How to install a drainage system on a finished roof. Installation of a drainage system on the roof. Installation work - how to fix it correctly

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is installed. They are made from different materials, more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are substantial. You can save a little if you assemble the drain yourself. The features and installation procedure will be discussed further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common roof drains are made of galvanized metal. They may not be as attractive as more modern options, but they are reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What’s also good is that if you have the skill of a tinsmith or just have “straight” hands, you can make a drain out of galvanized steel with your own hands.

If we talk about other metal systems, two of them belong to the elite category - copper and an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer coating. They are quite affordable in price, you can’t fault them in appearance, and in durability – it depends on the manufacturer. If the technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of roof drainage - made from polymers. They can withstand ultraviolet radiation, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered the rather high price, especially from European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the low-cost systems category.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located along the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly; for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered unnecessary. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with an overlap of at least 30 cm and connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe must be made curved. For this, there are maple or universal rings (from some manufacturers). The drainpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the entire system.

A system of the required configuration is assembled from all these elements. If you decide to buy ready-made elements and then assemble the gutter yourself, the best solution is to have a house plan with dimensions on hand. Using it, you can quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate the required number of elements.

Installation features

Most of the questions arise about attaching brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made in one direction. If it is more, either they put an additional funnel (and a drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle in both directions.

When installing a drain with your own hands, you usually do this: nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed, taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the others are attached. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line you are focusing on. Usually this is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble level will do, but of a long length - at least a meter. You won’t be able to find your bearings with shorter ones at longer lengths.

Number of brackets and methods of attaching them

The number of brackets for installing a drain is calculated simply: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. To the resulting figure we add one (extreme bracket) and get the required quantity for one wall. All others are calculated similarly. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count one by one - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, please note that the brackets are nailed taking into account the created slope. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or a special tool - a hook bender (sold in the same place where gutters are made). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the range of 1/2 - 1/3. This way, most of the gutter “catches” water, which is important during heavy rainfalls.

At what level should I mount it?

Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is not much snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and attach it wherever you like. Otherwise, the gutter must be lowered so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “go away.”

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If you cannot lower the gutter lower, you will need to install snow guards on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow gradually melts and comes off in small fragments, without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snow melt looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are placed in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequences of actions. The first has a specially formed groove at the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, secured with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then pressed alternately into the locks on the front of the brackets.

The two fragments of the gutter must be connected using a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply laid overlapping with an overlap of 30 cm (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness, you can lay a strip of rubber between the two gutters and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel fastening

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues by installing funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, at a distance of about 20 cm from the edge of the gutter, a hole is cut out with a hand hacksaw. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - there is a high probability that the cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it is wound up to the second edge and fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of drainpipes

Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotating element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows the pipes to be brought closer to the wall and secured there. For fastening there are special clamps painted in the same color as the entire system. They come in different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that secure the pipe to the wall.

The clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into the drainage system (if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drainage pipe ends with a rotating element, which diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, you installed the drain yourself, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is placed on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow for less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true on tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done at the dacha and you need to spend a minimum for this? There are several very budget options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm or more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. The same diameter or slightly smaller can be used as drain pipes. It is more convenient to buy ready-made brackets, but in principle, you can make them yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, watch the video.

An even more budget-friendly option is drainpipes made from plastic bottles. They cannot make a normal gutter, but the pipe funnels work normally.

Drainage of waste water from the roof is a must to ensure the longevity of the roof. To do this, install a drainage system on the roof. You can do the work yourself or hire specialists for this purpose.

Atmospheric precipitation accumulates on the surface of the roof, which causes its destruction over time. Buildings with a pitched or flat roof are especially susceptible to this. Of course, you can initially build the rafter system at a certain angle, thanks to which the drains will be naturally drained from the surface of the house. But then the foundation may be washed away due to the strong flow of water from the roof.

Photo - drain for home

Benefits of using a gutter:

1. Increasing the efficiency of roof self-cleaning. When installed correctly, regardless of the coating material, maximum liquid drainage is ensured;
2. Protecting the building from erosion. You can direct the drain pipes to the drainage or to the garden at the dacha, which will help protect the foundation of the building;
3. Extends the longevity of metal and asphalt roofs. Regardless of the coating material, it is destroyed by prolonged exposure to moisture.

The quality of the coating does not depend on the material used. The fact is that in certain conditions you need to use a Modern metal profile (with a large amount of wastewater), and in some - plastic (if you live in regions with sudden temperature changes). Sometimes sandwich panels are also used.

Photo - water flow with pressure

Construction and materials

Depending on the type of drainage chosen, the system may consist of various additional elements. Main details:

1. Gutters;
2. Funnels;
3. Bends and plugs;
4. Fastening elements;
5. Couplings.

Photo - design of the drainage system

Each of these parts has its own purpose. Guide pipes are necessary to ensure the drainage of water to a certain place on the site and the intake of excess liquid from the roof. Galvanized metal and PVC are used for gutters. Funnels complement the main pipes; they are necessary to create a certain angle on the roof, with the help of which the maximum amount of liquid will fall into the gutter.

According to SNiP, for a complex roof it is necessary to use various bends and tees. They will help create the most effective method for collecting water from the roof surface. The entire system is installed using brackets, screws and other fasteners.

Video: how to install gutters yourself

Gutter installation

Before starting work, you need to calculate how much water needs to be drained from the roof. Please note that this indicator does not affect the installation process itself, but is necessary when choosing a specific ready-made drainage system (Hunter, Galeco and others).

