There are so many things that live in our kitchens that we don’t pay attention to most things, we just take them and use them. But in vain, because good kitchen knives are real helpers in the kitchen, which will not only be convenient to use, but also get a lot of pleasure from cooking. In any kitchen, wherever you go, there will be at least 2-3 utility knives. For most housewives, this quantity is enough and they do not bother looking for other types of knives with narrower functionality. But we eat a variety of foods; is it really possible to cut frozen meat and soft cheese with the same knife? Of course not. The variety of kitchen knives depends on the products for which they are intended.

In order to not just know, but understand the difference between one knife or another, you need to clearly understand which ones components it consists of and what materials it is made from. Knives differ from each other in size, blade shape and cutting edge. Of course, each knife is created for a specific purpose and has its own unique purpose, but this does not mean that each kitchen should have its own exhibition of sharp and cutting objects. Some knives are quite versatile and can be used to cut several groups of products at once.

So, let's look at the constituent elements. The most important thing in every knife is, naturally, the blade. The quality of the blade depends on the material used in its manufacture, the width, the geometric shape and the sharpening. We’ll talk about the materials used to make knives a little lower, so let’s move straight to the width. The larger the knife, the correspondingly heavier and wider the blade. When you look at any kitchen knife, you will notice that most blades have variable widths. The blade is wider at the base and gradually narrows as it approaches the tip. Likewise, the blade tapers towards the cutting edge. The sharpening angle on kitchen knives should be 10-35°, and the sharpening can be double or single-sided, but in any case, the blade of a sharply sharpened knife should be so thin that it can be said to be almost invisible.

The next component of a knife is the tip of the blade or point. Its shape directly depends on the function of the knife. The point comes in raised, centered, and down styles, and chances are you've used each of them. A knife with a raised point has a cutting edge that meets the perfectly straight top of the blade. The most common kitchen knife most often has a centered edge, where the top and bottom of the blade meet exactly in the middle. A drop-point knife has a sharply rounded top of the blade and a straight cutting edge.

The trailing edge of the blade is called the butt. Most often, the butt is an even straight line, however, if the knife’s tip is raised high or, on the contrary, lowered, then the back edge of the blade can rise or fall. The reverse side of the butt is the cutting edge, i.e. the sharp part of the blade with which we cut food. There are several basic cutting edge shapes: smooth, serrated and wavy. Knives with a smooth cutting edge are the most widely used, because they can efficiently cut almost anything. Serrated edge knives are used for cutting foods that are soft on the inside but have a tough crust, such as bread. When using a knife with a serrated edge, first saw through the crust and cut the rest in the same way as with a regular knife, in this case the bread will not be deformed. Knives with a wave-shaped cutting edge have alternating grooves on each side of the blade, allowing you to easily separate the product from the knife. These knives are convenient for cutting cakes, cheeses and ham.

Any quality knife should have the following parts - a neck and a safety guard. The neck is a small thickening between the blade and the handle of the knife; it acts as a support for the index finger, and also improves the balancing of the knife; however, with further sharpening, this balancing will be disrupted, because the blade will become lighter each time. The fuse is a kind of stop that can be located on the blade itself or on the handle. Its role is to protect the hand from slipping onto the blade while working. The handle itself is no less important. Most often it is made of plastic or wood. A high-quality knife should have a handle without chips, cracks or uneven seams. These are the main components of a knife that are important to pay attention to when purchasing.

Now you need to figure out what materials kitchen knives are made from, and which one is better to choose, because they all vary depending on the safety of the cutting edge and ease of sharpening, flexibility and rust resistance. Manufacturers most often make knives from carbon steel, of stainless steel, high carbon stainless steel, laminated steel, titanium and ceramic. Carbon steel is an alloy of iron and carbon, usually not very expensive, easy to sharpen and holds an edge well. However, knives made of carbon steel require especially careful care, because... They can darken, give off flavors and even rust, so they cannot be kept in water for a long time, and after use they must be wiped dry immediately.

Kitchen knives made of stainless steel, compared to knives made of carbon steel, do not hold an edge well, but besides this, they do not require special care. However, the result of weekly sharpening is the thinning of the steel, which means that such a knife will not last as long as we would like. The ideal compromise between stainless steel and carbon steel is a knife made from high-carbon stainless steel. This alloy incorporates all the best from carbon and stainless steel, which means that knives made from this material hold an edge perfectly, do not rust and are very durable.

Do you want to buy premium kitchen knives? Most often they are made of multilayer steel. The name speaks for itself: to achieve the best results, steel is forged in layers. The result is an almost perfect blade that holds an edge perfectly and does not break. If you want something very rare, choose a knife made of titanium. You will get a lightweight, corrosion-resistant, but very brittle and expensive knife. If you don't like the aftertaste left by steel knives, try ceramic ones. Of course, it will not be possible to sharpen it like a carbon knife, but the sharpening will last for a very long time, however, the big disadvantage of such a knife is its fragility. Now, knowing the shapes and materials of knives, it is time to find out their types.

Utility kitchen knife

The most popular knife, as its name suggests. It does not have any characteristic features; it is usually a knife with a not very wide blade, up to 15 cm in length. A universal knife is used for cleaning and cutting vegetables and fruits, sausages, cheeses, herbs and even meat. The largest amount of kitchen work falls on his shoulders.

bread knife

This knife has a very long and strong blade, which does not taper towards the tip, but sharply rounds towards the cutting surface. The bread knife is equipped with a saw-tooth cutting edge, which easily cuts through the crust and does not deform the pulp. The same knife is often used to cut pineapples, watermelons and melons.

Tomato knife

Tomatoes received a special honor; a knife with a long, narrow, wavy blade was invented especially for them. It easily cuts through the thin skin of tomatoes and does not crush the soft center. The tip of such a knife bifurcates and forms a kind of fork; this device is made to make it convenient to pick up and transfer already chopped tomatoes to a plate. This knife is convenient for cutting fruits and vegetables with delicate pulp.

Slicing knife

You will need such a knife if you want to cut ham, meat or fish into thin slices. This is a long, narrow knife with a smooth cutting edge, however, the blade may have indentations. This blade allows you to make thin cuts in one motion, while the pieces do not wrinkle or stick to the knife, thanks to the air pockets that form on the blade.

Knife for cutting meat from bones

This knife is unlikely to be confused with another; it has a blade that widens towards the base and sharply tapers towards the tip. It has a straight spine and a strongly curved cutting edge. The narrow blade with a thin tip allows this knife to penetrate into the most difficult to reach places. This knife is quite versatile when cutting meat; it is used not only for cutting meat, but also for processing poultry and fish.

fillet knife

The narrowest and longest of the entire set. Fans of sushi and rolls will be delighted with it, because it is designed for cutting meat and fish into thin pieces. A fillet knife has a very flexible blade, which allows you to make a cut in one motion.

Meat knife

A rare guest in our kitchens. This is a curved knife with an unusual blade that widens towards the tip. It is this shape that allows you to correctly distribute effort and easily cut tough meat.

Chef's knife

This knife has a heavy handle and a wide blade, reaching a length of up to 30 cm. Thanks to the centered tip, this knife can do anything, from cutting meat to slicing herbs.

Japanese chef's knife

The Japanese chef's knife has a very wide blade, and the spine is rounded to a straight cutting edge. Most often, the center of gravity of such a knife is shifted to the tip, which allows you to apply less strength when cutting. Convenient for cutting crabs, mushrooms, ginger and fish for sushi.

Vegetable knife

This knife has a short blade of 7-10 cm, with a smooth cutting edge, a sharp tip and a large handle. Used for cleaning and cutting vegetables and fruits.

Vegetable peeler

This knife can be seen in almost any kitchen. His striking feature- two blades facing each other. A vegetable knife is used for peeling potatoes, apples and many other vegetables and fruits.

Cheese knife

This is a knife with a thin straight blade and a serrated cutting edge, often with a forked tip and a raised handle. You can often see holes and indentations in the blade of a cheese knife, made in order to prevent pieces of cheese from sticking to the knife.

Decorator knife

The blade of this knife has serrations that, when cutting vegetables or fruits such as cucumbers or carrots, give them wavy shape.

Chopping knife

This is a knife with a very wide symmetrical semicircular blade and two handles on the edges. Very convenient for chopping greens.

Kitchen hatchet

A knife with a thick blade up to 18 cm wide is needed for cutting very large pieces of meat and joints.

Kitchen scissors

Surely everyone has scissors in their kitchen. Kitchen scissors are very similar to regular scissors, the difference is that they have stronger handles and sharper blades. With these scissors you can easily cut greens or cut off the fins of fish. Kitchen scissors often have a hole with teeth between the handles; it is used for chopping nuts.

