When housing is put into operation after major repairs or construction, it is provided with a certain number of sockets. Their number is determined by the norms and rules of special documents.
But sometimes it is necessary to add additional connection points for electrical appliances. If they are not very powerful, you can run a wire from the existing outlet to the new outlet.
Even a novice electrician can cope with this task. How to wire a socket from a socket will be given advice from experienced craftsmen. Additional network connection points will add comfort to everyday life.
Types of sockets
When studying the technology of how to wire a socket from an outlet, it is necessary to consider all of their existing types. In our country there are three main types.
The first of them is labeled C1A. This is the outline. It operates at 10 A (DC) or 16 A (AC). Low-power consumers (lamps, small household appliances, etc.) can be connected to it.
The next variety is labeled C2A. This is a Euro format socket. It provides grounding (on the sides).
Heaters, stoves, and powerful household appliances can be connected to such a network point.
The C3A socket also provides for connecting a PE circuit, but it differs from the previous version in configuration. There is a steel rod in the center of the socket, and a recess for it in the plug. This device is also suitable for high-power appliances.
Wire selection
Electrical wiring in the apartment is arranged very carefully. If standards are not followed, the contacts may overheat. In this case, breakdowns of electrical appliances occur. There may even be a fire.
To prevent this from happening, you need to pay special attention to the wire set. If the socket does not have a ground, it will consist of 2 wires (phase and neutral). This is the simplest connection option.
But to increase the safety of operation, the wires are equipped. This will avoid electric shock. The wire in this case consists of 3 cores.
In addition to this criterion, it is necessary to pay attention to the cross-sectional diameter of the cable. The more load is applied to the wire, the thicker the conductor will be required. There are copper and aluminum conductors. Fire safety requirements indicate the advisability of using the first type of material for internal wiring in residential premises. Copper can withstand greater loads than aluminum and does not overheat.
Serial and parallel connection
This allows you to add an additional connection point to the network in the most secure way. For example, an electrical outlet with grounding must be installed with an unbroken PE wire. It is allowed to be cut only in some cases when the property has already been put into operation by the owners.
In addition to parallel connection, it is sometimes possible to wire sockets from another socket. In this case, it is necessary to carefully ensure that all electrical safety requirements are met. This method is used when it is inappropriate.
Daisy chain rules
Connecting sockets in series should only be done in the most extreme cases. But the classic situation of the presented type is not uncommon. The question of how to wire a socket to a balcony from a socket for arranging lighting is solved by a serial connection.
If powerful devices (heaters, household appliances, etc.) will not be connected to the network on the loggia, it is easier to run the cable from the nearest outlet. All work will require a minimum of effort, time and materials.
Connecting a socket in series from a socket will be quite safe if powerful equipment is not connected to both of these points in the network. As a rule, such elements of the electrical circuit are designed for 10A or 16A. This factor must be taken into account when including various devices. In fact, this is one power supply unit that is designed for the specified power.
Preparing to connect
When studying the process of how to connect another outlet from an outlet, you need to start with the preparatory stage. First, the original connection point is de-energized. Next it needs to be disassembled. Tools for this work must have some protection, at least rubberized handles.
The front panel of the socket is removed. Most often, the terminal block must be removed from the mounting box. To do this, loosen the screws in the appropriate places. remains in its original place in the wall.
If the socket plate is structurally combined with the mechanism, only the housing is removed from it. The corresponding wires and a new socket are also prepared in advance.
Connecting the cable
When considering how to connect sockets, you should pay attention to connecting the wires. When purchasing a cable, you can see that its cores are sealed into a single shell. It is necessary to get rid of it.
Use a knife to cut the plastic and remove it from the conductor. The vein cannot be cut, so it is done carefully. The wire is freed from insulation by approximately 1 cm. It is these bare areas that will be connected to the terminals. In the socket box these clean conductors do not touch under any circumstances.
The bare ends are rolled into rings. They are put on the corresponding terminals. It is necessary to maintain the separation of zero, ground and phase. Next you need to tighten the terminals. They do it tightly, but not very tightly.
The connection is checked for strength. The wires need to be pulled a little. This socket can be assembled. Next you need to start creating a new power point.
Arrangement of a new outlet
The wire is brought to the place where the additional power point will be mounted. Electrical wiring in an apartment can be done in a hidden or surface way. For a new outlet, the second option is quite suitable.
You must first install a socket box in the appropriate location. In this case, it is better to choose overhead equipment. Then you won't have to drill a hole in the wall. If the base is wooden, the socket box is mounted immediately using self-tapping screws.
For a concrete wall, you will first have to mark the fastening points and then drill holes for them. Then the socket box is installed in its place. The wire is also stripped of its insulation and connected to the appropriate terminals. The front panel of the socket is installed.
Testing and operation
Having studied how to wire a socket from an outlet, it is necessary to say a few words about its operation. After all the work described above has been done, you need to turn on the electrical network. Next, the old and new sockets are checked for functionality.
