Many flower lovers want to have Aechmea in their collection, but do not know the characteristics of this flower and are afraid to purchase it. Caring for it is quite standard, even eliminating many procedures, due to the nature of the plant itself. This unusually attractive flower belongs to the bromeliaceae family.
Attracts the attention of flower growers with its unique appearance, monumentality, and colorfulness. Columbus's companions first encountered exotic beauties while traveling through the tropical forests of South America. Here and there they came across flowers with their roots grown into the bark of huge trees. They were unusually surprised by the sight of fabulous bright plants located right on the tree trunks with flowers reminiscent of birds with bright plumage.
- Some species were subsequently brought to the Old World. Most bromeliads in natural conditions are epiphytes: they settle on other plants, located on trees or at the base of roots, clinging to trunks as supports.
- Aechmea belongs to the reservoir bromeliads. In these unusual plants, the leaf blades are so tightly adjacent to each other that they form a kind of reservoir in which water accumulates.
Atmospheric liquid (rain, dew), very soft, flows down the branches, falling into this container and collecting there. Leaves and small twigs of trees often fall there, which quickly decompose in a humid, warm climate, serving as food for bromeliads. There you can meet small animals, for which the rosette is a kind of reservoir in which they live, feed on rotted remains and reproduce. And their roots play the role of clothespins that the epiphyte holds on the tree.
They are both in the ground and on any supports. They have a certain supply of moisture in the axils of their leaves, and a small volume of soil is formed there. Therefore, most bromeliads are undemanding to living conditions. They do not know how to feed through the root, this is worth taking into account.
The name of the plant Aechmea has Greek origins and is translated as ‘spike tip’ - due to the similarity of the pointed bracts to the spade. The stem is shortened, one might say that it is completely absent. The leaves in a rosette are long, lanceolate, parchment-leathery, spiny-toothed along the edges. Inflorescence spike, panicle or large head. The shape of inflorescences and individual flowers differs in variety. The fruit is a berry.
Growing and caring for echmea at home
Echmea tolerates different lighting: both direct sunlight and diffused light. The silvery stripes on its leaves, formed by many small scales, may disappear after touching them with your hand or with a lack of light. From the touch of your fingers, clearly visible patnas remain. The usual temperature is suitable for her, but not lower than 12 and not higher than 27 degrees.
If it's too cold- the inflorescence and peduncle dry out, acquiring a dirty tint. Move it to a warmer place. You need fairly moist soil, especially before flowering, water it twice a week. Also, there should always be at least 2.5 cm of water in the outlet funnel, which is changed after 3 weeks. It is preferable to use rain water, or preferably melt water. This is explained by the fact that in nature, during tropical downpours, raindrops collect in a funnel along the leaves.
- Moisture should not be allowed to remain in the outlet for a long time when the temperature drops; in this case, the plant is turned over, removing the liquid for several days. It should be taken into account that they have a weak root system that does not respond well to excess moisture in the soil, which only serves to strengthen the soil; it does not need waterlogging.
Aechmea does not need fertilizing; it is also indifferent to air humidity.. There are special fertilizers for bromeliads, which are added in small quantities to the outlet. The greatest attention should be paid to the location of your flower; a suitable place is the key to good health, long flowering, and a presentable appearance. Usually, recommendations regarding the orientation of windows to the cardinal directions are not entirely correct.
- Lighting from a south window is not always better or stronger than from a north window. Your south window may overlook the courtyard of high-rise buildings, or there may be a large tree near it, limiting the access of light. The northern one, on the contrary, is sufficiently illuminated and receives a little sun in the mornings or evenings. Of course, in this case the second option is preferable.
Watch your green friend. His appearance will tell you whether he is happy in this place. At the slightest negative change in the appearance of the plant, move it to another place in your apartment. The same goes for humidity. It has a beneficial effect when kept in a sufficiently warm room. If the temperature is not high, you should not get carried away with increasing the humidity. Cover the soil in the pot with a layer of sphagnum moss, moistening it periodically. Water, evaporating, will increase humidity, and moss, in addition, being an excellent antiseptic, protects against diseases and insects.
You cannot replant a newly purchased echmea; it will hurt for a long time, since the roots of bromeliads are very delicate. Only when the plant has faded and begins to produce babies can you start replanting the babies. But there is no need to rush here either; they must grow well and have their own root system.
Any loose, non-calcareous soil is suitable. The shoots separated from the mother plant are planted in individual pots. Before flowering, they are transferred again to a larger pot. Purchased flowering plants should not be replanted; they have already reached their maturity and do not require additional nutrition.
- Before transplanting, water the echmea thoroughly. Lightly tap the edge of the pot against the table and carefully pull out the plant, grasping it between your fingers, while holding the pot with your other hand. Turn over and remove the pot from the roots. Using a stick, carefully remove the remains of the old substrate from the roots. Place the plant in the center of the new container and cover with fresh soil, being careful to cover all the roots without packing the soil tightly.
- Do not water the transplanted plant for a couple of days and keep it in a shaded place so that the roots can develop the new soil. A pot of soil serves the echmea only to hold the plant in an upright position.
Please note that the green mass of echmea sometimes exceeds the weight of the pot with roots and substrate, constantly falling on its side, so when choosing a planting container, give preference to more massive specimens.
It can be successfully attached to a piece of bark or wood. Choose a suitable piece of driftwood and make a small depression in it. Carefully remove the plant from the pot, wrap its roots in sphagnum moss, place it in the designated recess, securing it with wire. Moisten the roots a little and pour water into the funnel. You can cover the soil substrate with a small layer of sphagnum moss or small pebbles; it will take excess moisture from the roots, evaporating it upward, and the pebbles will make the container heavier.
Thus, you can create a spectacular decorative composition - a ‘bromeliad tree’, on the frame of which several representatives of this amazing group are located. The plant is not pruned; only the faded shoot is removed at the base with pruning shears. Echmea also does not need any cleaning - it practically tolerates all conditions of detention, which is important when there is a lack of free time.
Reproduction of echmea by shoots
How to plant echmea? You can get new plants from young shoots formed after flowering. Do not separate the offspring from the mother plant until they are fully developed. During this time they should reach half the height of the parent. Prepare a small, weighty pot with a layer of drainage and moist peat. Using a sharp knife, cut the baby from the main plant along with the roots.
A young echmea must have small healthy roots, otherwise it will not survive. Plant the young plant in a separate pot, lightly compact the soil with your palms and moisten it.
We look at the video for propagating echmea by shoots:
As you can see, propagating echmea at home is not particularly difficult. It’s extremely easy to get new plants; the main thing is to follow the simple rules of agricultural technology.
Aechmea from seeds
Aechmea can be propagated by seeds, which are sown in loose peat soil or crushed fern roots.
You can simply sow on the surface, distributing it as little as possible, and then press the seeds into the ground, pressing lightly with your palm. You can lightly sprinkle the seeds with a thin layer of soil. Moisturize abundantly, but without stagnation of water. It’s good to use a spray bottle, so you definitely won’t pour in excess water.
