Good day, dear users of my resource!
Dmitry Ignatichev is with you again - your guide in the world of scale modeling.
Often the life of a beginning modeler is full of surprises. And also many seemingly insoluble questions. Questions, questions, questions... What and how to do, how to cut the sprues, how to glue, how and with what to paint...
It's not easy to figure all this out. Especially if there are no modelers among your friends, there are no large-scale modeling clubs in your city, and there is very little time to search and study literature. Taking into account the fact that there is very little valuable information, and the Internet is filled with scattered discussions on all sorts of forums, things get really difficult :)) But... dear friends, don’t even think about quitting what you started. The matter must always be brought to its natural conclusion - to result .
Well, in turn, I will help you understand the science of scale modeling. And yours new material I devote myself to solving such a problem as selecting a set of tools sufficient to create my first model(s). We will figure out what you need and need to have in your arsenal initial stage acquiring the skill of a modeler, and what will be completely unnecessary.
In general, the arsenal of a model master is very extensive. And it can take up quite a significant amount of space. From a small cabinet in a personal room to an entire workshop in a private house or garage. Such instrumentation is similar to the workshops of great violin makers such as Amati and Stradivarius. Such things are perfectly depicted in the brilliant Soviet film “A Visit to the Minotaur.” And like any significant business, so many tools are collected and purchased long time. Sometimes calculated in tens of years. But this is all the lot of true MASTERS who are in love with their work. Matter of LIFE.
But my dear reader, if you are at the very beginning of this path, such a number of tools are absolutely not required. Especially if you are not at all sure that you will do this for a long time.
Therefore, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the list of beginner modeler tools I have prepared.
A BEGINNER'S TOOLKIT
MODELIST'S KNIFE
The model knife is perhaps the most important tool in the arsenal. Simply because it all begins with him. You will use a knife to separate the parts from the sprue. Cut off the burr. Clean up various kinds defects. Nowadays there is a wide range of knives on sale, differing in length and thickness of the handle. Modern model knives have a collet clamp for the blade. These blades can be replaced quickly and easily. The fact is that replaceable blades are designed to perform highly specialized tasks and perform various types of work.
You can purchase either a knife separately or a whole complex consisting of the knife itself and a set of replacement blades. Everything is your choice. For starters, you can just buy a knife without replaceable blades. If there are knives for sale different manufacturers- ask to hold the knife in your hands. The instrument should fit well in the hand and please her.
TWEEZERS
Here is another tool without which the work of a modeler will be extremely difficult. This is tweezers. It is necessary when working with small and Very small details. Only with the help of tweezers will you be able to install and glue tiny parts into the limited spaces of aircraft cabins, landing gear niches and others.
Tweezers are a modeller's friend
Tweezers are one of the most common modeling tools that can be purchased not only in model stores, but also in pharmacies and radio electronics stores. You can also purchase watchmaker's tweezers. It has thinner “jaws”, which allows you to work with high precision on small parts.
SANDPAPER
After separation from the sprue, all parts of the model must be cleaned of various types of defects. This could be various types of unevenness or burrs. After gluing various parts It is also necessary to clean the joint. Of course, manufacturers are constantly improving the quality of their kits. But one way or another, sandpaper will be required in the work of a modeller for a very long time.
You can purchase sandpaper at any hardware or automotive store. Also, various types of nail files and needle files will be useful in your work. You can use needle files for grinding metal, resin and not only plastic parts. Main feature The file is about its durability. It will last you much longer than any sandpaper or nail file.
But still, at the initial stage of work, sandpaper will do.
MODEL CUTTERS
Removing parts from the sprue with a pattern knife can be a time-consuming and, in some cases, dangerous task for a beginner. The knife does its job wonderfully in capable hands, and can spoil others a lot. Therefore, at the beginning of your career, it is advisable to use pattern cutters to separate parts.
On at the moment Almost every tool manufacturer and scale models has in its assortment model nippers. They do their job perfectly, leaving behind smooth, clean edges and joints. It is advisable to purchase a high-quality and not cheap tool.
