Every year, beginners and experienced gardeners make efforts to ripen a good harvest of tomatoes in the greenhouse. Some have their own methods and secrets of growing tomatoes, favorite varieties of seeds, but not everyone manages to grow big harvest: plagued by late blight, unfavorable weather conditions. What needs to be taken into account and taken to achieve high tomato yields in a greenhouse?
Tomato productivity depends on the variety. If you focus on weight, the high yield for a small-fruited variety can be 2 kg per bush, and a large-fruited variety will produce 14-15 kg per plant per season, although the number of small fruits will be greater.
The yield of a variety indicated on a bag of seeds does not always coincide with the harvest actually obtained.
How many tasty fruits you can collect depends on the growing conditions and the period of fruiting. Over the course of a year in heated greenhouses with drip irrigation the average tomato yield can reach 50 kg per square meter or up to 20 kg per bush or more. In conventional film greenhouses you can collect up to 15 kg per 1 m2. The increase in yield is also influenced by the determinacy of the variety, that is, limited growth. More high grade allows you to reap a larger harvest.
For indeterminate tomatoes, the fruiting period can be extended:
- Earlier planting;
- The device of additional lighting during the period of growing seedlings;
- Additional heating of the greenhouse in the spring;
- Disease prevention measures.
Choosing a variety with high yield according to the results of 2016, it is possible to grow excellent harvest tomatoes this season too. Better yield the seeds of the hybrids differ. They are more resistant to diseases and temperature changes.
Seeds for seedlings are usually sown in the first week of March. If you sow seeds earlier, it is better to organize additional lighting so that the seedlings do not stretch out. Tomatoes with early ripening can be planted a little later, mid-ripening ones can be sown earlier.
Properly growing seedlings or how to get a large tomato harvest in a greenhouse
You can get a large tomato harvest in a greenhouse by growing healthy and strong seedlings. Exactly at early age The plant sets a program for productivity, so it is important to create all the required conditions.
Conditions for growing seedlings:
- Soil preparation. You can buy or prepare it yourself using ash or potash fertilizers, peat, sand, compost soil.
- Seed treatment. The seeds are pickled in a solution of potassium permanganate, then washed with water. Use growth accelerators, for example, Epin, 3 drops per 0.5 liters of water. From folk remedies use aloe juice.
- Lighting. As soon as the first loops of sprouts appear, the seedlings are transferred to the most illuminated place.
- Watering. Water moderately when the top layer of soil dries out, since overwatering can lead to the appearance of “black leg” and the death of seedlings.
- Dive. When true leaves appear, carefully transplant the seedlings into a container. bigger size, deepening to the cotyledon leaves, for better education roots
- Feeding. Fertilizers are chosen depending on the condition of the seedlings. The first time feeding is carried out 7-10 days after the dive. The rest at the same interval.
- Soil volume. The roots of the plant should feel free and receive sufficient nutrition. Therefore, if the seedlings are kept indoors for 1.5 months or more, then it is recommended to transplant them into 3-liter containers.
U experienced gardeners has its own tricks and secrets. Some people grow seedlings traditional method, someone is using chinese way, and grows seedlings in “snails” and dives into “diapers”.
To prevent diseases, seedlings are sprayed with a solution: 100 g of milk per 1 liter of water.
Before planting, the seedlings are hardened and transferred to a cool room or balcony. In order for the seedlings to take root better, it is better to plant them in cloudy weather or in the evening, carefully, trying not to damage the roots.
High-quality preparation of a greenhouse or how to get a good tomato harvest in a greenhouse
The main task is to create optimal conditions at all stages of tomato growth. Tomatoes are a heat-loving crop, so it is better to grow them in a greenhouse. It is important to properly install the shelter and prepare the soil.
Whatever the greenhouse, it should be installed so that the sun illuminates it as long as possible during the day.
To do this, choose a direction from West to East and move away from shading buildings. The area should be level with loose sandy soil, into which organic and mineral fertilizers are added in the fall or spring, humus, ash, and superphosphate are added. It is also recommended to observe crop rotation, but most often, tomatoes are planted in the same place every year.
How to prepare a greenhouse to grow in it good harvest tomatoes:
- Greenhouse plants are sown in the greenhouse to enrich and disinfect the soil;
- A 15 cm layer of soil is removed from the greenhouse and covered with humus;
- Disinfect the greenhouse using a sulfur bomb “Fas”;
- The covering material and the frame of the greenhouse are treated with a solution of bleach.