Of course, there are a great variety of kitchen knives, but we don’t have a fancy restaurant at home, so it’s not necessary to buy everything at once. Cutting ingredients for almost any dish can be done with several basic knives that are found in every home. Of course, it is possible to separate knives depending on the properties of certain products, however, we can say with complete confidence that you will not use them often. Choose those knives that are convenient for you and cook with pleasure!

Knives Mitin Sergiush

What kind of knife is needed and for what?

What kind of knife is needed and for what?

A knife is a tool designed exclusively for cutting. Therefore, the question in the title may seem meaningless; But this is only at first glance. Yes, there are no words, if we want to cut something, we can do it with any knife. But the success, convenience, and safety of working with a knife, and, on top of everything else, the durability of the knife itself depend on how the size and shape of the knife are adapted to the quality of the material being cut and the conditions of the operation itself. You can cut bread with a double-edged dagger, but it is much more convenient to do this with an ordinary kitchen knife. With a small thin knife for peeling potatoes you can skin and gut an elk or cut branches to build a hut in the field - another thing is how long it will take, how much effort it will require and how often during such work you will have to sharpen the knife. It’s one thing to cut a soft or rough material, such as cardboard; it’s quite another to cut something harder, but not abrasive, such as wood. It’s one thing to have a knife designed for combat, and another thing to use it for rescue work. Even in the kitchen we use at least two or three different knives. In other words, function dictates form.

To make the choice easier, to understand why and what kind of knife should be used, I propose dividing knives into groups - according to their purpose and, therefore, according to their properties. Let's start, of course, with a few very significant notes about the features of each type of knife.

Folding or fixed blade? First a knife appeared, no doubt with a fixed blade. I often hear that the folding knife was invented in the past century or a little earlier; and also, they say, folding knives are certainly small and are needed only for cutting paper or sharpening pencils. Both of these opinions are incorrect. Folding knives, with lockable blades, were known in the countries of Southern Europe (for example, in Italy or Spain) already in early Middle Ages. Most often they were used as a tool, but not only... The law prohibited commoners (not nobles) from carrying weapons, that is, swords and daggers. What did those who wanted to have and carry weapons come up with to protect themselves from robbers, and sometimes, probably, from nobles? They decided to lengthen the traditional folding knife, which the Spaniards call navaja(reads: navaja). Its length - when folded - was brought to the elbow (about 0.5 m), which, admittedly, aroused respect. And the open navaja was slightly inferior in length to the sword of a robber or a nobleman, which, I note by the way, sometimes it was not so difficult to confuse them. Lock - a medieval prototype of a type of locking device that is widespread today back lock - held the blade bare firmly and reliably. The idea of ​​such a “little innocent penknife” was liked by everyone, including the robbers. Obviously, this is what made Navaja extremely popular in Spain. Exact copies of this kind of knives, along with high-tech modern ones, are still produced, and collectors willingly buy them. Today's robbers prefer, of course, more modern weapons. Apparently, this was one of the reasons that the size of the Navaja returned to its origins, although very large specimens can still be found (ill. 21).

Politicians who write laws do not assimilate historical experience well. Nowadays, in many European countries and a number of US states, the law prohibits the concealed carrying of a knife with a fixed blade, no matter what its size. But if someone gets stuck, he will certainly find a way out. You just need to buy one of the knives that are commonly called in English mega folders, or giant folding knives (Fig. 22).

It is clear that secretly carrying a folding knife in urban conditions is incomparably more convenient and reliable. This is the most significant advantage of a knife, which decisively influences the choice, at least on my own. After all, the knife you wear constantly, and you use they rarely. Modern folding knives can be easily opened with one hand, so in terms of the speed and ease of preparing them for work, they differ little from knives with a fixed blade. Most everyday operations that require the use of a knife can be performed in urban environments with a folding knife. In addition, he has one more undoubted advantage: those around him do not look at him so askance. After all, many people, not only in Poland, consider a knife to be a prohibited item, bad, indicating unhealthy inclinations of its owner. If you, intentionally or accidentally, let it slip that you are carrying a knife, it can cause a much bigger commotion than if you said that you are carrying a firearm. Such a reaction, at first glance senseless, is to a certain extent justified. After all, the acquisition and carrying of firearms requires permission from the relevant authorities, and it is believed that the one who carries such a weapon has permission (otherwise he would not make this fact public). And if so, then it is known who he is and why he carries weapons, but more importantly, the authorities know about it. Anyone can buy and carry a knife; there is no need for permission from the authorities, and there is no need to tell anyone about it. Regardless of whether this kind of approach is correct and whether the belief that when issuing a firearms permit, the authorities always know what they are doing is true, I believe that the hostility of part of society towards knives constantly being in people's pockets is justified. Alas, we live in a society, not on a desert island.

A folding knife also causes a similar reaction, although not as sharp as a knife with a fixed blade of the same size. I myself have been convinced of this more than once, when exclusively for peaceful purposes - say, to open cardboard box, - resorted to the services of either a folding knife or a knife with a fixed blade. Although they are almost the same size and very similar to each other, others react to them differently. A penknife can provoke an innocent joke, something like: “Oh, but you are a dangerous person!” If you pull out a knife with a fixed blade, and your peaceful intentions are completely obvious, a stranger, even your casual acquaintance, will most likely simply remain silent; but it happens that he will begin to look around, as if wondering whether to give him a break. I'm exaggerating, of course, but only a little (illustrations 23 and 24).

The weak point of a folding knife is the movable connection between the blade and the handle. Excessive force can break the knife, and most likely it will break in this place. This probably won’t cause you any particular trouble, but it could be different. Folding knives without locking, in my opinion, are only suitable for light work - say, for sharpening pencils or cutting envelopes. Folding knives with a locking blade have incomparably greater capabilities, but the limits of these capabilities are determined by the reliability of the locking mechanism. When talking about reliability, I mean not so much the flawless operation of the blocking device (although that too), but rather its stability. According to my observations, even if none of the components of the locking device are damaged, many things can confuse it and lead to spontaneous folding of the knife. The operation of the locking mechanism may also be disrupted if the knife is dirty. When, for example, it is all in the ground or covered with dried blood, hair and fat from a gutted animal that you shot while hunting, the lock will not work, and, therefore, the folding knife will be useless - at least until you clean it out. I will return to the question of the reliability of the locking mechanisms of folding knives and methods for checking them.

Practical advice: in urban environments it is better to use a folding knife; When going on a trip to the outback, it is preferable, however, to take a knife with a fixed blade with you.

The main advantage of a knife with a fixed blade compared to a folding one is its significantly more stable and durable design, and therefore greater safety for the user. If the knife is made well and the core, which is a continuation of the blade, passes through the entire handle, to its very end, there is no reason to fear that the blade will “fold” and cover the fingers of its owner, which are not capable of regrowth. A knife with a fixed blade has only one threat: you can break it. How much strength you need to have for this depends on the size and design of the knife, as well as on the materials from which it is made. If the end of the core is visible protruding from the handle - and we know the thickness of the blade, and we have an idea of ​​​​the endurance of the steel - we already know what we are dealing with. If we want to know more, we can contact the manufacturer or delve into trustworthy specialist literature. For example, a Swedish company F?llkniven published on its website on the Internet the results of laboratory tests of the knives it produces for strength. Knife Model A1 broke under a load on the handle of 242 kg. In practice, this means that three adults can hang on the handle of a knife driven into something hard to a depth of 5 cm, that is, the force will be directed across the plane of the blade, or along the line of least resistance. So try to break it with your hands, unless, of course, you are a superman!

Of course, this example is out of the ordinary. I never tire of repeating that a knife is a tool intended exclusively for cutting, and should not be turned into a crowbar or pry bar. I argued a lot on this topic with the owner and head of the company F?llkniven Peter Hjortberger, emphasizing that the stronger the knife, the thicker it is, and therefore heavier. But increasing the thickness of the blade also reduces its ability to cut. Peter objected: “What is the point of repeating that a knife is not a crowbar, when it is sometimes turned into a crowbar anyway. And much more often than we think. My knives have no right to fail even if they are used incorrectly, or even barbarously.” There is some truth in this, of course, but the merits of a knife are ultimately determined by its suitability for what we do with it. However, naturally, it’s not a sin for us to think. I have only broken one knife in my entire life when I used it specifically as a pry bar: I had to pick up something and lift it up. I had little doubt that the knife would not hold up, but I had no choice. It happened during one rescue mission and I did what I had to do. Well, as for the broken knife... what a knife - I just bought myself a new one. It really wasn't as expensive as F?llkniven A1, This one would have survived for sure. So there is something to think about.

