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Tatyana Nikorovich 05.22.2015 | 11853
Hydrangea is one of those few garden plants that can decorate shaded areas of the garden and safely overwinter in open ground. But why start getting to know her?
These unpretentious shrubs delight with abundant colorful flowering from the second half of July until the first autumn frosts. However, in order for your plant to be strong and healthy, it is important to take care of this even when purchasing. The correct choice of seedling is very important.
Types and varieties of hydrangeas for the middle zone
Of the huge number of species (and there are up to 80 of them), the most suitable for growing in the middle zone are:
- tree hydrangeas (varieties Annabelle(Annabelle) Incrediball(Incrediball) and Grandiflora(Grandiflora)),
- paniculate (Vanilla Frazee(Vanille Fraise) Phantom(Phantom) Weems Red(Wims Red)),
- large-leaved (Teller Blue(Teller Blue) Expression(Expression), Red Sensation(Red Sensation)).
If you want to choose a hydrangea with a certain flower color, then it is best to buy the plant during the flowering period.
How to choose the right hydrangea seedlings
In spring, hydrangeas are sold as bare-root seedlings and in pots. Healthy seedling has at least two shoots and a healthy root system without the slightest sign of mold. When putting up seedlings for sale, sellers can remove the whitish coating from the roots, so if you smell mold, you should avoid purchasing. Please also note that all roots must be moist and in no case overdried.
Buying seedlings in pots, remove the plant along with the earthen lump from the pot and check in the same way as specimens with an open root system.
Hydrangea seedlings purchased and planted in the spring take root and grow stronger throughout the summer, as a result of which they can easily survive the winter.
On sale from mid-June blooming hydrangeas in containers. A healthy specimen should have bright green and elastic leaves. If they are slightly wilted or have a brownish tint, this may indicate infection with bacteriosis. You cannot buy such a plant even if the inflorescences look healthy and bloom beautifully.
Rules for planting hydrangeas in the garden
The best time to plant hydrangea is early May. If you are planting several bushes, you should consider the size of the plant as an adult. Usually planting pits dig at a distance of 150 cm from each other, 50x50 cm in size and 50 cm deep. Each hole is filled with a mixture of turf soil, humus and peat in equal proportions.
Before boarding The roots of hydrangea seedlings are slightly shortened, and the shoots are pruned, leaving up to 5 buds. Plants are placed so that the root collar is located at soil level. After landing hydrangeas are watered abundantly and mulched with peat. In order for the hydrangea bush to grow and strengthen, the first inflorescences that appear are removed.
Plants, bought in the summer, during the flowering period, they are planted in open ground using the transshipment method, together with a clod of earth, making sure that the root system is not injured. The planted hydrangea bush is shaded, protecting the tender young leaves from exposure to direct sunlight, and is also watered regularly.
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So, you have purchased the seedling you dreamed of. Or you didn’t dream, but love came at first sight - and here you have it. We are trying to figure out how to save it.
Where to store seedlings?
The optimal storage temperature with roots packed in peat soil and wrapped in polyethylene is approximately 2-3 degrees Celsius. These are the conditions that exist in the vegetable compartment of household refrigerators. If you bought several seedlings, then you need to take them out of the elegant box (this is necessary to save space), check whether each seedling is labeled, and put them in this compartment of your refrigerator. The boxes can be stored separately; they will come in handy when planting, as they contain all the information about the seedlings. Some sites recommend completely wrapping the seedling in a plastic bag to prevent moisture evaporation. I believe that this is useless, since evaporation at this temperature is minimal, and the buds and especially the regrown shoots on the seedling with such packaging can smear. Once every 10-20 days you need to check how dry the soil in which the roots of the seedlings are wrapped is. If necessary, remove the top packaging bag and, without removing the inner polyethylene, spill the seedling with cool water. Even better is to immerse it in cool water directly with that inner polyethylene. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the soil does not erode, but only becomes saturated with water. Continue the procedure until the release of air bubbles stops.
After this, repeat everything in reverse order: immerse the seedling in the top bag and carefully tie it with a rubber band to prevent evaporation from the roots. Place the seedling in the refrigerator.
