The fritillaria flower is called hazel grouse because the petals of most species of these plants are speckled with small specks, like those of the bird of the same name. Growing and caring for hazel grouse is possible both in the garden and at home, however, independent propagation of these plants is very difficult: the bulbs practically do not produce children, and when dividing, germination is too slow.

What does a bulbous hazel grouse look like (with photo)

The bulbous flower hazel grouse or fritillaria (Fritillaria) belongs to the Liliaceae family. These plants have been known in culture since the Middle Ages. About 100 species of hazel grouse, tall and short, are distributed in the temperate zone of the northern hemisphere, but their main habitat is Asia Minor.

This genus is perennial herbaceous plants, numbering about 150 species, with a bulb consisting of several wide, fleshy scales. The bulbs themselves are renewed annually, since the plant has a very short growing season and is considered a typical ephemeroid. The stem contains numerous, narrow-linear or oblong-lanceolate leaves, while sometimes the bracts are spirally twisted, but mostly erect.

As you can see in the photo, fritillaria flowers are located at the top of the stem:

The flowers are drooping, rather large, bright yellow, white or red. The flat, numerous seeds of the plant are in a hexagonal box. Basically, plants live well in fertile, loose soil, in partial shade, or in open sunny areas, reproducing in all ways.

Types of hazel grouse and photos of flowers

Russian hazel grouseFritillaria ruthenica Wikstr.

Perennial herbaceous bulbous plant, up to 40 cm tall. The bulb is up to 1 cm in diameter, flattened, consists of a bottom, one storage scale and two membranous scales. The stem is straight, thin, leafy from the second third.

Leaves number 11–19, opposite or alternate, slightly enveloping, linear, acute, 6–9 cm long and 3–5 mm wide. The upper leaves are opposite, thread-like, close together, with a thin tendril-shaped twisted apex. With them the hazel grouse clings to other plants, getting additional support to support the weight of large flowers and set fruits.

This hazel grouse has ordinary flowers, 1–4, large, drooping, bell-shaped. The perianth is corolla-shaped, brownish-purple on the outside, with a dark, unclear checkerboard pattern, yellow on the inside. The fruit is a capsule.

It grows on steppe slopes and bottoms of ravines and ravines, along the edges of steppe oak forests and shrubs. The plant mainly uses atmospheric moisture, since its bulb with adventitious roots is located in the uppermost horizon. Early cessation of vegetation and transition to a dormant state are an adaptation to withstand drought. Prefers humus-rich, fertile soils. In forest-steppe and steppe it is found mainly on leached chernozems, often growing on chalk and calcareous substrates (calciophil). Blooms in May. The flowers are pollinated by the wind. Propagated by seeds and daughter bulbs.

Pay attention to the photo - fritillary flowers of this species are one of the most decorative.

Dagan hazel grouseFritillaria dagana Turcz. ex Trautv.

A species of herbaceous plants of the genus Ryabchik. Perennial plant, herbaceous bulbous, 20 - 35 cm high. The bulb is round, consists of several small scales. Stems are whorled. The stem leaves are oblong-lanceolate, up to 8 cm long, rounded at the base, collected in one whorl and located in the upper half of the stem. The tepals are up to 4 cm long, brownish-violet on the outside, yellowish on the inside.

It grows mainly in meadows and grassy slopes of the mountain forest belt.

Mikhailovsky's hazel grouse.

A low plant, the stem length does not exceed 20 cm. main feature, which is worth noting when describing the flowers of this species of hazel grouse, are beautiful two-color buds; they have a bright yellow-violet color.

Checkered hazel grouse.

Original with its “chess” flower. As a rule, one flower (rarely 2-3) with a characteristic pattern on the petals blooms on an erect stem in April-May. The plant dies in June. The bulb consists of several white scales. The fruit is a capsule with flattened seeds. Homeland - Central Europe. This is an endangered species of frittilaria flower and is therefore protected by law. A number of varieties have been developed, for example: ‘Aphrodite’ with white flowers, ‘Charon’ with very dark flowers, ‘Poseidon’ with an expressive checkered pattern, and others.

GrouseF. pallidiflora schrenk.

Taller than the previous species - reaches 50 cm in height, its bulbs are larger. The stem is densely covered with leaves, and from the axil upper leaves in April, 3-9 bell-shaped yellowish flowers appear on short stalks. The bulbs are buried to a depth of 10 cm.

Persian hazel grouse.

One of the most heat-loving varieties. Common cultivar is Ivory Bell with an unusual color of the petals - they are yellow-green in color, sometimes with a lemon tint.

Yellow hazel grouse.

A plant with bright yellow large buds, visible from afar. This stunted look, stem height does not exceed 30 cm.

These photos show what different types of fritillary flowers look like:

Growing hazel grouse (fritillaria) in the garden: planting and care in open ground

All types of hazel grouse can be used not only for growing in flower beds, but also for decorating alpine slides or planting in groups on borders along paths. They look just great, especially because they bloom when there are no others in the garden yet. bright colors. By choosing several varieties of hazel grouse, you can experiment with color shades buds.

Hazel grouse is a very spectacular bulbous plant that is very easy to care for. Stems with leaves appear very early, as soon as the snow melts. When growing and caring for hazel grouse in the garden, keep in mind that the stems are not afraid of frost, but if the buds have already appeared, the plant must be insulated with lutrasil, placing light greenhouse arcs over it, otherwise the hazel grouse will not bloom.

The hazel grouse flower is very unpretentious in care. Nothing will stop him from growing and developing, even if no one pays attention to him. However, if you put some effort into growing this plant, you will get a real miracle on your site.

