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Before you start laying, you need to understand what kind of material it is - cellular concrete, and understand its properties, strengths and weaknesses. This approach will help you use it most effectively.
Insufficient insulation and formation of cold bridges
Lack of attention to cold bridges is a distinctive feature of teams working the old fashioned way. The need to insulate some areas seems unnecessary to the craftsmen. It is in relation to issues of insulation that professionals can be distinguished from low-level specialists.
Bridges of cold - these are areas that have much lower heat transfer resistance than the rest of the structure. It is through them that significant heat loss occurs at home. Places that require additional thermal insulation measures are identified.
Seams. If the rules for laying cellular concrete are not followed, they can become significant cold bridges. Thickness of joints in walls laid using adhesive solutions, should not exceed 2-3 mm.
Armobelt. This is a reinforced concrete belt at the floor level, connecting the walls and giving the fastening additional rigidity. Reinforced concrete is much denser than cellular concrete and has higher thermal conductivity.
Therefore, in the project, the thickness of the armored belt and insulation must be calculated in such a way that it is possible to lay expanded polystyrene or mineral wool on the armored belt and close it from the outside.
Jumpers. They perform the same role as the armored belt and can be installed above window and doorways. They are produced in the form of U-shaped blocks, which are connected along the length, supported from below, and placed inside reinforcement cage and filled with concrete. To insulate the lintel inside it at the outer wall, before pouring the concrete, you need to put insulation. If this element is mounted from ordinary rectangular blocks, then it is insulated in the same way as armored belts.
Recesses. When using concrete elements with grips, the latter will be visible in the corners of the walls. They (as well as chips in the blocks) must be repaired with glue, and not with ordinary cement mortar, since in such a case the “patches” will have high thermal conductivity.
All these insulation measures are relevant when constructing single-layer walls; in two- and three-layer structures, the likelihood of cold bridges appearing is much lower.
Savings on anchoring the interface between external and interior walls
Sometimes contractors are not very responsible about the need to lay anchors when connecting external walls and internal partitions. At the same time, the correct pairing of structures is important not only in matters of stability, but also from the point of view of the formation of cold bridges.
Load-bearing walls of the same level must be made of blocks of the same type, laid on the same mortar. Internal load-bearing partitions are often erected from products 10-15 cm thick simultaneously with external walls and pair them during the construction process.
But it happens that the partitions are laid out after the box at home is ready. This allows them to be built not only from cellular concrete, but also from other masonry materials. In every second or third horizontal seam of the walls that are erected first, install fasteners where the partitions will be located according to the project.
A less reliable, but also acceptable option is screwing the fastening elements to the blocks. At the same time, a rigid connection between the partitions and the ceiling should not be allowed. To do this, an elastic seal 1-2 cm thick is placed on the last row of masonry between it and the ceiling.
I get a lot of questions about choosing wall materials country house, so let’s look at this issue in detail again and draw the conclusion that aerated concrete has no alternatives at all. This is the best material for load-bearing and enclosing structures of buildings of any number of floors. If you want to get a “warm” permanent house, then you simply have no options. And the most important thing is that energy efficient house made of aerated concrete can be used comfortably even if you do not have a connection to the gas main. And all this is possible without additional insulation!
In this article we consider only capital stone houses. Naturally, there is also frame technology construction, but we will consider it in a separate material.
Aerated concrete has made no less a revolution in construction technologies than, for example, geotextiles or extruded polystyrene foam. The history of aerated concrete begins in the 30s of the last century, so the material has already stood the test of time in a wide variety of climatic regions of our planet. It is important to note that not all aerated concrete can be considered energy efficient, so it is very important to pay attention to the actual characteristics from specific manufacturers.
The main negativity that is spreading online is connected to this. Homemade aerated concrete produced in violation of technology will not have sufficient strength and resistance to heat transfer. This means it will not have any advantages compared to ordinary brick. Second important point It is mandatory to follow the technology when working with aerated concrete.
It has long been known that construction in compliance with technology is not only cheaper, but also faster. Unfortunately, many people prefer to violate technology and then heroically overcome the difficulties that arise, losing not only time, but also money. After all, it is obvious that low-quality material used in violation of technology will not lead to anything good.
So let's take mine as an example. own house, which I built in 2012. This is a capital country house on a foundation slab with aerated concrete walls and a monolithic ceiling with a flat (green) roof. It was put into operation in 2014. It is important for any person that the house is inexpensive to build and economical to operate. I'm no exception here. Therefore, the most important criterion when choosing a material for walls is heat transfer resistance. After all, if the wall is “cold”, then I will simply heat the street. And this is excessive energy consumption and cold in the house (in my case, also the lack of main gas plus a limit electrical power, allocated in SNT).
So I chose the best of them all available technologies- a single-layer wall made of YTONG aerated concrete with a density of D400 and a thickness of 375 mm. The masonry was done strictly according to technology with the obligatory sanding of each row and using a special glue for thin-seam masonry (the smaller the thickness of the joint, the less heat loss). Naturally, I additionally insulated the lintels above the windows and door, as well as the perimeter of the monolithic ceiling. I also draw attention to the presence of quarters on the window openings.
From the outside, the wall is simply plastered with 10 mm thick cement heat-insulating plaster and puttied with white cement (I still haven’t found the time to paint the walls).
