What proportions are needed to prepare cinder blocks. What are sawdust concrete blocks and what are they used for? Homemade solutions for laying cinder blocks

Cinder block is one of the most popular materials for the construction of walls of one-story buildings. It is distinguished by its low cost and the possibility of producing it independently at home.

Cinder block - wall stone

This building material is intended for low-rise construction. There is an opinion that if you include “high” grade cement in the mix, then you can make a solid foundation for a bathhouse or house from homemade blocks. However, foundation blocks must withstand enormous loads, so the blocks should be purchased at the factory rather than made independently.

Cinder blocks are:

hollow;
full-bodied.

Due to sufficient strength characteristics, solid cinder blocks are used for cladding and construction of load-bearing walls, as well as partitions. At the same time, hollow products have good heat and sound insulation. Due to voids, raw materials are significantly saved, which means the cost of production is much lower.

Cinder blocks are also used as additional insulation when constructing frames.

How to mix a solution to create a cinder block?

The name of the building material “cinder block” speaks for itself. This means that the main component of the solution will be the slag obtained in the blast furnace, which should be sifted through a special sifter (sieve).

We will need:

7 parts of the main filler (slag will serve as this);
2 shares of gravel having fractions of 5-15 mm;
one and a half parts of cement (it is best to take grade M 400, 500);
about 3 parts water.

In addition to slag, other components can act as the main element: clay, expanded clay, sand, gravel, crushed stone, gypsum and many others. It should be noted that if you choose blast furnace slag as a filler, then other additives must not be used. If you want to get a colored cinder block, then you can add chalk or red bricks reduced to fine crumbs into the solution (they should be crushed).

In addition, during the production of cinder blocks, make sure that the solution does not spread.

Component name	Qty components	Density, kg/m3	Water absorption,%	Mrz, cycles not less	Compressive strength, kg/cm2
Cement, kg Sand, kg (m3) Crushed stone, kg (m3) Water, l (depending on the moisture content of the components)	500 900 (0,52) 900 (0,52) 100...200	2350	4	200	410
Cement, kg Screenings, kg (m3) Sand, kg (m3) Water, l	500 920 (0,54) 1150 (0,7) 100...200	2160	4,5	200	400
Cement, kg Sand, kg (m3) Water, l	600 1550 (0,9) 100...190	2200	5,3	200	436

Tip for obtaining durable blocks: you need to add a plasticizer to the solution (you can buy it at any hardware store). Then you will receive not only durable, but also frost-resistant and waterproof blocks.

When you are going to set up the process of creating cinder blocks yourself, you should understand that there is no universal solution recipe. Each master selects his own unique formula through trial and error. If you are a beginner, you can use the standard one.

Prices for plasticizer for concrete

plasticizer for concrete

Cinder block production methods

There are two ways to obtain such blocks on your site.

Using formwork, that is, a form made of lumber or steel sheets.
Based on the operation of a special machine.

Video - Making cinder blocks by hand

Video - Cinder block walking mobile machine

Video - Machine for making cinder blocks

Tools and materials for block production:

molds (wood or metal), or vibrating machine;
2,3,4 – pallet blanks. 5,6,7 – frame of the matrix from below (corner 25x25). 8 – bar for fastening hollow cores. 9 – emptiness. 10 – upper void plug. 11 – lower void plug
concrete mixer;
leveling spatula;
shovel for pouring mortar;
solution.

Prices for cement-sand mixture

cement-sand mixture

Instructions for making your own mold

The design of the mold has the following form: bottom and side walls. Between a pair of transverse boards or sheets of metal, you should secure the crossbars at the desired distance. Maintain a step that corresponds to the size of the required cinder block.

Since it will be difficult to remove the finished product from the mold, the design of the container should be collapsible. For production efficiency, make formwork designed to produce 4-6 cinder blocks.

To make a mold to create cinder blocks you will need:

iron sheets 3 mm thick;
5 mm iron strips (several pieces);
cylinders, 4 cm in diameter;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
chalk for marking.

Welding machine prices

welding machine

Stages of manufacturing a single split metal mold

Step 1. We mark the sheet according to the size of the blocks: we will need two longitudinal sides and two transverse ones. We cut out our plates with a grinder.

The width of the longitudinal plate is 210 mm, the length is 450 mm, the transverse plate is 210 by 220 mm.

