Clean floors. Subfloor in a wooden house: making a strong joist base for the final coating

Plywood is versatile building material. It can be used not only as construction material for rough finishing, but also for the front decoration of walls and floors. A finished plywood floor is a finishing coating that is in no way inferior in its attractiveness to the laminate that is so popular today, but its cost is lower, and its strength and resistance to various unfavorable conditions higher.

Plywood can be used as a finishing floor covering. To add beauty, it is varnished, painted, etc.

The installation of such a finished floor can be carried out various methods. The sheets are laid directly on concrete base floor or on specially prepared logs. You can immediately create an unusual surface in the form of imitation parquet with traditional surface varnishing or by painting plywood in unusual bright colors, which will be ideal for any modern interior.

Features of plywood

Plywood for flooring is not only an excellent and attractive covering, but also warm, which significantly distinguishes it from tiled floors or other finishing materials. Among the advantages of a plywood finished floor, it should be noted:

Simple installation that does not require experience or complex preparation. During the work, wet construction processes and cement-based solutions are not used. This makes leveling faster and cheaper.

1. Plywood can be laid on any base, including screed, wooden floors and joists.
2. The surface is warm in most cases additional insulation not required.
3. The coating is durable and resistant to stress.
4. With the help of plywood it is possible to create beautiful design flooring, including imitation of natural parquet.

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Installation on joists

Plywood can be mounted not only on concrete screeds, but also on joists. This option is convenient, since the floor can also be leveled, plus additional insulation. If necessary, utility lines are laid under the surface of the cladding.

The installation process is as follows:

1. First, the floor surface must be marked. The level of the future floor and the position for laying the joists are indicated. The step between them should be about 30-60 cm, but the height depends on the need for alignment.
2. The logs are attached to the surface; special adjusting anchors can be used. Before the beams are laid on the base, they should be treated with an antiseptic. During work, the position of the logs is strictly observed; for leveling, you need to use a building level.
3. When the logs are in place, it is necessary to adjust their position and trim off the excess adjusting screws.
4. The cavities between the joists are filled with insulation; it is best to use special bulk substances. Expanded clay, which has a low cost, has proven itself to be excellent; ecowool can also be used. In the latter option, the price is even lower, and installation is extremely simple. This material is not subject to rotting, has best characteristics on thermal insulation.
5. The plywood is laid after cutting; temperature gaps must be maintained between the boards. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, all joints must be on the joists. The installation itself is done in a checkerboard pattern.
6. Finishing finishing work can be carried out using several methods. Plywood can be attached to a concrete screed or wooden floor.

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The most regular plywood can be used to not only level the floor and make it smooth, but also create an unusual beautiful coating under the parquet. Such a fine finish will seriously compete with even such a popular laminate.

The work will be done as follows:

You can use plywood to create a parquet flooring.

1. It is necessary to draw up a sketch; it will clearly show what appearance the finishing coating will have after installation. There are many options to choose from, but the most common are square or rectangular elements. They can be laid out in various ways, including a checkerboard pattern and a classic herringbone pattern. After installation, the surface can be painted, stained and varnished.
2. Work is planned to level the floor. You can make the cladding directly on the concrete base or on the joists.
3. Insulation is selected if necessary. In city apartments, insulation is done quite often.
4. The finishing material is selected. For the first leveling layer it is better to use regular birch plywood, its surface may not even be polished. For the finishing face layer, you can take plywood with a regular high-quality surface or a special decorative one, the finishing of which is much simplified.

The work itself on laying the final layer of plywood includes several stages:

• cleaning the base;
• primer;
• cutting sheets;
• installation of plywood covering;
• finishing works.

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Substrate stripping and priming

It is better to apply the primer to a concrete base using a roller.

Typically, plywood is laid on a finished screed. To begin work, the base must be cleared of dust and debris. If there are cracks, they must be carefully masked. It is best to use an industrial vacuum cleaner for such work, which not only removes all dust, but also rinses the surface. Under no circumstances should you use a regular broom, as it will not be possible to moisten it, and cleaning with a dry broom will not give any special results. It is impossible to over-moisten the screed, as it will take a long time to dry, and it is prohibited to start laying the plywood covering on wet concrete.

