Making a radio-controlled glider from a ceiling with your own hands is very simple!
In fact, to make it you only need to download the aircraft model drawings located at the end of the article, cut out the parts and glue them together!
The drawings represent general view and a breakdown of the following picture on A4.
As a result of manufacturing, you will get such an aircraft model.
If you wish, you can scale the drawing to suit your tasks, for example, enlarge it.
Let's look at a few aspects of production.
The fuselage is very simple to manufacture - actually a rectangular box.
A piece of plywood or a piece of wooden ruler is glued to the nose of the aircraft model, and the engine motor mount is attached to it.
The wing has a pronounced V, usually from 3 to 5 degrees on model airplanes without ailerons.
KFM5 profile, see more about such profiles.
Where the wing meets the fuselage, additional layers of the ceiling are glued. The wing is fastened using rubber bands; bamboo skewers or pieces of a wooden ruler are used as protrusions for fastening the rubber bands.
The servos and receiver are placed under the wing, the battery is placed at the center of gravity (CG) of the aircraft model, this allows the use of batteries of different weights without shifting the CG.
Servos 5-9 grams, any receiver from 3 channels. Motor 2205-2208 with 1800-2600 rpm. Propeller 6x3-6x4, preferably folding, battery 2S 350-450 mAh.
- Download glider drawings Can .
The glider has smooth curves of the wing, stabilizer and keel (Fig. 1). This shape improves the flight performance of the model. In addition, all connections of parts are made using glue, without the use of metal corners. Thanks to this, the glider is very light, which improves its flight qualities.
And finally, the wing of this model is raised above the fuselage rail and secured with wire struts. This device increases the stability of the model in flight.
Working on the model.
We'll start working on the model by drawing working drawings.
The model's fuselage consists of a 700 mm long rail with a cross-section of 10X6 mm in the nose and 7X5 mm in the tail. For the weight you need a board 8-10 mm thick and 60 mm wide made of pine or linden.
We cut out the weight with a knife and process its ends with a file and sandpaper. The ledge at the top of the weight will accommodate the front end of the rack.
Now let's start making the wing. Both of its edges should be 680 long and 4X4 mm in section. We will make two end roundings for the wing from aluminum wire with a diameter of 2 mm or from pine slats with a length of 250 mm and a cross section of 4X4 mm.
Before bending, soak the slats in hot water for 15-20 minutes. The mold for making smooth curves can be glass or tin cans or bottles of the desired size. In our model, the molds for the wing should have a diameter of 110 mm, and for the stabilizer and fin - 85 mm. Having steamed the slats, we wrap each of them tightly around the jar and tie the ends together with an elastic band or thread. Bend this way required quantity slats, leave them to dry (Fig. 2 a).
Rice. 2 Making the wing. a - obtaining roundings; b - connection "on the mustache"
Rounding can be done in another way. Let's draw a rounding on a separate sheet of paper and place this drawing on the board. Drive nails along the contour of the curve. Having tied the steamed strip to one of the nails, we begin to carefully bend it. We tie the ends of the slats together with an elastic band or thread and leave until completely dry.
We connect the ends of the curves with the edges “on the mustache”. To do this, we cut off the connecting ends at a distance of 30 mm from each of them, as shown in Fig. 2, b, and carefully adjust them to each other so that there is no gap between them. Apply glue to the joints, carefully wrap them with thread and coat the top with glue again. It should be borne in mind that the longer the miter joint, the stronger it is.
We bend the ribs for the wing on a machine. We will accurately mark their installation locations according to the drawing. After each operation (installation of rib roundings), we will put the wing on the drawing to make sure the assembly is correct.
Then we will look at the wing from the end and check if any rib protrudes above the other “hump”.
After the glue at the junction of the ribs and the edges has dried, it is necessary to give the wing a transverse angle V. Before bending, soak the middle of the wing edges under a tap with a stream of hot water and heat the bend over the fire of an alcohol lamp, candle or over a soldering iron.
We will not move the heated part above the flame, so that the rail does not break due to overheating. We will bend the rail until the heating area remains hot, and release it only after it has cooled down.
Let's check the transverse angle V by placing the end of the wing against the drawing. Having bent one edge, bend the other in the same way. Let's check whether the transverse V angle is the same on both edges - it should be 8° on each side.
The wing mount consists of two V-shaped struts (struts) curved from steel wire with a diameter of 0.75-1.0 mm and a pine plank with a length of 140 mm and a cross-section of 6X3 mm. The dimensions and shape of the struts are shown in Fig. 3.
Rice. 3 Wing mount.