Grown seedlings at the age of 40-50 days are planted in a greenhouse in May, when the soil in the greenhouse is well warmed up. If the soil is cold, they do it in a greenhouse warm bed or arrange additional heating, for example, using a stove-stove.
Tips: how to increase the yield of tomatoes in a greenhouse
By planting seedlings in warm, prepared soil and following the basic agricultural techniques for growing tomatoes, you can get good harvest. But by applying some rules, tested by the experience of other gardeners, you can increase it.
To increase the yield of tomatoes in a greenhouse, you need to:
- Maintain temperature balance. At high temperature the ovary does not form well, in cold soil they are not absorbed nutrients, growth is inhibited.
- Maintain humidity levels. Do not allow the coating to fog. Water in the morning and at hot weather ventilate the greenhouse.
- Water. Watering is necessary especially during the period of fruit formation. If the bed dries out quickly, it can be mulched or covered with black film.
- Feed regularly. Don’t get carried away when feeding nitrogen fertilizers, for the formation of fruits, potassium is needed more.
- Properly tying and tying. Do not expose the plants too much and remove all the shoots. Determinate varieties do not need to be pinched; in indeterminate varieties, it is allowed to pinch the tops above the raceme.
- Prevent the development of diseases. Do not thicken plantings, remove damaged leaves, carry out treatment with special preparations.
Harvesting is carried out depending on the degree of ripening of the tomatoes and continues until the onset of the first frost. Wanting to increase the yield of tomatoes in a greenhouse, some gardeners use unconventional methods, for example, they talk to plants. Perhaps this helps increase productivity. But, if you do not care for your tomatoes properly, you will hardly be able to “agree” with them.
Tomato harvest in a greenhouse (video)
To increase your harvest, you need to improve your skills, learn new things, experiment within reasonable limits and act based on your own capabilities. Of course, you need to show love and care when growing tomatoes, create for them favorable conditions, then the tomatoes will definitely delight you with a large harvest.
The question of how to increase tomato yields is relevant for most gardeners. This is not such a difficult task, since you can increase the yield of tomatoes, including small-fruited ones different ways. Tomato productivity depends on many factors, but how to increase it in cases where agricultural technology seems to be followed, but you want to get even more worthy returns? Which techniques should you pay the most attention to?
The general principles of caring for tomatoes are known to all gardeners. Problems with insufficient yield usually arise for two reasons: either the grower neglects important rules, or does not know some secrets. But it is quite possible for anyone to increase the yield of vegetables from their plot of land. Let's remember a few important points.
Soil deoxidation
If from year to year the tomato yield leaves much to be desired, although the owner does not regret (including Gumi’s “fertility elixir”) and generally tries to do everything according to the rules, you should think: maybe it’s due to the increased acidity of the soil (or, conversely, to the increased alkaline index ) or in illiterate deoxidation? Summer cottages They are not always located in zones with slightly acidic soils, which are best for nightshade crops.
Signs of high acidity
If your weed is plantain, horse sorrel, horsetail, cornflower, buttercup, then these are signs of excess acidity. Strong or medium prevents tomatoes from absorbing nutrients. The bushes may be large, but not enough fruit will grow. Important sign lack of calcium (alkali) - blossom-end rot of fruits, when depressed brownish spots form on the bottom of some tomatoes. This is not an infection, but tissue necrosis due to lack of calcium. In addition to tomatoes, any cabbage on such lands suffers greatly from clubroot.
Soil deoxidation methods
There is a solution: regular, proper deoxidation. How regular? It depends on the degree of acidity. You may have to carry out the procedure annually, or maybe once every 2-3 years is enough. It is impossible to correct the situation once and for all; this is the concern of a lifetime spent in the garden. If it’s difficult throughout the entire area, then at least on specific ridges. Timing plays an important role. The best option- from the fall, then both fluff lime and potassium-lime fertilizer will do. In the spring, such an application may have Negative consequences- fresh calcium will compete with nitrogen, and nutrition will also suffer. It is allowed to add dolomite (limestone) flour or chalk in the spring as more soft options. Wood ash- weak deoxidizing agent.
Saving the first flower brush
A serious shortfall in harvest may be due to the fact that the tomatoes do not set on the very first bunch. This happens if the bushes are planted overgrown - or sown too early, or transplanted too late. permanent place. But it is on the first cluster that the fullest fruits are born, and besides, this sets the pace of further development for the plant.
Feeding with boron
The mineral element boron plays the first violin in the processes of fruit set and growth. 2-3 foliar and root feedings per season are vital for tomatoes. We apply boric acid, Mag-Bor, complex sets of microelements.
