So, you have decided not to throw all your waste into the trash can, but to recycle and reuse some of it. Namely, what you decide to do for your garden. Great solution! But... Is everything suitable for composting, and can everything be put in a compost heap?
Composting is one of the healthiest things you can do for your garden. We can't endlessly extract nutrients from the soil, we have to put it back. This must be done at least to an equal or even greater extent in order to replenish the supply of nutrients in the soil.
Don't put it in compost...
There are hundreds of things in your home that you can compost from. And while it is technically possible to compost almost anything that was once organic, there are some things that are best left out of the compost pile in order to improve its quality. Here are 10 of them...
Dog and cat excrement
If you still want to somehow recycle the waste from your cats and dogs, then you need to compost it in a separate compost heap and use it as fertilizer for non-food crops.
Tea and coffee bags
Coffee grounds and tea leaves are definitely good additions to your compost pile. They provide generous doses of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, elements essential for plants. But it's all about the bags. It is highly advisable to remove tea and coffee residues from the bags before composting. The fact is that the bags in which tea and coffee are packaged may contain synthetic fibers that are not processed in the compost heap, and may contain chemicals that are not desirable for the soil.
Therefore, do not compost tea or coffee bags unless you are sure they are made from natural materials.
The contents of tea bags can be composted, but the tea bags themselves cannot.
Citrus peels and onions
While fruit and vegetable scraps are the main components of the compost pile, there are two exceptions: citrus peels and onions.
Are you surprised? Unfortunately, the natural chemicals and acidity in citrus peels and onions can kill worms and other microorganisms, which in turn can slow down the decomposition of your pile. In addition, if you do not chop them into very small pieces, citrus peels take a very long time to rot.
If you only occasionally toss citrus peels and onion scraps into your compost pile, this isn't a big problem, but if it happens regularly, it can interfere with the process of turning the scraps into complete compost.
It is not advisable to put citrus peels in large quantities into compost. Fish and meat waste
While this waste will technically break down just fine, you still shouldn't add it to your compost pile. Fish and meat can certainly add organic and other nutrients to your garden, but unfortunately their smell will act as a magnet for any rats, mice, cats (or even bears, depending on where you live). , which will rummage through the compost to eat them.
And the stench of rotting meat and fish can also irritate you and your neighbors.
Never compost fish or meat scraps Glossy and other coated paper
Many paper products are potential sources for compost: old paper towels, shredded cardboard, etc. After all, paper is made from wood.
However, paper that has been treated to make it bright, colorful and shiny (like magazines, for example) will not degrade properly. Plus, it contains toxins and is not at all suitable for your compost pile.
Stickers on vegetables and fruits
These sticky labels and price tags on fruits and vegetables are made from food-grade plastic or vinyl and are non-biodegradable. They are small and easy to view, but they are one of the largest sources of compost contamination.
Try removing these stickers from fruit and vegetable scraps before adding them to your compost pile.
Labels on fruits and vegetables have no place in the compost heap. Coal ash
Ash from coal or charcoal should not be added to your compost pile as it contains a lot of sulfur which will make the soil too heavy and eventually damage your plants. In addition, if it is ash from coal briquettes, then it may also contain other chemicals that are used to treat these briquettes.
Can be added in moderation to compost, but dispose of charcoal differently.
Sawdust from treated wood
While sawdust from clean, untreated, natural wood can be an excellent addition to the compost, sawdust from wood that has been treated in any way—pressed, varnished, stained, or painted—should never be added to a compost pile.
Their toxic compounds are not destroyed during the composting process and can enter the soil, which will negatively affect the activity of microorganisms and the health of plants. Sawdust from compressed wood contains arsenic and cadmium - two toxins you definitely don't want in your garden or on your desk!
In addition, sawdust from treated wood takes a very long time to decompose because it is protected from decay by chemicals; it is best not to put it in your compost pile.
