The blur effect, which creates a feeling of high speed, is often used today in photo processing and in the creation of videos and films.
In reality, motion blur occurs when the shutter speed on your camera is slow enough to capture the movement of your subject in the frame.
In this tutorial we will demonstrate how to artificially create a motion blur effect. You can try to capture a moving subject while you're shooting, resulting in a beautifully blurred stream of color and light.
The main difficulty is achieving a balance between blur and the visibility of object details. You can only get good results through trial and error. But, unfortunately, there is not always time for this trial and error.
Blur effect in the photo
The blur resulting from using long shutter speeds doesn't always capture the motion effect we want. In such cases, photo editors come to the rescue. In this tutorial we will work in Photoshop Elements.
We'll show you how to make the blur match the perspective of the object (in this case, the train), that is, the direction of the blur will coincide with the direction of the train lines.
Then you'll learn how to work with a layer mask and selectively reduce the effect in certain areas of the image to reveal the details of the subject.
We will also demonstrate how to properly work with a layer mask, which will help you compose additional objects in the frame, with the help of which you can make the foreground and background more interesting.
How to Create a Motion Blur Effect
1. Open the original image
To get started, download our Master motion blur source files. Open the blur_before01.jpg document. In the Layers panel, double-click the background layer's thumbnail to unlock it. From the toolbar, select Magic Wand tool(Magic Wand) and set the value Tolerance(Tolerance) 20. Check the boxes next to the box Contiguous(Adjacent pixels). Click on the image to highlight the white sky.
2. Smooth the edges
The edges don't look quite straight, we need to smooth them out a little. Choose Select>Inverse(Select>Inverse). Click on the button Refine Edge(Refine Edge), which is in the Tool Options bar. Set the View to On Black. Place a checkmark next to the parameter Smart Radius(Smart Radius) and set the radius to 2.9 pixels, and Feather(Shading) 1.7. In the Output to column, select ‘New layer with layer mask’. Click Ok.
3. Adjusting the mask
In the toolbar, select a tool Brush(Brush), in the tool options panel, open the list of brush presets and select the hard round brush. Set the size to 35. Set the background color to white. Click on the layer mask. Use a white brush to restore missing details and a black brush to hide unwanted areas, such as the lantern in the background.
- Advice: In Photoshop, in order not to clutter the menu, some tools are hidden under the icons of other tools; in order to see and activate them, you need to right-click on the tool icon.
4. Add an image of the sky
In the list of source files, select the document blur_before01.jpg and open it in the program. Select Select>All(Select>All) and then Edit>Copy(Edit>Copy). Go to the main image tab and click Edit>Paste(Edit>Paste). The sky will appear in the Layers panel as Layer 1. Drag this layer to a position above the train layer. Use the tool Move(Move) to place dramatic clouds directly above the train.
5. Apply a filter
Click on the top layer with the mask (Layer 0 copy). Press Ctrl/Cmd+J to duplicate it. Rename the layer to 'Blur layer'. Go to the tab Filter>Blur>Radial Blur. Set the blur method to Zoom and quality to Best. Move the center of the blur so that the blur lines match the angle of the train lines.
6. Increase speed
In the previous step, to add blur, we set the Amount to 10. To give the feeling of even greater speed, duplicate this effect by holding down the Ctrl/Cmd+F keys. Now the train has become so blurry that it is difficult for us to distinguish details. The ground, as you can see, is also blurred. We need to change the layer mask.
7. Reduce blur
Reduce Opacity(Opacity) of the layer to 94% to bring out a little more detail from the layer below. Arm yourself with a tool Brush(Brush). Select a soft round brush from the brush presets menu. Set the brush size to 600 pixels and Opacity to 25%. Click on the layer mask. Reduce the blur in the area where the driver is and the engine number area by painting over these parts with a brush.
8. Drawing in the details
Restore the brush's opacity to 100% and reduce its size to 300 pixels. Use a black brush to paint over the layer mask on the areas that you don't want to blur, namely the platform and the fence in the background. You can change the layer mask at any time and make some details more clear or, conversely, blurry.
9. Letting off steam
Open the blur_before05.jpg file. Select a tool Lasso(Lasso). Set the Feather value to 45 pixels. Draw a smooth selection around the column of smoke. Select Enhance>Auto Contrast(Enhance>Auto Contrast) and then Edit>Copy(Edit>Copy). Let's go to File>New>Blank File(File>New>New Empty File). Click on Ok and then go to the tab Edit and choose Paste(Insert).
