Oksana, young rose seedlings can sit for a very long time and not grow. Now everything depends on the root system. For example, some bushes purchased in one place were received differently. Sometimes they sit without signs of life until mid-summer, and then you look, the buds are just starting to wake up. All you need here is patience.
If you added fertilizer to the hole when planting, then the first fertilizing can begin a month after planting. What fertilizers exactly? I prefer complex ones. I told Olga about them a little higher in the commentary. Sometimes I alternate liquid (for flowering) or the same diammophoska, azofoska, nitroammophoska: I dilute it in a watering can and water it. Feeding should be done every two weeks. Fertilizers can also be divided according to their main elements: at the beginning of summer, for the growth of shoots, fertilizers containing nitrogen, for example, ammonium nitrate, are needed. During the formation of buds and flowering - until the end of July and the beginning of August, you can use superphosphate or double superphosphate. In autumn, potassium fertilizers are needed, for example, potassium sulfate or potassium sulfate. You can use the most common ash.
I do the last fertilizing with complex fertilizer in early or mid-August, after which both fertilizing and watering stop. The only exception for watering is extreme heat. If there is no intense heat, then watering is not needed. At the end of August - September, roses bloom well.
In the fall, you can feed only pure potassium fertilizers to prepare roses for winter.
Now about aphids: they always appear in early June, when the buds appear on roses. And garden ants carry these aphids to the branches. So you can spray both aphids on the branches and ants on the ground. For treatment, you can use any broad-spectrum insecticides. But I don't take too strong. I have enough actors on the street. You can use Actellik, but the ampoule is small, I only use it for indoor plants.
The rose is mature: if you feed it and water it, but the leaves are still oppressed, then there are either pests, not only those on the branches, but also “underground inhabitants,” or the bush is sick.
When I can’t immediately determine why the bush looks sick, I immediately treat it against pests, and I spray it on top and pour the same solution under the bush so that no one gnaws the roots. Sometimes I carry out these treatments 3-4 times every 7-10 days.
For diseases and rot I use foundationazole, Bordeaux mixture, and Maxim. Sometimes one treatment is enough, sometimes 2-3.
After such an “onslaught,” the roses continue to grow normally.
Oksana, maybe all this will seem a little complicated to you. You can do without all this. In nature, the strongest survive. But then the roses will bloom accordingly: in early June there will be several buds, and in September there will be several buds.
Only with constant feeding and processing will you see what all this was started for.
Hydrangea paniculata and roses Encyclopedia of roses
I have 10 paniculate hydrangeas (9 varieties). so I have experience with them. In terms of varieties, they can be of completely different sizes - from giants (the Finnish variety Mustila and the old variety Grandiflora), wide “square” habit, medium-high and spreading ones like Phantom, Silver Dollar, Vaniya Frez, Lime Light, and there are also quite limited in size - very the beautiful, narrow-looking Winky-Pinky, the new variety of the most maroon-colored Weems Red, and the shortest Bobo. The last three could be combined in mixes with perennials and some varieties of roses. Winky-Pinky and Bobo will go well together in mixborders.
As for their agricultural technology, in my climate all hydrangeas (except for Great Star - and the poorly late-blooming one!) grow in full sun, although partial shade is recommended everywhere. I don’t deoxidize them on purpose; they were planted without being buried in the wettest parts of the site on mounds of brought peat. I feed them twice - with mineral fertilizers for bushes and mulch with horse manure. Generally. meth Hydrangeas are very fond of organic matter, this is their similarity to roses. This is probably where all the similarities end. First of all, in my opinion, what would interfere with the joint growth of roses and hydrangeas is the attitude towards moisture! Almost all of my hydrangeas are planted in such a way that they are not only NOT watered, but, on the contrary, with the aim of draining the nearby area near the rose gardens. But such wet, stagnant places will be very harmful to roses. Secondly, when trying to plan such complex plantings of roses with perennials and bushes, you need to think about the design of shelters. I had an experience when in late autumn I had to be distracted by replanting a four-year-old Ottawa barberry, which interfered with the cover of the roses. As a result, due to the complexity of the work and lack of time, a barberry hole was left near the rose garden, water accumulated, and the nearby roses got wet.
So I can recommend meth. Plant hydrangeas only as a “background” at a sufficient distance from the rose planting line - 1.5 meters.