After the base is cleaned, you need to start priming. Special compounds are used for the work. You can also make the primer yourself. It is enough to purchase a primer in the form of glue or mastic, then dilute it with plain water or gasoline. Apply primer to the surface with a paint roller. The finished primer can be applied by any other in a convenient way. Experts advise using factory-made compounds. Their difference is as follows:

1. The primer removes dust from the surface of the screed. This important condition for any finishing coating.
2. The deep penetration primer provides adhesion for the adhesive. This is especially important if the plywood will be glued down rather than mounted onto joists with adjustable anchors.
3. The ready-made primer penetrates well into the surface of the screed, making it stronger and more durable.
4. The adhesion rate increases significantly.

Building a private house is a rather lengthy process that requires a certain amount of time and considerable effort. Many owners of suburban areas want to save on construction costs by doing some of the work themselves. To figure out how to make wooden floors in a private home, you should take care of preparing the materials, as well as choosing the necessary tools.

Choosing a floor design

Before starting work, you should select the type of floor construction. Among the most common are the following varieties:

• single;
• double;
• concrete floor.

The choice of a specific design is based on the characteristics of the building in which the floor will be laid. The main factor influencing this decision is the nature of the use of the house. When choosing a single design, it is worth considering that it is only suitable for summer houses or dachas. The installation of such a floor in a house with year-round occupancy is unacceptable.

In this case, the boardwalk is simply laid on the logs. The thermal insulation of such a floor is very low. To construct such foundations, you do not need to prepare a lot of material. Work on installing a single floor is carried out quite quickly.

If you decide to build a capital private house, in which you can live at any time, you should start constructing a double floor. This design is more insulated than the single version. The main layers of such a floor are the rough and finishing coating. Between them are placed layers of hydro- and thermal insulation. Such a floor arrangement can protect the entire structure of the house from destruction.

Often the rough layer of double flooring in country house made from unedged boards. The finishing is done from tongue and groove boards. All stages of work can be carried out independently. Thermal insulation is usually made of expanded clay.

Another option for creating a floor in a private house is a concrete base. Such structures are made by pouring a concrete screed. If you meet all the requirements when creating such a floor, it will be durable and strong. It can also be finished with any coating.

Laying a wooden floor

Wooden flooring is chosen quite often to create a covering in private homes. This is due to its environmental friendliness. Many people want to have high-quality wood flooring. Such floors have a number of significant advantages.

With careful processing, wooden flooring can last for decades without changing its appearance and physical characteristics. In addition, wooden floors have high thermal insulation properties. They create comfort in the house. In addition, the installation of wooden flooring is done by hand. To work, you will need to prepare a standard set of tools.

Before making a floor in a private house, you should take care of choosing the type of wood. It should be selected according to the type of structure. The floor is made of several layers. It must contain heat and waterproofing. The subfloor acts as an air gap. At her expense wooden elements will not be exposed to moisture. They will not develop mold or mildew.

The floor covering is constantly subject to mechanical stress during operation. That is why the wood that will be chosen for the floor must have good technical indicators. Before installing the covering, the boards should be dried. The humidity of wooden elements should not exceed 12%.

It is also worth visually inspecting the elements of the future floor. There should be no chips or cracks on them. Otherwise, this may affect the quality of the coating. Also, before installation, wooden elements are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will extend the service life of such products.

Installation of a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

• First you need to determine where to install the supports. Gravel should be poured in place of the removed fertile soil. Sand is poured on top. This is how the pillow is made. Each layer should be compacted thoroughly. The ends of the support pillars are wrapped waterproofing material. Typically, roofing felt is used for this purpose.
• After this, the beams should be laid. And they are attached to the supports using corners and self-tapping screws. Floors in a country house should be carefully insulated. Professional builders It is recommended to lay plywood sheets before installing the insulation. Mineral wool is usually used as insulation material.
• When the insulation layer has been laid, the rough flooring can begin. The boards should be selected so that they fit tightly together. Self-tapping screws are used to connect them to the beams. About 1.5 cm is left between the subfloor and the walls. Such gaps make it possible to eliminate distortions in the structure due to thermal expansion.
• A vapor barrier is laid on top of the subfloor. It is usually 200 microns thick. The joints of the canvas are taped with construction tape. The edges of the vapor barrier are placed on the walls to a height of 20 cm. After laying the film, you should begin laying the finishing coating.

