Preparations for the new planting season begin in the fall, after the current year's harvest. In open ground, most tomato pathogens will be killed by winter frosts, but in closed ground, special treatment is required. In a greenhouse, especially one made of polycarbonate, the likelihood that late blight spores will persist in the surface layer of soil, on plant debris or structural elements is very high. Therefore, when growing tomatoes indoors, autumn treatment against late blight is a prerequisite for obtaining a high-quality harvest next season.
If there had been treatment in the spring, the problem would have been avoided in the summer Processing methods
Disinfection of a polycarbonate greenhouse, which helps to destroy and subsequently prevent tomato late blight, can be carried out in various ways. It is recommended to do the treatment annually in the fall after harvesting, but the choice of method and means for treatment depends on the preferences of the gardener and on the subject of treatment (land or structure).
Processing means can be divided into:
- chemical;
- biological;
- temperature.
The structural elements of the greenhouse can be easily treated with chemicals. Temperature and chemical methods are suitable for soil disinfection, but biological methods should not be neglected, which should be classified as preventive.
Late blight dooms the future harvest Means for processing structures
When processing structures, special attention must be paid to the joints of various elements, because it is in the cracks that a large number of late blight spores are stored. In the fall, it is allowed to use fairly aggressive preparations in high concentrations, because before planting the tomatoes they will evaporate. But most greenhouse treatments require safety precautions.
1. Soap solution.
The simplest and safest remedy. It is impossible to defeat tomato late blight with this remedy alone, but it is necessary to thoroughly wash the greenhouse before treating it with more effective means. A soap solution helps remove dust and dirt, which will improve the interaction of a stronger drug with surfaces, which means the processing efficiency will be higher. For polycarbonate, such wet cleaning is practically the only option to maintain transparency.
Fumigation of greenhouses with sulfur is considered one of the most effective methods. You can simply sprinkle sulfur on pallets of burning coals, but it is much more convenient to use special fumigation sticks.
During combustion, a gas (sulfur dioxide) is formed, which penetrates even the narrowest cracks. But do not forget that the gas is just as harmful to humans as it is to late blight pathogens. Therefore, when fumigating with sulfur, it is necessary to leave the room and close it tightly immediately after igniting the substance. You cannot enter the greenhouse for 3 days. Also, processing should not be carried out near the house.
3. Copper sulfate.
Use a solution of 75–100 g per 10 liters of water, which is used to thoroughly treat all surfaces.
Everything must be done in a timely manner, especially processing the greenhouse! 4. Bleach.
This is the best option for greenhouses with a wooden frame. To prepare the solution, 400 g of lime are infused in 10 liters of water for 3–4 hours. The liquid is used to treat the surfaces of the greenhouse, and the sediment is used to coat the wooden frame. After treatment, it is recommended to close the greenhouse for 2 days.
5. Fungicidal preparations.
On sale you can find a large selection of drugs belonging to the class of systemic fungicides. They are actively used to protect plants, but in high concentrations they can also be used to disinfect greenhouses. Treatment can be carried out with the following preparations: “Acrobat-MC”, “Fitosporin-M”, “Profit Gold”.
Methods for soil disinfection
The ideal option is to completely replace the soil in the greenhouse, or at least remove 10 cm of the top layer. Removing contaminated soil and filling it with new soil is very difficult and often impossible. It is much easier to cultivate the soil directly in the greenhouse in the fall, and simple affordable means are quite suitable for this.
Use of biological methods
Tomato pathogens can be combated with the help of beneficial microorganisms. Increasing their concentration in the soil contributes to its improvement. Microorganisms can be introduced by adding compost, manure or special preparations to the soil, for example, “Baikal EM” and “Siyanie”.
The results of the work are really encouraging Such methods will help improve the soil health by restoring the natural balance of microorganisms, but when treating late blight they must be used in combination with other means.
Watering with drug solutions
Potassium permanganate solution is known as an excellent antiseptic. It is actively used not only in medicine and in everyday life, but also as a disinfectant in gardening. To destroy tomato pathogens, it is recommended to spill the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate after harvesting all plant debris.