Sawdust from treated wood (chipboard, furniture panels, etc.) will only harm the compost Large branches
Large branches will take a very, very long time to decompose, significantly delaying the ability to use your compost in the garden. It is better to initially spend a little more time to chop up such branches, but then they will rot better and faster in your compost heap.
Alternatively, you can make a pile of large branches somewhere separate. Let it rot there for several years. But keep in mind that such a pile can become a habitat for small animals and snakes. So, get to know your surrounding fauna better before doing something like this.
It is better to leave large branches to rot separately. Synthetic fertilizers
Synthetic fertilizers introduce inorganic elements into your garden's ecosystem. Imagine that you start eating multivitamins instead of regular natural food. This can actually kill the microorganisms in the compost and soil, which will ultimately affect the health of the plants as well.
Compounds in synthetic fertilizers, such as heavy metals, also leach from the soil into groundwater, disrupting the natural balance of nutrients in the soil and increasing its salinity.
Now you know what not to put in compost. Stick to natural ingredients for your compost pile and your soil will always be rich in nutrients.
It is constantly gaining momentum, and this method of working with land implies the mandatory use of , which serves as a replacement for the entire range of purchased fertilizers. As I have already noted, many gardening neophytes do not achieve truly high quality right away, but over the years, experience and practice do their job and most gardeners become true experts in composting. We can say that it is 50% science and 50% art.
The final nutritional value of this fertilizer is decisively influenced by its component composition, that is, those substances and materials that you add to it during the preparation process.
All materials put into compost can be divided into nitrogen-containing and carbon-containing ones. The feasibility of such a separation is due to the fact that composting works best when elements such as nitrogen and carbon are present in the compost heap in a certain proportion (their optimal ratio will be discussed in one of the following posts).
So, from nitrogen-containing materials the following will go into compost:
- Green grass without roots, fresh green leaves, freshly pulled weeds, green corn stalks and leaves, apple carrion (if it is not affected by rot), etc.
- Lake and river silt.
- Trimmings of fish, meat and small bones. Such additives are quite to the taste of soil microorganisms, but keep in mind that they also attract various pests, in particular rats and mice. Therefore, if you want to put them in compost, then you need to sprinkle them on top with a dense layer of soil.
- Slurry.
- Bird, horse, cow and other types of manure.
- Soil.
- Fermented grass without dilution, as well as the grounds left over after fertilizing the plants.
There are differing opinions as to whether human waste should be added to the compost pile. Some avoid adding such things for fear of spreading worms, but many don't take the threat too seriously and have been consuming vegetables grown in their own feces for years. Although I believe that if a cow refuses to eat the grass that grows on cow pats, then we shouldn’t either.
A list of carbon-containing materials that work well in compost includes:
- Dry grass with roots, dry weeds, dried last year's leaves, dry corn stalks and leaves, branch trimmings, etc.
- Straw, dry hay, .
- Woody. Although this component does not add nutritional value to the compost and does not decompose easily, it can and should still be placed in the compost heap. The benefit of sawdust is that it gives the compost greater looseness and absorbs a large amount of moisture, contributing to its better preservation.
- Paper, cardboard, old plywood. These materials must be thoroughly moistened with water before adding them to the compost heap.
An excellent addition to composting would be some food and household waste: eggshells, fruit and vegetable waste, wilted flowers, spoiled animal feed, etc. However, I do not advise you to throw citrus peels into the compost, as they contain natural preservatives in the form of essential oils that will inhibit this fertilizer. The nutritional composition of the compost will also improve significantly if you add a little lime and mineral fertilizers.
It is very convenient to prepare compost in such a mesh box.
There are, however, a number of substances that are not recommended to be added during compost production:
- Leftover cooked food
- Weeds with a strong root system (especially wheatgrass).
- Sick plants.
- Gardening chemicals.
- Remains of building materials.
- Plastic bags.