Step 2. Wings 3.5 cm high should be welded to the bottom of the cinder block mold so that the mold does not move, and a handle to quickly release the poured solution from the mold.

Step 3. Notches are made along the contour of the transverse and longitudinal walls in order to hook the mold onto the longitudinally installed walls.

Step 4. Let's assemble our form.

Step 5. To create voids in the cinder block, we make hanging cylinders. They must be welded to a plate 3-4 mm thick, which should seem to penetrate the cylinders closer to the top. We make notches on the end walls of our container to hook them.

Video - Do-it-yourself mold for cinder blocks

Production of cinder blocks using a split mold

Forms have any dimensions. The standard dimensions of the structure are 90x190x188 mm; in private construction, other sizes can be used, for example, 40x20x20 cm. In order to save material, it is better to use forms with cells of 4-6 blocks and cylinders (squares) to create cavities.

A homemade metal form (detachable) looks like this.

Let's look at the step-by-step process of making cinder blocks.

Step 1. Mix the solution in a concrete mixer.

Step 2. Pour the mixture into our mold with a shovel. In this case the mixture is thick. You can also use a liquid solution.

Step 3. Be sure to ensure that the solution fills the container evenly. To do this, compact the filled solution. We control the filling of the form to the brim. Level the top layer using a spatula.

Step 4. If the solution is dry, then you should use a special lid, the holes in which will block the bayonets in the mold. This device will help compact our cinder block. This type of lid is not used for liquid solutions.

Step 5. We are moving our unit to an open area for further storage. After 30-40 minutes, remove the bottom, sides and top cover. To better remove the cinder block, we use a regular hammer to hammer down the top of the wall and a longitudinal strip with cylinders.

Step 6. It will take us at least a day to dry completely.

Production of cinder blocks using a vibrator machine

Step 1. We mix our solution, taking into account the proportions. Particular attention should be paid to the right amount of water, because the cinder blocks should not spread when you remove them from the mold.

Kneading

To find out the correct consistency of the mixture, do a small test. Squeeze the solution in your hand: if it connects in it and does not spread when it falls to the ground, it is a good and correct solution.

Step 2. We fill our form with a solution, with a slide.

Step 3 . We turn on the machine for 2-4 seconds, after which the loaded composition will be compacted. We level the mixture with our hands so that the iron pins (cylinders) are visible.

Step 4. If there is not enough mixture in the form, it needs to be replenished, insert the clamp and turn on the vibrator again. The completion of formation is indicated by the settling of the clamp on the stops.

Step 5 . Our vibration form should be turned on again for 6-10 s.

Step 6 . Close the top with a lid with holes for the cylinders. And we do another tamping by raising and lowering the lid 4-5 times.

Step 7 . Then, without turning off the machine, the uniform is removed - just take the machine to you.

Using a vibrating machine, you can produce up to 500 cinder blocks per shift.

Step 8 . We dry the blocks for 5-10 days. Complete hardening of the resulting building materials will take place after a month, while the humidity should be high and the air warm.

Step 9. After a day, the blocks can be moved to storage locations (they will not be broken), but they can only be placed together after a week. And if you do add a plasticizer to the solution, then after 6-8 hours they can be moved and stored.

Of course, you should not purchase a vibrating machine for a single production, but special attention should be paid to compaction when creating cinder blocks (the quality of the product depends on this process). In this case, you can use a regular vibratory grinder, on which you just need to place our mold with the mixture.

Video - Production of cinder blocks using a vibrator machine

Features of storing cinder blocks

The resulting products are stored in pyramidal stacks, one hundred pieces at a time.

At the same time, they are stacked at small intervals. All you have to do is dry the material for a couple of months, then you can start building a bathhouse, an extension or a shed.

What are the features of cinder block production?

When producing cinder blocks, special attention should be paid to drying. For example, any dent or unevenness will ruin the building material. Another requirement for material quality is geometry. A large number of irregularities and defects is a prerequisite for increased costs for finishing the constructed walls. Therefore, in order for the product to turn out smooth, you should fill the mold or vibrating mold to the brim. Do not skimp on pouring the solution in heaps, because the vibration will shake out your mixture.

For better plasticity, when mixing the solution, do not forget to add plasticizer at the rate of 5 g per block. This will save the product from possible cracks, increase strength and frost resistance. To build a small bathhouse, you can mix the solution manually, but a concrete mixer will help speed up the process. You just need to buy or borrow a small unit with a capacity of 02-0.5 cubic meters. m.