Another argument in favor of a knife with a fixed blade. The handles of most folding knives, even older models, do not have a guard; the shape of the handle and its unsmooth, rough sides are all that can prevent the hand from slipping onto the blade. The shape of the handle cannot be arbitrary - after all, when the knife is folded, the blade is hidden in it. The handle of a knife with a fixed blade does not have such a design limitation, and therefore its shape is usually more convenient (ergonomic), and it is more pleasant and safer to hold such a handle in your hand. Usually does not mean always: for me, let’s say, folding knives remain unsurpassed champions in this kind of competition Benchmade AFCK And Spyderco Tim Wegner the handles of which are better than those of many fixed blade knives (Fig. 25 and 26). But these are rather exceptions; In general, knives with fixed blades have handles that are more comfortable and safer than folding knives of the same size.

Of course, no folding knife can cut a coconut. I split it like this: I take the nut in one hand, a decent knife with a fixed blade in the other, and with the butt of the blade I crack it across the nut! As a rule, the nut is split into two equal halves. I don’t think this could be done with a folding knife; it’s better not to even try. Of course, this is a joke, but at the same time it is an illustration of practical advice: know the limits of your knife’s capabilities and do not cross them, then you have nothing to fear from your knife - it will serve you for a long time and properly.

Big or small? The knife is used for cutting, and therefore its main element is the blade. But it cannot exist without a blade. The longer the blade, the larger the blade we have and the higher the cutting qualities of the knife. A large knife has one more advantage - it is easier to abuse it in case of emergency (say, use it instead of an ax). A larger knife can - although it shouldn't - serve as a reliable weapon if the need arises. Is not it? Yes, yes, but also not without some limitations and side consequences.

A large knife is naturally heavier, which can make a significant difference, for example, when hiking over very rough terrain or when climbing a mountain. A large knife can be attached to a belt or some piece of equipment, but this is not as convenient. A larger knife, as a rule, is also more expensive, but it does not necessarily cut better. A longer blade is usually thicker, and this can negate all its advantages when you need the knife to perform the most ordinary work.

In Internet discussions you can come across the following opinion: in the wilderness, a large knife will be useful to me if I stumble upon a bear. You shouldn’t entertain any illusions: you can’t defeat an adult bear, even if you have a sword in your hands. The best thing to do is just not to bully him and stay away from him. In our climatic zone cutting with a knife is an empty task, and no knife can handle dry pine 20–25 cm thick in any reasonable time. And since a knife won’t replace an ax anyway, why carry an extra weight - a big knife? When going on a long hike, it is best to take with you a small knife and a good-quality medium-sized axe.

Many people believe that in the city a knife may be needed for self-defense. But even if such a need arises, one does not fencing with a knife, so, theoretically speaking, the length of the blade here of great importance does not have. But a long blade can hinder you if they attack you from behind and start strangling you in a small confined space, for example in a gateway, on staircase or in an elevator car.

In the city, the wary reaction of others who suddenly discover that some passer-by is hiding a large knife is sharper the longer the knife blade is. Although Polish law does not limit the length of the knife you carry, it will not be easy to convince the police or the court, if it comes down to it, that you only need a knife with a 20 cm blade in your belt for cutting envelopes.

In some European countries, the law determines the length of the blade of a knife that is allowed to be carried secretly is 10 cm, and in some states of the USA the blade must be even shorter - 3 inches, or 7.5 cm. What can we say about England, where such a knife is may cause you trouble, which will most likely result in the confiscation of the knife, and in addition to this, it is possible, a fine. In Switzerland, if you carry a knife that can be opened with one hand, the blade must be no more than 2 inches long. This limitation seems surprising, because we're talking about about a country where most men keep automatic rifles at home! The length of the blade of a knife that you can take with you on a plane is limited on most airlines to 2 inches, or 5 cm. On some airlines, however, they turn a blind eye to blades up to 3 inches, but they will never allow anything longer.

My experience, however, convinces me: in the city, no matter what I need a knife for, I can always get by with a folding version with a 7-8 cm blade, and a 10 cm blade is most likely just a luxury (overkill?). It is difficult to assess unambiguously whether the benefits of a large knife outweigh the troubles that the fears of others may cause you. Outside the city, a knife with a fixed blade 8-10 cm long satisfies my needs by 90%, and a blade reaching 12-13 cm in length meets all my expectations. A knife with such a blade is not so heavy and is quite convenient, but it doesn’t hurt to think about whether you need to carry additional weight just “just in case.”

At the same time, I would not advise even for the sake of simple work take with you a knife with a blade shorter than 5 cm. It is clear that such a blade is quite suitable for sharpening pencils and opening envelopes. But the handle of a small knife, as a rule, does not allow you to hold it in your hand confidently and safely. This can significantly affect the convenience and safety of using the knife. It happens, however, that a knife with a short blade has a handle of reasonable size, such as Spyderco Meerkat, specially manufactured so that it can be legally used on an airplane. However, such models are extremely rare.

Practical advice: in the city you can get by with a folding knife with a blade 7–8 cm long. If you decide to carry a knife with a blade 10 cm long, then you really have very serious reasons; at least you yourself must be convinced of this. It is better not to take with you abroad a knife with a blade longer than 7–7.5 cm, especially if you do not know what rules exist in this regard in this country (countries). If you are flying by plane, the blade of your knife should not exceed 5 cm.

Since we are talking about airlines, I note that I myself was an eyewitness when security refused to allow me to take a very small knife with me on a plane, the blade of which with a serrated blade was shorter than 5 cm. Information that I found on the Internet confirmed that such an incident - it is no exception that this happens in different countries and is typical for different airlines. The most plausible explanation for this would be that someone once told someone that you could make a hole in the aluminum skin of an airplane with a serrated blade. Perhaps it would be possible to cut through aluminum with high-quality steel, but in order to get to the outer skin with a knife with a blade 5 cm long, it would take more time (I have not tried, but I am generally familiar with the design of a passenger aircraft) than it takes flight from Europe to America. Even if no one bothers you. Such an assumption could be considered complete nonsense, but there is no chance of convincing airport security of this 5 minutes before departure. However, this is not the first and, apparently, not the last nonsense that the media has spread regarding air travel. When the Austrian Glock pistols with a plastic frame were just beginning to make their brilliant career, many newspapers published information that metal detectors at airports were not able to “notice” these pistols, and therefore terrorists could easily bring them on board. This is not true, since 80% of the mass of these “plastic” pistols are metal parts, and to be convinced of this, it is enough to try to walk through a “frame” with such a pistol at the airport. But newspapers love sensations...

Practical advice: If you want to avoid trouble and long, most likely fruitless explanations, do not take knives with a serrated blade on a plane.

Branded or no-name? The Polish market is flooded with knives from some unknown manufacturers, about whom, if anything is known, it is that they settled somewhere far away in the East. However, this is not only happening in Poland: the world is overwhelmed by a wave of goods made according to the “buy - use - throw away - buy new” recipe, and no one is able to cope with it. I'm not at all against one-time items like toothpicks or condoms; I also don’t mind things that are cheap but short-lived, say, socks or fountain pens. However, there are some consumer goods, regarding which I would like to be sure that I can rely on them - within reasonable limits, of course. For me, this is, in particular, a knife. I have no idea that you can’t open a cardboard box, sharpen a pencil or cut sausage with a knife of unknown origin that costs 30–50 zlotys. I don’t even exclude the possibility that this knife, if used from time to time, will not cause you much trouble, except for the difficult need to constantly sharpen a blade made of bad steel.

The fundamental difference between a branded knife and no-name is that the latter can, but does not have to, cope with his responsibilities as he should. No one can vouch for the quality of materials or the conscientiousness of execution, and who can vouch when it is not even known who made the knife. No one is responsible for the accuracy of execution, and therefore, for the proper operation of the mechanisms and the safety of the user. No one can guarantee that the knife will work at all. Let's imagine an extreme, albeit plausible, situation: a police officer or rescue worker has only a few seconds to pull an unconscious accident victim from a wrecked car that is about to catch fire or is already blazing. Reach the seat belt buckle if you are near open doors, it’s difficult, even if the car is on wheels and everything works. Then you grab the knife, and then it turns out that this “mongrel” has already served his purpose! I won't continue...

By this, of course, I don’t want to say at all that branded knives are 100% trouble-free, although mine personal experience confirms: this is so. In addition, the manufacturer of the branded knife gives it a “lifetime” guarantee. If something fails due to poor quality material or poor workmanship, it is enough to send the knife to a company where it will be fixed (and even sharpened) or replaced with a new one and sent to the user at his own expense, accompanied by an apology and gratitude for his patience. At least, this is what all the manufacturers whose knives I talk about in this book do. In the several years preceding the writing of the book, more than two hundred branded knives passed through my hands, and only two of them had a manufacturing defect - the locking device did not function very reliably. And although it was still very far from malfunctioning, and a slight loosening of the mechanism was not revealed immediately, only after intense, almost extreme permissible work knife, the manufacturers of these two knives sent me new ones in return at their own expense.

No-name in such a situation, you will have to throw it in the basket and buy a new knife, making sure once again that the stingy pays twice.