WORKING SURFACE
All your work on the model will involve cutting, sawing, and cutting out. It will be necessary to process parts made of plastic and other materials without fear of damaging the surface of the desktop. You will not be creating a model in a specialized room, but on your everyday desktop. Therefore, it is advisable to prepare a special work surface. This can be either a piece of regular chipboard or a specialized self-healing mat.
The cutting board is the chef's first assistant
It doesn't take up much space when folded. Lined with a graphic grid. Perfectly protects the table surface from cuts and tool slips.
MODEL GLUE
Often glue is not included in the model kit. It can only be found in some gift sets and publications. Therefore, it must be purchased separately. Available in different packaging options. Either in glass jars or in plastic bottles with a needle. There are 3 types model adhesives, differing from each other in their operating principle.
I will glue everything - I will tie everything
The choice of adhesive used depends on personal preference and the specific work task. For example, I mainly use glue that dissolves the edges of the surfaces being joined. And then creating a seamless connection out of it.
So we have our BEGINNER MODELIST’S TOOLKIT, which is quite modest in size and cost. Something like NAZ - Necessary Emergency Stock. As you progress in mastering the skill of large-scale modeling, you will begin to better understand the essence of the work being carried out. And you will begin to expand your tool arsenal. But this is still ahead...
In the meantime... DON'T DELAY, start assembling your first model. And all your questions will find practical application. And you yourself will begin to answer them. If you don’t know, ask. Write in the comments, or to my email - in the CONTACTS section.
P.S. Don't forget to like the article. After all, if she helped you, she will help another novice modeler. Best wishes. And...wonderful models to you.
In today's article we will look at the sequence and main secrets of high-quality assembly of plastic models using the example of airplanes and helicopters produced by the Zvezda company.
Where to start collecting a model?
First of all, you should decide on the theme of future exhibits; these can be both civilian and military types. Here the choice depends on your preferences. Another criterion for choosing a model is its scale. Beginning modelers should choose kits with few parts and a single color paint scheme.
You should also get necessary tool. Here is an approximate list of required equipment:
- Set of model knives.
- Tweezers.
- Model rug.
- Glue.
- Special modeling tape or tape.
- Wire cutters.
- Sandpaper or needle file.
- putty.
- Brushes, airbrush.
- Paints.
Having collected the necessary tool, you can proceed to assembling the selected models.
Collection of models, using the example of Zvezda airplanes and helicopters
At the very beginning you should prepare workplace on which you will work. To do this, you need a table, preferably with a large surface, which needs to be covered with a modeling mat to avoid damaging the table surface. Only those items that are useful for assembling the model should be on the table. The room in which you will work should also have good, bright lighting. Then you need to inspect the purchased kits, study the instructions, make sure that there are no missing parts, and also that there are no defects on them.
So, let's move on to the sequence of assembling the models.
1. First, we separate the parts from the sprue. Then we clean out the remaining irregularities when disconnecting. Do not separate all the parts at once, as in the future you may get confused about what is what and where to attach which part.
To begin with, we separate the fuselage parts and attach the halves to each other, but do not glue them together, but make sure that they fit each other clearly. If one of the parts has defects, it should be adjusted using sandpaper or a file. The sandpaper should be waterproof, since during work it will have to be washed frequently in order to get rid of plastic shavings.
2. Before gluing the parts together, connect them using modeling tape or tape, this will facilitate the gluing process.
Gluing top layer body, let it dry, and then proceed to gluing the bottom.
Buy special superfluid, quick-drying glue.
Before gluing the fuselage, the windows and cockpit should be glued. For transparent parts, use a special glue with a transparent base. You should also place a small weight in the bow of your model, this is necessary so that later your exhibit does not fall on its tail. You can use plasticine as a weight.
When assembling a helicopter model, you should assemble the cockpit and engine, then cover everything with primer and paint. After complete drying, place it between the fuselage halves.
After all the above manipulations, you can begin gluing the body halves. Next, glue the remaining parts to the assembled model. If you have a model airplane, we glue the wings, tail, turbines, landing gear, etc. If you have a helicopter model, then we glue the lights, antennas, landing gear, install the blades, etc.