A very good way is to store seedlings in a snowdrift. Of course, we need to take action against mice. In general, storage in snow is ideal for seedlings with unripened buds. The snow temperature at a depth of 20-30 cm is about 1-2 degrees below zero. There is no evaporation under such conditions. Before storing, the seedling is treated with fungicides (Prophylactic or Prestige) and cooled to 1-2 degrees Celsius. Then the seedling is wrapped in several layers of paper, packed in a kraft bag and in thick polyethylene. Paper in several layers creates an air layer to prevent damping and to enhance thermostatic characteristics. Polyethylene will protect from excess moisture. You can put some rodenticide (anti-mouse) product inside the plastic wrap. Place the packed seedlings in the snow and cover them with a layer of snow, choosing the most shaded place on the site for this. This method is good if there are a lot of seedlings and (or) they are quite large and you can’t count on a refrigerator.
Some experienced gardeners manage to build a similar snowdrift on their balcony. And they perfectly preserve any amount of living material until planting.
Storage in the cellar will be no worse. But in this case, before planting in the cellar, the seedlings must be cooled to 2-3 degrees Celsius, treated with fungicides, packaged in paper and polyethylene, after which they can be lowered into the cellar.
If the seedling has large sprouts, then it can be planted in a pot and cared for like a houseplant. The only condition is to create conditions with low temperature and high illumination. Moreover, if the sprouts on the seedling are pale, then high illumination is excluded for 2-3 weeks. The sprouts should turn green. More often it happens that the sprouts turn black and fall off on their own. For example, on roses, it is recommended to break them off yourself. There is no need to be afraid of this. All plants have a 2-fold and even 3-fold supply of buds in case of spring vagaries of nature. The main thing is not to overheat, overwater or dry out the seedling.
The most stable and unpretentious seedling is. It can be stored in any of the following ways. In addition, it grows well as an indoor plant. Just when replanting, select a deeper pot so that the sun does not illuminate the soil in the pot itself - and it will successfully wait until it is planted, and will even grow quite well.
When and how to plant seedlings?
Now let’s figure out when you can plant a seedling. Of course, everything depends on the weather, which not only we, but also weather forecasters and meteorologists do not undertake to predict in our recommendations. I always feel uncomfortable with advice like “plant on April 12” or “May 5”. The earth needs to thaw and warm up.
You need to dig a planting hole in accordance with the recommendations for this type of seedlings. Naturally, when planting an apple or pear tree, it will be a large hole, up to 1 m deep. If the soil is still frozen at depth, leave the hole dug to warm up. It will stand in this form for 5-6, or 10 days - and the soil will be saturated with moisture from the rains and warm up in all layers. Next – in our way, “agronomically”: fertilizers, compost, humus, spillage...
How to preserve roots and bulbs?
Now - to the attention of those who need to preserve not only seedlings, but also perennials. In this case, storage at negative temperatures is excluded. Refrigerated storage will be preferable, although some homes have such beautiful cellars that this method will work. Storage in a cellar, which may leak from groundwater or is contaminated with mold, is excluded. In any case, treatment with fungicides against molds and diseases will not be superfluous. Some bulbs are affected by thrips. This is especially true for gladioli. Here treatment with insecticides against this scourge will also be necessary. A very good effect is achieved by generously dusting gladioli with dolomite flour or slaked lime. Here you need to ensure that you and your household are not harmed when storing the bulbs. All treatments must be done in a separate room or outdoors. Fortunately, now there are often days with above-zero temperatures.
Many roots and rhizomes can be planted in pots. This is especially true for such “sissies” as delphiniums, aconites, and gravilats. Such planting is very desirable for daylilies and hostas. They have time to get stronger before planting in the ground and quickly acquire a good appearance. By the way, hosta leaves grown in poor lighting conditions have an uncharacteristic color. Only after planting in a permanent place does the hosta display all the stripes and other decorations required for this variety.
When to plant bulbs and roots?
The timing of planting perennial plants in the ground varies so much that this is the subject of a separate discussion. I suggest you carefully study the information on the packaging and read the literature on growing these perennial crops. Naturally, perennials that overwinter in the ground in our conditions: phlox, irises, peonies, hostas, daylilies, lilies, etc. can be planted early, after the ground has thawed to a depth of 1 m. To speed up this process, you can use the method outlined higher. Namely, dig a planting trench or hole and let it warm up.
