Self-rooted roses are a crop grown from varietal cuttings, without a rootstock, and therefore are very demanding in terms of growing conditions. Self-rooted roses can grow well, bloom profusely and overwinter only on well-drained, deeply cultivated (at least 50-60 cm), light soils rich in humus.
Groundwater should be below the root system of the plant, and the area should not be flooded in the spring. On heavy clay soils get desired result, especially with hybrid tea varieties, almost impossible. But there is still a way out.
Conditions for growing self-rooted roses
If the soil on your site is unsuitable for growing roses, you will have to work a little.
For good churn excess water The area for self-rooted roses must be raised. Clay soils require additional sand and humus, at least in the planting holes.
Remember, you are not planting a rose bush for a year or two. To ensure normal growth and lush flowering for decades, you need to take care of the soil in advance.
It’s best to prepare landing hole. To do this, we dig it out, the deeper the better. Divide the excavated soil into 2 parts. The upper half is set aside, the lower half is removed from the site.
One and a half buckets of crushed stone or broken bricks are poured into the bottom of the pit. Cover with a bucket of sand. The deferred earth upper layers mix with a bucket of sand and 2 buckets of humus, add half a bucket of ash and 200g of superphosphate. Mix thoroughly and pour into the planting hole.
If the soil is dry, water and wait until the soil settles slightly. Only after that seat It’s ready, and you can plant a bush of your own roses in it.
Roses grown in a greenhouse, 10 days before planting in open ground hardened.
Container specimens are planted in a hole, slightly deeper, approximately 3-5 cm, to form additional roots.
The distances between bushes for floribunda and polyanthus varieties are 25x50 cm, for hybrid tea varieties - 35x50 cm, vigorous. climbing varieties roses - 100×200 cm.
After planting, the holes are well watered and mulched with humus or spruce branches.
Young self-rooted plants in the first year need frequent watering, mulching and loosening the top layer of soil. If a crust forms under the bush, aeration is disrupted, normal nutrition of the roots stops, the soil overheats, and the rose blooms poorly.
By August-September, on well-prepared soils and with proper care, annual self-rooted roses grow beautifully and go into winter as strong, strengthened plants.
For better ripening of the shoots in August, watering is reduced, the buds are cut off without greatly shortening the shoots, so as not to stimulate the growth of new ones. They do not apply nitrogenous fertilizers, but only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
With the onset of persistent cold weather, winter sheltering of rose bushes is carried out.
Let's look at the features of caring for self-rooted roses. How to choose soil for roses, how to plant roses? How to feed roses?
It is necessary with special attention treat the soil for own root roses, since its structure, temperature, humidity, presence are important for them nutrients. Standing level groundwater should be low.
Light, well-cultivated, well-drained soils rich in humus are better suited. Self-rooted roses grow well on them, tolerate winter well and bloom profusely. Such roses grow poorly on heavy clay soils that do not warm up sufficiently. They are especially contraindicated for heat-loving species - polyanthus, hybrid tea or remontant roses.
It is recommended to plant self-rooted roses in an area with a slight slope on the south or southwest side so that they are protected from north winds. If there is no natural slope, it is necessary to create raised beds so that the water drains well and the soil warms up. The seedlings are pulled out of the pots along with the lump of earth in which they developed and planted in the ground. Moreover, the depth of the holes for self-rooted roses should be 3-4 cm greater than the depth of planting in the pot (see figure), since due to deep planting, additional adventitious roots develop in the seedlings. The holes need to be watered abundantly and mulched with peat or humus.
Drawing. Planting self-rooted roses in open ground
Self-rooted roses need large quantities water for proper vegetation and flowering. This is explained by the fact that roses develop a superficial root system, which is located horizontally. Prolonged drought can cause the roots to overheat, causing the plant to weaken, stop growing and stop blooming. To prevent crust formation after watering and rain, it is recommended to regularly loosen the soil.
For normal development own root roses in summer period It is important to apply once every 2 weeks liquid fertilizers. It is better to use a solution of fresh mullein with the addition of mineral fertilizers.
In August-September, annual rooted roses begin the time for their most magnificent development, especially if warm weather with sufficient rainfall. If the soil is deeply cultivated and loose enough, then the roses take root well by this time, the roots grow in depth and width, the crown develops, and abundant flowering.