Video - Homemade concrete mixer

Before preparing the mixture, the slag is moistened 5-6 hours before. This will allow better binding of cement grains and filler fractions. It should be noted that if you are filling wooden or metal forms without the possibility of vibrating, the mixture should be liquid.

Pros and cons of using cinder blocks

The advantages of cinder block include:

possibility of production at a summer cottage or in a private house;
drying of the material can take place both in an autoclave (industrial production) and in the open air (for self-production);
a building made of cinder blocks has minimal heat loss;
the material is inexpensive;
construction of the building is carried out quickly, given the large size of the blocks;
when mixing the solution, you can, by changing the proportions, give it certain qualities;
You can produce cinder blocks of any size.

Disadvantages of cinder block:

low frost resistance, but with the use of a special additive they can be increased;
there are doubts about environmental friendliness, especially for products made from blast furnace slag;
As for the liquid absorption characteristics, the material has strong moisture absorption and requires special protective coatings;
fragility (this material is clearly not suitable for the construction of high-rise buildings).

Blocks made with the addition of cement have the highest strength. The next place is occupied by lime blocks.
If small granules are replaced with part of the sifted sand, the strength of the products will increase slightly.
A combination of cement and lime (or clay) in a 3:1 ratio will allow you to save money, which will not affect the quality at all.
Before you start pouring the solution, the molds should be cleaned and wiped. This will prevent the resulting blocks from sticking to the bottom and walls. For such wiping, diesel fuel, used oil or similar products are used.
The density of the solution is a direct indicator of the rate of hardening. The thicker it is, the faster the block can harden. The main quality characteristics of cinder blocks depend not only on the production technology, but also on the choice of solution. Below are various types of mixtures, the use of which demonstrates certain characteristics required of the material.

Video – Cinder block. Instructions for a beginner

Concrete when using sawdust as a filler on line of concretes closer to the classics than wood concrete.

It's all about the presence of sand in the composition of sawdust concrete.

No matter how similar in composition wood concrete and sawdust concrete are to each other - there is a difference, and sometimes it is significant.

We will not analyze the differences; we will consider in detail only the sawdust concrete itself.

There are types of sawdust concrete:

thermal insulation(average density from 400 to 800 kg/m3);
structural(average density from 800 to 1200 kg/m3).

Like any other concrete, sawdust concrete gains strength best in heat and humidity, since moisture does not evaporate quickly and goes into the formation of cement stone.

pros

The main advantages of sawdust concrete are:

Cheapness of the main components.
Ease of manufacture.
Durability of buildings.
Environmental friendliness.
Excellent thermal protection.
A manufacturing and application technique developed over decades of use.

Minuses

There is only one main drawback: not all sawdust will do for this material. If in the case of sugars from the chips were removed during storage, and according to the ratio of the volume of chips and the specific area of the chips, the decomposition of sugars did not greatly affect the cement, then in the case of sawdust concrete, the process of decomposition of sugars greatly affects the cement itself inside the block.

Manufacturing

In the process of producing sawdust concrete, it is important to take only the most suitable sawdust from those wood species that have sugar content is minimal. Optimal candidates for a second life of waste in sawdust concrete:

pine;
birch;
poplar.

Larch, despite its high density and strength characteristics is in the very last place, with the highest sugar content.

If spruce begins to gain strength two weeks after setting, then the end occurs somewhere on the fortieth day after production. But for larch this period is much longer: from thirty days at the beginning of strength gain to one hundred and forty at the end.

All works on monolithic sawdust concrete needs to be done in the spring so that everything will be finished by the fall. Due to the released sugars, it is better to condition sawdust in the fresh air, including watering the sawdust with water in order to wash away the remaining sugar decay.

A couple of washes with water will already provide the sawdust with an acceptable condition for use in the process of manufacturing sawdust concrete. Sawdust structure when stored in bulk, it will prevent the processes of rotting and burning from starting. Since they are not compressed, there is no need to be afraid of moisture.

Compound

Any brand of sawdust concrete contains:

cement;
sand;
slaked lime;
sawdust.

Differences in proportions observed only in the ratio of mixture components.

Each brand of sawdust concrete has its own proportions.