It’s a similar story inside: the walls are plastered with a thin (6 mm) layer gypsum plaster, plastered and painted. Taking into account the fact that aerated concrete blocks have an almost ideal geometry, this ensured that there was no overuse of plaster due to unevenness (for example, if the walls were made of brick with cement joints 2 cm thick) and greatly simplified the work. Aerated concrete is very easy to process and for laying electrical wiring, the wall can be drilled practically with a screwdriver.
Wallpaper, simply painted walls or tiles (in the bathroom) are used as a finishing coating. Aerated concrete is also incredibly convenient because it is very easy to hang anything on it. Try, for example, driving a nail into a brick wall to hang a picture. Without an impact drill/hammer, you won’t be able to do anything, but you can hammer a nail into aerated concrete with any available tool, and it will easily support a weight of several kilograms (for a picture, this is more than enough). If you wanted to move the picture to a new place, you simply pulled out the nail, and on the wall you would be left with an invisible hole with a diameter of 1-2 mm. And in the brick wall there will be a mark from the dowel with a diameter of 5-7 mm. If we are talking about stationary fastening of heavy objects, then everything is much simpler. Especially when compared with hollow bricks, for which you will have to use chemical anchors. For aerated concrete, there are special screw dowels or universal dowels (both are sold in any hardware store) - I have it hanging on these dowels external unit air conditioner (80 kg), storage water heater(90 kg), kitchen set, ladder to the roof and other heavy objects.
As a result, I got an ideal perimeter that reliably protects the interior of the house from the cold. Tests using the air door showed that the house is practically airtight and, therefore, there are no gaps in the building envelope. The aerated concrete wall is plastered over its entire surface both outside and inside, which completely eliminates blowing through the seams. And this is the most direct savings on energy resources.
Aerated concrete can be additionally insulated without any problems (if you suddenly decide to build a house in the Arctic Circle), or more spectacular finishing by using facing bricks. But the most important advantage of aerated concrete is that it combines two important characteristics: compressive strength and thermal conductivity. Aerated concrete can be safely used in load-bearing walls of five-story (!) buildings, and it will have significantly lower thermal conductivity than concrete or brick.
And here it becomes obvious that concrete or brick have no chance at all for use in low-rise construction. Because it is long, expensive and cold. Let’s take my house as an example and calculate the costs if I were to build it out of brick.
But before we start the calculations, I want to show you a picture from a thermal imaging study (see the full report on the blog), which I did in January last year, when the temperature outside was below -15 degrees Celsius. Notice the house in the background. Now we are not interested in what it is built from (in fact, it is made of cinder blocks and insulated with foam plastic). What interests us is that this house is not used and is not heated all winter. And in the foreground you see my house, which is heated. And only by the windows “glowing” in the image from the thermal imager can one understand that this is so. Pay attention to the uniformity of the aerated concrete masonry and the absence of any heat loss through the walls. For example, you can open Yandex image search and see what heated brick houses usually look like. Here my house practically does not stand out from the surrounding landscape.
Now let's move on to calculating heat transfer resistance. I won’t burden you with complex formulas, we’ll keep things simple and clear. So, to begin with, we take the initial data, and not just any data, but the official test report, certified by the seal of the research center. Let me remind you that I used blocks with a density of D400 and a thickness of 375 mm.
And here is a graph of heat loss that you need to strive for. Here you can clearly see that the heat loss of enclosing structures consists of three main things:
1. Windows and doors;
2. Walls;
3. Ceiling (floor/ceiling).
At the same time, the coldest places in any house will always be windows and there is no escape from this, today best double glazed windows have a reduced heat transfer resistance equal to 1.05. But the walls of houses built in the central region (Moscow region) should have a reduced heat transfer resistance of 2.99 (m² ˚C)/W. And please note that the ceilings should have maximum insulation.
But now we are not talking about windows and ceilings, but about walls. So that our house answers current standards in terms of energy efficiency, the reduced heat transfer resistance of the walls should be at least 3.0. Let’s use, for example, this calculator and substitute the data from the above test report into it. And we will get that
Heat transfer resistance of the building envelope [R] = 3.57
Okay, let's be realistic: let's take into account the heterogeneity of the masonry (seams), slopes and corners. Let the reduced heat transfer resistance be equal to 3.28. And it's pure aerated concrete wall, without taking into account the additional layer of plaster inside and out. That is, in reality, the heat transfer resistance will be slightly higher.
For example, let’s take a masonry of solid ceramic bricks with a density of 1800 kg/m³ per cement-sand mortar. With a wall thickness of 375 mm, its heat transfer resistance will be only 0.62! This is almost 6 times “colder” than masonry made from aerated concrete blocks. That is, a brick wall equivalent in terms of energy efficiency should have a thickness of more than 2 meters. You understand that this is nonsense and no one will build a wall of such thickness in a low-rise building. This means you will have to build a brick wall of one or one and a half bricks, and then additionally insulate it. And after insulation, you still have to think about how to attach the finishing coating to the insulation. That is, in this case we complicate the construction process.
And the labor intensity of masonry is best evidenced by the fact that one aerated concrete block (625x250x375 mm) is equal in volume to 20 bricks (250x120x65 mm), taking into account cement joint! And in order to lay 20 bricks you will need approximately 1.5-2 buckets of mortar (if you work with aerated concrete, this amount of mortar will be enough to lay more than 20 aerated concrete blocks). That's the whole economics of brick construction. That is, only during construction brick house you are greatly overpaying.
But the hardest part will begin during operation. Operate poorly insulated brick house, if you do not have an “unlimited” and cheap source of thermal energy (mains gas), it will simply be impossible, because you simply do not have enough allocated electrical power (standard 15 kW).