❧ Bulgaria is a global supplier of rose oil. More than 20 tons of this valuable product are produced from flowers grown in the Rose Valley.
When the first frost arrives, the roses are still blooming profusely, with many young shoots and buds growing. The fact is that they are very heat-loving evergreens, which by themselves are simply not able to prepare for overwintering. Therefore, from the 2nd half of summer it is necessary to begin work that will contribute to the cessation of growth and the appearance of shoots. So, it is necessary to finish cutting flowers in July, and from the beginning of August it is not recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers. It is better to use potassium-phosphorus fertilizers as a top dressing.
In October-November, self-rooted roses are prepared for overwintering. All growing tips of the shoots are cut off, all young shoots are removed from the main bush, and the bushes are hilled up using soil from the rows, creating mounds approximately 15 cm high (see figure).
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Drawing. Hilling roses
After the air temperature drops below -10-12 degrees and the soil freezes, you need to organize additional insulation, for example, from leaves and spruce branches (see figure), the height of which should be about 15-20 cm.
In the first year, self-rooted roses need to be insulated especially carefully. Once they reach 2 years of age, they will be able to get by in the winter with just one hilling. Moreover, park, polyanthus and climbing roses are the most frost-resistant.
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Drawing. Warming roses with spruce branches
Successful overwintering of self-rooted roses depends not only on temperature environment. More value has excess moisture in the soil in autumn and winter periods. The plant can survive the winter well, but die in the spring due to the fact that it gets wet and rots. Therefore, it is so important to remove the winter shelter in time and ensure good stock water on the site. It is necessary to remove the winter shelter gradually. When the snow melts, it is recommended to remove the leaves, but after the soil has completely thawed, the soil around the bushes is unmoulded, and when buds appear, the spruce branches are removed.
If the soils are heavy and cold, then most of the rooted roses enter the growing season later than the grafted plants. If the soils are light and warm up quickly, then such a difference does not exist.
To obtain seedlings, it is better to use some varieties of polyanthus, park, climbing, remontant and hybrid tea roses.
The vigor of growth and flowering in most varieties of self-rooted roses is the same as in grafted ones, and there are varieties that enter the growing season and flowering even earlier than grafted plants. Varieties of self-rooted roses that quickly take root and develop a deep root system differ good development and frost resistance.
In the spring, when the soil thaws and warms up a little, I transplant the roses to a permanent place. I dig a hole measuring 50x50 cm, put drainage on the bottom (a little crushed stone or broken red brick), pour in 2-3 buckets of humus, 1 liter of ash. 300 g superphosphate and a little dolomite flour, mix everything thoroughly and form it into a mound. I install the seedling so that its apical root is 7-10 cm below the soil level. Then I fill it with the top fertile layer of soil and water it abundantly. Related link: How to properly cut roses
Pest Control
When pests appear, I treat the bushes with a solution of Inga-Vir or Fufanon (according to the instructions) with the addition liquid soap. I try to do this late in the evening, when the flight of bees and other beneficial insects stops. For more long flowering Roses, pinch out strong annual shoots. Thanks to this, lateral growths with peduncles will appear on them.
how to grow your own root rose in the garden
There are a lot different ways grow your own root rose in the garden. I offer you the method with which I started myself... I still use this method.
It is best to take cuttings from roses in the spring, as soon as the ground thaws. But it is not always possible to meet this time. I had (and have) to take cuttings from roses throughout the summer and autumn.
In the summer, more time is spent on care, and in the fall, the cuttings take longer to root (the lower the temperature, the longer the rooting). . To grow a rose from a cutting you need a regular five or six liter plastic transparent water canister, plastic pot 1 liter, peat soil (you can buy a small package in the store). The acidity of peat soil is 5.5 - 6.5 (this is written on the package). It is best to plant cuttings that have just been cut.
This is not always possible, but there is a way to preserve the cutting: wrap it in very wet newspaper, then in plastic bag. The package with the cuttings should be stored in the cold (at a temperature of + 1, + 3 degrees). It is best to take a young branch that has not yet become woody.
Use sharp pruning shears to cut off the top of the branch. This top cut should be approximately 1 cm above the bud (or leaf, if this happens in the summer).