When sprouts appear, the bag can be removed or ventilated every day until the plants rise a little.
After 3 months, the seedlings are planted in individual pots and grown for about a year. Aechmea, especially its leaves, is slightly poisonous and if touched or pricked by a thorn, you can cause skin irritation; use rubber gloves when replanting plants.
Pests and care errors
The most common reason for the poor condition of bromeliads is incorrect. In summer, light shading is necessary. Burn spots of a pale brown color appear from the sun's rays. The tips of the leaves dry out due to low air humidity. The roots rot when the substrate becomes waterlogged. Hard water causes the tips of leaf blades to dry out.
On the echmea you can find scale insects and scale insects. Adults are removed manually with a cotton swab. Further spread can be prevented by wiping the leaves with a cotton swab moistened with ordinary vodka or diluted alcohol. Pre-test this product on one sheet. If after a day no changes appear on the leaf, treat the entire plant 3 times with an interval of 5 days. This is usually enough to get rid of insect larvae.
Prejudices, signs and superstitions about echmea
Echmeya is useful for absent-minded, indecisive people, those who have many desires and plans, but who cannot begin to act. It will help those who feel lonely and are languishing in this loneliness, clearing the atmosphere of apathy and melancholy.
When it stays in the house for a long time, it affects the atmosphere, releasing fluids into it, as a result of which the iron content in the blood of household members increases.
It can reduce the duration of sleep, even if you sleep far from the plant - vigor and a surge of strength will accompany you all day. Helps people with a violent character cope with their emotions, balances the human psyche, increases the body's adaptability to various conditions, speeds up the digestion of food, increasing metabolism.
It protects the owner from the anger and greed of those who come with bad intentions, performing the function of a kind of amulet. How much benefit and positive emotions you will get if you have one of their ehmeys. And with just a little effort, caring for it, you will admire again and again the excellent appearance of this plant, which will become your true friend.
Types of echmea with description and photo
All types and forms of echmea feel great in apartments and offices, tolerate dry air well, and bloom for a long time. Artificially bred hybrids are more beautiful and stable, and are easier to care for, since they were initially adapted to the artificial environment - it is native to them.
Aechmea striped Aechmea fasciata
It originated from Northern Argentina, where it was discovered in 1826. It has green grooved leaves, collected in a funnel-shaped rosette, with transverse whitish stripes. The pink peduncle stretching from the center contrasts favorably with them. The flowers are purple, in a spherical inflorescence, between crimson perianths. There are varieties with solid green, marbled or yellowish-malachite leaf blades.
Striped echmea blooms only once in a lifetime; the buds open one after another on the inflorescence and remain on the plant for some time. At the end of flowering, the leaf rosette gradually withers and dries up, and at least two, and sometimes three young shoots are formed at its base. Dieback lasts about 3 months. The dead mother plant is thrown away, and the young rosettes are planted in separate pots. Their maturity will come no earlier than in a year or a year and a half with decent care.
Aechmea fulgens
Another type suitable. The leaves of this plant are bright emerald with a reddish reverse side, and the inflorescence is in the form of a brush with scarlet bracts and purple flowers. The plant lives for 2-3 years, depending on when it blooms. You can speed up this process if you place a ripe apple or banana near the funnel; they release gas - ethylene, which stimulates the formation of ovaries. After flowering, red berries that do not fall off for a long time are formed on the panicles.
Aechmea chantinii
The leaves have dark greenish perpendicular stripes. The plates themselves are curved in an arc, with jagged edges. Dark orange petals bend back to reveal golden buds.
Aechmea weilbachii Aechmea weilbachii
Originally from Brazil. Emerald grooved leaves with sparse needles along the edge make up a goblet-shaped rosette. Bluish-lilac flowers adorn the flower from March to August. Grows well in hydroponics.
Aechmea nudicaulis
Native to the mountainous regions of Mexico. The leaves are hard, tongue-shaped, rounded on top. Peduncle with a thin coating and imbricated reddish leaves. The flowers are golden.
Aechmea lueddemanniana
The leaves are pointed, with curved spines along the edge, as if covered with whitish scales. The panicle of pale crimson or azure petals rises 12-30 cm above the leaves. Produces bluish berries. Grows on rocky soils.
Aechmea sky blue Aechmea coelestis photo
Reaches a height of 1 m in flowering state. It lives in the forests of Mexico in gravelly places.
Aechmea pubescens
Native to Central and South America, the rosette consists of greyish-green leaves mottled with whitish scales underneath. The spikelets consist of two rows of buds.
Aechmea gamosepala
A plant with fantastic flowers: tubular pink flowers with blue edges are densely arranged on a long peduncle. There are also other colors, such as coral and white. Long flowering gives a truly fabulous spectacle. The decorative effect is enhanced by the shiny, leathery leaves of a dark green, rich color.
Aechmea orlandiana
Wide leaves with multi-colored stripes are collected in an elegant rosette, topped with a long coral peduncle with yellow flowers.
Aechmea Samurai
A flower of amazing beauty: lemon-yellow stripes of leaves interspersed with dark green on the upper part of the leaf blade. The lower part of the leaves is additionally painted with light emerald horizontal stripes. A long coral peduncle with wide bracts is topped with large yellow flowers.
Aechmea tessmannii Aechmea tessmannii
A very large plant, it produces a fantastic shape with massive bracts collected in splayed panicles. Coral-yellow bracts are set off by small dark brown flowers.
Aechmea biflora
The long, bright orange-yellow leaves have a glossy sheen and finely toothed edges. The short peduncle is quite massive, yellow bracts are set off by dark violet-gray flowers.
Aechmea Starbrite
An exotic beauty with wide, long leaves. The waxy sheen of the leathery light green leaves is slightly offset by a light white coating. The peduncles are massive, with voluminous panicles of bracts.
The amazing tropical plant Aechmea will create an atmosphere of peace and goodwill in your home, clear away negative energy and drive away melancholy. It attracts lovers of indoor plants with its unusual appearance, for which it received its name (Aechmea - translated as “spike tip”).
Its long, belt-shaped leaves have small spines along the edges, and the bracts are peak-shaped. Aechmea belongs to the bromeliad family and has more than 200 species. This plant is an epiphyte and in the wild usually grows on trees, rocks or in crevices, forming vegetative, easily rooted shoots. Its breeding does not require much trouble.
Unusual appearance and, most of all, very beautiful flowers of unusual shapes and different shades will decorate any apartment, winter or summer garden. It blooms only once, then the rosette dies.
Planting echmea
Planting echmea is possible in two ways.
Planting methods
Usually, after a flowering period, an adult plant produces shoots - children. In order for the baby to be ready for transplantation, it must grow to 13–20 centimeters, only after that it will be viable and can be transplanted.
You can grow echmea from seeds. They are planted in loose peat soil and placed in a place where the temperature does not exceed + 25 degrees. Seedlings should not be exposed to bright sunlight. The trays where the seeds are planted are covered with a transparent lid to create a greenhouse effect. Keep the shoots at a temperature not lower than +20. After a couple of months, the seedlings can be planted in separate pots. Seedlings require frequent spraying with soft water through a very fine sprayer. At the end of the year after sowing, the plant is transplanted into ordinary soil and a convenient pot.