Step by step instructions How to install a storm drainage system with your own hands:

1. The brackets are installed first. The fasteners are installed on the front board. To ensure that all hooks are located at the desired level, we recommend stretching the thread after installing the first one. According to SNiP rules, the minimum distance from the lowest rail should be no more than 25 mm;
2. The technology for installing fasteners necessarily includes taking into account the slope of the entire system. For every 10 meters you need to tilt up to 5 cm. It turns out that after installing the bracket, you determine the installation location of the next part and mount it 5 cm lower than the previous one;
3. Recommendations from experts on mounting brackets:
   • It is imperative to maintain the average selected distance. During the rainy or thaw season, a large amount of water will pass through the drain, so it is important that it is secured as rigidly as possible;
   • On average, the pitch of the hooks is no more than half a meter;
   • The general slope should be done gradually, without sudden transitions.
4. Next, in the places where the pipes are installed, you need to install water inlet funnels. They come in rectangular and round sections. There are different ways to install them. For example, for a plastic structure, special glue is used, and for a metal structure, clamps are used;

   

   Photo - water inlet funnel

5. It is imperative to install a grate in the receiving gutters, which will help protect the drains from dirt, fallen leaves and other debris;



All that remains is to connect the gutters and brackets. The pipes are threaded into the fasteners using grooved holes. These are available in TechnoNIKOL systems. You need to clamp the pipe until it clicks;

6. For galvanized steel and PVC siding (Plastmo, Murol), rubber plugs must be used. These parts will help ensure the system operates as expected. They are put on the very end of the gutter;

   

   Photo - stubs

7. The manual for builders states that it is necessary to secure the gutters together after installation. To do this, you will need special couplings and seals that will increase the efficiency and rigidity of the system;

   

   Photo – clamps

8. Afterwards, drainage elbows are attached to the panels. These drainage parts will help ensure that water drains from the roof at a certain angle and connect the different parts of the system to each other. The rules for their installation state that the distance between the pipe and the wall should be no more than 35 mm;

   

   Photo – knee

9. Next, the circuit is assigned as a constructor. To the very bottom of the system, the knees are threaded into each other and strengthened with clamps. If you use a metal profile (Ruflex, Alta-Profile or Rainway), then you must additionally install brackets to increase the rigidity of the drain;
10. It should be noted that the clamps for installing the drain on the wall of the house differ from the standard ones. They can be attached to bricks or foam blocks using dowels and screws;
11. The last step for installing a drainage system for a slate or tile roof is installing the drip line. It represents the knee turned in the other direction. To avoid having to dismantle it later, you need to calculate in advance the distance of the edge of the drain to the drain. 30–35 cm is considered optimal.

Tips from the professionals for gutter installation:

1. Before starting work, you must prepare the surface. Treat the boards with antiseptics and varnishes to extend their durability;
2. If the roof requires repairs, then it must be completed before installing the drainage system. Otherwise, a leaking roof will negatively affect the efficiency of the drain;
3. If you cannot cope with the task yourself, then you can turn to specialists for help. Calling a brigade will cost about 10,000 rubles per object.

Price overview

Now there are a huge number of different gutters on the market. The Bryza, Braas, Docke, Icopal Wijo TBS systems (with additional insulation) and others are very popular. Their advantage is durability, and also the fact that they can be installed on bitumen shingles, slate, metal profiles and even provide drainage on the balcony.

Photo – Ruukki 125 drain

Let's look at the price for installing a drainage system in different cities (the price is for Ruukki 125 mm pipes):

Prices may vary depending on the required gutter diameter. The total cost can also be reduced by using non-professional brackets and couplings.

Gutter systems made of polyvinyl chloride are much lighter and more practical than outdated metal options. Plastic kits are much easier to work with. Despite the installation rules common to previous varieties, they do not require labor efforts commensurate in severity.

True, it is impossible to successfully install a roof drain with your own hands without taking into account the specific qualities of polymer products. Let's figure out what independent installers of PVC drainage systems should know and follow.

Gutters made from polyvinyl chloride elements are structurally not much different from metal predecessors and prototypes. Kits produced by industry include similar parts from which horizontal and vertical branches of systems are mounted. Assembly and installation are carried out in an equal number of steps and in a similar sequence.

However, in the manufacture and installation of drainage “constructors” from PVC, the specific properties of products with a polymer base are strictly taken into account. This is a characteristic dimensional instability that manifests itself when the temperature background changes. Plastic parts are capable of increasing in a linear direction when heated and returning to their previous geometric boundaries when cooled.

A drain designed for outdoor use will naturally be cooled in the winter and heated in the hot summer. Following temperature fluctuations, it will lengthen and then shorten. It is difficult and unnecessary to interfere with the linear movements inherent in polymers. You just have to adapt to them. Those. take into account the specified qualities when designing and assembling the system.

For the construction of PVC drainage circuits, special compensating and connecting parts are produced. They allow the main elements of the system to lengthen and shorten without deformation or damage for the number of cycles promised by the manufacturer. Their design takes into account the possibility of some movement with a subsequent return to the original place.

In addition to the described feature, polymer products have another important quality that must be taken into account when attaching a PVC drain to the roof. This is a tendency to deform and sag in long sections that do not have supports.

To ensure that fairly flexible plastic gutters do not sag, the installation step of the holders under them cannot exceed 60 cm. Otherwise, the horizontal sections between the brackets will begin to sag under the weight of precipitation and from their own weight. Dirt will accumulate in the deflections and water will begin to stagnate, which in case of frost can simply tear the polymer gutter.

Stages of assembly and installation of a drainage system

The construction of a drain from PVC elements is carried out in a clear sequence. In general terms, the algorithm for constructing a drainage circuit includes the following types of work:

• Design. Drawing up a simple diagram with the selection of the optimal size of the system and calculation of the number of main parts required for the device and fastening components.
• Assembly and installation of the water intake part. It includes gutters and funnels that receive precipitation, collect it from the roof and direct it into drainage risers.
• Assembly and installation of the plumbing part. Those. drainage risers that direct an organized flow to a specific section of the blind area or to a storm drain.