Once a salesman in a store that sold knives, having seen a prototype of a branded and very expensive knife, put it something like this: “How much could it cost - 150 dollars? No one will buy this from me, you wouldn’t buy it for that kind of money either.” Is it really no one? In the end, how much does a small car cost, and how much "Mercedes"- ok, let it not "Mercedes" let "Ford" or "Toyota"? So why doesn't everyone drive a small car? After that conversation with the salesman in the store, I wondered for a long time whether I really wouldn’t buy this knife, and came to the conclusion that I would. Even if I only had enough for one knife, it would, without a doubt, be a good thing.

Three years have passed since that conversation, and branded knives began to appear more and more often on the shelves of the same store. So maybe I'm right? Or maybe the poor cannot afford to buy things of dubious quality and short-lived? But let everyone decide for themselves.

Expensive or cheap? Even knives that are known about who produced them, that is, branded knives, cost differently, and the difference in price can be several times greater. Unfortunately, some economic laws cannot be beat, and good things must be expensive. When producing knives, what costs the most is not high-quality materials, but technological process their processing. For example, blades made of AUS-6 or 440A steel, which are found in the cheapest branded knives, can be stamped from rolled steel. And blades from ATS-34 or CPM 440V, which are used on the most expensive knives, are laser cut from sheet steel. Handle frame material zytel or kraton produced by injection method, a micarta or G-10 require precise cutting. In both cases, the difference in the cost of processing is many times greater than the difference in the cost of the source material.

In order not to bore you too much with theoretical calculations, I will say that knives have a very decent price-quality ratio, the retail price offered by manufacturers ranges from 70 to 100 dollars. For that kind of money you will get a knife that is well made and quite suitable for convenient and safe use. As the Americans would say, money and a knife. When getting ready to travel, especially if the route lies abroad, I, as they say, with a clear conscience, put in my pocket a knife that is not the most expensive. A well-thought-out design, embodied in simple but high-quality materials, good quality and reliability, which can be trusted, and a reasonable price. It is the latter who decides the matter: she will not allow me to commit suicide out of despair if such a knife is lost or if it is confiscated from me in foreign lands by a hypervigilant customs officer or policeman.

Knives for 100–150 dollars are of high quality workmanship, exquisite design, the best materials, such knives will never let you down anywhere: whether you open an envelope or sharpen a pencil, whether you want to cut a flower or cut a car seat belt, whether you have to accept participation in a rescue operation or defending yourself if you are attacked (well, I don’t wish this on any of my readers). Although the benefit-price ratio of such knives may not be as favorable as that of cheaper knives, their quality and reliability are incomparably higher.

When I go on a visit, I put in my pocket the most expensive knife that I can still afford to buy - for 150–200 dollars. Such an elegant knife is simply pleasant to hold in your hands, and even more pleasant to show it to your friends. We, after all, have the right to be snobbery, and not just to make mistakes. For reliability, quality and beauty, however, you have to pay more. I call it luxury.

If I were to travel to the Siberian taiga, the Tibetan mountains or the Amazon jungle, the first thing I would think about is the reliability of the knife, not its price. After all, it may happen that the knife breaks, and you can’t buy another one for any amount of treasure. But even in such circumstances, I would be quite happy with a knife for $100–$150.

This is an acceptable price range for me for the knives I use. Of course, such price limits are very arbitrary - everything here is dictated, in addition to common sense, your financial capabilities. I know people who constantly carry folding knives in their pockets for almost $350, and when going out of town on a picnic, they take a knife with a fixed blade, which costs about the same. If you look around carefully, you can find people who are not interested in knives that are cheaper than those made in one copy artistic products, the price of which in dollars is expressed as a number followed by four or five zeros. The topic is by no means exhausted by this. I'm willing to bet that if anyone wanted to buy a knife for $1,000,000, there would probably be someone who would not only make such a knife, but also convince the buyer that it was worth it. Demand determines supply, I didn’t discover it.

If we put aside snobbery and try to evaluate, as objectively as possible, the consumer qualities of a knife, we can find that above a certain price limit, a very tiny or simply imaginary improvement in quality leads to an increase in price that is completely incomparable with the benefits. I know that a $100 knife won't let me down, but I'm not at all sure that a knife made from the same materials but three times more expensive will do the job for me.

Yes, of course, manufacturers willingly publish advertising slogans or reviews praising their products. I myself have written many such reviews for various media, but I tried to highlight the actual consumer advantages of the knife, and not some “tight processing tolerances” that are interesting to no one knows and why they are needed. And I also noticed that only a few manufacturers of knives, even expensive ones, dare to publish objective data, especially those obtained by independent research centers. Even more than that: often an attempt to start a discussion on this topic causes a “defensive” reaction from the manufacturer.

Practical advice; If you want to be confident in your knife, buy a product from a reputable manufacturer, the best one you can afford. Try, however, not to go beyond the manufacturer's stated retail price of $50 to $150. Having crossed them (either down or up), you run the risk of being disappointed with the quality-price ratio.

So, we have discussed the main selection criteria that are common to all knives; Let's now try to divide the knives into groups - depending on their purpose. Here, too, there are a lot of all kinds of prejudices that are firmly entrenched in people’s minds and encourage them to make wrong decisions. It is believed that a hunting knife is needed for hunting, and an army knife is needed for hand-to-hand combat.

Hunter knives.“Why is he so small?” - one lady asked me, looking at the pictures for my article about the company’s hunting knives Spyderco in the magazine “Lowiec Polski” (“Polish Hunter”). The knife we ​​were talking about (ill. 36) is not so small at all; it can easily cut medium-sized hunting prey, for example a deer or wild boar.

The explanation here is simple: the lady thought that a hunting knife was a tool intended for hunting, if not the main one, then at least an auxiliary one. We must admit that this was once the case. When they hunted with crossbows and single-barreled flintlock guns, such a knife (actually a hunting dagger, Fig. 37) was an indispensable part of the hunter’s equipment. It was intended mainly for finishing off (stabbing) a shot large animal. Such a dagger could also be very useful if, after an unsuccessful hit or simply a miss, an angry animal “offered” the hunter to switch roles. The long and heavy, often double-edged blade of this knife was a poor assistant in parking lots and was not at all suitable for cutting up a dead animal. However, in those days when they hunted with crossbows and flintlocks, some hunted, while others set up camps and butchered the prey.

Nowadays, the classic hunting dagger, although it has already lost its former purpose, continues to be a source of pride for the hunter and a kind of sign of belonging to the hunting fraternity. It’s not surprising that such knives are still readily bought and, therefore, produced. The only difference is that now the hunting knife takes pride of place not on the hunter’s belt, but in his knife collection. A handcrafted, meticulously crafted hunting knife with a beautiful finish or carving on the handle stands out from the multi-functional but lacking in personality of modern knives, these products of high technology, and, without a doubt, serves as an adornment to any collection.

Nowadays, when hunting, a hunting knife plays a completely different role. It is needed for everyday work at a rest stop - say, for cooking, preparing for an overnight stay or repairing equipment. The knife needed for all this, in essence, is no different from typical bivouac (camping) knives, to the story of which we will now move on (ill. 39).

If the hunt was successful, then the shot animal must be gutted almost immediately, at least as soon as possible. If you hunted animals that are not eaten, only for the sake of their skin or fur (for example, a fox), then there is no point in dragging home the entire carcass, with which you then don’t know what to do. It’s better to skin it in the forest, and the local predators or carrion lovers will willingly “recycle” the rest. In other words, there are two more tasks that a hunting knife is designed to cope with: gutting a shot animal and skinning it. In both cases, a small knife is required so that it can be reached everywhere (Fig. 40). The knife must be balanced in such a way that it can be used to make precise cuts, that is, either neutrally or according to the “heavy handle - light blade” principle. Skinning the Beast average size- it's a lot of work, careful and requiring concentration. Therefore, a heavy knife is not needed for such work - it will constantly remind you of itself, and your wrist and palm will get tired from having to perform many small movements. A large, especially double-sided, guard will not be useful to you at all, it will only get in the way. Some people believe that the guard, no matter what, protects the palm and does not allow it to slip onto the blade during operation, but without a guard you can get hurt. I agree, a small guard probably won’t hurt if the knife is intended for everyday hunting work, but when gutting an animal, any guard will only get in the way. Cutting anything is a dangerous action by definition. An unbalanced person who does not know how to accurately calculate his movements, whose fingers do not work well, or who is simply incompetent, can be injured by a knife with a double-sided or even a closed, D-shaped guard, like a saber. I'm not even talking about the fact that no guard will protect his other arm, leg, chest, stomach, etc. But a careful person, whose fingers work normally, and who also skillfully wields a knife, will not be injured by a knife without garda. If this were not so, the Scandinavians and many other peoples would not have fingers on their hands at all, because a traditional Scandinavian hunting knife or a knife intended for everyday work in the field generally does without a guard, even the tiniest one. A comfortable handle that fits well in the palm, trimmed with a material on which the hand does not slip - that’s all that is really needed. Classic, wood or deer horn, the handles of hunting knives are held in the hand noticeably worse than modern ones, the handles of which are trimmed with a synthetic, rubber-like material - for example, kraton. We must also not forget that during work, hands are often wet and smeared with blood (paint, as hunters call it) and the fat of the animal. And it’s not surprising that often, along with models finished with classic materials, the exact same knife is also produced in a working version, with a handle made of practical but ugly synthetics.