Components

We prepare sawdust concrete with our own hands. We display the proportions of components per 1m3 of the finished mixture in the form of a table:

As we see, with an increase in the amount of cement, the purpose of the blocks is more limited to the construction of non-residential buildings. This is explained by the change in the coefficient thermal conductivity of blocks, nullifying all efforts to heat the building. When using M10 brand blocks, the coefficient is 0.21, which is a very good indicator.

For grade M15, this coefficient is 0.24, which is caused only by a slight increase in strength requirements, respectively, and an increase in the amount of cement to obtain a strong block for the construction of a two-story house. For the M25 block, the coefficient is already almost 0.39, which is two times higher than for the M10 block. This means that the M25 block is twice as cold, but from it you can build large rooms.

The golden mean for sawdust concrete is one-story buildings.

Proportions

The proportions of sawdust concrete are shown in the table:

In volume units this means the following. When producing sawdust concrete:

M10 grades:
- cement 0.5 buckets;
- a little more than 1 bucket of sand (a bucket with a slide);
- sawdust a little more than 3 buckets.
M15 grades:
- a little more than 0.5 buckets of cement;
- sand 1.5 buckets;
- almost 4 buckets of sawdust.
M25 grades:
- cement 0.5 buckets;
- sand a little less than 1.5 buckets;
- sawdust 3 buckets with two slides.

It is important to follow exactly this recipe, because it was worked for decades, much earlier than wood concrete. The lack of progression in quantity and proportions should not be confusing. In each individual case, the components work differently.

Slaked lime as a component is used both as a means of desugaring sawdust, and bypassing this stage, by introducing the required amount of fluff into the mixture.

Preparing the mixture

Surprisingly, the easiest way to prepare the mixture is by hand. When preparing sawdust concrete with your own hands, ordinary concrete mixers will not work. Due to the lightness of some components, they risk remaining on the walls of the concrete mixer, or simply floating on top of the water. Any loading order.

You can first:

dilute cement in water;
add sand, sawdust and lime.

Another variant:

mix sawdust with lime;
add sand and cement;
dilute with water.

No matter what other people say, it makes absolutely no difference which option you choose.

As a result of the work, a homogeneous mixture is formed, the structure of which contains sand and cement. It is these two components that form cement stone. The lime neutralizes the sugars as they are released from the sawdust, and the sawdust itself is a filler. Classic lightweight concrete.

Machine mixing of sawdust concrete functionally possible if a forced-type mixer is available, as in the production of polystyrene concrete. But even in that case, the order does not matter, since if the sawdust has already been treated with lime during preparation, then it is no longer afraid of water.

Sawdust concrete based on gypsum binder

It is worth mentioning a little about a mixture where building gypsum is used instead of cement.

And let people not be afraid of the speed of setting of gypsum in combination with water, since these issues have already found a popular solution.

The problem is solved by adding an ordinary detergent to the water, which, as is known, releases water in doses to gypsum molecules that are in an unhydrated state.

Explanation: building gypsum in the form in which it is sold in stores has ability to connect with water, forming a formula already with it, and which is already a solid formation that is not particularly afraid of water.

There is still no end to the debate as to whether it is possible to build external walls from gypsum-based blocks.

According to some data, with proven technology (on hand) and when protecting the blocks from atmospheric influences, it is quite possible to use these blocks for building external walls. Internal ones can definitely be built.

The only question is the price for the binder, but in terms of the volume of sawdust and the setting force, we can say that the costs will be slightly higher, and the rate of strength gain will be four to five times higher.

About the size of sawdust

The size of sawdust does not matter if there is enough binder.

As a rule, sawdust is taken from a sawmill, and the differences in sawdust from a band sawmill and a disk sawmill are so insignificant that they are not taken into account at all.

The chips from rounding and calibrating machines will no longer work.

A homogeneous mixture will not work if in one volume there are fractions that differ from each other in volume by several hundred times.

Among the features of the process - it's important to knead so that when you pick up a lump of mixture and squeeze it with your hands, water does not flow from it in a stream. Although everyone’s strength is different, and you need to approach this issue logically. And after the lump has formed - so that it does not crumble in your hands.

Also for these nuances, lime is present in the solution. She provides mutual adhesion both between sand and cement, and between them and sawdust.