Diseased leaves and stems of plants can be composted only if you are absolutely sure that the combustion process has been initiated in the compost heap, that is, the temperature inside it has risen to 60 degrees or higher (otherwise, it is better to burn the affected tops to ash). However, there is an exception here: some pathogens are highly resilient and are able to survive even under heating conditions. In addition, the layers of the compost heap may not warm up evenly, and in some places the temperature will not be high enough to destroy all foci of infection.
It is strictly not recommended to compost plants, diseased, rotten root crops, celery and legumes, on the surface of which a white dense fungal coating or black balls are noticeable. Such tops are also burned, and the ash can then be used to prepare compost.
Before putting it into compost, all its components (especially coarse elements) must be crushed, as this will significantly speed up its maturation. It should be taken into account that large pieces (for example, tree bark or branches) will contribute to better air circulation inside the compost heap, without continuous access of which it is impossible to initiate full combustion. In short, it is important to maintain the correct ratio of large and small components, which is determined empirically rather than on the basis of any strict recommendations.
several methods:1. I painted an old iron barrel without a bottom black (to make the waste warmer), during the season I fill it with everything that rots, small twigs, twigs, roots, mown grass, leaves, kitchen waste at the bottom. I never take anything from the toilet. If there is, I add manure. If possible, I add layers of regular soil and very little peat (very little, because I save it for other purposes). I spill it all with warm water. The topmost layer is made of good soil with humus and I cover the top with black spunbond. I plant 7-10 cucumber seeds in this barrel. As they grow, the lashes hang down and cover the entire barrel. Cucumbers grow beautifully, they are easy to care for and picking is a pleasure. And in the fall, after harvesting, the finished compost is placed in the beds and under the bushes. I must say that a barrel holds a lot of waste. And cheaper than a composter.
2. I made two boxes from the remnants of slate, where I put all the waste, except toilet and large pieces of wood (they take a long time to rot). If I put leaves from fruit trees there, I always pour vitriol on it. (It's better to burn them, but when it's rainy or there's no time, I compost them). The technology is the same. Last year I bought the drug "Vozrozhdenie" and poured it on everything according to the instructions. The instructions “promised” that everything would rot in three weeks. I haven't rotted in three months. Hopefully the compost will be ready by spring.
If you sprinkle the pile with earth or peat on top, there will be no stink.
3. Previously, I made a trench along the back fence, laid everything there and covered it with the same soil from the trench. By spring, everything had rotted and a ready-made bed was obtained.
Yes, I also added ash everywhere - from the stove, from the fire. That's it.
This year I want to get rid of the heaps and make do with two barrels: compact and economical.
But I don’t dig holes, but a trench slightly narrower than the future bed, to a depth of 30-40 cm (it can be deeper) and a meter or two in length, when this meter or two is filled, I dig further along the length, and transfer the soil to an area filled with grass . Then you can cover this future bed with boards or slate and fill it with grass and other waste (anything that rots).
In general, you need to cover the composter and provide ventilation, and the color also affects it, as you know, a shield with a black color heats up a lot from the sun. You will have ready-made compost in 3-4 weeks. And ordinary rainworms also play a significant role. If you develop them well, they will reward you with good vermicompost.
There should be a composter without a bottom.
In the old pile, as far as I understand, the “green” and dry layers (those with nitrogen content and those with carbon content) did not alternate, and that’s why it stinks.
The compost heap must have contact with the ground, which is why composters are made without a bottom, and branches are thrown at the base so that there is air circulation.
I don’t put sick plants in compost. We often get late blight on tomato and potato tops, so I don’t compost them either. I don’t put flowering or faded weeds, otherwise they will scatter throughout the compost area. I wouldn’t put wheatgrass rhizomes in compost either - they are very tenacious.
Once I put into the compost a phytolaca bush cut off in the fall with berries, hops with cones taken from the fence, elecampane with faded heads... The next year I added a little compost to the beds, dug up, planted seeds of cultivated plants, but then had difficulty finding them among weeds springing up together.