The struts are attached to the edges of the wing with thread and glue. As can be seen from the picture, the front strut is higher than the rear one. As a result, the wing installation angle is formed.
We will make the stabilizer from two slats 400 mm long, and the keel from one such slat.
Let's steam the slats and bend them, using a jar with a diameter of 85 - 90 mm as a mold. In order to attach the stabilizer to the fuselage rail, we plan a strip 110 mm long and 3 mm high. We will tie the front and rear edges of the stabilizer in the center with threads to this bar.
Let's sharpen the ends of the keel's rounding, make holes in the strip next to the edges of the stabilizer and insert the pointed ends of the keel into them (Fig. 4).
Now you can start covering the model with tissue paper. We will cover the wing and stabilizer only on top, and the fin on both sides.
Model assembly.
Let's start assembling the model with the tail: we will place the stabilizer on the rear end of the fuselage rail and wrap an elastic band around the front and rear ends of the connecting strip together with the rail.
To launch the model on the rail, we will make two hooks from steel wire and tie them with threads to the fuselage rail between the leading edge of the wing and the center of gravity of the model. The first launches of the model will be carried out from the front hook.
Running the model.
Once you make sure that the launch is successful, you can launch the model from the second hook.
It should be borne in mind that in windy weather it is better to launch the model from the front hook, and in calm weather - from the rear.
People invented the glider a long time ago: it appeared much earlier than the airplane. Thinking about flying through the air many hundreds of years ago, people could not imagine flying otherwise than on a device that looked like a bird and necessarily flapped its wings. These thoughts are reflected in the works of the brilliant Italian scientist and artist Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), who left behind a number of sketches of flapping aircraft (Fig. 80). Flight by flapping wings is also spoken of in ancient legends, for example in the ancient Greek myth of Daedalus. This is the myth.
The Greek sculptor and architect Daedalus was invited by the king of the island of Crete, Minos, to perform a number of works. However, Minos did not want to let Daedalus and his young son Icarus go when the work required by the contract was completed. Under various pretexts, he prevented the sculptor’s departure, forbidding him to be accepted onto ships or given a boat.
Daedalus firmly decided to return to his homeland. Being a skilled builder, he found a means for this: by collecting large number bird feathers, he made four large wings from them using thread and wax, for himself and Icarus.
Having attached these wings to their backs, Daedalus and Icarus jumped from the tower in which they were imprisoned and flew over the sea, flapping their wings. Delighted by the feeling of flight, Icarus rose higher and higher, despite his father’s warnings, and approached the sun. The wax that connected the feathers was melted by the hot rays of the sun, the wings crumbled and Icarus fell into the sea...
This is the legend. Attempts to fly were made much later. However, eventually people realized that human muscular strength was not enough to imitate the flapping flight of birds. But the bird often flies without flapping, glides or soars in the air with motionless wings.
Noticing this, the inventors took a new path - the path of creating gliders. In Russia, as indicated in the manuscript of Daniil Zatochnik, found in the Chudov Monastery, such attempts were made even before the 13th century: even then people were able to make short gliding flights.
However, only at the end of the last century did scientists and engineers turn to creating a glider. Similar experiments were carried out by A.F. Mozhaisky. Before building his plane, Mozhaisky conducted long-term research with snake gliders. However, having decided not to be distracted from the main task - creating an airplane (which he completed in 1882), Mozhaisky abandoned his experiments with gliders.
Mozhaisky’s works were continued in the works of S.S. Nezhdaovsky, who in the 90s of the 19th century built a number of glider models that flew stably and well after uncoupling from the cable on which these gliders were launched.
Of great interest were the flights of the German explorer Otto Lilienthal, who, continuing the experiments of his predecessors, performed from 1891 to 1896 about 2,000 gliding flights on gliders designed and built by him. In August 1896, Lilienthal suffered an accident and died.
The word “balanced” means that the glider maintains balance during flight by balancing his body (Fig. 81).
Professor N. E. Zhukovsky promoted gliding flights in Russia. From among Zhukovsky’s students a whole generation of Russian planoists grew up: B. I. Rossiiskin, A. V. Shiukov, K. K. Artseulov, P. N. Nesterov, G. S. Tereverko and others. Many of them began their flights on balance planes gliders.
Advances in the field of aircraft production interrupted work on gliders for a fairly long period of time. They returned to them after the First World War of 1914-1918. The construction of gliders and flights on them were especially persistent
Germans.
They had this special reasons: Germany was defeated in the First World War and was deprived of the right to build military aircraft and have military aviation and corresponding flight personnel.