Animals that become the prey of a hunter come in different sizes, and skinning a hare is not at all like skinning an elk or a bear, and I’m not even talking about a buffalo. It is clear that to cut a small animal you need a smaller knife. However, another thing is also clear: if an elk is several times larger than a hare, then the knife with which to skin it should not be as many times larger than the knife for gutting the hare. A large knife is not as convenient and not as maneuverable; This is especially felt when you need to do work that requires precision. The blade of a knife designed for skinning and gutting even a large animal should, as a rule, not be longer than 10–12 cm. When it comes to small animals or birds, it is better to use a knife with an even shorter blade, say 6– 8 cm. Actually, all this work comes down to “clean” cutting of the sides of the blade high pressure They don’t test it on themselves, so the optimal blade thickness of almost all hunting knives is 2.5–3.5 mm. True, hunting knives are also produced in which the blades reach a thickness of 4, and sometimes even 5 mm. But in such cases, the manufacturer, as a rule, proceeds from the assumption - and usually he is absolutely right - that his knife will be useful not only for skinning prey.

Gutting and skinning are processes that consist of many smooth, precise cuts, and therefore a knife with concave sections is best suited for this. However, many hunting knives are produced with completely or almost flat grinds. And - also in order to make the knife more versatile, suitable for other jobs, for example, for cooking. It is better if the tip of the blade is not too aggressive and sharp - this will reduce the likelihood that you will pierce the intestines of the animal during the process of gutting the prey or spoil its skin when you start to peel it. But not only the blade of the knife cuts, it also cuts the tip, so in some cases cutting with the tip of the knife can be very effective. Therefore, you should not deprive yourself of this opportunity by completely rounding the tip. In my opinion, the most suitable blade profile for most hunting knives is in the style drop point. This does not apply only to special knives that are intended exclusively (or almost so) for final, “finishing” skinning, or so-called skinning. The tip of the blade of such a knife can be almost round and strongly “upturned”, protruding beyond the conventional line representing the axis of the handle. In English literature, a similar knife is called skinner(from the word skin - skin, skinning- skinning) (ill. 42). A manufacturer sometimes offers the buyer the same knife model in different versions. Recently the company Spyderco released a very successful hunting knife Bill Moran Featherweight with blade profile drop point - in addition to the basic model with an upturned and sharp tip (Fig. 43).

About what the blade should be hunting knife, there is no consensus. Some hunters prefer a smooth, calm arc of the blade, from the blade of the blade to its very tip (Fig. 44). Others prefer a more expressive, protruding “belly” of the blade and its straight line to the handle (Fig. 45). Everyone, however, agrees that the arc of the blade should be quite clear. This helps you focus the force on the desired part of the blade and more confidently control the cut. Straight blade type Wharncliffe, and especially the concave one, at least in the front part, is not used in hunting knives. Although a slightly concave segment on one third of the rear section of the blade makes it easier to cut smooth, springy and therefore difficult to dissect veins and muscles. This blade is also useful for cutting fish fins, scales and bones (Fig. 46). It can also be replaced by a blade with a short serrated section at the back.

Can a hunting knife be folding? And why not, actually? A gunsmith friend of mine, an avid hunter, thinks this way: “I prefer a folding knife. It does not cling to bushes in the forest, does not rub against the weapon, I can put it in a spacious pocket. And besides, I know: no matter what happens, I won’t push myself against him. You say it could be clogged with dried blood and fur? So what, it’s hard to wash it, or what? I'll throw it in a bowl of water overnight, and in the morning I'll clean it with a hand brush, and that's the end of it. After all, every knife needs to be washed anyway.” Is he right? Perhaps yes.

A hunting knife should remain sharp for a long time. The thick skin of a wild animal, covered with thick hair, quickly dulls the knife. It’s even worse if the wool is very dirty, covered in sand; the forest animal is still not a petted domestic poodle. A dull knife requires excessive effort, loses accuracy and therefore becomes more dangerous. And in order not to be distracted by sharpening, it is best to purchase a decent branded knife made from high-quality materials. The steel must be sufficiently rigid. The flip side of rigidity - fragility - does not play a decisive role here, although it is clear that an encounter with a bone or a bullet fired by you should not cause the blade to crumble. However, you shouldn’t bother yourself with this, because when cutting up prey there is a lot of effort and sudden movements Not needed. Stainless steel will perform better than carbon steel - it is less susceptible to corrosion, and this is important if you are going to remote places for a long time. I advise you to avoid dull, matte blades: during long-term use, their surface is more susceptible to corrosion than a smooth, polished one. A light-repellent coating on the blade is not necessary - we're not at war - but at least it won't hurt. Since even stainless steel can rust, although not so much, additional protection for the blade, in my opinion, is certainly not a waste of time. Moreover, I do not understand the hostility of most hunters to blades coated with a special compound, especially black.

General purpose knives, they are also called bivouac, camping, etc. In other words, we are talking about a moderately universal knife, which we take with us to uninhabited or, at worst, sparsely populated places. There is a rule: “Take a folding knife, but only if you need it,” so it is obvious that you should give preference to a knife with a fixed blade. However, this is not so obvious: travelers, especially in our climate zone, always have an ax as an integral part of their equipment. And therefore it is likely that the knife will only be needed for cooking, opening packages, current repairs equipment, preparing wood chips and similar work feasible for a hunting knife. There is no need to use a knife to cut, even lightly, and if so, then there is no point in carrying around a large and heavy knife with a fixed blade. Especially when you are traveling on foot. If for some reason you are going on a hike alone, you will definitely need a good-quality, medium-sized axe. It can be complemented by a large folding knife, hunting or tactical folders, which I will tell you about now. If you nevertheless decide to take a knife with a fixed blade with you, then, for my taste, a small hunting knife like the one we just discussed would be just right.

It’s a completely different matter if we’re not going to the Siberian taiga, but to the nearest forest for a picnic or barbecue. Here you can “arm yourself” with a larger knife. It is possible that it will be useful even for modest chopping: well, let’s say, you want to cut down a twig in one easy, elegant movement in order to bake a sausage on a stick over the fire. The ladies will be delighted - wow, master! Nice... Someone will be surprised: “What are you talking about, Seryozha?! Carrying a knife to a picnic is more than carrying a knife to the Siberian taiga?!” Yes, that’s right: I won’t have an ax at the picnic, but chopping with a knife can make life a little easier. Besides, I go to a barbecue without a backpack, without sleeping bag, without a tent, without a supply of provisions, without a rifle and without God knows what else. So a knife that is a little heavier and won’t cause me any more trouble.

What should a general purpose knife be - a little larger or a little smaller? I would prefer a blade that is not very thick (3-4 mm) with a flat or very high concave grind, with a not very aggressive type tip drop point. The best steel is stainless; surface treatment does not matter much, although a protective coating, of course, would not hurt. It’s good if the balancing of the knife is neutral, but if the knife is larger, then the center of gravity may be on the blade, on its very heel, but not further. I prefer a handle with a hard synthetic finish rather than natural material. A large guard is not needed, a symbolic one is enough, but it may not exist at all. The recess under the index finger will reliably protect your hand, preventing it from slipping onto the blade. A sheath made of synthetic material will give you less trouble than one made of leather, although leather ones also have advantages (more on this in the “Sheath” chapter).

Army knives. This concept is often referred only to combat knives, that is, intended primarily for war and fully meeting this particular purpose. Such ideas are widespread mainly among civilians, who believe that the army does nothing but fight, and all soldier’s equipment should serve exclusively for this. The editor of one military newspaper, whom I persuaded to refute such primitive views, objected to me: “I know that a soldier needs a knife to kill almost in the last place. And you know this, but our readers want to read about knives that are meant to kill.” Here I can freely express my opinion on when a soldier uses a knife as a weapon.