Perennials that are removed from the site for storage for the winter - gladioli, dahlias - are planted after the soil warms up to 12-14 degrees. This is approximately during the potato planting period, only a week later. Another sign (if there are no potato grower neighbors who know the planting dates) is the flowering of coltsfoot or even dandelion.
Some perennials require planting in a pot. For example, canna can be planted directly in the ground, but then you may not wait for it to bloom. It is better to plant it in a pot in March and keep it as a houseplant. The same goes for begonia and gloxinia. These beauties also require early potting and are transferred to the ground or containers after the threat of frost has passed.
A separate question about “tailed” lilies. This is very common: in a store they offer you a lily with a long “shoot”-peduncle. There's nothing wrong with that. Naturally, the store is warm and optimal storage parameters are violated. You can do this:
- Before planting, store the lily along with the shoot in the refrigerator. When planting, place it horizontally and deepen it by 20-25 cm, which will promote the formation of additional roots and rapid growth.
- if the shoot is too long, you should break it off and plant the lily as usual. In this case, you sacrificed the first (by the way, very weak and, dare I say it, miserable) flowering. By saving effort on forcing the flower, your lily will take root well and will soon delight you with beautiful blooms.
Good luck to all our customers and readers!
You can view our catalog.
Hydrangea is considered a winter-hardy species. Breeders and authors of varieties claim that the plant can withstand temperatures from -20 to -30 degrees Celsius. A considerable amount of positive experience has been accumulated in growing exotic elegant shrubs. In the conditions of the North-West, the Urals, not to mention the Moscow region, even uninsulated specimens winter well.
At the same time, the sad practice of many hydrangea lovers suggests: the bush often freezes in relatively warm weather - only 15-20 below zero. Similar incidents occur in the southern regions, even in the Black Sea region. Probably, every case of plant death is caused by objective reasons. This article may be useful to those who want to understand the problem and achieve results.
Different varieties, same problem
The literature provides various methods for insulating hydrangeas. Some operations need to be performed for all types, some - only for certain varieties.
There is a difference between types of hydrangeas. For example, large-leaved plants have a longer growing season. In addition, garden microphylla lays a flower bud in September, paniculate hydrangea in March-April. In the first case, the gardener must take measures to protect the tops of the shoots from frost burns. In the second, it is enough to insulate the stems and root system: if at least one branch survives the winter, the plant will bloom.
But the reason given is just a special case. The example does not explain why shrubs of the same variety have different frost resistance.
Perhaps it's about relationships. Hydrangea grows to decorate: most of its flowers are sterile. .jpg)
The shrub is wasteful: it spends too much energy on vigorous, long-lasting flowering. Sometimes there are no left for development. If we immediately succumb to the charms of hydrangea and forget about tomorrow’s winter, we will face a problem: we insulated, but it didn’t work out. Why?
- Probably because our bushes are weak.
- It is possible that the shoots are abundant, but the roots are frail.
- Or vice versa: the root system is powerful, but the foliage is scanty.
Ripened stems overwinter well. This means that the plant must have sufficient energy to develop, gain strength and bloom.
Why does hydrangea freeze?
The reasons may be subtle. Here are examples.
The landing site was chosen in a lowland - and the cold flows there. Or vice versa: a bush crowns the top of a windy hill.
- Perhaps you have placed organic matter under the root, but for some reason the worms process it into humus. After all, it is known that plants do not absorb nutrients from undecomposed manure well.
- The composition and amount of mulch affects the survival rate: the roots of the flowers are close to the soil surface. They can partially freeze out in snowless winters.
- Does the composition of the fertilizer correspond to the stage of plant development: excess nitrogen provokes shoot growth, potassium and phosphorus contribute to the absorption of calcium and lignification of trunks. Disproportion generates imbalance in development.
Based on our experience, in this article we will try to:
Highlight all the necessary preparatory stages for pre-winter flower care;
Determine the list of activities at each stage;
Evaluate their effectiveness.
As a result, you yourself will choose which methods to use to insulate the hydrangea.