Hydrangea
Hydrangea in the garden: care and propagation
Author Ziborova E. Yu.
Hortesia, or hydrangea (literally translated from Latin as “a vessel with water”), when the necessary conditions are created - semi-shaded or light location, fertile well-drained soil, abundant watering and protection from frost - generously rewards with its beautiful flowers.
Hydrangea bushes look great in the garden both in groups and in solitary plantings. By targeted formative pruning of a rooted cutting over four seasons, you can grow a standard hydrangea tree.
Hydrangea suffers greatly from drought; Most species of hydrangeas that love partial shade slow down their growth in the sun, and their inflorescences become smaller. Hydrangea does not tolerate trampling - to improve root aeration, it is recommended to loosen the soil surface around the bushes at least 3 times a season to a depth of 5 cm.
Planting of bushes is carried out in early spring or autumn; in regions with a cold climate, and obtained from cuttings, hydrangeas are best planted in the spring. You need to add peat to the planting hole and add mineral and organic fertilizers to the soil. Before planting, the roots are slightly shortened, and during spring planting, annual shoots are also shortened, leaving 3-4 pairs of buds on each. The planted bush is watered abundantly and the soil around it is mulched with peat or rotted leaves.
Regular fertilizing with slurry and fertilizers, combined with abundant watering, promotes the development of large leaves and flowers, but with excessive fertilization, very heavy inflorescences can break hydrangea branches. In adult bushes, inflorescences are pruned in the fall. In young bushes, it is better to cut out inflorescences, as well as weak and frozen shoots in the spring before the buds awaken, and not in the fall. In the spring, annual shoots are also shortened to 3-4 buds - this contributes to better wintering and lushness of the bush. Aging hydrangea bushes are rejuvenated by pruning “to a stump” or perennial wood; they will bloom in the first year after pruning, since hydrangea flowers begin and develop in the year of flowering.
Hydrangeas are propagated by seeds, layering, suckers, dividing bushes, and garden forms - by cuttings and grafting.
In the spring, small hydrangea seeds are sown in cold greenhouses or in boxes under glass without covering them with soil. To water them, it is better to use a sprayer to avoid washing away the seeds. The seedlings are picked into a greenhouse; the seedlings are transplanted into the soil onto a growing bed the following spring.
Green cuttings for propagating hydrangea are harvested in July, using thin elastic branches that thicken the crown. The cuttings are cut as usual (the upper cut is straight, the lower cut is oblique) with 2 internodes, the leaves are shortened by half. The cuttings are planted in a fertile substrate with a top layer of coarse sand in pots, or in a greenhouse under a film. Rooted cuttings are planted on a growing bed in August, or left to overwinter in pots in the basement, periodically moistening the soil, and in the spring they are planted in the ground in a growing bed. It is advisable to keep young plants in a greenhouse or growing bed for 2 years, constantly shading them and moistening the soil.
Flowers appearing on rooted cuttings must be plucked off. In the first year after planting in the ground, young plants are well covered for the winter.
Cuttings of garden forms of hydrangeas grafted onto the roots of the main species develop much faster than when rooted with green cuttings.
Ziborova E. Yu.
Gardenia. ru
So, you have purchased the seedling you dreamed of. Or you didn’t dream, but love came at first sight - and here you have it. We are trying to figure out how to save it.
Where to store seedlings?
The optimal storage temperature with roots packed in peat soil and wrapped in polyethylene is approximately 2-3 degrees Celsius. These are the conditions that exist in the vegetable compartment of household refrigerators. If you bought several seedlings, then you need to take them out of the elegant box (this is necessary to save space), check whether each seedling is labeled, and put them in this compartment of your refrigerator. The boxes can be stored separately; they will come in handy when planting, as they contain all the information about the seedlings. Some sites recommend completely wrapping the seedling in a plastic bag to prevent moisture evaporation. I believe that this is useless, since evaporation at this temperature is minimal, and the buds and especially the regrown shoots on the seedling with such packaging can smear. Once every 10-20 days you need to check how dry the soil in which the roots of the seedlings are wrapped is. If necessary, remove the top packaging bag and, without removing the inner polyethylene, spill the seedling with cool water. Even better is to immerse it in cool water directly with that inner polyethylene. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the soil does not erode, but only becomes saturated with water. Continue the procedure until the release of air bubbles stops.
