The name royal pelargonium fully justifies itself. It's truly luxurious and capricious flower, truly a royal person among pelargoniums or simply geraniums. Care royal pelargonium has its own characteristics, and achieving its flowering is not always easy; you need to know some nuances. The plant is light-loving. In winter, its shoots become very elongated due to insufficient lighting, and the plant needs to be shaped by pruning every spring. At the same time upper layer The soil in the pot is replaced with fresh soil without replanting the plant.
Royal pelargonium does not tolerate waterlogging; it can even make it sick. But the soil should be constantly moist in summer, and watering should be sufficiently abundant. In winter, water less frequently, only a couple of times a month. The water should be settled and at room temperature. Watering is carried out through a tray. This prevents soil compaction, which royal pelargonium cannot tolerate. And the roots will receive a sufficient amount of moisture through the pan. Caring for royal pelargonium should include a dormant period in the winter months with scanty watering and an air temperature of 13-15 degrees. In this plant, bud formation occurs only at low temperatures.
Another little secret concerning pelargonium. All geraniums, including royal pelargonium, bloom better in cramped containers, so they are transplanted only when the root system is so developed that it penetrates out through the drainage hole. But even then new pot you need to choose only a little larger than the old one, 1.5 centimeters in diameter. To fertilize, buy special fertilizers for pelargoniums and apply them twice a month during the growing season.
Growing royal pelargonium
The main whim of this aristocratic beauty is that, compared to other types of pelargonium, it does not indulge us in very long flowering.
Royal pelargonium blooms very little - only a few months a year. And even then she pleases with flowers only on the condition that in winter she was provided with correct content: cool temperature(not higher than +15 degrees) and additional lighting.
However, those flower growers who once saw the enchanting bloom of this beauty and fell unconditionally in love agree to all her whims. Providing the nuances of caring for noble pelargonium begins to seem like a small thing to them compared to the long-awaited celebration of its flowering!
So, for royal pelargonium to successfully take root in the house and delight regular flowering, you must follow several important rules:
1. Accommodation. Royal pelargoniums love to bask in the gentle rays. But in extreme heat, you need to additionally protect this plant from the hot sun, because otherwise it can easily get burned.
Unlike other types of pelargoniums that live safely in warm time years in the garden, royal pelargonium is afraid of rain and wind. Therefore, it is better to leave it at home or place it in cozy corner glass terrace, veranda or balcony with plenty of fresh air.
2. Temperature conditions. Aristocratic pelargonium does not tolerate heat. Having given all my strength to exist in conditions high temperature, royal pelargonium then does not grow for a long time and, moreover, does not bloom.
It is advisable that the winter and night temperature of keeping it in a bright, cool place does not exceed 15 degrees (which is easy to arrange in winter garden, but not always possible in a living room).
IN unfavorable conditions maintenance, especially in hot weather, pests (aphids, whiteflies) appear on the leaves of royal pelargonium.
3. Flowering. Considering the relatively short period of flowering of noble pelargonium, I want to observe this beauty longer!
As emphasized above, for longer and more luxuriant flowering you need to winter time provide the correct temperature conditions and additional lighting and rare watering. Then many flower buds will form on the bush.
Royal pelargonium will bush better and bloom more luxuriantly if you regularly pinch the tops of the plant's shoots in advance. But this procedure should be stopped long before flowering begins, so that the buds have time to form on the bush.
Prolonging the flowering of noble pelargonium is facilitated by fertilizing the plant during the period of active growth, in spring and summer. Ideal use liquid fertilizers For flowering plants high in potassium and microelements.
From March to August, noble pelargonium is required abundant watering, but without moisture stagnation!
And, of course, to prolong the flowering of the pelargonium bush and maintain a neat appearance, you need to remove fading flowers.
Reproduction of royal pelargonium
Royal pelargonium is propagated vegetatively, by cutting the tips of the shoots. Best time for this procedure - late summer and early autumn, August-September.
The ends of the cut apical cuttings of noble pelargonium with 2-3 internodes should be sprinkled with charcoal powder with the addition of “Kornevin”, and then dry them a little (a couple of hours).
After this, I place the cuttings prepared for planting in moistened sand or a mixture of sand and peat (in equal parts).
Under no circumstances should you cover rooting cuttings of royal pelargonium!