The Germans managed to circumvent the ban on the production of military aircraft - they began to build them in other countries. But the pilots had to be trained in Germany itself. It was for this purpose that the glider came in handy, as it made it possible to quickly and without high costs train pilots.
Many other countries followed the German example. Special schools emerged to train glider pilots. Aviation factories began to produce gliders for training purposes - simple, cheap and unpretentious machines that were not difficult to build in handicraft workshops.
It was soon discovered that light gliders were capable of not only gliding, but also soaring, gaining greater height, and perform many aerobatic maneuvers. This allowed, along with flight training, to carry out sports work. Competitions for flight range and duration, height and load capacity, performance of figures, etc. became true celebrations of gliding. They attracted a large number of young people to gliding schools and aviation and turned gliding flights into a mass sports movement - gliding.
The various sports and technical tasks that arose before glider pilots required the design and construction of special types of gliders. There was a division of gliders into training and sports.
Later, military experts came to the conclusion that gliders, like aircraft, have low cost with high aerodynamic qualities, transport and then landing gliders may have appeared in time.
A landing is the landing of troops on enemy territory. Previously, amphibious assaults were known. With the advent of aviation, airborne assaults also became possible: troops were landed on enemy territory from airplanes or gliders, which for this purpose flew behind enemy lines and landed there. If it was impossible to land, they began to drop troops and weapons by parachute (parachute landings).
The first gliders - balanced ones - took off very easily. The glider pilot, pulling the longitudinal bars above his waist, kept the glider suspended. Standing against the wind on a fairly steep slope (Fig. 81), he ran down it against the wind until he felt that the wings provided sufficient lift. Then, pulling his legs up, the glider pilot let the device fly, while he himself only cared about maintaining balance.
On a balanced glider, the glider hangs by his hands all the time. You cannot fly like this for a long time, since the glider, meeting the flow at full height, increases the resistance of the glider. Therefore, balance gliders were abandoned long ago.
In Fig. 82,a and 82,6 show a modern record glider. Its basis is narrow and long wings. They are mounted on a streamlined fuselage. At the front of the fuselage there is a cabin in which the glider is placed. The cockpit contains instruments that allow the glider to control the altitude and speed of flight - altitude indicators (altimeter) and speed indicators. They are located on the dashboard. There is also a device that indicates the vertical gliding speed - a variometer.
The glider pilot sits behind a large transparent “glass” (it is curved from transparent plastic). The glider's feet rest on the pedals: by turning them, he sets the rudder in motion. The glider's right hand holds the elevator control handle. The handle and pedal are connected to the steering wheels using cables. By moving the handle sideways, you can control the ailerons and use them to tilt the glider or correct accidental rolls.
Such a glider takes off and lands on a special ski.
To take off a glider, launching on a rubber cord (shock absorber) was often used in the past. The middle of a long rubber shock absorber was attached to a hook in the nose of the glider. The glider was secured to the ground with a special device. The starting team, splitting into two parts, began to tighten the free ends of the shock absorber, slightly diverging to the sides (Fig. 83). When the resulting giant slingshot was sufficiently stretched, the glider, using a handle located in the cockpit, released the glider from the stopper, and the glider was thrown into the air.
This launch can be done on a fairly steep slope. Therefore, having taken off on a shock absorber, the glider can glide as long as there is a slope.
The described start requires slopes that are not available everywhere. In addition, it throws the glider to a low altitude. For this reason, many other methods of launching a glider have long been used.
One of them can be called a motor start. It works like this. A motorized winch is installed in front of the glider, at the required distance from it. The cable from it stretches to the glider. At a signal from the pilot, the operator turns on the winch drum, and the cable begins to “climb out” at normal speed and pulls the glider, which, having taken off from the ground, goes higher and higher. At the right moment, the glider releases the cable and goes into free flight.
Another method is to have the plane towed by an airplane. The plane and glider are connected by a tow rope and take off together. Having reached a given altitude, which can be high, the glider detaches and goes into free flight.
Towing gliders by airplane is also used in cases where it is necessary to transport gliders over long distances. Sometimes, if the aircraft has required power, he is towing two or three or more gliders. The combination of an airplane and towed gliders is called an air train.
Free flight on a glider is of great interest. As you know, when gliding along an inclined trajectory, a glider travels some distance every second. If during the same second the air, in turn, rises, then, carrying the glider with it, it will lift it too. As a result, if the speed of the upward air flow is sufficiently high - greater than the speed of descent of the glider in still air - then in 1 second the glider will not be at point B (Fig. 84), as it would be in the absence of upward flows, but at point B , lying higher than the starting point A.