For ease of applying glue, use brushes. When gluing small parts, use tweezers.
After all the parts are glued, we leave the model to dry for about a day.
3. Our model has dried, now we can proceed to the next stage - sanding. All joints where gluing occurred should be sanded.
4. If the model turns out to have slight unevenness, then its surface should be covered with a layer of putty and, after drying, sanded again. The putty dries within 24 hours.
Before applying putty, cover all areas where you do not want it to go. This can be done using masking tape.
The primer is applied from aerosol can at a distance of 20 - 30 cm from the surface of the model. After this procedure, we also leave our model to dry for a day.
6. After sanding, applying putty and primer, we begin the painting process. For your first model, choose a single color paint scheme. Because without proper experience, painting a two- or three-color model, and even more so camouflage, is quite difficult.
Paint small parts without cutting them out of the sprues; this is done to simplify the process.
You can paint the model using brushes, a can of paint, or use an airbrush with a compressor.
The painted model should dry for two days.
7. After the paint has completely dried, apply the decals that came with the kit to the surface of the model.
Essentially, decals are decals. Applying the decal to the surface is easy - just cut it out the desired picture, lower it into warm water for 15 - 30 seconds, and then apply to to the right place on the surface and lightly press with a napkin, thereby removing the excess layer of water.
Then we cover the surface with a layer of varnish and again let the model dry.
Perhaps these are the main stages of assembling plastic models of airplanes and helicopters. In any case, build quality comes with experience. So the matter should not be postponed long box, quickly purchase your first model, and there may be more than one, and dive into amazing world modeling!
, "Star" and a number of others no less famous companies. The basis of our assortment consists of more than 700 models of Russian and foreign aircraft. In addition to prefabricated models of aircraft from the Second World War period, you will find examples of modern technology. First of all, these are samples of civil aviation and spacecraft (lunar cars and rockets).
What sets do we offer you? Most prefabricated models of civil and military aircraft are made on a scale of 1:72 or 1:48, less frequently, but still there are examples of 1:32 and 1:144. Many of them are made according to original drawings and are highly detailed. Building an exact copy of a real passenger or military aircraft will be especially interesting for professionals. After all, such a ready-made IL, AN or Boeing will take worthy place in the collection.
What aircraft assembly model can you purchase from us?
Samples of both Russian and foreign aircraft are available for sale. Among them:
- Su aircraft. Represented in the catalog as multi-role fighters. Among them are Su-35 and Su-37.
- Airplanes Il. Among them is the famous Soviet attack aircraft. This is the Il-2, which took part in the battles of 1941.
- MiG aircraft. They are among the most advanced fighter-bombers in the world. From us you can purchase prefabricated MiG models in modifications 21BiS, 29S and a number of others.
- Tu aircraft. Presented for sale are models of passenger airliners. These include Tu-134 A/B-3 and Tu-154M, made on a scale of 1:144.
- Boeing airplanes. Famous passenger airliners produced in the USA. You can purchase from us a prefabricated model of Boeing from the 767 and 778 series. They are available in both standard and gift versions. The latter contains everything you need for assembly: glue, paint and a brush.
To assemble a model, the model itself and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model well, you will need a lot of tools, mainly inexpensive tools - a model knife. tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.
Model knives and cutters
The most important of all tools is good knife. For working with airplane models, a knife with a narrow blade is more suitable. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade during operation. A surgical scalpel has proven itself well as a knife.
Skin
To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of sandpaper: a coarser one for initial processing and a very fine one for finishing. It is advisable to use waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn-off plastic. Waterproof sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash away plastic filings.
Glue
The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It doesn't hurt to have a special glue for joining transparent parts.
Putty
Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all sorts of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.
Masking tape
Masking tape is widely used when assembling models. It can not only protect surfaces when painting or puttying, but also hold parts together during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin a tape as possible.