First of all: combat, although it serves as the main means of achieving military goals, is by no means the only occupation for a soldier. It remains to be seen whether a soldier will have to engage in battle, much less use a knife, even if he is a scout or paratrooper operating behind enemy lines. But he must eat every day, and this is well known to everyone. Does a soldier generally have many tasks for which he needs a knife? - for example, open a parcel, repair it a quick fix some equipment, prepare an overnight stay. It is no less likely that the knife will have to be used for rescue work - for example, to free a wounded comrade from equipment. A knife adapted only for combat is, as a rule, a useless tool. To make sure of this, I tried to compare the cutting capabilities of several different types knives, deciding to cut a half-inch hemp rope folded in four as an experimental material. One of the best military style knives I know D2 Extreme Fighting/Utility Knife, produced by an American company Ka-Bar, taking as a model a knife that had proven itself well during the Second World War, it turned out to be a very mediocre tool. Although the knife was sharp as a razor and did a good job of shaving the hair on my forearm, I was not able to cut the hemp rope folded in four along the entire length of the rather small blade.

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From the book Grapes without difficulty author Kizima Galina Alexandrovna X hostesses, good afternoon or evening. Announcement: how many knives and which ones are needed in the kitchen. You and I often come across sets of knives or simply knives on the shelves, the purpose of which we do not know, and many people think: what if this is what I need.

Surveys have shown that knife sets are not a very practical thing, since some of them are not used at all, and others are not always convenient due to their size. Therefore, let’s set a rule for ourselves: we choose knives one at a time. Believe me, this is an economical and necessary rule, since you will be working with knives for many years, unless your family budget allows you to hire a cook.

You need to start with 3 knives: the largest is the chef’s knife, the small one is the cleaning knife, and the third one is chosen depending on your diet: if you are a lover of meat and fish, then buy a fillet knife. If you are a fan of bread products, then you need a bread knife. If you are a vegetarian or just love vegetables, and are also a fan of Asian cuisine, then best choice will become Chinese Cleaver. Many people prefer a good slicer.

A stand for knives can be purchased separately, and if someone’s husbands are craftsmen, then they can make it themselves. As an option, I can suggest a wall strip with a magnet to which knives “stick.”

First, a little clarification: the length of knives is usually indicated in inches. On the packaging of foreign companies you will see exactly this unit of measurement. I will indicate the length in cm, with inches in parentheses.

So, now let’s take a closer look at the listed knives.

Chef's knife (CHEF's, GYUTOU or GYUTO, SANTOKU or santoku (Japanese chef))

The chef's knife (European CHEF's knives) has many varieties and differs in its qualities, depending on the country of the manufacturer.

Look at the blade: wide, hard blade, length 15-20-25-30 cm(6-8-10-12 inches), gradually tapering towards the end.

For home cooking the most commonly used length is approx. 20-25 cm(8-10 inches). It is considered optimal.

The thin part of the knife is used to cut fillets and chop greens, the middle part is used to chop cabbage and other vegetables, and the thicker part is used to cut meat and chop thin, small bones. The flat part of the blade is used to crush garlic. The butt of the knife is also used: it is used to break the shell of crabs or beat off meat.

The Japanese chef's version is the GYUTOU or GYUTO knife. It has a thinner blade. Length 18-21-24-27-30 cm.

Take note: German models of chef's knife are thicker and heavier, so they are certainly better suited for chopping chicken bones than the Japanese GYUTO (guitou).

I present 2 more options for Japanese chef knives: NAKIRI (nakiri) - on top and SANTOKU (santoku) - bottom.

NAKIRI - more suitable for cutting vegetables. Blade width - 5-6 cm

SANTOKU is a universal multi-purpose knife. Blade width - 4-5 cm.

Another variant of santoku. Air remains in small recesses during slicing, like pockets, which reduces the possibility of food sticking to the knife blade. These blades are called "GRANTON EDGE".

Baby knives ( PARING, PEELING, SHEEP FOOT, BIRD's BEAK, PETTY)

PARING, PEELING, PETTY - this knife is a classic, shaped like the chef's version. The length of the short hard blade is 5-10 cm.

Used for peeling potatoes, citrus fruits, as well as peeling and slicing fruits and so on. This shape is more convenient if you are cutting on a cutting board.

But if you peel food while holding a knife in your hand, then the best option for you would be a knife with a SHEEP FOOT blade.

I suggest you look at the shape of the blade: SHEEP FOOT. The blade resembles a small santoku. You see it has a straight blade. As I already mentioned, it is convenient to use if you work on weight and not on a cutting board.

The next type of knife is “BIRD's BEAK” or “TOURNE knife”. In Russian it is called “claw”.

This knife is also used for peeling round foods.

Another simple classic kids. I offered this photo as one of the knife options.

Knife for bread products (BREAD Pan kiru knife)

We eat bread every day. Have you noticed how delicious the crispy crust is? fresh bread? And what kind of fragrant crumb? We start cutting and what we see: the crust breaks, the crumb is pressed through and cannot be cut. An ordinary knife will not work here.

I present a serrated knife. Take a look at its blade: it's serrated. The end of the knife is rounded.

This knife is perfect for slicing any type of bread, muffins, or, for example, cutting a cake. It is also used for peeling or slicing hard-skinned fruits with delicate flesh, such as watermelon or pineapple (shorter blades can be used for pineapple). The serator can also cope with slicing a steak during a meal.

Optimal serator blade length 25–30 cm (i.e.10-12 inches).

And in this photo I suggest looking at a knife from the German company “GUDE”. He is considered one of the best of his kind.

But these knives have a weak point - one minus. These knives become dull after one or two years of housework and sharpening them is not an easy task. Often you have to throw them away and buy a new one. That's why serrated knives It's better to buy cheap ones.

Knife with SCALLOPED blade

This knife, among other properties, is also used for slicing bread. That's why I imagine it right behind the bread knife.

Look at the blade: it's wavy. This knife can cut meat more delicately and beautifully than a serator, and the cut is cleaner. Initially, these knives were used for cutting confectionery.

Back in the 20th century, it was produced at the Pavlovskaya Artel.

Now recognized manufacturers of such knives are companies MAC SB015 And Wusthof Super slicer.

Such knives are easier to sharpen than serrated knives.

Knife from Spyderco

Take a look at its blade: it is semi-serrated.

This knife will do the job easily if you need to cut a ridge. large fish or tendons and small bones or ridges (for example, chicken), and even frozen.

Since we often do similar operations at home while preparing food, it’s worth taking a closer look at this knife.

The next group of knives is fillet knives - a fairly common group.

Fillet knives (FILLET)

This knife can be immediately recognized among other types of knives. They are the narrowest and longest. He has a narrow specialization: he cuts meat or fish into very thin and even pieces. Blade length 18 cm. The blade is elastic.

In the pictures nearby I presented several more options for fillets. I would like to note that due to the specificity of these knives, housewives rarely use them, because their main function is decoration and serving dishes.

I propose to take a look at some more “relatives” of FILLET - fillet knives.

SALMON is a salmon knife. This knife has a very flexible long, narrow blade with a length 30 cm(12 inch). As you might have guessed, it is designed for slicing large fish such as salmon into thin slices.

To summarize, a fillet knife is needed when you need the knife to slide along the skin and rib bones or when you need to make cuts along the spine along the ribs.

Knife SLICER (slicer), CARVING, Sujihiki, gastronomic knife

The name - gastronomic - is suggested by its purpose: these knives are used for slicing sausages, cooked meat, roast beef, ham or ham in a thin layer.

Blade length 20-45 cm(9-18 inches). This is a long and narrow knife with a rigid, sometimes slightly flexible blade.

The top picture is a classic slicer, and the bottom one is called Yatagan.

Slicers allow you to make a cut in one movement, which leads to beautiful slicing.

This is another type of slicer - CARVING. Blade length - 23 cm(9 inches).

Please note that it comes with a plug. This set is used for cutting fried meat.

Notice that they are decorated with carvings? This is not easy: the fact is that roast beef is always cut in the presence of guests using a fork and knife, so this pair is decorated.

The Japanese version of the European slicer is Sujihiki.

The Japanese are lovers of marine life. These knives are used to open shells and crab shells.

This knife with a rounded end is another one of the slicers. It is called HAM (HAM). Its blade length is approx. 25 cm(10 inches). They use it to cut thin slices from ham or ham, or from sturgeon, etc.

Finally, I can’t help but brag about the domestic gastronomic knife from G.K. Prokopenkova. It is called the diamond among slicers. It has such a shape and structure of the blade that it can also be used as a fillet knife. This knife is exceptionally sharp and easy to use. Nobody makes knives like this anymore.

Chinese Cleaver Knife

You can jokingly call it a knife: it’s most likely a hatchet. The blade is rectangular in shape. Its length 19-22 cm, width 9-11 cm, weight 300-800 g. The handle is short and strong.

This knife (of Chinese origin) has 3 varieties: thin, designed for cutting meat and vegetables; medium cut fish and poultry (length - 22 cm, width - 10 cm); Frozen foods are cut with heavy weights.

Minced meat chopped with such knives turns out tastier, since the meat is chopped and not choked.