After this, repeat everything in reverse order: immerse the seedling in the top bag and carefully tie it with a rubber band to prevent evaporation from the roots. Place the seedling in the refrigerator.
A very good way is to store seedlings in a snowdrift. Of course, we need to take action against mice. In general, storage in snow is ideal for seedlings with unripened buds. The snow temperature at a depth of 20-30 cm is about 1-2 degrees below zero. There is no evaporation under such conditions. Before storing, the seedling is treated with fungicides (Prophylactic or Prestige) and cooled to 1-2 degrees Celsius. Then the seedling is wrapped in several layers of paper, packed in a kraft bag and in thick polyethylene. Paper in several layers creates an air layer to prevent damping and to enhance thermostatic characteristics. Polyethylene will protect from excess moisture. You can put some rodenticide (anti-mouse) product inside the plastic wrap. Place the packed seedlings in the snow and cover them with a layer of snow, choosing the most shaded place on the site for this. This method is good if there are a lot of seedlings and (or) they are quite large and you can’t count on a refrigerator.
Some experienced gardeners manage to build a similar snowdrift on their balcony. And they perfectly preserve any amount of living material until planting.
Storage in the cellar will be no worse. But in this case, before planting in the cellar, the seedlings must be cooled to 2-3 degrees Celsius, treated with fungicides, packaged in paper and polyethylene, after which they can be lowered into the cellar.
If the seedling has large sprouts, then it can be planted in a pot and cared for like a houseplant. The only condition is to create conditions with low temperature and high illumination. Moreover, if the sprouts on the seedling are pale, then high illumination is excluded for 2-3 weeks. The sprouts should turn green. More often it happens that the sprouts turn black and fall off on their own. For example, on roses, it is recommended to break them off yourself. There is no need to be afraid of this. All plants have a 2-fold and even 3-fold supply of buds in case of spring vagaries of nature. The main thing is not to overheat, overwater or dry out the seedling.
The most stable and unpretentious seedling is. It can be stored in any of the following ways. In addition, it grows well as an indoor plant. Just when replanting, select a deeper pot so that the sun does not illuminate the soil in the pot itself - and it will successfully wait until it is planted, and will even grow quite well.
When and how to plant seedlings?
Now let’s figure out when you can plant a seedling. Of course, everything depends on the weather, which not only we, but also weather forecasters and meteorologists do not undertake to predict in our recommendations. I always feel uncomfortable with advice like “plant on April 12” or “May 5”. The earth needs to thaw and warm up.
You need to dig a planting hole in accordance with the recommendations for this type of seedlings. Naturally, when planting an apple or pear tree, it will be a large hole, up to 1 m deep. If the soil is still frozen at depth, leave the hole dug to warm up. It will stand in this form for 5-6, or 10 days - and the soil will be saturated with moisture from the rains and warm up in all layers. Next – in our way, “agronomically”: fertilizers, compost, humus, spillage...
How to preserve roots and bulbs?
Now - to the attention of those who need to preserve not only seedlings, but also perennials. In this case, storage at negative temperatures is excluded. Refrigerated storage will be preferable, although some homes have such beautiful cellars that this method will work. Storage in a cellar, which may leak from groundwater or is contaminated with mold, is excluded. In any case, treatment with fungicides against molds and diseases will not be superfluous. Some bulbs are affected by thrips. This is especially true for gladioli. Here treatment with insecticides against this scourge will also be necessary. A very good effect is achieved by generously dusting gladioli with dolomite flour or slaked lime. Here you need to ensure that you and your household are not harmed when storing the bulbs. All treatments must be done in a separate room or outdoors. Fortunately, now there are often days with above-zero temperatures.
Many roots and rhizomes can be planted in pots. This is especially true for such “sissies” as delphiniums, aconites, and gravilats. Such planting is very desirable for daylilies and hostas. They have time to get stronger before planting in the ground and quickly acquire a good appearance. By the way, hosta leaves grown in poor lighting conditions have an uncharacteristic color. Only after planting in a permanent place does the hosta display all the stripes and other decorations required for this variety.
When to plant bulbs and roots?
The timing of planting perennial plants in the ground varies so much that this is the subject of a separate discussion. I suggest you carefully study the information on the packaging and read the literature on growing these perennial crops. Naturally, perennials that overwinter in the ground in our conditions: phlox, irises, peonies, hostas, daylilies, lilies, etc. can be planted early, after the ground has thawed to a depth of 1 m. To speed up this process, you can use the method outlined higher. Namely, dig a planting trench or hole and let it warm up.