If the walls of your house comply with current standards for heat transfer resistance, then you can economically heat a stone aerated concrete house using electricity without any problems.
The conclusion is obvious - in capital low-rise construction there are simply no alternatives to energy-efficient aerated concrete. At the same time, if we consider final cost enclosing structures, it turns out that such a solution is cheaper not only at the construction stage, but also during operation.
P.S. Of course, we do not forget that the energy efficiency of a building is not only the walls, but also windows/doors, foundation and ceiling (roof). And, naturally, forced ventilation. Only if all conditions are met simultaneously can a house be considered energy efficient.
Still have questions? Ask them in the comments!
All publications about how this house was built can be found
A project for an energy-saving house was implemented in Chekhov, Moscow Region.
The house is for sale. Priceenergy saving house is 7,500,000 rubles. The house is located within the city of Chekhov, a 20-minute walk from the center, 15 minutes from the forest, 250 meters from Pyaterochka and the bus stop public transport. Nearby there are schools, kindergartens, a sports complex, a plot of 5 acres, in the house:
4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen-living room with bay window area, second living room with bay window area on the second floor, storage room under the stairs, autonomous sewerage"Topol" connected to the drainage system for drainage of technical water, a water well, a septic tank where all the equipment is installed, electricity connected underground to the house, a water outlet for summer use, a water outlet for the bathhouse.
The house has a toilet, a sink, and the sewage system is already working. There is a place for a bathhouse, 2 parking spaces, paths, fir trees, pine trees, fruit trees, completed landscape work, a summer veranda, a place for a fireplace, an insulated 5-chamber double-glazed window profile, 3-chamber double-glazed windows. The inside of the house is plastered to look like a lighthouse, 3 layers of putty are applied, roof insulation is 20 cm (Knauf polystyrene foam), floor insulation is 10 cm (Knauf polystyrene foam for floors).
Detailed description of an energy-saving house:
The house is made of cellular concrete (aerated concrete), blocks 375 mm wide with a density of D 500, this is one of the best materials for construction energy saving houses. The topic of energy-saving technologies is very broad, so we will dwell a little on the main points and directly tell you about our home.
IN Lately, construction of energy-saving houses is gaining great popularity in Russia. This is understandable; the times of useless waste of energy, resources and time are passing. Buy an energy-efficient house today it is quite simple, as more and more relevant objects have begun to enter the market. At construction of energy-saving houses , the main emphasis is on good insulation home and reducing heat losses to a minimum, as well as accumulating energy in the house from external sources energy.
Average statistical indicators of energy consumption in everyday life:
Lighting 2-3%
Cooking 4-6%
Other home appliances (Refrigerator, washing machine, etc.) 6%
Water heating 12%
Heating 73-76%
Of course, these indicators are average and different for everyone, but you can’t argue with the fact that heating takes up the bulk of energy consumed in everyday life.
There is an opinion that houses built using energy-saving technologies are limited in design solutions. This opinion is very dubious and in reality has practically no effect on the exterior of the house, since there are no special restrictions on structural forms, the main condition is high-quality insulation of the house in all possible ways structural elements(walls, roof, floors, windows, doors, ventilation, cold bridges, etc.).
In addition to heat conservation, energy-saving houses pay attention to the accumulation and use of solar energy, wind and other possible options.
We tried to implement the project in a modern classical style with elements of Provence.
The main goal in building an energy-saving house was:
1) Construction of a house with high energy-saving indicators using modern, environmentally friendly materials of high quality.
2) Compliance with all necessary standards, deadlines and requirements for the construction of these structures.
3) The use of materials in the construction of a house that allow the house to “breathe” and maintain the correct microclimate.
4) Convenient zoning and space planning while maintaining the functionality of the entire space. There are no non-functional areas in the house.
5) The area of the house was calculated for the comfortable living of a family from 2-3 (with perspective) to 5-6 people, without the construction of “empty” areas, which in reality are practically not used and are a lifelong liability for which you have to pay for your whole life, just like that.
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6) Selecting a site within the city, with a convenient location, developed infrastructure, transport accessibility (but not closer than 200 meters to the road).
7) Selection of a site with the possibility of carrying out all necessary communications.
8) Possibility of registration in the future.
9) A plot that allows you to allocate space for parking two cars.
10) Use modern technologies heating (economically profitable and easy to use).
The house was built according to the project. Most of the work was completed with a quality margin above the norm.
Stages of building an energy-saving house:
1 . Foundation in an energy-efficient house.
When buying an energy-efficient home, this is the first thing you should pay attention to. Special attention so that in the future we will not be surprised by surprises in the form of cracks, etc.
The foundation is the foundation of the house, and we approached it thoroughly. When choosing a foundation, preference was given to a strip-pile foundation. This is due to the reliability of the design and durability. The price of the foundation is significant, but it is worth it.
The strip-pile foundation consists of metal piles with a diameter of 108 mm, with blades of 350 mm, twisted to a depth of 2 meters (below the freezing depth in the Moscow Region 1.7 m).
The choice of the company that sells and installs the piles was thorough (since the piles must be made of very high quality, for a long service life, have good processing and all the necessary protective layers. The seams must be factory-made and without damage). From above, the piles are cut to level and the cavity is necessarily filled with high-quality concrete.
Next, the foundation for the strip foundation is prepared (removal of soil and installation of a sand cushion). All piles are covered with a reinforcement frame of 16 pieces of reinforcement according to the design (tying the structure together to create a strong, solid foundation for the house).