Dye
Available large number paints for models, from miter to acrylic paints on water based. It is better to finish with acrylic or oil paint. In the latter case finished model V mandatory It is necessary to blow out with a semi-matte varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint gives matte surface, the model airplane should shine slightly.
Brushes
For painting you will need three brushes: a thin, a medium-sized and a large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. After use, brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried.
| Brush "Revell", marten, No. 4/0 |  | Brush "Revell", No. 2 |
A properly organized workplace is a big deal. It is preferable to have a separate large table, but you can also work in the kitchen when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice defects in the models.
Tool location
The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so. so that it is at hand. There is nothing worse than searching for a missing knife during the assembly process.
File and CP
It is good to store separated small parts in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not get lost. It wouldn't hurt to have an album for files.
Tweezers
In a complete model kit there will always be parts that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeller. In this case, tweezers are indispensable. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.
Airbrush and compressor
The vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the painting process without an airbrush and compressor. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to engage in modeling more or less seriously. The airbrush and compressor will require the largest financial allocation, apart from family budget. Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the latter is the most important!!!). It is generally accepted that painting with an airbrush is easier than with a brush. The question is debatable, but in any case, the result of painting with an airbrush, all other things being equal (the experience of the modeller), is superior to the result of working with a brush. In addition, a number of camouflage painting schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) from the Second World War can only be done with an airbrush.
Knife set
Sometimes one model knife is not enough; it is better to get three: with sharp, cut and rounded blades.
And you definitely need spare blades for a model knife. You can buy them at Tools Store or on Aliexpress: .
"Extra Hands"
Small metal alligator clips are a great help. Used by radio installers. They are good for holding small parts when gluing and painting.
When assembling and especially when modifying a model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro drill and a set of small-diameter drills. You can also use a drill to process the surfaces of the model using different attachments.
Wire cutters
Separate parts from frames, bite off burrs, etc. It is best to use small side cutters, borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.
File
A model with cut-out control surfaces looks much more realistic than one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by jointing. It is best to cut with a miniature saw. made from a razor blade.
Hole puncher
Hole punchers different diameters useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, the Japanese “rising sun” circles. Painted markings are preferable to decals.
It is hardly possible to list all the tools needed to assemble the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.
We buy a model
We have acquired a tool, now we can choose a model. At first the most wise decision- stop at something simple, for example, one of the single-engine fighters of the Second World War: North America P-51 Mustang, Mitsubishi Zero or R-47 Thunderbolt. By assembling these models you can acquire basic assembly and painting skills.
The models of these aircraft are relatively simple. Both in the 48th and 72nd scales they do not contain so many details. For the most part, it's like Thunderbolt. Both the Mustang and the Zero were painted in only two colors - a plain top and a plain bottom. It’s better to start with the 72nd scale, if only because of its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you don't have experience, then why spoil it? expensive model, if you can ruin a cheap one?
After assembling several single-engine propeller-driven monoplanes, you can move on to experiments on multi-engine machines, “jet”, biplane, as well as “whale” in scale 1:48 and higher (if you have the desire and availability separate apartment for ready-made models).
Examination
When you receive a model from the seller, do not rush to thank him. Open the box and make sure that all the parts stated in the instructions are present, decals and especially the cockpit canopy. It would be useful to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China can manage to put a Messerschmitt in a Spitfire box. not to mention the replacement of Bf.109E with Bf.l09G. Check the quality of the castings - there are underfills.
If you find complete compliance with the kit, thank the seller and run home to assemble the model. Take it at home necessary tools and place them neatly on your desktop. You can move on to the next stage.
Studying the instructions
You will probably start studying the instructions on the way. This is by no means forbidden (but also not encouraged - you can get hit by a car). Evaluate the instructions critically. Its author has his own view on the process of assembling the model, you may have yours. Sometimes it makes sense to change the build order. However. Don’t rush to scold the author if you don’t like something. Try to delve into the ideas that prompted the technologist to adopt this particular assembly order. Maybe he is right, and not you?