Maslov method
Gardener Maslov I.M. more than 30 years ago he proposed his own way to increase the yield of tomatoes on one bush. For this tall variety, firstly, it is planted “lying down”, and secondly, the lower stepsons are left near the tomato bush and dug in nearby. If there is enough food and space, then one huge bush can produce several buckets of fruit.
Increasing tomato yield in a greenhouse
Regular stepsoning
Everyone knows that greenhouse tomatoes necessary, but how strictly is this rule followed? Two points are important. Firstly, you need to keep the bush strictly in 1-2 stems. Secondly, growing stepsons need to be eliminated as early as possible. If you do not understand the value of these factors, then increasing your returns will be problematic.
Active ventilation
If the greenhouse is hotter than +30 +35 degrees, then the tomato’s nutrition slows down and all processes are inhibited - flowering, setting, filling fruits. Only saves good ventilation: through (through two opposite doors, plus vents). The breeze not only lowers the temperature, but also shakes the bushes for better pollination. If the design of the greenhouse prevents the establishment of a comfortable microclimate, then the yield of tomatoes can be increased by planting heat-resistant hybrids and using the drug Tomaton (an improved analogue of Ovary).
Zircon treatment
Temperature stress associated with heat and changes is perfectly relieved by the immune system regulator. Using this drug 3-4 times per season can increase tomato yields by 15-50%.
Magnesium supplementation
Any greenhouse covering absorbs some sun rays, and the bushes’ photosynthesis processes are disrupted. They will help correct the situation magnesium fertilizers(magnesium sulfate, Mag-Bor).
Techniques on open ground
Warm corner
If tomatoes in a greenhouse suffer from heat, then under open air they are a little cold. Planting bushes in a sunny, not too windy place helps to increase the yield.
Spraying with Epin
An immunostimulant helps withstand cold and other street stress. Four sprayings per season can increase yield by 15-30%.
Special stepson
Tall tomatoes in open ground stepsons are planted similarly to greenhouse ones. We do things differently with low-growing, determinate varieties. We mercilessly remove shoots growing from the ground besides the main trunk. Next we work up to the first flower brush. Everything else will have time to grow, there is no need to limit it anymore. Excessive thinning leads to reduced yields.
Help a novice gardener with advice. For some reason I can’t seem to grow a good crop of tomatoes. The bushes are powerful dark green, but there are almost no flowers.
Or the fruits on the first cluster show off, but on the second the tomatoes are small and grow very poorly. Probably nothing will ever grow for me. Best regards, Svetlana.
Hello Svetlana! Don't panic and don't lose optimism. You can learn anything if you really want to.
Over time, you will be able to determine by one type what is happening to your tomatoes and learn to deal with the reasons for this plant behavior. Take note of some of our tips. Then you will definitely have a rich harvest.
Plants are “fatten” - what to do?
Judging by the description of the problem, we can say that your tomatoes have begun to “fatten.” This term is used experienced gardeners in the case when the plant grows quickly, has constantly twisted upper leaves, thick stems, dark green color of juicy large leaves.
These signs indicate that all the strength of the plant goes into the greenery and there is no need to expect a harvest. After all, very weak flower clusters are formed, on which there are a small number of flowers. How to deal with this phenomenon? We eliminate the causes of “deviations in development”, for which we carry out the following activities:
- we stop watering the tomatoes for 7-10 days; we do not open the windows and doors in the greenhouse in order to increase the temperature during the day to 25-26 ° C, and at night - to 22-24 ° C; we carry out forced pollination of flowers, for which purpose in a warm In dry weather, between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m., shake the flower brushes with your hands; to delay growth, we root feeding, why take 3 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and dissolve them in 10 liters of water (pour 1 liter of the prepared solution under each plant).
Important! After such an “attack”, your tomatoes will begin to develop in the right direction. Productivity will definitely increase.
How to get a harvest from the second and subsequent brushes?
Try removing browned tomatoes from the first bunch without waiting for them to turn red. After this, water the plants and watch how the fruits on the next tassels begin to grow before your eyes. Place the harvested tomatoes in a sunny place and within two days they will become red and ripe.
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How to increase tomato yield
Last year, when buying tomato seedlings, I was advised to bury the plants when planting, they said that this technique would increase the yield. Is it so?
Armenian farmers intend to increase yields 10 times using new technologies.
Are there other ways to increase the yield of tomatoes? The yield of tomatoes can only be increased by increasing the root system of plants. You've probably noticed that on the bottom of tomato stems there are small pimples.
These are the beginnings of roots that plants lack for abundant fruiting. When these pimples come into contact with soil or other nutrient medium, young roots quickly grow from them.