For the finished floor, solid wood boards are used. Sheets of plywood can also be used. They are much easier to attach. However, their appearance leaves much to be desired. For this reason, it is better to choose tongue and groove boards. Plywood can be covered in different ways decorative finishing. Floorboards are usually varnished. This allows you to protect the coating from various influences. Also, through the use of varnish, you can emphasize the aesthetic properties of a wooden floor. You can build a heated floor with your own hands if you construct a concrete screed.

Concrete floor

Creating a concrete base requires some preparation. First, the site on which it is planned to create the floor must be cleared of debris. You also need to remove the top layer of soil. The earth must be compacted. Gravel is poured on top. The concrete floor structure should be insulated. The gravel layer is covered with sand. Once it is compacted, you can lay down plastic film. It will become a reliable waterproofing.

Then the work is carried out according to standard scheme. Reinforcement bars are placed on the waterproofing layer and concrete solution is poured. Concrete screed in this case, it is carried out similarly to that which is equipped in the apartment. To make the floor level, you need to set the beacons. As soon as the concrete dries, they should be removed. The solution is leveled using the rule. The work is done from the wall towards the doorway.

In the process of pouring concrete mortar, it is better to do the work according to certain rules. For example, the mixture must be fresh. Also, in the process of its preparation, cement of a certain brand is used. It must be no lower than M300. In addition, water and sand sifting are added to the solution. Plasticizers increase the strength of concrete.

If the screed is more than 5 cm, reinforcement should be laid. For this purpose, a ready-made mesh is usually purchased. She is laid on waterproofing film. When creating a heated floor system in a country house, the use of plasticizers and reinforcement is mandatory.

As soon as the concrete gains strength, you can pull out the beacons and fill the resulting voids with concrete mortar. It takes about a month for concrete to completely harden. A warm floor in a private house will require the installation of heating elements either during the screed or after its construction.

Drying the floor follows certain rules. The base should be covered plastic film. The concrete must be wetted within three days. If the screed has a heated floor system, it is prohibited to turn it on until the solution has completely hardened. Otherwise, the floor will crack.

Finishing

Laying the topcoat is quite simple. Decorative elements are installed independently. Choice finishing depends on the tastes of the owner of the house. It is also worth considering the characteristics of the floor.

There are several options. The most common one is boardwalk. In this case, the finished floor does not need to be additionally covered. When choosing this option, the result is quite beautiful and practical covering. In addition, floor boards will last for decades if properly treated. They are usually impregnated special compounds and coated with varnish. This allows you to protect the floor from dirt and various chemicals.

Concrete flooring in a country house is usually done taking into account the installation of the finishing coating. Parquet is usually chosen for its finishing. However, such a floor will be quite expensive. It is characterized by high environmental friendliness and an excellent degree of thermal insulation. It is not advisable to install parquet flooring in a country house, because permanent residence is not planned in it. However, for a permanent structure such a coating will be optimal.

Other flooring materials include carpet, laminate, tile and linoleum. Laminate flooring is installed in the living room and bedrooms. Linoleum is only suitable for flooring in the hallway and kitchen. Tiles are also used to cover the floors in the kitchen and hallway. Carpet should also be used for the bedroom.

The variety of modern colors and flooring materials allows you to choose more best option coverings. Floors with different patterns look very beautiful. Looks impressive natural stone and wood.

Conclusions

To figure out which types of flooring are more suitable for a private home, you should know the operating features of the building. For example, for country house there is no need to arrange the floor in several layers. It also does not need to be insulated. Such buildings are used only in warm time year. Also, flooring in a private house is usually done using wood. This material has a low price and is also easy and quick to install.

For permanent buildings it will be necessary to equip more complex design. Wooden floors must have several layers, including hydro- and thermal insulation. Before installing such a floor, you must carefully prepare. You will also have to pick up quality materials. Before you decide, flooring What type to make in a private house, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each type of floor.

The concrete foundation is being built in stages. It is chosen only when it is necessary to create a reliable and durable floor.