The classic method by which vegetatively zonal pelargoniums are usually propagated - rooting cuttings in water - is not suitable for noble pelargonium. Because royal pelargonium cuttings placed in water inevitably rot. Yes and mature plant does not tolerate excessive watering: its roots rot, and it appears on the shoots gray mold. For this reason, rooting cuttings of royal pelargonium need to be watered very carefully: only as the substrate dries, and only along the edge of the pot.
I transplant rooted young plants into pots with drainage holes and a drainage layer, filled with a light nutrient substrate.
Well-groomed royal pelargoniums grow well root system, successfully develop, form beautiful bush and bloom the next year.
Orolevo geranium requires careful and attentive care, as the plant is quite capricious. In insufficient light it blooms poorly or does not bloom at all. In addition to intense lighting, it also requires sufficient coolness (10-15 degrees). Therefore it is recommended in summer time keep for a year outdoors. This one has tender plant a brittle stem bearing beautiful flowers. To enhance flowering, the plant must be fed once a week during the period when buds appear with standard fertilizer for flowering plants. Removing dried flowers and leaves will also encourage flowering.
Royal geranium grows well. After the end of the flowering season, it is necessary to form a crown, i.e. trim branches and pinch out buds. This cannot be done in the spring, because the plant is entering the flowering phase. In summer, the plant needs to be watered abundantly, and in winter – sparingly. The temperature in winter should be maintained around 10-15 degrees Celsius, for which it is moved closer to the glass or placed on closed veranda(loggias).
There is no need to replant geraniums often, because they need loose, light, nutritious soil, well drained. It is better to use soil from a mixture of sand and turf soil in a 1:1 ratio or a mixture of equal parts sand, perlite and high-moor peat, pre-disinfected. As the plant ages, it loses its attractiveness - the stems grow and fall apart, so there is a need for pruning, that is, rejuvenation, which involves cutting off the apical cuttings of the flower.
Many types of geranium take root easily at any time of the year, but not royal geranium, it requires special conditions.
Since propagation by cuttings occurs at the beginning of spring and end of summer, the air temperature in spring should fluctuate in the range of 18–20 degrees, and in summer no more than 25 degrees. In case of non-compliance temperature regime Rooting becomes weak and not all cuttings take root. In cold summers, the entire period of active growth is suitable for reproduction. And in the spring, the plant from which cuttings are taken for propagation should enter the active growth phase.
Cuttings cut with a sharp knife and dried are planted in the ground. Rooting lasts about 3 weeks, and they are not watered, but only sprayed. After rooting, the central stem of young plants is pinched for branching.
I’m afraid to disappoint you, but I don’t have any special secrets in growing royal pelargoniums. Everything is like everyone else.
Previously, royal pelargoniums grew on my windowsills and bloomed wonderfully.
The varieties that performed best at home were Aztec, Dark Secret, Eileen Postle, Fareham, First Blush, Hazel Candy, Imperial, Lord Bute, Mont Blanc (this is generally a very hard-working variety), Peter's Choice, Roussilion, Vampires Kiss, Bold Candy and RAS varieties. But this is my observation regarding these varieties. They did not stretch much and bloomed profusely.
This year we have the most comfortable conditions for wintering pelargoniums. Now they winter at a temperature of +15 degrees (too much, they need it cooler). On a sunny winter day, the daytime temperature reaches +30 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly ventilate, for which vents in the roof were specially equipped. Last winter, pelargoniums overwintered in film greenhouse, there the temperature did not rise above +10 degrees, but in very coldy was +4 degrees. This is what they need. Plants from this temperature become very stocky, many buds are laid in the axils of the leaves. And the color of the flowers becomes more intense. Moreover, along with the royal ones, both zonal and ivy-leaved ones spent the winter there. Everyone felt great in such conditions. Regarding pruning, I can say that I am a supporter of coordinated measures. Sometimes I prune so that lignified stumps remain without a single leaf. The main thing is not to be afraid, otherwise it will be more expensive for yourself later. The plant will stretch out and bloom somewhere on the top of the head. After a while (you will have to wait for a while), these stumps begin to overgrow and turn into fluffy bushes. And every time after pruning you wonder, will they really grow back? And they grow - small buds, begin to wake up along the woody stem. And another main point. After pruning, you need to be careful with watering, since there is little leaf mass, as a result of which evaporation and photosynthesis are slowed down. Due to excess moisture, there is a possibility of soil acidification and, as a result, rotting of the root system. I do the pruning at the end of September - beginning of October and immediately transplant it into new land. I make the soil mixture myself. The main part is pine needles, fortunately they grow around the city pine forests. I also add purchased land Terra Vita, large White sand(precisely coarse) and a little humus (just a little, because if you overdo it, the earth will turn out heavy, it will sour and quickly cake). Instead of sand, you can use perlite or vermiculite, but sand is cheaper, since my husband brings it to me from the Don River. The earth mixture turns out airy and very crumbly, and main role sand plays in this. I replant my “Queens” every year - nutrients In such land, a year is enough for full growth and flowering. I have never fertilized anything before. Pelargoniums bloomed, so to speak, from their own potential and received all their nutrients from the ground, which was already moderately fertilized with humus. Now I’m conducting a small experiment: I water one part with Kemira Lux fertilizer (I read a lot about miraculous properties), and the other part with plain tap water, as I did before. I want to see who will bloom faster and more luxuriantly, and in general what the differences will be. I will definitely write about the results of my experiment.