10. Invert layers
Click on the white background layer and press Ctrl/Cmd+I to invert it to black. Then select the steam layer and press Ctrl/Cmd+I to invert the layer to white. Thus, we will get an image of white steam on a black background. Use an eraser to remove pipe marks. Then go to Layer>Flatten Image.
11. Insert and position
Select Enhance>Adjust Color>Remove Color(Enhance>Color Settings>Desaturate) and then Enhance>Auto Contrast. The next step is to go to Select>All to make a selection and then Edit>Copy to copy the selection. Go to the file we were working with before and click Edit>Paste(Edit>Paste). Change the blending mode of the steam layer to Screen to get rid of the black color. Use the tool Move(Move) to position the smoke in the desired location.
12. Scaling
Press Ctrl/Cmd+J to duplicate the steam layer. Then use the combination Ctrl/Cmd+T to activate the tool Free Transform(Free Transformation). In the tool settings, set the value for Angle(Angle) equal to -180. Uncheck the box next to Constrain Proportions. For W set the value to 200%, and for H to 150%. Inside the frame, drag the steam image as shown in the photo. Reduce the layer opacity to 85%.
13. Open the image with luggage
Open the blur_before03.jpg file. Use the tool Rectangular Marquee Tool(Rectangular area) to highlight the luggage section. Select Edit>Copy. Go to our project tab and click Edit>Paste. Go to Image>Rotate>Flip Layer Horizontal(Image>Orientation>Flip Horizontal).
14. Making an even selection
To make a smooth selection and separate the luggage from the previous background, select the Quick Selection tool. Set the size to 50. Click on the New selection icon. We run the tool over the luggage to make an even selection. Click on the icon Subtract from selection(Subtract from Selection) To remove an unnecessary selection area, in Photoshop you need to hold down the key Alt.
15. Smooth the edges
Select Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal Selection(Layer>Layer Mask>Show Selection). The layer mask will hide most of the background, but the jagged edges will still remain. Click on the layer mask. Take the tool Brush(Brush). Using a black brush on the layer mask, paint over all areas where the background on which the luggage was previously visible is visible, and, on the contrary, use a white brush to restore the missing parts of the luggage.
16. Adjusting tones
Now the luggage looks a little overexposed in the overall picture. Click on the luggage layer thumbnail (not the layer mask). Go to Enhance>Adjust Lighting>Levels(Enhancement>Light Correction>Levels). Drag the black level slider to 27 to make the luggage shadow darker. Click Ok.
17. Add shadows
Use the tool Move Tool to place luggage on the platform. To add shadows create a new layer: Layer>New>Layer. Move a new layer under the luggage layer and change its Blending Mode to Overlay. Arm yourself with a tool Brush. Set the background color to black and select a soft round brush. Draw the shadow of the luggage on the platform.
18. Finishing touches
Open the blur_before04.jpg file. Using the selection technique we used with the luggage, move the flowers from the open document into our picture. Scale them to 40%, duplicate the layer and place more colors in the right corner. Use the tool Free Transform to change their position.
In this tutorial, you'll learn how to use all types of blur to create the illusion of movement and add focus to an image in Adobe Photoshop.
Finalresult
Source materials:
Step 1
First, let's add a movement effect to a static car image.
Open the “Car” image in Photoshop and then duplicate the image with the car Ctrl + J.
Step 2
Apply filter Motion blur(Motion Blur), for this we go Filter - Blur - Motion Blur(Filter > Blur > Motion Blur).
Step 3
Add a layer mask to the duplicate layer with blur, for this we go (Layer > Layer Mask > Reveal All).
On the layer mask, paint the car image with a soft black brush so that the motion blur effect is present only in the background.
In the screenshot below, I've painted the car image red where you would paint it with a black brush on the layer mask, as a guide.
The result should be like the screenshot below.
Step 4
Press Ctrl + Shift + Alt + E to merge all visible layers into one layer, and then use the tool Oval area(Elliptical Marquee Tool), create a selection around the front wheel of the car.
Step 5
Next, apply a filter to the selected area Radial Blur(Radial Blur), for this we go Filter - Blur - Radial Blur(Filter > Blur > Radial Blur). In the parameter Method(Method Blur), select option Annular(Spin) and move the parameter slider Degrees(Amount) all the way to the right. In this step, we will apply Ring Blur(Spin Blur) to our wheel to make it look like it's spinning quickly.