The subfloor in a wooden house serves to create a rigid frame, as well as a platform for installing thermal insulation. In addition, the subfloor serves as the basis for the finishing floor. The comfortable microclimate in the room and the service life of the entire house depend on the correctness of its arrangement, which is why it is better to entrust the process of installing the subfloor to professionals. This will avoid further problems during operation, namely the “creaking” of boards, frequent repairs etc.

Laying floors with insulation

Our specialists will install the subfloor in accordance with all requirements and standards for this species works At the initial stage of preparatory work, logs, boards and crowns are treated with antiseptic preparations, ensuring high-quality ventilation and waterproofing of the underground space. After which the rough boards are laid in one of the three most common ways - on the shoulders, using pre-prepared grooves of beams or cranial bars.

Subfloor in a log house	Subfloor option	Laying the subfloor

In our work we use both traditional ways construction and innovative developments, which allows us to provide high quality and efficiency of execution.

Finished parquet floor	Finish floor board	Finish laminate floor

After the work on laying the subfloor is completed, you can begin installing the finished floor. Today, manufacturers offer a wide selection of materials, among which the consumer can choose the most suitable option for themselves. The most common and environmentally friendly flooring in a wooden house is made from milled or tongue-and-groove boards. When choosing this material, you should pay attention to the moisture content of the board and its thickness, otherwise in the future such a floor will dry out, large gaps will appear between the boards, and the floor will sag.

Finished flooring

Our craftsmen will not only help you choose the highest quality materials, but will also install such a floor step by step, observing building regulations. In addition, we offer services for installing a warm water floor in a wooden house, dry prefabricated screed, which is used as a base for laminate, tile, carpet or linoleum. You can use one of our services or order turnkey installation of floors.

The cost of the work depends both on its scale, the materials used, and on the number of craftsmen involved. However, in any case, we guarantee that our prices are adequate and an order of magnitude lower than those of our competitors.

In this article we will look at what types of finished wooden floors there are. Plank floors, parquet, chipboard and fiberboard floors, and cork flooring will be discussed in detail. At each point we will reveal the main pros and cons of these types of wooden floors, and also pay attention to the points in laying and caring for each type of wooden floor. In the parquet section we also present types of parquet such as: pronto-parquet, parquet board, piece parquet, inlaid parquet and panel parquet.

Plank floors

Plank floor

Plank floors are floorboards (edged or tongue-and-groove) that are laid on beams or joists. Batten- is lumber that has rectangular section. Dry boards with a thickness of 21-60 mm and a width of 65-250 mm are used as flooring. Standard lengths are from 2 to 6 meters. The tongue and groove floorboard must be planed on four sides. The tongue and groove board has a profile on each of the long edges: on one there is a groove, on the other there is a ridge. This makes the floor easier to assemble and adjacent boards fit together without gaps. If it is not possible to use tongue-and-groove boards, then edged ones are used. When assembled, each edged board should fit tightly against the adjacent one.

Features of plank floors

• The material of the plank floor is natural, environmentally friendly, which is its advantage.
• The disadvantages include the need for painting and antiseptic treatment, as this takes time and requires additional investment.
• Depending on the quality of the wood, climate and other operating conditions, after a certain period of time, plank floors may begin to creak and lag behind the joists.

To correct this defect, the boards are removed and then laid back close to each other. If cracks form due to the drying of the boards, then thin hewn slats are driven into them, pre-lubricated with glue (casein or wood glue). Small cracks are sealed with putty. If the boards begin to sag underfoot, re-lay the floors and install new logs, placing them closer to each other .

• Wooden floors respond to changes in temperature and humidity levels in the room. If the air humidity is insufficient, the wood will dry out (dry out and crack), if it is excessive, it will bend. Optimal humidity in a room with a wooden floor it should be 45-60%, the temperature should be approximately +20° C.

To solve the problem of drying out edged boards, chamfers are made (a chamfer is the edge of a board beveled at an angle of 45°). Then, when laying the floor, there will be a groove between the boards, which visually separates one board from the other; when they dry out and move apart slightly, this will no longer be very noticeable.

• The characteristics of plank floors depend on the wood from which they are made, as well as on the protective coatings.
• On average, the service life of a wooden floor without repair is 4-6 years.