And the main thing that is our mistake is that, having received a cutting of a new variety, we are looking forward to its flowering (well, now, it seems like the buds have already appeared). But there are no buds, they turned out to be leaves, and then again leaves. And the end result is a plant that looks like a “giraffe” with flowers on the top of its head. But you don’t need to do this, otherwise it will be more expensive for yourself and a lot more fuss. This is what happened to me with the Marchioness of Bute variety (well, I really wanted to see how it blooms). In two years it grew into a meter-long stick and did not bloom - alas. Yesterday I got angry with him and gave him a blow to the head. Maybe he’ll get scared and decide to please me with flowers someday. I don’t make such mistakes anymore and I don’t advise you to.
Oh, sorry, it turned out to be a whole poem.
Http://pelargonium-club.ru/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t781.html
A flower that requires special care and approach to propagation. This article is devoted to the issue of propagating pelargonium using. This process is quite simple, but it has a number of features and a certain amount of free time. There is a possibility that the procedure will not bring positive result the first time, but don’t despair, because even experienced gardeners Setbacks happen from time to time.
Cutting and preparing cuttings
Important! The soil should be pressed tightly around the shoots - if this is not done, air bubbles that form around the stem can adversely affect the process of formation of the root system.
In order to provide the young shoots with a sufficient level of moisture, the pot is covered with a transparent plastic bag. Next, you should produce and place the container in a well-lit place, but avoid direct contact with sun rays. As the soil dries out, additional watering is carried out. 
The second method involves using a special one, and is suitable if you intend to grow the flower in large quantities. There are simple greenhouses, and there are those equipped with a heating system.
They are quite easy to use. The tray is filled, then it is moistened, and it is planted on top. After this, everything is covered with a lid and watered from time to time until the sprouts take root. 
The third method is the least expensive. It will only require plastic bags. He is relatively young, his distinctive feature is that cellophane does not allow moisture to evaporate.
Before planting the cuttings, you should fill any bag with light soil, water it thoroughly and tightly wrap the edge of the bag with rope. Then holes are made in its upper part with a knife and cuttings are planted in them. The number of cuttings planted directly depends on the size of the package.
IN ordinary life, such a flower is often called geranium, only this unusual geranium- royal. Characteristic feature from a simple geranium is the presence of a large cap of flowers of a wide variety of colors.
The flower looks like pansies, since dark inclusions are clearly visible in the middle along with light petals, but the leaves themselves are no different from ordinary geraniums.
Royal pelargonium blooms from the very beginning of spring until late autumn, indoor plant, heat-loving. The flower does not need special care; it is only important to water it once a week.
The plant propagates by cuttings. Varieties of this plant quite a lot, each of them has a unique color, leaf size, and flower shape.
Care
When growing pelargonium at home in a bowl, you need to provide it good conditions to make her happy beautiful flowers all summer. The plant is comfortable in a room with enough air, the main thing is that there are no drafts.
In the summer, gardeners love to plant Pelargonium on the terrace in beautiful bowls. You can decorate your flower beds with such a flower by first planting it in bowls that are placed near other plants.
Provide sufficient watering Pelargonium is also necessary. Excess moisture the plant does not like it, flooding the soil with large amounts of water is unacceptable; watering should be carried out as the soil dries out. If you pour a large amount of water on a flower, mold will form, the flower may get sick and soon die.