When planting and caring for fritillaria in open ground, first of all, provide the plant appropriate place residence, which should be semi-shaded and protected from the wind. Then offer him additional nutrition - it is simply necessary for high-quality growth and flowering.

When caring for hazel grouse, the flower will be grateful for any type of feeding, except foliar feeding, which can cause leaf burns. Like any plant, the hazel grouse takes care of its offspring and a significant part of its strength and nutrients spends on the formation of seed pods and seeds to its detriment. If you do not plan to get seeds from the plant, do not force it to waste energy on the formation of seed pods and seeds - remove the ovaries immediately after the petals fall. In this case, the bulb will receive more nutrition and will form larger and healthier. This means that next year the plant will be in excellent shape.

As shown in the photo, after planting and caring for hazel grouse, the soil between the plants needs to be mulched:

This will protect the roots from drying out and overheating. hot weather and will provide the necessary aeration. Young shoots of hazel grouse, like mature plant, are quite frost-resistant and can safely tolerate light frosts down to -5 °C. Don't be alarmed if you see their frostbitten and drooping appearance - as soon as the sun warms up, the plants will return to normal and continue to grow.

However, if the winter turns out to be little snow and cold, it is still better to do winter shelter your pets. Spruce spruce branches, reeds, reeds, straw or other material that will not cake and retain a sufficient amount of air are quite suitable for this. The coating layer must be at least 30 cm. You can remove the cover in early spring when the plant begins to grow.

To grow hazel grouse, as professional gardeners advise, in June, when the ground part of the flower turns yellow and dies, you need to dig up the bulbs. Why do they do this? It’s very simple: as soon as the plant enters the dormant phase, which lasts until the end of August, the bulb’s resistance to infection decreases sharply and there is a risk of losing it. Annual digging and subsequent replanting, in addition, will allow the newly formed bulbs to receive the maximum possible amount of nutrients from the soil in a new place.

After removing the bulb from the soil, it is necessary to peel it and rinse it warm water remaining soil, disinfect for 20–30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, cut off, if necessary, detected foci of the disease, sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal and keep on fresh air until the cut areas are dry. Bulbs stored for storage should be inspected weekly.

Grouse bulbs are stored in a dry, well-ventilated area at a temperature not exceeding +30 °C. The storage period lasts from June to the end of August.

How to plant and grow hazel grouse flowers

Before planting hazel grouse flowers, by the end of August they prepare the soil and a place for planting rested bulbs. The soil should be nutritious, loose, with a sufficient amount of coarse river sand and humus at the rate of 10–15 kg per 1 m2. In addition, the soil should be well-drained because the plant does not like waterlogging.

Planting hazel grouse flower bulbs in the ground begins in September-October, planting depth is at least 25 cm for large and 15-20 cm for small bulbs, children are planted to a depth of 8-10 cm. Planting density is 30 cm. The planting process is completed covering the bulbs for the winter.

When planting hazel grouse at the end of September - beginning of October on a layer fertile soil at least 20 cm is added from above river sand under the bulb, which is recommended to be planted on its side. No matter how you plant it, the entire bulb should be covered in sand. High-moor peat is poured on top of the sand, diluted by a third of the volume with river sand with the addition of ash. The height of the peat should be approximately 2-3 times the height of the bulb. That is, the planting depth is approximately 20 cm, and the distance between plants is about 40 cm.

This plant looks beautiful when planted alone, in a mixborder, or when planted in a group. The hazel grouse does not need to be fed or watered if the soil is fertile enough. It practically does not get sick and is not damaged by pests.

Planting and caring for hazel grouse in open ground near shallow-rooted tree species is not recommended. They do not live long, so they are imprisoned with them ground cover plants. They are kept in one place for several years. When transplanting, when the plant has completed its life cycle, the bulbs are dug up and placed in peat so that they do not dry out. You need to dig carefully so as not to damage the bulb - otherwise it will open access to pathogenic microbes.

The most reliable and affordable way Reproduction of hazel grouse - reproduction by dividing the bulb. This is a fairly simple method, although slow. We already know that by the end of the season the mother bulb is divided into two daughter bulbs, which are transplanted into new soil in the fall.

The next year, these bulbs produce full-fledged plants that can bloom and divide the mother bulb into two daughter bulbs.

Since hazel grouse bulbs produce babies very rarely, propagation by them is problematic, but possible.

Propagation by seeds also makes it possible to obtain seedlings, however, not all plants produce seed pods, even with artificial pollination. In addition, plants grown from seeds will have to wait eight years for flowering.

At home, fritillaria are planted in September to a depth of 15 cm in large pots with nutritious soil and, without watering, they are installed in a cool room (with soil cultivation they are not dug up annually). In December, the pots are brought into a room with a temperature of 10-12° and watering begins. In winter, plants can be placed closer to the warmth, and when flower stalks appear, they can be placed on the windowsill away from the radiator. Hazel grouse bloom in February-March. Faded bulbs are stored in pots without removing them from the ground or watering them.

The video “Planting and caring for hazel grouse flowers” ​​shows how to grow these plants:

The plant reproduces mainly using bulbs. The bulb of the plant consists of a pair of large expanded scales, which are renewed every year. The bulbs do not have protective scales, therefore, you need to treat them carefully when planting.

The shoots of the plant are covered with narrow oblong leaves, the arrangement of the leaves is random. The plant produces 3-4 flowers on one shoot, but there are also single ones. The shape of the flower resembles a large bell. The color of the inflorescences, depending on the variety, is orange, lilac, scarlet or light.

The hazel grouse is an ephemeroid flower; on each leaf base there is a nectary inside, round, oval or triangular in shape. After flowering, the fruit appears; it is a seed capsule, like a hexagon.