Leave a branch approximately 15 - 20 centimeters long (this will be the cutting), and also cut the rest (from the bottom of the branch) with pruning shears. Plant the cuttings in a pot filled with peat soil to a depth of about 5 cm.
If there are leaves on the cutting, then cut off those that may end up in the ground with pruning shears or scissors. There should be 2 buds of your cutting in the ground. Above the ground 2 - 3. Before planting in the pot, cut the bottom of the cutting with a very sharp knife.
Cut so that this bottom cut is at about a 45 degree angle (Try to make this bottom cut in one motion.). Try to ensure that the lower cut of the cutting is close to the lower bud (or leaf). Ideally, the lower cut is immediately below the lower bud. Once the cutting is planted, bury the pot with the cutting in a garden bed.
Bury the pot flush with the ground. Water well. Now take the prepared plastic transparent water bottle and cut off the bottom.
You will get a large transparent “cap”. Cover your buried cutting with this cap. If the leaves on the cuttings stick out too much to the sides, so that they rest against the walls of the jar, then they need to be cut off with scissors. But by no means all!
(You can press down this cut bottle a little with your hand - let it crash a little into the ground and stand firmly. You can sprinkle it with a little earth around the perimeter: the main thing is that our jar - the cap covering the stem - stands firmly in place).
When the cutting is planted, we stick a couple of ordinary garden arches above it. We stretch black agrospan onto the arcs (you can use any other non-woven material, - our task is to make a deep shadow). Make sure that the sun does not fall under this shelter throughout the day.
The best temperature for rooting rose cuttings (in our case, this is the temperature inside the jar with the cuttings) is 25 - 28 degrees. Rose cuttings take approximately 3 to 4 weeks to take root.
All this time you need to carefully monitor the humidity inside the jar with the cuttings. The humidity should be so high that drops of water are always visible on the walls of the jar inside. As soon as the drops begin to dry, you need to remove the jar and spray the cutting and the jar itself well inside.
In the evening, you can water the soil around the jar (without removing it from the cutting). Once every 2 - 3 days, in any case, the jar must be raised for 2 - 3 minutes (in the evening). Around the third week, the leaves on the cuttings (if any) will begin to turn yellow and fall off - they must be carefully removed from under the jar.
(This means that a thick white “ball” has formed in the ground at the bottom cut of the cutting - callus. Roots will begin to grow from this callus. So the cutting gradually becomes a small rose) After this, new leaves will begin to grow - do not remove the jar until then until the young rose fits in it. Gradually, in the evenings, begin to remove the jar and leave the rose for a while without its “cap”.
Gradually increase the time of such “walks”. For final removal of the shelter jar, try to choose cloudy weather. Proceed with the shading (black agrospan) in the same way as with the jar.
Remove gradually. If rooting occurs in the fall, then leave the rose under its jar for the winter. Cover on top of the jar. (I usually lay it with spruce branches). In the spring, remove it like a regular shelter. The site uses photographs only of my roses
Feeding according to all the rules ^
- Roses need to be fed regularly, preferably with horse manure, which must be aged and not fresh. It is mixed with soil and placed under bushes. Fresh pig and chicken manure can burn, so it is not suitable. If you notice that buds are forming, feed the plants with calcium nitrate - a tablespoon per bucket of water. Then water every 10-15 days mineral fertilizers, infusion of herbs or mullein. The procedures are completely stopped when the rose blooms.
It is useful to feed roses with calcium nitrate
- Before feeding, to avoid burns, water the plant thoroughly. After the procedure, another one is required abundant watering. It is best to carry out this work in the evening or early morning, during the day and in the heat you risk killing the fussy creature. Delicate creatures equally do not tolerate extreme heat and rainy cold weather. You can get rid of stress with resuscitation drugs. Epin, potassium humate, zircon, ecosil will help. Don’t forget the basic rule: during droughts, fertilizers are applied rarely and in small quantities, rainy summer- more often and more. Young roses cannot be fed in the first year of life. Be sure to protect the plants from overheating. Sissies do not like heat. At temperatures above 25 degrees, the soil becomes hot, overheats the roots and worsens the health of the entire plant. Help your pets, cool them by covering the bushes with humus, hay or peat.
Treatment and prevention of diseases ^
Diseases of roses, like all living things, are easier to prevent than to treat. Pests don't like strong smells, so... good neighbors will become sage, marigolds, and decorative onions. From time to time, just in case, disinfect your pets with infusions of garlic, onions, yarrow, and calendula.