Perennials that are removed from the site for storage for the winter - gladioli, dahlias - are planted after the soil warms up to 12-14 degrees. This is approximately during the potato planting period, only a week later. Another sign (if there are no potato grower neighbors who know the planting dates) is the flowering of coltsfoot or even dandelion.
Some perennials require planting in a pot. For example, canna can be planted directly in the ground, but then you may not wait for it to bloom. It is better to plant it in a pot in March and keep it as a houseplant. The same goes for begonia and gloxinia. These beauties also require early potting and are transferred to the ground or containers after the threat of frost has passed.
A separate question about “tailed” lilies. This is very common: in a store they offer you a lily with a long “shoot”-peduncle. There's nothing wrong with that. Naturally, the store is warm and optimal storage parameters are violated. You can do this:
- Before planting, store the lily along with the shoot in the refrigerator. When planting, place it horizontally and deepen it by 20-25 cm, which will promote the formation of additional roots and rapid growth.
- if the shoot is too long, you should break it off and plant the lily as usual. In this case, you sacrificed the first (by the way, very weak and, dare I say it, miserable) flowering. By saving effort on forcing the flower, your lily will take root well and will soon delight you with beautiful blooms.
Good luck to all our customers and readers!
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In order for perennial ornamental plants to delight the owners of the site with abundant flowering, they need to be provided with good conditions even in Russian frosts. Overwintering large-leaved hydrangea in the basement allows you to protect the buds on last year's shoots from freezing. Thanks to this, the gardener can enjoy the flowering of the shrub almost the entire season.
Basement preparation
Before transferring the hydrangea for storage, the basement must be prepared in the same way as for planting a root crop harvest:
If the basement in which the hydrangea will winter is intended for storing vegetables and pickles, then it is best to give the plant a place where the temperature does not rise above +2...+3°C. You should not place a container with large-leaved hydrangea where there is air flow from the incoming ventilation hole. Due to the constant draft and changing conditions outside, fluctuations in the temperature of the earthen coma will be too sharp. This can lead to freezing of the root system or early awakening of the buds.
When wintering in a cellar, you should pay attention to the humidity in the room. Large-leaved hydrangeas, which are sensitive to dampness, are easily subject to rot if stored in too damp a place. If the temperature in the basement or other room where the plant overwinters is higher than indicated, then shoot growth will begin in mid-winter. Large-leaved hydrangea will not die if forced early, but it will need lighting and watering, which will cause unnecessary trouble for the owner.
You can reduce humidity by ventilating the basement (through a window or open ventilation). To adjust its level, quicklime is also suitable, containers with which should be placed in the basement. Ventilation helps regulate temperature.
The container in which young large-leaved hydrangea will overwinter must have good drainage holes so that water stagnation does not occur during winter watering. If there is no suitable container for a large bush on the farm, it can be replaced very well by spandbond or lutrasil, wrapped several times around an earthen ball. You cannot use plastic film for this purpose: an airtight material will lead to insufficient ventilation of the root system and its heating.
Preparation for storage
The key to a good winter is the maturity of the wood of the shoots. To achieve this, you need to start preparing large-leaved hydrangeas for the dormant period in September. At this time, the gardener removes some of the leaves from below. They need to be removed to about ½ the height of the bush. Many varieties of large-leaved hydrangea are still blooming at this time, but removing the foliage does not affect the decorative appearance of the plant.
After the first frost or in the event of a persistent drop in temperature to +5... 0°C, deciduous heat-loving plants stop growing. This can be easily recognized by changes in color or falling leaves. Large-leaved hydrangea stops flowering, but cannot shed its foliage on its own.
At this time (for central Russia - early October) the next stage of preparation for winter begins:
- you need to remove the remains of hydrangea inflorescences from the shoots;
- cut off the remaining leaves from the stems;
- feed the plant with a fertilizer solution with phosphorus and potassium.
When removing foliage, you need to trim the petiole, leaving a small part of it on the stem. After 7-10 days, these residues will fall off on their own. Before transferring them to storage, you need to make sure that they do not remain on the branches, as their presence will lead to the appearance of mold.