Protective coatings for wooden plank floors:

In order for plank floors to serve for a long time, it is necessary:

• antisepticize the boards from the reverse (inner) side;
• paint them or varnish them with outside.

Antiseptic. Antiseptic treatment is carried out to protect the boards from putrefactive fungus. To treat the boards, water-soluble antiseptics are used: sodium fluoride, ammonium silicofluoride or ammonium fluorosilicate (they are diluted in water in the percentage specified in the instructions, then the boards are coated with a brush or spray). For insects that destroy wood, an antiseptic paste made from sodium fluoride and sodium sulfate is used. These components are diluted in water in a ratio of 5:1:2.

Painting. Varnishing. Painting and varnishing are done on the outside of the board. Varnish and paint protect wood floors from damage and abrasion. From paints they are used oil paints for floors, the varnishes chosen are single-component (that is, they are based on one component), polyurethane and acrylatex, diluted with water. They are easy to apply, there is almost no smell, and they dry quickly. Polyurethane varnish is usually applied in two layers.

Note. Nitrovarnishes are unsafe for human health and are undesirable for use in a residential building.

Painting rules:

• First you need to clean the floor from dust and debris.
• Water-dispersed paint is applied with a brush in the direction along the boards.
• To avoid drips, paint each board separately, without touching the adjacent one.
• You can also use a sprayer for painting.
• When the floor dries, the color becomes lighter, and the floor receives a rich shade after applying a transparent polyurethane varnish over the paint.
• Varnish, like paint, is applied along the boards.
• If you apply a second coat of varnish, do so after a minimum of 2 hours and a maximum of 48 hours.
• If you only want to varnish your plank floor, it is advisable that the planks be made from wood with a beautiful natural grain pattern, like oak and mahogany.

Alternative types of wooden plank floor coverings:

"Aged floor." The board is scraped, causing roughness to form on the surface of the wood. It is then coated with varnish or floor oil.

Tinting. Tinting is the painting of floor boards with stains or oils in different colors. This coating gives the tree specific color, while leaving the wood grain visible.

Oil coating. Floor oils include natural vegetable oils and wax. The oil penetrates the wood to a depth of about 2 mm, prevents rotting, disinfects, and protects against fungus. Oil coating is suitable for allergy sufferers. An oiled floor will look like it is made of exotic wood - a wide oak board is suitable for this purpose.

• In narrow rooms, plank floors are laid along the length of the room.
• If there are no boards of the required length, then they are joined, and the joint should be on the logs.
• When laying the floor on a concrete base, a board with a thickness of 21 mm or more is used. If the floor is laid on wooden joists, then - no less than 37 mm.
• When purchasing boards, check them for curvature by laying them on a flat surface with their planes and edges.

Parquet

Parquet - wood covering floor, consisting of individual planks of hardwood. The types of wood used to make parquet include birch, maple, oak, beech, ash, merbay, wenge, and bamboo.

Parquet features:

Advantages:

• natural materials are used;
• the coating is antistatic (does not collect dust);
• when laying parquet, the aesthetic value of the entire room increases;
• good heat insulator.

Flaws:

• parquet is difficult to install;
• sometimes (depending on the type) additional surface treatment (grinding and varnishing) is required;
• parquet is difficult to clean;
• sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity in the apartment;

Thermal conductivity, sound insulation, service life and other characteristics of parquet are determined and depend on the constituent materials of the parquet construction.

types of parquet. a, b - block parquet strips; c - parquet boards and the order of laying the boards; g - type-setting parquet; d - parquet boards.

Types of parquet and their features

Block parquet

It is a set of strips with tongues and grooves for fastening. The planks are made of solid valuable wood. Dimensions of planks: thickness 15-22 mm, length - up to 500 mm, and width - up to 75 mm. Usually the length is a multiple of the width (for example, if the width of the strip is 70 mm, then its length will be 280, 350, 420 mm). The thickness of the planks is 15 mm for hardwood, 18 mm for coniferous species.

There is also a strip wear size - it indicates how much sanding the panel will take - this is the top layer of the strip from the face to the top of the tongue or groove. Wear determines service life parquet flooring. The thickness of the wear layer of hardwood planks is 7 mm, coniferous - 10 mm.