From mid-July, lightly sprinkle with ash. Regularly inspect the entire plant with passion. Remove and burn suspicious leaves. It is necessary to remove dry branches in a timely manner. Fungal diseases often occur due to crowded plantings - maintain the required distance when planting. The plant will not be affected powdery mildew, if two or three times a week in the spring and in the first summer weeks, spray with a solution of baking soda.
40 grams per liter of water is enough. When attacked by aphids, do not rush to run for poisons. Try another natural recipe first. Into the bucket hot water add a piece of grated laundry soap and branches of wormwood.
Boil for 10-15 minutes. Spray the flowers with the cooled, strained solution. Pest won't give up?
After a week, repeat the treatment. If the aphids still have not disappeared, use chemicals, for example, Aktaru. In order for the plant to grow proportionally, in the first year of life, shoots that appear after the fourth or fifth leaf are pinched and the buds are removed. It is not difficult to give the desired shape.
When forming a spreading form, the central shoots that grow vertically are not touched; the lateral shoots are trimmed. Rose bushes require careful shaping. The compressed form requires cutting. internal shoots. This rose looks more voluminous. Stop pinching after you achieve the desired type. Now it's time for your harmonious pet to bloom.
How to prune roses and why you need it
You will have new worries as soon as a garden rose appears: caring for it, unlike other flowers, involves pruning. There is nothing wrong with this, thanks to the removal of unnecessary old and diseased shoots, new ones will appear - strong and healthy. The cut is made slightly above the healthy kidney, 5-8 millimeters.
The procedure is carried out in all seasons except winter. A sharp pruner is used; a blunt instrument can split the stems. In the spring, the plant is pruned immediately after it starts to grow. In the summer, buds that have bloomed are removed.
Cut off the damaged shoots between the second and third leaves, from the top. Grafted roses are deprived of wild growth. This work requires special care. If the “wild ones” are cut off at the same level with the ground, they will grow even more.
Correct removal is done from the base, removing soil from the root collar. Autumn pruning involves shortening elongated shoots and removing buds. Does excitement make you buy more and more roses? Caring for and propagating roses according to the rules is a way to create an amazing flower garden without much expense.
- An accessible method is cuttings
Cuttings are carried out in autumn or spring. Not very young, lignified cuttings take root better. Take a straight shoot, with 3-5 buds, not very long - 10-12 cm.
In spring, plant it in the ground and cover it with a jar to create a greenhouse effect. Let the seedling develop like this until the fall. Cuttings should not be planted in the fall. They will overwinter well in a container with sand in a cool basement.
When warmer days arrive, plant using the above method.
- A simple way - growing cuttings
You can supplement the collection by growing layerings. In the spring, the shoots of a developed plant are tilted to the ground, pressed, fixed and covered with earth. After a year, they turn into independent plants, which can be separated.
- A profitable way is to divide the bush
The easiest way is to divide the bush. Remove it from the soil and cut it into several pieces. The main thing is that each new specimen has a shoot and part of the roots adjacent to it.
You can propagate in this way in the fall or spring, until the buds open.
How to provide sissies with a comfortable winter ^
Take care of the warm wintering of heat-loving flowers. First of all, remove all fallen leaves and shoots that have not yet matured.
Be sure to treat the fungus with Bordeaux mixture. If light frosts occur (up to -5 degrees), do not worry, they will only harden the plants. Frosts below this temperature have arrived - it’s time to wrap the bushes.
Choose dry weather for work. Hill up the plants vigorously; the height of the mound is preferably at least 20 cm. Carefully bend the shoots to the ground and place them on pine or spruce branches.
Cover with dry leaves or spruce branches. Scheme for insulating roses of different typesMore reliable protection insulation will be used. A wire or wooden frame. Cover the structure with 3-4 layers of roofing felt or insulating paper.
Next “fur coat” - 2 layers polyethylene film. In such a “house” they preserve necessary for plants moisture and air. Pay attention to roses and they will delight you with beautiful flowers! Do not waste time caring for roses in the garden. For your kind treatment and care, these beautiful plants will long admire their lush flowering your family members and guests.