The drainage system is installed exclusively in a top-down manner. This means that first the installation of water intakes is carried out, then the installation and connection of drainage risers. Strict adherence to successive stages is dictated by the technological features of the system and the technical characteristics of the material used in its production.

Strict Design Rules

When developing a project for installing a drain, it is necessary to comply with technological requirements that ensure normal operation of the circuit and unimpeded drainage of atmospheric water. To do this, you should deal with the following questions in advance:

• Optimal drainage configuration. Gable roofs are traditionally equipped with two separate gutters and equipped with a continuous contour of gutters arranged around the perimeter. The construction of the latter will require corner connecting parts.
• Number of risers. Every 12 m of polymer gutter must be equipped with one riser. If the length of the gutter, usually based on the length of the cornice, is more than 12 m, you will need two risers with conventional water inlet funnels and a compensating funnel.
• Application of compensating funnels. They are used in several cases: a) when constructing gutters longer than 12 m, b) when there are technical obstacles to expansion, for example, closely spaced walls of neighboring buildings, c) when installing a closed drainage system around the perimeter of the roof.
• Selection of gutter holders. Long or short hook-shaped brackets are used for installation. The long ones are attached to the sheathing before laying the covering, the short ones are fixed on the front board at any time, including after the roofing is installed.
• Maintaining the slope of the gutters. Depending on the brand of the system, the slope recommended by the manufacturer is indicated from 2 to 5 mm, distributed per 1 linear m of the water intake gutter. The slope is formed towards the drainage funnel by installing brackets with a height offset.

It is extremely important to determine the location of the risers during the design process. They should not spoil the exterior composition. The best option is to install them in the corners of the building. However, it is quite possible to place it in a niche created by a bay window or in the middle of the wall, if it is more convenient to make a receiving point for storm drainage there.

If the discharge of atmospheric water is planned to the blind area, then you just need to try to remove the risers from nearby pedestrian paths, foundation ventilation vents, and entrances to basements.

For drainage system designers, solving the problem with the location of drainage risers will be somewhat more difficult. Their vertical drainage branches must be tied to the load-bearing post of the frame, but fastening to an ordinary one is also permissible. Craftsmen installing a system for a house with siding should do the same.

The required number of parts for the construction of a drainage system should be calculated individually. In private construction, they are now trying to move away from standard design, and at the same time from roofs that are similar in design. However, there is a calculation template that will give you an idea of ​​how the calculations are performed.

Using an extremely simple scheme, a drainage system is calculated for a gable roof with slopes up to 12 m long. Let's assume that this is the case in our case, then we will need:

1. Gutters. You need to buy them by the meter according to the lengths of the cornices. Nothing will interfere with the linear thermal expansion of the gutters, so the 2.5 mm allowed for expansion compensation at each edge can be ignored.
2. Gutter connectors. If we take into account that their length is 3 m, then for each line of 12 m you will need 3 connecting elements.
3. Two funnels. One for each gutter.
4. Brackets. The number of hooks is calculated by simply dividing the length of the cornice into equal segments, each of which is up to 60 cm. Before dividing, 5 cm are retreated from both edges of the cornice.
5. Additional brackets. For a funnel located near the corner of the house, you will need one additional holder, for a funnel in the center of the wall - two.
6. Four gutter plugs. A pair for each branch.
7. Two upper and lower bends each for constructing a riser drain.
8. Two pieces of pipe to connect the elbows. They are used if the width of the eaves overhang exceeds 25 cm. The dimensions of the segments are determined in fact at the work site, and cutting is also done there. If the roof eaves are less than 25 cm, the knees are simply attached to each other.
9. Pipes for riser. They are determined by the distance from the eaves to the ground minus the lengths of the drainage outlet, drain and another 20 - 40 cm - this is the distance from the earth's surface.
10. Brackets for fastening risers. Two are required: one is installed near the lower elbow, the second near the drain from the drain riser. The rest are installed near each connection of drainpipes, but at least every 1.5 m.

Elements of a drainage system for a house with an attic are calculated using a similar method. The same applies if a drain is installed for multi-tiered sloped structures, but calculations are carried out for each slope separately.

But calculating the number of parts and fasteners for a half-hip will be significantly more difficult. Because to install them you will need at least four corner parts and two compensating connectors. The principle of using compensating funnels and connectors is the same as for linear individual sections. However, each closed circuit is equipped with parts to compensate for movements, regardless of the length of the largest cornice.

At the design and calculation stage, you need to decide on the diameter of the future system. Parts for collecting drains are available in several sizes to ensure the removal of atmospheric water in the required volume without overflowing. Precise selection of the size will also prevent the purchase of an overly large structure, which will look bulky and cost more than an option that is suitable in size.

According to technological recommendations, drains from 1 m² of roofing should take 1.5 cm² of the cross-section of the drainpipe. This is the average conditional coefficient for our middle band. In the southern regions, the indicated figure is 1.5 times higher.

Competent selection of the standard size of a prefabricated drainage structure begins with determining the roof area treated by one funnel with a riser connected to it. For example, from calculating the area of ​​the slope from our example.

The area of ​​the slope will need to be divided by 1.5, which will ultimately allow us to obtain the calculated cross-sectional value of the drain pipe. According to this value, usually rounded slightly upward, it is necessary to select the optimal size of the drain.

In practice, the area of ​​the slope above a private house is rarely more than 80 m². Therefore, they do not bother too much with calculations, but take an average Ø of pipes for a riser of 100 mm with deviations in both directions for roofs of larger and smaller areas.