Boarding time
The optimal time for planting seeds is April; it is better to plant children in March.
Soil for the plant (soil composition)
- Nowadays you can buy ready-made soil for bromeliads, but you can prepare it yourself. The ideal soil for echmea is compost, chopped moss and leaf soil in equal parts, mixed with a small amount of sand and expanded clay. Soil made from peat, moss and sand is also suitable.
Important! If you grow echmea from babies, flowering will begin in about a year or two. If done from seeds, it will begin to bloom in 3-4 years.
Careful care of the plant ensures long flowering. Features of care relate to lighting, watering, humidity and temperature conditions.
Location and lighting for the plant
Direct sunlight is contraindicated for Aechmea. Therefore, the best place for this home flower will be the east and west sides. If the plant is located on a south window, it should be shaded during the midday hours.
In summer, echmea can be placed in the open air. Its different species react differently to sunlight. Aechmea curved loves bright light, and Aechmea sparkling prefers partial shade. In general, you can place flowers based on the leaves. A plant with thick, leathery leaves prefers a brighter place, while a plant with soft leaves prefers a more shaded place.
Humidity
Aechmea tolerates low humidity normally, but increasing it will have a beneficial effect on its growth and flowering. In winter, when the indoor air is dry due to heating, it requires constant spraying. To increase humidity, place the flower pot in a tray lined with small pebbles and pour water into it so that it hides the bottom of the pot.
Important! The grayish coating on the leaves of echmea is special microscopic scales that retain moisture. You should not wipe the leaves very thoroughly, otherwise the scales will wear off and the plant will suffer from more intense loss of moisture, especially in a room with dry air.
How to water correctly
In summer, echmea requires more watering. The leaf funnel should be filled with water carefully, only in the summer and no more than 1 – 2 times a week, so that it does not rot. First, a small amount of water is poured into the funnel, then the soil is watered.
In autumn, the frequency of watering is reduced and the funnel is left dry. In winter, you can practically stop watering by simply spraying the plant and pouring water into the pan. Then the flower itself will be able to regulate the consumption of the moisture it needs.
Important! If the water is hard, it can be softened with citric acid (3-4 grams per 10 liters of water).
Temperature regime for the plant
The ideal temperature is +20 – + 25 degrees. Although some types of echmea do well at +18 and even +16 degrees. Drafts have a bad effect on the plant; there is a risk of freezing its root system.
The difference in night and day temperatures has a good effect on the sparkling echmea. With daytime temperatures around +25 degrees, night temperatures can be lowered to +6. It is advisable to ventilate the room.
Feeding and fertilizing the flower
In order for the plant to bloom better, it should be fertilized constantly throughout the year. In spring and summer, echmea needs to be fed more often - once every 2 weeks, in the fall once a month, in winter it should be reduced to once every one and a half months. There are special fertilizers for bromeliads, but you can also use regular fertilizers for flowering indoor plants. In this case, for echmea, the dosage should be halved.
The fertilizer is dissolved in water for irrigation.
Aechmea is pruned only after flowering. The peduncle, as a rule, separates itself from the rosette; it does not need to be trimmed. Only the withered, faded rosette needs to be trimmed. We do not touch the leaves unless they die. The plant must first produce children.
Aechmea transplant
Aechmea can be replanted once a year or a year and a half. We replant in case of large leaf growth, when the pot with the plant may tip over. In this case, we simply take a flower pot of larger diameter and replant it using the transshipment method. Aechmea is a moisture-loving plant, so good drainage is vital for it. Before transplanting, you need to lay a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot, only then pour in the soil mixture.
Transplant methods
You need to carefully remove the plant from the old pot and lightly shake off the earthen lump from below. Some gardeners prefer to mix the plant's old habitual soil with new soil, as they believe this will reduce the stress of replanting. Having strengthened the flower in the pot, you need to fill it with a mixture of old and new soil or just new soil.
Reproduction of echmea
Aechmea reproduces by shoots that sprout after the plant has finished flowering. Children should grow to 13 - 20 centimeters, ideally up to half of the mother plant. When separating the baby from the mother, on an adult plant, the cut area should be powdered with crushed activated carbon. When planting echmea in the form of children, you need to know the following:
- Planting is done in a low pot of small diameter
- Drainage from expanded clay or broken brick is required at the bottom of the flower pot.
- The substrate should be light, loose and moist
- The plant should be covered with film for a short time
After the shoot has rooted, it is cared for like an adult echmea.
Some gardeners do not separate the baby echmea, but wait until the mother plant dies and carefully remove it. In this case, the shoots do not suffer from transplantation.
Aechmea flowering
Aechmea blooms only once, but for a long time. If the echmea does not bloom for a long time, this process can be stimulated. Ripe apples, citrus fruits or bananas emit ethylene gas, which contributes to the rapid flowering of echmea. The plant can be covered with polyethylene, placing a couple of ripe apples or pieces of banana peel under it, and leave them for 10 days. This will help the flower bloom in the next 3 to 4 months.
Different types of echmea have different flowering periods. This is mainly winter, spring and summer. The flower shape is most often racemose.
Plant care after flowering
At the end of flowering and after cutting off the faded parts, we care for the plant as usual in anticipation of the children who will continue the life of the flower when it dies.
Problems, diseases and pests of a flower
- The beautiful decorative color on the leaves disappears and brown spots appear on them
The plant is exposed to prolonged sunlight. It should either be moved or shaded during the sunniest time of the day.
- The tips of the leaves dry out
Drying leaf tips may indicate insufficient watering or insufficient air humidity. The plant should be sprayed more often.
- Leaves or roots rot
Rotting of the plant is associated with excess water. You should reduce watering and make sure that water does not stagnate in the leaf funnel (according to many experts, it is better to keep it dry).
Pests that attack Aechmea are mealybugs, rootbugs, scale insects, aphids and spider mites.
- Scale insects and aphids leaves are affected, they curl and turn yellow, plant growth slows down. If the number of insects is small, they can be removed with a rag moistened with alcohol or soap solution. If the plant is severely affected, treatment with karbofos is necessary (carefully wipe the leaves on both sides).
- Mealybug also harms the leaves, they lose their color, especially variegated leaves. Infection with mealybugs is accompanied by the development of a fungal disease. The leaves become covered with a film and practically lose their ability to assimilate. The pest should be dealt with in the same way as with the scale insect.
- Root mealybug affects the root system and leads to its decay. If the pest is detected in time and the root system can still be saved, the plant is treated with corbofos.
- Spider mite causes a lot of trouble for flower growers. Due to the fact that it multiplies very quickly, the plant becomes entangled in its web. It looks like brown spots on the leaves that begin to dry out and fall off under a layer of cobwebs. Frequent spraying with warm water and treatment with an insecticide will save the echmea.
Important! Pour the insecticide solution only into the ground. Avoid getting the solution into the socket!