The wheel should look like the screenshot below:
Step 6
Repeat the action with a radial blur to the rear wheel. The result should be like the screenshot below.
Step 7
Add a layer mask to the radial blur layer, let's go Layer - Layer Mask - Show All(Layer > Layer Mask > Reveal All) and using a soft black brush with 50% opacity, paint around the edges of the spinning wheels to hide any noticeable/rough lines.
Step 8
Create another merged layer from all visible layers by pressing Ctrl + Shift + Alt + E. And then to the merged layer, add Motion blur(Motion blur), set the value Offsets(Distance) 700px.
Result Motion Blur(Motion Blur):
Step 9
Change the blending mode for this layer to Lightening(Screen), then add a layer mask, for this we go (Layer > Layer Mask > Hide All).
Paint on a layer mask over the back of the car, creating a sense of movement.
Translator's note:
The layer mask will hide the 700px motion blur, and using a white brush, you will again show the blur effect, only in the area of the rear of the car.
Duplicate this layer by pressing Ctrl + J. Next, press Alt + Backspace to fill the layer mask with black, then move the layer a little to the top (hold down Ctrl + Shift + press the TOP arrow key once):
Paint on the layer mask with a white brush, as shown in the screenshot below:
Final result:
OthertypesBlurs
Another cool effect you could apply to an object or person that makes them appear to be running very fast is Linear Blur(Zoom Blur).
Open the “Running Man” image, and also duplicate the layer with the image of the running man.
Layer - Layer Mask - Hide All(Layer > Layer Mask > Hide All). Using a white brush, carefully paint on the layer mask until only the running man appears, and also paint a little on the ground in front of the man. The result should be like the screenshot below.
Another technique is to apply focus to an image of an object or person using Gaussian Blur(Gaussian Blur) and blurs the picture except for the object/person we want to focus on. So let's try it.
Open the “Teenagers” image, and also duplicate the layer with the image of teenagers.
Apply Gaussian blur(Gaussian Blur), set the blur radius to 3.5px. For this we go Filter - Blur - Gaussian Blur(Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur).
Now, let's assume that we want to focus only on the girl who is located in the middle.
To the duplicate layer with blur, add a layer mask, for this we go Layer - Layer Mask - Show All(Layer > Layer Mask > Reveal All) and using a soft black brush, paint over the top of the girl, which is located in the middle. When painting, be careful not to move your brush further from the object of focus. As you can see, the effect is subtle but noticeable.
You can use this type of selective blur to sharpen the focus on an object, part of the body (eg face, eyes) or a specific area of the image. The only thing to remember is that subtle effects work best.
Not long ago, Instagram and other social networks were flooded with a new fashion trend - “live” photographs. How to take a Live Photo? At the moment, many different programs have been developed, thanks to which you can achieve the desired effect. On iPhones running iOS 9 and above, this feature is enabled in camera mode. Now we are not talking about pictures that convey real emotions, or about random photos, but about animated pictures where only one specific episode “comes to life”. Despite all the similarities with gifs, they are still different.
What are "live" photos?
“Live” photos are images in which the main subject remains static and the background is animated, or vice versa. In fact, any detail can move: eyes open/close, leaves flutter, water flows, hair flutters, etc. Everything else remains strictly motionless, which creates a feeling of real magic.
What is the difference between “live” photos and GIFs?
We are used to calling a GIF an animated image consisting of several static frames. All gifs, accordingly, are in GIF format.
"Live" photos are a combination of JPG and MOV formats. This hybrid is only supported by the iOS 9 operating system and higher. All other gadgets, if you transfer this file, will only see the JPG image. To show the world the original appearance of such a Live Photo, it is most often converted into GIF format.
And, of course, the style of live photos itself implies that part of the image will be static, and part will be animated, thereby creating a magical effect.
How did the fashion for “live” photos appear?