Checking for lice
The overall quality of the model is quite easy to check. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it worked out easily and without displacement, then you bought the Thing. If not, stock up on putty, sandpaper and patience. To avoid losing the cut parts, it is recommended to keep them in a special box. The parts should be separated from the sprues with a knife or side cutters, but under no circumstances should they be broken off. If necessary, the places where parts are attached to the frames should be cleaned after separation.
Fuselage assembly
So, you have examined the model. The euphoria has passed, you can get down to business. Let's start with the fuselage.
Cleaning parts
There may be traces of mold grease and other grease stains on the castings; these should be removed. Immerse the sprue or already cut parts in warm water for about ten minutes, then scrub them thoroughly with soap and an old toothbrush. Rinse in running water and lay it out to dry.
Stripping
After the parts have dried, clean the flat surfaces with a large piece of sandpaper and go over the sandpaper with the ends of the fuselage halves. The operation has two goals - to remove possible large irregularities, and to make the place where the halves are glued completely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for better adhesion of the glue. Also clean the places where the parts attach to the sprues.
It happens that one of the fuselage halves is cast with protruding parts, for example, with the tail landing gear. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after assembling the fuselage. The second way is to take a small one wooden block, wrap it in sandpaper and treat the end of the fuselage rugs, especially carefully sanding in the area of the protruding part. It is best to scrape the part itself not with sandpaper, but with half a razor blade. Use a modeling knife to remove the flash. In addition to the factory, a small “burst” may appear when sanding. Some plastics will peel. Pay attention to the flash not only at the ends, but also in the area of the cutout for the cockpit canopy, in the air intake opening, and in the places where the stabilizers and wing planes are glued. Remember: when the defect “comes out” during painting (and it will definitely “appear”), it will be too late to correct it.
Adjusting the lantern
Fold the fuselage halves. They must fit together perfectly. If necessary, repeat sanding the halves using sandpaper. Attach a flashlight to the folded fuselage (while it can be secured with rubber bands). The lantern, again, must fit perfectly “in place”. Otherwise, carefully sand it down to fit it to the fuselage. There are “deadly” options - the canopy is thicker than the fuselage. Well, sand the plexiglass, then run to the store for the GOI infusion. With GOI paste it is quite possible to restore the transparency of the flashlight to a more than acceptable level.
Modern modellers use Future Floor Finish (Floor Wax)- American floor polishing liquid. Adds transparency and shine to clear decals.
It is much worse if a gap forms between the canopy and the fuselage, and the top of the canopy fits perfectly into the back of the fuselage. Such a defect can be “treated” with putty. The trouble is the color of the putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Painting the inside of putty with a glued lantern is a more difficult task than assembling a model of a ship in a bottle. The process is elementary only in one case - when at the bottom of the fuselage there is a huge cutout for the center section.
Customizing the cabin interior
It's time to separate the cockpit interior elements from the sprues: the instrument panel, floor, back wall. Customize the parts to fit by grinding and inserting them into the fuselage halves. Often the floor and instrument panel are too wide for the glued fuselage halves. On some models side panels the cabins are molded integrally with the fuselage halves; on some, the cabin floor together with the side panels forms a kind of bathroom. The bathroom is also often wider than necessary. Adjust it to fit.
Now cut off the small parts of the cabin interior from the sprues - the control handle. pedals, pilot's seat. Peel them and put them in a box so as not to lose them.
Cabin interior painting
Sometimes during the construction of a model it is necessary to paint individual parts or subassemblies, the cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and painting in the same way as large ones: removing broken parts, traces of pushrods, cleaning casting seams, washing, drying and degreasing.
Pay careful attention to the selection of paints for the cabin interior. Group the pieces by color. Parts that are painted in different colors Conveniently clamped in crocodile clips. Make sure that the alligator’s “teeth” grip the parts securely - jet compressed air quite capable of sweeping away a poorly secured part. First of all, the cabin itself is painted in the base color (most often this is internal sides fuselage halves). After the base tone has completely dried, proceed to “painting” with a brush the elements of the cabin “decoration”: radio remote controls, trimmer controls, oxygen supply valve, etc. Most often these elements are painted black, but other colors are also found.