Not all types of echmea are common as a house flower. They differ from each other in the shape of inflorescences and leaves. Care for these species is approximately the same.
Aechmea fasciata
It is also called striped echmea for its green leaves with a grayish tint with transverse white or silver stripes. The leaves are dense and wide. Its bluish flowers look very impressive on a bright pink bract. It is considered one of the best ornamental plants of all types of indoor echmea. It is good for cultivation in temperate climates and with proper care it blooms for a long time. Flowering period is winter.
Aechmea weilbachii
It has long narrow soft leaves and a racemose inflorescence. The peduncle, about 45 centimeters high, is usually bright red in color, strewn with small leaves. The flowers are bluish-lilac. This species is thermophilic; for a comfortable state it needs a temperature of at least 18 degrees. Blooms in winter.
Aechmea distichantha
Quite a large plant - the leaf rosette can grow up to 1 meter in diameter, and the leaves reach a length of up to 50 centimeters. The leaves, up to 3 centimeters wide, are green. The tall peduncle is topped with purple flowers on bright red bracts. Blooms in winter.
Aechmea comata
A plant with dense light green leaves, tightly adjacent to each other and forming a leaf rosette. A spike-shaped inflorescence with bright yellow flowers. The bracts are bright red. Flowering period is winter.
Aechmea recurvata
This species is distinguished by long narrow leaves that grow together into a tube at the bottom. The flowers and bracts are red, the peduncle is tall, stretching straight from the center of the rosette. Flowering time is spring.
Matte red Aechmea (Aechmea miniata)
A plant with elongated leaves up to 55 centimeters long and up to 4 centimeters wide, tapering towards the base in the form of a gutter. Racemose inflorescence with very beautiful red-blue flowers. Of all the species, perhaps the most unpretentious. Flowering period is summer.
Aechmea fulgens
Its long light green leaves are covered with a grayish coating, a rather tall peduncle is topped with a brush-shaped inflorescence. The flowers are very beautiful and have a purple tint. The height of the plant is about 40 centimeters. Flowering period is spring and summer.
When stimulating the flowering of echmea with the help of ripe fruits, do not tightly seal the polyethylene, otherwise the plant may suffocate
If dust and small debris have accumulated in the leaf outlet, it should be washed with warm water.
Water the echmea with water slightly above room temperature
The lifespan of echmea after it has faded is 6 – 12 months. During this time, the plant gives birth to children, and the old flower dies.
Is it possible to keep Aechmea at home?
Ekhmeya lives well in an apartment. It is often used to decorate office premises.
Is Aechmea poisonous?
In general, this plant species is moderately poisonous and cannot harm humans, with the exception of striped aechmea. This species is more poisonous than its counterparts, so it is better to wear gloves when handling and caring for the flower. Touching the leaves can cause skin inflammation.
Aechmea does not bloom. Why?
Perhaps the store sold you a plant that has already bloomed. The second reason may be disruptions in care. Perhaps the flower does not have enough light, watering, humidity or heat. If the flower is healthy, try a flowering stimulator.
Why do Aechmea leaves turn yellow?
Yellowed leaves may be the result of damage to the flower by a pest - scale insects or aphids. Carefully inspect the plant and remove insects.
How does Echmea survive winter?
Like any indoor plant, in winter it requires less watering and feeding. Temperature range from +18 to +25 degrees. Drafts are prohibited, but ventilation is recommended. Due to the increased dryness of indoor air in winter, frequent spraying of the plant is recommended.
Exotic echmea has certain requirements for conditions of detention. It is unlikely that a novice florist will be able to cope with growing this obstinate beauty. However, with proper care, this plant looks very impressive and grows well. And extraordinary flowers will delight both you and your family.
Appearance and other characteristic features of Echmea
Aechmea is a genus of perennial epiphytic plants belonging to the Bromeliaceae family. Aechmeas are close relatives of pineapples. The homeland of the vast majority of the currently known 270 species is Brazil, Mexico and islands in the Caribbean.
The genus owes its name to the unusual shape of the bracts. Translated from Greek, aechme means “spearhead.” Consonant aichme - “dot”, “dash”. Perhaps the name also refers to the presence of a pattern on the leaves of some species.
In nature, echmeas rarely grow on the ground. Being epiphytes, they attach to tree trunks and snags, releasing additional aerial roots to absorb moisture from the atmosphere.
The plant is a dense goblet-shaped rosette of smooth, succulent leaves, leathery, erect or soft, drooping. They are shaped like belts. Along the edge of the leaf blade there is a continuous border of fairly hard spines. You can also prick yourself on the tips of the petals. The stem is so short that it appears to be completely absent.
In nature, echmea leaves are covered with a silver-gray coating, similar to developed rot. These hairs also help absorb moisture from the air. At home, they are almost invisible, especially if the flower is in the shade. During the rainy season, water that stagnates in the outlet for a long time mixes with wind-borne plant debris, insect larvae, and organic residues. As a result, “suspended swamps” are formed on the trees, in which plants and even small amphibians settle and successfully exist. The bromeliad crab has adapted well to breeding in such a reservoir.
A long peduncle emerges from the middle of the rosette. It may be covered with scales. The color of both the leaf plate and the flowers varies depending on the type of plant, but this does not affect the overall decorativeness of the echmea. It is invariably beautiful, regardless of whether the leaves are plain or have a pattern on them.
The inflorescence of echmea is spike-shaped or panicle-shaped. The sepals are covered with short soft “lint”. Between them are protruding bracts, painted in bright shades of pink and red. Small flowers are “hidden” in them. In nature, echmeas bloom from late spring to mid-autumn; at home, flowers can appear in winter. They quickly wither, leaving only the bracts.
After flowering, the rosette dies. But before death, the echmea necessarily produces offspring in the form of several daughter rosettes formed alternately. They take root easily, so there is no shortage of planting material. We can rather predict its excess. Aechmea seeds can also be successfully propagated at home. After flowering, a berry is formed.
The leaves of one of the most popular species in indoor floriculture, striped echmea, contain moderately poisonous juice, which can cause irritation and redness if the skin on the hands is overly sensitive. To avoid damage, wear rubber gloves when working with flowers.
Recently, there has been a fashion to give echmea as a “living bouquet”. If you decide to purchase such a gift, choose a plant in which the entire peduncle and bracts have acquired the characteristic shade of the variety. Otherwise the flowers will not bloom.
Video about the plant
Types grown at home
Quite a few different types of echmea have been “domesticated”. The most popular:
- Aechmea striped (Fasciata, fasciata). The height of the rosette is about 50 cm, the diameter is about 1 m. The leaf length is 60 cm, width is 6–7 cm. The flowers are initially purple, then change color to blue-scarlet. The popular Primera hybrid has a more contrasting pattern and crisp stripes.
- Aechmea Weilbachii (weilbachii). The leaves are leathery, but soft, about 50 cm long. The spines are quite small and not at all hard. The slight reddish tint of the leaf is normal. The peduncle is covered with crimson scales. Along the edge of the bluish-lilac petals there is a snow-white border. The length of the inflorescence is about 15 cm.