General care rules for all types of hydrangeas
The frost resistance of garden hydrangeas depends on two reasons:
From the ability of the roots to provide the bush with sufficient nutrients;
From the vitality of the shoots, the strength of the structure of the branches.
From the first day of the appearance of a young seedling, the florist continuously solves the primary problem - how to create the most favorable environment for the bush for development and subsequent wintering, during which the hydrangea will not freeze out.
Seven facets: factors for successful hydrangea care
In order for a luxuriously flowering bush to not freeze in the cold winter, you need to not only think through ways to cover the hydrangea, but also create in advance optimal conditions for the growth and ripening of shoots. .jpg)
1. Location of the bush - where there is no draft. A corner near a fence, a windward wall of a barn, a bench, or a decorative garden structure are suitable.
2. Illumination - light shading. The best place is where the sun is before noon.
3. Access to moisture. Hydrangea loves abundant watering. It is planted 1.5-2 m from fruit trees, otherwise there will be too much competition for moisture.
4. The soil is nutritious, slightly acidic, with a fairly loose, but not sandy structure - useful substances should not be washed out. The best place for macrophila from the nursery is the edge of the compost pit.
5. Adaptation of the root system. The roots in the nursery are accustomed to receiving an abundance of high-calorie substrate. Depleted garden soil does not stimulate secondary petioles to develop well. In order for the system to grow, the hole is widened, making it more than 50 cm. The soil structure is modified:
To improve permeability, crushed stone and sand are added;
To increase nutritional value - peat, dry leaves, humus, fertilizers.
6. Hardening and training of stems during the first three years using special agricultural technology:
The young seedling grows freely in the first summer: broken, crooked branches growing inward are preserved.
For the winter they put it in the cellar. The underground is an optimal environment: a stable temperature of 5-7°C, complete calm.
In March, the pot with a one-year-old plant is returned indoors. When the leaves bloom - at the end of June or beginning of July, the stems are trimmed: they stimulate the growth of shoots and the development of roots.
The following year the procedure is repeated;
In the third year, after the May-June frosts, hydrangea is planted in the ground.
7. Feeding the bushes with fertilizers in digestible form. Since fresh mullein is poisonous for the plant, if you lack experience, it is better to avoid adding manure. It can be successfully replaced by rotted grass from the year before last, forest litter, or the best option - vermicompost. Dilute the mixture with 100 g of superphosphate - this complex will be enough for complete nutrition.
Proper nutrition is the key to successful wintering of hydrangeas
The roots are responsible for filling the stems with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen is a building material for proteins. Cells of shoots, fruits, leaf mass, all this is protein. Calcium and potassium are substances responsible for the protection of protein cells, the strength of cell walls and connective tissue. Phosphorus promotes the absorption of minerals and trace elements.
The soil needs more than just nutrition. At different times, a given composition of fertilizing is required. In the early period - when ripening, the plant is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. In autumn, hydrangea is fertilized with phosphates and potassium.
Signs of abundance of each substance are determined by the color of the leaves:
- Yellowed foliage - nitrogen is needed. Urea and saltpeter are introduced into the diet.
- Turquoise leaves - add superphosphate.
- There is a slowdown in growth, a light border appears at the edges of the foliage - feed with potassium chloride or sulfate. Complex fertilizer - Potassium humate.
Preparing (pruning) hydrangea for wintering
.jpg)
The leaves on the stems are trimmed. It is better not to touch the inflorescences - in the spring they can be removed before the first flowering bud. The same can be said about radical molding. If the plant is too thick, you can carry out sanitary treatment - remove diseased, weak shoots.
However, the final decision - to cut or not to cut - remains with the owner. The next pruning will be possible only in late spring, when green mass appears.
Choosing a method of insulation for hydrangeas, taking into account the basics of winter heat exchange
Options for covering bushes are different. These can be digging holes, tubes, canopies. With any method of wintering hydrangeas in the garden, at least two layers of insulation are used.
- The first, mandatory layer must cover the roots. Located on the surface, they need good insulation. A mound of peat and compost 8-10 cm thick is the most suitable thermal protection.
- The second layer is snow. It has been proven that the fluffy white mass is the best heat insulator. The temperature on the soil surface under the snow canopy is on average 10-13 degrees higher than in the atmosphere. In most cases, the soil cools down to only 5-10°C. Consequently, flower buds will be more comfortable when they are located below the snow cover.
