Introductory part. Who is this article for? What is this article for?
There are conferences on the Internet dedicated to cross-country skiing. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly new skiers, ask me questions about choosing equipment. Over time, answers accumulated that I wanted to formalize somehow.This article should answer the basic questions that arise for a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after this a lot of time passes, equipment, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate this modern abundance. Unfortunately, stores do not always have qualified salespeople who can thoroughly answer questions that arise. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, “I was in the AAA store yesterday. I didn’t get an answer to a single question. They don’t have a catalog or consultants.” or “I was in the BBB store in the summer. I “tortured” the seller for an hour. I didn’t learn anything except the price.” In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to “promote” the buyer to buy more expensive equipment; this sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.
I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and get the most out of skiing for yourself and your family.
Ski selection
And yet it's plastic...
First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Nowadays, skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in the construction of skis). A person who has been skiing on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - strong recoil, which turns skiing from pleasure into real torture. The person is perplexed - I would have traveled N kilometers long ago on pieces of wood, but here I am forced to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It’s especially offensive if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons for him into a humiliating crawl, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden skis. Firstly, wood gets pretty ruffled when rubbing against snow, which practically never happens with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared - with a HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only sometimes a little warmer ointment was added under the block. These two factors ensured the lack of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be lubricated, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they are used to lubricating wooden ones. So, kickback on plastic skis can be avoided, but we’ll talk about this in more detail in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding properties, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if you shouldn’t even try to reach positive temperatures on wooden skis, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.Start with the classics
When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you are skiing at and what style you are going to ski mainly, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different equipment. There are so-called “universal” skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness optimal for classic skiing, then skating on them will be, let’s say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in classic ones, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually sanded. Skate skates require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are entirely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). But for classic ones, lubricating the block with paraffin is contraindicated. If you then apply a holding ointment to this paraffin (or even its remains), it will come off very quickly. In general, you should not combine incompatible things. (But don’t shy away from the word “universal” - these are completely normal skis, just choose the length and stiffness according to your skiing style).Therefore, if you want to try both styles and the funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The skate requires wide prepared trails, and there are few of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many times more places for skiing. Also keep in mind that prepared skating trails are most often laid over difficult terrain with large ascents and descents - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It’s not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route; you can “stand up” after the second or third climb. And you can’t drag your family along such a route with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating route near you, consider yourself lucky. In this case, the skating style is definitely worth trying.)
Which skis should a beginner choose?
First, about prices. Racing skis that are at the top of the range of famous brands such as Fischer, Atomic, Madshus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $200 and $350. Inexpensive domestic ones, such as STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $35. Mass-produced (amateur) models from well-known brands cost around $70-100. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your “image”. You can spend 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training, you yourself will understand what you need and where to move. The exception is if you have a lot of weight, say, over 70 kg. The main problem with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to choose among them the ones that suit your weight. Here you will have to move to a different price range and choose mass models from well-known brands. We will return to this issue below.What is the difference between branded skis and those made here in Russia? The quality of top models from well-known brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. Such skis, intended for high-class competitive skiers, are manufactured in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company itself is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is simulated on a computer. Before launching into production, new developments are thoroughly tested by qualified athletes. Expensive materials are used in manufacturing, often coming from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high; all skis undergo extensive testing on special computerized stands. All this together allows us to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" No. 17, 10 and other issues. However, manufacturers make most of their money on skis for the mass market, of which much more is required than for elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's take an analogy with computer technology. It is no secret that components for mass production, even from such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others, are mostly manufactured in Southeast Asia, for example, in Taiwan. It's a similar story with mass skiing. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of different brands, including under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by the Fisher company), and we have the STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis on orders from Madshus, Karhu, and Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as well as the inexpensive Madshus and Karhu ski poles. And our own skis and poles under the STC brand differ from them mainly in appearance and lower price.
Now let’s learn more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass skis intended for amateurs. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are difficult to combine, such as the weight of the ski and its stiffness. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from powder during sintering under pressure and at high temperature. This porous plastic is harder and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to last over long distances. In addition, different weather conditions and piste preparation place different demands on skis. Therefore, in the world of racing skis, specialization is common, allowing you to achieve the best glide in certain conditions, but at the same time forcing you to have several pairs of skis. Models are produced specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft tracks, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 more, since skis are produced for skate and for classics). In addition, designers compete in such parameters of skis as torsional rigidity, course stability, vibration damping and ski control when sliding quickly on slopes, and others. An analogy with the world of cars is appropriate here. There are many good cars that allow you to drive quickly and comfortably on various roads in different weather conditions. But as soon as we are talking about competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises the need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, tires for specific surfaces and weather conditions, fine-tuning the suspension for each track and tire, and a lot of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis best demonstrate their exceptional qualities on specially prepared tracks. Just as it’s difficult to imagine racing a McLaren on roads near Moscow, you shouldn’t expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken, loose track trodden in the nearest forest. Simpler models are more appropriate here.
Amateur (mass) skis are universal and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore they are a little heavier. For example, if a pair of racing skis weighs about 1 kg, then amateur ones weigh on average 1.4 - 1.5 kg. Inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less wax, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not last as long on the ski. But this doesn’t really matter if your usual “norm” does not exceed 10-15 km. As written in Ivan Kuzmin’s article “For Parents of Growing Skiers” in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of the ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of the skis, 20% is determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of the skis, and the last 20% is determined by the lubrication of the skis. Therefore, by successfully selecting skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving performance, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.
Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis is that if you mainly walk in the woods with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier and buy yourself racing models, then these simple skis will be yours for the first and last snow, on which it’s a pity to tear expensive skis.
There are skis with notches under the block. They seem to hold up well on soft snow. And they are attractive because, as buyers often assume, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I wouldn’t recommend these, unless you really don’t want to mess around with lubricant. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, the conventional ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without notches are more versatile. The notch will work well on a medium-soft ski track, but not on a compacted hard (or icy) one and not on a loose one. And ordinary skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out and the holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, whether or not to take notched skis is a matter of taste.