Varieties of imperial hazel grouse

Within the boundaries of this one species, several varieties of flowers can be distinguished. For example, the Imperial Raddeana hazel grouse is a very hardy flower that can be successfully grown in even the most unfavorable climate. Its creamy-yellow, large, bell-shaped, drooping flowers are collected in 2-7 pieces in a racemose inflorescence. This hazel grouse blooms for 14-16 days.

Or another one - “Imperial Rubra”. This plant is only up to 60cm high, but its brick-red flowers reach quite large sizes - 4cm x 6.5cm.

One of the longest flowering varieties is the imperial hazel grouse “Strip-Beauty”. It usually blooms at the end of April and blooms until the beginning of June with large golden flowers with bright red stripes.

The Garland Star variety is also popular. Its large, stable stem bears a luxurious crown of bright orange flowers.

And the variety “Imperial Lutea” has flowers of a very unusual shade: yellow with a white border, which gradually becomes green and then purple.

What can I say: all varieties of imperial hazel grouse are distinguished by their extraordinary beauty.

Methods for breeding imperial hazel grouse

The plant can be propagated in two ways:

1. Vegetatively or by dividing the bulbs.

2.Seeds.


Dividing hazel grouse bulbs

Planting material for children is dug up at the end of June, while the foliage of the plant has not yet completely dried. Most often, during the season, the mother bulb grows and forms one or two baby bulbs. They will need to be separated and grown within two years.

The daughter bulbs are easily separated. After this, they are disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and stored for two to three weeks in a well-ventilated, dry room with an air temperature no higher than +30C. During this time, the children will give roots and shoots. Since they do not have protective scales, they must be handled with extreme caution. It is necessary to ensure that the baby bulbs do not dry out, otherwise they will not germinate.

To help the flower form a baby, after flowering the bulbs are dug up and the healthiest ones are selected. A scraping with a diameter of 2 cm is made on them with a sharp sterile knife. After the wound has dried, planting material placed in dry sand and stored in a dry room. By the end of summer, the bulb with regrown roots is treated with a fungicidal solution and planted in open ground So that all the flower’s energy is spent on the formation of children, the ovaries that appear on it are removed.

Reproduction of imperial hazel grouse by seeds

The seeds ripened in a dried boll of the plant are sown in open ground immediately after collection. Since hazel grouse seedlings will grow and develop within two years, the soil for them must be nutritious. The planting depth should be approximately one centimeter. For better drainage, the distance between plants should be 10x10 cm. The top of the soil is sprinkled with a two-centimeter layer of peat.

The first seedlings will appear only next year. Bulbs at the age of two years are dug up and stored in a dry room during the summer. Such storage is a rather labor-intensive process, since some of the planting material may rot. Moisture-resistant hazel grouse varieties can be grown in open ground for up to four years. During this time, the plant will get stronger and begin to bloom.

Planting imperial hazel grouse

It is produced from late summer to mid-October. Best term planting of hazel grouse - from mid-August to mid-September. Then they will certainly bloom next year.

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Hazel grouse bulbs are covered with juicy, unprotected scales. Their damage and improper storage conditions lead to drying out of the bulbs or the appearance of mold, which can cause them to die. This probability increases even more if the hazel grouse are planted incorrectly, for example, too wet, cold soil can cause the bulbs to rot. Therefore, it is better to plant them on a small hill where there is no stagnant water. You can make such an artificial embankment yourself.

Prepare a place for hazel grouse in advance - half a month before planting. Dig up the soil, add ripe organic matter and some mineral fertilizers. Next, for each hazel grouse bulb, dig a hole 30 cm deep and wide. Mix the dug soil with compost and horn shavings, add to the holes. Fill the bottom with coarse sand. As a result, the hole for a large bulb of short hazel grouse should be 12 cm deep, and for tall ones - about 20 cm. Make the distance between the holes 30 cm.

Before planting, disinfect hazel grouse bulbs (for example, in a solution of potassium permanganate), then powder with crushed charcoal. Place them sideways in the planting hole to avoid moisture accumulating between the scales of the bulbs and sprinkle them with sand. Then fill the recesses with light substrate. Mulch the ground over the bulbs with peat for the winter and cover with leaves.

This is how you need to prepare and plant the Imperial hazel grouse. You can see its crown-like flower at the end of April. Do not forget in the middle of this month to remove the foliage and some of the peat from the place where the hazel grouse bulbs were planted so that its stem can sprout unhindered.

Caring for the imperial hazel grouse

Gardeners often ask the question: “Why doesn’t the imperial hazel grouse bloom?” In fact, for hazel grouse to bloom, several conditions must be met:

Caring for imperial hazel grouse in open ground is the same as caring for lilies. Twice a season the plant is fed with complex mineral fertilizers. The first feeding is done in the second half of April, the second - after the plants flower. At this time, the plant grows a bulb.

Water even when the plant has bloomed, 1-2 times a month. Stop watering when the green part of the plant withers.

Dig out the imperial hazel grouse carefully so as not to damage the bulb. There is no need to wait until the above-ground part has completely dried out; during this time the bulb may rot, and it will be more difficult to find a planting site. The approximate time for digging is at the end of June - beginning of July. During the growing season, the bulb grows and produces babies - small onions.

Diseases and pests of the imperial hazel grouse

If you don't follow the right one agrotechnical care, then even a plant such as hazel grouse can suffer from various diseases and pests. It may rot if the bulbs are not properly cared for or if their storage conditions are violated. In this case, you should remove all affected areas and transplant the bulb to a new location. The removal site must be disinfected with potassium permanganate and sprinkled with crushed coal or ash. Even if the hazel grouse is healthy, it still needs to be replanted every 2-4 years to reduce the risk of disease. It is also important to avoid freezing, otherwise the hazel grouse will die. Do not stuff hazel grouse flowers when planting and caring big amount nutrients. And you should be wary of pests such as:

  • Lily beetle. Its body is red and its head is black.
  • Onion cracker. This beetle is completely red.