Frost Shields
The following technology for insulating hydrangeas is considered the most effective and least labor-intensive.
Wooden shields with protruding pegs along the edges are laid on one or both sides of the bush.
A straw roller is placed under the base of the bush. The stems are carefully supported on straw and placed on boards.
The shoots are secured - using a cord stretched between pegs, or pinned. You can arrange the shoots in a fan or in a bunch.
Insulation is poured - straw, leaves, peat; cover the entire structure with non-woven material. Fixed with another shield.
Digging in a hole
They dig a trench next to the flower. The hydrangea is dug up, placed in a hole, covered with a box, and covered with turf and straw. A shield is laid over the pit and covered with a vapor-permeable film. They press down with oppression - bricks, logs.
Frames
For tall climbing species, frames are made. This method is suitable for frost-resistant climbing or tall varieties. Allows you to maintain the temperature of the bush at ambient levels. Otherwise, trunks containing moisture will be additionally cooled due to its evaporation - by 3°-5° relative to the air. This method is absolutely not suitable for garden large-leaf hydrangea.
Pruning hydrangea according to Tim Bebel - for guaranteed flowering after winter
The innovative method, discovered by an American florist, is gaining popularity every year. He suggests pre-winter pruning of hydrangeas in the summer so that the flower buds have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. The essence of the technology is simple.
In July, non-flowering stems are shortened to the lowest lateral bud. In this way, the formation of flower buds on the shoots and in the underground part of the plant is stimulated.
The remaining stems are cut off in October - only by a third of the length. The result is a compact bush that is easy to insulate. These are the ones that bloom with a 100% guarantee.
Shrubs formed using this method require intensive feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers - from spring to August - for active growth of shoots.
Beautiful hydrangea flowers. And unpretentious. They decorate gardens with a luxurious, bright variety, but in return they demand... attention. Agree: it’s difficult to call the usual human attitude towards a flower “care.”
Hydrangea is considered a winter-hardy species. Breeders and authors of varieties claim that the plant can withstand temperatures from -20 to -30 degrees Celsius. A considerable amount of positive experience has been accumulated in growing exotic elegant shrubs. In the conditions of the North-West, the Urals, not to mention the Moscow region, even uninsulated specimens winter well.
At the same time, the sad practice of many hydrangea lovers suggests that the bush often freezes in relatively warm weather - only 15-20 below zero. Similar incidents occur in the southern regions, even in the Black Sea region. Probably, every case of plant death is caused by objective reasons. This article may be useful to those who want to understand the problem and achieve results.
Different varieties, same problem
The literature provides various methods for insulating hydrangeas. Some operations need to be performed for all types, some only for certain varieties.
There is a difference between the types of hydrangeas. For example, large-leaved plants have a longer growing season. In addition, garden microphylla lays a flower bud in September, paniculate hydrangea in March-April. In the first case, the gardener must take measures to protect the tops of the shoots from frost burns. In the second, it is enough to insulate the stems and root system: if at least one branch survives the winter, the plant will bloom.
But the reason given is just a special case. The example does not explain why shrubs of the same variety have different frost resistance.
Perhaps it's about relationships. Hydrangea grows to decorate: most of its flowers are sterile. The shrub is wasteful: it spends too much energy on vigorous, long-lasting flowering. Sometimes there are no left for development. If we immediately succumb to the charms of hydrangea and forget about tomorrow’s winter, we will face a problem: we insulated, but it didn’t work out. Why?
- Probably because our bushes are weak.
- It is possible that the shoots are abundant, but the roots are frail.
- Or vice versa: the root system is powerful, but the foliage is scanty.
Well-ripened stems overwinter. This means that the plant must have sufficient energy to develop, gain strength and bloom.
Why does hydrangea freeze?
The reasons may be subtle. Here are examples.
The place chosen for planting is in the lowlands - and the cold flows there. Or vice versa: a bush crowns the top of a windy hill.
- Perhaps you have placed organic matter under the root, but for some reason the worms process it into humus. After all, it is known that plants do not absorb nutrients from undecomposed manure well.