How to choose skis
As written above, the weight deflection determines the performance of the ski by 60%. Therefore, selecting skis according to this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of pressure of the ski on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called the ski diagram. Here is a typical picture for classic skis (ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com): |
The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow under increasing load at approximately half the weight of the skier, when the skier rides on two skis. In the lower part, the pressure distribution when pushing with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating skis the picture will be different, since when pushing they should not have a maximum pressure under the block (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):
That is, skate skis should be stiffer than classic skis for the same skier.
A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the effort applied. Otherwise, excess pressure on the snow may appear in certain areas of the ski, which will lead to braking of the ski and rapid loss of lubricant in these areas. Here are the drawings from the article by V. Smolyanov (LS Magazine No....).
You can check the diagram of a ski only on rather complex equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of skis.
So, you came to the store... Let's assume that you have already decided on your skiing style, price range and, possibly, ski models.
The procedure could be as follows:
1. Look for several pairs of skis that suit your length. For classic skis, the length should be the height of the skier + 25-30 cm, for skate skis the height of the skier + 10-15 cm.
2. Check ski geometry. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense; put them aside). However, do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but check". Look along the ski from the sliding surface. The ski should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should be no “screw” - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform smooth bend without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.
3. Select skis according to their hardness.
For classics, the most correct definition of stiffness is this: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers by the sides). Place them parallel to each other on a FLAT floor with a sliding surface (if they allow you to do this in the store, just in case, take a newspaper underneath). If the skis have straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (the skis are not made using CAP technology), then checking the floor is simple - lay the ski on its side, it should fit snugly semi. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote from the “Short course of the Skiing discipline” of the Russian State Academy of Physical Culture: “Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces are under the load part (a distance of 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the binding (means about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the athlete stands on them with both feet. In the case when the skier transfers his body weight to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski must be adjacent to the floor. In practice, this can be checked simply - one person stands on skis, and the second guides under the block with a thin sheet of paper. When you stand on both skis, the places where the paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the block. If you transfer your weight to one ski, then the piece of paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor. Then transfer your weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor. The test with a piece of paper can be done by one person, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when determining the length of the last.
If conditions do not allow using this method, then you can approximately determine the stiffness as follows: carefully fold the skis with the sliding surface facing each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the strength of the hand approximately corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that your wrist strength does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise your wrist with a resistance band).
Large stores sometimes have special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.
The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another “folk” way of determining stiffness. An average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should push the skis with both hands until they fully touch the sliding plastic under the block. If it doesn’t crush him, it means the skis are definitely too hard for him.
For skating the ski gap when compressed with one hand should be greater - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine it on the floor with a piece of paper, then just under the boot the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you put your weight on one ski.
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Please note that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, since without good technique, they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (This means soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described methods dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)
Then check the compression of the skis evenly. In this way, you will indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the performance of the ski. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap at the top and bottom should decrease in proportion to the force and evenly. Usually the tips of the skis are a little softer than the heels, so at first the gap between the tips of the skis decreases faster than between the heels, this is normal. As a result, the gap under the block should be the last to disappear, approximately at the point of compression. In this case, the skis should fit tightly to each other throughout, there should be no gap between them. The toes of the skis should not move apart as they compress. In addition, each ski must bend equally. (It happens that skis are not selected for stiffness and, when fully compressed, one is slightly bent and the other is arched.) After bending, you should be left with the feeling that the tip and tail of the ski meet the definition of “elastic”.
Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin’s article “For Parents of Growing Skiers” in LS No. 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:
- The ski compresses with noticeable force from the very beginning.
- At first the ski compresses very easily, and then a “stop” occurs; with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock at the front of the block.
- When the owner squeezes hard, the skis touch under the block.
- With strong compression by the owner, a gap of more than 2 mm remains under the block (except for skis on ice).
(Here we mean squeezing with one hand).
(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to first use hand compression - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair using a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)
4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each ski in the pair. Then fold the skis together, the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally coincide, but a discrepancy of about 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you install the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, by placing the ski on the back of a knife or the end of a thin ruler.)
5. Check the sliding surface. It should not be concave or curved in diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.
Otherwise, preparing the skis will be very difficult - the iron and scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Small deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be cycled, which requires experience and a ski machine.) To check, place a flat object at the beginning, middle and end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.
There should be no obvious or major damage to the plastic - holes, bumps, peeling, etc. . Minor flaws - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or rigidity). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, skis should not be completely smooth. A smooth ski glides worse. Therefore, almost all skis have a “structure” on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs along the edges of new skis are removed with fine sandpaper using light movements from the toe to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of riding.
6. Once a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.If you still could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:
The STC factory uses lightweight wood such as poplar or aspen to produce skis, and the power load is carried mainly by laminate plates and fiberglass. Therefore, the skis are mostly soft. When I was choosing inexpensive training classic skis made by STC (under the Madshus brand) for my weight of 60 kg, I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small plastic bubble on the toe of the ski, and a few cosmetic blemishes. But they had the toughness they needed. As a result, I removed the bubble with sandpaper, and the skis turned out very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the Peltonen and Karhu brands. In addition, STC skis are also hidden behind sonorous names like Viking, Sable, Magnum.
Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisa skis are usually stiffer, the wood they use is stronger, but these skis are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to choose skis if you are above average weight. The yew produced in 2001 is very well made, but it is also expensive.
If funds allow, then you can safely take products from well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis costing 80-100 dollars, there is less variation in parameters and easier choice. But all the main stages of selection must be repeated with such skis.