It is the larvae of these beetles that cause irreparable harm. The larvae can be found at the bottom of the foliage. To get rid of pests, the plant must be treated with a fungicide or removed from the leaves yourself with a damp sponge and soap suds. Now, knowing all the features of choice seed material you can grow hazel grouse and its correct planting, methods of reproduction, caring for the plant and what pests and diseases it is exposed to without much difficulty Imperial hazel grouse.

Royal hazel grouse is a flower, the cultivation of which is not easy for everyone the first time, but if you follow it completely simple rules planting and care you can decorate your garden plot these unusual spring flowers.

Royal hazel grouse (imperial) is a fairly tall bulbous plant that blooms in spring. The duration of flowering cannot be called too long - up to 3 weeks, but these flowers will be among the first to decorate the garden plot after winter dormancy.

The royal hazel grouse is an ornamental flowering plant, reaching a height of 150 cm depending on the variety. It has a fairly hard, unbending stem on which bell-shaped flowers are formed, and above them rise extra leaves, which resemble a crown. The lower part of the plant is also covered with smooth narrow leaves about 20 cm long and the leaf blade is 10 cm wide.

Varieties

The royal hazel grouse does not have a wide range of flower colors, usually their shades vary from yellow to red-orange. There are also two varieties that differ in the decorativeness of their leaves. The most widespread varieties of royal hazel grouse are:


It is a short representative of the royal hazel grouse and grows only 60 cm in height. The flowers are orange with pronounced purple veins. It blooms earlier than other representatives of this type of hazel grouse, so when growing this variety there may be a problem with flowers freezing during night spring frosts.

Rubra


The most common variety. Characterized by orange-brick color of flowers.

Lutea


This royal hazel grouse grows up to 1 m in height, but there is also the Maxima Lutea variety, which boasts a truly royal height - 120 cm. The color of the petals of these varieties is the same - light yellow with a green pattern.


The flowers are bright orange with light purple veins.


The flowers are bright orange and the petals are decorated with purple veins.


It grows up to 1 m in height. The flowers are a very beautiful pale orange color, decorated with a reddish pattern and yellow edges. Thanks to such unusual colors, the variety is very popular.


It differs in that it has bulbs of the smallest size compared to other varieties of royal hazel grouse. The color of the flowers is dark red.


The flowers are red-orange. The variety is distinguished by the presence of a golden-yellow border on the leaves of the plant.


The flowers are also red-orange in color, and the border on the leaves is silvery-white.


Direct planting of hazel grouse bulbs in open ground is carried out exclusively in the fall. However, there are several cases when hazel grouse can be planted in the spring.

Bulbs in spring

In the spring, hazel grouse can be planted in the ground only if the bulbs were planted in large pots filled with nutrient substrate in mid-March. Planting bulbs sprouted in this way onto the plot is recommended after return frosts. This method is suitable for those who purchased branch bulbs too late in the fall and did not have time to plant them before the onset of frost.

Seeds

You can also plant hazel grouse seeds in spring, which appear in boxes after they bloom. They are sown immediately after collection, without storing. Hazel grouse seeds are planted to a depth of 1 cm, using a 10x10 cm planting pattern. It is advisable to put a 2 cm thick layer of light high-moor peat on top. Shoots will appear only next year, in the spring.

However, in this case, you will have to wait a very long time for flowering - at least 7 years. In order for the royal hazel grouse bulb to bloom, it must be at least 7 cm in size.

Bulbs at the age of two years can be dug up annually to protect them from rot. It is possible that during their storage some of them will dry out. Resistant varieties royal hazel grouse to the conditions high humidity can be left in the ground and planted only at the age of 4 years.


Caring for planted hazel grouse begins in March-April, when the snow cover has finally melted. The first thing you need to do is get rid of the old autumn shelter, that is, a layer of humus or peat. Further, caring for royal hazel grouse during the growing season consists of timely watering, fertilizing and tying the growing stems to installed pegs.

Watering

Watering hazel grouse should be abundant and regular if the spring-summer period is quite dry. In this case, it is advisable to put a layer of mulch on the ground to prevent it from drying out and cracking. Excessive watering Flowers are not recommended at all, as the bulbs may rot. After flowering, watering is reduced to 1…2 times a month, depending on weather conditions.

It is necessary to continue to water the faded hazel grouse plantings so that the bulbs, while in the ground, do not dry out. After each watering, weeding must be carried out; this operation is greatly facilitated if there is mulch on the soil surface. It is impossible to loosen the plantings, since the roots of the royal hazel grouse lie close to the surface of the earth.

Top dressing

Hazel grouse are fed three times per season:

  • first time in a period active growth and plant development (late April),
  • the second - during flowering,
  • the third - after flowering.

For the first feeding you need to make a mixture of complex minerals and organic fertilizers, for example, add 1 tbsp to a bucket of humus. nitrophoskas and fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants. This fertilizing is applied in dry form, followed by watering the plantings.

During flowering, it is necessary to feed the hazel grouse with phosphorus-potassium mineral fertilizers in granules, also scattering them around the plantings, and then spilling them.

The third feeding consists of adding superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Foliar feeding by spraying is not recommended, as this will result in spotting on the leaves, which will negatively affect the decorative appearance of the royal hazel grouse.

When it comes to pruning and pruning, there are several factors to consider. If the hazel grouse is intended for cutting, then the stem is cut off, always leaving a few pieces of leaves so that the bulb can continue to grow. Also, in order for the bulb to gain mass, the seed pods will need to be removed. Hazel grouse bulbs are dug up in mid-to-late June, when the above-ground part turns yellow.