I put it directly on the ground - weeded out young weeds (any, with roots, most importantly NOT IMMEDIATE!), kitchen waste (potato peelings, eggshells, bread, paper napkins, tea leaves, etc.), tear and stack cardboard boxes, sprinkle the layers with a small amount of earth, add ash, urea, superphosphate, lime (a little). If available, you can add manure. By autumn, a lot of different tops appear (you can’t put only tomato tops) - the rest all goes into use. I add thin branches (cut with pruning shears). From time to time I water the pile and shovel it. This spring I have quite a lot of compost. Now I have laid a new pile nearby and am raking out the old one. Then, on the contrary, it is very convenient.
And by the way, there has NEVER been an unpleasant odor from my pile, let alone a “stench.” The contents must ROTTEN, not rot! The finished compost smells pleasantly like forest soil!
What can you put in your compost pile?
Any organic waste of plant origin.
Cardboard.
Fresh manure.
Dried or moldy bread, it is better to soak it first. Shredded natural fabrics.
Feathers from old pillows and feather beds.
Sludge and aquatic plants that remain during the cleaning process of ponds.
What should you not put in your compost pile?
Animal waste - it will, of course, be processed, but an unpleasant odor will inevitably appear and a variety of predators will be attracted to it - from rats to stray dogs.
The contents of country toilets - the temperature in the compost heap is not high enough to kill pathogenic microbes.
Sick plants must be burned.
Infested weeds. The seeds will remain in the compost, and when you add it to your garden bed or flower garden, they will begin to grow. (Although I read in some magazine that the temperature on the second day in compost rises to 70 degrees and the seeds partially die.)
Such weeds can first be placed in a large plastic bag so that the seeds “burn”, and after a year they can be added to the compost heap. They do the same with fallen leaves - in a compost heap they rot more slowly than grass, to speed up this process they are first placed in such a bag, pierced with several holes on the sides, and after some time they are transferred to the compost heap.
Small branches are crushed in a garden shredder before being added to the compost.
At the bottom of the compost pit you need to pour a little garden soil containing the necessary microorganisms. The contents of the compost heap should ideally be mixed several times for better aeration, but this is a rather labor-intensive process; you can simply pierce the compost with special wooden forks or just a wooden stick.
Nowadays there are many different composting process accelerators on the market. They are not fundamentally different; as a rule, they contain enzymes and/or bacteria that facilitate the accelerated processing of plant residues. I'm spilling it with Baikal.
The composting process is an aerobic process, so it is very helpful to stir or poke the compost to allow oxygen to reach the lower layers.
What does compost give?!
Well-prepared compost is in no way inferior to well-rotted manure, and when adding 16 buckets per 10 sq.m to the soil, no additional addition of macro- and microelements is required.
The story is told by Rasida Amirovna Kudoyarova, a leading biologist, microbiologist, gardener, biotechnologist, developer of a number of biological products. Work experience over 30 years.
INTERESTING! The word “compost” comes from the Latin componere and compositum and means a mixture, something put together. Compost is a composition of organic substances decomposed under the influence of microorganisms. Compost is used to improve soil structure and also as fertilizer and mulch.
Compost enriches the soil with nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, microelements, etc.), various beneficial microorganisms and organic substances, and the soil and above-ground air with carbon dioxide. This is a kind of leaven that activates life processes in the soil.
Compost not only enriches the soil with humus and nutrients, but also improves its structure. Thanks to this, the soil becomes looser, air easily penetrates into it, and at the same time water accumulates in such soil.
Compost is suitable for all garden and vegetable plants, and, what is very important, compost cannot “over-fertilize” the soil and harm the plants.
It’s like the proverb here: “You can’t spoil porridge with butter.”
ATTENTION! Leftover food should always be covered with soil to avoid attracting flies, mice and rats.