- Aechmea two-row (distichantha). The rosette is wide, not too dense. It reaches 0.8–1 m in diameter. The spines on the leaves are chocolate-colored and located very often. Compared to the length (50 cm), the width is small (3–4 cm). The leaves are monochromatic, but there is a breeding hybrid Variegata, which has a wide border of a creamy shade along the edge.
- Aechmea curved (recurvata). In nature it can exist both as an epiphyte and as a terrestrial plant. There are few leaves in the rosette (7–12 pieces), length - 35–40 cm, width 1.5–2 cm. They grow together from below, forming a “glass stem”. The height of the peduncle is no more than 25 cm. This species, unlike most of its “relatives,” blooms in the spring. There is a miniature natural variety of Ortgiesii (rosette height no more than 15 cm).
- Aechmea shaggy (comata), or Linden (lindenii). The length of the leaf is about 1 m with a width of 5–7 cm. At the top, the leaf plate does not become pointed, but is rounded. The flowers are a sunny yellow color, unusual for Aechmea. In nature it blooms in winter. The Makoyana hybrid has leaves with a pattern of cream stripes.
- Aechmea matte red (miniata). The rosette is assembled from many leaves. The leaf length is about 45 cm, width - 2–3 cm. At the base, the leaves are inky purple, then this shade gradually turns into a dark green color. The peduncle is bright scarlet. The inflorescence is shaped like a pyramid. The species is distinguished by its flowering duration, unpretentiousness and endurance.
- Echmea tailed, or bearded (caudata). The leaves are rigid, growing almost horizontally, at a slight angle. There is a yellowish stripe along the edge of the leaf blade. The inflorescence is panicle-shaped. The peduncle is covered with a whitish coating, as if sprinkled with flour.
- Aechmea Lueddemaniana. The leaves on both sides are covered with small light scales. Length - 55–60 cm. Peduncle height - about 70 cm. It is covered with thin translucent leaves. The lower ones fit tightly to it, the upper ones bend slightly. The bluish-pink petals gradually change color to crimson.
- Aechmea sky blue, or blue (coelestis). The number of leaves in the funnel varies from 9 to 20. Leaf length is 65 cm, width is 3–5 cm. The peduncle and inflorescence are covered with white “fluff”. Blooms at the beginning of winter.
- Aechmea Orlanda (orlandiana). A creation of nature, although it’s hard to believe. The leaf length is about 35 cm, width - 4–5 cm. The leaves are covered with scales, the spines along the edge are almost black. The peduncle is bright scarlet. More demanding of heat than other echmeas. In nature, the species is considered extinct, surviving only “in captivity.”
- Aechmea Chantina (chantinii). The length of the leaf, depending on the conditions, reaches 0.5–1 m. There are few of them in the rosette. Due to the fact that the leaves stand almost vertically, it resembles a cylinder. The peduncle is covered with bright scarlet leaves and seems to be sprinkled with flour.
- Aechmea Queen Mary (mariae-reginae). One of the most spectacular, but extremely rare. The plant has specimens with “male” and “female” flowers. In nature, pollen is carried by hummingbirds; at home, artificial pollination is required. The cone-shaped inflorescence is about 50 cm long and covered with soft white “hairs”. The bracts also reach significant sizes - 20 cm in length.
In nature, echmeas suffer little from cold and prolonged droughts. Much more harm comes to them from people who cut down tropical forests for mining, timber harvesting, and planting crops. In many countries of South America, certain species of echmea are included in the Red Books or lists.
Species diversity in the photo
Aechmea Chantin has an unusual rosette configuration 
Aechmea Orlanda - a spectacular creation of nature 
Aechmea sky blue blooms in winter - unlike most of its “relatives” 
Echmea Luddemana changes the shade of its petals during flowering 
A whitish coating on the peduncle of Aechmea caudatus is normal 
When you look at the flower, it’s immediately clear why the matte red echmea was called that way 
Aechmea shaggy flowers have a color unusual for the genus. 
Aechmea curved takes up relatively little space 
Aechmea two-row - a base for experiments by breeders 
The leaves of Aechmea Weilbach may appear slightly red. 
Aechmea striped is the most common species in home floriculture.
At home, the echmea is accustomed to a microclimate that is significantly different from the conditions of a modern apartment. It will not be possible to completely recreate the desired conditions for a flower without harm to those living in the room, but it is quite possible to provide an acceptable environment. It is necessary to approach the solution of the problem comprehensively - each of the factors is equally important.
| Factor | Recommendations |
| Location | A window sill facing western or eastern direction is suitable. If there is no space there, place the flower in the back of the room, but in such a way as to provide access to fresh air. In the summer, you can take the pot out into the open air, gradually accustoming it to a change in its environment. Take care of protection from drafts and precipitation. |
| Lighting | The plant must be protected from direct sunlight and provided with 14–16 hours of daylight. For protection, a light translucent fabric or blinds is sufficient. A special phytolamp is placed at a distance of 30–50 cm above the pot, turning it on in cloudy weather and in winter. Variegatedly colored echmeas require more light; species with monochromatic leaves will tolerate light partial shade. |
| Temperature | In spring and summer, the temperature is maintained at +22...+28 ºС, in winter it is lowered to +19...+21 ºС. 17 ºС is the survival threshold of echmea. Significant differences between day and night temperatures in winter stimulate the development of peduncles. |
| Humidity | The factor is not critical for growing echmea. It survives in the dry air of modern apartments without additional measures. But in order for the flower to grow faster, it is recommended to spray it daily with heated water, place other plants nearby, add expanded clay or pebbles to the tray, followed by periodic wetting. However, in Aechmea curved, when there is a lack of light and high humidity, the leaves fade. |
How to transplant echmea?
Aechmeas need to be replanted every spring, during March. The pot annually increases in diameter by a maximum of 1–2 cm. You can also take a container of the same size. This is due to the fact that faded echmea rosettes inevitably die off. The root system of the plant is underdeveloped, so it is better to choose pots that look like a bowl. A prerequisite is the presence of a large drainage hole.
On sale there is a special soil for Bromeliads or orchids. You can add crushed sphagnum moss or small pieces of charcoal to it, and it is quite suitable for growing echmea. If you want to mix the substrate yourself, use one of the following options:
- Fertile garden turf (top 15–20 cm of soil), universal soil for indoor plants, leaf humus, coarse river sand or perlite, vermiculite (2:2:1:1).
- Humus, crushed sphagnum moss, leaf soil (1:1:1). A useful additive is fine crumbs from old red bricks.
- Peat chips, sand or vermiculite, crushed fir bark (1:1:1).
More exotic options are finely chopped fern rhizomes and sphagnum moss (3:1) or crushed conifer bark and charcoal (equal parts) to a powder.
Transplant procedure:
- Place a 2–3 cm thick layer of drainage on the bottom of the pot (about a third of the container’s volume). On top - 1–2 cm of substrate.
- Remove the echmea from the old pot and gently shake the soil from the roots. Trim dead rosettes and dry roots.