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User comments
- Julia (Added: 08/09/2013 at 13:24)
I would like to add that shoots cut in autumn can be saved until spring and rooted. To do this, all leaves from the cut parts must be removed. Place the stems in a box or wrap in cloth and bury them to a depth of about 30 cm. Place identification mark at this place. In the spring, dig up, cut into cuttings, removing the rotten ones (if any are formed), keep them for several hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator and plant in a semi-shaded place, covering glass jar. I tried this method more out of interest than from the need to grow new bushes. It worked.
Although many new gardeners are intimidated by growing roses, almost anyone can grow them.
Smart purchase of seedlings
To ensure that growing and caring for these plants is not difficult for you, you need to purchase seedlings wisely. There are two types of roses: grafted and rooted. If you live in a warm climate, then there is no difference in what plants to grow.
For residents with a more severe climate, it is necessary to opt for grafted plants. Growing grafted roses is easier, since they have a strong root system, and also have more buds, get sick less. Growing roses grafted on rosehips is practically no different from growing roses with their own roots, but it is necessary to remove so-called “wild” shoots more often. When choosing seedlings, be sure to inspect them from all sides.
You should not buy plants that have wrinkled or dry leaves, or the trunk has cracks or spots. The seedling must have at least three shoots, otherwise you will not get a developed lush spray roses.If it is possible to inspect the root system, then it should be without kinks.
It is preferable to buy plants in a container: they take root easier and are easier to care for. If you have purchased seedlings of bush roses or others, and it is cold outside, do not rush to plant them right away. It is better for them to be on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, the temperature there is from 0 to 5 degrees, and the plants will feel comfortable.
To prevent them from drying out, it is necessary to periodically moisten the root system. If you did not have time to plant seedlings in the fall, then you need to dig a trench about 40 cm deep. The seedlings are placed in it at an angle and sprinkled with earth and then with spruce branches. Together with snow, they will reliably protect plants from frost. You can save rose seedlings in cold basements, they are buried in a pot, and they tolerate cold well, and in the spring you can start planting cut roses.
Features of planting roses
Diagram-description and methods of treatment and prevention of the main diseases from which roses suffer. In order to grow beautiful and lush plants, they should receive a lot of light. The more there will be sunlight, the more actively new buds will form.
But in in this case You can't overdo it. If the area is flooded with bright light all day sunlight, then the petals will fade and turn pale, and you will not be able to grow a beautiful bush rose.
If you select shady places, then the plants will constantly reach for the sun and weaken; they are more often damaged by pests and fungal diseases. You cannot grow bush and other varieties of roses in the northeastern and northern parts garden plot. These are fragile plants and they are very afraid of drafts.
The south-eastern part of the garden will be best suited for bush roses. There should not be a lot of moisture, although roses love it, but it must be strictly dosed. Excess moisture causes powdery mildew.
Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology when planting and growing roses will allow you to get healthy and beautiful plants.
Soil selection
Pruning scheme for hybrid tea roses. In order for the plants to develop well, they should be planted in light soil, for example, black soil or loamy soils. Planting in sandy or sandy loam soil is undesirable, as they overheat in the summer and freeze in the winter, which leads to the death of roses.
If there is no choice, then to improve the said soil, peat, turf, humus, and lime are added to it. Plants can be planted in the spring, but when planted in the fall, they have time to gain more strength, adapt faster and begin to bloom earlier. In order for the seedlings to take root, they must be planted in September-October.
If you did everything correctly, then within two weeks new roots will begin to form, the plants will get stronger and will withstand frost normally. In spring, such plants quickly grow their above-ground parts and require minimal care.
When terms like "rooted roses" and "grafted roses" are used, new gardeners are confused. we're talking about, or rather, they do not see the difference between these two categories. Indeed, both roses are practically no different in appearance.
Is it better for a rose when it grows on its roots? And what will happen if it is grafted onto other roots? Let's identify the differences between native root roses and grafted shrubs.
All about grafted roses
Many of rose bushes at the market they are presented to buyers as “grafted” rose bushes. They have the top of a variety that is usually not as hardy when grown on its own root system. The lower part - the rootstock - belongs to another, more hardy variety, and sometimes wild species roses
In order to determine whether a rose has been grafted or not, examine the lower part of the plant: a protrusion in the form of a thickened ring will be visible at the grafting site. Ungrafted roses will have the entire stem the same.