If there is no burning smell or sparks, it means everything was done correctly. The energy consumer connected through them should operate in its normal mode.
The sockets of this group should be perceived as a single recharge point with a total load not exceeding 10-16A (depending on the characteristics of the device). With their help, for example, you can charge your phone, camera, or illuminate a room with a small lamp.
In no case does this include heaters, irons, boilers or other similar equipment. By meeting these requirements, you can expect a long and productive life of the system.
Knowing how to wire a receptacle from an outlet will help a novice electrician get the job done quickly and correctly. By observing safety regulations and requirements for the arrangement of the electrical network, it will be possible to create a reliable system. It will function for a long time. Also, by following the recommendations of professional electricians, it will be possible to create a reliable and safe power supply system.
Replacing or installing an outlet in most cases does not require calling a technician to your home. It is enough to familiarize yourself with the theory and safety rules to get started and complete it quite successfully.
Often in the kitchen or in any other room where several household appliances are used simultaneously, there is a catastrophic lack of a free outlet.
The problem can be solved by installing a double socket.
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine, i.e. wire affiliation. To do this you will need a tester screwdriver and rubber gloves.
The cover of the old socket is removed and measurements are taken using a tester. In phase, the indicator will light up, and the neutral wire will be indicated by the absence of a light signal. Of course, there are cable colors, but it's better to be safe.
Then the line must be de-energized through the meter - this is a basic safety rule. The levers are moved to the off position! This is the bottom position of the switches.
The voltage at the installation site of the double socket is checked again.
If there is still current in the phase (that is, the line is not de-energized), it is necessary to turn off all the circuit breakers, and not just those that, as you think, control the wires going to the outlet.
Before installing a double socket, you will need the following tools and materials:
- insulating tape;
- sharp knife for stripping wires;
- Phillips and flat head screwdriver;
- pliers.
Double sockets are single terminal devices equipped with distribution strips.
Just a note. Such an outlet is not very convenient if you plan to use two powerful devices - the voltage is the same, but the current strength in each of the outlets will depend on the load of the adjacent one. Therefore, it is preferable to connect two outlets in parallel.
The cable used is the same as the main wiring in the room. The materials must also be the same. If the wiring is made with aluminum wire, it is also used when connecting sockets.
Use of the device requires caution. The total load on this type of outlet should not exceed 10-16 A.
Installation steps - do everything in order
The double socket connection diagram consists of the following steps:
This completes the installation work. If the quality of the installation is in doubt, you should contact a professional electrician. He will inspect your work and make sure that operation will not lead to electric shock.
Video on how to install a double socket
When repairing or installing your electrical network, you may be faced with the question of how to connect the wires in the outlet. This question is not difficult and does not require any special knowledge.
At the same time, there are nuances that can confuse a non-professional. Therefore, in this article we will look at all the intricacies of connecting sockets, and also analyze all the possible options that you may encounter during repairs.
In this article we will look at issues related directly to connecting sockets; questions related to connecting other electrical receivers from sockets, and we will also touch upon situations related to checking the functionality of sockets.
Connecting a regular outlet
First of all, let's look at the question of how to connect the wires on a socket?
To do this, we need to connect the phase, neutral and protective wires to it. The connection is usually made from a distribution box, which is often located in the ceiling above the light switch at the entrance to the room. But let us immediately note that this is not the norm, but an unspoken rule.
So:
- Before connecting the outlet, we should install it and, if a hidden wiring method is used, lay grooves from the distribution box to it. We will not dwell on this; you can find a video of this aspect of the work on the pages of our website.
- When the installation of the outlet is completed and all preparatory measures have been completed, you can proceed directly to the connection. To do this we need to open the junction box. Before this, you should remove the voltage from all the wires located in it, or it is better to immediately turn off the input circuit breaker for your house or apartment.
- Having opened the distribution box, we should determine the phase, neutral and protective wires from the cable feeding the line. If your electrical network is installed in accordance with clause 1.1.29 of the PUE, then the yellow-green wire is protective, the blue wire is neutral, and the third wire is phase.
- If your wiring around the house is done “somehow”, then we begin to search for the phase, neutral and protective wires. To do this, access to the exposed parts of the supply wire should be provided. Then spread them apart, ensuring ease of work.
- Now we can apply voltage to the wires. Using a two-pole voltage indicator, identify the phase, neutral and protective wires.
Pay attention! We recommend using a two-pole voltage indicator due to its greater reliability and functionality. At the same time, its price will not ruin even the most modest budget. And a set of functions, such as voltage indication, detection of the presence of a circuit and the ability to use it as a regular capacitive indicator, allow you to solve almost any problem.
- To determine the neutral and protective wires, it is necessary to disconnect the neutral wire in your distribution panel when the voltage is removed. Then apply voltage and determine the neutral wire in the junction box by the absence of a circuit between the wire and ground.
Pay attention! It is very important not to confuse the neutral and protective wires, otherwise you may have serious problems with energy supervision. And if you have a modern electronic meter, this will be detected during the first round.