For irrigation, you can use solutions of effective microorganisms, for example, Fitosporin-M. However, the maximum effect can only be achieved in well-moistened soil.
Temperature treatment
Severe frost or high temperature are detrimental to many microorganisms. Winter frosts are the best disinfectant. If possible, it is better to open the greenhouse for the winter, and open the windows and doors of polycarbonate structures. Freezing of structures and soil contributes to the destruction of a significant number of spores. After freezing, it is better to cover the ground with snow.
Sometimes watering with boiling water is used, followed by covering with film for deeper steaming, but this method is more appropriate to use for early spring treatment.
A competent approach is a guarantee of success! When choosing a method to combat late blight in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you should not stop at one product. The best option is a combination of chemical, temperature and biological methods, because prevention is much simpler than treatment, and an integrated approach has proven effective many times.
At the end of the summer season, when the harvest is harvested, treatment of the polycarbonate greenhouse is a prerequisite for its further operation. A set of autumn and spring activities will make it possible to prepare the greenhouse for the new season and significantly extend its service life. Few people know about the need for preparatory work among beginning summer residents. But experienced gardeners sometimes simply ignore following the basic rules of care.
Why is it necessary to treat polycarbonate greenhouses?
First of all, it is necessary to treat greenhouses and greenhouses made of polycarbonate for sanitary reasons. Unfortunately, a favorable microclimate with high levels of humidity and temperature conditions contributes not only to the growth of vegetable crops, but also to the development of various pathogenic flora:
- Pathogens of infectious diseases;
- Spores of pathogenic fungi and mold;
- Pathogenic microorganisms;
- Pathogenic bacteria.
Without treating the greenhouse frame, polycarbonate covering and disinfecting the soil in the beds, the accumulated pathogens will infect plants planted in the new season. At the same time, many pathogens are able to maintain their viability for a long time. For example, spores of late blight, which infect tomatoes in greenhouses for 3...5 years, retain the ability to develop when exposed to favorable conditions.
Neglecting the rules of crop rotation leads to soil depletion and the accumulation of toxins and pathogenic bacteria in it. In this case, autumn treatment and disinfection of the soil in polycarbonate greenhouses is an excellent preventive measure against most ailments affecting vegetable crops. This measure allows you to avoid the appearance of fusarium and blossom end rot. Tillage is effective even when.
Treatment of greenhouse structures in the fall allows you to effectively combat insect pests. As a rule, by winter, adult individuals penetrate the ground and wait out the cold there perfectly. Digging the soil or partially replacing the soil can prevent the appearance of whiteflies and other pests in the greenhouse. Fumigation with sulfur bombs will save plants from spider mites.
That is why treating a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall and spring helps not only reduce the risk of infectious diseases on cultivated crops, but also clean the structure itself from dirt, rust and dust. In addition, preparing the construction of protected soil involves cleaning and disinfecting garden tools, shelving, trellises and other auxiliary elements.
Main stages of greenhouse processing
Autumn and spring treatment of polycarbonate greenhouses consists of a whole range of mandatory measures:
- Cleaning of all aids
- Removing plant debris, including weeds.
- Replacement or disinfection of soil.
- Cleaning and processing of all parts of the greenhouse structure.
- Preparing the building for winter.
Autumn cleaning
You can start processing the greenhouse in the fall immediately after harvesting. First of all, the garter material, pegs and other auxiliary materials should be removed. Shelves and trellises are removed from the structure for further cleaning and disinfection. In designs that require the removal of polycarbonate, the coating is removed. After all, pathogenic microorganisms can also accumulate on them.
Before processing greenhouse soil, it must be freed from all plant remains: stems, tops, fallen seeds and roots. If the crops grown in the greenhouse were susceptible to any disease, the vegetation is destroyed. Healthy greens can be used to fill a compost heap.
ATTENTION! Compost should not be used to grow the plants from which it is derived.