Let's look at an example. If we need strong roses, then the lower part of the grafted bush can have roots climbing rose, for example, R. Multiflora or the “Doctor Hugh” variety, which is extremely hardy and strong, and in addition, shoots very quickly and actively. Even if upper part For some reason it will die, the lower one will give new shoots. The only downside in this case will be that “Doctor Hugh” does not bloom as beautifully as we would like, so it will have to be grafted again.
More good rootstock Fortuniana is considered for grafting roses. But it should be noted that in this case it is important not to forget about winter shelter, since these roses tolerate winter less easily. But at the same time, varieties grafted onto this type of rootstock produce flowering much more actively than those grafted onto R. Multiflora or Dr. Hugh.
So, when looking for rose bushes for your garden, remember that grafted bushes consist of two types of roses, so when the upper part dies, the lower buds and root growth will not inherit flowering properties. New plants may look like wild roses.
Roses on their own roots
“Own root” means that the rose bushes are grown on their own root systems. Some of these plants will be less hardy and more prone to disease until they mature. You can also find varieties that retain weak adaptation throughout their lives.
Before purchasing a rose with its own root system, you must make sure that the variety is guaranteed to be suitable for your conditions. In addition, do not forget that you can do the grafting yourself, so if you really like the plant, buy it, but only on condition that you have a good rootstock for it.
Most often you can find ungrafted dwarf (miniature) roses. They are indeed more tenacious than their tall, abundantly flowering relatives. Also, wild varieties of roses are not grafted, since they themselves are winter-hardy and strong against any disasters.
Conclusion: The advantage of roses growing on their own roots is the ability to maintain the purity of the variety, even if aboveground part will completely die. The advantage of grafted roses is resistance to cold and disease.
Which roses to choose, grafted or with their own roots?
Disputes on this topic have not subsided for a century. To decide, it is worth listening to both sides.
Flowering, early ripening.
- Self-rooted roses . Most of the heritage (old varieties of roses) are grown on their own roots. Such plants take root well and grow starting from ordinary rooted cuttings obtained from original plants taken from old gardens. Self-root roses are propagated by rooting stem cuttings of one rose variety. Such plants will produce several new full-sized stems each year, reaching maximum height and width in 2-5 years, depending on the variety. It should be noted that they do not bloom immediately in accordance with the ripening period, but when they reach the flowering period they give a gorgeous result.
- Grafted roses . Hybrid tea roses became popular in the 20th century, they were obtained by grafting onto another variety. Rootstock had already become a method of mass production the right variety. Roses are grafted onto a previously grown rootstock, so they usually reach mature size in 2-4 years. Those. you can save a whole year by getting early blooms.
Morbidity, survival rate. Grafted roses do not inherit, whereas roses with their own roots carry the disease with them when they reproduce. But from the point of view of survival, one can still argue here.
Self-rooted roses are usually sold in pots in moist soil all year round. When buying a seedling, you can tell with complete certainty whether it is alive or no longer suitable for planting. This plant is very simple, the survival rate in this case is also high. Grafted roses can be sent for sale only in a dormant state, therefore, when purchasing such a plant, we will not be able to find out whether it has retained its viability until the bush comes out of dormancy after it has been planted. In addition, with self-rooted roses you will never have to bother with removing unwanted growth. At the same time, grafted roses require regular removal of new shoots, since they will not be varietal.
Survival . A rose's own root, if it dies from the cold, can produce new varietal shoots. After the death of the aboveground part of the grafted roses, you will have to vaccinate again. A number of experts believe that some varieties grow better on their own roots, while they bloom profusely and are more hardy. Others claim this about grafted roses. However, practice shows that young roses on their own roots at first are not strong enough to fight some diseases, while grafted seedlings show the opposite result.
Initially, flower growers bred roses only from their own roots. Then someone enterprising thought of making a T-shaped cut on the shoot and inserting the eye of another rose into it.
There was a time when a cutting of a favorite rose was rooted under a pickle jar. Nurseries planted plots with hundreds of cuttings and waited for them to take root. The introduction of budding brought fundamental changes to the production of roses, and the process of breeding them was significantly accelerated. Latest methods allowed even weak roses to survive on their own roots and, thanks to the powerful roots of the rootstock, achieve marketability.