Do not cut or break the ends of the shoots. Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea belonging to the Endless Summer or Forever and Ever series begin their first flowering in May-June, on last year’s branches. To prevent the buds from freezing during preparation for storage, leaves should be left at the ends of the shoots. With proper wintering, the buds with buds are well preserved.
How to dig up a hydrangea bush?
Large-leaved hydrangea should be stored with a lump of earth, the volume of which may be large. To give the plant time to go into dormancy, dig it up in the fall after the air temperature drops to 0°C. Before digging, you need to remove some of the old shoots.
Hydrangea should be dug in a circle at a distance of about 40 cm from the center of an adult bush up to 1 m high. If the bush is small, the earthen lump can be the size of the projection of the crown of a large-leaved hydrangea.
Deepen the ditch by 40-50 cm and begin digging up the root system from below. This should be done with an assistant who will support the large-leaved hydrangea in a comfortable position and help remove the heavy bush from the hole.
Gardeners often leave hydrangeas directly in containers, taking them out into the garden in the summer. In this case, digging up the bushes will not be necessary. It will only be needed for transshipment into a larger container. This procedure is performed as needed.
Methods for storing large-leaved hydrangea
If there is no basement or cellar, then the large-leaved hydrangea bush can be preserved until spring in other ways:
- On an insulated veranda or loggia, where temperature fluctuations are insignificant, hydrangeas will winter no worse than in the basement. During cold wintering, light and watering are not required (or you can cover the soil surface with snow once every 2 weeks). When the weather warms up and the buds awaken early, you should not try to move large-leaved hydrangea to an even warmer room or increase watering. The bush is still dormant, and leaf development will not occur at temperatures up to +10°C.
- Small bushes or seedlings with flowers and leaves purchased in winter can even be kept in a room. It is better to place them on the windowsill and provide additional lighting. It can be predicted with a high degree of confidence that they will have to be hardened for a long time before planting in the ground. This method of caring for flowers involves taking the pot of large-leaved hydrangea out into the fresh air, first for 30-40 minutes a day. The time the flower stays outside is gradually increased.
- It is difficult to place a large plant when wintering in the basement or on the veranda without pruning. But don’t worry: large-leaved hydrangeas also bloom on the current year’s shoots. Therefore, for the winter, the bush can be pruned at a height of 20-30 cm from the soil level. In this case, flowering will begin in the second half of summer (August-October).
Preparing for planting in spring
Large-leaved hydrangea is planted only after return frosts have passed, which also occur in April. Vegetative seedlings are planted in late spring, after preliminary hardening and acclimation to open sunlight.
You can get large-leaved hydrangeas out of the basement no earlier than March. Raise the temperature gradually. Large-leaved hydrangea should be watered with water at room temperature. The next watering should be done in 7-10 days. When watering, dissolve complex fertilizer (Kemira, Fertik, etc.) in water.
How to care for planted hydrangea?
Before planting in the ground, you can prune and shape the bush. It is advisable to remove branches that are broken, weathered or have not survived the winter as soon as the buds begin to swell.
Among the gardener's current problems are late frosts after a relatively warm period. Until mid-May, you should monitor the weather reports, and in case of cold weather, cover the planted bushes with spudbond. This can be done in the same way as coniferous shelter is made:
- install a frame made of wire or wooden slats near the bush;
- pull covering material over it;
- in case of severe frost (below -5°C), additionally cover the large-leaved hydrangea with burlap or cardboard.
If a successfully overwintered hydrangea can be protected from spring freezing, it will begin to bloom at the end of May.
Conclusion
How to preserve hydrangea in winter can only be understood from personal experience. With careful care of the plant in winter, it is easy to notice under what conditions the buds on large-leaved hydrangea begin to awaken, after which winter the flowering is most abundant, and how you can lose all the buds due to spring frost. If you follow simple rules for preparing for wintering and planting, the most capricious varieties of large-leaved hydrangea will be able to grow in central Russia.
Hydrangea is considered a winter-hardy species. Breeders and authors of varieties claim that the plant can withstand temperatures from -20 to -30 degrees Celsius. A considerable amount of positive experience has been accumulated in growing exotic elegant shrubs. In the conditions of the North-West, the Urals, not to mention the Moscow region, even uninsulated specimens winter well.
