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This work was done with a minimum of tools and can be repeated by almost anyone.
Tool


I also forgot to add a hammer and a soldering iron (torch), but metal scissors turned out to be superfluous.
The round thing with a thread :) is part of the ball joint of the Lada.
Let's start with the petals, cut out the following blanks from tin:


We anneal it, put it in a spoon and begin to slowly roll it with the ball, giving it the shape we need.


In the photo, the original version with already curved petals, later I made uncurved ones and first polished them, and only then folded them.
Then we make a hole in the tail, collect several pieces and see how it turns out

In total, 7 petals were made.
And then I ran into a problem: I can’t make the petal smaller than the ball one...
It was a two-day plug. Ultimately, a solution was found. Let's cut out this strip of metal.


We make such cutouts on it


Then we take the bolt and cut it with a hacksaw


Solder


and roll it up :)


We push it out a little and begin to bend the petals.

Then we solder the tip so that the circle becomes rigid.
Now let's move on to the sepals.
We take the ball joint and PUNCH it with a hammer so that the necessary depression is formed in the wood.


We burn a strip of copper tin.


Let's hit it with all our might. Cut it out as we need it, then I think it's clear from the photo






Drill a hole and collect the flower.

Now we make the receptacle.
I didn't have the necessary copper blank... so I had to do this:

We solder it (don’t forget to solder a nut into the wide end :)), clamp it into a drill, process it
in the narrow part we cut a thread (or also solder a nut)


The stem is a copper tube (from a refrigerator, I think).
Let’s roll it all up :)


Now the twigs and leaves.
The twigs are just ordinary wire, drill a hole in the stem and solder it there:


The original version of the leaves




I had to abandon it, because when punching the recesses (under the rhinestones) they were very
warped. Therefore, they were made using the LUT method.


Well, a few words about fixing the stones
We grind two such punches into a cone, with cones equal to the cones of the stones

Flowers have always been one of the main gifts for women. How to make a bouquet memorable for a long time? A metal rose is perfect for this purpose. And such a flower will delight its owner much longer than usual.

A metal rose is not an easy craft. Its creation requires special tools and materials, increased safety measures and specially equipped equipment. But the result obtained at the end of the work will exceed all expectations.

We bring to your attention a master class called “Do-it-yourself metal rose.” Photos are attached to each stage.

List of tools and materials

Tools for making metal rose from metal:

• Bulgarian;
• angle grinder;
• two types of discs for the machine - grinding and cutting;
• drill;
• drills for working with metal up to a centimeter in diameter;
• gas heating pad;
• pliers, round nose pliers, long nose pliers;
• pliers;
• wire cutters;
• file;
• anvil;
• hammer;
• felt-tip pen;
• welding machine.

Necessary materials for making a craft such as a metal rose with your own hands (dimensions are given for a specific master class):

• a metal rod with a diameter of approximately 8-12 mm (the stem of our rose is made from it);
• sheet metal, it is better to take half a centimeter thick (automobile metal is also suitable, for example, from the hood);
• unused motor oil, about 400 grams.

DIY metal rose: drawings of petals

Cut out at least four squares measuring 10x10 cm from a metal sheet; to give the rose splendor, prepare more squares.

Draw rose petals on the squares, and on one of them draw a figure similar to a compass rose. This square will serve as a blank for the sepals of our rose. To make the product look more natural, do not try to achieve perfect symmetry.

Using a grinder or a grinder, cut out the petals of our rose, but do not cut all the way, i.e. not to the very center, as in the photo.

Now we need to flatten the ends of the rose petals, sepals and stem leaves. For this we need an anvil and a hammer. Using light blows of a hammer, flatten the ends of the workpieces. After this, using the back of the hammer, apply the texture of the leaves. It is enough to do this on one side.

If you need to make a metal rod shorter, use a grinder. Typically the stem length is between 40 and 50 centimeters. But you can do more or less if you wish.