- Sprinkle all sections with powdered activated carbon and let dry for 2–3 hours. Place the plant in a new pot, add soil without compacting it. You can distribute it evenly by shaking the pot several times.
- Place the transplanted echmea in the shade for 2–3 days. The first watering is after returning to the “place of registration”.
In principle, the interval between transplants can be increased to 2 years, provided that an optimal microclimate is created for the plant, proper watering and regular application of fertilizers. Focus on the appearance of the echmea. If there is no deterioration in it, postpone the transplant.
Proper flower care
Watering
Proper watering is critical for the aechmea to feel comfortable. Depending on the temperature outside and indoors during the active growing season, the flower is watered moderately every 2-3 days. In extreme heat, the leaves on both sides are sprayed daily, water is poured not only into the soil, but also into the funnel (it evaporates in 3–4 days). Aechmea categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture, so 20–30 minutes after watering, excess water is drained from the pan.
Only soft, settled water is suitable for echmea. It is advisable to pass the one that flows from the tap through a filter. If this is not possible, throw a few citric acid crystals into the container. The water is heated so that its temperature is slightly higher than in the room.
Fertilizer application
During the active growing season, echmea is fed with complex fertilizer for Bromeliads, strictly observing the dosage prescribed by the manufacturer, or with universal products for flowering indoor plants in half the concentration.
How to make echmea bloom?
In nature, a new rosette of Aechmea blooms in 4–5 years. But at home, flowering can be achieved faster or “moved” to any convenient time.
To do this, place the pot with the plant in a loosely tied plastic bag, placing next to it several apples, pears, and bananas cut into pieces. Waste - peels, cores - will also work. Ripe fruits release ethylene, which stimulates flowering. After 1.5–2 weeks, the echmea is returned to its original place. Flowers will appear in about 4 months.
Blooming amazing echmea - video
Rest period
The rest period in Aechmea is rather weakly expressed; some species do without it altogether. For the winter, the plant is moved to a cooler, but also bright room, and only the soil in the pot is watered once every 5–7 days. No water is poured into the funnel. Fertilizers are applied approximately once every 1.5 months. You can spray the surrounding air, but not more than once a week.
Secrets and subtleties of care - video
Typical mistakes of flower growers
The echmea immediately signals that something in the actions of the florist does not suit her by changing her appearance. It is important to learn to “read” the signs given to her and react to them correctly.
Common problems when growing echmea - table
| Description of the problem | What is the reason? |
| Leaves turn brown and dry out | If the discoloration spreads from the tips, the room is too cold; if from the base of the leaf, the echmea has begun to rot (the reason is abundant watering in combination with low temperature). |
| No flowering | In variegated species, the most likely cause is a lack of light. At the same time, as a rule, the leaves begin to fall. Single-color echmeas need to be fed more often or more suitable fertilizers are selected. |
| Plain leaves fade, the pattern disappears | The plant received sunburn. Choose a place for it protected from direct sunlight. |
| The leaves lose their tone, become wrinkled, droop, and the tips dry out. | Echmea lacks moisture. This may also apply to air humidity and too infrequent watering. |
| Leaves turn yellow | Aechmea was planted in an unsuitable substrate that does not allow moisture and air to pass through well. Another possible reason is a shortage of fertilizers or a pest attack. |
How to deal with diseases and pests?
Aechmea pests are typical of indoor plants and are familiar to most gardeners with at least minimal experience. There is no need to remove any insects “brought” by the flower from its historical homeland.
Diseases and pests typical for Aechmea - table
| Disease or pest | External manifestations | How to get rid of and prevent its occurrence? |
| Insects of different colors (from pale green to almost black) adhere to the leaves from below, feeding on the sap of the plant. The leaves become deformed, curl, turn yellow and fall off. At the same time, a sugary, cloudy liquid appears. | Visible pests are wiped off with a soft cloth soaked in 40% ethyl alcohol or acetic acid, a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then thick soap suds are applied to the leaves and after half an hour the flower is given a hot (40–45 ºC) shower. When the water has drained, the echmea is sprayed with an insecticide (Neoron, Aktara, Karate, Inta-Vir, FAS, Decis) and tied in a bag for 2-3 days. Chemicals can be replaced with turpentine or kerosene (0.5 teaspoon per liter of water), placing the container next to the pot and covering them with a bag. A good preventative measure is weekly spraying with infusions of any herbs that have a strong specific odor, tobacco chips, dry citrus peel, hot pepper. |
|
| Shchitovka | The leaves are covered with brownish or grayish growths in the shape of an ellipse. At first they are almost flat, but quickly swell. The area around it turns red or yellow. With massive damage, the soil becomes almost black. | Visible individuals are smeared with acetic acid, kerosene, alcohol or turpentine using a cotton swab and removed without effort after 2-3 hours. The leaves are wiped with soapy foam or washed in the shower. Effective insecticides - Bankol, Actellik, Arrivo, Permethrin. Less toxic flea remedies - Butox, Entomozan (1.5 liter ampoule of water) have an unexpectedly good effect. For prevention, once every 1.5–2 weeks, flowers are sprayed with an infusion of hot pepper pods, garlic or tobacco crumbs. A rather controversial method is fumigation with cigarette smoke. |
| Root mealybug | Small whitish lumps appear at the roots, similar to pellets of cotton wool or poplar fluff. In case of massive damage, the soil moves away from the edges of the pot, and a border of a whitish wax-like substance appears. The leaves fade, droop and fall off. | The best prevention is to use sterilized soil and pots. Severely damaged echmea, together with a lump of earth, is removed from the pot and placed for 10–15 minutes in a container with hot (50–55 ºС) water (it should completely cover the roots). Then the flower is dried for 24 hours and replanted. Water for irrigation is replaced every 10–12 days with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm, Karbofos, Fozalon, Inta-Vir in half concentration. |
| Fusarium | The leaves lose their tone, yellow spots of irregular shape appear on them. Yellowness spreads from bottom to top. An almost transparent, as if watery, border appears along the edge of the leaf blade. Then the yellow spots change color to brown, and an unpleasant putrid odor appears. | The development of fusarium is promoted by stagnation of water in the soil and increased air humidity. Ventilate the room more often. Do not use soil that is too heavy or easily acidifies for echmea and be sure to sterilize it before replanting. For prevention, water the plants with Fitosporin-M once a week. Having discovered a disease, use Vectra, Agat-25K, Benomyl, Fundazol, Baktofit, Vitaros strictly according to the instructions. |
Typical diseases and insect pests in the photo
The durable shell of the scale insect causes the low effectiveness of folk remedies in pest control
Aphids can settle on any indoor plant, echmea is no exception. Reproduction
Rooting daughter rosettes
After flowering, the echmea rosette dies. But not immediately, but after first forming several subsidiaries. New plants will bloom in 2-3 years. The only suitable time for landing is March.
- Wait until the daughter outlet reaches half or 2/3 the size of the mother outlet.
- Carefully separate the “baby”, trying to injure the adult plant as little as possible. Treat sections or separation areas with activated carbon powder, crushed chalk, and colloidal sulfur. It is best to do this during the next transplant.