Construction of the water intake part

Let's look at the process of assembling and installing a PVC drainage system using a specific example. According to the example, the installation of the drain is carried out after laying the covering using long metal brackets for gutters. Because Cement tiles are laid on the roof, which means it is possible to simply remove the bottom row by slightly lifting the tiles laid on top.

Let's assume that we will equip two separate slopes of a gable structure. The length of the eaves slope is 12 m, the width of the gable overhangs is 50 cm. We will position the funnel so that the riser connected to it runs 10 cm from the corner of the building. To do this, subtract the width of the gable overhang from the edge of the cornice by 50 cm and these same 10 cm.

First of all, let's install the long brackets:

1. Let's do a preliminary fitting. We will attach the outermost holder to the location of the upcoming installation. At the same time, we will install a rule or a regular rail directly on the slope. There should be 2 cm between the rule and the bent part of the hook.
2. Mark the bend point. In addition to the above condition, there is one more thing: the edge of the roofing must overlap the gutter by at least a third. Once we have found a point that meets both conditions, we place a mark on the bracket leg.
3. We find the slope to the drainage funnel. If, for example, a linear meter of cornice should be inclined by 3 mm, multiply them by 12 m, we get 36 mm. This is the difference in the bend height of the outer hooks. If, due to the large width of the gable overhang, the funnel is removed from the edge by almost a meter, then 33 mm will be enough for the slope.
4. Draw a fold line. To do this, we lay out the brackets in the quantity required for arranging one slope in a row and draw an inclined line on their legs. The point of the hook farthest from the funnel should be 3.6 cm higher than the point of the gutter holder next to the funnel.
5. We number the hooks that have passed the marking.
6. We bend the gutter holders. In this case, it is better to use a special bending device to optimize accuracy. Failing that, you can bend it using a vice, being careful not to damage the anti-corrosion shell.
7. We attach the two outer brackets to the sheathing. The outer holders should be 15 cm away from the edge of the roof.
8. We stretch one or two control lines between them. One must necessarily indicate the bottom, the second is used optionally to indicate the top point of the hooks, for example.
9. We install ordinary hooks according to the distance between them and the lines marked by the fishing line.

The most important stage has been completed; now we need to prepare the gutters and funnel for installation. To do this, we try again, but this time on the part of the gutter to which the drain riser will be attached through a funnel. Place a plastic funnel on the gutter to find the exact location to drill a hole for it.

Draw the outline of the hole with a marker without removing the funnel. Then, according to the mark, we will drill a hole in the gutter using a suitable bit. You can form a hole for the funnel with a hacksaw by making two counter cuts. The edges of the cuts or drilled holes must be cleaned with sandpaper.

We install the funnel, as expected, on the gutter and fix it with the help of its snap-on sides. Before installation, apply a strip of about 5 mm of glue to the inside of the funnel around the pipe. Two similar strips are applied around the hole. If we use a compensating funnel, we install it according to the divisions marked inside, related to the atmospheric temperature on the day of installation.

We begin installing the gutter on the brackets with a section with a funnel. To join the gutter parts together, we use connectors, on the edges of which on the inside, as well as on the edges of the connected gutters on the outside, glue is also applied in 5 mm strips.

We install and connect all the gutter parts onto the brackets. Then we attach the plugs, which we have every right to install before assembling the gutters. An adhesive composition is also applied to the inner sides of the plugs before installation.

Installation of a drain riser

The construction of the vertical part of the system begins with the assembly of the transition from the horizontal part of the drain to the vertical riser. For roofs with narrow eaves up to 25 cm, it is assembled by connecting the upper and lower knees. Owners of structures with wide eaves will have to overcome a wider scope of work.

Let's join their ranks to study the next stage of drainage construction:

1. We attach the upper elbow to the funnel pipe, first applying a strip of glue to it along the connection line at a distance of about 1 cm.
2. We are doing another fitting. We attach the lower elbow to the installation location on the wall. Use a ruler to measure the distance between your knees. Mark the position of the lower knee.
3. We determine the actual length of the connecting segment by adding to the distance between the knees the height of the pipe of the upper knee, onto which the segment will be put, and the height of the counter element of the lower knee.
4. We cut out the connecting segment according to the obtained dimensions. We clean the cut.
5. We assemble the transition and mark the point of the upper clamp for the drainpipe. It should be just below the lower knee. Mark the attachment point and again separate the lower elbow and connecting pipe from the upper elbow.
6. We install the clamp, securing it as it should be fixed according to technical rules on a wall made of a specific type of building material.
7. We assemble the transition, now fixing its components with glue. Apply the adhesive composition in 5 mm strips at a distance of about 1 cm from the edges.
8. We mark the installation points for the clamps for the drain riser, not forgetting that the lowest one should be located above the drain. The polymer drainage pipes are connected by couplings, under each of which a clamp must be installed.
9. We attach the riser parts, moving from top to bottom. We connect with couplings, leaving 1 - 1.5 cm in the sockets for free linear expansion of the pipes.
10. We do not tighten the riser clamps too tightly; the pipes should still be able to move slightly up/down.
11. We attach the drain to the lower pipe using glue. If you wish, you can cut the plums from the top with a hacksaw.

If you plan to drain rainwater into a storm drain, it is not necessary to connect a drain to the riser. In such cases, the pipe may end directly above the drainage drain at a distance of 5–10 cm from its surface.

To prevent clogging of the system from above, it is recommended to completely cover the gutter with a grate or at least install protective nets in the form of a crab on the funnels.

Video about the rules for installing PVC gutters

A visual demonstration of the assembly and fastening of a plastic drain will help you quickly and correctly complete the installation:

By following the rules for assembling and installing a drainage system made of polymer parts, you can successfully equip your roof with an excellent system for discharging atmospheric water.