Planting in autumn, when to plant


Purchased or previously dug up royal hazel grouse bulbs are planted in the ground in the fall. Depending on weather conditions in climatic zone, where a specific site is located, the planting dates may shift.

For example, V southern regions with a warm, favorable climate and mild winters, bulbs can be planted in September-October, and in the Urals and Siberia with a harsh climate, it is recommended to plant a little earlier - from late August to early September. The bulbs planted during this time will have time to adapt and take root in the soil, so they will not freeze.

The technology for planting royal hazel grouse is similar to the technology for planting bulbous flowers and includes several operations.

Selecting a planting site and preparing the soil

In order for the royal hazel grouse to please its spring bloom, it is necessary to properly organize its landing site. These flowers prefer sunny, well-lit places, but can also grow in light openwork shade. The planting site must be well protected from the winds, otherwise during the growing season there is a risk that the tall stem of the flower will break.

A couple of weeks before planting the bulbs, it is necessary to prepare the planting site. To do this, dig a hole into which a layer of sand and drainage (crushed stone, broken brick, etc.) is poured. This will help protect the delicate hazel grouse bulbs from rotting during heavy autumn rains, as well as during intense snow thawing in the spring. Sand will not allow the top layer to fall down, and drainage will ensure high-quality outflow excess water, and it will not stagnate. The remaining space of the pit must be filled with a nutritious mixture of turf soil with peat and humus. The depth of the pit for planting royal hazel grouse is usually 40 cm.


Since hazel grouse is a bulbous flower, it is planted in exactly the same way as other representatives of this group, that is, to a depth of 2...3 times the diameter of the bulb itself. Since the royal hazel grouse bulb is quite large in size, the depth landing hole is 25...30 cm. The distance between adjacent bulbs should be at least 25 cm. At the same time, each of them is lowered into the ground, the roots are straightened.

Some gardeners plant hazel grouse planting material sideways or at an angle of 45 0, sprinkling them with sand. This planting method allows you to organize good protection tender bare bulbs of hazel grouse without scales from the appearance of rot.

After all the specimens are sitting in their places, they are covered with earth, and a layer of humus mixed with ash, the thickness of which is 15 cm, is placed on top. During planting, the bulbs of this plant must be handled very carefully and try to avoid them under any circumstances. damage. It is better to treat them immediately before placing them in the ground with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or sprinkle them with crushed coal.

Also, in parallel with planting the bulbs, it is recommended to immediately stick pegs into the ground, to which the plant stems will subsequently be tied. It is best to use bamboo or wooden sticks, such that they rise above ground level when installed by half a meter.

If you install pegs in the spring, there is a high risk of damaging the bulb itself in the ground, so you should take care of future gartering of the stems in the fall.

How to plant imperial hazel grouse bulbs: video

What to do,

if the hazel grouse does not bloom:

There can be two reasons for such an unpleasant situation: making mistakes when planting or caring for the royal hazel grouse or small size planting material. For example, due to the fact that the gardener himself sometimes makes irreparable mistakes, flower bulbs can be seriously damaged, rot in the ground or freeze out in winter.

If the hazel grouse does not bloom, the bulbs need to be dug up and carefully examined. Sometimes novice gardeners acquire bulbs that are too small and do not match the type of hazel grouse. In the case of the royal hazel grouse, depending on the variety, the bulb ready for flowering should be at least 5...6 cm in diameter.

Why hazel grouse don't bloom: video


In general, by the time of flowering, the tall stem of the royal hazel grouse becomes very rigid and powerful. A correctly planted flower in a place protected from the wind is unlikely to break without outside help. A high risk of damage to the hazel grouse's arrow occurs during its growth, so it is recommended to tie it to a peg pre-installed when planting the bulbs.

If the arrow still breaks, then you should not naively wait for the plant to bloom; however, you should continue to care for it mandatory so that the bulb grows over the season and increases in size. Next year you can expect flowering again.

Royal hazel grouse - spectacular flower, which will decorate any flower bed.

04 Aug

Hazel grouse - fritillaria flower (Fritillari)

Garden hazel grouse Fritillaria (Fritillari) - a spring crop that belongs to the group of bulbous primroses, allows you to effectively decorate your garden plot at a time when the main crops are just preparing to bloom.

The fritillaria flower is one of the exotics that can surprise neighbors personal plot. The rules for growing it are simple. The annual autumn planting of Fritillaria hazel grouse on the site and the organization of care for the plantings will lead to the fact that next spring these representatives of the lilies will present abundant and colorful flowering. Today, fritillaria is widespread in all regions of our country. On this page, Fritillarii presents some of the most popular species and varieties. This will allow you to choose suitable plants for your site.
MATERIAL CONTENTS:

Look what fritillaria looks like in the photo, where hazel grouse are shown in all the variety of bud colors:


garden flower hazel grouse or fritillaria has a huge amount variations in the color of the buds and the shapes of the formation of the crown from them - look at some examples in the photo above.

Beyond the complex scientific name Fritillaria cover the well-known garden hazel grouse. This is one of the spring flowers, which during the flowering period is similar to lilies and tulips. In Russian floriculture this is a very popular garden culture, and even despite the fact that fritillaria comes from hot countries - Afghanistan and Iran, it easily takes root in even Middle lane Russia, subject to proper care. In the wild, hazel grouse are often found in the warm, sunny meadows of the Himalayan mountains, as well as in some tropical areas of the Southern Hemisphere.