Choosing ski boots
If funds allow, then take boots with Rotefell NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old systems with welts. Of course, mounting these systems is not cheap. But they're worth it. If you think your budget won't allow you to spend $40-50 on a racing binding, there are some great touring bindings that cost $20-25. The price range for boots extends from about $50 for a touring boot to about $200 for a racing boot. As with skis, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. In fact, boots have little effect on skiing speed, so it’s not necessary to chase the top models. But if you intend to try yourself in the skating style, then take skate models with a high, rigid cuff that covers the ankle. Or combined ones, similar in appearance to skate shoes, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classic in them. Specialized middle-class models will cost more than tourist-class boots. When choosing, pay attention first of all to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, but one may be perfect for your feet. You can take boots from models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with almost the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For riding in the forest, tourist-class boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only use fastenings for the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Boots with such soles essentially have only one drawback. If you walk a lot on asphalt in them, the plastic sole on the toe of the boot wears away almost to the metal bracket that fits into the groove of the fasteners. The staple most likely will not be able to fall out - it is embedded quite deeply in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the seal will deteriorate and the boots will lose their presentation. Craftsmen use various methods to protect expensive boots if it is not possible to wear them near the ski track. One option is rubber galoshes worn over boots. Better than galoshes with soft fabric inside. Rubber ones just leave marks on a light-colored shoe or peel off the paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that snow doesn’t get in them, and bury them in the snow under some kind of tree. On the way back I put it on. The second method is described in LS No. 16. A piece of rubber tube/hose with an internal diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the staple and a length equal to the length of the open part of the staple is cut in a spiral and put (screwed) onto the staple. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and placed in the pocket.Choosing ski poles
Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. Poles made of 100% carbon fiber are light and stiff, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass poles are not as stiff, bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range poles can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass ones are quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have much strength and weight.Plastic (composite) poles sometimes break. This can happen when you fall on a stick or when you lean on a stick with your entire weight and lose balance, although not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong push - I didn’t hit the axis of the stick with force - and I was done.
If your weight is high, then take stronger poles with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bendable sticks with large rings that were produced about 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.
Domestic poles produced by STC (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEHK (Ural Electro Chemical Plant). For an amateur, Balakovo sticks are also a good choice; they are cheaper, but their quality is good (produced under the Volzhanka brand). Decent domestic poles cost from 300-400 rubles.
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Ski lubrication
First, a few words for those completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic ride, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with holding ointment so that there is no kickback. The length of the last is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot, placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the last by another 10-15 cm to the tip of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised to smear the back (!!!) of their skis to avoid recoil.)Skating skis are lubricated along their entire length with glide lubricants.
The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of tools and, most importantly, the time spent preparing skis is greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.
If you have read materials from Swix or other companies on preparing skis, you can estimate how much time it will take minimum professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weathering paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removing with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, at least half an hour you will be fiddling with one pair. Plus additional “pleasures” - the smell (though not strong), scraping off paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor, that's the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I were preparing skis at his house, we rolled up the rug, then, of course, we put everything away, but some remnants of paraffin apparently remained on the floor, and the rug began to slide wildly... I remember the kind words of his wife... In short, we need space where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the paraffin residues will be spread throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when due to dryness and static electricity these residues tend to stick to everything. It happens that while you are busy with the preparation, your family loses all desire to ride. This is only for diehard fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options that are cheap and have good results; they will be written about in the following sections.
In order to have an idea about the process of professional ski preparation, read A. Grushin’s article “How to prepare skis?” from the magazine "Ski Racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from the Fisher store.
Ski slip ointments
Sliding lubricants come in different types. Paraffins are most often used, and in professional sports they also use accelerators (powders or compressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. Such lubricants are quite expensive, but are consumed quite quickly. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not buy expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But there is no point in taking a lot. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather... In professional lubricants, this is solved by rolling out paraffins, but those who like to torment themselves with a choice have no need.If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then it is better for you to buy fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is generally below 50%, then you will be fine with fluoride-free paraffins.
Among the inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you just fine. (These lubricants are rolled out in the Moscow region, and they work well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and works well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small fluorine content) for three temperature ranges. It’s also worth taking tablets - the MVIS accelerator. They have No. 238 for sunny weather for temperatures -9+5, lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather in which it is really good, but it will also go in cloudy weather, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once you apply it cold, you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but is spent very economically - it will last for many years.
For humid climates, fluoridated gels, pastes, sprays or emulsions are good. Apply to the sliding surface using a cotton swab or spray, dry or heat with a hairdryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: a little expensive, quickly consumed, lasts up to 10-15 km.
Ski holding ointments
Holding ointments come in solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must satisfy two requirements. First, the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski “sticks” to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, allowing the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, pressure under the block is also present, but the ointment should allow him to glide on one ski and “brake” only at the moment of push. Therefore, selecting the optimal holding ointment that provides the best combination of grip and glide is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternating layers of different ointments, applying them in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques are used.Amateurs can smear themselves easier. In order not to fool your head, I will give the simplest rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (fluorine-free) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put ointment, the lower limit of the temperature range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if it is now -5, then put the ointment -1+1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and therefore its retention, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take with you a plastic rub (the so-called “cork”) and a warmer ointment and colder than the one smeared at home. If you don't get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much, put a colder one on top; if it doesn't hold well, put a warmer one on top. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the block forward to the tip of the ski.) It takes a couple of minutes to get smeared, and you will enjoy skiing for the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a specific region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly discover what works best for you.
For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment will be enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you smear yourself at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.
Liquid ointments are more often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (this is difficult to do in the cold, better at home).
A klister may be needed for above-zero temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in the case when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to damage the case. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are standing vertically, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after riding, it is better to immediately remove the klister using a remover (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry cloth).
At sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:
- Podlip. At transition temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter “sticking” - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
- Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional -2 -0, but it also happens at -25) the ointment may begin to “ice up” - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a shock, begin to break off, leaving the ends in the ointment, and an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. This can also happen if you start skiing immediately after leaving home, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the ointment that has not cooled down can quickly disappear. Allow the skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
- The condition of the snow in the ski track and outside it can be different, so the ointment that allowed you to roll normally in the ski track can greatly slow you down when leaving it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, such as in the forest.
Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes
Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or other company) manual for preparing skis, you get the impression that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all sorts of tools and materials for the skis. This is really necessary for professional ski training. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (as the sliding surface is sometimes called), which is made of high-molecular sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be made from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - the paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at high temperatures, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin’s article “Use the iron correctly” in LS No....). A good ski iron can be bought for 60-70 dollars.New skis, regardless of whether you then use hot wax application or not, are still better to treat them the first time using an iron. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old old one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth on hand. If the paraffin suddenly begins to smoke, you can quickly lower the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the iron's thermostat to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski at all times. It is better to use a household iron sideways, with the wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.
- Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: place fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive facing up, and straighten the sandpaper with a ruler so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs or irregularities. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler into a semicircle on the sandpaper (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these angles to the groove of your skis so that you can then remove the wax from the groove. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles to suit different pairs. Look at branded scrapers in the store to get an idea of what you should end up with.
- A nylon brush is used to remove remaining paraffin after it has been removed with a scraper. If you will use hot paraffin application, then a fairly stiff brush is necessary. To do this, I had to use household brushes such as “iron” or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. “Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats,” but you can also remove excess paraffin.
- Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from the plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (In fact, the residual lint will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Household abrasive plates that are approximately the same in appearance may not contain the same abrasive and only add lint. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy it... Probably not necessary.
- Fiberlene is a non-woven material used for final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed; you can polish your skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.
- SWIX sandpaper No. 100 is used for sanding classic ski lasts so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household sandpaper of the appropriate grain size will do. In general, you need to sand under the block if you are running more than 20-30 km or on ice.
- Swix T-89 razor scraper, used for removing lint - not needed by an amateur.
- Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will cycle yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be sanded. A cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And it’s as easy as shelling pears to ruin a ski when scraping - your hand trembles and there’s a wave or a scratch. Amateurs don't need it.
- Knurling is used to apply a structure to a sliding surface. Amateurs don't need it. The universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.
- A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight deterioration in gliding by using warmer paraffin, then you don’t need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a frost gel or accelerator that is applied in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.
- The wash is used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off sliding paraffin if it is not possible to use hot ski cleaning. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - it just didn’t have to be cleaned.
- Rubbing (cork) is used to level out holding ointments. Plastic is better for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Definitely needed.
Additional ski accessories
Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be a place to store your skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with the holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to remove it from clothes without a solvent or remover. Good domestic cases cost from 200 rubles. Take a case for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.It's a good idea to take Velcro ski ties. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski will be damaged during transportation by poles or bindings of another pair. If you walk close to the ski track, then you can carry your skis without a cover. Skis that are tied together are more difficult to get dirty on. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the bundle is between the sliding surfaces of the skis; they should not touch.
Rags. To treat your skis you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a remover, brush away the remaining paraffin after passing through the scraper and brushes, and so on. At worst, you can even polish your ski after applying paraffins with a rag without pressing hard.
How to store skis
Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a cover with skis on the glassed-in balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis sucked; it was good that they were inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.Simplified ski lubrication technologies
You can read about the intricacies of applying lubricants using a hot method (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin’s article “Use the iron correctly” from LS No. ... In particular, he does not recommend the use of household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.You can try this method (I experimented): take a metal ladle with a lid, say, a liter one. It should not be enameled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald yourself. Cover the ladle with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial treatment of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point significantly lower than 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin must first be rubbed in a thick layer onto the sliding surface, and the ski must lie horizontally, with the sliding surface facing up, for example, on two stools.
Boiling water and a ladle that conducts heat well are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin like that, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools. Make several slow passes from the tip to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and get scalded. Therefore, for regular use, it is better to purchase a ski iron.
Another way. Paraffin can be applied by vigorous rubbing. First of all, clean your ski. If there is a clear layer of old wax on the ski, then lightly go through it with a plastic scraper and/or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin (it is convenient to control this by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). It doesn’t even have to be a completely continuous layer. Then take the cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The heat generated is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then brush lightly from the tip to the tail of the ski. The time required is minimal. There is practically no dirt, no machine required. On regular snow it will last at least 10 km.
There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination supposedly generates enough heat to cold apply the accelerators. Simulated with a thick synthetic felt insole wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins using the cold method.
What ski waxes to buy for ski preparation
Depending on your level of training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lube that are sufficient for riding.Minimum.
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Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:
3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment, covering the temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rubbing.
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Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go out on the ski slopes at above-zero temperatures, because at above-zero temperatures you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).
Sufficient.
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Advanced.
This kit may be needed by a fairly advanced and trained skier, so in many ways the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in L.S., from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list as well. To all of the above you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(this lubricant is especially effective in conditions of high humidity). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static tension from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and tablet-form pure fluorocarbons), knurls (for applying a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. In addition, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments from often completely different manufacturers work well in different weather conditions. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times over compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.
If you choose skis for walking or for your child for physical education, then you are on the right track. From the article you will learn how to choose the right skis based on height, material and other characteristics, what to pay special attention to, and what can be ignored.
- what do you need skis for (recreational skis, cross-country skis for competitions, downhill skiing, hunting, etc.);
- your level of skating (beginner amateur or professional);
- your physical parameters (weight and height).
How to choose cross-country skis
Cross-country skiing is chosen depending on your preferred skiing style. There are three styles:
- classical,
- ridge,
- combined.
Classic skis
Our grandfathers and grandmothers rode in the classic style, sliding along two parallel tracks, but it has not lost its relevance. The classic style is best suited for the beginner skier.
Length
Skis for classic skiing should be 20-30 cm longer than your own height. For beginners, you can choose a slightly shorter length, then it will be easier to control them.
Rigidity
If you have seen skis, then you know that they have an arched shape and if you put them on the floor, then their middle will not touch it. The more difficult it is to push the ski to the floor, the stiffer they are.
The stiffness must be selected depending on your weight. The heavier the skier, the greater the stiffness should be.
You can check the correct selection of skis in terms of stiffness in the following way:
- put your skis on the floor;
- place a sheet of paper under the middle;
- stand with both feet on both skis, there should be a gap to the floor and the sheet of paper will move freely;
- stand with both feet on one ski, it should completely touch the floor, and the piece of paper will be pressed to the floor and you will not be able to pull it out.
Following the above example, choose the stiffness of the skis. Some manufacturers indicate what weight they are intended for.
With and without notch
Skis for classic skiing can be with or without notches on the sliding surface.
Skis without notches are suitable for any weather, for long walks and fast riding.
They are more difficult to ride as they can slip backwards. To eliminate this deficiency, special ointments are used.