- If your electrical network is made in accordance with the PUE standards, then you can omit paragraphs 4 – 6 of our instructions. Instead, you should connect the phase, neutral and protective wires to the appropriate terminals and route them to the outlet. In this case, according to clause 2.1.22 of the PUE, a supply of wire should be provided at the connection point both in the distribution box and in the socket box. This is especially true when connecting sockets with aluminum wires.
- Now we connect the wires to the outlet. The main thing is not to make a mistake with connecting the protective wire. It should be connected to the grounding contacts of the socket. Connect the phase and neutral wires to the power contacts of the socket. Moreover, which wire goes where is completely irrelevant.
- After closing the junction box covers and final installation of the socket, we can apply voltage and test our socket. If you did everything as our instructions advise, then everything will work without any comments.
Connecting several sockets in series
In some cases, in order to save money, it may be necessary to connect several outlets in series at once. This is also not difficult, and doing it yourself is quite simple.
So:
- First, using the method described above, we connect the first outlet. Then, to the terminals of the first socket we connect, respectively, the phase, neutral and protective wires going to the adjacent socket.
- At the second outlet we connect the incoming wires accordingly. Moreover, here, again, it is important to correctly connect only the protective wire. The order in which the others are connected is not so important. Although in fairness it is worth noting that the rules of the PUE should be adhered to. After all, this eliminates the occurrence of problems during repairs.
- Separately, I would like to dwell on the question: how to connect a socket with 4 wires during repairs? After all, the situation when you open a non-working outlet, and there are 4 wires, drives many into a stupor. There is nothing scary here, and now we will look at this issue.
- If the outlet does not work, then you first need to determine the reasons. If no problems are visible visually, then we use our two-pole voltage indicator.
- First, we check the presence of phase and “zero” on any of the four wires. If one pair has both phase and zero, then after removing the voltage we connect them to our outlet. The remaining two wires, if they power the outlet, are also connected to the outlet terminals in a random order.
Pay attention! We stipulated that we only connect randomly if they power the outlet. If lighting is powered from them, then you need to determine the wire going to the switch and connect it to the phase terminal of the socket. But more on that below. To determine what is being powered by this outlet, check the functionality of nearby outlets and lighting. Moreover, this must be done not only in this room, but also in the room adjacent to the wall on which the outlet is installed.
Connection from a lighting socket
Although this scheme is used quite rarely, it can also be found. After all, it is not so complicated, but at the same time it can provide significant savings in money and time. Therefore, if you open the outlet and see three or four wires, do not be alarmed.
So:
- If, when repairing an outlet, you find three wires when you open it, then one most likely goes to the nearest switch. This can be easily checked by turning it off.
- For the lighting network to work after repair, we need to connect it again. According to clause 6.6.28, this must be done specifically on the phase wire. But be careful here. If your house was built a long time ago, and the wiring was not altered or altered by non-professionals, then it is better to make sure.
- To do this, disconnect our wire from the socket terminals and turn on the switch to which it is connected. If “zero” came to our wire, then we did everything correctly. If the wire shows phase, then the wire should be connected to the neutral terminal of the socket. This should be noted and be sure to be changed during the next repair.
- But there are options when, when you open the socket, you find four wires powering the lighting network. There's nothing to worry about here either.
- In this case, both the neutral and phase wires for the lighting network are taken from the outlet. After troubleshooting, all we need to do is restore everything. Just before connecting a socket with 4 wires, you should make sure that the wire going to the switch is connected to the phase terminal of the socket, and the neutral wire, respectively, to the neutral terminal.
Conclusion
We have considered almost all possible options that you may encounter when installing and repairing sockets. But some “mega-specialists” forget the PUE standards given in clauses 1.1.27 and 1.1.28, which say that all electrical installations must have the most simple and clear diagram possible.
Because of this, incidents are possible. Therefore, when installing your electrical network, “you shouldn’t reinvent the wheel,” but do everything according to the rules. This will save not only a lot of nerves and strength for those who will be doing the repairs, but also possibly their lives.
Installation of the entire electrical wiring of a house is an extremely responsible matter, requiring certain knowledge and experience in performing such work. Therefore, such large-scale events are most often entrusted to electrical specialists. But some problems that arise, for example, during cosmetic repairs or simply during the operation of electrical equipment, can be solved on your own. Such accessible operations include connecting stationary lighting fixtures, installing new or replacing faulty sockets and switches.
In this publication we will focus our attention on sockets - they are the ones we deal with most often. The saturation of everyday life with useful electrical appliances is constantly growing, and new equipment often requires new connection points. In addition, any socket does not last forever, it is designed for a certain number of plug connections. And sooner or later it exhausts its resource, begins to spark, become loose, and sometimes completely crumbles into dust. And simply when carrying out cosmetic repairs, owners often want to replace all sockets and switches with new ones that best suit the style of the chosen finish.
So, he is considering the question of how to connect the outlet on his own, without calling a technician.