When the concrete set and dried, high-quality waterproofing was installed on top. She lay down carefully, since the surface strip foundation was aligned with the lighthouse. Before pouring the foundation, everything necessary communications were brought into the house to the necessary places.
2. Installation of slabs on the 1st floor in an energy-saving house.
Next, we installed slabs (PNO - lightweight). They can withstand the same load as slabs with a thickness of 22 cm - 800 kg.m.sq. The choice of PNO slabs is determined so as not to place unnecessary load on the foundation. The slabs were secured to the foundation and the installation of cellular concrete began.
3. Installation of load-bearing walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house.
As mentioned above, for an energy-saving house, load-bearing wall blocks were chosen with a width of 375 mm and grade D 500. There are many reasons for choosing cellular concrete as the main material for building a house:
1. This is a modern and high-quality material that has all the necessary environmental standards.
2. Excellent energy-saving properties, thanks to the huge number of small pores in the material filled with air. And as we know, air is the best insulating material. The thermal insulation and isotropic properties of cellular concrete are the same in both vertical and horizontal directions. In the cold season, the house keeps warm, and in summer cool.
3. The material has excellent geometry, is very convenient to use, can be easily processed, cut, etc. (usually from a large manufacturer producing high-quality products, real differences in geometry are up to 2 mm). Due to the possibility of easy processing of the material, it can be given any interesting design shapes.
4. Cellular concrete “breathes,” which is very important for creating the right microclimate in the house. This is highly valued in Europe and other developed countries.
In practice, the house was tested: 2 people spent the night in a small room on the 1st floor, the window and door did not open during the night, in the morning there was no shortage of air due to slow air exchange and removal carbon dioxide. Lack of air is felt in houses with highly airtight walls. Such houses should usually have good ventilation.
5. The material is durable, does not require any maintenance over time, does not lose its properties, does not age, does not rot, does not burn.
6. Has virtually no shrinkage.
7. Very convenient for laying communications, electrical, etc.
8. The material is non-flammable and has high fire resistance even with small wall thicknesses.
9. High strength with low weight.
10. Good sound insulation performance.
11. Thanks to the precise geometry, the masonry joint is actually 1-2 mm, which eliminates heat loss through the joints and reduces consumption masonry mortar. The blocks are laid using an adhesive composition.
If you make a seam from 5 to 10 mm or more in a brick wall or a wall made of 15-20 mm blocks, then the total area of masonry joints can be from 15 to 30% of the wall surface. And masonry mixture energy saving indicators are not high, so such structures must be additionally insulated.
12. Using this material, you can avoid cold bridges throughout the entire house if you follow the construction technology correctly. (This will make it possible to avoid condensation on the internal surfaces of the house during the cold season).
13. Thanks to proven construction technology and the availability of the necessary tools, the speed of construction of structures is very high.
14. Convenient for fastening on all wall surfaces.
15. There is no need for additional wall insulation. (And this is very significant).
Construction of the walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house:
When erecting walls, window openings must be strengthened. For this, in places window openings before last row blocks, the fittings are installed in 2 rows, so that it extends beyond the edge of the window opening by at least 500 mm in both directions. This prevents cracks from forming under window openings.
4. The first armored belt in an energy-saving house.
Having completed the installation of the last row of blocks on the first floor, we assembled the formwork for the reinforced aerated concrete belt. An armored belt is required in houses made of aerated concrete, and it must be continuous around the entire perimeter of the house. This design will protect the house from pushing forces.
Many people underestimate its necessity, making independent decisions about its feasibility. Such a decision can only be made by an experienced architect who knows the specifics of working with aerated concrete.
The filling of the armored belt, the concrete structure, will be separated from external temperatures by a 10 cm cellular concrete partition, and this is not enough for us, so we installed extruded polystyrene foam between the armored belt and the external aerated concrete to insulate the structure.
5. Installation of floor slabs on the second floor in an energy-saving house.
Anchors made of 16-diameter reinforcement were secured in the reinforced belt for attaching floor slabs to them. All floor slabs were installed according to the design. The slabs were secured through the reinforcement located in the slabs with a 10 cm welding seam, with 16 reinforcement coming out of the reinforcement belt.
6. Construction of the walls of the second floor in an energy-saving house.
Next we started building the walls of the second floor. The peculiarity of the second floor in our house is that it is full and at the lowest junction of the walls and the roof the distance from the floor to the roof is 2.25 meters.
As a rule, most attic floors have 50-90% of the full height, where you can move comfortably.
7. Second armored belt in an energy-saving house.
Having completed the last row of the second floor, formwork is prepared from aerated concrete and insulation is installed on the inside of the outer partition made of extruded polystyrene foam to insulate the reinforced belt. Additionally, studs are installed to secure the Mauerlat. According to the project, the studs were calculated to be 12 mm and the fixation should be in an armored belt.
This work was carried out with a margin above the norm: the studs were set to 18 in diameter, the fixation is in the reinforced belt and an additional 500 mm down two rows into the aerated concrete. All pins are about 1 meter long. The work was carried out to ensure a large margin of stability under strong wind loads.
The armored belt is poured from concrete grade M 300.
Both armored belts pass over the window openings and are made in such a way that all concrete structures are hidden in aerated concrete, both on the front side and on the inside and are insulated with polystyrene foam. This is done in order to avoid cold bridges and condensation.