All auxiliary elements (racks, trellises, stakes, twine, equipment) located in the greenhouse are subjected to disinfection treatment. To do this, you can use Fitosporin or a dark burgundy solution of potassium permanganate. All equipment is soaked for 1 hour, after which it is washed, dried and stored for winter storage.
Soil sanitation
Since crop rotation in protected soil structures is not always observed, it is worth replacing the greenhouse soil or disinfecting it. In the first case, the top layer of soil, approximately 7...9 cm high, is removed. A new layer of healthy soil is laid in its place. After this, the treated greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate is applied with organic fertilizers and dug up along with the remaining lower layer of soil. If preparation for the upcoming season is carried out in the spring, only rotted organic matter can be used.
IMPORTANT! Contaminated soil removed from the greenhouse is best placed in piles at the edge of the site and processed. For this, the stacks are laid in layers (15...20 cm) sprinkling each layer with bleach at the rate of 250 grams of lime per 1 m2. In the summer, frozen piles are carefully dug up and left again for the winter. And only next spring can the treated soil be brought into your polycarbonate greenhouse.
If there have been no outbreaks of diseases or pests in the greenhouse, the soil can be left. But then, for preventive purposes, it is disinfected. The soil is dug up in the fall. All insect larvae are removed from it. After this, disinfection is carried out with one of these means:
- 3% solution of iron sulfate;
- copper sulfate solution;
- lime solution with chlorine;
- watering the soil with boiling water.
IMPORTANT! When preparing for fall using chemicals, it is safe to do only in the fall. It is better not to use them in spring.
Frame and coating processing
The frame to which the polycarbonate is attached is carefully inspected for rust and other damage. The rust is removed and the cleaned area is painted over. Any structural damage found is repaired.
All frame elements are washed with warm soapy water. The greenhouse is processed in the fall or spring, both inside and outside. Then the soap solution must be removed with a damp cloth. This must be done carefully, avoiding soap getting into the soil. To process polycarbonate, use only non-abrasive detergents and rags or soft sponges to avoid damaging the coating.
What to process
The disinfection of the greenhouse is completed in the fall by treatment with chemical or biological products. Moreover, you should know that not everything that can be used to treat a greenhouse in the fall is suitable for spring treatment. In spring it is better to limit yourself to biological means.
The most common methods for treating a greenhouse in the fall are:
- fumigation with a sulfur bomb;
- fumigation with cuttings sulfur;
- pollination with bleach;
- irrigation with copper sulfate.
ATTENTION! Fumigation of a greenhouse with sulfur is unacceptable in cases where its frame is made of galvanized steel. Sulfur dioxide released during combustion will accelerate metal corrosion. These products can be used to treat painted and wooden frames of greenhouses.
Fumigation with a sulfur bomb
IMPORTANT! Before processing a polycarbonate greenhouse, keep in mind that sulfur dioxide released when sulfur burns is harmful to the metal parts of the structure.
When using this method of disinfecting a greenhouse, you should use protective equipment: gloves, a gas mask (respirator) and goggles. After all, the gas released by sulfur is very toxic. All cracks in the building are sealed, transoms and doors are closed.
For 10 m 3 you will need 600 g. substances. The checkers are evenly placed around the entire perimeter of the building on metal sheets or stone stands and set on fire. The fire should be started from the side away from the entrance. The greenhouse must be left immediately to avoid poisoning.
Fumigation with cuttings sulfur
When fumigating with sulfur cuttings, you also need to use means of protection against the toxic effects of sulfur smoke. The greenhouse must be tightly closed to achieve the desired concentration of gas released.
To process 10 m 3 you will need 1 kg of cutting sulfur, several metal baking sheets, and the same number of basins or similar containers. The sulfur should be crushed and mixed with an equal amount of charcoal, placed on baking sheets, which are placed in basins and placed evenly over the entire area of the greenhouse. After igniting the substance, the greenhouse should be left.
It will be possible to open a structure treated with sulfur cuttings or sulfur bombs only after 5...7 days. It should be ventilated for another 2-3 weeks. At this time, no work can be carried out in the greenhouse. Treatment using fumigation helps to disinfect not only the structure itself, but also the greenhouse soil.