For a person who will be installing an outlet for the first time, it would be logical to first understand how it works. Its structure is not particularly complex, but nevertheless.
Let's look at it in the diagram. True, it does not reflect the entire variety of designs of modern sockets, but the principle of the device is approximately the same.
The main role is played by the housing (item 1), which contains contact groups and terminals, as well as devices for fixing the socket in the socket box or directly on the wall surface. The body is made of dielectric material - most often it is plastic, but it can also be ceramic. Sockets with ceramic bodies are somewhat more expensive and are considered to be of higher quality. However, they require careful handling during installation - if the socket is accidentally dropped or, for example, the fastening screws are overtightened, the housing may break and cannot be repaired.
On the front side, the socket is closed with a plastic cover (pos. 2). The cover has a shaped groove with socket holes into which the pin contacts of the plug enter. The lid can be solid or collapsible - often it has an additional decorative frame (item 3). When installed correctly, this frame will be pressed tightly against the wall and will completely cover the location where the outlet is installed. The cover is attached to the body using a screw (item 4). There may be several screws - for example, on double or triple sockets. As a rule, the screws are equipped with a simple stopper on the inside, so that when unscrewed they do not fall out of their sockets.
The housing contains a contact group. Since we will only consider single-phase 220 V sockets, there are two such contacts - for connecting zero and phase (position 5). The most commonly used are petal (plate) contacts. Spring ones are considered more reliable for switching and durable, but they are now rarely found on sale.
To connect to the contacts of the wiring suitable for the socket, each of them is equipped with a terminal (item 6). There are many types of terminals, but they can be roughly divided into two categories.
— In one (predominant) fixation of the conductor is ensured by tightening the screw. By the way, the screw head in different models of sockets can be located differently - at the back, on the front, on the side or from top to bottom.
Many sockets today are equipped with additional contacts for connecting to the ground loop. Most often in our area there are models with two grounding curved petal contacts, located at the top and bottom, respectively (item 7). The metal plate of this PE contact also has its own terminal (pos. 8) for connecting the wire.
To secure the socket in the socket box, two types of clamps can be used simultaneously or separately.
— Firstly, these are special clamping feet that have pointed serrated edges (item 9). Each such tab is equipped with a screw (pos. 10), when tightened it moves to the side and rests rigidly against the body of the socket box.
— Secondly, most modern socket boxes also provide for fastening the socket with a screw (self-tapping screw). For these fasteners there are special eyes (item 11) with a characteristic arc-shaped shape - this makes it possible to slightly correct the position of the socket.
By the way, what was shown above is perhaps not the most typical example of a socket. The overwhelming number of modern models are also equipped with a metal support (item 12) - a special plate that significantly simplifies the installation process.
When installed, this support fits perfectly into the plane of the wall, that is, it is impossible to make a mistake with the depth of placement of the socket housing. The plate itself will then be completely hidden by a decorative cover.
The support is always provided with the above-mentioned eyes for screw fastening to the socket box. In addition, there may also be holes in the corners (pos. 13). They are very useful when the socket is installed on a rigid base without a socket at all. For example, on a wall covered with clapboard or other panels, provided that under the finishing there is a small space sufficient in depth for the socket body. In this case, a window of the required size is simply cut out, and the socket itself is attached to the finishing surface through a caliper with four self-tapping screws. It couldn't be simpler!
As mentioned above, sockets can be single or even triple, that is, designed to connect several electrical appliances at once. Another approach is when several single sockets connected in parallel are installed for these purposes.
A few words about the types of sockets.
- In the recent past, type “C” prevailed - only two contacts, zero and phase. It is still widely used today - it is quite suitable for electrical appliances of small and medium power that do not require mandatory grounding.
This type, by the way, is also not very homogeneous. Surely many have encountered that such sockets of the old “Soviet” type do not fit the plugs of many electrical appliances, since the pins have a larger diameter than the holes. However, now, it seems, the “Soviet” type is no longer available for sale, so the problem becomes insignificant.
- Type “F” has the same two sockets for the plug pins, but is also equipped with grounding contacts. It was this type that was shown in the diagram when the socket design was considered.
Such sockets dominate nowadays, as human life is increasingly saturated with a variety of equipment, the safe operation of which requires grounding. However, such an outlet allows you to connect other electrical appliances without any problems. With the exception, perhaps, of only old forks with a round body rim that does not have figured cutouts.
- It is permissible in our conditions to install “E” type sockets. The sockets for phase and neutral do not differ from the “F” type, but the grounding contact has the shape of a protruding pin.
Such sockets are not particularly popular among us. But if you pay attention to the design of the plugs of most modern electrical appliances, you will notice that it is suitable for both types, “F” and “E” - it has a special hole with a contact for the pin to enter. But another plug clearly won’t work, that is, the socket is not very versatile. In addition, turning the plug 180 degrees in the socket is completely eliminated, and this sometimes becomes useful when using electrical appliances.
Of course, there are many more types of sockets. Only three were highlighted here, since they are the ones that are used most often in Russian conditions.