Leaving Pelargonium on open terrace, you need to make sure that the sun does not fall on it all day; the plant needs moderate shading. It is necessary to limit pelargonium from rain. It is watered twice a day in the summer; in winter, one watering per day is enough.
The temperature in which Pelargonium feels great and blooms profusely should vary from 18 to 26 degrees.
From the end of October to mid-May, Pelargonium is in a state of sleep; there is no need to touch the ground or irrigate it.
Before dormancy, it is necessary to remove dried leaves and tired shoots, this will provide a greater flow of nutrients and oxygen.
During the flowering period, the soil must be fertilized with minerals. This should not be done during the rest period. Lush flowers can be found on young shoots, more mature shoots do not produce such beauty, they just quickly stretch upward.
Reproduction
The flower is propagated by cuttings. At the beginning of summer, the tops of the stems are cut off. Place them in a jar of water. After some time, they will sprout, after which Pelargonium is planted in the ground.
Can't be allowed high humidity in the soil, this leads to the death of the flower. Two days before transplanting the cuttings into the soil, you need to remove them from the jar and dry them a little to avoid excessive moisture.
Landing
To plant Pelargonium in a pot, you need to mix ordinary soil with peat, or purchase ready soil in the shop.
After preparing the soil in a bowl, it must be moistened, then planted. You cannot plant a flower in dry soil; in this case, you need to water the soil around the edges, without getting on the roots.
Planting cuttings is quite convenient way, as the plant takes root quickly. At the beginning of the flower's germination in the ground, there is no need to water it much.
A month after planting in the ground, Pelargonium is placed in the sun, not for the whole day, just for a couple of hours. This method perfectly prepares the plant for flowering outdoors.
Pelargonium is replanted quite easily, you just need to carefully remove the plant from the bowl, shake off the old soil, and then place it in new soil. The flower needs to be replanted in the spring, like most indoor plants.
Pests
A disease such as “black leg” can harm the flower. In this case, the stems begin to turn black close to the ground. It is necessary to eliminate this in a timely manner, since soon the blackness will cover the entire plant.
Pelargonium can also become covered with rust; it appears on the leaves; rust, as a rule, does not affect the flowers.
Pelargonium is an unpretentious plant, with proper care will delight you with lush beautiful flowers all sunny summer.
Photo of royal pelarnogia
Royal pelargonium is a flower that can easily be grown at home. It is often confused with geranium. The main difference between pelargonium and geranium is that the latter has all the petals same size. The care and propagation of this plant is quite simple.
Royal pelargonium: plant features
Besides the fact that a flower has petals different shapes(the lower 3 petals are longer than the upper 2), it has several main features:
- The flowers of this plant reach 15 cm in diameter.
- Variety of colors. Today there is a wide variety of colors of this type.
- The size and number of flowers depends not only on timely watering, but also lighting. This factor must be taken into account when planning plant care.
- The flowering period of this plant lasts much less than that of other species. In addition, the plant may not bloom at all if you choose the wrong care for this flower.
- You can grow pelargonium both in the garden or on the balcony, and at home. It is worth noting that growing a flower on a windowsill is the safest and most comfortable for the plant, since it is sensitive to soil and air humidity.
Flower propagation also occurs in a special way. In order to know how to care for this plant, you need to know the basic favorable conditions for his existence.
How to propagate and transplant pelargoniums?
It is recommended to replant pelargonium at least once every 2-3 years. When too frequent transplantation The flowering of the plant will slow down. Optimal time for transplantation - spring. It is worth noting that during this same period it is advisable to carry out reproduction.
The note! When replanting a flower, it is also necessary to trim the shoots and remove dry leaves and stems.
It is necessary to replant pelargonium into a small pot where the roots will be a little cramped. It is advisable to prune and replant pelargonium for the first time in the fall. During this period, weak shoots need to be pruned. In spring, dry leaves are removed from the stems and the shoots are pruned. This must be done so that the flower grows faster. Pelargonium stops pruning 6-7 weeks before flowering.
Reproduction (cuttings) of pelargoniums
- Propagation by cuttings begins with cutting off stems 7-11 cm long. After which the cuttings are planted in the ground.
Important! The stems should be planted in the ground after they have been left in the open air for 2-4 hours. As soil, it is necessary to use a mixture containing peat and sand in equal proportions.