When a new Apple product went on sale 2 years ago, many users were interested in how to take a “live” photo on the iPhone 6. Not only did the quality of the gadget’s camera become significantly higher, but it also added a mini-video function that was saved in “live” format. photo by combining JPG and MOV. Despite its mega-popularity, this new product still had a number of disadvantages:
- the photo was played only on iOS 9; to convey the motion effect on other devices, it was necessary to convert the file to GIF format;
- accompanying sound was recorded, which made little difference between the new format and video and was not always convenient;
- The iPhone recorded 45 frames and played back the image at 15 fps, which was very similar to a GIF, but the file itself was much heavier;
- there was no function for erasing audio;
- the slightest tremor of the hands could ruin the shot;
- The Live Photo format was very specific, because it combined MOV and JPG. If they tried to send this “live” photo by mail, then only the JPG component remained, the most important effect of movement disappeared.
How to take "live" photos?
Fortunately, now many interested users of not only the iOS operating system, but also Android, can search the Internet and find many alternative ways to create live photos.
If you are the owner of a famous Apple smartphone, then you must know how to take a “live” photo on your iPhone. To do this you need:
- Open the Camera app.
- Activate the “live” photo mode (life off).
- Press the shutter button.
If you are the owner of a smartphone with the Android operating system, then one of the most suitable methods for you is to use the free Loopsie application. We'll talk about it a little below.
How to edit photos
The updated version of iOS 11 introduced several new effects for live photos. If previously they could only be viewed, now it is possible to turn off the sound, loop “live” photos or play them forward and backward. A long exposure function has also been added. The developers took care not only of how to take a “live” photo on an iPhone, but also of editing it.
Converting "live" photos
We learned how to take “live” photos on iPhone 7. But how to adapt this format for other operating systems? To do this, Live Photos need to be converted. If you are interested in the question of how to make a video from “live” photos, then the answer is simple: just download the Live Gif application. It costs a little more than 100 rubles and, as you might have guessed from the name, it can format live photos into GIF or video files. After certain manipulations in this application, the material will become suitable for publication on social networks. You can also use Google's Motion Stills app, which works on a similar principle.
How to bring a JPG photo to life?
Let's say you have a favorite photo that you want to “revive.” This can be done in Photoshop or in the special Plotagraph application. This program has a toolbar and, importantly, background information that will help you figure out how to take “live” photos on an iPhone. This application is paid, it costs about 400 rubles. How does it work?
Open the application, select the desired photo, press the “animation” button. You will see arrows on the screen; they need to be placed in those areas of the photo that you plan to revive. Next, click the “Mask” button and erase the entire area that you want to leave static. The next stage is choosing the animation speed and saving.
MaskArt
This application is free and without it. It is easy to use, but can create spectacular live photos from videos. How to work with it?
- Open the program.
- Select a suitable video.
- Find the best freeze frame and click Done in the upper right corner.
- If necessary, trim the video using the slider.
- Use a brush to paint the area that needs to move.
- Defects can be corrected with an eraser.
- Go to the video editor and adjust the color. Ready!
This application only works on Apple gadgets.
Loopsie for Android
Many people are now wondering how to take “live” photos on Android. Very simply, a number of applications have also been developed for this operating system. There are cheap and very expensive ones ($200), and there are also free ones.
The Loopsy application is shareware. After a few days of using the demo, a watermark appears.
The first stage is programs. Open "Loopsy" and shoot a video in it, keeping your hands as static as possible. You can use a tripod or other way to secure the phone. This way the “live” photo will turn out to be the most beautiful.
Before you start recording video, you can select the size of the sides, switch the desired camera and use the grid - in this situation it helps a lot.
After shooting a video, the program starts the stabilization process, which hides hand tremors and other technical irregularities.
Live Photo in Photoshop
At this stage, many are interested in whether it is possible to create a fashionable image in Photoshop. Yes, it’s not difficult, but the work involved is more painstaking than in special applications for smartphones.
It is very important that your version of the program has a video creation function. How can I check this? Open "Window", then - "Timeline". Look for the "Create Timeline" button. If it is not there, then, unfortunately, there is no video creation function either.
Now let's figure out how to take a “live” photo in Photoshop.
First of all, open the photo, for example, in JPG format. An animated effect can be created from one or more photos. In any case, the main object and the background should be on different layers.
If you have one photo that you plan to “revive,” you can do it as follows:
- Create a copy of the layer in image editing mode.
- Separate the main object from the background. It doesn't matter which selection tool you use, as long as the effect is as neat as possible.
- Once you have separated the background from the foreground, check to see if there are any unnecessary details. If necessary, they must also be removed.
- We refine the edges of the mask and make the selection more even.
- Let us remind you that all manipulations must be carried out with a copy of the layer.