Sockets also differ in the degree (class) of protection of the housing. This indicator is indicated by the IP index and a two-digit number. The first number indicates the class of protection against penetration of solids and dust, the second – about protection from the effects of water.
— For ordinary premises of a house or apartment, class IP22 or IP33 is quite sufficient. If the socket is planned to be installed in a children's room, then it is better to purchase a model with a class of at least IP43. A special feature of such products is the presence of a cover and special curtains that cover the sockets for the plug pins when the socket is not in use. This will make it difficult for a curious young “researcher” to access live contacts.
- But for bathrooms, showers, and kitchens, models with a class of at least IP44 are purchased - here the humidity is high, and there is a very high probability of water splashes hitting the socket.
— IP44 class is also suitable for installation in an unheated basement.
— An even higher class is needed if the socket needs to be installed on the street or, for example, on an open balcony. Here, both the impact of dust and direct exposure to atmospheric precipitation are taken into account. So, for safety reasons, it is recommended to use models with a protection class of at least IP55.
Now that the general concepts about the design and types of sockets have been obtained, you can refer to the schematic diagrams of their connection.
Schemes for connecting sockets to the electrical network
Socket connection diagrams are not particularly complex. But it is still necessary to consider them.
First, a diagram for connecting sockets to a single-phase network, which does not have a ground loop.
The diagram shows digital symbols:
1 – general safety coupled machine.
2 – automatic switch that disconnects the phase on the line to which the sockets will be connected.
3 – zero bus.
4 – distribution switching boxes. According to the rules, wiring in the house must be located exactly above the sockets, so that the vertical outlet section goes down. Each outlet (or block of several outlets) must have its own junction box.
5 – the cable of hidden or open wiring is conventionally shown.
Find out from our new article on our portal.
Please note - in accordance with the rules followed by professional electricians, it is customary to place the phase on the socket on the left, and zero on the right. Unfortunately, not everyone does exactly this. Although such installation greatly simplifies the operation of some devices (those that fundamentally require the mandatory position of phase and zero), and carrying out diagnostics and repair work if there are problems in the network.
Where is the best place to install sockets?
This publication is devoted specifically to connecting sockets, and not to planning their location and rules for laying wiring. These questions are so important that they are given a separate article on our portal. In it, by the way, a lot of attention is paid to the peculiarities of placing sockets in the kitchen, where there is usually a maximum “concentration” of large household appliances.
The second scheme is also single sockets, but of the “F” type, with a connection to the grounding circuit.
6 – bus for connecting grounding (PE) wires. They are shown in green in the diagram.
However, another option for wiring is also possible, which is often used, for example, in utility rooms, especially with an open type of wiring. In this case, the ground loop runs from below, along the floor along the perimeter of the walls. And a separate wire rises from it to the socket. And the eyeliner itself on top is the usual phase and zero. The switching on the socket terminals does not change in any way.
Now let’s slightly increase the area for connecting sockets and see how switching is performed if it is necessary to install a block of two or more pieces.
If the connection is to a network without a ground loop, then everything is relatively simple. In this case, the sockets are connected with a so-called loop. That is, the phase wire approaches the first, and is connected from it to the second by a jumper. Further, from the second jumper goes to the third. The neutral contacts of sockets are switched in the same way.
The method, it must be said, is not without its drawbacks. For example, if there is insufficient contact of one of the wires, say, on the second socket, the third a priori becomes inoperative. However, this is easily diagnosed, and for preventive purposes it is recommended to tighten the screw terminals annually.
If the design of the terminal in sockets provides such an opportunity, the optimal solution would be to make connections not with jumpers, but with a solid wire. The insulation is removed in a small area, the wire is bent into a loop and this loop is clamped into the terminal of the first socket. Then the section of insulation for the second outlet is removed - and so on. There is, of course, a lot more fuss; it is necessary to provide in advance the required length of the supply line wires, but the sockets are obtained according to the degree of their performance - they are independent of one another.
It would seem that sockets with a grounding contact can be connected using a cable in the same way. However, such a connection (using jumpers) is undesirable, since it is not reliable. If the absence of a phase or zero becomes immediately noticeable to users, and measures to restore the socket’s functionality are taken immediately, then the unreliability of the protective grounding may remain undetected for a very long time. And this can pose a very serious threat when operating electrical appliances.
By the way, the operating rules for electrical installations directly prohibit the serial connection of the ground wire.
"PUE-7
1.7.144. The connection of each open conductive part of the electrical installation to the neutral protective or protective grounding conductor must be made using a separate branch. The serial inclusion of exposed conductive parts into the protective conductor is not permitted.”
Therefore, as a last resort, you should proceed as shown above - with a common ground wire and creating several sections on it for terminal connections (although this will not be entirely correct).
And the best thing is to perform high-quality twisting (unsoldering) on the grounding wire suitable for the first socket box. And from there, lead a separate grounding wire to each socket of the unit for individual connection.
Will such a twist fit in the socket of the first socket? Numerous examples presented in photographs on the Internet convince us that this is possible.