Such flight in updrafts, without loss of altitude or with its gain, is called soaring. And how ascending currents arise, look A LITTLE THEORY. AIR, PROPERTIES, RESEARCH.
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During the era of glider development, former Soviet air athletes achieved outstanding success in all areas of gliding. If in pre-revolutionary Russia only a few individuals were involved in glider flights, then after the Great October Socialist Revolution hundreds and thousands of people began to engage in this sport.
Already in 1921 in Moscow, a group of military pilots organized the “Soaring Flight” gliding circle. Members of the circle not only designed and built gliders themselves, but also carried out organizational and propaganda work. By 1923, they organized up to 10 gliding circles: in Moscow. Voronezh, Kharkov, Podolsk, Narofominsk, etc.
In two Moscow circles - “Soaring Flight” and the Academy of the Air Fleet - gliders of the system of K. K-Artseulov, B. I. Cheranovsky and now an honored worker of science and technology, and then a student of the Academy - V. S. Pyshnov were built. The then student and now famous designer of the famous Il aircraft S.V. Ilyushin began his activities in the Academy circle.
In 1923, the newly organized Society of Friends of the Air Fleet, together with the leaders of the Soaring Flight circle, prepared the first all-Union gathering of glider pilots, which took place in November 1923 in the Crimea, in the town of Koktebel, not far from Feodosia. And although only 10 gliders took part in the rally, it was here that the foundations of Soviet gliding sport were laid.
In 1925, there were already more than 250 glider circles in the USSR, uniting several thousand people.
In 1925, our glider pilots took part in the International Glider Competitions in Rhone (Germany), from where they returned with four honorary prizes. In the same year, 1925, foreign glider pilots flew at the starts of the third all-Union meeting of glider pilots. Here our glider pilots won two world records.
In subsequent years, Soviet athletes set one record after another.
In 1936, the master of Soviet gliding V. M. Ilchenko set the first official international record for flight range on a multi-seat glider, covering a distance of 133.4 km. In 1938, he brought this record to 552.1 km. In 1937, glider pilot Rastorguev on a single-seat Groshev glider (GN-7) showed a range of 652.3 km. Two years later, Olga Klepikova increased the range to 749.2 km. And finally, after a break caused by the Great Patriotic War, Ilchenko set a new outstanding record for glider flight range, landing at a point 825 km away from the take-off point in a straight line.
Of course, gliders are now a thing of the historical past in aviation. But nevertheless, they are used by both private individuals and government agencies mainly for training and familiarization with flight practice.
Aircraft modelers, in essence, are younger brothers glider pilots and professional pilots. By practicing in building simple models, they nevertheless acquire the necessary skills and knowledge in the process and launch of models. However, it is not immediately possible to obtain high knowledge and good skills. You always have to start with something simpler.
This chapter describes the simplest glider model with which it is recommended to start working on gliders. It is called a schematic model of an airframe.
SCHEMATICAL MODEL OF THE glider
Previously, descriptions of the large gliders on which our glider pilots fly have already been given. Now look at Fig. 85: This is a schematic model of the airframe. We see that instead of a thick fuselage that can accommodate the glider (and sometimes several people), our model has only a rail. Instead of the thick wings and empennage that every real glider has, our model has a thin wing and an equally thin stabilizer and fin.
True, in the forward part of the rack there is a weight (Fig. 85), which gives the rack some resemblance to the fuselage, but this similarity exists while we are looking at the model from the side, and looking at it from the front, we will notice that the load is flat and has almost no volume has.
That is why the model is called schematic, i.e., resembling a real glider (according to the diagram), but still different from it, since it does not have a fuselage.
The model is very simple in its design. In addition to a long and thin rail, on the nose of which a wooden “weight” is nailed, it has a wing (Fig. 86) and tail, consisting of a keel and stabilizer.
The wing, if you look at the model from above, has a trapezoidal shape, and in front - a transverse V, familiar to us from paper models. The wing frame consists of leading and trailing edges connected by ribs. Of the seven ribs, both extreme ones are straight, the rest are slightly curved. Under the central rib there is a bar with which the wing is attached to the rail.
Rice. 86. Schematic model of a glider in three views: at the top - side view, in the middle - top view, below - view
The stabilizer is a rectangular frame, and the keel has the shape of a trapezoid. The covering - made of thin (cigarette) paper - is glued to the wing and stabilizer on top. The keel is covered on both sides.
Two small nail-hooks are driven into the rail under the wing (Fig. 86). These hooks are used to launch the model on a thread (rail).
