late as possible so that it doesn’t get washed away by the rains.
Even in the middle of winter, 1-2 times (or better after each heavy snowfall), it would be a good idea to come to the dacha and trample the trees - compact the snow around them approximately within the radius of the crown. This, firstly, protects them from mice, and secondly, it slows down snowmelt in the spring - that is, the trees will wake up later, begin to grow and bloom later, and there is less risk that they will be subject to spring frosts. This is especially true for all cherries and apricots :)
Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and You can replant a bush in both spring and autumn, but this is quite troublesome. I agree with Lind_a that it’s better to spray one spray of blackcurrant and raspberry trees and bushes.
Discussion
About currants, I agree, layerings and cuttings are better. The bush can be removed when it becomes clear that the cuttings have taken root. By the way, my mother propagates everything from cuttings (well, almost everything :)). Cut branches 15-20 cm long, stick them at an angle into the prepared bed and cover plastic bottles, and cuts off the bottom of the bottles. The lid can be opened and closed (depending on the weather). It stays like this until the branches begin to grow. When it’s too much, it leaves it without lids. If you cut cuttings in the fall, leave them for the winter. It also propagates currants, roses, and honeysuckle.
And about raspberries, I can recommend an article from the magazine “Kalitka” #1 for 2012. I liked that everything I needed was there in one place and in order. The magazine is online, look for it.
We replanted. And not only currants, but also 8-year-old apple trees. You spill it generously the day before, dig it onto a bayonet and wrap the lump in burlap. The branches can be tied with rope. When planting, do not remove the burlap, it will rot on its own. In May or August-September.
Raspberries that bear fruit must be cut out annually and young shoots thinned out so that they do not thicken. This is done after fruiting. Feed in spring. When it’s hot, water it, it loves moisture (I mulch my plantation with sawdust, they retain moisture). In general, you need to take care, maybe your variety will turn out to be good when cared for.
shelter for the winter. Arrangement of the site. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Cottage and dacha plots: purchasing Autumn at the dacha: how to make an organic garden bed. In the end there were three quite raised beds How to prepare a young lawn for winter? Autumn sowing should be calculated like this...
Discussion
The development of the root system occurs up to +5 degrees. Everything should have settled down for you) there was enough time
12/05/2014 15:28:48, yellow shoesI would just shade the conifers from the spring sun, they know how to burn. But this can be done in the spring. Everything you mentioned does not need shelter IMHO. The only thing that needed to be done was to water abundantly until frost. Well, in the spring, as soon as you open the water, immediately spill everything.
See other discussions: Blackcurrant: pest control in spring, summer and autumn. Sprayer. Appliances for the garden. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits...
Discussion
The usual 5L Gardena, but I want to buy everything for 10L. It’s not particularly difficult to carry, I put it on the ground and don’t constantly hold it in my hands. I want a larger volume - since the standard dosages of chemicals are for 10 liters of water, and I have to fool around with mental calculations of proportions. Yes, and spraying only roses now takes 3 volumes, and if there are also bushes and trees - all 5.
spraying is not useful at all, so let your husband do it :))
Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, tree planting and whitewashing of trees in autumn and spring. Winter work in the garden is mandatory, despite the fact that fruit trees and shrubs are in a state of absolute dormancy.
Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Hi all. Need help for a novice gardener. Please advise what to wrap, cover, etc. trees from mice for the winter?
Discussion
Thanks to all! Today I painted and wrapped all the apple trees :) And cherries just in case.
There is no need to do anything with the bushes. I usually cover everything - both bushes and trees - with compost, 2-3-4 buckets per bush, both against frost and for fertilizer, but this is not necessary, you just need to use compost anyway.
Young trees are best protected nylon tights, I’ve been using it for many years - neither mice nor hares bite.
And whitewash, of course. Ideally - a trunk and large branches, almost to the height of growth.
Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Didn't find what you were looking for? Look at other discussions Section: Our garden (dacha, is it possible to mow the grass late in the fall).
Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: buying, landscaping, planting trees and People, I want to help. I always cut off branches from trees in the fall. Somehow it’s so traditional Fruit trees and shrubs: how many varieties of apple trees and currant bushes are needed on the site.