What can you put in your compost pile?
All decomposing organic materials are suitable for making compost.
1. Green plants with a layer thickness of 15 - 20 cm. Green plants include: mown grass, grass after weeding, weeds (preferably without seeds), green manure plants.
2. Manure, peat or soil are valuable components; when the heap is heated to 60 0C or higher, this kills the eggs and larvae of flies and helminths, as well as many pathogens.
3. Dry branches of raspberries, currants, apple trees for air circulation in the compost heap.
4. Newsprint is not colored.
5. Kitchen waste: food scraps, spoiled food, old tea leaves, coffee grounds, eggshells, seed husks, especially wine or juice juices (they contain components that speed up composting and attract earthworms), but for large volumes of marc it is necessary to add Lime - Gumi. Banana peels and leftovers from cutting meat and fish are especially good - they help increase the number of microorganisms that accelerate decomposition and make compost of high quality.
6. It is advisable to add phosphate rock and wood ash little by little. This helps enrich the compost with macro- and microelements - potassium and magnesium up to 10%. And it is important to add Lime-Gumi if you use acidic peat for composting.
7. All plant waste from the garden and vegetable garden: hay, straw, leaves and chopped branches of trees and shrubs, sawdust.
8. Be sure to water the layers containing soil, peat, and manure with Gumi-Omi Compostin. This will increase the humidity of the mass to 70 - 75%, and the beneficial microbacteria of Compostin will significantly accelerate the maturation of the compost heap.
Do not put in compost heap
1. Glass, metal particles, wire, ceramic shards, plastic, batteries, synthetic textiles, waste oil, paint residues, aerosols, foil, soot, construction waste, etc.
2. Leaves collected in the city, as they often contain heavy metals (mercury, lead), which are stored in compost and can subsequently contaminate the garden plot.
3. Citrus peels reduce the rate of compost decomposition.
4. Do not add wormwood, tansy, medicinal rhubarb, yew, broom, lily of the valley, or aconite to the compost. These plants contain toxic substances that destroy microorganisms that process organic matter.
DIY composter
The simplest and cheapest wooden piles for a summer resident are those built by hand. The dimensions of the pile are: width 1.5 m, height 1.0 - 1.2 m, and the length depends on the area being fertilized and the availability of raw materials; it is advisable to make a lid on the pile. You can line the walls of the collar from the inside with foam plastic to retain heat in cold weather. The formation of the piles is carried out immediately in full or as raw materials arrive.
From the editor.
Currently, in many countries, especially in Germany and Finland, composters of a wide variety of volume, shape and purpose are produced. Their cost is quite high, and therefore not all summer residents can purchase such a composter.
A composter is a rotating device for quickly preparing compost at home. It is possible to obtain finished compost in 2 - 4 weeks. The gardener will only need to rotate the compost bin twice a day using a special handle.
Adding compost
The compost heap is stacked in layers in the following order:
1) at the very bottom, be sure to put dry (namely dry) branches (clippings) of currants, raspberries, apple trees, etc. a layer of 7 - 10 cm, no more;
2) second layer - mown grass (layer 15 - 20 cm), weeds, peat, manure (at least 5 cm). And be sure to spill it with Gumi-Omi Compostin solution: 50 ml per 10 liters of water per 50 kg of raw materials.
3) third layer - newsprint, not colored.
4) fourth layer - kitchen waste.
5) fifth layer - plant waste from the garden: hay, straw, foliage, chopped branches of trees and shrubs, sawdust.
6) sixth layer - manure in a layer of 3 - 5 cm, lightly powdered with phosphate rock, ash or Lime - Gumi in a thin layer. Vegetable tops (raw) are added to manure or to the manure layer.
7) seventh layer - soil or clay with the addition of fertile soil as a filling of soil microflora with a thickness of at least 2 cm.