Royal hazel grouse flower: growing, planting and care (with photo)

The royal fritillary flower or fritillaria belongs botanically to the Liliaceae family. Some scientists say that this is one of the most complex plants, regarding its scientific classification. This is due to the large intrageneric diversity of varietal and species groups. In total, there are about 100 species of fritillaria, 6 of which are actively used in gardening in our country.

The Latin name for hazel grouse comes from a word that has a literal translation “ Chess board"- some species have flower petals of unusually shaped color, as can be seen in the photo of a fritillaria flower below:


All representatives of the genus of royal hazel grouse are perennial bulbous plants. Before you start growing the royal hazel grouse flower, you should understand that it root system represented by a corm that can reach impressive sizes. The stem is dense, stable, erect, and most often leafy. The shoots reach a height of 10 to 200 cm (depending on the species group and variety). The leaves on them are arranged oppositely or are collected in basal and apical whorls. At the top of the stem, linear leaf plates form a green crown and curl intricately in a spiral towards the end. Leaves have a vital function for the plant - they collect moisture (dew and rain) and direct it to the rhizome.

Flowers after autumn planting royal hazel grouse are formed in the spring and stay on the plant for 30-35 days. The flowering period is observed either at the end of May and lasts until mid-June. The fritillaria flower looks like a drooping large bell of a brick-red hue. They are formed in the axils of the leaf plates of the apical rosette and are traditionally collected in inflorescences of 6 pieces. There are various colors of buds: white, purple, yellow, red and others. The size of the flower depends on the type of natural or hybrid variety.

Hazel grouse are ephemeroids - plants that have a very fast growing season. They completely fade by the beginning of summer, and closer to last numbers June the flower sheds its leaves. The normal state of rest for fritillaria is when the bulb is underground. Proper care of the royal hazel grouse will allow you to lay a large number of flower buds in bulbs.

In gardening, royal hazel grouse are actively used as a natural insecticide. Its unpleasant, noticeable aroma repels some pests, in particular small insects. The variety of species and varieties of the plant and its practical properties often make it a favorite garden primrose.

Look how beautifully the royal hazel grouse blooms - the photo shows exquisite specimens:



Royal crown flower or Imperial hazel grouse: photo, planting and care

Of all 100 plant species, not all are actively used in Russian floriculture. The most popular is the Imperial hazel grouse or the royal crown flower, which gardeners love for its bright flowering and big sizes the flower itself in inflorescences. The culture has been known for several centuries and enjoys success in cultivation, like primrose in many countries. The Imperial Fritillary flower is a perennial with large fleshy bulbs from which a stem grows up to 2 meters high. The leaves are collected in two rosettes. Concentrated in the root zone sheet plates lanceolate in appearance, and at the top of the stems there are narrow leaves that form a crown, as shown in the photo below.

The flowers have a structure similar to the shape of a bell. They are drooping and most often can gradually turn towards the light. First, buds are formed on the stems, lowered down, which, over time, unfold and become horizontal to the shoot, and then turn the stigma towards the sky. At this time, intensive care of the Imperial hazel grouse flower is required; it consists of cutting off regular watering and adding mineral fertilizers to the soil to form a full-fledged bulb.

The inflorescence contains 6 bright, brick-red flowers. Within 2 weeks, after germination in the spring, an adult plant quickly forms. After flowering, the imperial hazel grouse forms large (the size of bells) seed pods, which crack but do not scatter planting material. Imperial hazel grouse flowers are planted mainly with bulbs in the autumn months - September-October.

Next in the photo, the imperial hazel grouse flower is presented in different phases of its active flowering; it is suggested to look at the numerous forms of buds and their colors:



Fritillaria "Aurora", "Rubra" and "Maxima Lutea"

The following varieties of this species are often very popular in floriculture:

  • fritillaria "Aurora" - brick-red flowers with an orange tint;
  • fritillaria "Rubra" - fritillaria with dark, almost burgundy buds. The plant is medium-sized, up to 50-60 cm high;
  • tall “Rubra Maxima” - in comfortable conditions it can grow up to 2 meters in height;
  • fritillaria "Maxima Lutea" - large yellow inflorescences of 6 buds. Fritillaria maxima lutea plant grows up to 150 cm;
  • "Lutea" is less tall, up to 50-80 cm in height.

Another type of hazel grouse has decorative value - Mikhailovsky's fritillary. This plant is considered one of the most beautiful garden species. The petals of its corolla are brick-brown. A bright yellow ring forms at the end of the bud. The hazel grouse flower gives the impression that it has been dipped a little in paint sunny color. Look at the photo how great this species looks in garden compositions.



Fritillaria "Uva Vulpis" and Meleagris

An unusual bloom is represented by Fritillaria "Uva Vulpis", also known as the Assyrian species. The petals of her flower are colored with outside brown, and inside there is an olive-colored flower. The plants cannot be called tall; the maximum height of specimens is up to 60 cm.


Variegated hazel grouse or Fritillaria meleagris, as well as the Chess species, are one of the popular groups that can be compared in popularity only with the Imperial one. Plant height is from 20 to 40 cm. The varietal form is considered low-growing. On a weakly leafy stem, buds with graphically colored petals form. The most popular varieties:

  1. "Alba" - snow-white flowers;
  2. “Artemius” - emerald-colored petals, checkerboard speckles create the impression of snake skin;
  3. "Mars" - buds of a dark purple hue;
  4. “Saturn” - light square spots on the red-violet surface.

Conditions for planting hazel grouse on a personal plot

When planting hazel grouse on a site, a careful individual approach is required. Each species and even variety has the ability to “remember” the unique conditions of the parent plants, even if it is a hybrid obtained artificially. Before purchasing, do not be afraid and do not hesitate to ask questions about how exactly to grow this or that species and what conditions will be comfortable for it. But, as you know, all fritillaria require minimal effort when planting. Let's discuss some general rules for growing hazel grouse in your garden.