Features of block parquet:

• the ability to replace the strips during repairs;
• possibility of laying a variety of patterns - Christmas tree, deck, wicker, square, etc.;
• block parquet floors are practically non-slippery;
• usually placed in the hallway or living room;
• produced both with and without varnish;
• durability (up to 100 years) depends on the type of wood and operating conditions;
• reacts to high humidity (lasts a long time at humidity up to 30%);
• piece parquet is attached to the screed ( moisture resistant plywood or subfloor) and does not create noise effects when walking.

Materials for block parquet: oak, ash, maple, merbau

Types of piece parquet depending on the type of cut:

Rustic. In panel cuts, there are different cuts and grain patterns. Knots up to 10 mm in size are acceptable.

Select. Panels are created by radial and tangential cutting. Defects, knots, sapwood are not allowed.

Radial. Panels having one radial cut. Defects, knots, sapwood are not allowed.

Nature. When cutting panels, different directions of wood fibers are allowed. Dotted knots of the eyes are acceptable.

• The parquet must be sealed in thick plastic film and packed in a rigid box.
• There should be no dark burn marks on the surfaces of the planks - front, back and end.
• There should be no cracks on the planks.

Also, please note that when laying pre-varnished parquet, there are requirements for the horizontality of the base on which it will be laid. The surface of the base must be perfectly flat.

Parquet board

The parquet board is a structure of three layers:

Top layer Parquet boards are made from valuable tree species. Layer thickness - 0.5-6 mm.

Middle layer made from perpendicularly laid slats of coniferous wood (pine or spruce). Thickness - 8-9 mm.

Bottom layer homogeneous - made of pine and spruce, it is placed perpendicular to the previous layer. Thickness - 1.5 mm.

Apply on top of the parquet protective coating : varnish (acrylic varnishes without formaldehyde are used) or a mixture of oil, wax and natural resins.

Average sizes of parquet boards:

• length - 180-250 cm;
• width -14-20 cm;
• thickness -1.4-2.6 cm.

Features of parquet boards:

• easy to install, has locking system tongue-and-groove connections;
• cannot be scraped (only sanded), since a 4 mm layer is removed with the very first cycle;
• Damaged parquet must only be replaced;
• ease of care;
• resistance to changes in humidity and temperature in the room - due to three glued layers, one perpendicular to the other;
• Due to several glued layers, impact resistance is increased. Impact resistance parameters are determined by the thickness of the layers and the material from which they are made. This data should be included in the description for a specific type of board when purchasing;
• resistance to chipping and abrasives;
• service life - from 10 to 25 years - depends on the thickness of the board and material;
• the characteristics of thermal conductivity and sound insulation are based on the characteristics of the materials used in the design.

Types of parquet boards:

Based on (according to GOST 862.3-86) :

PD-1 - It is made on a single-layer slatted base, which is assembled into rectangles and squares located perpendicular to each other. The longitudinal edges of the board are covered with slats.

PD-2- is done on a single-layer slatted base, assembled in the longitudinal direction of the axis of the board.

PD-3- made on a two-layer slatted base. Two layers (slat and veneer or two slats) are assembled perpendicularly and glued together.

By number of planks:

• Single lane parquet board. The top layer is made from one strip of whole piece valuable wood.
• Two-way parquet board. The top layer consists of two strips of planks. Elongated planks are for large areas, shortened ones are for small and medium areas.
• Three-lane parquet board. The top layer is made of a triple row of planks. Their length is different, and their location can be arbitrary. Made in different color combinations.

Panel parquet

Panel parquet

Panel parquet consists of square board-modules laid on a base of boards or fibreboards. Panel parquet is a structure of 3 layers. The two bottom layers provide a rigid base for the parquet. They consist of planks of coniferous wood (usually pine), located perpendicular to each other. The top layer is made from dies of valuable wood of high hardness, its thickness is approximately 4 mm.

Panel parquet is produced with a front surface that is covered with parquet varnish - this reduces the labor intensity of the flooring and the cost of the floor. Dimensions of panel parquet modules: 400x400 mm, 500x500 mm, 600x600mm, 800x800 mm. Thickness: 22, 25, 28, 32, 40 mm. The dimensions of the parquet planks are thickness 4-8 mm, length - 100-400 mm, width - 20-50 mm.