All parts of the knife are used: the butt beats and crushes products, the plane is used for chopping or transferring products, and the handle can be used like a pestle.

So, I think she told me about the main knives. Of course, there are auxiliary and specific knives, but it is better to talk about them in a separate article, since there are quite a lot of them.

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Choosing a kitchen knife for professional chefs is a whole science with its own terminology, secrets and rules - after all, for them, a knife is almost an extension of the hand. We, ordinary people, do not need to understand all the intricacies of this science and have a full set of tools, but everyone can learn to distinguish good kitchen knives from bad ones and correctly create their own “chef’s troika”.

Briefly about the main thing

If you dive into short course you don’t want to choose knives and you only need one quality knife multi-purpose, we offer the following solutions:

• Best choice for men: the so-called “chef’s knife” (chef’s knife, French knife) made of stainless steel 20-25 cm long (universal length - 21 cm or 8 inches). This tool can do 80% of all work: cut, cut, chop, shred, beat. Manufacturers: the most expensive and best - old brands Wusthof and Zwilling J.A. Henckels (pictured below), mid-price category - "Victorinox" and "Arcos", from the budget - quite decent "Tramontina" (pictured below) and "Opinel".

• Best choice for woman: In the vast majority of women's hands, universal “kitchenware” 13-16 cm (or 5-6 inches) long fit best. This knife is a cross between a classic chef's knife and a slicer, and it does an excellent job with most types of work.

Manufacturers: top ones - the same Wusthof, Zwilling J.A. Henckels, as well as F.Dick, Shun, etc., the mid-price category - "Victorinox" and "Arcos", from the budget - quite decent kitchen knives "Tramontina", Trupperware or "Opinel" made of carbon steel (pictured below is model no. 102 with a blade 10 cm long).

Opinel, model no. 102, 10 cm

• Set of basic knives “kitchen three”: A kitchen or chef's troika is a set of three knives that are most often used at home. Typically this is:

1. Chef's knife for general use - since this is the most important knife in the kitchen, we will consider the question of how to choose the right quality copy below in more detail;
2. Serrator for cutting bread, as well as puff pastries, vegetables, fruits 20-26 cm long - the knife has a serrated blade and is a bit like a saw. It cuts bread perfectly without allowing it to wrinkle, and delicately cuts the skin of tomatoes and other fruits and vegetables with thin skins. There is no need to spend a lot of money on buying such a knife, the main thing is to find one so that the teeth on the serrated blade are not too large or too small. For example, this Victorinox model has a medium tooth size, but finding more affordable analogues will not be difficult.

1. A knife for peeling vegetables, chopping garlic and other “small” work, 8-10 cm (3-4 inches) long – spending a lot of money on buying this knife also doesn’t make sense, so take the one that you like in appearance and price.

Some more useful information

How to choose the right chef’s knife that can serve you for many years, read in the next chapter or watch in the video clip of authoritative enthusiast and specialist Andrei Kozlovsky.

8 Tips You Need to Know Before Buying a Chef's Knife

First let's formulate General requirements for good kitchen knives:

• The blade remains sharp for a long time;
• The knife cuts food easily and quickly;
• The handle fits comfortably in the hand and does not slip.

How can you understand which kitchen knife meets this requirement and which one does not? Here are 8 tips for choosing a versatile chef's tool.

1. Evaluate your old knife

The concept of a “good knife” is partly subjective, because while one person may like a knife, another person may find the same tool unsuitable for their cutting style. Therefore, first you need to understand and formulate for yourself what you like and don’t like about the old instrument.

• Disadvantages may be the following: too heavy/light weight, too long/short blade, the blade quickly dulls or rusts, the spine rubs your finger when cutting for a long time, the handle or the cut itself is not very comfortable, for example, the knife does not completely cut food when chopping, etc. .d.

2. Select the type of steel

The ability of a knife to remain sharp for a long time depends on the type and quality of steel from which the blade is made. Kitchen knives are made from a variety of types of steel, but most often these are:

1. Stainless Steel is the most common material and is more suitable for the modern average user. Stainless steel dulls quickly (stainless steel kitchen knives are usually sharpened once every 1-1.5 months), but does not require special care;
2. Carbon steel (Carbon knife) - this alloy cuts better due to its hardness, the blade remains sharp for a long time, but at the same time it is more fragile, quickly rusts, reacts to acids and becomes patina, so it requires special care and careful handling. But many professional chefs prefer this type of steel. The next photo shows what a new carbon steel knife looks like and a darkened knife covered with patina, which, by the way, does not affect the quality of the cut in any way, but on the contrary makes the blade more hygienic and, in our opinion, more noble in appearance.

• Should you buy ceramic knives? In our opinion, this is just an addition to basic set steel knives - although they remain sharp for a long time, their blades are too fragile, and if they do become dull, it will be almost impossible to sharpen them at home. However, it makes sense to buy inexpensive ceramic knives that can be replaced periodically.

3. How to inspect blades

• So that you can chop well, cutting vegetables/fruits to the end, and also in order to save the main part of the cutting edge when chopping bones, choose a knife with an open heel, that is, when the blade is sharpened from the tip to the very heel of the bolster. On the other hand, most chef knives come with a closed heel and for many it does not bother them. The photo below shows two types of chef's knife - with a closed and open heel.

with open bolster heel

with closed bolster heel

• The thicker the blade, the better it is;
• The blade of a good chef should be smooth, and in high-quality stainless steel knives it should be completely mirror-like;
• Pay attention to the quality of processing of the butt - it should be smooth so that your finger does not become calloused during long cutting.

4. Handle inspection

• The highest quality tools are forged from a single piece of steel that runs through the entire knife - from the tip to the end of the handle. Thus, part of the steel is inside the handle between two plates. This fragment is called a full shank. If the steel does not go all the way to the handle, then it is called a half shank. Tools with a full shank are better balanced, this is truly an indicator of quality, but they are significantly more expensive.

• The handle of the knife must be solid, tightly welded, strong - there should not be the slightest gaps or traces of welding at the joints of the parts. A poorly welded handle will become loose over time, and cutting the knife will become less effective due to a decrease in the force of pressure on it; in addition, dirt will begin to collect at the joints of the handle.
• Also keep in mind that the material should not be slippery or become slippery due to oil getting on the handle.
• As for the material of the linings, today the most commonly used materials are plastic, wood or rubber. Perhaps plastic, a composite of plastic and wood, and hard rubber are the best options.

5. Balance test

If you're looking to buy a new, high-quality knife, try using your old chef's example (if you have one) to figure out what kind of knife balance you want—one with a heavier handle, one with a heavier blade, or one with a balanced blade and handle. It is believed that a balanced knife is more convenient to use, and yet this is a very individual indicator. And, unfortunately, a balanced knife is not so easy to find even among expensive items. To test the knife, you need to place the knife with a bolster on your finger as shown in the photo below and try to “catch” the balance. If the knife does not fall off, then most likely it is a great specimen. (be careful, keep in mind that an inexpensive knife will fall right away).

6. How long should the blade be?

• The larger the cook's hand, the larger size he can afford blades, and vice versa, the smaller the hand, the smaller the tool should be, although this, of course, is not a rule, but rather a recommendation for non-professional cooks;
• Small kitchen knives are safer, but larger ones can cut more food at once;
• Keep in mind that most often the blade length of European knives is measured in inches. Chefs are typically 8, 10, and 12 inches long.

7. Japanese or European?

Chef's knives are divided into three groups: Japanese, European (Western) and knives made in Japan, but adapted for the “European”. In this photo you can see the difference between the hybrid (Misono) and the typical Euro-chef from Henckels.

• At home, it is preferable to have a European (Western) type chef, since chopping vegetables or, for example, cutting up chicken is much more convenient for them due to the rounded shape of the cutting edge and the blade sharpened on both sides.
• Traditional Japanese knives are more suitable for true connoisseurs of knife art and lovers of Japanese cuisine. The classic “Japanese” has a one-sided blade sharpening, a very thick spine, the shape of the cutting edge is almost straight, and it can only be sharpened on water stones. The main way to work with it is vertical movements, that is, practically chopping. In general, this instrument cannot be called a generalist.
• Here's another category Japanese knives, that is, Western-style hybrid knives, have gained popularity throughout the world and are valued for their very high quality steel that holds an edge for a long time. But they have one big disadvantage - they are still very demanding in terms of care. The most famous Japanese knives are made by Misono (pictured above) and Shun.

If the topic of Japanese knives interests you, we suggest watching a video review of a European chef and a Japanese hybrid in a Western style.

The knife rightfully deserves the title of the oldest kitchen tool. Even in the 21st century of high technology, when the kitchen cannot do without a mixer, blender, electric meat grinder, etc., an object with a sharp blade does not lose its relevance.