Bleach treatment
You can disinfect a greenhouse in the fall and spring using bleach. To prepare the solution you will need:
- 400 gr. bleach;
- 10 liters of water;
- Spray.
Bleach is added to the water, mixed thoroughly and left for four hours. The soil and the building itself are sprayed with the prepared solution. At the end of the treatment, the greenhouse is closed for 1-2 days, then thoroughly ventilated. The product must also be used to disinfect equipment.
Copper sulfate treatment
An excellent disinfectant for disinfecting a greenhouse in the fall or spring is a solution of copper sulfate. To prepare it you will need:
- If no disease outbreaks have been observed in the current season - 75 gr. copper sulfate, if any - 150 g;
- 10 liters of water;
- Spray.
Copper sulfate is dissolved in 10 liters of water. All parts of the building are treated with the resulting mixture using a spray bottle.
Preparing the greenhouse structure for winter
In the fall, after treatment, a polycarbonate greenhouse does not have to be disassembled for the winter. But you should make sure that it successfully survives the cold. To protect the greenhouse from possible overload with snow, 3-4 T-shaped wooden supports should be installed. They will allow you to strengthen the roof of the building before the onset of spring.
In the leeward parts of the greenhouse, where it is likely more accumulated snow, more supports should be installed. It is better to place the supports on a hard surface so that they are not pressed into the ground. By strengthening the frame in this way, you can be sure of the safety of the structure in winter.
Spring treatment
In the spring, the greenhouse treated in the fall is washed with detergent. The polycarbonate coating is cleaned with a soft sponge and soapy water. This will provide the plants being planted with maximum sunlight. Dig grooves along the walls of the greenhouse. They will allow melt water to be easily drained from the structure. Dig up the beds and cover them with black non-woven material to warm the soil.
If the greenhouse was not treated in the fall, this can be done in the spring. But it is important to remember that in spring it is not advisable to use chemicals to clean and disinfect the soil and structure. It is better to begin activities to prepare the building for the upcoming season in early March.
Spring greenhouse treatment includes:
- Cleaning up old plants and auxiliary materials;
- Cleaning and disinfection of the building;
- Disinfection and soil preparation.
Cleaning dust and dirt
Before treating the greenhouse in the spring against late blight and other unwanted diseases, you should remove all unnecessary things from it. After clearing the soil of vegetation and devices, the greenhouse frame is treated with soapy water. If the plants suffered from some disease, a remedy for this disease is added to the solution. Then the soap solution is washed off with a damp sponge or rag.
Processing the greenhouse in the spring includes cleaning and disinfection of equipment. It can be disinfected with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate. Wooden elements should be treated with bleach.
Soil preparation
Processing a polycarbonate greenhouse in spring, as in autumn, involves preparing the soil. It is best to replace it, especially if the plants are sick. If there were no diseases, the soil does not need to be changed, but it should be disinfected by dousing it with boiling water or spilling it with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Everyone who grows crops on their plot knows what late blight is. The late blight fungus mercilessly affects almost all types of plants of the nightshade family, but does not disdain some others. Particularly favorable conditions for its development are in greenhouses and film shelters for growing plants. The problem of late blight under the film can persist from year to year! Now I’ll tell you in detail how to treat a greenhouse after late blight in the fall.
What is late blight or late blight
This plant disease is of a bacterial nature; late blight is a fungus that attacks the leaves, stems, and ovaries of healthy plants. If the development of the disease is not stopped at the very beginning, it progresses, gradually infecting neighboring crops and spreading throughout the entire area. Lethal outcome for plants can occur very quickly if no measures are taken.
The most favorable conditions for the development of late blight are a warm, humid climate. Rainy summer is ideal for intensive growth of late blight mycelium and damage of large areas of seedlings. And in greenhouse conditions, the appearance and growth of fungus is simply inevitable, due to the constant release of condensation on the film and heat inside the shelter.