This article is for home craftsmen who want to figure out how to properly install gutters on the roof, so as not to pay hired workers for what they can do very well themselves. After all, by and large, installing metal gutters is a real task. But there are nuances that only masters know about, and I am ready to reveal them.

Proper preparation is the main key to success

Do-it-yourself gutter installation, however, like any other work, always begins with careful preparation. For professionals, this has already been worked out at the level of instincts, but for a home craftsman, it’s better to take a sheet of paper and make a small plan for yourself.

Agree, it will be a shame if, in the midst of work, it suddenly turns out that some little thing is missing. Or worse, you missed an important editing step and will need to remove something to correct mistakes.

A few words about choosing a system

Since we are talking about how to install metal roofing flashings, it is worth saying a few words about what they are like:

• The most common in this direction are roof gutters made of galvanized steel.

These tides come in 2 types:

1. Bare galvanized steel, that is, only zinc coating is applied to the metal;
2. Galvanized steel with polymer coating.

The price of these tides differs by at least 2 times. If bare galvanization will cost you about 150 rubles per linear meter, then the cost of a drain with additional high-quality polymer protection starts at 320 rubles per meter;

When you decide, keep in mind: bare galvanized steel in a big city will last no more than 10 years, since acid rain will simply eat it up. Therefore, it is only suitable for rural areas and country cottages.

• Installation of aluminum pipes and gutters is in second place in popularity. Such systems all come with polymer coloring. Plus they weigh much less than steel ones. For a normal manufacturer, the price starts from about 700 rubles per month;

• There are also copper tides. But to be honest, I have never seen anyone install copper roof gutters on their own. It’s not that it’s difficult or difficult, it’s just that they cost at least 900 rubles per 1m/p, and those people who have such funds can often afford to hire craftsmen.

How to calculate low tides

Before you make a roof drain, you also need to calculate what kind of drain you need personally in your case. In this case we are talking about the cross-section of pipes and gutters.

Buying the largest section with a margin is also not an option:

• Firstly, on a small modest house, huge gutters will look, to put it mildly, ridiculous;
• And secondly, their price is much higher.

First of all, we need to find out the effective or usable roof area. Here, most home craftsmen, like me at one time, step on the same rake.

We all went to school and know that in order to calculate the area of ​​a flat figure, you need to multiply the length by the width. But this formula is not suitable for calculating the effective area of ​​a sloping roof. After all, we are dealing with an inclined plane.

The effective roof area with your own hands is calculated using a different formula (shown in the diagram below).

There is a small nuance here. If your roof has an inclination angle of up to 10º, then its usable area is calculated using the formula A * C = S.

Having the usable area of ​​your roof in hand, you can already look at the table and find out which pipes and gutters are best for you. But here, too, not everything is simple; you need to consider at what point in the gutter you are going to install the drain funnel with the drainpipe.

Keep in mind: when calculating the effective roof area, you do not need to count the entire area of ​​your roof; data on the largest plane is sufficient.

Now let's look at an example of how the number of elements of a drainage system is calculated. Suppose we have a hipped roof 12x6m, with a gable extension in the center of the building 6x2m.

Installation of gutters should be done at an angle. On average, the angle of inclination varies between 1–3 mm per 1 linear meter of gutter. Naturally, the bias is made towards the drain funnel. But if the length of the gutter exceeds 10 m in a straight line, then the slope must be made from the center in both directions and 2 drains must be installed at the edges.

As a rule, most reputable manufacturers produce gutters 3m and 4m long. Our large slope is 12m long, so you need to install 2 funnels on it along the edges, therefore, a house will need at least 4 funnels with sets of drainpipes and bends.

According to the rules, 4 drains are enough for such a house.

But based on my own experience, I would install a couple more drains on both sides of the central extension (they are shown with a dotted line in the diagram).

• As a result, you need to take 10 pieces of gutters 3 m long and 1 gutter 4 m long, it will later be cut in half and installed on both sides of the extension;
• There will be 4 external corners for such a system, plus 2 internal ones for arranging gutter turns next to the extension;
• This entire structure will be based on suspensions; according to the rules, they are mounted at intervals of about half a meter, which means that 68 brackets will be needed for the entire perimeter;
• The joints of the gutters and connections to the outer and inner corners are fixed with brackets with sealing rubber gaskets; in our case, 17 such brackets will be needed;
• Our roof drainage system runs along the entire perimeter, there is a gap only in the area of ​​the extension, therefore, we need 2 plugs there;
• Drainpipes are also sold in 3m and 4m lengths. The number of pipes varies depending on the extension of the roof (the distance from the wall to the edge of the roof) and the height of the roof above the ground; when calculating, you need to round up;
• But in any case, for the installation of each drain you will need 3 adapter elbows;
• Drainpipes are attached to the wall with special brackets; they are also available for stone walls. The distance between the brackets varies in the range of 1.5 - 2 m.

How to install a metal drain with your own hands

It is not so important what kind of metal your system is made of; all metal gutters are installed according to the same principle. There are, of course, small differences in the models, but they are not so great as to indicate different installation methods.

Naturally, installing a roof drain is unthinkable without a minimum set of tools, in particular you will need:

• Nylon thread to mark the level along the horizon;
• Hydraulic level;
• Screwdriver;
• Roulette;
• Hammer;
• Pliers;
• Bulgarian;
• Hacksaw for metal;
• Scissors for cutting metal, right and left;
• Roofing sealant and a construction gun for it.