Option 1 - working with a drill

Drill a hole clearly in the center with a drill. Its size should be equal to the diameter of the metal rod that serves as the stem. Remember that the rod must fit tightly into the drilled hole. This will make it easier to weld. If the diameter of the selected stem does not match the size of the hole (it turned out to be a little smaller), then simply drill a few more holes nearby so that they connect into one, which will be the desired diameter.

Option 2 - working with a welding machine

Bringing the electrode to the middle of the petal, light an arc. Press an electrode about three millimeters thick into the metal, piercing it right through. The current value should be set to 100 A. The hole will burn easily, so be careful not to make it larger than the diameter of the rose's stem.

In order to weld correctly and not lose the strength of our structure, it is better to make the holes not perfectly round, since at least 50% contact is required. To control the process, apply the stem to the hole from time to time.

DIY metal rose: scheme for giving the petals shape

Step back a couple of centimeters from one end of the rod (the stem of the rose) and place the petal blank on it. Each new layer must be positioned so that they form a cross shape. Attach each ball one by one by welding. It is better to melt the stem more than the petals, since their metal burns out very quickly. Bend the bottom petals down.

Now you can start working on giving the petals a shape:

• turn on the gas heater and use it to heat the even petals;
• using pliers or round nose pliers, bend the two central petals inward;
• bend the remaining ones around the first two;
• When all the petals are connected, bend the edges of each slightly.

Leaves for rose

The rose will not be complete if you do not attach leaves to it.

Operating procedure:

1. Draw a layout of the leaves on a sheet of metal.
2. Cut out the leaves using a grinder.
3. Make small notches along the contour of each leaf.
4. Give them a natural, slightly wavy shape.
5. Weld the finished leaves to the stem.

The metal rose is ready. Now it can be decorated with thorns, which are also cut in the shape of triangles from a sheet of metal and welded to the stem.

Anti-corrosion treatment

To prevent the metal craft from deteriorating over time, it must be treated with an anti-corrosion substance. This can be varnish, spraying, paint.

Another option is motor oil. Before applying it, the rose must be heated. All parts of the craft should be treated with oil, after which the flower is again exposed to fire to remove excess.

Remember that it is better to perform all work either outdoors or in a specially equipped room that is well ventilated. And most importantly, do not forget about safety precautions when working with metal.

Blacksmithing technology allows you to create a huge list of items. Both tools and household items. But there is another direction - artistic forging, when entire works of art are created. At the same time, various patterns, decorations and even flowers are made from metal.

A forged rose will be an excellent gift or a good training for your skills. How to make it, what techniques and methods exist - more on this later in our material.

If you look for information on making a rose flower from metal using the blacksmith method, you can find many different techniques and techniques. The simplest of them are practically metalwork works with a minimum of forging. But there are also methods when a rose is made from one solid piece, using only forging technologies.

So, in what ways is a forged rose created?

Assembly from individual parts

To make a flower in this way, you will need a minimum of metal working skills. Blanks needed: rod 5-6 mm and sheet steel 1-1.5 mm.

The sheets are cut into blanks in the form of four interconnected petals. You will need 3 of them to get a completely voluminous flower.

Also, a cross in the form of pointed four petals is cut out from this sheet.

The next step is to take a rod, the end of which is heated and riveted. Then they move on to assembly.

Four-lobe blanks are placed on the end of the rod and welded on the outside.

Each of the elements is heated and twisted, gradually forming a flower.

After securing the first petal, all the rest are threaded with a rod from the other end.

When all the petals are installed, put on a cross, and the flower itself is heated and given the desired shape with pliers.

When the final finishing of the metal rose is completed, the flower must be burned and cleaned of traces of slag and burning. Additionally, you can work the stem with thorns and make leaves. The product should look like in the photo

But this method is more technically metalworking and welding than the Kuznetsk method. After all, blacksmithing techniques are practically not used. However, the method is original and easy to implement. Especially for those who do not have the appropriate equipment. How to make a rose using forged metal?