If you want to grow healthy seedlings and get high-quality fruits, a constant fight against late blight in the greenhouse is inevitable. There are several popular methods that allow you to neutralize the fungus completely or in significant quantities.
The best methods of struggle and popular remedies
The effectiveness of late blight destruction depends on the methodical nature of your actions and the careful implementation of a set of measures. There is little that can be solved here by treatment alone; it is important to take a multifaceted approach to removing the disease from the greenhouse.
agricultural technology in a greenhouse
Autumn is the time to get the greenhouse in order after summer work. In order to confidently plant fresh seedlings in it in the spring, you need to perform a number of certain procedures to properly prepare the greenhouse for wintering. What needs to be done for this?
Chemical control methods
Chemical preparations used to treat the greenhouse structure and soil can reliably get rid of late blight.
The simplest disinfectant available to every gardener - soap solution. 
Of course, one should not expect high efficiency from it, but it is quite capable of cleaning surfaces and preparing them for the application of more aggressive drugs. In addition, soap also has a disinfectant effect.
A more serious solution can be called copper sulfate. 
It is diluted in approximately 100 grams per bucket of water and carefully treated all surfaces - greenhouse covering, supporting structures, doors, etc.
For greenhouses with a base made of wood, the best option would be treatment with bleach solution. 
It must be prepared in advance; approximately 300-400 grams of lime must be diluted in a bucket of clean water, stirred thoroughly and left for five to six hours. This solution can also be used to treat the surface of the greenhouse and cover the wooden frame (which will also protect it from wood pests). After disinfection with bleach, it is advisable to keep the greenhouse closed for two to three days for greater efficiency.
Well, and, of course, many gardeners are now using more modern methods of combating late blight. This fungicide treatment– systemic drugs that affect the nervous system of pests, thereby neutralizing them. 
Often used for disinfecting greenhouses made of polycarbonate or glass. Fungicides must be used carefully, without oversaturating the soil with them, as they kill not only harmful, but also beneficial bacteria, which can lead to soil depletion.
Sulfur checker
Fumigating a greenhouse with a sulfur bomb is a proven and quite effective remedy against late blight. This method is affordable and easy to implement. It is enough to set fire to a sulfur bomb inside the greenhouse, tightly close the doors and other existing cracks or openings. For complete processing, one day of exposure is enough.
The disadvantage of this method is that sulfur smoke, taking into account the moisture in the greenhouse room, forms a chemical compound - acid, which negatively affects the metal parts of the structure. If there are any in the greenhouse, they must be protected from the harmful effects of sulfur bombs. For example, generously lubricate with grease or other similar products.
Thuja or juniper - which is better? This question can sometimes be heard in garden centers and markets where these plants are sold. It is, of course, not entirely correct and correct. Well, it’s the same as asking what is better - night or day? Coffee or tea? Woman or man? Surely, everyone will have their own answer and opinion. And yet... What if you approach with an open mind and try to compare juniper and thuja according to certain objective parameters? Let's try it.
Brown Cream of Cauliflower Soup with Crispy Smoked Bacon is a delicious, smooth and creamy soup that both adults and children will love. If you are preparing a dish for the whole family, including kids, then do not add a lot of spices, although many modern children are not at all against spicy flavors. Bacon for serving can be prepared in different ways - fry in a frying pan, as in this recipe, or bake in the oven on parchment for about 20 minutes at 180 degrees.
For some, the time of sowing seeds for seedlings is a long-awaited and pleasant chore, for others it is a difficult necessity, and others wonder whether it would be easier to buy ready-made seedlings on the market or from friends? Be that as it may, even if you give up growing vegetables, you will probably still have to sow something. These include flowers, perennials, conifers and much more. A seedling is still a seedling, no matter what you sow.
A lover of moist air and one of the most compact and rare orchids, pafinia is a real star for most orchid growers. Its flowering rarely lasts longer than a week, but it can be an unforgettable sight. You want to look at the unusual striped patterns on the huge flowers of a modest orchid endlessly. In indoor culture, pafinia is rightly ranked among the difficult-to-grow species. It became fashionable only with the spread of interior terrariums.