8. Installation of a Mauerlat in an Energy Saving House.
After the reinforced belt concrete had dried and gained its strength, we moved on to installing the Mauerlat. All the boards used to build the house were carefully treated in 2 layers with neomid and dried for about 2 months. Before installing the Mauerlat, high-quality waterproofing was installed on the armored belt.
For the Mauerlat we used 150 x 150 mm timber. Holes were drilled for the studs, then the power plate was installed and the nuts and washers were tightened. All fasteners used for the roof must be galvanized, which is rust-resistant.
9. Construction of gables in an energy-saving house.
While the armored belt dries out and gains strength, pediments are erected on both sides. Here we need precise calculations for the correct and symmetrical construction of the pediments. The entire geometry of the roof depends on this.
The construction of the gables was carried out using precisely set templates. This job requires special effort, since almost all blocks must be trimmed, the angle and required slope must be observed. There is a ventilation hole on each gable for air circulation in the attic, 300 x 300 mm.
10. Installation of a roof frame in an energy-efficient house.
After completing the gables we moved on to installation rafter system roofs. A board 200 X 50 X 6000 mm was used as a rafter. We deliberately used a board height of 200 mm to provide the high-quality insulation we needed.
The rafter system is the basis of the roof; its entire basis will depend on the accuracy of this work. It is necessary to accurately make all calculations and check all diagonals. First, the rafters are installed on two different sides of the gables, then the entire roof frame is assembled along the cords.
Fastening to the Mauerlat is made using a special cutout in the rafters and two galvanized corners. The corners according to the project are 60 X 60 X 2 mm. We used a margin of 100 X 100 X 3 mm. For fixation, yellow self-tapping screws and 12 mm studs with washers and nuts were used. The rafters were positioned relative to each other in 60 cm increments to strengthen the roof structure.
At the same time, the roof ridge was being installed. For the ridge, a beam of 100 X 200 X 6000 mm was used.
11. Installation of waterproofing, counter-lattice and sheathing in an energy-efficient house.
To install the correct “pie” of our roof, it is necessary to perform all the necessary work. To begin with, we choose high-quality waterproofing that suits all necessary requirements. We chose the Corotop Classic membrane. She's different excellent characteristics and is capable of protecting the house from precipitation for up to six months, if metal tiles have not yet been installed. Tested in practice: there have been several heavy rains, the result is not a single drop of water was allowed inside.
It does not allow moisture to pass inside (condensation from metal tiles, wet air etc.), but is able to remove excess moisture outward, this is similar to the structure of the skin. The membrane is installed with an overlap; for this purpose, the membrane has the necessary drawings. Overlapping areas are additionally taped with special roofing double-sided tape.
Next, we install a counter-lattice for the required ventilation gap, board 50 X 50 mm. After this, we proceed to install the sheathing. For the lathing, a board 25 X 100 X 6000 mm was used. Here, too, accurate calculations are required, checking diagonals, calculating the pitch for metal tiles, etc. The counter-lattice and sheathing are fastened with galvanized 100 mm rough nails.
12. Installation of metal tiles, snow guards, ventilation outlets and drainage system in an energy-saving house.
The choice of metal tiles was approached just as thoroughly. We chose it in a large specialized store "Unikma". There is no place for savings and experiments here :). The choice fell on the Finnish concern Ruukki, color PURAL MATT. The service life of this metal tile is 50 years. The sheets were made to order, in one piece.
At the same time, in the required places, we cut in two Vilpe ventilation outlets of 125 mm each and one sewer outlet of 110 mm. We secured the metal tiles according to the fastening diagram for reliable fixation and protection from gusts of wind.
We chose a metal gutter system because it is of higher quality, does not fade in the sun, and is stronger. Installation of snow guards is a necessary safety measure. Moreover, it is very important to install a high-quality one, secure it well.
Snow loads can be very significant and in addition huge amount snow and ice falling from the roof can be supplemented with snow retainers.
13. Installation of windows, window sills and front door in an energy-saving house.
If we building an energy-saving house , which means the windows must be appropriate. If you decide buy an energy-efficient house , pay special attention to window structures.
The window profile chosen is very warm, 5-chamber and three-chamber double-glazed windows. The glass we chose was also energy-saving. For effective insulation double-glazed windows, on the façade side, and insulated the window openings with aerated concrete.
On both sides, the windows have decorative lamination that matches the style of the house. Window sills have the same lamination.
The entrance door was ordered insulated with polystyrene foam.
14. Facade plaster and putty in an energy-saving house.
To ensure high-quality protection of the facade of the house, it is necessary to carry out a series of sequential works. Important for external works, use materials intended specifically for the facade. First, the surface is cleaned and primed. Next, we fill all the small chips with facade plaster. After this, apply with a spatula a thin layer of 2 - 3 mm facade plaster in 2 layers.
We do without standard plaster due to the fact that the walls were built level and have a very smooth surface. Next, we prime again and apply façade putty in 2 layers. The work was carried out before the first frost with the addition of anti-frost additives. With the onset of the first negative temperatures, work was postponed until spring.
15. Construction of partitions in an energy-saving house.
During the winter, work began inside the house. For the partitions, cellular concrete 150 mm thick, grade D600, was used. We lay waterproofing under the base of the wall and lay the first row level on the mortar. Next, installation proceeds to the adhesive mixture.
Partitions must be connected to load-bearing walls with special connections. In the upper part of the junction of the partitions with the ceiling, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint of up to 2 cm, it must be foamed.