Forging

Forging a rose using this method uses all the skills of blacksmithing and the appropriate tools.

In essence, the basic technology is similar to that described in the previous section with the addition of basic Kuznetsk operations.

You will need rolled stock in the form of a 6 mm rod and 2-2.5 mm sheet steel for blanks for the petals of the future flower.

The rod is heated at one end and the edge is thickened. This can be done by holding it in a vice and using blows from the end to form a thickening.

To conveniently secure the petals around the thickening circle of the rod, you can make a groove with a chisel on the heated metal.

Blanks in the form of petals and crosses are cut from sheet steel in the same way as in the above method.

Each of the petals is pre-forged and thinned at the edges, dispersing the metal. At the same time, you can still create the veins inherent in a natural rose.

Before assembly, you can make thorns on the stem. To do this, you need to make thickenings on the rod using the planting technique, which are then, having secured the stem in a vice, formed into spikes.

Start assembling the flower from the prepared elements.

Each of the four-lobed parts is placed on a rod and welded. In this case, each element must be scrolled, making the desired shape. Also, after assembly, using pliers, give the product the desired volume and contours.

If you wish, you can also attach foliage to the stem. Each leaf is produced using the blacksmith method from a 2 mm steel sheet. A cutting is pulled from it, which is used to attach the element to the stem.

At the end of the work, the flower is cleaned of slag and carbon deposits.

You can also do a type of finishing such as bluing. To do this, you will need to apply a thin layer of unrefined oil to the product and heat it in the oven until the applied ingredient is covered with a varnish crust.

As a result of such blacksmithing “floriculture” the following result should be obtained:

Forged from a single piece of metal

This is the most blacksmith's way to make a forged rose with your own hands. To do this, you need a rolled blank: a circle with a diameter smaller than the planned parameters of the flower.

The blank is heated and stretched to a smaller diameter, thus making a stem. However, a part of the edge is left untouched; the future rose bud will form from it.

The workpiece is clamped in a vice and notches are made on the cylinder using undercuts.

After which, petal parts are again prepared from sheet steel, as in the previous two technologies, which are placed on the stem from the cut end. The formation of a bud is done using the same techniques; the element is secured, heated and rolled, obtaining a closed bud.

When all three or four metal parts are installed on the stem, their petals are opened with pliers, giving the desired shape to the forged rose.

To better understand the manufacturing technology, you can watch this video tutorial:

This video perfectly shows blacksmithing technologies for making roses.

What can you add to this material from your personal experience of blacksmith “floriculture”? To leave your comments, go to the discussion block.

From the moment of human development, when he began to actively use his hands in work, the results of his work became more and more complex, more perfect and more beautiful. At first, the purpose of making this or that thing was purely practical; later we began to make objects of art just like that, for aesthetic pleasure, without any hidden use for them.

Forged metal products have always been valued and admired. This is also due to the fact that looking at a high-quality forged item, we involuntarily imagine what a huge amount of work was done. After all, metal is metal and it is not as malleable as, say, wood.

DIY metal rose forging

Artistic metal forging of a rose can be done either from a single sheet of metal (which is more difficult to perform) or from component parts. The second option will be considered here. The whole rose will consist of four elements:

• a stem, which will be imitated by a thin iron rod;
• metal leaves on the stem;
• stars at the base of the bud;
• three four-leaf shapes cut from a sheet of metal.

Forging a rose from metal, process

Naturally, artistic forging of rose metal, and indeed any work of this kind, begins with a drawing of the future product. The principle by which the clover-shaped elements presented below will be cut is that they will be of different sizes, depending on the size of the planned product. If we correspond to the average natural size of a rose, then the first part will be about 80 millimeters, the second 90, and the third 100.

First you need to find thin metal sheets with a thickness of approximately 1 to 1.5 mm. Then make markings of the shape shown in the photo, corresponding to the above dimensions.