Manual mixing of sawdust concrete using a shovel:

Application of sawdust concrete

Truly a folk building material, as it is the most affordable of materials according to the complexity of production. Perhaps people notice a wave-like interest in such materials. If previously sawdust concrete was a good option for the whole country, then with the wave of Western marketing, people, in pursuit of fashion, moved away from a reasonable framework of choice.

Only now many have begun to pay attention to environmental friendliness and practicality building materials, and not something that was designed for completely different climatic conditions. The following are successfully built from sawdust concrete:

houses with up to three storeys;
garages;
sheds;
outbuildings;
technological buildings.

Like any moderately hygroscopic material, sawdust concrete needs exterior finishing, just like aerated concrete and foam concrete.

If we consider sawdust concrete in comparison with autoclaved aerated concrete, then the water absorption of the latter is generally 200% of the mass of the block. Therefore, there is no need to be embarrassed by the presence of sawdust in the blocks. A popular insulation material that was produced in Germany at the beginning of the last century - ecowool - is generally made from what is collected from landfills.

Therefore, it is still worth figuring out what is more environmentally friendly - sawdust concrete with natural ingredients, or ecowool with a hypercontent of bromine salts.

As you already know, today this building material is becoming increasingly popular due to its affordable price, excellent thermal characteristics, excellent sound insulation and sufficient strength for the construction of walls of a wide variety of buildings - from bathhouses and garages to residential buildings.

When this building material first appeared, blast furnace slag was used as a filler for its production, which gave the name to this type of wall stones.

But over time, other materials appeared, from which cinder blocks are also made today - sand and gravel mixture, perlite, expanded clay, ash, broken brick, as well as locally produced waste suitable for physical characteristics.

Cinder blocks are produced in varying degrees of hollowness - from solid stones to blocks with 40% hollowness.

The dimensions and weight of cinder blocks are presented in the table below:

Block dimensions, mm	Composition of cinder block filler	Emptiness, %	Weight, kg	Note
	Sand-cement			Open bottom
	Sand-cement			With closed bottom
	Expanded clay concrete			With closed bottom
	Sand-cement			With closed bottom
	Sand-cement			With closed bottom
	Sand-cement			Double-hollow
	Expanded clay concrete			Double-hollow
	Sand-cement			Full-bodied
	Expanded clay concrete			Full-bodied

As can be seen from the table, cinder blocks are available with an open and closed bottom. Blocks for partitions are half as wide.

Disadvantages of cinder blocks

Despite the many advantages of this material, it also has its disadvantages. These include:

increased moisture absorption;
low frost resistance;
increased requirements for exterior finishing;
higher fragility than brick.

But these disadvantages are easily outweighed by the more numerous advantages, as well as by the fact that the production of cinder blocks can be established directly at the construction site. At the same time, even a person without experience can cope with their production.

Let's look at the process of producing cinder blocks on our own in more detail.

Mixture proportions for cinder blocks

To make blocks, slag is used in different sizes and includes several different fractions. This makes it possible to give the blocks higher strength and improve thermal performance.

Before starting to prepare the mixture, sifted slag of the required size is moistened with water to improve its adhesion to cement.

Proportions for making cinder blocks:

1.5-2 parts water;
3 parts of cement M400;
2 parts sand;
7 parts slag.

In addition to slag, brick waste, crushed stone, ash, gravel, and gypsum can be added to the mixture.

To save cement, you can replace a quarter of the binder with lime. This will not degrade the quality of the finished blocks.

Mold for making cinder blocks

The simplest way to produce blocks is to pour the mixture into a special mold made of boards, into which wooden cylinders or rectangles are inserted to form voids in the blocks of the required size.

You can see what the production of blocks using such a simple form looks like in the video below (click on the triangle to play):

With this method, hardening occurs at ambient temperature without the use of additional heating. This process is quite lengthy and requires about a month to completely harden.

Cinder block machine

Much better quality blocks are obtained by using a special brick press with a mold for pouring slag concrete mixture. Due to vibration, the mixture is well compacted and becomes more homogeneous.

You can purchase such a machine or make it yourself.
Below you can watch a video of using a factory-made cinder block machine:

And here is a homemade machine for making blocks at home:

Image of a machine with a vibration mold for one block (vibration is created by a motor from a tabletop emery with an eccentric mounted on the shaft):

As you can see, making cinder blocks with your own hands is a completely affordable process for anyone who decides to save on buying ready-made wall stones and make them themselves. You can also put the production of blocks on stream and open your own business selling this popular building material.