Before attaching the gutter to the roof, you need to consider several important details:

• The roof slope should hang over the edge of the gutter by no more than a quarter, otherwise water will flow past the gutter during heavy rainfalls;

• If you continue an imaginary line along the roof slope, then this line should not intersect the outer edge of the gutter. This option is dangerous because when the snow melts in winter, the snow mass can simply tear off your gutter.

Now let's move on to the question of how to attach the gutter to the roof.

There are 2 options for installing brackets:

1. According to the first option, the hanging brackets are attached directly to the roof rafters or counter-lattice on these rafters;

1. The second option is more practical; it involves installing brackets directly on the frontal board.

Personally, I prefer installing the gutter on the front board. In this case, you are not “tied” to the roof. If the brackets are attached to the rafters, then even with minor repairs you will have to dismantle the roofing along the edge, otherwise you will not reach the bracket fastenings.

Plus, rafter hangers are more expensive.

But this is my personal opinion; for those who decided to attach hangers to the rafters, I will give some installation tips:

• To bend the hangers at the desired angle, you will need a strip bender;
• To maintain the desired slope of the gutter, the brackets should be marked before bending. To do this, fold them together and draw a horizontal line 10 mm above the future edge of the gutter;
• The hangers are mounted at intervals of half a meter, if we have 10 hangers in a package, then we measure 20 mm along the edge and draw a diagonal. This will indicate the bending points.

When bending the brackets, one more subtlety will need to be taken into account: the outer edge of the gutter should be lower than the inner edge by about 2 mm relative to the horizon line.

When installing the brackets on the front board, there is no need to measure or bend anything; all this has already been taken into account at the factory. But we still have to maintain the required angle of inclination, so 2 hangers are attached first along the edges of the frontal board at a distance of 150 mm from the edge of the roof.

A nylon thread is stretched between these brackets.

In this option, it is more convenient to measure the angle of inclination using a hydraulic level:

• First, the upper outermost suspension was secured;
• after this, the fixation point of the lower suspension was marked with a hydraulic level;
• secured it and pulled a cord between the two suspensions. This cord will become a guide for attaching intermediate suspensions.

First, a rubber gasket is inserted into the groove of the plug itself, after which it is put on the edge of the gutter until a characteristic click is heard.

But one rubber gasket is often not enough, so the joint will also need to be coated with bitumen-based roofing sealant. Please note that it is not silicone that is used, but roofing sealant.

Now we will need to cut a hole in the gutter for the drainpipe funnel and slightly bend the edges of this hole, making a so-called drip. It is better to make the hole in advance, while still on the ground.

Such a hole can be cut with a special crown inserted into an electric drill. But most often craftsmen do this with a hacksaw. First, the pipe is tried on and the gutter is marked, after which a sector in the gutter is cut out with a hacksaw.

To connect gutters on straight sections of the route, special seals are used. Before fixing this seal to the gutter, a rubber gasket is inserted into it. Please note that the gasket is inserted with the raised side facing the gutter.

The metal seal itself with a rubber gasket is first hooked onto the far edge of the gutter, then the bracket is put on the near edge, after which the lock on the seal snaps into place and is secured with a metal tongue. When the system is assembled, we need to go over all the joints from the inside with roofing sealant.

The metal funnel for the drainpipe has hooks on one side and several tongues on the other. We need to hook the funnel from below to the edge of the gutter, press it against the gutter and bend these several tabs inward.

Installation of a drainpipe is a separate issue. According to the rules, the vertical pipe should pass 5–7 cm from the wall. You can’t mount it closer, because the supporting brackets can get the wall wet. And if you move the pipe further, it won’t be beautiful.

The distance from the drainpipe to the wall of the house is 5 - 7 cm.

In the photo below there is another table, according to which the length of the pipes is calculated, and elbows and adapters are installed.

Many home craftsmen “stumble” on one little thing: at the top, immediately between the first and second drain elbow, as a rule, you need to insert a small sector of an inclined pipe. So, when you measure this sector, do not forget to allow for those parts of the pipe that will go into the elbow, this is approximately 4 cm on each side.

In general, our metal drainage system is installed. Now all that remains is to install one more elbow on the pipe from below; it is needed to compensate for the high water pressure. According to the rules, this knee should be 20 cm from the ground, but in practice it is installed as you like.

To install the upper inclined sector of the drainpipe, meter-long adapters are sold, in which one of the sides is equipped with an expander. The thing is convenient, but this meter of pipe costs 600 rubles, and in most cases up to half a meter is used, the rest is stored in a closet until better times.

There is a little trick here: we won’t be able to stretch the end of the trim and make the same expander; for this we need equipment. But we are quite capable of narrowing the pipe a little so that it fits into the elbow. To do this, take pliers and make bends around the perimeter, as in the photo below.

In a snowy winter, there is a fairly high risk of tearing off or at least bending the suspensions on the gutters. After such an accident, restoring the correct slope of the gutter is more difficult than installing a new gutter.

I borrowed a good technique from one experienced craftsman: each bracket is suspended from the edge of the roof using a metal strip. To do this, we make holes in the suspension itself and in the edge of the roof, attach a strip and fix it with rivets or self-tapping screws.

The biggest problem with absolutely all gutters is clogging with leaves and dirt. We can’t cope with dirt, but it’s quite possible to protect ourselves from large debris.

Now a special plastic mesh is sold for this purpose to protect gutters from debris. You cut the required length, roll the mesh into a roll and fix it in this position with plastic clamps. Then all you have to do is put this roll in the chute.

Conclusion

The home craftsman needs to pay special attention to two stages: a detailed calculation and the actual installation of the system; in this material, these stages are described in detail. In the photos and videos in this article you will find a number of other professional nuances. And if you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

To properly install roof gutters, you need to take care of this at the building design stage. This will make it possible to choose the optimal version of the system not only taking into account its cost, but also depending on the engineering features of individual structures. Mainly the type of fastening of gutters, there are options for fixing these elements of gutters to the sheathing, and there are options for fastening to the eaves board. The work consists of several stages, each of which has a significant impact on the final quality of fastening the gutters and their functionality.