- Plant the rosettes (with or without roots) in individual pots with a diameter of 5–9 cm, filled with any substrate suitable for adult echmea.
- For 2–3 weeks, keep them under a cover made from a glass jar or cut-off plastic bottle, and moisten the substrate as they dry. Ventilate the greenhouse daily. All conditions are the same as for adult plants. When roots appear, move to a permanent place and care for it as usual.
How to transplant “babies” at home - video
Germination of seeds
Aechmea seeds are easy to purchase or collect yourself. You will have to wait 4–5 years for flowering. Varietal characteristics are not always preserved. This is especially true for variegated colors.
- Shallow flat containers are filled with a mixture of peat and sand. The substrate is moderately moistened.
- The seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil, buried 0.5–1 mm, and covered with glass or film.
- “Greenhouses” are placed in a bright place, but not under bright sun, and provide a constant temperature of +23...+25 ºС. The plantings are ventilated daily for 7–10 minutes. As the soil dries, spray it with a spray bottle.
- After 3–4 months, the seedlings are transplanted into individual containers. The substrate is a mixture of peat and humus. The temperature is maintained at least +20...+22 ºС. Plantings are regularly sprayed, preventing the soil from drying out, and protected from direct sunlight.
- After a year, adult echmeas are planted in soil for adult plants and cared for accordingly.
The Aechmea plant belongs to the bromeliad family. Many gardeners love it for its unusual appearance, rich colors and unpretentiousness to the climate, which is why it is so often found in our apartments. The flower itself is native to Central and South America and comes in more than 170 species. Aechmea is a rather ornamental plant.
At home, Aechmea Striped, which was brought from Brazil, is most often grown. This plant is characterized by flowers of extraordinary beauty. The buds themselves are surrounded by shiny pink leaves. Large leaves with a “gray”, “striped” color also attract attention. It is worth noting that the plant is very large, and you need to first think about its placement indoors. Caring for Echmea will be especially convenient in the winter garden.
Ekhmeya - care.
The peculiarity of Aechmea is that it blooms only once, and then the mother plant produces several children that live on the “mother” for a long time. After which they are separated and grown in separate flowerpots.
Temperature. Aechmea does not like cold, so it must be grown exclusively in warmth. In summer, the acceptable temperature for it is +20-26 degrees, in winter - about +14-17. Changes in day-night temperatures stimulate flowering. Like many plants, it benefits from fresh air and regular ventilation, but not drafts.
Lighting. The lighting should be bright. Aechmea is one of the few plants that can withstand direct sunlight, although, of course, it is better to shade it a little in the afternoon.
Watering. For Aechmea Striped, watering is very important, and the method of watering is different from other indoor plants. Water it at the root and into the outlet. Watering at the root is done as the substrate dries (by 2-3 cm) (watering is reduced in winter).
Watering into the outlet is carried out only until the peduncle appears, then it is stopped! Produced only at air temperatures above 20 C, otherwise the socket may rot. It is advisable that the water be at room temperature or slightly warmer, settled or filtered. You cannot leave water in the outlet for a long time. After a couple of days, if the water has not dried, you need to change it - carefully soak out the old water and pour in new one. For one such watering, use 10-20 g of water. You can also spray the leaves, then the water will flow into the Aechmea outlet.
This plant loves spraying (even every day) and moist air. Supplement your care for Echmea with this procedure, and she will thank you with bright blooms.
Echmea fertilizer. Echmea Striped responds best to fertilizer by spraying the leaves with a solution of low-concentrated fertilizer for orchids and bromeliads. If it is not possible to buy a ready-made solution, you can use root fertilizer at a concentration twice as low.
Soil. The ideal soil for Aechmea is a ready-made mixture for forest cacti or bromeliads. In addition, the flower develops well in a mixture of fern and sphagnum roots in a ratio of three to one. An alternative to it can be soil made from humus, peat, sphagnum, sand in proportions 1: 1: 1: 0.5. There you also need to add a little charcoal, horn shavings and very high-quality drainage.
Reproduction. As already noted, Aechmea blooms once, three to four years after planting. After bright, long-lasting flowering, the faded peduncle must be carefully removed from the rosette of leaves and the plant itself must be transplanted into a larger pot. After some time, with proper care, one to three babies will appear at the bottom of the outlet.
We continue caring for Ehmeya Striped in the same way until the babies grow almost to the size of “mother” (the bigger the better). Now they can be planted. Unfortunately, the mother plant only lives for two to four years after flowering. But the resulting babies will delight you with new, inimitable blooms!
Aechmea is a perennial herbaceous plant from the bromeliad family, which has more than 300 varieties. The homeland of Aechmea is considered to be South and Central America. The name “echmea” takes its roots from the Greek word “aechme”, [ehme] - the tip of a pike. The plant probably received this name because of the pointed, peak-shaped shape of the bracts.
All types of plants are heat-loving and prefer bright rooms. Reproduction of echmea can occur both by seeds and by “babies”. If the plant is grown from seeds, flowering will occur in the third year.
Plants of the genus Aechmea are epiphytes that form vegetative shoots and grow naturally in the forks of trees, crevices of stone embankments or rocks. The typical habitat for echmea is subtropical and tropical forests.
Most types of echmea are very beautiful plants that have received well-deserved recognition from flower growers.
The most common types of indoor Aechmea flower and photographs of these species
Echmea, despite the fact that its natural habitat is tropical and subtropical forests, grows and develops well in artificially created conditions. Let's look at the most popular types of echmea that can grow in a home flower garden.
In nature, it is found in the tropical forests of Brazil. Aechmea Weilbach is an epiphyte, has a goblet-shaped rosette of bright green, soft-skinned, sword-shaped leaves. This type of echmea blooms with complex racemose inflorescences. The peduncle and bract are usually red, and the flowers are lilac-blue. It usually blooms in spring, in April and May.
At home, it is better to place Weilbach's aechmea on the east or west side. In order for the plant to grow correctly, the winter temperature should be maintained at least +18 degrees, and the echmea should be watered evenly. You also need to provide the flower with good drainage.
Echmea Weilbach propagates both by division (during transplantation) and by seeds.
Species: Aechmea biseriata
It has two types: epiphyte and terrestrial. The leaf rosette can have a diameter of up to one meter, spreading, loose structure. The leaves of the double-rowed echmea have dark brown spines along the edges, the leaf itself is green, narrow, reaching up to 50 cm long with a width of 3 cm. The double-rowed echmea blooms with lilac flowers with bright red bracts. The peduncle of this plant is about 60 cm in size. In the two-row Aechmea variety “variegata”, white stripes run along the edges of the leaves.
This variety of echmea has narrow and long leaves that grow together into a tube and form a rosette. The leaves have small spines along the edges, but the main part of the leaf is smooth. Aechmea curved has very beautiful inflorescences, in which both the petals and the bract are most often bright red. As a rule, the inflorescence is located 15-20 cm above the rosette of leaves.