This is a new style of skiing, also called free style. The skier makes skate-like movements, pushing off with the inner surface of the skis. With its help you can develop the highest speed.
For the skating style, a compacted wide track is ideal, but you can do without it; then you won’t have to count on high speed.
Skis for skating are selected a little shorter and stiffer than for the classic style.
Length
For skating, the length of the skis should be 10-15 cm greater than the height of the skier.
Rigidity
The rigidity should be approximately twice as high as for the classics. If you press the ski with your hand to the floor, there should be a gap of 1.5-2 mm.
All-mountain skis
As the name suggests, all-mountain skis are something between classic and skate skis. This applies to both the parameters of choosing skis (average length and stiffness) and the style of mixed skiing.
Length
All-mountain skis should be 15-20 cm larger than the skier's height.
Let's summarize: cross-country skis are suitable for flat terrain, for beginners it is better to choose classic ones with notches, and for advanced ones, universal ones.
| Skier's height | Classic skis | All-round skis | Classic walking poles | Skating poles | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 150 | 170/180 | 170 | 165 | 120 | 130 |
| 155 | 180 | 170/180 | 170 | 125 | 135 |
| 160 | 185 | 180 | 175 | 130 | 140 |
| 165 | 190 | 185 | 180 | 135 | 145 |
| 170 | 195 | 190 | 185 | 140 | 150 |
| 175 | 200 | 195/200 | 190 | 145 | 155 |
| 180 | 205 | 200/205 | 190/195 | 150 | 160 |
| 185 | 205/210 | 205 | 195 | 155 | 165 |
| 190 | 210 | 205 | 195 | 160 | 170 |
| 195 | 210 | 205 | 195 | 165 | 175 |
Ski material
All skis are made of wood or plastic.
In the past, plastic skis were rare and expensive. Now, on the contrary, most people ride on plastic.
Advantages of plastic skis:
- they are stronger and therefore more durable than wooden ones;
- snow sticks to them less during the thaw;
- more speedy.
The most reputable companies producing plastic skis are Atomic and Fischer. You can buy equipment from them for both beginners and professional sports. You can also highlight domestic ski manufacturers “Karelia” and “Tisa”.
How to choose the right skis
Alpine skiing is very different from cross-country skiing, both in design and in the method of selection. Their main purpose is to descend from mountains, developing high speeds.
Remember right away, if you are new to alpine skiing, then you cannot choose professional alpine skis. They are designed to develop very high speeds, which you as a beginner may not be able to handle, which will lead to injury.
Length
The size of alpine skis is selected not only depending on the height of the skier, but also on his professional skills. The shorter the skis, the easier they are to control.
If you are a beginner skier, then the length of your skis should be 20 cm less than your height.
If you have been skiing downhill for several years now and have achieved good results, then you should have skis that are 10 cm shorter than your height.
For a professional, skis as long as his own height are suitable.
For women, it is better to reduce the above length by another 5 cm, and for people with above average weight, on the contrary, increase it by 5 cm.
Rigidity
The basic rule for choosing the stiffness of alpine skis is that the higher the professional skills and weight of the skier, the stiffer they should be.
The one with the least rigidity is suitable for a beginner, as they are easier to control.
Hard and medium-hard skis are suitable for professionals and people who have been skiing confidently from the mountains for several years. Since they are designed for sharp turns and high speeds.
Another parameter that is worth paying attention to when choosing alpine skis is their structure:
- carving;
- classic.
Carving skis differ from classic skis in that they look like they are fitted, i.e. the ends are wider than the central part. They are more stable than classic ones, so they are recommended for beginners.
- Externally, both skis should be absolutely identical and not differ in width, length and weight.
- Look at the skis from the side; the curve of the sliding surface should be smooth.
- The longitudinal groove on the sliding surface should be straight, without any wobble.
- There should be no scratches, cracks or other defects on the sliding surface.
- Place the skis with the sliding surface facing each other and squeeze them as tightly as possible with your hands. The rigidity should be the same. The socks should remain closed.
- Find the center of gravity of the skis, it must coincide, deviation of no more than 1.5 cm is allowed.
How to choose ski poles
After choosing your skis, you may be faced with the question of choosing ski poles. This is an important part of ski equipment that you cannot do without.
Ski poles must be:
- durable;
- hard;
- lungs.
Poles, like skis, are selected depending on the height of the athlete. For lovers of skating, the poles should be 15-20 cm less than the owner’s height, and for classic skaters, 25-30 cm less than the owner’s height.
You can’t buy poles for a child “to grow into,” as he will get tangled in them and it will be uncomfortable to ride.
For an amateur, aluminum ski poles are quite suitable.
It is better to choose handles from a non-slip material such as cork or leather with anatomical grooves for the fingers.
It is better to choose supports for poles with a reverse cone (the safest) rather than with feet (the most inconvenient when riding).
For children under 7 years old, choose the length of sticks up to the armpits, with a blunt tip.
How to choose hunting skis
Hunting skis are designed for movement on loose snow by hunters or fishermen with additional load. Therefore, unlike running ones, they should not be long and narrow, but short and wide.
The average length of hunting skis, regardless of the height of the skier, should be about 175 cm.
The best hunting skis are made from maple or birch; they are more wear-resistant than spruce.
Preparing skis before use
After you have bought skis in a store, you need to prepare them before using them for the first time.
Plastic
- Wipe the treated surface with a rag soaked in turpentine.
- Apply melted paraffin using movements from toe to heel, only on the area under the shoe.
- Warm up with an iron preheated to 200 degrees. And let dry for several hours.
- Excess cooled paraffin must be carefully removed.
- Upon completion of all processes, wipe the sliding surface with a synthetic cloth.
The above procedure must be carried out at least once a year.
Wooden
- Sand the sliding surface with fine sandpaper.
- Apply special resin from a sports store to the sliding surface and heat it with a blowtorch or a special burner.
- Wait until the resin is absorbed and repeat the previous step 3-4 more times. The skis should darken, but do not overheat or the wood will begin to char.
Greetings, readers of the blog about healthy lifestyle! Winter this season is changeable, some are pleased with the abundance of snow, while others are not so happy. If your area is always full of snow, you might want to consider a physical activity like skiing.