Naturally, the partitions need to be built with high quality, so that later you don’t have to spend a lot on plaster mixture and additional work. We got an average thickness interior plaster 6 - 10 mm. The floors, after installing the partitions, were filled with self-leveling flooring (preparing the surface for laying polystyrene foam).
16. Installing insulation in an energy-efficient house.
The correct choice of insulation and quality installation, one of the most important stages in the construction of an energy-saving house. Before buy an energy-efficient house , this factor is worth paying attention to the most. The choice of polystyrene foam was not accidental.
Firstly, expanded polystyrene retains heat better than other insulation based on glass wool, etc.
Secondly, there is no dangerous dust that causes allergies (used in fiberglass-based insulation, etc.). People often disassemble such roof insulation because over time they absorb moisture and lose their efficiency and volume. They have the advantage of not being flammable.
For insulation, we chose KNAUF polystyrene foam, which does not burn, but only melts. This has been tested experimentally. And since we are talking about the resistance of materials to fire, we can assume that if a fire occurs in the house and the surfaces of the walls, furniture, coatings catch fire, wooden structures roof, then no insulation will save you, whether it is susceptible to burning or not.
To do this, it is better to provide the necessary security measures. Of course, we do not consider cheap polystyrene foam options, the composition of which may be unsuitable for use in the home. Only high-quality material, with the necessary certificates and proven over the years.
Yes, polystyrene foam is more labor-intensive to install, but the result is worth it. The thickness of the insulation on the roof is 20 cm wide everywhere. The installation was carried out in 4 layers, 5 cm each.
After installing each layer, all the cracks were thoroughly foamed and so on for all 4 layers. Thanks to this, very high-quality insulation was obtained.
From below, the insulation is insulated with a vapor barrier membrane. We have a Corotop Classic water vapor barrier membrane, and that’s what we use. From above, in attic, above the insulation, installed moisture resistant boards OSB, for the ability to move on the surface and protect polystyrene foam.
Gaps after installation OSB boards, also foam. Ventilation communications are laid, which are also well insulated.
To insulate the Mauerlat area, it is necessary to make inserts from extruded polystyrene foam on the front side and properly foam all the cracks. WITH inside partition made of cellular concrete.
On the floor of the first floor, Knauf polystyrene foam for flooring is laid.
It is more dense and you can easily move on it without damaging it. Layer thickness 10 cm.
Thus, we insulated the entire house. The largest layer of insulation is concentrated on the roof, because through it the most heat is lost. The house is designed in such a way as to minimize heat loss. That's why our house is called energy-saving.
This factor is given great importance. This is due to the fact that the largest expense in maintaining a house and other real estate is usually heating. A house is built once, but will have to be maintained for the rest of its life.
We conducted an experiment:
The temperature in the house was + 10 degrees, outside the temperature was minus 15-17 degrees. All heating devices were turned off, a day later they took measurements and the temperature was + 8 degrees. Without heating, in cold weather, an energy-saving house with an area of 120 sq.m. I lost only 2 degrees.
17. Plastering and puttying of internal walls in an energy-saving house.
The walls are primed and after drying, the chips are filled. Next is plastering internal surfaces layer 6-10 mm, plaster mixture for interior work based on gypsum (Rotband Knauf). Before applying the putty, it must be additionally primed and allowed to dry. The putty is made in 3 layers.
18. Application decorative plaster"bark beetle" in an energy-saving house.
For decorative plaster, we chose “bark beetle” texture, 2.5 mm filler. VGT plaster has excellent protective characteristics and creates very durable coating, while air exchange is not disrupted.
The color was chosen according to the overall style. Applying such plaster requires certain skills and experience; application is carried out from edge to edge.
19. Construction of blind areas, paths and parking spaces in an energy-saving house.
For correct device, it is necessary to remove a layer of earth about 40 cm deep. After this, the base is filled with crushed stone and compacted.
On top, add a layer of sand, which is moistened and compacted well. Next, it is necessary to install a mesh to prevent cracks and fractures. On all surfaces of concrete structures, there is a slight slope to drain rainwater.
Also, the site has a drainage system that removes excess water from the site underground. The paths and blind area are 100 cm wide, not only for drainage of precipitation, but also for ease of movement along them. There is a convenient driveway for cars on the site.
For a convenient location of two cars, the area is concreted, while you can move freely, cars do not block the passage. It is possible to accommodate larger vehicles.
There is a concrete area for barbecue. Shashlik maker, made in the same stylistic direction. Good for the device drainage system and leveling the site, 10 cubic meters of crushed stone and 40 cubic meters of sand were used.
20. Planting a lawn on the site of an energy-saving house.
To install a lawn, it is necessary to create a fertile layer of chernozem about 10 cm. The chernozem is leveled over the site with a slight slope to drain water and comply with the general landscape of the site.
For planting, used low growing lawn. On the site there are also: 6 pines, 3 fir trees, 2 cherries, one plum, small raspberry bushes. For gardening, there is an area behind the house. We fundamentally do not use any chemicals, pesticides, herbicides, etc. We are firmly in favor of a healthy lifestyle and this aspect is not indifferent to us.
21. Construction of a summer veranda in an energy-saving house.
The summer veranda is made in modern style, mixed with Provence, artificially aged, timber 150 X 150 mm and 100 X 100 mm. All lower parts have reliable protection. They underwent two-time treatment with neomid, then two-time treatment with bitumen mastic.
The upper parts of the veranda were treated with neomid, marilka and 2 times of yacht varnish. On the veranda, there is a table made of solid pine, 100 mm thick, in the same style, with the addition of real masculine brutality.