You can also install a deeper socket box for the first socket - not 40, but 60 mm - it will be much easier to fit the wires there. By the way, if space allows, nothing prevents you from performing similar twisting (unsoldering) for the phase with zero - the reliability of the socket block will only benefit from this. Naturally, all connections are carefully insulated with electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubing. And the twists themselves are very convenient to make using special PPE caps - it turns out quickly, accurately, and very reliably. Wago terminals are also very convenient for such purposes, but for loaded lines, high-quality twisting will still be more reliable.
Sometimes they do this too - they put one more socket box, and it is used as a local mounting box. Then, after switching the entire block, it is covered with a plug, and then with decorative wall trim. In this case, certainly nothing will prevent you from making reliable, high-quality connections to all sockets of the block.
Socket installation process - step by step
In this article we will not focus on laying wires to the installation site of sockets, installing boxes and socket boxes. This is a topic for a separate and very detailed consideration, and it has already found coverage on the pages of the portal.
How to install wiring in a house or apartment yourself?
The task is not simple, requiring certain knowledge and very high care when carrying out work. In addition, during its implementation it will be necessary to perform a lot of general construction operations. The theoretical foundations and all stages of installation are described in great detail in a large instructional article on our portal.
When installing sockets, you should adhere to the established color markings of the wires. It is customary to connect zero with blue wires, grounding with green-yellow wires. There can be different options with the phase - brown, black, white, red and others, but in any case - always different from zero and grounding.
When installing sockets, and during other electrical installation operations, in any case, the first step is to make sure that the line is completely de-energized. Some measures are being taken to prevent unauthorized switching on - this must be constantly monitored until the work is completed.
Below we will discuss several options for installing sockets. All of them are certainly similar, but have some differences due to the characteristics of specific cases.
Single outlet installation
A very common case - it has been manufactured, and it’s time to install new sockets. A cable is connected to the socket box, which is still inside it in an insulated state.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | When wallpapering a wall, two diagonal cuts at once marked the location of the socket box. This is where the outlet will be installed. |
 | First of all, you need to completely open the socket itself. Fragments of wallpaper around the perimeter are carefully trimmed with a sharp knife... |
 | ...and are deleted. The action is carried out carefully so as not to accidentally damage the finish in the area that will remain uncovered by the outlet. |
 | The end of the power cable hidden inside is pulled out. |
 | After finishing work, a lot of debris, mortar residues, and dust can accumulate inside the socket box. All this needs to be cleaned out. |
 | After removing large debris, small debris can be quickly cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. |
 | That's it, the place is prepared - you can proceed to installation work. |
 | First of all, if necessary, shorten the cable suitable for the outlet. Usually it is assumed that it should protrude beyond the surface of the wall by 60÷80 mm. |
 | Next, you need to remove the outer layer of protective insulation (braid) from the cable. Here it is shown that the master is using an ordinary knife. It’s possible, of course, but still it’s not entirely correct, since it’s easy to damage the insulation of the wires. Below, in the following table, a more competent approach to this operation will be shown. |
 | The braid is removed, freeing the wires. Its remains are carefully cut off and removed so that they do not interfere with work. |
 | The freed wires are immediately separated somewhat to the sides, exactly in the order in which they will be connected in the socket: phase on the left, neutral on the right and grounding in the center. The ends of the wires (about 25 mm) can be slightly bent downwards. |
 | Using an insulation stripper, the ends are exposed - approximately 10 mm from the edge. |
 | The ends of the wires are stripped and ready for installation. |
 | The example shown here uses a socket equipped with self-clamping spring terminals. That is, the work is simplified to the limit. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the hole in the terminal and simply pushed into it until it stops. Switching the socket takes only a few seconds. |
 | After this, it is necessary to check the reliability of fixation of all three wires in the terminals using a pulling motion. If everything is fine, you can move on. |
 | The connected wires are slightly bent so that they are located along the back side of the socket body. |
 | In this form, the socket is ready for installation in the socket box. |
 | In this example, the mounting screws still remain in the socket box. Of course, they should be unscrewed. But usually this operation is carried out a little earlier, when cleaning the socket box from construction debris. |
 | The socket body is inserted into the socket box and approximately, by eye, is aligned horizontally. Then it is temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws. First on the one hand... |
 | ...and then the opposite one. The screws are not yet tightened. |
 | The next step is to align the top edge of the socket strictly horizontally. To do this, a level is applied to the upper edge of the caliper, and the necessary position adjustments are made. Arc-shaped cutouts under the screws make it possible to slightly rotate the socket in the desired direction. |
 | Then, without disturbing the set position, tighten the fastening screws. After this, the screws of the stopper claws are screwed in, which, moving apart, will rest against the walls of the socket box and finally fix the socket. |
 | You can proceed to the final assembly. For the model of rosette shown, the decorative frame consists of two parts - first it is assembled. |
 | Then the central cover with a socket for the plug is inserted into it. |