It turns out than larger area contact of the stem with the soil, the stronger the root system develops. This applies to all types of tomatoes, without exception. By planting high-quality seedlings with deepening, you can not only increase the yield of bushes, but also save land.
For example, a family growing about 100 tomato plants with regular planting will need about 25 plants to get the same yield, and this is quite important for owners of small personal plots.Planting tomato seedlings with depth Many people know that overgrown seedlings are planted “lying down”, i.e. long stem half, and sometimes more, is placed in the soil. Plants planted in this way transform very quickly; after 2-3 weeks they are no longer recognizable.
The stems become thick, the leaves become lush green, and all because additional roots have formed and the plant receives more nutrition. If this technique is used for high-quality seedlings, the result will certainly please you. In this case, you need to make not holes, but furrows for planting.
Leaves should be removed from 2/3 of the stem. It is better to carry out the procedure one day before transplanting the seedlings to a permanent place, so that the resulting wounds have time to dry. Inclined planting of tomatoes with the tops oriented to the north. The tops of the plants should be oriented to the north.
With this planting, the tomatoes will reach towards the sun and, therefore, straighten up. On the part of the stem buried in the soil, roots will soon form, which will connect to providing the plant with nutrition.
The resulting root system will be much more effective than the original one, and the harvest will increase several times. There is also a way to increase the yield of tomatoes. It consists of rooting 1 or 2 lower stepsons for the same purpose, increasing the root system.
To do this, you need to wait until the indicated stepsons grow enough (about 20 cm) so that they can be tilted and pinned. Excess leaves should also be removed.
The place of contact with the ground must be sprinkled with soil. On the left is a tomato with rooted lower stepsons tomato, for comparison on the right is a usually planted plant. After some time, the stepsons will take root and begin to grow. And after about a month they will catch up with the main stem in height and number of fruits.
Interestingly, on the buried stepson, tomatoes begin to form literally a few centimeters from the ground. It is worth noting that these methods An increase in tomato yield slightly delays the onset of fruiting (approximately 1.5 weeks). If you decide to use these methods, then the distance between neighboring plants will need to be increased.
When growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, it is convenient to arrange the plants in 2 rows in a checkerboard pattern. Care remains virtually unchanged, only the volume of water during irrigation should be increased, taking into account the more powerful root system tomatoes. We hope that you will use our recommendations and be able to confirm their effectiveness.
It has long been proven that those grown in closed ground tomatoes are highly productive. They are popular determinate varieties which are considered the most cost-effective. Thus, the yield level of tall tomatoes is significantly higher than that of low-growing tomatoes. Tomatoes grown in a greenhouse produce more high yield than those growing in open ground.
Planting tomatoes
Before planting, seeds are dipped in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. You should be prepared for the fact that growing seedlings in a greenhouse is not an easy task. Initially, you should prepare the seeds.
Before sowing in a greenhouse, they need to be pickled by dipping them in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. To prepare it, you need to dissolve five g of potassium permanganate in a liter of water.
After dressing, the seeds should be thoroughly washed and placed in an infusion of ash for 24 hours, and the seeds should be immersed to a depth of no more than two centimeters. This is necessary to ensure that the seeds are in a space filled with oxygen.
After a day, they need to be removed without washing, and laid out on a piece of cotton cloth moistened with ash infusion. The fabric with the seeds is then placed in a tightly closed plastic container, in this environment the seeds will germinate. After the seeds hatch, they are placed overnight in the refrigerator on a shelf, where the temperature is about 1 degree.
During the day, the seeds should be in a warmer place. You need to repeat the action of moving the seeds at least five times.
Thanks to the sharp alternation of different temperature conditions, it is possible to achieve not only hardening of seedlings, but also to obtain friendly and strong seedlings. Such measures will contribute to the fastest possible fruiting of tomatoes, which plays an important role during early forcing in the greenhouse. While the seeds are hardening, it is necessary to prepare the soil for the seed boxes.
Growing seedlings is best done in a mixture consisting of river sand, soil removed from the forest belt, and humus, and the ingredients should be selected according to equal parts. Each of the components must be carefully sifted.
To one bucket of ready-made soil mixture, add two boxes of double superphosphate matches and about half a liter of wood ash. Phosphate is a substance that promotes good absorption of nitrogen from the soil, early development of flower clusters, formation of the root system, early ripening of fruits and absorption of soil nitrogen. The soil for seedlings is prepared as follows: river sand, earth and humus are mixed in equal parts. If seeds are needed for tomato seedlings, they should be planted in last days January. It should be planted in special seed boxes in which the nutrient mixture is placed and carefully compacted.