It is impossible to install gutters correctly without prior planning. What should I do?

Despite the features of roofing systems and differences in roofing systems, there are general installation rules for all types of structures.

Complete set of spillways

The configuration and structural characteristics of the systems have a significant impact on the methods of installing gutters on the roof of houses.

What are the main elements of gutters?

Item name	Description and installation features
	They are used for fastening gutters; they can be fixed to sheathing boards (hooks) or to the eaves strip (brackets). The first (hooks) are made only from a metal strip and are bent to give a slope to the drainage system manually during installation. The main feature is the need for installation before the start of roofing work, otherwise the first row of coverings will have to be dismantled. Currently considered an obsolete design and rarely used. More often, brackets are used that are fixed to the eaves board or rafter overhangs. Can be made of plastic or metal. The most modern models have the ability to precisely adjust the position of the gutter after attaching the elements to the board.
	They take water from the slopes and direct it to the funnels. They are mounted along the entire perimeter of the building with a slope of up to 4–5 mm per linear meter. They can be round or square in shape; there are options for making gutters yourself. Installation is done after completion of the roofing work. To protect elements from falling snow, snow guards can be additionally used; this is an active method. A passive method of protecting gutters from mechanical damage is to maintain the difference in height between the continuation of the roof projection and the upper edge of the drainage system element. For proper installation, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations of the roof; the parameters of the gutters are selected depending on the area of ​​the slopes. Simultaneously with this data, you need to calculate the number of funnels. They must have time to pass all the rainwater during peak loads; one funnel per 10 m of gutter is recommended.
	Most often they have an angle of 90°, but sometimes they are also found with an angle of 135°. To seal the joints with the gutter, rubber or adhesive seals are used. During installation, you should pay attention that the distance from the corners of rotation to the brackets does not exceed 10–15 cm. The strength of the system in these places is lower; a more reliable suspension is required.
	They are installed on gutters and direct the water they collect into vertical pipes. Correct fastening is impossible without preliminary calculation; installation of one funnel for every 10 m of gutters is considered universal. But a specific decision should be made after a careful analysis of the slope area and maximum precipitation in a given climatic zone. Funnels can be pass-through (mounted anywhere in the gutter) and left or right. The latter are installed only at the ends of the system; the design has special plugs, which simplifies the installation process and increases the reliability of the entire system.
	They allow you to change the direction of water flow and connect several elements of the system to one vertical pipe. They are inserted into a socket-type connection; during installation, you need to pay attention to the direction of the elements in relation to the movement of water.
	During installation, it is necessary to monitor the distance between the points of fixation of the elements; depending on the material of manufacture and the diameter of the pipe, it ranges from 1.2–1.8 m. The type of fixation to the facade wall changes depending on the materials of its manufacture. Clamps can be plastic or metal.
	They have different lengths, but most manufacturers adhere to the standard of 3 m. The diameter is selected taking into account the water debit; the quantity, installation location and total length are calculated before the installation of the drainage system begins.

Basic mistakes in installing roof gutters

Correct installation of the system guarantees not only high efficiency, but also durability of the drainage systems. Metal products can become deformed from excessive loads caused by gross violations of installation technology, while plastic products crack and require complete replacement.

What mistakes do inexperienced roofers often make?

1. Incorrect slope of gutters. To ensure normal water drainage, it is recommended to make the slope within the range of 3–5 mm per linear meter. If the slope is greater, then at the end of the slope the gutter is too far from the edge of the roofing and water does not enter it. If the slope is insufficient or the mounting line of the brackets is not straight, then stagnant areas will form. Dust and dirt quickly accumulate in them, then mosses grow, completely blocking the lumen of the gutter. As a result, the drainage system stops working and the gutter needs to be cleaned. Doing this is difficult and time-consuming, and correcting a mistake is not always possible. Sometimes it is necessary to undermine the installed roof, which always has negative consequences in the future.

   

2. Insufficient number of brackets. All designs are designed for the maximum possible bending load; taking this data into account, manufacturers recommend the optimal distance between fixation points. For plastic structures, the brackets should be no more than 50 cm apart; for metal ones, this parameter increases to 60 cm. You should never skimp on the number of brackets; the cost of several elements is incomparably lower than the cost of eliminating negative consequences.

   

3. Incorrect coupling connection. Due to technology violations, leaks appear in these places. Rubber elements or adhesive joints are used as seals. During installation, every effort should be made to ensure complete tightness and high reliability of all connections. Additional brackets must be installed on both sides of the coupling element.

   

4. Violation of the recommended spatial position of the gutter. If you continue the roof plane, it should pass above the rear edge of the gutter at a distance of approximately 20-25 mm. Why exactly these parameters? Only they simultaneously ensure safe rapid removal of snow from the roof and complete intake of all rainwater. Reducing the gap will cause snow or ice to damage the integrity of the gutter, and increasing it will cause water to enter the ground rather than into the gutter. Another dimension must be strictly observed - the vertical projection of the edge of the roofing should be located as close as possible to the center of the gutter. The permissible deviation cannot exceed 1/3 of its width. Failure to comply with this parameter also causes rainwater to flow past the drainage system.

   

Each type of system has its own minor design differences, but they only affect the installation technology, and the principles are common to all.

Video - How to calculate a drainage system?

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Work should begin only after a sketch of the drainage system has been drawn, fixation locations and the number of brackets and clamps have been determined. The sketch shows areas for installing funnels and vertical drain pipes with all elbows and couplings. The nomenclature and quantity of materials are known, all elements have been purchased.