 | In this form they are connected to the body of the installed socket. The system of grooves and protrusions on these parts will ensure an ideal, unambiguous alignment - somehow installing the cover unevenly will simply not work. |
 | All that remains is to tighten the fixing screw in the center - it will finally press the cover to the socket body. True, you should not make “fanatical” efforts when screwing in so that the plastic of the lid does not crack. |
 | That's it, the socket is installed - the correct placement is checked. If this was the only electrical task, you can turn on the machine and check the functionality of the outlet. |
Installing a block of two sockets
The situation is similar - after finishing it is necessary to install a block of two single sockets. The master will connect them to each other using a loop. The negative aspects of this method have already been discussed above, but many people do just that.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | Even before the finishing work begins, two socket boxes are placed in the right place at a set distance from one another. The power cable is connected to the left |
 | Two single Legrand sockets will be installed and covered with one common frame. |
 | This is the remnant of a three-core cable coil that was used for hidden wiring. A piece of it will be needed to connect the sockets to each other. |
 | After cleaning the socket boxes from construction debris, you can immediately unscrew the fastening screws from them. After installing the socket boxes before finishing, they are usually left in place so that the holes are not clogged with mortar, but now they should be removed. |
 | The end of the supplied cable is pulled out of the socket box. When cutting off the excess, the master is guided by the “4-finger rule” - this is how much the cable should protrude beyond the surface of the wall for the convenience of further electrical installation work. |
 | The braid is removed from the cable. But here the master first deliberately demonstrates how to do it. When cutting the braid with a knife, there is a high probability of damaging the insulation of the wires located inside. |
 | This is the kind of trouble that can happen. In addition, damage to the insulation may be almost unnoticeable, but one day, already during the operation of the outlet, it will play its fatal role. |
 | To remove the outer insulation of the cable, a special knife with a heel must be used. |
 | When working with such a tool, the risk of damaging the insulation of the cable wires is completely eliminated. |
 | The torn cable braid is cut off and removed so that it does not take up space in the box and does not interfere with work. |
 | After this, the ends of the three wires are exposed by about 10 mm. For this, a special tool must also be used - an insulation stripper. Making cuts with a knife means provoking a break in the conductor. In addition, scratches on the conductor are very unhelpful for quality contact when connecting to the terminals. |
 | Stripped ends of the wires in the first socket box. Now it is necessary to insert wires into it for switching with the second outlet. |
 | To do this, take a piece of the same cable that was used for the liner. This is important, because if you are going to make a cable, then only with completely identical wires. The braid is removed to a length from the edge of approximately 200 mm. After this, the wires from the side of the second socket box are inserted into the first through the channel between them. |
 | This is what it will look like in reality after pulling the wires. |
 | The ends of the inserted wires are also stripped of insulation and you can proceed to connecting the first outlet. This model has three screw terminals, but each has two identical sockets for inserting wires. |
 | Wires with the same color markings are inserted into them in pairs. In the left pair - white (phase), in the central - green-yellow (grounding), in the right - blue (zero). After installing each pair, the terminal is immediately tightened tightly with a screwdriver. After tightening all three terminals, the wires at the back are slightly bent down along the socket body... |
 | ...and then the socket is carefully inserted into the socket box and approximately aligned. |
 | The socket is not yet secured with self-tapping screws - first you need to immediately install the second one. Here everything is even simpler. |
 | First, the required length of the wires is measured with “four fingers” and the insulation is stripped from their ends. |
 | Then the wires are inserted in the same order into the socket terminals and tightened with screws. |
 | After this, the wires are folded along the body in the same way, and the socket is installed in the socket box. |
 | Now you can provide preliminary fixation of the sockets with self-tapping screws - two pieces for each, left and right. The screws are not yet fully tightened. |
 | The next step is to align the sockets horizontally. The master has a special tool for these purposes - miniature levels. Firstly, they are well fixed with magnets to the socket supports and do not tie your hands, and secondly, they allow you to perform alignment with very high accuracy. It is clear that if there are no such levels, you will have to make do with the usual ones. |
 | After the necessary adjustments to the position of the sockets have been made, they are finally fixed. First, the self-tapping screws are screwed in until they stop, and then the screws that will release the sockets’ stop legs. |
 | After the sockets are aligned, and after fixing, the correctness of their position is once again checked, you can proceed to the final procedures - installing the outer cladding and covers. The overall frame is unpacked and tried on. |
 | Then the covers are inserted one by one and finally secured with screws. |
 | That's it, installation of the double socket block is complete. |
By the way, often when you need to have two sockets in a certain place, but there is no desire to bother with two sub-grids and assembling the block, they simply install one double one. In fact, its installation is practically no different from the usual installation - it is just larger in size. But there is one important nuance that should not be forgotten.
The fact is that in most models, in order to provide contacts on both plugs being connected, two plate bus bars are installed inside the socket - for phase and zero. But sometimes it happens that each of the buses has two terminals - seemingly for convenience during installation. And a fairly common mistake made by those performing such installation for the first time is that the phase and neutral wires are clamped into the terminals of one busbar.