Furrows are made in the boxes, each depth should be up to one centimeter. There should be a distance of four centimeters between the grooves. Then you need to sprinkle the crops with moistened soil mixture and cover the box with plastic wrap.
At this time, the temperature in the greenhouse should be at least 25 degrees. Five to six days after sowing, the first shoots should appear. At this stage, you can remove the film from the box and install a block with fluorescent lamps above the seedlings.
Tomatoes need to be illuminated in the morning, from six to ten o'clock, and in the evening, from four to nine. Thus, tomatoes will develop in a 15-hour day of light.
It is worth considering that when adding additional lighting, the temperature in the greenhouse should not exceed eighteen degrees. You can increase the yield of tomatoes in the greenhouse if you plant the seedlings directly from the box into cups or pots and More than a month illuminate them. So extra hours daylight hours allow you to increase the yield by at least 30 percent. In this case, fruit ripening occurs two to three weeks earlier than usual. landing ready seedlings tomatoes in the greenhouse should be carried out in early March
Growing seedlings
Scheme for planting tomatoes in a greenhouse. Tomatoes are plants that require large areas of nutrition. Planting in greenhouse beds should be done in rows.
Between each of the rows there should be a distance of about eighty centimeters, between each of the bushes - about thirty. To plant a tomato, you need to dig an oblong hole as deep as a spade and pour a couple of buckets of two-year-old humus into the resulting ditch.
You need to mix 5 cups of ash and 1 kg of superphosphate with the soil. As they grow, after a week it will be necessary to tie the seedlings to a horizontal trellis. Once every seven days, it is necessary to wrap the upper parts of the plants around the twine fixed to the trellis.
Plants should form into one stem; they should be planted throughout the entire growing season. Under no circumstances should you cut off the shoots with a knife: this way you can introduce a viral disease into the cut of the plant.
The stepson should be done exclusively with your fingers. It is necessary to remove only the lower leaves at the moment when the fruits on the first cluster of tomatoes begin to turn brown. Increases the yield in the greenhouse and a favorable temperature regime.
So, before fruiting begins, on sunny days the temperature should be 21-22 degrees, at night - 16-17 degrees and in cloudy weather - 19-20. At the time of fruiting, the temperature must be increased by a couple of degrees.
Regulation temperature regime can be done by ventilating the greenhouse. average temperature the soil in it should be about 17-20 degrees.
Cipollino garden centers. Tomaton, Parthenocarpine. 06/11/2015
Feeding and spraying tomatoes
Tomato transplantation: drawing of a normal and overgrown plant. Seedlings should be fertilized for the first time on the 10th day after planting the seeds. To do this, you need to prepare an infusion of mullein, mixed in ten liters of water.
A bucket of solution will be enough to feed 25 bushes. You can prepare a solution by placing mullein in a container (it should occupy half the volume), filling it to the brim with water and leaving for five days.
Fertilizing should be done every 10 days throughout the entire growing season. The third feeding can be done with this infusion with the addition of nitroammophoska (20 g per bucket of solution).
It is worth considering that overfeeding can have a detrimental effect on the plant; it poses a particular danger fresh manure.Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse should be accompanied by regular watering. It is not recommended to water the bush itself; the soil near the tomato bush should be moistened.
The rate and frequency of watering should be determined based on the size of the bush and weather conditions. So, in hot weather, a bush about three meters high must be watered abundantly.
But it is also necessary to adhere to measures when watering. Tomatoes respond well to foliar feeding. This can be done by spraying the leaves or finely spraying a nutrient solution.
The solution can be prepared by combining Matchbox urea with a gram of potassium permanganate and dissolve in ten liters of water. This amount will be enough to process 60-70 plants.
If you neglect spraying, the flowers may fall off and the yield will decrease several times. Special attention should be paid to preventive spraying aimed at counteracting a complex of diseases. To do this, you need to use copper oxychloride (to prepare the solution, you need to dissolve 30 g of 90% preparations in 10 liters of water).
A solution will do copper sulfate(per 10 liters of water - 10 g). Tomatoes need to be processed from the moment the fruits set on the second cluster every ten days. Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse requires the following materials and tools: Tomatoes are sprayed against diseases and for feeding.
- solutions of manganese and ash for seed treatment; soil mixture;
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In addition, this phenomenon also indicates excessive air humidity in the root zone. This is already dangerous from the point of view of the development of late blight and other fungal diseases.