The house has a place for a fireplace on the ground floor in the kitchen-living room. The chimney pipe should pass through the wall behind the fireplace, under the stairs and through the wall to the street, then rises to the roof.
In such a house it is not necessary to install gas, since it retains heat very well. If the fireplace is running in winter, the energy consumption will be quite insignificant. This house was planned for the most modern system heating, infrared with adjustable temperature sensors. Infrared film mounted under drywall.
If the house is well insulated, then the system operates only 10-15% of the time per day, which ensures low consumption. If you look into it and see the facts, then gas is necessary if the house is poorly insulated. During winter, electricity bills add up to significant amounts.
But this is not a problem either, the gas has already been piped to the neighboring houses, the pipe runs 1 meter from the fence, and can be connected if desired.
22. Buy an Energy Saving House
If you decide to buy an energy-saving house, in our opinion, the advantage is obvious: the price is the same as that of similar ones, and the maintenance is much more profitable. and this is not only in winter; in summer, air conditioning is practically not needed. One of the main tasks when building an energy-saving house was to maintain an affordable price for the object. It seems to us that we have completed this task. Many believe that the price of such houses will be exorbitant, we tried to dispel these doubts and create a property in an affordable price segment.
E energy saving house price is 7,500,000 rubles, this is the price of a good one-room apartment in Moscow. :)
As a gift from our studio, we are giving free development of a design project for this house.
Sincerely, Mira-Style Design Studio.
Tel: 8 495 507 91 56
Email: [email protected]
Definitely not in your case. Now on the market there is a block with a thickness of 380 mm with a low density (600 kg/m3), but if you do not use mains gas as an energy carrier, this is an extremely bad option.Double stone is the material of the day before yesterday. As a single-layer it turns out to be cold due to low technical uniformity (many seams), but as a multi-layer it limits the connection with the front verst exclusively to the square seam.
More about 2.1 SF
If we consider a high-quality multi-layer structure, then as a base it makes sense to use a dense material with effective insulation and good thermal engineering coefficients. The ability of a wall to accumulate heat (heat capacity) is important in the case of unstable coolants. However, a multilayer structure is very demanding in terms of quality and order of work. Ideally, the wall should be leveled before insulation, and the insulation should be glued. The heat-intensive structure is not cheap. It makes sense to use ceramic solid brick and insulation with a density of 100 kg/m3 - mineral wool.
The most energy-efficient single-layer structure with minimal thickness can be made from aerated concrete block The heat capacity of the structure in this case will be low - it is logical to increase it by using solid bricks as internal load-bearing walls and partitions.
A huge advantage of aerated concrete is its manufacturability and comparative ease of use.
There are now many options for low-density blocks on the market. Considering that it is planned to build a one-story building, it makes sense to look towards low-density blocks - D 300 or D 350. If you want to get a house with minimal heat loss, you can choose perfect option- thickness 375 - 400 mm in block D 300. in this way it is possible to achieve unattainable values for warm ceramics heat loss parameters - heat transfer resistance: R = 4.75 (m² ˚C)/W
Calculation of layered masonry solid brick - insulation - cladding
https://www.smartcalc.ru/thermocalc...=1<2=0&mm2=425&ld3=1200&le3=1<3=0&mm3=174Naturally, options are chosen that are superior existing standards in thermal engineering, to begin with it makes sense to decide on the choice of material in principle.
From t.z. money, it turns out mathematically cheaper to take 2 double bricks for 15-17 rubles = 30-34 than one 38TK for 90.
The amount of masonry mortar will not increase much total cost walls, rather than the difference of 60 rubles per stone.The double stone is a relic of the past. If the wall is single-layer, you need to take into account the cost of warm masonry mortar. Under this condition, 2.1 NF will be simply “golden”..
It would be good for you to clarify what you are investing in understanding an energy efficient home.
If you simply rely on current standards, then in aerated concrete it is sufficient to use a block 300 mm thick in low density, (D 300 or D 350) for example
https://www.smartcalc.ru/thermocalc...=1<1=0&mm1=425&ld2=1200&le2=1<2=0&mm2=174It is unlikely that there will be a cheaper way to obtain such indicators in alternative materials.
I wouldn't rely heavily on technology for heating, although install servo drives and temperature sensors You can always use heating collectors. In most cases, the boiler operates in constant mode and does not need to be controlled.
It is noteworthy that, in principle, the site was not damaged, namely its functionality. Judge for yourself: the total area of the territory is only 6 acres, and practically in its center stands two-storey house with an attic (total area - about 250 m²). At the same time, on personal plot parking for several cars was placed; large covered terrace; utility storage room; children's playground; alpine slide, flower beds, beds; spacious woodshed; dog house.
Of course, some people like more space around the house, but this raises the question of the feasibility of the initial investment, since, we repeat, this object is located in Kyiv (Berkovtsy district).
However, we won’t spend much time on the garden area and will begin to get to know the house.
Initial data
The project was independently developed for ourselves in order to take into account all wishes as much as possible. The site already had a foundation, so it was used as the basis for a future house. The site is flat and windless. Of the negative features - high level groundwater. The positive side is all the delights of life in a garden cooperative within the capital.
The entire cycle of construction work from start to finish finishing took almost 5 years, from 2011 to 2016. Such a long process allowed us to devote more time to theoretical preparation and planning of all actions and decisions. In addition, it was relatively simpler in material terms, since one-time large-scale capital investments were not required.