- Create a duplicate of the bottom layer. For convenience, we label the layer with the main object with the number 1, and the background one with the number ". We do not touch the background.
- Take the Stamp tool, set the opacity to 100% and select a medium softness value.
- Go to the middle layer (background) and start using the Stamp tool to hide the main object.
The next stage will be the “revival” process itself, before which it is recommended to reduce the size of the picture so that in the future it will be easier to play and will not slow down.
- Go to the "Window" menu and select "Timeline".
- Click on the “Create timeline for video” button.
- On the left are the buttons: “Stop”, “Play”, “Rewind/Forward”, “Scissors”, etc. The duration of the video image can be changed with a special slider, as in any other editor.
- Layers are automatically transferred to the timeline, which makes it possible to work with each of them separately.
- For example, select a zoom effect for the background by right-clicking. Next, play the video and see what happens.
- To create an aerial perspective, you also need to work with the layer on which the main object is depicted. You can also bring it closer or further away, and also determine the direction of movement.
- Convert the image into a GIF animation or video file. Ready!
As you can see, many programs and conditions have been created to express yourself creatively. Feel free to discover something new, perhaps your creative brainchild will become the next fashion trend!
There is a common misconception that if a photo lacks sharpness and there is blur, the photo is bad. I'd like to tell you three ways to make a photo more dramatic and interesting with the help of clever blur.
“MISCONCEPTION: BLUR IN A PHOTO = BAD PICTURE”
I will disagree and say: no, this is not necessarily true! It all depends on the subject and theme of the photograph and on your intentions as an artist and photographer. Using blur can add emphasis and show movement in the frame. This can help add a sense of speed to the photo. If, for example, you're shooting a sports story and you have a fast lens with a fast shutter speed, you'll be able to capture the action at the peak of the action. OR You can deliberately create motion blur by using a slow shutter speed, this will also add a sense of speed to the photo. There is no right or wrong among these methods, they are just different. You choose, and if it's difficult, just try both!
- panning moving objects.
- long exposures for effect.
- zooming or moving the camera during exposure.
Let's look at each of them in more detail.
Panning
Panning is a technique for photographing moving objects that allows for the sharpest emphasis and blurring of the background. This adds a sense of speed and works especially well if you have an unattractive or distracting background in your frame. The basis of panning is choosing a shutter speed, and the camera moves along with the subject. Here are some tips on how to properly set up your camera for panning, try:
Use high speed or burst shooting mode to shoot multiple frames while holding down the shutter button
Select shutter priority in your mode
Start at 1/30 and adjust – slower or faster – as needed
Practice on moving objects
Just like in golf, the key focus is the execution itself. Point the camera at an approaching subject, press the shutter button and follow the subject as it moves into your field of view, and keep it there even after you release the shutter button.
Of course, this requires a lot of practice and mostly trial and error, but in the end you can come up with some truly amazing artistic effects in your photos. Try shooting the same subjects with a high shutter speed and capturing movement, so-called freezing, and then repeat the panning effect and compare. Of course, you won't use this technique for every object, but it's good to keep in mind.
Here are some panning examples:
shutter speed - 1/25 second
shutter speed - 1/30 second
shutter speed - 1/25 second
Long exposures
Long exposures require a slow shutter speed, slower than you can handle holding the camera in your hands. There are many reasons to use a slow shutter speed: the movement of water, the trail of a shooting star at night, the movement of car headlights, and night photography in general. You will need a tripod, a remote camera trigger, and time. I talk about time for two reasons: firstly, you have to really wait, especially when it comes to the stars; secondly, it takes time for the shooting itself, for correction and correction. A lot of photography is trial and error, but in this age of digital photography, this is not a problem.
Here are examples with different excerpts. What would you prefer?
shutter speed - 1/5000 second
shutter speed - 1/40 second
In addition to night photography, long exposures are used, for example, to photograph moving water and waterfalls. Keep in mind that there are no right or wrong approaches, they just give different results depending on what you want to achieve. A high shutter speed will freeze the water in motion (like the first photo above). Longer exposure will blur the water, or may even cause it to disappear or turn into mist. Here's a comparison:
shutter speed - 1/100 second
shutter speed - 2.5 seconds
With moving water, there comes a point where the exposure stops changing. Compare the image below (5 seconds) with the image above (2.5 seconds). The water looks very similar, but the tree was blurred at 5 seconds, so I decided to use a shutter speed of 2.5.
shutter speed - 5 seconds
Here are some more examples of using long exposures. Do you see movement in the images below? What's moving on each?