If air ventilation is actively carried out in the greenhouse, then there is another way to reduce humidity - this is mulching. Sprinkle the soil with sawdust, cover it with straw, or spread black spunbond under the plants. This technique will also protect the soil from overheating during hot daytime hours.
Simple rules
- Do not create dense plantings; ideally, each leaf of the plant should be illuminated by the sun. Remove unnecessary stepsons and leaves in a timely manner. There should not be a single leaf at a height of 30 cm from the ground. Water the plants at the roots, and never spray them with water. Water for irrigation should be warm - 18-22°C. If there is a barrel of water in the greenhouse, it must be kept closed so as not to create high humidity. Water the plantings no later than lunch, and also better in the morning when the water temperature is higher than the air temperature. Place dark stones or plastic bottles with water. They take in excess heat during the day and release heat at night. When fertilizing, use fertilizers that predominate in phosphorus and potassium. Feed three times during the growing season - 10 days after planting seedlings in open ground and then spray the plants with microfertilizer solutions at monthly intervals. The required components of the mixture are those nutrients that are sorely lacking in our soils - boron, magnesium, manganese, zinc, copper, molybdenum, and in neutral lands - iron. From the moment of planting the seedlings, use immunomodulators: zircon, immunocytophyte, elin. To improve pollination and fruit formation (and tomatoes are a self-fertile crop, that is, the flower pollinates itself), dry air and a temperature of 20 to 26 ° C are desirable. It is useful to lightly shake the plants in sunny, hot weather. Tomatoes require rare and abundant watering in the first half of the growing season. From the moment the fruits begin to fill, they are watered 2 times a week, but in small doses.
If you do not follow these rules, you will be bitterly disappointed. The fact is that an “incorrect” greenhouse is an excellent springboard for the development of diseases and pests. An “incorrect” greenhouse is an excellent springboard for the development of diseases and pests.
Source: Season at the dacha. Special issue No. 1 2013 The practical part of the article “How to achieve maximum yield from a single bush” is at the bottom of the article.
Can those in a hurry go there straight away? . By the way, everyone will be glad to see your tips and secrets How do you increase tomato yields? Feel free to write in the comments! Part one.
Openly philosophical. The topic of today's article is not as boring as it might seem, looking at its title. Why did you even think about writing such a note?
Probably because for me (and many others, for sure), yield is one of the main factors when choosing varieties for planting. Notice I didn't say what it was main factor , but it is included in at least the top three main factors. Please keep in mind that when I talk about yield in the future, I will proceed from my growing conditions.
This is, firstly, cultivation in a greenhouse, and secondly, a climate relatively close to the climate of the Moscow region and the northwestern region of Russia. However, most middle zone According to the conditions for growing tomatoes, it is not particularly different. It makes no sense for us to rely on the inscriptions on the packs “up to 10 kilos per bush”, “up to 40 kg per square meter”, in the above growing conditions.
I'll briefly explain why. In Israel, one of the most “advanced” countries in growing tomatoes (and other vegetables and fruits), tomatoes are harvested in greenhouses all year round. The plant produces 30, 40, 50 clusters of products.
A smaller return is considered unprofitable. Naturally, no one in such conditions will grow determinate varieties or grow tomatoes with 2-3 stems. So what can we do if we have the information that “the plant’s yield is 40 kg per bush”?
That’s right, except for the word “Wow”, or, more precisely, “Wow!”, we cannot do anything practical for ourselves with this information. Because we are good if we can remove 7 tassels into 1 stem.
And if there are 8 clusters, then this is a very successful year. What can a simple average gardener hope for, what can a simple average gardener count on when choosing a “more productive” variety for himself? Oddly enough, the most accurate criterion for assessing productivity will be the reviews of other gardeners.
Moreover, preferably one similar to yours climate zone. I won’t point fingers, but on our tomato forum there are quite a few reports on varieties, with a large coverage by region.
Take a look at the competition of 2011 and 2012, you will probably be able to choose varieties to suit your taste. By the way, decide - what are they? for you criteria for good yield? Should it be measured in the number of fruits or in kilograms? For example, a bush large-fruited tomatoes, which is already becoming a classic “Pink Honey”.
On average, you will get only 10-15 tomatoes per bush. It seems like not enough. But the weight of each tomato will be about 0.3-0.5 kg, and some specimens can weigh up to a kilogram.
According to experience, it turns out to be about 5 kilos per bush, a good yield. Now let’s take for example some cherry tomato “bead” or “red cherry” with a declared yield of “up to 1.5 kg per plant.” Again it seems not enough. But in pieces it will be at least 50-70 tomatoes.