At the same time, the sad practice of many hydrangea lovers suggests that the bush often freezes in relatively warm weather - only 15-20 below zero. Similar incidents occur in the southern regions, even in the Black Sea region. Probably, every case of plant death is caused by objective reasons. This article may be useful to those who want to understand the problem and achieve results.
Different varieties, same problem
The literature provides various methods for insulating hydrangeas. Some operations need to be performed for all types, some only for certain varieties.
There is a difference between the types of hydrangeas. For example, large-leaved plants have a longer growing season. In addition, garden microphylla lays a flower bud in September, paniculate hydrangea in March-April. In the first case, the gardener must take measures to protect the tops of the shoots from frost burns. In the second, it is enough to insulate the stems and root system: if at least one branch survives the winter, the plant will bloom.
But the reason given is just a special case. The example does not explain why shrubs of the same variety have different frost resistance.
Perhaps it's about relationships. Hydrangea grows to decorate: most of its flowers are sterile. The shrub is wasteful: it spends too much energy on vigorous, long-lasting flowering. Sometimes there are no left for development. If we immediately succumb to the charms of hydrangea and forget about tomorrow’s winter, we will face a problem: we insulated, but it didn’t work out. Why?
- Probably because our bushes are weak.
- It is possible that the shoots are abundant, but the roots are frail.
- Or vice versa: the root system is powerful, but the foliage is scanty.
Well-ripened stems overwinter. This means that the plant must have sufficient energy to develop, gain strength and bloom.
Why does hydrangea freeze?
The reasons may be subtle. Here are examples.
The place chosen for planting is in the lowlands - and the cold flows there. Or vice versa: a bush crowns the top of a windy hill.
- Perhaps you have placed organic matter under the root, but for some reason the worms process it into humus. After all, it is known that plants do not absorb nutrients from undecomposed manure well.
- The composition and amount of mulch affects the survival rate: the roots of the flowers are close to the soil surface. B They can partially freeze out during a snowless winter.
- Does the composition of the fertilizer correspond to the stage of plant development: excess nitrogen provokes shoot growth, potassium and phosphorus contribute to the absorption of calcium and lignification of trunks. Disproportion generates imbalance in development.
Based on our experience, in this article we will try to:
- highlight all the necessary preparatory stages for pre-winter flower care;
- determine a list of activities at each stage;
- evaluate their effectiveness.
As a result, you yourself will choose which methods to use to insulate the hydrangea.
General care rules for all types of hydrangeas
The frost resistance of garden hydrangeas depends on two reasons:
- on the ability of the roots to provide the bush with sufficient nutrients;
- on the vitality of the shoots, the strength of the structure of the branches.
From the first day of the appearance of a young seedling, the florist continuously solves the primary problem - how to create the most favorable environment for the development of the shrub and subsequent wintering, during which the hydrangea will not freeze out.
Seven facets: factors for successful hydrangea care
In order for a luxuriously flowering bush to not freeze in the cold winter, you need to not only think through ways to cover the hydrangea, but also create in advance optimal conditions for the growth and ripening of shoots.
1. Location of the bush - where there is no draft. Suitable for a corner of a fence, a windward wall of a barn, a bench, or a decorative garden structure.
2. Lighting – light shading. The best place is where the sun is before noon.
3. Access to moisture. Hydrangea loves abundant watering. It is planted 1.5–2 m from fruit trees, otherwise there will be too much competition for moisture.
4. The soil is nutritious, slightly acidic, with a fairly loose, but not sandy structure - useful substances should not be washed out. The best place for macrophila from the nursery is the edge of the compost pit.
5. Adaptation of the root system. The roots in the nursery are accustomed to receiving an abundance of high-calorie substrate. Depleted garden soil does not stimulate secondary petioles to develop well. In order for the system to grow, the hole is widened, making it more than 50 cm. The soil structure is modified:
- to improve permeability, crushed stone and sand are added;
- to increase nutritional value - peat, dry leaves, humus, fertilizers.
6. Hardening and training of stems during the first three years using special agricultural technology:
- the young seedling grows freely in the first summer: broken, crooked branches growing inward are preserved.
- For the winter they put it in the cellar. The underground is an optimal environment: a stable temperature of 5–7°C, complete calm.
- in March, the pot with a one-year-old plant is returned indoors. When the leaves bloom - at the end of June or beginning of July, the stems are trimmed: they stimulate the growth of shoots and the development of roots.