Buying a good set is not as easy as it seems. In this article I will tell you how to choose skis so that they will delight you throughout the entire season. We will talk about running and mountain models, as well as hunting and children's models. It would seem that it would be easier - come to the store and the consultant will select the right option. But, as practice shows, you don’t always know how to answer sellers’ questions. Therefore, before going to the store or when buying online, you need to know the basic parameters by which skis are selected for walking.
Most often, lovers of a healthy lifestyle opt for cross-country and walking skis. They are inexpensive and suitable even for those who are taking their first steps in winter sports. Let's first talk about how to choose the right skis for an adult, and then look at how to choose them for a child.
By the way, do regular blog readers remember about our health marathon? Let me remind you a little about him. Thanks to him, last spring my children and I spent the entire month covering skiing distances around the lake every day, which is almost five kilometers, cutting several laps a day.
Now you can get out of holiday celebration mode and take care of your health again. Try to master skiing or remember your physical education lessons at school! I promise you will love it!
For a beginner, professional options are of no use. Why overpay if you are going to ride mainly on weekends?
Cross-country skiing for beginners is usually selected according to the following parameters:
- Material.
- Rigidity.
- Riding style.
- Weight and height of a person.
Entirely wooden products are becoming increasingly rare today. More often, plastic models with a wooden core are on sale. All-plastic products usually cost more. For a novice lover of an active lifestyle, the standard options are suitable - plastic + wood. They are light, durable, and glide well.
Manufacturers also today offer products with notches under the block. This addition is more often found on children's sets. Why are notches needed? First of all, such models are designed for a classic move so that the foot does not slip back. Such equipment does not need to be lubricated. What are the disadvantages? The notches are not suitable for skating, the riding speed will be lower, and you will get more tired.
But if you are not chasing records and are not going to master skating, solutions with notches are quite suitable for you.
What is your riding style?
The second important point that you should decide on before purchasing is your riding style. On sale today you can find the following options:
- For a classic move.
- For skating style.
- Combined.
If you only run “classics”, then choose the appropriate sets. If you sometimes skate or plan to master it, take a closer look at the universal options. Of course, it is difficult to achieve sports records on combi models, but they are quite suitable for walking.
If you only skate and don’t like traditional skiing at all, then choose skate skis. If finances allow, you can buy two sets. Then the pleasure from riding will be greater. For amateurs and beginners, I advise you to watch training lessons on skating:
How are the skate and classic models visually and technically different?
- Skate skis are shorter and stiffer.
- Skate toes are shorter and rounder.
- Skate models are more durable.
The edging for classic models is also different for skating. Combined options combine the characteristics of both modifications. A beginner can take a closer look at such products.
Once you have decided on your riding style, select a kit based on weight and height. It’s easiest for people of average weight. But athletes with a larger physique will have to choose more carefully. For “heroes”, products must be of high quality, inexpensive and durable.
For a classic move, the length of skis is usually calculated as follows: add 20-25 cm to your own height. For a “skate”, products that are equal to or slightly taller are suitable. The easiest way to navigate is using tables. For example, there is such a table for height:
Using these tables it’s easy to choose skis. But as practice shows, sometimes these recommended parameters can be violated. Focus on yourself. If you have the opportunity to try out different sets at a rental or borrow them from friends, take advantage of this. Remember the length that provides the most comfortable ride and choose such sets. For example, short skis are sometimes easier to control, especially on the slopes.
Hardness and softness
An equally important parameter when buying skis is their stiffness. Here you need to focus on the athlete’s weight. Selecting the right model based on a person’s weight is as follows:
- Stand on your skis with both feet in the pad area. If there is a distance between the floor and the block, then this model is not rigid enough.
- Stand with both feet on one ski at some distance. If there is no clearance between the sliding surface and the floor, this will not work either. Choose a product with less rigidity.
Why pay attention to this parameter? The fact is that skis that are too soft will make it difficult to move on the track, and skis that are too hard will slip. And the return will obviously not please you. In short, being a beginner and choosing products with inappropriate rigidity, you are unlikely to love skiing.
Sports should be fun, so don't ignore this technical characteristic. For a classic ride, it is better to choose models with medium and low rigidity. And for the “ridge”, in any case, more rigid products are needed. If, when skiing “classic”, at the moment of repulsion the ski does not bend completely, then the equipment is not selected correctly.
We select sticks
It turns out that you also need to select poles according to your height. For the “classics”, sticks up to armpit length are suitable. But for the “ridge” it is better to choose longer models. For a free style, choose poles 15-20 cm shorter than your height. The handle and loop should also be comfortable. It is important to free your hand at any time. The risk of injury is especially high on descents in the forest, when a stick can get stuck in tree roots. Therefore, the stick should be easily removed from the hand.
The weight of the poles also affects the riding comfort. Modern sticks are light and durable, choose them.
Also, when purchasing, pay attention to boots and bindings. Shoes for skating and free skating are usually high. Modern boots are warm and comfortable. For a beginner, you can choose boots on a budget. It’s better to try them on in a woolen or other warm sock, so that even in light frost you don’t have to deny yourself walks.
Soviet-style mounts, 75 mm, can still be bought in hardware stores. They were replaced by more convenient options: NNN, SNS, NIS. For the classic style, you can still get by with more affordable 75 mm fasteners, but for “combi” and skate models it is better to opt for modern solutions. You will get more pleasure from riding. The mount will not touch the snow, which will have a positive effect on speed.
When choosing a ski set for a child, you also need to approach it responsibly, despite the fact that he will quickly outgrow it. When buying a kit for your child, pay attention to the following parameters:
- For a preschooler, skis should be short.
- After 7 years, follow the formula: height + 10-15 cm.
- The height of the poles should be slightly above the chest.
- For the smallest skiers, soft bindings based on belts and elastic bands and semi-rigid ones are suitable.
- For schoolchildren, you can already buy rigid bindings with special boots.
Today in stores you can find ready-made equipment for little skiers. Fastenings can be for both regular shoes and special ones for boots.