Building
Foundation- strip-column with monolithic slab. The latter was chosen as the basis for the subsequent creation of a “warm floor” system. Carrier the basis wall structure made of aerated concrete "StoneLight" D400 with a thickness of 360 mm. And if such walls would have been quite suitable for the old standards, then taking into account the current requirements and the cost of energy resources, they insulated A 10-centimeter layer of PBS-25 foam.
This decision was quite conscious. Yes, on the Internet there are a lot of arguments in favor of insulating with wool, since it is vapor permeable, like aerated concrete. They write that polystyrene foam creates a “plug” and cannot be used with cellular concrete. However, there are a number of quite reasonable arguments on the other side, convincing that when the right approach aerated concrete can be insulated with foam plastic. The owner of this cottage chose the latter position and does not regret it, having verified in practice that this option is quite applicable.
To protect the facade from precipitation and to give it a decorative component, we chose “lamb” plaster from Anserglob. Finishing layer- paint from Tikkurila. By the way, it is worth noting that the color of the facade contributes to the topic of energy efficiency of enclosing structures. Everyone knows that black objects heat up faster and more strongly in the sun, while white objects, on the contrary, reflect the rays. And this is true for all designs. Therefore dark façade walls will be warmer in winter. But is solar energy needed in the hot summer?
On the inside the premises are used a variety of coatings - paint, wallpaper, acrylic plaster, tiles.
Windows and transparent doors are made of the same type and represent a 5-chamber profile system (frame) with a two-chamber double-glazed window. To save on heating costs and create more comfortable conditions, modern energy-saving designs with special i-glasses and inert gas were chosen.
Floors under the second floor and under the attic - wooden, insulated mineral wool 10 cm thick. Thanks lightweight designs And wooden floor, the connection in the house is good, Wi-Fi is available everywhere. The roof insulation was made from high-density mineral wool, but already 25 cm thick. Additionally, a foil barrier was used.
Engineering "stuffing"
Modernization internal network garden cooperative made it possible to connect the house to a three-phase electricity supply(16 A on automatic). Thanks to this, the power is more than enough for all household needs and a sauna. In addition, after long and problematic development and approval of a number of project documentation the house was gasified. However, I would like to note that these problems are not targeted and do not relate to specific officials or employees. In almost any region of the country, homeowners will say that if the torment (and they are obligatory) with the gascantor lasts only six months, then it’s lucky.
For water supply it uses its own well. In addition, let down process water from centralized networks. Sewage disposal is carried out in septic tank. Vodograi bacteria are used to clean wastewater; sludge is pumped out only in the cold season.
Air exchange in the house is natural(inflow - through windows and doors, exhaust - through the central ventilation duct).
The heating issue has been resolved comprehensively, using almost all possible options. There is an affordable (130 USD) Vinnitsa electric boiler Aston 6 kW. It was used literally a couple of times before starting up the wood-burning boiler. That was enough this offseason.
In addition, installed a gas boiler Ariston Clas Evo, which is mainly used only for morning heating (we can say that this is one half heating system). Other - solid fuel boiler Viadrus, which is heated almost every evening. To do this, use 2-3 stacks of firewood (about 60 kg). The heated water is distributed over heating radiators installed in the rooms, but the main purpose of the coolant is to warm up the heated floor, screeded almost throughout the entire first floor. 6 m³ of screed plays the role of a heat accumulator - the heat reserves are enough for the whole night. In the morning, active gas heating is performed. Then the boiler turns off, and there is enough heat for the whole day until the evening use of solid fuel. To provide hot water supply a gas boiler is used, which heats the water and supplies it to the Drazice thermal tank (200 l). This option is much more convenient than the dual-circuit one. gas boiler, since there is no delay in supply and it is easier to regulate the temperature of the water for showering.
Material aspect
Approximate energy consumption for life support and creating comfortable conditions:
- heating. The house is quite warm: the children run around almost naked, the heated floor is always warm. In terms of consumption with alternating heating with gas and solid fuel in neutral months (0 °C), up to 200 m³ of gas and about 2 m³ of wood are consumed. In cold months (-10 - -15 °C) consumption increases to 600 m³ of gas and 4-5 m³ of firewood;
- electricity consumption. Electricity is not used for heating, but due to the large number of family members, refrigerators, washing machines, dishwashers, lighting and appliances are constantly running. As a result, the figure is always stable - about 1000 kW per month at a single tariff of 1.15 UAH/kW (at the moment).
Don't be afraid to build
- Energy saving windows. I don’t regret that we weren’t afraid to install huge panoramic windows in the northern part of the house. Thanks to modern profiles and double-glazed windows, the house is warm, light and spacious.
- Insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam. The result was a lightweight, breathable structure, after installation of which the house became significantly warmer (almost 2 times).
- Super insulated roof. 25 cm of high-density mineral wool instantly made the house 30% warmer. And now even in the attic (without separate heating!) In winter the temperature does not drop below 15 °C.
As for the mistakes - if I were building it again, I would put more insulation under the warm floor. Now there is 5 cm of PSB-25 foam, and I would use 5 cm of extruded polystyrene foam.
I would like to advise beginning developers not to be afraid to make a choice between a house and an apartment. Operating costs are comparable, capital costs are slightly higher. But subject to independent work (there are a lot of simple options for carrying out a number of construction and finishing works), the price for a small house (120 m² with an attic) will not be much higher than the cost of an apartment of the same size. But behind the doors of the house, instead of a landing, there will be another plot, greenery, fresh air and its own land.