You can cut it with a plasma cutter; if you don’t have one, then use either metal scissors (if the sheet lends itself) or carefully cut it out by welding. It is preferable to cut with scissors and choose a sheet of metal that is soft enough for this, this will guarantee the accuracy of the cut.

1. After cutting out the elements, their edges must be cleaned. This can be done using a grinder. The end result should be a shape like this.
2. On the left is the element after cutting with a plasma cutter, and on the right after cleaning the edges (with a grinder disk).
3. The asterisk must be marked on the same sheet. Its diameter will correspond to the largest size of the element, i.e. 100 millimeters. It will look like this.
4. The next step is to stamp the texture of the petals using this hammer.
5. It turns out that this is the surface on the edges of future petals.
6. Now we have come to the most crucial moment. At this stage, the bowl shape of the cut out elements is formed. This is achieved using a special shape and a rounded hammer.
7. Due to the fact that the elements are of different sizes, the smaller one should fit freely into the larger one.
8. Now the most interesting and creative part of the work: Shaping the petals by folding them. To do this, you need to heat the workpiece and use a hammer or tongs to shape the future rose.
9. The final part of the work will consist of bending the base (star) and painting it in the color you want after the product has cooled.

Photos of finished products of various shapes and configurations

In order to decide on the shape, size, and color of the future product, it would be a good idea to look at how other people make forged roses. They may differ in color, be quite dull or, on the contrary, very bright.

For example, this one is made in bronze color with rather large petals.

This forged rose is the exact opposite of the previous one. She has a huge bright red bud on a neat, thin gilded stem. Looks great.

You can make a rose on a solid round stand, as in the next photo.

• The stand can also be made with a recess, in the shape of a plate, so that you can put small things there.
• The gilded color of the forged rose is perfect for a gift. Complete with it you can make a stand for a rose.
• The bronze color of the rose will perfectly decorate the living room.
• Forged candlestick, which is decorated with a bronze rose.
• A gilded bronze color would also be an unusual solution.
• The stand may not be solid, but in the form of a twisted rod. Looks good too.
• A very original idea. A wide twisted rod at the base of the rose with an abrasive pattern on it.
• This type of rose imitates a rose just beginning to fade, thanks to the petals hanging down to the ground at the base.

You need pieces of sheet iron with a thickness of 2-2.5 mm: 120x120 = 2 pieces, 100x100 = 1 piece.

Round rolled O10, square #10. Cut out petal blanks from the sheet.

We heat the rod O 10 and, stepping back from the edge by about 40 mm, we forge a transition to O8.

Then we clamp the workpiece in a vice and press the remaining end to O 12-13. Let's trim the boss and use a backing chisel to make an undercut at a distance of 5-10 mm from the edge - this will be the rod for the rivet.

Pull the rod back to #6-7mm.

When crimping, we roll the rod to Ø 6mm.

Now let's move on to the spikes. To forge a thorn, the stem is forged to 8, leaving part of the rod (l = 10mm).

Then, on the edge of the anvil, with two or three sharp blows of the hammer, we delay the protrusion. You have to hit very accurately.

Then we clamp the workpiece in a vice and install the protrusion through the guide (bar).

The spike is ready. We forge others (as many as planned) and complete the stem.

It's the petals' turn. On the petals you need to lower (make thinner) the edges and mark the veins. Well, it’s possible without veins, but I’ll do it.

Let's form the petals.

And also the lower petals.

And the middle of the corolla.

The time has come to “grow” the leaves. To do this, heat #10, pull the end onto a cone and leaving about 45mm, make a neck for the handle.

We break the workpiece, giving it the shape of a sheet.

We apply veins on the leaf.

And we pull back the stalk.

You can collect "to the heap".
Assembly procedure for a forged rose

Let's start assembling the flower. We clamp the stem in a vice, put the rims on the rivet rod and seal them. Let's rivet st.