On store shelves today you can find many types of kitchen knives with names and photos, but they will tell little to the average housewife and novice cook. It’s easy to get lost in such a variety of models. How to choose a product that fully satisfies your needs and not overpay for unnecessary features? The answers to this and many other questions are in this article.

Chefs say that three knives are enough in the kitchen. And they are right... partly. Because these three knives are different for everyone. The characteristics of tools are determined by preferences in food and methods of preparing it. And yet, let’s look at the main types of kitchen knives with photos first.

Chef's knife

A chef’s knife, or simply a “chef,” is like a pen for a teacher, a steering wheel for a driver, it is the main tool of 98% of chefs. Almost all operations for grinding products are carried out with his direct participation. On different continents, the instrument has characteristic differences due to the unique gastronomic and cultural traditions of the population.

European chef knife

Received maximum distribution in our area. The length of the blade does not exceed 30 centimeters. Having the back of the handle and the butt at the same level creates a comfortable clearance for the fingers between the cutting board and the handle. Thanks to this design, the instrument can be used for hours without feeling heavy or uncomfortable in the hand.

The production is based on 55-58 HRC - medium-hard steel, sharpened at an angle of 20 degrees to the side. The product requires frequent editing, but it has enviable strength and can withstand impressive loads. The described type of kitchen knives is universal - it will chop soft foods, cope with the separation of tendons and cut bones of medium thickness. The side surface will do an excellent job of crushing, the butt will beat off the meat no worse than a hammer.

According to the shape of the blade, German and French types of kitchen knives are distinguished; photos and purposes are presented below.

“Germans” are equipped with a cutting edge with a distinctive, uniform bend.

"French" have smoother edges, the edge is a straight line that bends slightly towards the point. The shape of the cutlery determines the cutting technique characteristic of the country's national cuisine - swinging or linear, respectively.

Japanese "chef's knives"

The peculiarity of instruments with more than a century of history is their narrow specialization and specific profile, which makes them not popular enough among the mass audience. After World War II, knives arrived in the east European production, which the local population modified and adapted in their own way. Returning to the West, the updated models were received with interest and quickly gained popularity.

The following types of Japanese kitchen knives can be distinguished:

1. Gyuto. Made in the French style. Its production is based on steel of maximum hardness (from 60 HRC), cut quite thinly and sharpened only 15 degrees to the side. By operational characteristics a simple gyuto will give a head start to elite European knives and practically does not need sharpening. Available from the Japanese representative and weak sides, due to its increased fragility, it is intended exclusively for cutting.
2. Santoku. The blade is shortened, widened, with a spine rounded to the base. The knife is indispensable for chopping, slicing, and fine chopping. Like the gyuto, the instrument is made in the national traditions of the country - high-hardness steel and minimum angle sharpening.

Chef's knife originally from China

The “calling card” of such a device is an extended rectangular blade. It is often called a “Chinese cleaver”, although, as can be seen in the photo, it refers to the types of kitchen knives of this type he has no relation.

A blade that is too light and thin will not allow it to chop hard foods. It is much more convenient for them to cut and chop. A wide blade often functions as a spatula: by carefully prying up the chopped ingredients of a dish, you can immediately send them to the frying pan.

We figured out the types and purposes of kitchen knives, and it became clear that choosing a “chef” is a responsible task. The remaining (specialized) tools will be used less often, they will do what they are designed for. As for the “chief”, he will practically not be out of hand. If a mistake was initially made during the selection process, after 2-3 months it will manifest itself, and working with the knife will be problematic.

In order not to lose your head over the types of kitchen knives, it is enough to observe yourself for a day or two. Which cutting method is preferable? Vertical, horizontal or swinging? The answer to the question will determine the length and shape of the blade. A curved blade is suitable for cutting by swinging; for chopping, a straight, wide blade would be ideal; drawing movements are easier to carry out with a straight, elongated tool.

When looking at photos of types of kitchen knives and their purposes, you should pay attention to the volume of the handle. It must match the parameters of the user's palm. A thick device in a small hand, and vice versa, will create discomfort and impair the quality and speed of cutting.

Quality of steel. Offers famous brands correspond to the price-quality ratio. The characteristics of the cut are determined by the method of sharpening, and the grade of steel determines only the duration of maintaining the sharpness of the knife. For home use, a “chef” in the budget and mid-price categories is sufficient; they will not dull quickly and will provide decent grinding quality.

Beginning chefs learning the types and purposes of kitchen knives are recommended to purchase a European knife with a blade length of 20 centimeters. This is a universal option, easy to learn and undemanding to use. It is better to leave the “Japanese” ones for honing your skills; they are “capricious” to care for and difficult to sharpen.

Universal model

These types of kitchen knives are something between vegetable and chef's tools. The length of the blade is in the range of 12-15 centimeters, the width does not exceed 3. They can perform any operations, but this will not always be convenient. Experts agree that this is not the most useful variety cutting devices. For amateur cooks, such a device can serve as a spare one.

Vegetable and fruit knife

Cook's cutting tools They do an excellent job of quickly chopping large volumes of products, but as for small jobs, problems may arise. Their weight and dimensions play against maneuverability. This explains the popularity of types of kitchen knives, and their purpose is indicated in the name - peeling vegetables, chopping them, removing small dirt. The blade of such a knife is 7-12 centimeters in length. The blade can be straight or concave. This knife is convenient to use when cutting out edible decorative figures.

Bread knife

The main difference between this device is serrated sharpening. The task of the tool is clear - to cut the hard bread crust without damaging the crumb. The long narrow blade can handle even freshly baked baked goods.

Resourceful chefs also use a compact knife for other culinary operations that are similar in meaning, for example, for cutting crispy-skinned duck baked in the oven.

Fillet and boning knives

The types and names of kitchen knives most often reflect the task assigned to them. The two types of tools mentioned above are excellent at separating meat from bones, thinning, removing skin, etc. Thanks to the flexible thin blade, they smoothly separate meat from ridges, bones from the most hard to reach places. A boning knife has a shorter and stronger blade than a fillet knife.

cutting knife

For slicing ready-made dish used in thin, neat slices special type kitchen knives. The narrow, thin, elongated blade allows cutting with long longitudinal movements without the use of force. Beautiful slices will become a stylish presentation of any dish.

Hatchets and cutlasses

The purpose of the cleaver is to cut pieces of meat with small and medium bones. Its blade is thick and heavy, and there are no high demands on its sharpness. This device is indispensable for owners of small farms and hunters. The tip of the hatchet is made in characteristic form triangle and allows you to cut larger bones.

Special purpose knives

There are several dozen knives designed to perform one operation. The tool for cutting soft cheese is equipped with special holes in the blade. Reducing the contact area of ​​the knife with the product prevents the latter from sticking and allows you to obtain even thin slices.

To cut tomatoes, use a fine-grained device; it easily cuts through the tough skin without deforming the flesh of the vegetable.

This group can also include a pizza knife, the cutting element of which is represented by a pointed disk.

Ceramic knives

Products with a blade made of zirconium dioxide (ceramics) have gained serious popularity in last years. Manufacturers produce them in the most popular variations - universal, chef's or vegetable. The advantage of such tools is the high hardness and sharpness of the blade, which is maintained at a record long term. The price for this is fragility - they cannot cut bones and frozen foods. Sharpening is carried out using special equipment; it is practically impossible to do at home. Most manufacturers indicate on the packaging: “return to factory for sharpening.”

Additional tools

Kitchen scissors will be a useful attribute in the kitchen. The range includes reinforced versions of standard scissors and analogues. They are indispensable when cutting poultry, removing fish fins, etc.

Musat is a metal rod with special notches and a handle. Its main purpose is to straighten knives. The tool will effectively handle a curled cutting edge without removing metal from the blade.

Instructions for use and care

In order for a new knife to serve its owner for decades, bringing pleasure from every perfect cut, it is necessary to adhere to a number of rules.

Learn proper cutting technique. This will save hours of time in the future and also minimize the chance of injury and cuts.

Keep your knives sharp. It is much easier to cut yourself with a blunt instrument. The sharp one obeys the cook, the dull one lives his own life. European-style knives need regular editing, optimally before each start of cooking. Sharpening is appropriate when editing does not help. Following this recommendation is the key to long service life of the product. “Natives of Japan” are sharpened as necessary, but without fanaticism. If the blade needs maintenance, it is enough to refresh it a little, without complex sharpening with fine and coarse abrasives.

Avoid hard surfaces. Ceramic plates, glass boards and steel countertops are the main enemies of knife sharpness. They instantly dull the equipment. A suitable base for work is wooden and plastic boards.

Upon completion of work with the knife, it must be thoroughly washed, wiped dry and stored. Leaving tools in the sink and dishwasher for long periods of time leads to premature rust formation. Heap storage in a box - no The best decision. Here they will become a potential source of danger. It is better to get a special stand or magnetic tape.