Without a drawing it is difficult to build a model correctly. Drawings in technology are used always and everywhere when you need to build something or depict a device.
A drawing of a model is its image in several projections. These projections are obtained like this. In Fig. 87 shows a model hanging in the air among three mutually perpendicular planes. If we depict on a horizontal plane everything that we see when we look at the model from above, we get the so-called “top view”. An image on a vertical plane of what is seen from the side (on the left in our picture) will give a “side view”. We will also get a “front view”. If these three types are not enough, then additional types are made.
Dimensions are written on projections individual parts, and sometimes indicate the material from which they are made. If the projections are obtained as shown in Fig. 87, then the dimensions of the parts in the drawing will be the same as those of the model. In this case, they say that the drawing is made on a scale of one to one, or in life size.
However, you can do it differently: having projections made in full size, reduce all sizes by the same number of times. A reduced image of the model is also obtained in several projections. If the reduction is made by 10 times, then they say that the drawing is made on a scale of one to ten (one tenth of natural size). This is abbreviated as follows: M = 1:10.
In Fig. 86 shows a drawing of the described schematic model of the glider on a scale of 1: 10. Having it before our eyes, let's move on to building the model.
Preparing to build the model
Our glider model is built from the simplest materials. To build it you need to prepare: a pine board 8-10 mm thick, several dry pine slats (slats from aircraft model parcel No. 4 are suitable), a sheet of tissue or thin writing paper, a spool of thread, casein or wood glue and several small nails.
Tools you will need: a small rubai, a sharp knife, a hammer, scissors.
DRAFTING A WORKING DRAWING
Before you start building a model, you need to draw its working drawing, that is, a full-size drawing. In Fig. 88 it is drawn on a scale of 1:10. Exactly the same drawing, but in full size must be drawn on a sheet of paper. For work, it is more convenient to draw not the entire model, but its individual parts. In Fig. 88 half of the wing, fin and stabilizer are drawn.
To draw a wing, draw a center line (dotted line in Fig. 88) 400-450 mm long at the top of a sheet of paper. Then, at the left end of the center line, another line 130-150 mm long is drawn perpendicular to it. They lay 60 mm along this line up and down from the axial line - these will be the ends of the middle (central) rib. At a distance of 125 mm from the first line, draw the same line and at the same distance the second and third lines. They indicate the location of the wing ribs. On the last perpendicular, spaced 375 mm from the first, 35 mm are laid up and down - these will be the ends of the outer rib of the wing. The inclined lines will indicate the edges of the wing edges, and their intersections with the remaining two perpendiculars will give the dimensions of the middle two ribs.
In Fig. 88 indicates the length of each rib and the width of the end part of the wing. Once the edges of the wing are drawn, the shape of the wing half will be clearly defined. Now you can trace all the lines again with a pencil, pressing it harder. All unnecessary lines must be erased with an eraser so that the wing drawing is clean.
The stabilizer has simple form, and drawing it is not difficult. You can draw it entirely - it will take up little space. The keel is also easy to draw. It is more difficult to draw a load (Fig. 89), but this difficulty can be overcome by drawing a load similar in shape to that shown in our drawing. Small change the shape of the weight will not impair the flight qualities of the model. But it is still important that the weight has dimensions: 60 mm in height and 185 mm in length.
More accurately, the weight can be drawn according to the cells, as indicated in the rms. 89. (In this way you can redraw, while simultaneously enlarging many times, any shaped details.)
After all the details of the model are drawn and the extra lines are erased, you need to carefully put down all the dimensions, checking them with Fig. 88. The working drawing is ready. You can proceed to building the model.
MANUFACTURING SLITS
The construction of the model must begin with the manufacture of the slats. For this purpose, you can use a ready-made rail from the package. If the lath turns out to be thicker than necessary, it should be planed with a plane to a thickness of 5X10 mm and cleaned with fine sandpaper. Thick turnips are planed on a table or a special bench. One end of the turnip, placed on the workbench, should rest against the stop made in advance. The lath must be planed gradually, removing the thin shavings from it and making sure that its cross-section is rectangular, measuring 5x10 mm.