And if you plant Ildi, then it’s one and a half hundred small tomatoes. May be to you needed exactly like this productivity. And you can take as an example the “strong middle peasants” - Dutch hybrids, such as those that can produce 40-50 clusters in prolonged cultivation.
In our greenhouse they will give you 6-8 brushes, 400-700 grams each. This will also be a good yield, but the variety has much greater potential. Part two. Practical-empirical. And now to practical side question.
How to achieve maximum productivity. This is a very broad question. But I will note the main points that are worth paying attention to here. Step by step, with early development plants.1.
Composition of soil for seedlings. It should not be too “manured”; the plant should think about the harvest, and not about the fact that it can grow leaves for 5-6 months. On the other hand, too poor soil will not allow you to build up the vegetative mass necessary for the formation of a crop.
Focus either on trusted soil manufacturers or do it yourself, adding more ash and other potash fertilizers, and nitrogen - very moderate.2. Light. At the very early stage, as soon as seedlings appear, and up to 3-4 weeks, it is very important to give the plants maximum light.
The tomato harvest is programmed based on the data received by the plant about the conditions in which it grows, and this happens within the first 3-4 weeks.3. Volume of seedling pot. You should not expect maximum yield from a bush grown for 60-70 days in a liter pot.
When the roots rest against the bottom, the walls twist, and become entangled in a ball, the yield potential decreases. The recommended volume is 3 liters when grown for longer than 40 days; you can keep it in a 1-liter pot for up to 40 days.
Are objections motivated by “where will I put all this” not taken into account by plants? .4. Deadline for transplantation to a permanent location. If you took point 3 seriously, then the influence of point 4 is somewhat neutralized.
For ordinary growers who grow seedlings in pots of 1 liter or less, it is worth considering that if you have brought the plant to flowering in your glass, then there is hope for maximum yield melts right before our eyes. By the time the first cluster blooms, the tomato should sit in a permanent place in warm soil and enjoy life!5. The composition of the soil and the fertilization of the soil at the growing site.
Here, I think, it is already clear that a good harvest will not work in empty sand. At the same time, excess nitrogen is again unacceptable, the plant will go fattening, increasing green mass to the detriment of the harvest. Good, rotted compost, ash, superphosphate - that's what our tomatoes need.6.
Soil and air temperature. In cold soil, the roots do not fully absorb nutrients. In the hot sun, the ovary does not form or even falls off. Maintain temperature balance.
If your soil doesn’t warm up well, make a warm bed, even in a greenhouse.7. Air humidity. Too much wet air in a greenhouse it contributes to pollen clumping, poor pollination, and the development of diseases.
Ventilate the greenhouse properly, and when the threat of frost has passed, keep the windows open all the time.8. Watering. It is not always necessary in open ground, but in a greenhouse without watering we cannot see a large harvest. Water is especially required during the fruiting period.
To retain moisture in the soil, mulch the beds with tomatoes.9. Correct formation plants. By leaving stepsons indiscriminately on an indeterminate plant, we lose the harvest, just as by removing all stepsons on a determinate plant.
Remember, no matter how many stepsons you leave, the possibilities of tomato roots are not limitless. In the conditions of the middle zone, we can leave 6-9 brushes per 1 root; more are unlikely to have time to fill.10. Unfortunately, treatment for diseases.
Maximum yield without it is possible, but unlikely. I only treat with copper preparations, and even then not always. I consider the use of systemic fungicides unacceptable for myself. Many people think differently and spray everything that is sold.
I won’t convince you, everyone decide for themselves! I think these are not all the factors. But even if you use some of the above points when growing your tomatoes, the result in increasing the yield will not be long in coming.
Last year, when buying tomato seedlings, I was advised to bury the plants when planting, they said that this technique would increase the yield. Is it so? Are there other ways to increase tomato yield?
How to increase your tomato yield? The yield of tomatoes can only be increased by increasing the root system of plants. You've probably noticed that there are small pimples on the bottom of tomato stems. These are the beginnings of roots, which plants lack for abundant fruiting. When these pimples come into contact with soil or other nutrient medium, young roots quickly grow from them. It turns out that the larger the area of contact between the stem and the soil, the stronger the root system develops. This applies to all types of tomatoes without exception.
By planting high-quality seedlings in depth, you can not only increase the yield of bushes, but also save land. For example, a family growing about 100 tomato plants using regular planting will need about 25 plants to get the same yield, and this is quite important for owners of small plots.