Before assembly, it is also worth painting visible internal surfaces air intakes and engine cylinders.
Dashboard trim
The easiest way is to transfer the included decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are equipped with such decals and almost all decals in best case scenario correspond to reality by 20-30 percent. Much greater realism can be achieved by brushing the dashboard with water- or oil-based paints. Painting the dash the base color is necessary even when using a decal. It’s easier to paint dashboards that have been imitated during casting. individual devices, especially if the base color of the board, like on the Mustang or Zero, is black. The part is completely painted with matte black paint, then the edges of the instruments are outlined with a lead pencil. Finally, a drop appears on the instrument scale liquid glass Or, at worst, colorless nail polish, after drying the varnish or glass is lightly polished.
The Thunderbolt's instrument panel was painted black, and the instrument dials were painted white. Again, you'll have to start by painting the dashboard matte black. After complete drying, a drop of white paint is applied to the center of the imitation instrument scale and “smeared” to the edges of the instrument. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.
The next step towards realism is imitation of the instrument scales themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. The scales are drawn with a thin brush.
Cabin interior assembly
After painting the interior elements of the cabin, you can begin assembly. Provided the parts are pre-fitted, it should not cause any difficulties. Contact points should be cleaned of paint. It is best to connect parts with liquid glue, using the capillary effect known from a physics course. The two parts are pressed tightly against each other, a drop is applied to the joint liquid glue. The drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will be both strong and neat. When gluing, it is important that the glue does not get on painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - painstaking work will go down the drain.
It is most convenient when the cabin interior is made in the form of a “bathtub”, as in the Thunderbolt model. The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and after gluing it must dry at least overnight. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try on the assembled module to the fuselage. If the module fits, glue it to one half of the fuselage and go to bed to fill it up. If not, adjust it using the familiar method of sanding, cutting and filing away excess plastic. After gluing the “bathtub” and the glue has set slightly, make a final check - once again put the fuselage halves together, one of which already has the cabin glued into it.
Assembling the fuselage halves
Typically, the instructions recommend applying glue to the joining surfaces of the fuselage halves. Most people do just this, but in this case there is a high probability of uncontrolled squeezing of excess glue onto the outer surfaces of the assembly. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: fold the halves and coat them along the contour with liquid glue, apply the glue carefully with a brush. True, this case also has its pitfalls: adhesives can easily get on your fingertips, and the latter can leave imprints that are difficult to remove on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep your fingers away from the fuselage seam when applying the glue. The glued halves should be clamped with something (rubber bands, clothespins) and left to dry.
After drying for several hours, it is necessary to clean the adhesive seam flush, having previously protected the pilot’s cabin from sawdust with tape. Sometimes the seam has to be puttied. The putty should also be given time to dry thoroughly. The seam is cleaned with sandpaper of different grain sizes (from medium to fine).
The first step in assembling the aircraft model has been completed. You can smile proudly, proud of your achievement.
Let's add a wing and tail
It makes sense to start with the tail: until the wing is glued to the stabilizer and rudders, the height is easy to approach.
Correction of defects in the brutal tail
On most small scale Mustang, Thunderbolt and Zero fighter models, the stabilizer halves are cast in one piece (top and bottom together). Most often they are free of defects. If there are defects, it is recommended to use “hot cleaning”.
Heat the water to a boil and lower the part with the unnecessary bend into it for a few seconds. Remove the part and straighten it before it cools down. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.
Thinner parts require less heat. All tail surfaces have fairly thin leading and trailing edges, which can be completely eliminated by bathing in hot water It's easy to damage the edges. It is advisable to bend only the thick layer of stabilizer.
Prepare the halves of the stabilizer for gluing - sanding, washing, drying and degreasing.
Adjustment of tail surfaces
Insert the stabilizer half into the fuselage. As a rule, the joint location, even on good models, requires adjustment. The gap will have to be puttyed after gluing, but in the meantime we need to evaluate how accurately the surface of the stabilizer matches the sagging on the fuselage. If the bead is thicker, then it needs to be adjusted to the profile of the stabilizer, but if the stabilizer is thicker, then it would probably be better to increase the bead profile with putty after gluing half of the stabilizer.
Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces
Now that you've adjusted tail unit You can start gluing it in place. If the rudder is given separately, then start with it. Apply maple to the mating surfaces and press the rudder to the fuselage. In most cases, the rudder is glued as if it were in the neutral position, so make sure by examining the model from the front, rear and top several times that correct position steering wheel
After the adhesive seam of the rudder and fuselage has cured, you can begin to attach the horizontal halves. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of symmetry of the fuselage. It is best to check by eye that the stabilizer is glued correctly by inspecting the assembly strictly from the rear with a 90-degree turn. In this case, the stabilizer occupies vertical position and it’s easier to mentally compare the relative positions of its halves; the halves should be on the same axis. Having set right angles, secure the halves of the stabilizer with something (for example, masking tape) until the glue dries completely.
Wing
Wing planes are sometimes given in two halves, upper and lower, sometimes right and left upper parts and a common lower part for the right and left planes; there are also wing planes cast in one piece. Problems that can arise with a wing are akin to a stabilizer problem.
Aligning and gluing the rigid wing
Defects in the rigid wing are eliminated using the already familiar “heating-bending” method. Then the plane is adjusted to the center section. When gluing the planes, you should control the transverse “V” angle and the installation angle of attack. It is important to maintain the same angles of attack and “V” for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the angles of the planes will be clearly visible on the assembled model. It is convenient to control the uniformity of the transverse angle by the width of the gaps between the planes and the center section. Gluing the planes. Check the installation angles and secure the position of the wing with masking tape or tape. After the glue has hardened, the cracks are puttied and sanded. Working with emery at the junction of the plane and the fuselage is extremely inconvenient, and the jointing is almost always damaged during the work. However, there’s nothing you can do, don’t leave a gap. With the proper skill, it is quite possible to restore the jointing.
Alignment and gluing of wing planes from two halves
The first step is to grind the ends of the halves of the planes using sandpaper; a similar operation has already been done with the halves of the fuselage. Let's fold the halves of one plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ends and jointing lines should converge. In practice, we usually have to remember the saying “the tail is out, the nose is stuck.” After combining the highlanders, one of the endings “leaves” somewhere, the jointing lines do not match. It is best to take the coincidence of the jointing lines of the upper and lower halves as a reference point when gluing. Preparation for gluing is carried out as usual. The halves are folded again and secured with narrow strips of camouflage data. Gluing occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is passed with a brush with liquid glue. After the glue has set, the fixing strips are removed, and glue is dripped onto the joints that they covered. While one plane is drying, you can work on the second. Finishing of surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane is carried out only after the glue has completely dried. The assembled planes are glued to the fuselage in the same way as solid halves. Once again, it doesn’t hurt to remind you: control the installation angles, first of all, the transverse “V” angle.
Alignment and gluing of a three-piece wing
The process of assembling a wing from three parts (two upper halves of the planes and one lower one, cast in one piece with the lower surface of the center section) will be different than assembling wings from four and two parts.
Prepare the parts for gluing as usual. Replace the lower part of the wing and secure it with masking tape. Check the installation angles. Then place the upper ladles of the planes in place and also secure them with tape (the same problems may arise here as when joining the upper and lower halves of a four-part wing: mismatching of the tips and jointing lines). Check the cross "V" again. If you need to reduce the angle, insert thin plastic spacers of the same thickness into the gaps between the fuselage and the upper halves. Glue the lower wing piece to the fuselage. After drying, once again check the transverse “V” and the correct fit of the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine, make the capillary effect work for the good cause of gluing the upper halves to the lower part. After the main adhesive seam has set, remove the tape and apply glue to the joints previously covered with masking tape.
The assembly must be completely dry before puttying and cleaning. Sanding the edges of the wing and the junction of the planes with the center section completes an important step in assembling the model. Now the model already looks like an airplane.