Step 1. Reinstall the drainage system funnel; it should be located at the lowest point of the eaves board.

Before fastening, use a bubble level or any level strip to check the correct position of the element. Place a level on the roofing, raise/lower the funnel until its opposite side is positioned at a distance of ≈ 2 cm from the bottom plane of the tool. Mark the places where the funnel is fixed.

Remember that the roof edge protrusion should not exceed 1/3 of the gutter diameter. If errors were made during the installation of the eaves (front) board or roof, they should be corrected. The optimal solution is to adjust the position of the board, tear it off and shorten or lengthen the fillets of the rafter system.

Step 2. Fix the brackets on both sides of the funnel, the distance between the elements is 2–3 cm.

Step 3. Install brackets to secure the gutters. In our example, they are plastic and are fixed to the cornice board. There is an option for attaching brackets made of metal strips to the sheathing; they must be installed before covering the roof.

There are two ways to properly install brackets.

First

Second

The control thread can be pulled with emphasis on the upper surface of the brackets. A specific decision should be made on site, taking into account the location of the elements and the features of the roof of the building.

The slope of the brackets is 2 cm by 10 m

Practical advice. Well-known manufacturers offer universal hooks for attaching gutters. They are fixed to the sheathing and have two degrees of adjustment: vertical position and angle of inclination. This allows you to insert all position parameters after screwing the element to the rafter system and completing the roof covering. Metal hooks are also installed up to the roof coverings, but the hooks are not adjustable; the correct installation process should be done immediately using one of the described methods.

Step 4. After fixing all the brackets, you can begin assembling and installing the gutter. It is recommended to cut elements with an ordinary hacksaw or a grinder with an abrasive disc. Clean the ends with a sharp knife; they are easily cut along the line.

Practical advice. To properly install the funnel and connect it to the gutters, use a gas lighter to slightly heat the edges of the cut and, while the plastic is warm, bend it in the right place. This simple operation will ensure that the water completely drains from the gutter into the funnel.

On the inside of the funnel there are lines with numbers printed on them. These marks indicate the optimal position of the ends of the gutters, which corresponds to the air temperature at the time of installation of the elements. Be sure to follow this condition. The fact is that plastics have large coefficients of thermal expansion; if the recommendations are not followed, there is a risk of swelling or the ends falling out of the funnel.

Important. It is strictly prohibited to glue or use additional sealants to connect the gutters in this type of funnel. Individual elements should be able to move slightly in one direction or another depending on fluctuations in ambient temperature.

To increase the length of the gutters, special connectors are used; they are glued and snapped into place. You need special glue; it is sold complete with the drainage system. The turning corners of the gutters are also glued to the glue. A minimum of three strips of adhesive, each approximately 5mm thick, is required. The couplings are put on the chute and turned until they click. The distance of the brackets to the angle of rotation is no more than 5 cm. In the places where the turns are attached, clamps are additionally installed, they increase the reliability and stability of the assembled units, and eliminate the occurrence of excessive bending loads.

Step 6. Install plugs on the gutters; they are also glued with a special compound.

There are options when manufacturers use rubber gaskets instead of glue. This method of sealing is less reliable; rubber parts lose their plasticity over time and leaks may appear in some places. The use of silicone sealants as a supplement is ineffective. Under the influence of moisture and freezing temperatures, silicone will peel off from the plastic in the second year of operation of the drainage system.

If the installation scheme of the drainage system assumes the presence of two ends of the gutters on one slope, then their arrangement is carried out in this order.

At this point, the installation of the horizontal elements of the drainage system is completed; the installation of vertical pipes can begin.

Installation of vertical drainage systems

The complexity of the work is that the vertical bends have several angles for connecting to the funnel. The number of different turns depends on the architectural features of the building.

Step 1. Measure the distance from the funnel to the wall of the house, select two corners and measure the length of the coupling sections. The missing distance should be increased with a piece of straight pipe. It is cut with a hacksaw or grinder; the edges must be cleaned of burrs.

Step 2. Glue the top elbow to the funnel, the rest should only be inserted. The upper elbow is made non-separable for one reason - it is impossible to fasten the clamp in this place, the elbow is only supported by the funnel.

Step 3. Mark the mounting locations for the pipe clamps. There are two ways to do this. The first is to mark a vertical line along the entire height of the house and drill holes for clamps on it at the required distance. The second is to use a level to mark the installation points of the elements one by one for each clamp, and maintain the vertical position with the level. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, make your decision on the spot based on your qualifications.

Marking the position of pipe clamps

Step 4. Drill a hole for the plastic dowel and secure the base of the clamp. Work carefully; if you use excessive force, the plastic may crack and you will have to replace the element with a new one.

If the wall of the house has a layer of insulation made of foam plastic or mineral wool, then the length of the dowel should be increased so that there is a hole in the solid wall with a depth of at least 3 cm.

Step 5. Insert the pipe into the corner and secure its position with a clamp. Manufacturers recommend installing at least two clamps on one whole section of pipe; you will get two on each side near each coupling.

There are letter designations on the plastic clamps. The top clamp is screwed so that the arrow points to the letter “A” on the stand.

The lower clamp is fixed in position “B”, the arrow should point to this letter. The fact is that the clamp holders have different thicknesses of the thrust surfaces, the arrow points to a reinforced one, it is in this direction that the main forces will act.

If, due to the size of the building, it is necessary to connect two pipes, then a gap must be left in the coupling for their free movement. The gap width is at least two centimeters.

The installation work ends with gluing the elbow to supply water to the blind area, to the receiver of the reclamation system or to a container for collecting rainwater. Then it is used for irrigation or other economic purposes.

Video - Correct installation of the drainage system