The consequences of such inattention are completely obvious. When the power is turned on, there is an instant short circuit. And it will be very good if the matter is limited to just a burnt or melted socket. Things could be much worse.
So attentiveness and accuracy when carrying out electrical installation work must be mobilized to the fullest.
Features of installing sockets on a plasterboard wall
Another option that is often encountered during repairs is that the socket (one or a block of several) must be installed on a partition made of plasterboard or on a wall lined with it.
Naturally, this issue is thought through in advance, and a cable, enclosed in a special corrugated pipe for safety, is pulled to the installation site to be coated even before the installation of plasterboard sheets.
The process of installing sockets, in principle, does not differ much from the options discussed above. The nuance here is rather the installation of socket boxes.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | For this task, special socket boxes for plasterboard are used. There are several similar models, but they all have one common distinctive feature. |
 | On both sides of such a socket there are pressing feet, which move upward along the groove intended for this purpose when the screw (screw) is screwed in. Thus, the paws will press the socket box from the back of the plasterboard sheet. |
 | The design of the socket box body and the legs themselves can be different. In this example, the body has the shape of a truncated cone, that is, when moving upward, the legs will also diverge to the sides. In other versions, the shape of the guide groove is made such that when the screw rotates, the tab first rotates 90 degrees and then progressively moves upward. But this does not particularly affect the installation order. Before installation, the tabs must be in their lowest position. |
 | In the socket boxes, windows are cut and then squeezed out to allow wires to pass through. In the first - from the bottom for cable entry and from the side for the switching channel with the second socket. In the second - only on the side for switching. |
 | The socket boxes are prepared - you can move on to markings on the wall. The location of the sockets, that is, the area where the supply cable is hidden under the drywall, should be known to the owners. In this case, a block of two sockets will be installed, and they, naturally, should be placed on the same horizontal line. |
 | A vertical line is also drawn - this is the axis of the first rosette. At the intersection point, a round window for the socket box will be drilled. |
 | The standard distance between the centers of socket boxes, if they are planned to be assembled into a single block, is 71 mm. This segment breaks off along a horizontal line. Naturally, when marking the centers of the holes, the location of the elements of the frame structure of the wall is always taken into account, so as not to hit the racks or lintels. |
 | Both centers are marked - you can proceed to drilling. |
 | For this, a special crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used. You can, of course, cut with a knife or file, but there is a very high risk of accidentally making a mistake, going beyond the boundaries of the cut, and the socket may not have sufficient support for reliable fixation. When drilling, you don’t need to make any special efforts - drywall is easy to cut. Excessive pressure may damage the back cardboard covering of the gypsum board. In addition, do not forget that somewhere behind the plasterboard wall there is also a cable that can be damaged if, due to great force, the crown uncontrollably falls deep into the wall. |
 | The first window for the socket box is ready. Move on to drilling the second one. |
 | Both sockets for socket boxes are drilled out. |
 | Now you need to find the cable laid there behind the plasterboard lining... |
 | ...and carefully pull its end out. |
 | Then the cable is passed through the hole in the bottom of the first socket, and the socket itself is carefully inserted into the cut out socket... |
 | ...all the way, so that the edge along the outer circumference rests against the surface of the drywall. |
 | After this, the second socket box is inserted into its socket. |
 | The socket boxes are aligned along the vertical axis, and then they are fixed. To do this, rotate the screws (or self-tapping screws) clockwise to ensure the movement of the presser feet. On many models (in particular, on the one demonstrated), this movement is clearly visible visually. For some, it is invisible, and you have to rely on the force on the screwdriver. In any case, rotate the screw until you feel that the foot has rested on the drywall. They move to the opposite paw and bring it to the same position. After this, another half turn is made on both screws - and that’s enough. Under no circumstances should you overtighten - the foot may begin to crumble the drywall from the inside. |
 | Similar actions are repeated on the second socket box. We can assume that they have been successfully installed. |
 | Next, the cable braid is removed. In principle, sockets can also be installed. But it is also recommended to putty this unit - this will increase its strength. And, in general, it is better to finally install the sockets after the finishing is completed. |
 | This means that the ends of the wires need to be insulated... |
 | ...and then carefully roll it up and hide it in the socket. The installation of the sockets themselves, when the final conditions for this are created, is no different from the examples discussed above. |
* * * * * * *
So, the issues of self-installation of sockets were considered. Of course, the variety of possible installation options is not limited to the examples shown.
If, after reading the article, a reader inexperienced in electrical engineering still has unresolved questions, or the fear of self-installation has not passed, it is better not to undertake it. Call an electrician - it will be more reliable and safer.
But if you decide to do it yourself, then always make sure that the network is completely de-energized before starting work. And after completing the installation, carefully check the correctness of all connections, the quality of the insulation - and only then can you carry out a test by turning on the voltage.
At the end of the publication, there is an interesting video on the same topic:
Video: Nuances of correct installation of grounded sockets