- In order for the stems to take root, you need to put a plastic bag on the pot with the cuttings.
- It is necessary to water the soil in the pot with cuttings periodically, maintaining constant humidity.
- After independent roots appear in the plant, it can be transplanted into a separate pot.
Thus, replanting a plant with cuttings at home is quite simple.
Secrets of rooting geraniums
Diseases
If you don't know why your plant isn't blooming? Or why strange spots appear on it and it dies, make sure that the flower is properly cared for.
The main common manifestation of plant disease is rotting of the root and drying of the lower leaves of the plant. In order to protect a flower while it is blooming, it is necessary to provide it good care, accompanied by sufficient light and water.
Usually, yellow leaves appear on the plant when it blooms insufficient watering, as well as when exposed to direct sunlight.
A large amount of water can lead to dropsy or rotting of the root.
Based on the above, you can determine why your pet is not blooming. Remember, flowering depends on how well you care for the flower.
And a little about the author’s secrets
Have you ever experienced unbearable joint pain? And you know firsthand what it is:
- inability to move easily and comfortably;
- discomfort when going up and down stairs;
- unpleasant crunching, clicking not of your own accord;
- pain during or after exercise;
- inflammation in the joints and swelling;
- causeless and sometimes unbearable aching pain in the joints...
Now answer the question: are you satisfied with this? Can such pain be tolerated? How much money have you already wasted on ineffective treatment? That's right - it's time to end this! Do you agree? That is why we decided to publish an exclusive interview with Oleg Gazmanov, in which he revealed the secrets of getting rid of joint pain, arthritis and arthrosis.
Attention, TODAY only!
Royal geranium is known to houseplant enthusiasts as "Royal Pelargonium" and is famous for its capriciousness. Country of origin - South America, and therefore pelargonium is accustomed to a hot climate with moist air. Rules for caring for it at home can be found on this page. The classic royal geranium is a flower or a small dense bush with branching stems. The leaf shape is round, with slightly lobed edges and a characteristic geranium scent. The flowers look like spherical umbrellas, the stems are thin and long. Their color depends on the variety: from snow-white to dark purple. At home, royal geranium grows up to 50 cm. With proper care, it will bloom from early spring to late summer. Look at the photo of royal geranium varieties intended for indoor breeding:
How to plant royal geraniums correctly
All varieties of pelargonium or royal geranium are propagated by cuttings. It is recommended to prune them in summer or autumn; you need to cut the stem at an angle of 45 degrees just below the internodes. Lower leaves and the buds also need to be removed. Before properly planting royal geranium, you need to prepare high-quality cuttings and soil with suitable properties. Cuttings need special care. For example, they cannot be placed in water - due to high humidity they can quickly rot. Experts recommend simply sprinkling the cut with a mixture of the drug “Kornevina” and charcoal, after which “dry” the plant for at least an hour. For the first planting, a small diameter pot is suitable, on the bottom of which you need to place a layer of shards - this will ensure sufficient drainage. For planting royal geraniums it is suitable as store soil for ornamental plants, and the usual mixture of sand and peat in a 1:1 ratio. Can be used for rooting peat tablets: they are soaked for a few minutes in warm water. A recess is made in the center of the tablet into which the stem is inserted. After from drainage hole roots will appear, the cuttings can be transplanted into a pot. After planting, you need to water the soil along the edge so that the substrate is not too wet. Cuttings root quickly, the first shoots usually form within 4 weeks. After this, you can increase watering slightly, but you still need to avoid over-wetting the soil. Only 8 weeks after planting, the young royal geranium can be cared for as an adult plant. After rooting, the geranium is planted in regular soil on a compost basis.
Young royal geranium grows quite actively; over time, roots will begin to appear from the drainage hole of the flower pot. This - sure sign that the plant needs replanting. Typically, mature geraniums need to be transplanted into new ground every two years. During replanting, it is worth cutting thick shoots and roots by half, and carefully shaking off the old soil from the rhizome. Earth in flower pot- completely update. If the replanting pot is reused, it should be disinfected special solution(bleach will do). 
Caring for royal geraniums at home
Caring for royal geraniums at home is not at all difficult and any gardener can handle it. Despite the fact that pelargonium is a moisture-loving plant, excessive watering can lead to diseases and infections, so it is important to adhere to certain rules glaze. For an adult bush, 50 ml of water per watering is enough; the soil should not be too wet. In winter, it is enough to water the royal geranium once a day, in the summer - twice: before 10 am and in the evening after the sun is no longer scorching.