- The composition and amount of mulch affects the survival rate: the roots of the flowers are close to the soil surface. B They can partially freeze out during a snowless winter.
- Does the composition of the fertilizer correspond to the stage of plant development: excess nitrogen provokes shoot growth, potassium and phosphorus contribute to the absorption of calcium and lignification of trunks. Disproportion generates imbalance in development.
Based on our experience, in this article we will try to:
- highlight all the necessary preparatory stages for pre-winter flower care;
- determine a list of activities at each stage;
- evaluate their effectiveness.
As a result, you yourself will choose which methods to use to insulate the hydrangea.
General care rules for all types of hydrangeas
The frost resistance of garden hydrangeas depends on two reasons:
- on the ability of the roots to provide the bush with sufficient nutrients;
- on the vitality of the shoots, the strength of the structure of the branches.
From the first day of the appearance of a young seedling, the florist continuously solves the primary problem - how to create the most favorable environment for the development of the shrub and subsequent wintering, during which the hydrangea will not freeze out.
Seven facets: factors for successful hydrangea care
In order for a luxuriously flowering bush to not freeze in the cold winter, you need to not only think through ways to cover the hydrangea, but also create in advance optimal conditions for the growth and ripening of shoots.
1. Location of the bush - where there is no draft. Suitable for a corner of a fence, a windward wall of a barn, a bench, or a decorative garden structure.
2. Lighting – light shading. The best place is where the sun is before noon.
3. Access to moisture. Hydrangea loves abundant watering. It is planted 1.5–2 m from fruit trees, otherwise there will be too much competition for moisture.
4. The soil is nutritious, slightly acidic, with a fairly loose, but not sandy structure - useful substances should not be washed out. The best place for macrophila from the nursery is the edge of the compost pit.
5. Adaptation of the root system. The roots in the nursery are accustomed to receiving an abundance of high-calorie substrate. Depleted garden soil does not stimulate secondary petioles to develop well. In order for the system to grow, the hole is widened, making it more than 50 cm. The soil structure is modified:
- to improve permeability, crushed stone and sand are added;
- to increase nutritional value - peat, dry leaves, humus, fertilizers.
6. Hardening and training of stems during the first three years using special agricultural technology:
- the young seedling grows freely in the first summer: broken, crooked branches growing inward are preserved.
- For the winter they put it in the cellar. The underground is an optimal environment: a stable temperature of 5–7°C, complete calm.
- in March, the pot with a one-year-old plant is returned indoors. When the leaves bloom - at the end of June or beginning of July, the stems are trimmed: they stimulate the growth of shoots and the development of roots.
- the next year the procedure is repeated;
- in the third year, after the May-June frosts, hydrangea is planted in the ground.
7. Feeding the bushes with fertilizers in an digestible form. Since fresh mullein is poison for the plant, if you lack experience, it is better to avoid adding manure. It can be successfully replaced by rotted grass from the year before last, forest litter, or the best option - vermicompost. Dilute the superphosphate mixture with 100 g - this complex will be enough for complete nutrition.
Proper nutrition is the key to successful wintering of hydrangeas
The roots are responsible for filling the stems with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Nitrogen is a building material for proteins. Cells of shoots, fruits, leaf mass, this is all protein. Calcium and potassium are substances responsible for the protection of protein cells, the strength of cell walls and connective tissue. Phosphorus promotes the absorption of trace elements and minerals.
The soil needs more than just nutrition. At different times, a given composition of fertilizing is required. In the early period - when ripening, the plant is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. In autumn, hydrangea is fertilized with phosphates and potassium.
Signs of abundance of each substance are determined by the color of the leaves:
- Yellowed foliage – nitrogen is needed. Urea and saltpeter are introduced into the diet.
- Turquoise leaves - add superphosphate.
- There is a slowdown in growth, a light border appears at the edges of the foliage - feed with potassium chloride or sulfate. Complex fertilizer – Potassium humate.
Preparing (pruning) hydrangea for wintering
The leaves on the stems are trimmed. It is better not to touch the inflorescences - in the spring they can be removed before the first flowering bud. The same can be said about radical molding. If the plant is too thick, you can carry out sanitary treatment - remove diseased, weak shoots. However, the final decision whether to cut or not to cut remains with the owner. The next pruning will be possible only in late spring, when green mass appears.