If there is no slats from the aircraft model parcel, it can be sawed off from the main board and then planed. To do this, choose a straight-layer board with a thickness of 10-15 mm, without knots. This board allows you to do without a saw - it can easily be cut into thin slats (splinters). You need to split the board with a small hatchet or a large knife (mower). Having selected the appropriate size from the resulting splinters, plan it with a plane and sand it. The finished turnip should be straight. If for some reason this does not work, you need to level it over the fire. I
A weight is cut out from a board 8-10 mm thick and at least 60 mm wide, using a previously made drawing. For this purpose, you can draw the shape of the weight onto a board using carbon paper or chop it. You can cut the weight with a knife, but better with a jigsaw. Since the thickness of the weight should not exceed 8 mm, you first need to bring the board to required thickness plane. After the weight is cut, its edges, except for the top, need to be slightly rounded and sanded; the upper part of the weight should be flat, since a strip is nailed to it on three nails 20-25 mm long; The joint is pre-coated with glue.
In the back of the rail, two grooves are cut with a knife at a distance of 100 mm from one another. The first groove must be driven at a distance of 10 mm from the rear end of the rack. These grooves are necessary for installing and securing the edges of the stabilizer.
The construction of the wing begins with the simplest part - the strip. It is needed to install the wing on the rail at a certain angle. The shape and dimensions of the strip are shown in Fig. 90. The plank is made from pine slats using a plane and knife. The front edge of the plank is made 10 mm high, the rear - 6 mm. At a distance of 120 mm from each other, two grooves are cut in the upper side of the strip rectangular shape, size 5X3 mm. On the bottom side, under these grooves, small semicircular grooves are cut for threads. The finished plank is thoroughly sanded.
To make the wing you will need thin slats with a cross section of 5 X 3 mm and 5 X 1.5 mm. Such slats are planed with a plane from thin splinters or suitable planks taken from the parcel.
Thin slats need to be planed more carefully and accurately than thick ones. When planing a lath, you cannot press the end against the stop, as when planing a thick lath, since in this case a thin lath will easily break. It must be held with your left hand at the rear end and driven with a plane with your right, just forward from your left hand. For more accurate adherence to the cross-sectional dimensions of the slats and greater convenience, you can plan the slats by “pulling”. To do this, you need to nail two strips of plywood 5 mm thick to the table or workbench. (If such plywood is not available, you can use thinner plywood by placing several layers of thick paper underneath it.) Strips of plywood are nailed so that there is a groove 8-10 mm wide between them.
When planing, the lath is installed on the groove. It is pressed from above with a plane, after which, holding the plane, the rail is pulled back (Fig. 91). This work is best done by two people: one holds the plane, the other stretches the rail. You need to pull the rail several times until the plane finally stops taking chips. This will indicate that the rail is of the required thickness.
Having taken it out of the groove, turn the strip 90° and place it in the groove between two other plywood strips, the thickness of which is selected in accordance with required sizes lath sections. For the wing edges, the width of the groove should be approximately 5 mm, and the thickness of the plywood plates should be exactly 3 mm.
The slats for the front and rear edges are planed to a length of about 800 mm, with a margin. Having superimposed them on the drawing of the wing and marking the middle, bend the edges in these places over the flame of an alcohol lamp or over a candle. Wooden parts best to bend over electric soldering iron. The wing edges in the center bend upward - at an angle of 15° and back - in accordance with the wing drawing (see Fig. 88). To prevent the wood from catching fire when bending, it must be moistened with water at the bend. You should not rush to bend the edge before it warms up: after warming up, it bends easier. The edge should not be held over the flame in one place for a long time, otherwise the water will quickly evaporate and the wood will begin to burn. You should also not strive to get a bend at an acute angle; A smooth bend of the wing edges is quite acceptable.
For ribs, you need to take slats 200-250 mm long and 5 X 1.5 mm thick and bend them in accordance with the drawing (Fig. 93).
Before you begin assembling the wing, you need to mark with a pencil on both edges the places where the ribs will be located. The edges are installed in grooves cut into the plank and pre-coated with glue. Both edges are carefully tied with threads to the bar (Fig. 94).
Two (flat) end ribs are made from slats with a cross section of 5 X 1.5 mm according to the drawing. The tips of the ribs are sharpened with a knife in the form of a wedge. The ends of the edges are split with a knife blade and the end ribs are inserted into the crevices, having previously coated the joints with glue (Fig. 95). All other ribs that have a bend are adjusted in length exactly according to the drawing. The tips of each of them are also sharpened.
The edges of the wing in the places where the ribs should be are pierced with the end of a knife and ribs lubricated with glue are inserted into the punctures (Fig. 96). Then all the joints are coated with glue again, the distortions are eliminated, after which the wing is laid on a flat table to dry.