It is also known as Aechmea Linden. The leaves of this species of echmea are long, sometimes reaching a length of 1 meter. The edges of the leaves are finely toothed. The leaves are densely arranged and form a rosette. Aechmea shaggy blooms in winter. The flowers are bright yellow and the bracts are red. The inflorescence is large, multi-row spike.
The "Makoyana" variety resembles the species "variegata": the leaves of this species also have white stripes.
Type - Aechmea matte red
One of the most hardy species of echmea in indoor conditions. Half-meter narrow leaves grow densely and form a funnel-shaped rosette. The color of the leaves is very interesting: they are light green above and have a faint purple tint below. The pointed tip of the leaves is short, tongue-shaped, with a slightly narrowed base. The pyramidal inflorescence is crowned with an erect peduncle, which is most often red. The flowers of matte red echmea are bicolor: light blue petals and matte red sepals. When pollinated, the plant produces small bright pink fruits.
This type of echmea has dense, belt-shaped, leathery leaves that create a tall, tube-shaped rosette. The color of the leaves is green, there are frequent small teeth along the edges, and a spine at the end of the leaf. The average leaf length is 40-50 cm, and the width is 5 cm.
The inflorescence of the plant is large, up to 30 cm long. Located on an erect peduncle. The shape of the inflorescence is capitate-pyramidal, the color of the inflorescence leaves is pink, glossy.
At the beginning of flowering, the flowers of striped echmea have bluish petals and felt-pubescent sepals, and over time they become blue-red.
A very interesting type of echmea. It differs in that the rosette of the plant is free, and it is formed from pale green leaves covered with a gray coating. The leaf length of this species reaches 40 cm, width - 4-6 cm. The leaf has a rounded top and sparsely set teeth along the edges.
Aechmea blooms with sparkling multiple inflorescences. The flowers are red, coral in color, slightly bluish at the top. The bracts are pink.
Caring for echmea at home
Echmea grows well in both light and partial shade
If you want to have some type of this very beautiful plant in your home flower garden, you need to know some subtleties and rules. With proper care, echmea will grow well and regularly delight you with flowering.
Lighting and watering indoor Aechmea plants
In terms of lighting, echmea is not too whimsical. The flower grows readily both in bright light and in partial shade. It is considered optimal to place pots with echmea on the east or west side. To choose the right lighting for echmea, you need to pay attention to the structure of its leaves. Plants with hard leaves prefer bright lighting, southern windows, and in summer they like to be on balconies. Aechmea species with soft leaves, on the contrary, prefer to grow in partial shade, with moderate lighting.
Aechmea plants need to be watered regularly to keep the soil moist at all times. When watering, water should first be poured into the sockets and then directly onto the soil. Water for watering echmea should be warm and soft.
In autumn, watering can be reduced, and in winter the funnel can be kept completely dry. But it should be remembered that prolonged drying is harmful for echmea.
Optimal temperature and humidity
The optimal temperature for growing echmea is 20-26 degrees Celsius
Since in nature, echmea grows in subtropical and tropical forests, it is thermophilic. For growing at home, the best air temperature in summer is from 20 to 26, and in winter - 17-18 degrees Celsius. Echmea loves differences in night and day temperatures, which also corresponds to the temperature regime in the forests of the tropics and subtropics. The influx of fresh air also has a beneficial effect on the condition of the echmea.
Echmea is unpretentious in terms of air humidity. The plant tolerates dry air normally, but it would be better to provide the plant with slightly increased humidity. To do this, the flower pot can be placed on wet pebbles, and the plant itself can be sprayed with warm water every day, especially if the echmea is kept warm in winter.
Soil requirements
The optimal soil for most types of echmea is a mixture of humus, peat, turf and leaf soils, taken in equal parts. It is also good to add a little sand to this mixture. The best option for comfortable development and flowering of echmea would be a mixture of equal parts of compost, leaf soil, chopped moss, to which sand and crushed shards should be added. You can also grow echmea in a special mixture for bromeliads, which is sold in stores.
For good growth of echmea, you can make a substrate from finely chopped fern roots and sphagnum moss (3:1). Complex but high-quality soil for echmea can be obtained by mixing coarse leaf soil, high peat, sphagnum, and sand (1: 1: 1: 0.5, and to this soil mixture add pieces of charcoal and horn shavings. If you decide to grow echmea in such soil - remember that good drainage is required.
Various liquid fertilizers for bromeliad plants are suitable for echmea.
Fertilizers and fertilizing of echmea should be done in spring and summer. The frequency of the procedure is every 15-20 days. There are various liquid fertilizers for bromeliads on sale that are optimal for caring for aechmea. You can also use any other fertilizer for flowering indoor plants, but the dose should be halved.
Aechmea flowering
Aechmea blooms from May to October. Each rosette blooms only once, after which the faded inflorescence must be removed. Soon after flowering, “babies” appear at the base of the echmea. They need to be transplanted from the mother plant as soon as they reach half its size.
Reproduction
Aechmea propagates by both shoots and seeds; new plants obtained from shoots (“babies”) begin to bloom within 1-3 years. But those echmeas that grew from seeds bloom for the first time later: after 3-4 years.
Reproduction by offspring. " It is customary to separate the children of Aechmea from the adult plant in March. They should not have roots, but there should already be a sufficient number of leaves. The places on the mother echmea from which the “babies” were cut should be sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried a little.
Propagation by seeds. Aechmea seeds are best sown in finely chopped fern roots or in a loose peat mixture. The optimal temperature is 25 degrees Celsius, with high humidity and in a shaded place. With proper care, after 2-3 months, seedlings can be planted in a special soil mixture, which consists of equal parts of heather and leaf soil. Further, for one year, new plants need proper care: regular spraying and a room temperature of at least 22 degrees Celsius. After a year, the echmea can be transplanted into a convenient pot and ordinary substrate.
Aechmea transplant
It is best to replant echmea annually. For comfortable growth of echmea, a flower pot should not be deep, but it is better if its diameter is not small. Basically, the container serves to give the flower a vertical position. After transplantation, it is necessary to help the plant restore its root system. To do this, the echmea should be kept in the shade and not watered for 2-3 days.
Watch a video on how to transplant echmea and separate the children from the mother plant.
Virulence
As a rule, Aechmea is non-poisonous. But one of its species, striped echmea, is slightly toxic. The poison is mainly contained in its leaves, so careless touching them can cause an inflammatory skin reaction.
Diseases, pests and flower care during this period
The most common cause of death of all types of echmea is improper watering or overwatering. It should be remembered that there should not be water in the plant outlet all the time. Otherwise, the echmea will rot. This will become obvious if the plant's leaves turn brown. But, besides this, the leaves of echmea can turn brown if the plant is cold.
If the plant has limp leaves, it means it does not have enough moisture. Dry leaf tips indicate that the surrounding air is too dry.
If your plant stubbornly refuses to bloom, it means it doesn’t have enough light. Most often, echmeas with variegated leaves behave this way. If there is insufficient light, the leaves of the plant may also lose their original color.
Pests that can damage echmea are root scale insects, root mites and aphids. It is very easy to get rid of them using commercially available insecticides.