Collecting, as well as collecting aircraft models, takes special place among many various types hobby. When assembling a model from ready-made plastic parts, you should be as careful, accurate, patient and assiduous as possible. You should also have an idea of the history of the equipment that you began to collect.
To collect beautiful model airplane, the instructions included in the kit you purchased are not enough. In order to ensure that after assembly your model turns out without glue drips, its surface is smooth, with well-applied paint, you should study the basic rules of high-quality assembly. These basic rules will be discussed in today’s article.
So, let's move on directly to assembling a plastic model of an airplane, but for this you should purchase the kit that interests you. If you have not yet decided on your future choice, you can familiarize yourself with the large assortment of our store, as well as buy the one you liked. In our store you will find a variety of assembly kits, such as military equipment various periods, and civil ones.
Before you begin assembling the model, you should prepare necessary set tools, such as: a modeling knife, modeling and PVA glue, special modeling tape or tape, tweezers, sandpaper, brushes or an airbrush, as well as primer, putty and paints.
Then you should remove the entire contents of the set and check that all parts are present and that they are not damaged or deformed. If, after checking, all parts are in place and not damaged, proceed to the next step.
Next, you should prepare a workplace - it should be a large, spacious table, which is covered with a special model rug. The room where the aircraft will be assembled must be well lit and the light must be bright. If you have an airbrush and paint assembled structure will be produced by him, the room must be equipped with good ventilation.
An important factor is how the model will ultimately look. To do this, it is worth finding images of a real prototype of the selected model in historical literature or on the Internet.
Main assembly steps:
1. First of all, we select the sprues to which the main body parts are attached - these are the fuselage and wings. Carefully, using a modeling knife, we cut off the parts and process the attachment points to the sprues with sandpaper.
Separate the parts from the sprues sequentially, so as not to confuse their identity and place in the model in the future.
2. Next, we put the halves of the body together and secure it with modeling tape or tape. We also attach all the main parts to the structure using modeling tape or tape. Having made sure that all the parts fit together and clearly occupy their niches, we can begin gluing the aircraft together.
3. Before you start gluing the fuselage parts together, you should assemble and paint the cockpit. After the cabin has completely dried, we place it between the fuselage halves and begin gluing the halves together.
4. Now let's go directly to gluing models. Aircraft parts should be glued one at a time. Glue each subsequent part only after the previous one has dried. Try to apply the glue carefully, without leaving drips.
5. After gluing all the parts and the glue has completely dried, we perform grinding airplane models. This is done using sandpaper. This procedure is necessary to give flat surface designs.
6. Next we apply putty, to avoid all kinds of cracks, dents and other things at the joints between the wings and the body. Carefully apply putty to required areas, remove the remaining excess with a wet rag.
7. After the putty has completely dried, we sand the aircraft body again with sandpaper.
8. Having achieved smooth surface our building, let's move on to his priming. But before you do this, you need to degrease the body, for this you should use a special degreaser or alcohol. We also cover with modeling tape areas that should not be touched by the primer, such as the cockpit window and lights.
This procedure is necessary to identify imperfections on the surface of the aircraft model before painting it, and also to ensure that the paint lays down in an even layer and does not chip when drying.
The primer should be applied smoothly fast movements along or across the model. The can of primer should be kept 30 - 50 cm from the surface of the aircraft. Since soil is a toxic substance, the procedure should be performed with a respirator and gloves.
First we prime top part body and leave to dry for 30 - 40 minutes. After drying, prime the lower part, and now the model should dry for two days.
9. After the primer has completely dried, the aircraft body must be carefully sand. We perform this action until the surface becomes smooth.
10. Before painting, carefully blow off the model so that no dust particles or hairs remain on it. Only after this procedure do you begin painting the assembled model of the aircraft. Small parts should be painted without removing them from the sprue
Assembly is just part of the fun of working on a model. The final stage is interesting process is painting, applying decals and varnish to assembled model. And after completing all stages of assembly, painting and applying the final touches, the aircraft model you have assembled will take its rightful place in your home collection.