- the next year the procedure is repeated;
- in the third year, after the May-June frosts, hydrangea is planted in the ground.
7. Feeding the bushes with fertilizers in an digestible form. Since fresh mullein is poison for the plant, if you lack experience, it is better to avoid adding manure. It can be successfully replaced by rotted grass from the year before last, forest litter, or the best option - vermicompost. Dilute the superphosphate mixture with 100 g - this complex will be enough for complete nutrition.
Proper nutrition is the key to successful wintering of hydrangeas
The roots are responsible for filling the stems with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Nitrogen is a building material for proteins. Cells of shoots, fruits, leaf mass, this is all protein. Calcium and potassium are substances responsible for the protection of protein cells, the strength of cell walls and connective tissue. Phosphorus promotes the absorption of trace elements and minerals.
The soil needs more than just nutrition. At different times, a given composition of fertilizing is required. In the early period - when ripening, the plant is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. In autumn, hydrangea is fertilized with phosphates and potassium.
Signs of abundance of each substance are determined by the color of the leaves:
- Yellowed foliage – nitrogen is needed. Urea and saltpeter are introduced into the diet.
- Turquoise leaves - add superphosphate.
- There is a slowdown in growth, a light border appears at the edges of the foliage - feed with potassium chloride or sulfate. Complex fertilizer – Potassium humate.
Preparing (pruning) hydrangea for wintering
The leaves on the stems are trimmed. It is better not to touch the inflorescences - in the spring they can be removed before the first flowering bud. The same can be said about radical molding. If the plant is too thick, you can carry out sanitary treatment - remove diseased, weak shoots. However, the final decision whether to cut or not to cut remains with the owner. The next pruning will be possible only in late spring, when green mass appears.
Choosing a method of insulation for hydrangeas, taking into account the basics of winter heat exchange
There are different options for covering bushes. These can be digging holes, tubes, canopies. With any method of wintering hydrangeas in the garden, at least two layers of insulation are used.
- The first, mandatory layer must cover the roots. Located on the surface, they need good insulation. A mound of peat and compost 8-10 cm thick is the most suitable thermal protection.
- The second layer is snow. It has been proven that the fluffy white mass is the best heat insulator. The temperature on the soil surface under the snow canopy is on average 10-13 degrees higher than in the atmosphere. In most cases, the soil cools down to only 5–10°C. Consequently, flower buds will be more comfortable when they are located below the snow cover.
Frost Shields
The following technology for insulating hydrangeas is considered the most effective and least labor-intensive.
– Wooden shields with protruding pegs along the edges are laid on one or both sides of the bush.
– Place a straw roller under the base of the bush. The stems are carefully supported on straw and placed on boards.
– The shoots are secured - using a cord stretched between pegs, or pinned. You can arrange the shoots in a fan or in a bunch.
– Add insulation – straw, leaves, peat; the entire structure is covered with non-woven material. Fixed with another shield.
In the digging hole
They dig a trench next to the flower. The hydrangea is dug up, placed in a hole, covered with a box, and covered with turf and straw. A shield is laid over the pit and covered with a vapor-permeable film. They press down with oppression - bricks, logs.
Frames
For tall climbing species, frames are made. This method is suitable for frost-resistant climbing or tall varieties. Allows you to maintain the temperature of the bush at ambient levels. Otherwise, trunks containing moisture will be additionally cooled due to its evaporation - by 3°–5° relative to the air. This method is absolutely not suitable for large-leaved garden hydrangea.
Pruning hydrangea according to Tim Bebel - for guaranteed flowering after winter
The innovative method, discovered by an American florist, is gaining popularity every year. He suggests pre-winter pruning of hydrangeas in the summer so that the flower buds have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. The essence of the technology is simple.
In July, non-flowering stems are shortened to the lowest lateral bud. In this way, the formation of flower buds on the shoots and in the underground part of the plant is stimulated.
The remaining stems are cut off in October - only by a third of the length. The result is a compact bush that is easy to insulate. Such hydrangeas can be grown in the garden - they bloom with a one hundred percent guarantee.
For active growth of shoots, shrubs formed using this method require intensive fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers - from spring until August.
Beautiful hydrangea flowers. And unpretentious. They decorate gardens with their luxurious, bright variety, and in return demand... attention. Agree: it’s difficult to call the usual human attitude towards a flower “care.”