First of all, pay attention to the landing site. It must be with good lighting. Optimally - a place with bright diffused light. In the open sun, the leaves and flowers of hazel grouse fade and dry out quickly. Remember that fritillaria is of Alpine origin. For him, freshness and space are important.

As for the soil, hazel grouse adapt well to absolutely any composition, with the exception of heavy clay soils. Before planting, the soil is dug up and treated with a weak hot solution of manganese to avoid contamination of the bulbs. Plantings are adversely affected by the increased acidity of the soil; if it gives an acidic reaction, then it can be limed during the season. The ideal soil composition for growing fritillaria is loam with a strong drainage system.



Fritillaria bulbs before planting

Before planting, the bulbs are selected by size and felt for rotting areas. If you notice the beginning of decomposition of the tuber, then in case of local damage, this place is cut out with a knife and treated with charcoal or activated crushed charcoal. Rotten fritillaria bulbs are thrown away so that they do not infect other plantings. If you have purchased such material, but it is unlikely that you will be able to get a new one, then you can resort to vertically dividing the corm into several parts.

Royal hazel grouse bulbs are planted directly in open ground in the fall, in early September. The planting material that has begun to form roots is planted even earlier. Large bulbs of the Imperial hazel grouse are laid at a depth of 20-25 cm, small ones at 15-20. If you place planting material close to the surface of the soil, then under the weight of the plant it can “come out” from the ground. Simply put, the hazel grouse will uproot itself.

The distance between plantings also depends on the variety. Large hazel grouse plants should be planted in a 40x50 pattern. Those that do not grow very tall tolerate proximity at a distance of 15-20 cm. Group varietal plantings look good.



Proper care of ephemeroid hazel grouse

The basis for proper care of hazel grouse is the knowledge that these are ephemeroid plants that quickly go into a dormant state. At this time, it is allowed for the bulb to remain underground until frost begins. In the early autumn, the plant is dug up and placed in sawdust or wet sand. Do not allow the bulb to be long time on open air. During the dormant period, in order for the plant to bloom for the next season, you need to warm up the planting material. To do this, the onion placed in sawdust or sand is stored in a room with a temperature of at least 30 degrees. This period takes up to 60 days, after which the temperature is reduced to 20 degrees.

During the active life period, hazel grouse are watered with warm melt water in moderate quantities. It is important to prevent the soil from drying out or, conversely, becoming waterlogged. Some gardeners replant fritillaria every year. This is necessary so that they are more resistant to diseases of various kinds, and the soil has time to be saturated with useful substances. In one season, several fritillary bulbs can use an impressive amount of nutrients.

If you are cutting flowers for decorative bouquets, then be sure to leave part of the stem. If you remove the shoot, the bulb will stop growing and will remain the same size. Also, after this procedure, the plant does not form children.

Fritillaria propagates very easily. The seeds are used fresh, but they can remain viable for a long time. Planting material is sown in the ground or nutrient substrate. The first shoots will appear next year. After 5-6 days, the young plantings die off, but small bulbs remain underground, which are grown and planted permanent places. You can do without this procedure by planting the children directly in the ground.