How to choose a set of alpine skis
Alpine skis are even easier to choose than cross-country skis. Select kits for beginners based on your weight and height. Another important parameter: riding style. It is better for a beginner to opt for universal models of medium width. Universal models are marked all-mountain.
A beginner climber of the mountain slopes can choose inexpensive models, especially if during the season you will not be able to go to the ski resort often.
Forest skis
Hunting and forest skis are suitable for those who like to walk on virgin soil, go on winter hikes, and go hunting and fishing.
These wide skis come in wood and plastic, with notches. The latter are not so sensitive to moisture, although they are more slippery than wooden products. Plastic skis are lighter than wood skis, but are more suitable for warm weather. In cold weather they roll back.
On wide skis you can go on an exciting hike through the taiga. Read about an amazing place -. You can only ride there on wide models.
You don’t have to pay much attention to the height of forest skis, but shorter models are better in maneuverability. When choosing hiking kits, you should pay more attention to the fastenings. Semi-rigid cable fastenings are better than with belts.
And finally, watch this educational video on how to choose skis:
I hope these simple tips helped you choose skis for your winter walks. Get your whole family on skis and teach your children a healthy lifestyle! We usually have a lot of snow in Siberia; you can ski for several months in a row, which is what we take advantage of. I will be glad to see your feedback and questions!
In winter there are great opportunities for active recreation and sports. One of the most popular entertainments at this time is skiing on snowy tracks and slopes. But before you go out on the track, you need to acquire comfortable and functional equipment, as well as equipment - a warm jacket, thermal underwear, boots.
For professional athletes this is very easy to do, since they know all their parameters and the equipment they need. Newbies usually get lost in the store and don’t know what criteria to use to determine a purchase. In this article we will tell you how to choose the right size of cross-country skis based on height and other important features - model, riding style, stiffness, etc.
Pros and cons of renting
In order to make a purchase for yourself or your children, you first need to decide on the question “how often are you going to ride?” If you are going to do this only a couple of times during the winter, then it is more rational to rent equipment. But it is important to remember the disadvantages of this option:- Depending on the vacation spot, the pick-up point has different quantities and quality of equipment. It is especially difficult to get the right size on weekends and holidays. If your plans include warming up in a park near your house or other specialized places, then you will not have the opportunity to take your skis outside the fenced area.
- Each time you will have to re-adapt to the features of the model - its rigidity, bending, length, material, fastening.
- Minor breakdowns, which are not taken into account at the rental office, can spoil the pleasure received from winter sports. Sloppy care, poor rubbing, loose foot clamp, small splinters - these shortcomings can greatly affect the riding style and speed.
If “renting” is not your option, then you should pay attention to the following parameters: - The terrain of the area where you are going to ride. For very hilly terrain, we recommend that you choose sports or mountain models. And if the area is fairly flat, then buy classic or shortened ones; they do not have strong plasticity, but they are very strong and are difficult to damage in any way.
- First of all, rely on your weight and height, physical fitness, since the width and length of the product will depend on this. If the purchase is intended for your child, then make sure that he can easily lift them and move his foot while standing on the surface.
- Do you have skating skills? A lot depends on this. Beginners will also need to purchase other pieces of equipment - special poles, protection for knees and elbows.
- Pay attention to the stiffness of the skis, because the softer they are, the easier they are to use. But you will not be able to develop very high speeds on them, since they will sag during the push. When selecting density, be guided by your weight. If you are a heavy-set man, then you need massive equipment.
- If the models are made of wood, then you should know: in the spring season or at above-zero temperatures, they practically cannot slide, but stick to the surface. And plastic ones work great in any weather, since many products are equipped with notches.
- The handle must have straps to secure it in the wrists. This is due to the riding technique - the hand should relax during the go-ahead stroke. If there is no strap, then there is a high risk of losing an element or driving incorrectly.
- There is a tip at the end. It is sharp because its purpose is to penetrate the snow even with little effort. But if your purchase is for a small child, then you can find a model without such a needle so that he does not accidentally get hurt.
How to choose the right cross-country skis based on height and weight - nuances
- The type of model depends only on your preferences. If you want to walk very calmly and enjoy the beauty of nature, then you should buy classic ones. And if you want to cover a track with sharp turns very quickly, then be sure to take the sports type option.
- The length must be chosen according to your height. The most common way is to add 15-20 cm to your own centimeters. But remember that this is not optimal for everyone. For example, women's, men's and children's models will differ, even if their owners are the same height. For fragile girls there are special lightweight and shortened offers.
- It’s much easier with sticks - you can purchase them provided that they are 20-25 cm higher than your shoulders.
Table: how to choose cross-country skis by weight and height
There are average values. They are developed by professionals based on data obtained empirically. You can rely on them, but do not forget that there are always personal preferences and feelings. There are great athletes who fall outside of these limits, but this does not affect their skill and speed.But beginners can safely start trying on according to the recommendations: 
For the weaker sex there is a small adjustment of 5 cm:
It is made because women's legs are slightly shorter than men's. These are the natural proportions of the human body. Accordingly, girls have smaller steps.
You can also choose your entire inventory, using only height and nothing else. How to choose skis by height table: 
Or use the following rule according to inventory type: 
Features of the classic move
Our grandparents rode this way, but to this day this method has not lost its relevance. With this method, sliding occurs along two tracks, which must be parallel to each other. With this type of riding you can practice stability, which is great for beginners.Correct stiffness
The product has a bend in the middle. If you place it on a flat surface, the part will not touch the floor. The harder it is to press the wood to the surface, the harder the material.
Algorithm for determining the optimal value:
- Stand with your feet on all the equipment, place a strip of paper under it. It should move freely there and not get stuck.
- Now transfer all your weight to one part - the leaf should be pressed tightly, you will not be able to pull it out without damaging it.
Presence of notches
Skis may have special notches on the sliding side.Their use is intended for beginners as they will not roll back. For those who are just getting used to this business, this feature will be a wonderful plus. The only downside is that they will stick to wet snow.