Choosing a method of insulation for hydrangeas, taking into account the basics of winter heat exchange
There are different options for covering bushes. These can be digging holes, tubes, canopies. With any method of wintering hydrangeas in the garden, at least two layers of insulation are used.
- The first, mandatory layer must cover the roots. Located on the surface, they need good insulation. A mound of peat and compost 8-10 cm thick is the most suitable thermal protection.
- The second layer is snow. It has been proven that the fluffy white mass is the best heat insulator. The temperature on the soil surface under the snow canopy is on average 10-13 degrees higher than in the atmosphere. In most cases, the soil cools down to only 5–10°C. Consequently, flower buds will be more comfortable when they are located below the snow cover.
Frost Shields
The following technology for insulating hydrangeas is considered the most effective and least labor-intensive.
– Wooden shields with protruding pegs along the edges are laid on one or both sides of the bush.
– Place a straw roller under the base of the bush. The stems are carefully supported on straw and placed on boards.
– The shoots are secured - using a cord stretched between pegs, or pinned. You can arrange the shoots in a fan or in a bunch.
– Add insulation – straw, leaves, peat; the entire structure is covered with non-woven material. Fixed with another shield.
In the digging hole
They dig a trench next to the flower. The hydrangea is dug up, placed in a hole, covered with a box, and covered with turf and straw. A shield is laid over the pit and covered with a vapor-permeable film. They press down with oppression - bricks, logs.
Frames
For tall climbing species, frames are made. This method is suitable for frost-resistant climbing or tall varieties. Allows you to maintain the temperature of the bush at ambient levels. Otherwise, trunks containing moisture will be additionally cooled due to its evaporation - by 3°–5° relative to the air. This method is absolutely not suitable for large-leaved garden hydrangea.
Pruning hydrangea according to Tim Bebel - for guaranteed flowering after winter
The innovative method, discovered by an American florist, is gaining popularity every year. He suggests pre-winter pruning of hydrangeas in the summer so that the flower buds have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. The essence of the technology is simple.
In July, non-flowering stems are shortened to the lowest lateral bud. In this way, the formation of flower buds on the shoots and in the underground part of the plant is stimulated.
The remaining stems are cut off in October - only by a third of the length. The result is a compact bush that is easy to insulate. Such hydrangeas can be grown in the garden - they bloom with a one hundred percent guarantee.
For active growth of shoots, shrubs formed using this method require intensive fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers - from spring until August.
Beautiful hydrangea flowers. And unpretentious. They decorate gardens with their luxurious, bright variety, and in return demand... attention. Agree: it’s difficult to call the usual human attitude towards a flower “care.”
Gardeners often ask the question: “Which ornamental shrubs bloom all summer?” Without hesitation, I can name three of my favorites - the queen rose, the charming cinquefoil and the beautiful hydrangea. Today we are talking about hydrangea. Its luxurious caps of flowers cover the entire bush from June to late autumn, depending on the variety.Species such as tree-like, paniculata and new varieties of large-leaved hydrangea grow and winter well in our climate. Large-leaved hydrangea of the “Endless summer” and “Forever and ever” series are remontant. If the flower buds that these hydrangeas lay in the fall even freeze, you will only lose the first early flowering. The bush will bloom on the shoots of the current year, only a little later. The shrub amazes with its durability and endurance. Hydrangea is undemanding in care and is rarely affected by pests and diseases. Use in landscape design has endless possibilities. But it’s just a miracle how good she is!
The choice of hydrangea varieties is now huge. We invite you to place an order for the ones you like during the winter. Now you can purchase hydrangea seedlings with a closed root system, which you can safely plant in open ground until mid-autumn.
So, the variety has been selected and the seedling has been purchased. We are faced with the question: where and how to plant it so that our beauty becomes the favorite of the garden and delights with lush flowering for a long time. Despite its unpretentiousness, the plant will still require care and attention.