Rice. 96. Method of fastening ribs to the wing edges Fig. 97. Securing the edges of the stabilizer and keel to the rack
TAIL ASSEMBLY
While the wing is drying, the leading and trailing edges of the stabilizer and fin are made from the remaining 5X3 mm thick slats. The dimensions of the edges must correspond exactly to the drawing. Having inserted the edges of the stabilizer into the grooves cut in the back of the rail and lubricated with glue, just as before, tie the edges to the rail with thin threads (Fig. 97). Then end ribs are made from slats with a cross section of 5 X 1.5 mm and secured in the same way as on the wing. After coating the joints of the stabilizer with glue again, let the stabilizer dry.
Meanwhile, the ends of the leading and trailing edges of the keel are sharpened into a wedge. Using the tip of a knife, make slits in the slats (Fig. 97), into which the edges of the keel are inserted with the pointed ends, coated with glue. Finally, the end rib of the keel is installed, as was done for the stabilizer, and once again all joints are coated with glue.
After the finished parts of the model have completely dried, you need to carefully check for any distortions and eliminate them. Distortions of the wing and stabilizer are eliminated by carefully twisting them in the direction opposite to the distortion. If the wing still remains skewed after such a procedure, then it must be straightened over the flame of an alcohol lamp, heating the edges and ribs and at the same time twisting the wing in the direction opposite to the skew.
Only after the final alignment of the wing and tail can the frame of the model be considered complete.
MODEL COVER
P Before covering the model, the entire frame must be carefully cleaned with sandpaper to remove dirt that could stick to the edges and ribs during assembly and removing distortions. It is better to cover the model with tissue paper or thin writing paper. You need to glue the covering with liquid casein or wood glue.
The fitting of the model begins with empennage. They peel off such a piece of paper that it is enough for half of the stabilizer and one side of the keel. One half of the stabilizer and one side of the keel are coated with glue. The part of the rail located between the edges of the stabilizer must also be coated with glue. Pull the paper different sides, apply it first to the stabilizer and then to the keel. In this case, you need to make sure that the paper sticks well everywhere (Fig. 98).
The second half of the stabilizer and the other side of the keel are also glued over. Thus, the stabilizer is covered on the top side, and the keel on both sides.
After the glue has dried, remove excess paper with sandpaper or cut it off with a knife.
The wing is covered in the same way as the tail. First, they tighten one half, from the central rib to the edge, then the other (Fig. 98). You cannot cover two halves of the wing with one sheet at the same time: you will definitely get wrinkles. When covering the wing, you need to make sure that the covering sticks well to the ribs. Excess paper, just like when covering the tail unit, is cleaned off with sandpaper or cut off with a knife.
PREPARATION FOR LAUNCH
Before strengthening the wing on the rack, it is necessary to determine the location of the center of gravity of the rack with the tail unit.
To do this, place the rod on the edge of a ruler or the blade of a knife and move the rod to the right and left to achieve its balance. Having marked on the rack with a pencil the place where the center of gravity is located, install the wing on the rack. The wing is secured to the rail with threads or thin (1X1 mm) rubber so that the center of gravity is located exactly under the first third of the width of the central part of the wing (i.e., at a distance of 40 mm), if measured from the leading edge.
ADJUSTMENT AND STARTING
What is adjustment
During the assembly process, the model strives to give it the correct alignment and eliminate any asymmetry, distortions, etc. (Fig. 99). But since everyone does this by eye, it is, of course, difficult to obtain accurate symmetry and complete elimination of distortions. Therefore, you have to release the model into flight and judge the correctness of the assembly based on the nature of its flight, make corrections, and then launch the model again and again refine the assembly, make changes to the position of the model parts. This is called model adjustment.
It is better to adjust the model in calm weather, but the model must be launched while standing. When starting, the model should be held with your right hand by the rail - under the wing and slightly behind the center of gravity. They launch the model by tilting it down a little and pushing it smoothly and not too hard. A strong push will cause the model to fly up and may cause it to break (Fig. 100). With a weak push, the model will go into a steep dive. Such a flight can be considered normal when the model flies 15-20 m when launched from the hand, and its flight occurs smoothly.
Sometimes the model flies, describing the waves, sometimes soaring, sometimes diving (Fig. 100). Such a flight is a consequence of incorrect installation of the wing: it is necessary, by placing a piece of cardboard or a match under the back of the bar, to reduce the angle of attack of the wing.
If the model still dives with a well-chosen push, you need to increase the angle of the handle. If, when gliding, the model flies along a curve - it turns to the side, this indicates a misalignment of the wing or tail unit or other asymmetry of the assembly. In such cases, you need to carefully check the correct assembly of the model. Right assembled model flies smoothly and without turning.
After preliminary adjustment, the model can be launched from an elevation - a hill, slope, etc.