Selection of skis for skating
This method has this name because when riding, athletes use the technique of speed skaters. To do this, they push off with their active leg and transfer their weight to the other, periodically changing them. In this manner, it is better to use classic equipment, as it is more rigid. And for simple walks, choose soft and elastic models. They are easier to maintain balance on.Equipment from the Stayer brand
The Stayer online store offers a wide range of jackets and overalls made from modern synthetic materials. Their advantages:
- Resistant to frost and temperature changes.
- Moisture-repellent function.
- The filler does not roll off when washing.
- Durability - the fabric does not tear from slight mechanical impact.
The company offers products with a bright, memorable, but timeless design. It is suitable for both active recreation and walks in the city in winter.
Finally
We looked at many options for skis and poles that are necessary for people of different levels and experience. We have presented tables for you, from which you can independently determine which model you need to buy.If you come to a sports store for the first time, then listen to the advice of a consultant. With it you can select and try on exactly the equipment you need. You also need to pay attention to the manufacturer - cheap ones will most likely glide poorly in the snow, so you should not save on such a purchase, then it will remain intact for the next generation. It is better to give preference to those manufacturers who have proven themselves well. And then you will be guaranteed an excellent and exciting ride, you will definitely remember it for a long time. We wish you a wonderful winter holiday, good rest and skiing!
aSkiing is a great way to spend time in active recreation in the winter, which does not require long preparation and is accessible to everyone, regardless of age and level of training. The benefits of such an event are enormous, but in this case it is important to equip yourself accordingly.
Experts divide them into cross-country and mountain - they have their own specific structure and differences. If we consider the main differences, then It is worth highlighting the following points:
1. Alpine skiing stronger and more durable, respectively, and their cost will be much higher than that of treadmills. They consider it to be of higher quality, more professional, and this is what we should build on.
2. If speak about cross-country skiing- they are longer. Moreover, their canvas will be much narrower than that of mountain models. Read our special article about three types of cross-country skis.
3. The types also vary bindings and shoes- whether it will be automatic or mechanical fastening, regular shoes or special boots.
4. Cross-country shoes are designed to be used for “walking” on a flat track, well-compacted snow crust. Mountain skis are more likely sports models, where skiing takes place on special ski slopes, where there is a slope and solid, not compacted snow.
Selection of skis by height and weight
How to choose the right length of cross-country skis according to your height:
1. If this skating style- add 15 cm to the skier’s height and thus calculate their optimal length.
2. Classic provide for the use of the following calculation - the height of the skier plus 20 cm.
3. If this combined, then the calculations are carried out according to the principle - 15 cm is added to the athlete’s height.
When choosing taking into account the weight of the skier himself - in this case, calculations are carried out taking into account the following points:
- If this is a skating type of skiing, the gap distance between the surface of the snow crust and the sliding surface should be 1 mm, while the skier himself stands on both legs. Additional check - the sheet of paper under the heels must move freely 30–40 cm to the sides and, accordingly, the weight is selected proportionally.
- For classic ones, the distance between the floor and the sliding surface is 0.5 mm, the sheet of paper moves freely to the sides by 10–15 cm.
- With regard to the calculation of proportions and their relationships for combined models, they are carried out according to the rules described in the second paragraph.
How to choose cross-country skis for a child
Equipment for a child deserves special attention, and in this case you should focus on the age of the young skier.
1. Up to 3 years old. At this age, it is worth giving preference to short models with a wide canvas - the baby does not yet need to learn to develop speed or hone his technique. The optimal skis would be up to 40 cm, with a blade width of up to 8 cm, made of plastic, with a rounded end.
When your child can confidently stand on the ski slope, you can give preference to ski products that are equal to the child’s height. At the same time, experienced skiers note that it is best to give preference to those made of plastic rather than wooden ones - they are suitable for skiing on dry and wet snow.
When it comes to shoes for skating, there is no point in purchasing special equipment for your baby’s feet, but it is best to choose special metal fastenings with rubber straps for everyday shoes. You don’t have to buy sticks for your baby - the task for him at the very beginning is to learn how to maintain balance and learn to slide.
2. Between the ages of 4 and 10 years It makes sense to purchase a more sporty, professional set - narrower skis, up to 5 cm wide, will do. The length is selected based on the child’s height plus 15 cm.
3. Between the ages of 11 and 15 years- ski equipment is selected for the child, taking into account their height and weight category. In this case, it is important to consider that the choice can be made among the following ski models:
- classic- they are ridden on a parallel track, they are distinguished by their long length and pointed nose, and there are special notches on the sliding surface. Suitable for beginner skiers.
- skating- if your baby loves speed, then it is optimal for him to choose them. They are shorter than the classic ones and have a sharp edge for better glide.
- combined- suitable for classic and skating.
Table on how to choose cross-country skis based on your child’s height and weight:
High-quality skis from leading manufacturers will not differ in weight, length, width - the main thing is to check if there are any ties or cracks on them. In all other respects, it is entirely your choice.
Cross-country ski equipment
Where does every skier's equipment begin? With . These can be ordinary socks, warm ones, made of wool, or special, synthetic ones, produced for ski boots - all of them should not allow cold and moisture to pass through, and retain heat well. The important thing to remember is that they should not bunch up and resist excessive abrasion in the heel area.
After choosing a sock - choose a shoe. They are chosen when you choose a sock in which you will ride - they measure the chosen shoes specifically for it. The main thing to remember is not to pick up shoes on the Internet, but only in a store, after trying them on in person.
Experienced skiers know that the manufacturer of shoes is not as important as the perfect fit of the boot on the foot. Ideal - it does not pinch or dangle on the leg, and when bending the toes, folds do not form on their inner surface. The rigidity is checked by bending it in the sole - choose the model where the angle at the bend will be straight.
The equipment must include and - when choosing them, the height of the skier is taken into account. In this case, the principle applies - the greater their length, the more physical training the skating process itself requires. It is optimal if their length reaches your earlobe level, the minimum - to shoulder level.
Fastening- an important piece of equipment, it can be either automatic or mechanical. At the same time, experienced skiers note that the first ones are convenient because you just need to insert your foot into the grooves, and the boot is already fixed. But the latter are better - they hold the structure itself more securely and practically do not come off spontaneously.
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