For several decades now, rose growers have been arguing about the advantages of budding (grafted) roses compared to their own roots. For many years, budding roses were hailed as a scientific achievement. But self-rooted roses also have many advantages: winter hardiness, disease resistance, abundant flowering. In addition, they do not form a rootstock. The disadvantage of budding roses is that in the northern regions their cultivation requires a lot of effort, otherwise they will freeze in winter.
Which roses to choose
Preference for grafted or own-rooted roses is not only the result of personal preferences. Sometimes it all depends on what's on the market planting material: some varieties of roses are sold only grafted, others - rooted, and the situation is constantly changing. Due to various transformations in economic system rose production, the world's main suppliers modern varieties, like producers of antique and collection roses, began to offer mainly their own root roses. The fact is that budding roses requires certain knowledge, skills and experience. But to simply plant shoots in the ground, you do not need qualifications, and such work can be mechanized in some part.
Endurance and health
The advertisement claims that the two main advantages of self-rooted roses are increased winter hardiness and resistance to the mosaic virus. However, since the virus spreads during the propagation process, using a cutting from a diseased plant will result in a native rose infected with the virus. On the other hand, if you graft healthy plant on a virus-free rootstock, the budded rose will be virus-free. Knowledgeable and responsible rose growers always work only with roses that are not infected with the virus, so it does not matter what breeding method they use.
When the production of budding roses moved from specialized nurseries to wholesalers, these plants began to be sold in the northern regions. Manufacturers recommended planting the rose so that the grafting site is 2.5 cm above the ground. However, there is experience that a budding rose, planted with a graft 2.5 cm below ground level, will be as winter-hardy as its own root.
It has already been proven that the endurance of a rose is determined by its. This means that if it is grown on its own roots, it will not become more resilient. George S. Thomas, an American rose grower of the early 20th century, conducted joint experiments with grafted and rooted roses. He ultimately concluded that rooted roses, with the exception of ramblers and species roses, required a climate “free of extremes of any kind” to succeed. This was written by a man who lived exclusively for roses and for roses (maybe that’s why his widow hired a bulldozer shortly after her husband’s death and destroyed all the roses), so his conclusions are trustworthy.
Both budding and self-rooted roses can suffer from problems due to various reasons arising during the production process. For example, budding roses grow very long from the grafted eye to the roots, which, as a rule, creates difficulties when planting in northern regions. At the same time, many of the company's customers were sent their own rooted roses with an undeveloped root system in small pots. Flower growers call such rooted cuttings “scrambles.” Of course, with very compassionate care And with a lot of effort, they will turn out to be full-fledged plants, but you will have to work tirelessly.
Sometimes nurseries grow some roses on their own roots, offering them to customers as seedlings with a lush, attractive shape. It must be remembered that self-rooted roses rarely have a lush form, and this is only possible if a bushy variety was used for this breeding method.
When buying a varietal rose, flower growers, of course, expect to receive the same plant that nurseries once chose for introduction. However, some varieties, such as Peace and Amber Queen, can be seriously damaged by grafting with weak eyes. This happens either due to negligence or due to haste - if the nursery needed short term get a lot of seedlings. Such a decrease in the growth energy of budding roses is excluded when breeding rooted roses: a cutting with weak eyes simply will not produce a marketable seedling and, therefore, will not go on sale.
So which is better?
For experienced florist If you use the services of a serious nursery with a good reputation, it does not matter whether you buy a budding or your own rooted rose. It all depends on personal preference. For example, a fastidious florist will purchase a Canadian rose of the Explorer series - rooted, and a hybrid tea - on a rootstock. If you need a specific variety, you will have to take the rose in the form in which it is offered. Typically, antique roses are grown in nurseries on their own roots, while most hybrid tea and floribunda roses are budded.
After planting, gardeners rarely think about the roots of roses, and in vain:
- If you carefully examine them, you will once again be convinced that both grafted and self-rooted roses have advantages.
- You often find that best plants were initially grafted, and over time began to grow on their own roots. The fact is that the roots have the ability to grow at the base of the trunk or on any part of the rose that is underground or touching it.
Taking into account all of the above and analyzed, we can draw the following conclusion: nothing accelerates the growth of a rose more than a powerful rootstock, but own roots eliminate many problems when growing.