LAUNCH ON LINE
The most interesting thing is the launch of the glider model on the rail. For a lightweight glider, the rail is made from spool threads No. 10 or 30. A ring of 1 mm thick wire or even a paper clip is tied to the end of the thread. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the ring, a piece of colored material is strengthened (Fig. 101); This makes it easier to notice the moment when the handrail uncouples from the model.
Launching from the rope is carried out by two modelers: an assistant unwinds 30-40 meters of the rope and holds it with the thumb and index finger of his left hand; having unwinded another one and a half to two meters of thread from the spool, he transfers the spool to right hand. You need to hold the line this way so that during a strong gust of wind, the thread can slip between the fingers of your left hand, which serve as a kind of brake, softening the jerk from the gust of wind. If this precaution is neglected, a gust of wind may break the wings of the model.
The aircraft modeller releases the model upward at a high angle (Fig. 101). The assistant at this moment runs with a line against the wind, while trying to observe the flight of the model. If the model begins to roll or jump from side to side, he should run slower.
If there is a strong roll and when the nose of the model is lowered down, the reel must be thrown, after which the model should level out on its own, and the handrail should unhook. When the model takes off correctly on the rail, it rises up like a kite. When the model reaches a height approximately equal to the length of the handrail, the ring will come off and the model will unhook.
In windy weather, the ring of the lifeline must be hooked to the first hook, in calm weather - to the second, located closer to the center of gravity.
Having mastered launching the model on a short rope, you can launch it on a rope 100-150 or more meters long; in this case, a well-made model plans for up to three minutes.
The model we suggest you make (photo 1) will not be an exact copy of the real glider, but the model, if you make it correctly, will fly well. A model modeled after this glider achieved a record of 97 meters of flight on level ground (measured in a straight line from takeoff to landing).
The glider model is very simple in its design.
Photo1. Paper glider model.
It consists of three parts: the wing, the fuselage and the “struts” - the struts that support the wing (photo 2).
We download the scans of the glider model, print it on a printer, paste it on thick paper (whatman paper, paper for drawing, drawing), carefully cut it out, assemble it and fly (photo 2).
Photo 2. Paper planner. Blanks.
This model's wing has no spar and is held in place by fuselage struts and struts. The wing is made of very thick paper. Thanks to the fastening on many struts, the wing will not sag.
The tail of the model - the fins and the stabilizer - are cut out not separately, but together with the fuselage. Fold the weight for the bow of the model from two strips of paper. Only two pins are needed to hold the parts together.
Begin assembling the model by placing weight strips in the forward part of the fuselage. Without fastening the load, place struts from below to the fuselage.
Make sure that the strut struts fit in the middle of the fuselage struts. Only now pierce the bow of the model through the struts, fuselage and cargo in two places (photo 3).
Photo 3. Paper planner. Securing the load with pins.
Insert one pin into each puncture, tighten them very tightly, bend the ends down and cut them short. You can also fasten the nose part with one wider puncture, into which, one after the other, insert two pins from the side of the puncture. The keels are located at the very end of the fuselage. There is no need to bend them. There is a stabilizer in front of the fins. It must be bent with a slight negative angle, i.e. so that the bend line has a slight slope and the rear end of the stabilizer is slightly raised.
Rice. 3 Fastening the wing to the fuselage struts.
Adjusting and launching a paper glider.
When adjusting, first of all check the alignment of the model; it should be in the first third of the wing width (Fig. 1). If the load is light and the model is rear centered, add a few strips of weight. If the alignment is forward and the load is heavy, cut off part of the load.
Rice. 1 Checking the alignment of the paper glider.
Then check the installation of the wing and stabilizer (see Fig. 2) and see if the fuselage and fin planes are distorted. Fuselage distortions can be eliminated by forcefully moving the riveted forward part of the fuselage.
Rice. 2
When launching, hold the model under the wing by the fuselage. During the first launches, you should not direct the model's flight upward. If the model drops steeply with its nose, then slightly bend the elevator up. If the model goes to the sides, then slightly, in the other direction, bend the entire keel, i.e., both of its strips together. Use the ailerons to level the model's tilt to one side in flight.
Having achieved a smooth, straight flight of the model, test it in strong launches at distance and take-off altitude. You can change how the model is captured at startup. The throw will be stronger if you hold the model by the tip of the model's nose, in front of the rivet. The model flies well both on level ground and from slopes.
»Knowing the air speed relative to the blade element dr, we determine the elementary forces and the elementary torque. To express forces and moment in analytical form, it is necessary to make the following assumptions: Angle φ (Fig. 53) is considered small.
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