Pumpkin ginger marmalade is a warming sweet that can be made almost all year round. Pumpkin keeps for a long time - sometimes I manage to save a few vegetables until summer, fresh ginger and lemons are always available these days. Lemon can be replaced with lime or orange to create different flavors - variety in sweets is always nice. The finished marmalade is placed in dry jars; it can be stored at room temperature, but it is always healthier to prepare fresh products.
In 2014, the Japanese company Takii seed introduced petunia with a striking petal color - salmon-orange. Based on associations with the bright colors of the southern sunset sky, the unique hybrid was named African Sunset. Needless to say, this petunia instantly won the hearts of gardeners and was in great demand. But in the last two years, the curiosity has suddenly disappeared from store windows. Where did the orange petunia go?
Our family loves sweet peppers, so we plant them every year. Most of the varieties that I grow have been tested by me for more than one season; I cultivate them constantly. I also try to try something new every year. Pepper is a heat-loving plant and quite whimsical. Varietal and hybrid varieties of tasty and productive sweet peppers, which grow well for me, will be discussed further. I live in central Russia.
Meat cutlets with broccoli in bechamel sauce are a great idea for a quick lunch or dinner. Start by preparing the mince and at the same time heat 2 liters of water to a boil to blanch the broccoli. By the time the cutlets are fried, the cabbage will be ready. All that remains is to collect the ingredients in a frying pan, season with sauce and bring to readiness. Broccoli needs to be cooked quickly to preserve its bright green color, which, when cooked for a long time, either fades or the cabbage turns brown.
Home floriculture is not only a fascinating process, but also a very troublesome hobby. And, as a rule, the more experience a grower has, the healthier his plants look. What should those who do not have experience do, but want to have indoor plants at home - not elongated, stunted specimens, but beautiful and healthy ones that do not cause a feeling of guilt with their fading? For beginners and flower growers who do not have much experience, I will tell you about the main mistakes that are easy to avoid.
Lush cheesecakes in a frying pan with banana-apple confiture - another recipe for everyone’s favorite dish. To prevent cheesecakes from falling off after cooking, remember a few simple rules. Firstly, only fresh and dry cottage cheese, secondly, no baking powder or soda, thirdly, the thickness of the dough - you can sculpt from it, it is not tight, but pliable. A good dough with a small amount of flour can only be obtained from good cottage cheese, and here again see the “firstly” point.
It is no secret that many drugs from pharmacies have migrated to summer cottages. Their use, at first glance, seems so exotic that some summer residents are perceived with hostility. At the same time, potassium permanganate is a long-known antiseptic that is used in both medicine and veterinary medicine. In plant growing, a solution of potassium permanganate is used both as an antiseptic and as a fertilizer. In this article we will tell you how to properly use potassium permanganate in the garden.
Pork meat salad with mushrooms is a rural dish that can often be found on a holiday table in the village. This recipe is with champignons, but if you have the opportunity to use wild mushrooms, be sure to cook it this way, it will be even tastier. You don’t need to spend a lot of time preparing this salad - put the meat in a pan for 5 minutes and another 5 minutes for slicing. Everything else happens practically without the participation of the cook - the meat and mushrooms are boiled, cooled, and marinated.
Cucumbers grow well not only in a greenhouse or conservatory, but also in open ground. Typically, cucumbers are sown from mid-April to mid-May. Harvesting in this case is possible from mid-July to the end of summer. Cucumbers cannot tolerate frost. That's why we don't sow them too early. However, there is a way to bring their harvest closer and taste the juicy beauties from your garden at the beginning of summer or even in May. It is only necessary to take into account some of the features of this plant.
Polyscias is an excellent alternative to classic variegated shrubs and woody ones. The elegant round or feathery leaves of this plant create a strikingly festive curly crown, and its elegant silhouettes and rather modest character make it an excellent candidate for the role of the largest plant in the house. Larger leaves do not prevent it from successfully replacing Benjamin and Co. ficus. Moreover, polyscias offers much more variety.