- For planting, choose a sufficiently lit place, but without scorching sun rays, a weakly sunny area. The most shade-tolerant of hydrangeas is tree-like. An “openwork” shade is suitable, which can be provided by hydrangea’s faithful companions - conifers or other shrubs. The distance from them to the seedling is at least 1.5 meters. Otherwise, the hydrangea root system will always need moisture and nutrition, which will be taken away by the powerful roots of the trees. The place should be quiet, windless, where there will be a lot of snow in winter.
- I prepare a planting hole of 50*50 cm. The distance between the bushes is 1.5-2 m. Even though the bush in your pot is not very large, take the trouble to dig a “decent” hole and fill it well. We plant the plant for years!
- When buying a seedling, pay attention to the presence of buds. If they are not there, good! It will take root better and grow the root system faster. Sapling with buds. You can’t raise your hand to trim them. I would like to see flowering in the first year of planting! Then do not suddenly change the growing conditions of the plant. In order for such hydrangeas to bloom magnificently in the future and grow the root system, when planting, the soil in the area of 20-25 cm must be ideally close to the substrate in which the seedling grew in the pot. Avoid sudden changes in soil structure. Water strictly once every 10 days with “Gumistar” fertilizer - an aqueous extract from vermicompost. It is effective when used in the evening, as it contains not only vitamins and amino acids, but also living soil microorganisms (sunlight kills them).
- Soil mixture. Hydrangea is a lover of acidic soil, pH within 5.5 units. If the indicator is 6,7,8 units or more, the plant will always have problems with the absorption of nutrients. As a result, chlorosis of the leaves will begin and the bush will stop developing. I mix garden soil, high-moor peat, rotted pine litter in equal parts, add compost or, better yet, vermicompost. For loosening we use sand, agroperlite, and coconut peat. I prefer finely chopped sphagnum moss or rotted pine bark, which will create an ideal structure for the soil. The soil must be loose, air- and water-permeable, and must not contain alkaline compounds. You cannot add ash, chalk, or lime.
- Translated from Latin hydrangea – hydrangia – a vessel with water. She really likes to drink. In order not to constantly stand over it with a watering can, and this is especially important for those who do not live in the country permanently, I use hydrogel. This is a polymer in granules that can absorb and retain in a swollen state a huge amount of moisture with nutrients dissolved in it (for example, I use “Gumistar” or the drug “Dachnik”). Moisture does not drain into the underlying soil layers and does not evaporate. This allows you to water plants, especially moisture-loving ones, much less frequently. Reduces the loss of nutrients and prevents their leaching from the soil. The gel envelops the roots of the plant and food is always nearby.
- Before planting, I soak the seedling in a solution of the growth stimulator HB-101, 15-20 drops per 10 liters of soft water (for hydrangea we do not use hard water from the tap, we settle it, preferably rain water) until the lump becomes heavy and no longer stands out air bubbles from it. I take out the plants and lightly shake the root system with my hands so that the spores of symbiont fungi from the soil in which the seedling grows quickly settle in the new habitat of the bush.
- I pour a 7-10 cm layer of drainage at the bottom of the planting hole. I place the seedling in the hole and fill it halfway with prepared soil. We water it generously with the solution in which the plant was soaked. This way we will avoid voids. The water has been absorbed, I add soil mixture and compact the soil. I deepen the root collar by 1-2 cm, no more.
- I make a circle around the trunk, where I then pour water until the hydrangea takes root. I spill soil within a radius of 1.5 meters around the seedling. The root system of the shrub is superficial and branched.
- I spread HB-101 granules on the soil in the tree trunk circle, which will work until the fall, providing the plant with excellent immunity.
- Immediately mulch with a layer of up to 10 cm. Mulch is a gardener’s best friend. Protects from drying out, serves as additional nutrition, and prevents fungal and viral diseases. And earthworms love to settle under it. The best mulch for hydrangea is high peat mixed with pine litter in a 1:1 ratio, rotted pine bark. If these materials are not available, mulch not with freshly cut grass, but with “withered” grass so that it does not touch the root collar of the plant. I water the mulch once every 10 days with a solution of Vostok EM-1, 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of non-chlorinated water.
Love your beauty, take care of her and she will respond to you with colorful, lush blooms.
The seedling is planted. How to care for it? We will talk about this in the next article: “Menu for the “Beautiful Lady” of the garden” 
Zoya Maksimenko,
FERTILITY, Chelyabinsk