Discussion
As far as I know, you can ALWAYS prune, except during the period of active sap flow.
Personally, I prune in February when there is more snow. In high snow you can reach the upper branches.
PS. Why regularly prune non-fruit trees is also unclear to me.
There is a danger that the tree will freeze if there is frost and the wound does not have time to heal. Therefore, it is preferable to cut in the spring.
Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Please advise where to start? Is it possible to mow the grass under them? This year, the mown grass was placed directly under the trees, where it still lies.
Discussion
Good afternoon This is me, yesterday's wife in thought! Well, let's take on your clearing?!
About trees, briefly. It is necessary to prune, the crown needs light and air, otherwise you will have to treat the tree. The old rule is: "Prune so that the hat flies through the crown." Trim at above-zero temperatures, with the last eye looking outwards. Cut out everything that is diseased, dry and growing inside the crown or extending at a very sharp angle. The remaining subtleties depend on the initial formation of the tree: a trunk, a bush, a trellis or something else. The more you prune a tree, the more it will grow. If the tree is a standard, then leave 1 branch as the main axis and cut out the competition. Trim the remaining branches to 20-50 cm, depending on the crown. After pruning, it should have pyramidal shape, in this case all branches, including the lower ones, will receive enough sun. Take a photo - details will follow!
In the fall, it’s a good idea to cover the trunk with some kind of... Like a resin against Operophtera brumata, which crawl into the crown in the fall to lay eggs, but it’s too late to rush about, we’ll discuss it in the fall. Whiten the trunks also in the fall, to prevent cracking of the trunks in the cold under the intense spring sun.
Remove the grass, it attracts mice like a magnet. Grass on compost heap. Plant nasturtium (enriches the soil with nitrogen) or marigolds (against nematodes), they are decorative and suppress the growth of weeds. Feed with compost. Do you have a compost heap? If you don’t want to mess around and the trees are old, then you can trunk circle"hammer" and just mow the grass around. My old trees grow so beautifully, around the young ones I, accordingly, perform the above-mentioned “dances with tambourines.”
So sharpen your pitchforks and scissors!
Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables. In my yard there are 2 dwarf roses in plastic flowerpots, actively blooming. What to do with them in autumn and winter? bring it into the house? garage? basement...
Discussion
If in the basement stable temperature, about 0, then I would put them there. Trim the shoots a little and put them directly in flowerpots in the basement. They don't need light in winter.
In addition, this method is good if you are next year Do you plan to leave them in flowerpots? You can pull it out early and start “driving it out” already at home in the light to get early flowering.
Option 1: drop off at open ground and cover well for the winter.
Option 2: wait until the leaves fall and at the first long frost, bring it to a place where the temperature in winter is not above zero. Light is then not necessary, since the roses have no leaves. Leave it in a pot outside - the soil in the pot will freeze; if you bring it in too early, the shoots will not have time to become woody for the winter, which is also bad. It will spend the winter in a warm place - it will begin to grow, stretch and acquire aphids. Well, take the pot back in the spring at zero temperatures, after cutting off the roses to the third bud so that they bush.
Discussion
Roundup. Spray on the leaves in dry weather (there should be at least 8 hours before rain). They turn yellow and wither. If anyone survives, spray again. They will turn yellow for ten days. Forever. You can cut down everything that is dry; if any shoots stick out unfinished, spray again. Immediately after spraying, do not touch the bush, do not break it - the drug will go down inside to the roots.
The drug does not spoil the earth, is not dangerous to animals, and you can plant in this place even tomorrow.
Thanks everyone for the answers! I'm not sure if I can use it, but I'll think about it further. I got a plot with a pond, and there were two more islands in the pond. All this was overgrown with birches, aspens and bushes still unknown to me. This summer the bushes have reached incredible sizes both in width and height. My entire pond with the islands and surrounding area turned into an impenetrable jungle measuring 3-4 acres. Moreover, most of the bushes grow directly from the water. For now I just trimmed all the bushes, leaving the height no more than a meter. But they obviously need to be thinned out, but there is neither the strength nor the money for this :(
Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries Please share your experience - who, how and when insulates roses for the winter. We usually cover it with spruce branches at the end of October-November.