How to make a mortar composition for laying cinder blocks worries all novice builders who have decided to lay out their own house. There are several types of such composition.

Types of masonry compositions

You can use several solution options:

Prepared with your own hands.
Purchased dry powder, for the production of which you will need a certain amount of water.

The price of ready-made mixtures can be several times more expensive than a self-prepared solution.

What properties should a mortar for laying cinder blocks have?

The proportions of the solution are different, it all depends on different cases. For this reason, the following plays an important role:

Viscosity of the composition.
Durability after drying.
Spreadability when applied to the surface.

Also worth considering:

The composition of the solution must be free of lumps.
This will make it possible to lay the material evenly.
Special additives are very popular in the preparation of the solution.
They allow you to increase the strength and reliability of the composition.

The type of masonry material determines not only the consumption of the product, but also its ingredients.

Types of cinder block masonry and material characteristics

The material is very popular and there are reasons for this:

This is due to the large size of the material.
They are 390x188x190 mm.
The material has excellent characteristics and properties.
Sound and heat insulation properties are high.
The strength of a material is determined by its structure.
Thanks to all the available ingredients, you can make a cinder block yourself.
Only for such a process there are special instructions.

The amount of raw materials should be checked with professionals in this field.

The consumption of mortar per cubic meter of cinder block masonry depends on the type of masonry. The most economical is masonry of 0.5-1 blocks. The thickness of the mortar is 1-2 cm. It is not recommended to make it thicker, since then the building will not have high strength.

Initially, the amount of material required for masonry is calculated.
Then, based on the data obtained, the solution consumption for laying the cinder block is obtained.
It also depends on the thickness of the applied product.
To make the solution more economical, it is not recommended to apply it more than 10 mm.

Homemade solutions for laying cinder blocks

There are standard batches of mortar for laying cinder blocks, which are most often used in construction.

More details:

They are characterized by the preparation of ordinary concrete mortar.
It consists of concrete, sand and water.
The sand-cement mixture is made up of 3-4 buckets of sand per 1 bucket of cement.

How to make mortar for laying cinder blocks? Below is an example of another fairly simple and standard mortar for laying material:

Sand (purified or not, river or quarry).
Portland cement (grade not lower than M 400 or M 500).
Water.
Red clay.
Plasticizers that regulate the density of the solution.

The ratio of sand and cement is 3 to 1.
The container for determining the proportions of sand and cement must be the same. For example, a bucket or basin.
It is also worth considering the size of the concrete mixer in which the mixture is mixed.
It will be impossible to add or remove already mixed ingredients.
Mortar for laying cinder blocks, proportions of this type imply the use of 3 buckets of sand and 1 bucket of cement and 1/3 bucket of red clay.

Stages of work:

Sand, cement and clay are poured into the prepared container.
All of them are mixed using a special wooden shovel or a simple stick.
After the concrete mixer begins to rotate, water is gradually added using a bucket of the same volume.
Its quantity depends on what type of masonry is chosen.
The total weight of the future structure is also taken into account. The solution must withstand all loads and securely secure the material.

You need to pour water into the dry mixture in buckets. Do not pour several buckets at once. This may result in a liquid solution that cannot be used for masonry. It will spread.

Solutions for laying cinder block:

M100.
M150.
M300.

All these solutions can be made independently:

How to prepare a mortar for laying cinder block M 25? For this, a ready-made cement solution of grade 300 is used, to which one part of sand is added.
Preparation of M 75 solution is also a fairly simple process. To do this, you need a brand of ready-made mortar M 400. One part of cement should be mixed with 0.5 parts of lime powder and 4 parts of sand.
Mortar grade M 100 is prepared from grade 400 cement, with which 4 parts sand and 0/3 lime are mixed.
Mortar grade M 150 is prepared using cement M 400. Sand is mixed in a ratio of 2.5/0.1 sand/lime and 1 part cement.

The solution consumption per 1 m3 is at least 30-40 kg.

This consumption is relevant only for masonry, which is carried out at temperatures from +5 to +25 degrees.
Also, the thickness of the walls ranges from 40 to 50 cm.

Ready-made solutions for laying cinder blocks

Before you start making a mortar for laying cinder blocks, it is worth evaluating the advantages of ready-made mortars.