ATTENTION! Sprinkle each layer with Gumi-Omi Compostin: 50 ml per 10 liters of water. This will significantly speed up the maturation of the compost heap, enrich it with beneficial microflora, sodium humate, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
8) If the pile does not have a lid, then be sure to cover the top layer with peat or soil.
9) If the compost heap is dry, then water it with Compostin: 20 ml per 10 liters of water.
If a compost pile is formed as raw materials arrive from spring to autumn, then it is also laid in layers, as mentioned above. In the fall, the pile is covered with sod, or manure, or soil and is not touched for 18 months. During this time, organic residues go through all stages of decomposition and synthesis and turn into ripe humus.
And if you laid out a heap at once, then on the 2nd - 3rd day the heap begins to warm up. On the fourth, seventh and tenth days, the pile is mixed and, if necessary, moistened. On day 14, the heap material, although it has not turned into ripe compost, is quite suitable for use as garden fertilizer. At this stage, the compost heap is covered with a layer of soil, peat, leaves or straw until full maturation, which is completed in 4 to 6 months in the summer.
Mature compost is a homogeneous crumbly material of dark brown color with a fresh smell of forest soil.
It usually takes one to one and a half years for compost to mature.
This is how waste is converted into income!
» Medicines
The annual use of the site for growing various crops greatly depletes the soil. To restore its fertility, it is necessary to periodically apply fertilizers. One of the most accessible types of food, which has a rich composition of nutrients, is compost. This fertilizer can be made at the dacha with your own hands.
Compost is one of the types of organic fertilizers that can be prepared independently using various household and vegetable waste. A high-quality composition containing minerals and valuable trace elements is equivalent to humus. The nutrient mixture reaches readiness as a result of the decomposition of organic matter under the influence of heat and moisture. A compost heap is identified with a living biological reactor. The process of converting waste into a valuable nutritious product occurs thanks to intensively developing microorganisms.
Preparing compost is not a labor-intensive process, but the technology still has some features. Only the right composition can restore the vitality of the soil, increase its fertility and improve its structure. There are a great many recipes and methods for preparing organic fertilizer. Each experienced gardener has his own exclusive secrets, which consist in the use of various additives, the combination of certain components, etc.
For those who did not take care of setting up a compost pit in advance, bagged humus is offered. But before purchasing, you should collect information about the manufacturer, otherwise you may get a neutral or negative result after fertilizing the land.
Natural compost is rotten organic waste What is it made from?
No matter how tempting the offers to purchase ready-made compost may be, you can only fully trust a product you prepare yourself. To obtain organic fertilizer you can use:
- waste and peeling of vegetables/fruits;
- eggshells (only from eggs that have not undergone heat treatment);
- tea leaves, coffee grounds;
- mown grass;
- dry leaves;
- peat;
- domestic animal manure, bird droppings;
- thin branches, stems;
- paper, natural fabrics, feathers (raw materials in crushed form);
- straw, shavings, seed husks.
All or part of the ingredients are filled into a box or pit in a certain order. To start the fermentation process, it is necessary to create a favorable temperature regime and high humidity.
Compost is prepared from the remains of fruits, vegetables, eggs, straw and other things. The following ingredients should not be placed in a composter or pit:
- vegetable waste and heat-treated fruits(there are practically no useful microelements in them, the composition will turn out to be non-nutritious);
- weeds(all types of weeds contain poisonous or toxic substances that pose a danger to the soil and cultivated crops);
- plants affected by any diseases or pests(compost with such a component will provoke the spread of the disease on the soil and plants);
- synthetic material(it is not subject to the process of decomposition and rotting);
- citrus waste(essential oils inhibit decomposition processes; a large number of crusts can increase the acidity of the soil).
According to popular rumor, you can add dog and cat feces to compost, as well as used toilet filler. Experts do not recommend using this type of waste, since animal waste products may contain worms that are dangerous to human health. Being in a warm and humid environment, they survive well, and then successfully colonize raspberries, strawberries and other fruits.