Zooming
Last but not least, you can add movement to your image using zoom. The basis of this technique is that you work with magnification (physically, rotate the lens) during a long exposure. This works well and gives an interesting effect in backlit night photography, neon signs, and even fireworks. You can try this effect throughout the day and see what you can create. This often results in completely abstract images, sometimes completely altering the object so that it is difficult to identify. But it normal! Experiment and play. Have fun and get creative.
Here are some tips for zooming during long exposures.
Focus on the subject, then start zooming and at this time open the shutter by pressing the shutter button all the way. You can use focus lock: use autofocus, then turn it off. Whichever method you choose, just make sure you focus on the longest focal length.
Practice turning the zoom ring on your lens. Learn which way to turn it and how to do it smoothly without making sudden movements.
Use shutter speeds of about one second or longer. It's very difficult to do this with a shutter speed of 1/100.
Experiment with the zoom at different speeds (how fast you turn the lens). The image will look different if you pause at the beginning and then zoom in quickly, compared to zooming slowly at the beginning and pausing at the end of the exposure.
Here are some examples of shooting using the zoom.
no zoom
zoom with shutter speed 2 sec.
zooming with a shutter speed of 2 seconds, but the zoom ring was turned out faster.
Action plan
If you have not yet experimented with shutter speed, I urge you: play around, try the methods described. Capture moving objects and blur the background. Or take an abstract photo using zoom.
The point is that not every image has to be completely sharp, and some photos are completely blurry, but they are still great photos. Don't get too hung up on the technical aspects and don't be afraid to experiment with your focus. Add a little movement to your shot with these tips, or don't focus on your subject at all. Come back and share your experiences and photos with us.
Do you have a photo where blurriness adds charm to the picture? Share and don't forget to leave a comment below.
© Susie Salmon, The Lovely Bones.
I continue the section on non-standard content for Instagram. I hate articles like “55 types of content that will blow up your profile with likes.” Usually they are a simple collection of the first ideas that came across, with half thrown in just for the sake of quantity. Therefore, 1 idea = 1 article. Today I will develop the video topic started in the article about.
So, the topic of today's post is - cinematography. The first cinematographs were presented to New York City by photographer Jamie Beck and web designer Kevin Burg. Of course, the first reaction may be something along the lines of “It’s just a simple gif.” True and false at the same time. You can’t upload a GIF to Instagram, and yes, this is not a type of Boomerang; a real live photo looks much more interesting. Interesting? Go.
First, I will answer the question HOW and only then WHY. This is such a strange logic, yes.
A more complex, but still simple option is to use traditional Photoshop. It took me about 30 minutes to find the original video for the article, my ideas with a bottle of wine, a dog and a mug of coffee were embodied in “so-so posts”, there was too little light around me. But we will focus on author's videos shot on a phone/camera. The key point in the original video is that the camera must be absolutely still. Ideally, you'll need a tripod, but I've managed to make do with whatever I have at hand.
All work when creating cinematography takes place in your licensed Photoshop. Videos can be trimmed using separate software or during import.
1. Import the video file into Photoshop – File – Import – Video frames to layers– select the required file. Now each frame opens as a new layer.
2. Select a static layer and combine all the remaining ones through Ctrl+G. Further Layers - Layer Mask - Hide All
3. On the first stationary layer, using any tool convenient for you, select the area in which we will have movement and paint it with white. This will be our “Window” through all the layers.
4. Now we need to enable the animation section, if you haven’t already. Window - workspace - animation. Now there is an area with footage of our future cinematography. Look at your sequence of frames. Almost all of them have a transparent background. To get rid of it, select the first layer in the layers panel and click on the “ Unify layer visibility" In the dialog box that appears, select " Synchronize».
That's it, our video is almost ready. To loop the final video, we copy all the resulting frames using the drop-down menu. Next, in the same menu, select “ Insert Frames" In the dialog box that appears, select " Paste after the selected area". Without deselecting frames, select the menu item " Reverse frame order».
Ready! Congratulations, you are amazing! Almost.
For example, I chose the simplest possible video without people or other complex objects. But for a clothing designer or manicurist, this option will be too limited.
While working on this article, I turned to