As a top dressing, you can use a weak solution of iodine: one drop per 1 liter of water. A small amount (about 50 ml) is poured over the walls of the pot. Be extremely careful: more fertilizing can seriously damage the roots. The plant needs to be fertilized once every two weeks from late March to mid-November. Ideal temperature for keeping a royal pelargonium flower it ranges from +18 to +25 degrees. Rise and fall in temperature, drafts and dry air from a heater can quickly destroy a plant. In the summer, royal geraniums can be taken out to the balcony, but it is important to ensure that they are not exposed to direct sunlight - burns may occur. The plant loves light, but at the same time it needs shade. To provoke active bud formation, in winter geraniums can be placed in a cool, well-lit place. 
In general, from October to March there is a sleepy period for royal geraniums. The ideal temperature at this time is about +15 degrees, care can be limited only to watering. Before the sleepy period, it is better to remove flowers, buds and cut off 1/3 of the shoots. It is recommended to remove faded flowers - they have already lost their beauty, and it is only in vain that they take away the strength of the plant. In addition, it stimulates active growth new colors. They can be removed after they have appeared on the petals. brown spots. But you should remove flowers if you do not need pelargonium seeds - seed setting occurs in the inflorescences. 
Variety of varieties of royal pelargonium and their photos
The genus Pelargonium includes more than 280 various types plants, the most common variety is the royal geranium. Popular varieties include large-flowered pelargoniums (Angels group) or violas. The flowers of these varieties are similar to pansies, the upper petals are somewhat larger than the small ones, and there are veins on the petals. Below are the most popular varieties royal pelargonium and their photos - the variety of species is simply not possible to present in one article. Candy Flowers - these varieties belong to the grandiflora pelargonium. Breeders have developed a group of varieties by crossing two types of pelargonium, which is intended for cultivation on open ground. The peculiarity of this variety is that it blooms earlier, the flowers are larger than those of the “Angels” group.
Radiant pelargonium (Pelargonium fulgidum) is a tall, bushy pelargonium that is slightly smaller in size than the royal pelargonium. The main difference is the more deeply dissected leaves with a pungent spicy odor. The flowers are without fragrance; the predominant color of the flowers of this variety of pelargonium is red. 
Possible problems with royal geraniums
With proper care, royal geraniums rarely get sick, but some possible problems may even touch experienced flower growers. Rotting of the plant stem is most often caused by overwatering. If the flower has already begun to rot, it cannot be helped, and the best thing to do is to remove the affected plant as soon as possible. Not only the geranium itself is quickly affected, but also the soil in which it is located, so the soil will have to be thrown away. Pests can also attack royal geranium: aphids, mites, whiteflies. If this has affected your plant, the underside of the affected leaves must be washed with tobacco infusion with green soap or regular infusion pharmaceutical chamomile. In order to get rid of whiteflies, you can use special medications (“Fufafon”, “Aktellik”, “Bison”). Leaves are often the first sign of problems. If they turn yellow and the edges of the flower are dry, this is a signal of a lack of moisture. Yellowing leaves are a warning that the geranium is not getting enough light or space in the pot. If the leaves wither, then perhaps you have over-moistened the soil. If the time has come for flowering, but the geranium has not bloomed, you need to urgently determine the problem, otherwise flowering may be inhibited in the future. Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom? This may be due to lack of light, low temperature(below +10), the soil may be too fertile, or the pot may be too large. In addition, the reason may be untimely pruning royal geraniums. Sometimes geraniums can be susceptible to “rust”, during which brown or yellow spots. Shoots and flowers may also be damaged. It is important to monitor the condition of the plant and remove diseased parts as soon as possible. Remember: if the plant is sick, it is better to wait to reproduce. Problems can quickly spread to cuttings.
In general, the plant is not whimsical, it reproduces well, grows and does not create any problems for its owners. To make royal geranium pleasing to the eye, you must follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners who will help protect pelargonium from problems. - Provide the plant with good drainage and adequate lighting.
- You should not use fertilizing too actively: it is better to underfeed than to overfeed.
- Remove diseased plants promptly and never reuse soil.
- Water geraniums only when the soil really needs it.