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Among the tulips and daffodils, the imperial hazel grouse will take worthy place in your garden. Low varieties of imperial hazel grouse are planted in alpine slide, rock garden or rocky garden.
In order for your collection of bulbs to be replenished in the spring, you need to purchase planting material in the fall.
How to choose imperial hazel grouse bulbs
Hazel grouse bulbs have a through hole and can weigh up to 500-1000 g. To grow imperial hazel grouse, the bulbs must be absolutely healthy, i.e. without external signs of rot, mold, cracks, softness and other indicators poor quality goods. The presence of roots is acceptable. The dried residue of last year's shoot, which is located in the center of the hole, does not need to be removed.
Place and soil
To plant imperial hazel grouse, you need a warm, slightly shaded area, protected from drafts and northern winds.
The plant prefers loose, fertile and well-drained soil. Add coarse river sand and humus to the soil at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 sq.m.
Planting imperial hazel grouse
At the beginning of October, dig holes for planting imperial hazel grouse; they should be 3 times larger in size than the bulb itself. Place a layer of sand at the bottom of the hole, then a mixture of soil and manure (1:1). Plant the bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse, water it and forget about it until spring. The distance between large bulbs is 25-30 cm. Planting depth is 20-30 cm. Small bulbs are deepened by 15-20 cm, and children by 8-10 cm. Plant the bulbs straight, not inclined; if the roots are long, carefully spread them out.
Cover the plantings for the winter. In spring, monitor the condition of the soil, not allowing it to dry out. When leaves appear, feed the plants every 2 weeks phosphorus fertilizers until the flowers appear. As soon as the imperial hazel grouse has finished blooming, break off the peduncle so that the plant can further direct its energy to the development of the root system and bulb.
The smell of imperial hazel grouse bulbs will drive away moles.
Digging and storing imperial hazel grouse bulbs
The imperial hazel grouse bulbs are dug up when the leaves turn yellow, in mid-June (there is no need to wait for the stem to dry completely), at the same time as the tulip bulbs. In summer, the bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse and other bulbous species can be easily affected by diseases and pests, so do not delay in harvesting the plants.
Dig up the hazel grouse bulbs carefully. Remove the films from them, wash off the remaining soil if necessary, treat for 5-10 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate and dry. If you hit an onion with a shovel, wash it in a solution of potassium permanganate, dry it in a dark place, cover it with ash and leave it for storage along with the rest of the onions. If there is rot on the bulbs, then scrape it out with a dull knife, treat the wound with iodine or brilliant green, dry with high temperature until a crust forms. Rot can also appear during storage, so inspect the bulbs every week and, if necessary, carry out “surgical intervention”.
Many gardeners wonder whether to dig up imperial hazel grouse bulbs every year. We can definitely say that large bulbs need to be dug up every year and after a year you can dig up small bulbs and children. The reason for digging lies in the formation of the rudiments of future inflorescences and their reproduction.
After digging up the imperial hazel grouse bulbs you can put them in their place Chinese cabbage, so the place will not be empty and for good.
Store hazel grouse bulbs in a dry, dark place so that the temperature in the room during the day is up to 30°C; at higher temperatures, the bulbs will begin to lose moisture. Having sorted and laid out in a single layer in wooden or plastic boxes. At the end of August, the bulbs form roots and a new sprout. Large specimens form 2 sprouts.
Before planting the imperial hazel grouse, it is better to trim the roots. If planting is late, then the roots should be saved and carefully spread out.
Caring for the imperial hazel grouse
An unpretentious plant. However, if you don’t take care of it at all, then don’t expect flowering either.
In snowy winters, adult plants do not require shelter, but in winters with little snow, they need to be covered with spruce branches, straw or reeds with a layer of 25-30 cm. In spring, remove the shelter.
Loosening around the imperial hazel grouse must be done extremely carefully; it is better not to do this at all, since the roots are often located near the surface. Mulching is the best measure for the imperial hazel grouse (the soil needs aeration and moisture).
Fertilize with complex mineral fertilizers. Do not use concentrated foliar fertilizers, as this can lead to leaf burns.
Do not tie up the stems of adult plants, as they are wind-resistant.
Young shoots of hazel grouse are frost-resistant, they are not afraid of spring weather of -5°C, but they can “joke” on you, appearing frostbitten and drooping, causing you to faint. But with the first rays of the sun they are restored and make you happy.
Why doesn't the imperial hazel grouse bloom? Question from newbies
In the fall, I bought imperial hazel grouse and planted it in the garden. I read that for good flowering in summer, the bulbs need to be dug up and warmed up. How to do this correctly and how to protect hazel grouse from pests?
Temperature for hazel grouse it is important during the dormant period, and then only for species that have large bulbs (imperial, Persian). This time begins from the moment the foliage withers until the roots begin to form (late June - July-August) and depends on the weather. If the plant is not dug up, it is important that the soil is well warmed by the sun.
The hazel grouse is not watered and the planting site is covered with dark film. So that the question does not arise, why do large-bulbed hazel grouse not bloom? every year, we answer: it is safer to dig them up every season and warm them up for two to three weeks in the attic or veranda at a temperature of +30-35 degrees, but not under direct sun rays. According to many years of observations, hazel grouse are rarely affected by pests. Treat the bulbs immediately after digging with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, dipping them in it for 5-10 minutes. Then dry.
Reproduction of the imperial hazel grouse
Of course, I want to have a lot of hazel grouse. To do this, you will need to start propagating them: by seeds or vegetatively, by dividing the bulbs.
Bulb division is the easiest way to breed imperial hazel grouse, but we must admit that to obtain large number This kid is the slowest.
At the end of the season, the mother bulb is divided into two, which then can only be replanted and wait for flowering.
Baby hazel grouse gives in small quantities. It will take several years to grow it, so it is worth thinking about the need for this method of reproduction. Hazel grouse bulbs can be artificially stimulated to produce more babies. The peculiarity of hazel grouse bulbs is that on the “wound” it is urgently forms a baby, so by properly wounding the bulb, you can get more babies than would be natural.
After harvesting the bulbs, after 2 weeks, select the strongest ones, disinfect the knife and make 2-3 cuts in the thickest part of the scales in the form of shallow holes with a diameter of 2 cm. Dry the bulbs, immerse them in clean dry sand and move them to a dry place for storage. At the end of August, after the roots have formed, replant them in the ground, having previously treated them with a fungicide (potassium permanganate solution). Remove the bud buds, so that all the strength of the plant is spent on the formation of children. Dig up the bulbs as usual in June. When digging, carefully inspect the ground; the children are so small that you may not notice them.
At seed method reproduction You need to wait 7-8 years for flowering.
Leave 1-2 seed pods and remove the rest. Seed hazel grouse remain green when the rest are already yellow. However, this is not a reason to delay the harvesting of the bulbs. Cut the green stems with seed pods as low as possible and place them in water for 3 weeks (one container of water for one stem). Leave the water and change it every day. Next, remove the stems from the water and place them in a dry, ventilated area. One box contains about 50 seeds. Select high-quality specimens with a clearly visible embryo.
In November - early December, soak the seeds and plant them in boxes with soil, without admixtures of manure and fertilizers (box depth 15-20 cm). Leave the sown seeds of the imperial hazel grouse for the winter in dark room at a temperature of 1-2°C.
In early spring and until summer, take the boxes with flower seedlings out into the open. In June, the above-ground part of the seedlings will dry out, then you will need to remove the bulbs from the soil and place them in clean sand and store them in a room with a temperature of 20°C. Plant such bulbs at the same time as adults (late September - early October), but the planting depth is only 8-10 cm. It is mandatory to cover them for wintering.
You can propagate the imperial hazel grouse sowing seeds directly into the ground. We collected seeds from completely dried seed pods and sown them the same year immediately in loose, fertilized and moderately moist soil (early October). If the area is swampy, be sure to drain it. Sow seeds to a depth of 8-10 cm. Mulch the surface of the soil with humus or peat. The crops are covered for the winter. In spring, shoots appear several centimeters high, so try not to confuse them with spring green grass.



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