Planting tomato seedlings with depth
Many people know that overgrown seedlings are planted “lying down”, i.e. the long stem is half, or sometimes more, placed in the soil. Plants planted in this way transform very quickly; after 2-3 weeks they are no longer recognizable. The stems become thick, the leaves become lush green, and all because additional roots have formed and the plant receives more nutrition.
If this technique is used for high-quality seedlings, the result will certainly please you. In this case, you need to make not holes, but furrows for planting. Leaves should be removed from 2/3 of the stem. It is better to carry out the procedure a day before transplanting the seedlings to a permanent place, so that the resulting wounds have time to dry out.
Slanted planting of tomatoes with the top oriented north
The tops of the plants should be oriented north. With this planting, the tomatoes will reach towards the sun and, therefore, straighten up. On the part of the stem buried in the soil, roots will soon form, which will connect to providing the plant with nutrition. The resulting tomato root system will be much more effective than the original one, and the harvest will increase several times..
There is another way to increase tomato yields. It consists of rooting 1 or 2 lower stepsons for the same purpose, increasing the root system. To do this, you need to wait until the indicated stepsons grow enough (about 20 cm) so that they can be tilted and pinned. Excess leaves should also be removed. The place of contact with the ground must be covered with soil.
On the left is a tomato with rooted lower stepsons of the tomato; for comparison, on the right is a usually planted plant
After some time, the stepsons will take root and begin to grow. And after about a month they will catch up with the main stem in height and number of fruits. Interestingly, on the buried stepson, tomatoes begin to form literally a few centimeters from the ground.
It is worth noting that these methods of increasing tomato yields somewhat delay the onset of fruiting (approximately 1.5 weeks). If you decide to use these methods, then the distance between neighboring plants will need to be increased. When growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, it is convenient to arrange the plants in 2 rows in a checkerboard pattern. Care remains virtually unchanged, only the volume of water when watering should be increased, given the more powerful root system of tomatoes.
To grow a rich harvest of tomatoes, summer residents resort to various time-tested agrotechnical techniques, which will be discussed in the article. 15 tips from experienced gardeners will tell you how to increase the fruiting of tomatoes, avoiding late blight and other diseases.
It is undesirable to add fresh manure and bird droppings to the soil in beds and greenhouses, even in the fall, only humus and matured compost.
From mineral fertilizers Phosphates and potassium compounds are plowed under tomatoes in the fall, and additional nitrogen products in the spring (before planting).
Nitrogen fertilizing with fresh slurry and mullein during the growing season is contraindicated for tomato bushes.
Tomato fruiting is negatively affected by an overdose of nitrogen in the soil. Even at the beginning of the growing season, you should not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizing. Fattening plants actively grow leaves and young shoots to the detriment of fruit formation.
After planting seedlings in a permanent place, it is advisable to skip measures to moisten the soil, especially for plants transferred to greenhouses in early dates(March-early April). The water added is quite enough for the rooting of seedlings. A slight moisture deficit contributes to the development of an extensive plant root system, which searches for valuable moisture in the deep layers of the soil.
The first watering is carried out when the soil dries out, especially during the period of lack of precipitation (in greenhouses - 14-20 days after planting).
Fertilizing with nitrogen (ammonium nitrate solution, mullein infusion, fermented nettle infusion, etc.) is carried out only if there are signs of nitrogen deficiency (stretching of stems, stunted growth, fading of the above-ground parts).
Removing 2-3 lower powerful leaves is stressful for the bush, which forces the plant to activate fruiting processes.
On vines with shoots, the tops must be pinched, otherwise the new flower clusters will absorb most of the nutritious juices of the bush.
Potassium feeding of a tomato plantation is carried out during the formation of 3-4 clusters, when the fruits are full. A solution of potassium magnesium, potassium salt, potassium nitrate or ash infusion is used as a source of this element.
To create additional protection for bushes and introduce nutritional components at the beginning and height of fruiting, the above-ground parts of the bushes are treated with iodine infusion (5-10 drops of pharmaceutical iodine tincture per 10 liters) or ash decoction (pour 2 cups of sifted ash into a bucket of boiling water, leave for 24 hours, filter and use through a spray bottle).
In June, the bush formation procedure must be carried out. All stepchildren, additional shoots growing from the root, and initial sheet plates, location below the first flowering brush.
At the same time, be sure to tie the bushes to the supports, if this activity has not been carried out earlier.
To avoid, which usually rages in the second half of the growing season (August-September), it is advisable to treat the plants with a solution of Fitosporin or an infusion of garlic from the moment the seedlings are planted at intervals of 10-14 days from the moment the seedlings are planted in beds or in greenhouses.