Advantages and disadvantages
To appreciate the full benefits of using compost, you need to consider its effect on the soil environment and plants.
- Compost contains a large amount of valuable minerals and trace elements in the correct proportion. When it enters the soil, a rapid metabolic process occurs, as a result of which the deficiency of missing substances is instantly compensated.
- Organic matter, when combined with soil, forms a single structure. After heavy watering or rain, micronutrients remain on the surface, unlike mineral fertilizers, which settle into deeper layers of the soil.
- Compost allows moisture and air to pass through well, which allows it to improve the soil structure in the upper layers. This is important for the normal development of the root system.
- The fertilizer contains a large amount of humus, which increases the fertility of the land.
- It is almost impossible to overfeed plants with organic matter. All components are of natural origin. They undergo natural decay processes without contaminating the soil with various toxins.
- Compost from organic fertilizers is the most accessible a way to enrich the soil with useful substances.
Real compost has virtually no downsides and mixes completely with the soil. Compost has virtually no disadvantages. However, it is worth noting that when arranging a compost heap or pit, you need to choose a place away from the recreation area and home, since the process of rotting is accompanied by the release of an unpleasant odor. In addition, this object attracts flies, ants and other insects. Arranging a special box equipped with doors will help to avoid problems with such a neighborhood. Insulating a compost heap in this way also has aesthetic value; the corner of the site will not look dull.
How to make a compost bin with your own hands
To organize a place for collecting organic waste in order to obtain fertilizer, it is recommended to use a compost box. Making a storage unit is not difficult at all, following simple rules.
Requirements for construction on site
In order for the manufactured container to meet all requirements, it is worth considering important points when assembling it:
- the side walls must have holes to ensure air circulation (2 cm gaps can be left between the boards);
- there is no such element as the bottom in the box;
- the presence of a lid will limit the flow of water during heavy rains (excess moisture will provoke the development of fungus);
- the lower part of the box should be opening to ensure the intake of fertilizer (the composition ripens faster from below).
Materials for making organic fertilizer
To make a compost bin, bars and boards are selected. You can also use wooden shields. Instead of a wooden lid, a frame covered with plastic film or polycarbonate is often used. Fixation of individual elements of the container is carried out with hardware and hinges (unlocking fragments).
Optimal box dimensions: height – 1 m, width – 1.2 m.
Manufacturing instructions
- Clear the area under the compost bin from plant debris and remove the turf layer. Mark according to the drawing.
- Dig holes 35-50 cm deep in the corners to install supports.
- Install the supports in the holes, level them vertically and fill them with gravel to half the depth. The part remaining to the soil surface is filled with cement.
- 1-2 days after the cement has hardened, fill the cement fill with earth.
- Connect the supports at the top and bottom with bars (on 4 sides).
- Cover the frame with boards around the perimeter, leaving 2 cm gaps for air access. The board needs to be attached to hinges on one or both sides at the bottom so that it can open to collect fertilizer.
- The top should be equipped with an unlockable lid made from several boards without gaps.
How to make a compost heap
As an option, prepare a compost heap in one of the secluded corners of the site. A heap does not mean a random dump of garbage, but a systematic collection of organic waste. It is better to choose a place in the shade; in the sun the components will dry out. A shady shelter provides the necessary humidity, which has a beneficial effect on the decay process. Worms, wood lice and other microorganisms also contribute to decomposition.
The right materials
These products are made from natural ingredients and will not harm the soil or plants. For example, the drug Embiko Compost (Gringo) ensures the ripening of fertilizer in just 6-8 weeks.
How to determine when compost is ready
Ready compost can be identified by the characteristic dark color of the composition. It should be crumbly, moist, and not smelly. The ripened fertilizer has the smell of forest soil.
By following the rules for making compost, you can regularly replenish the supply of nutrient mixture for your garden with your own hands, without spending additional money on ready-made fertilizers.