Features of panel parquet:

• difficulty of installation: if you do not maintain a right angle during installation, cracks will form;
• the small thickness of the boards allows you to lay parquet during repairs without removing the old floors;
• suitable for indoor use public use with high load;
• the temperature and humidity conditions of the premises must be stable;
• retains its geometric shape and lasts up to 60-75 years at constant temperature, at humidity up to 40%;
• The characteristics of thermal conductivity and sound insulation depend on the characteristics of the materials used in the construction of panel parquet.

Types of panel parquet

By type of base:

1. Parquet with frame base. The base frames are made in the form of a strap with joints in the corners using glue and spikes.
2. Parquet on a slatted base. The base is lined with peeled veneer on both sides.
3. Parquet with chipboard base. The board is lined with peeled veneer on both sides (the base can also be made of cement-bonded particle board).
4. Parquet with 2 slats base. The base slats are glued together in a mutually perpendicular direction.

By type of face covering :

1. Covered with parquet planks;
2. Covered with square veneer (planed or peeled);
3. Covered with plywood facing board.

The characteristics are similar for all these types of panel parquet. The choice depends on the installation conditions and the requirements for the appearance of the coating.

Stacked parquet

Stacked parquet

Stacked parquet (mosaic) is a square-shaped module consisting of planks 8-12 mm thick. Protective paper is glued to the front of the modules, which is removed after laying the covering on the floor. Stacked parquet is a type of panel parquet. The planks are made from hardwood. This parquet is laid on a wooden or concrete base. It is glued to mastic. Module sizes: from 400x400 mm to 600x600 mm.

Features of inlaid parquet:

• labor-intensive to install;
• used in living rooms, dining rooms;
• decorates the interior beautiful design on the floor.

According to the method of attachment to the base and edge profile inlaid parquet can be:

1. With fastening "on a solid rail". The planks that make up the module have grooves on one long and one short side, and ridges on the other two sides. The parquet is laid using nails. Rarely used due to complexity of manufacture.
2. With fastening "on a soft rail". The module strips have grooves on all four sides. This type is the most common.
3. Module strip with oblique edge.
4. Rebated plank. On all sides of this parquet there are oblique folds that serve to secure the parquet with mastic. Builders believe that such parquet is the most durable and can last up to 40 years.

• As protection, the front side of the parquet is coated with a protective varnish;
• To increase sound insulation, a layer of sound-absorbing material - rubber or foam plastic - is glued to the back side.

Pronto-parquet

Pronto parquet is a multilayer parquet: the front layer is made of hard wood (1); middle layer - pine plate (2); the base is made of spruce veneer (3).

Pronto-parquet is a multilayer piece parquet made of natural wood. The layers of this type of parquet are made from different breeds trees: middle layers are made from pine, ash, acacia, etc. Upper layers are made from: oak, walnut, mahogany, ash, beech, maple, cherry, ebony. Each layer is located crosswise with respect to the neighboring one. Pronto parquet uses tongues and grooves. The total thickness is 10-14mm, the thickness of the top layer is about 4mm. Number of layers protective varnish 7-8. The wood is sanded and then coated with a layer of varnish in the factory, which extends the life of the parquet and increases its strength.

Features of pronto parquet:

• convenient styling;
• the surface is absolutely smooth;
• the process of preparing parquet elements takes about 7 months, and this ensures its high performance;
• can be used in rooms with high traffic intensity;
• has a high cost;
• labor-intensive installation process;
• the base under the parquet must be perfectly level;
• the greatest strength among all types of parquet;
• resistant to changes in temperature and humidity conditions- can be used in rooms with humidity above 40%;
• resistant to deformation;
• The characteristics of thermal conductivity and sound insulation depend on the characteristics of the materials used in the construction of the parquet flooring.

Types of pronto-parquet. Pronto-parquet is made with or without a varnished coating (in this case, the parquet is coated with varnish after installation).

Cork flooring

Cork floor

Cork flooring is a natural material made from the bark of the cork tree. Coatings from natural cork are multilayer construction. They are made using pressed - agglomerated - traffic jams

Features of cork coverings:

• environmentally friendly material;
• the structure consists of particles containing inside their structure a gas similar in composition to air. The particles are separated from each other by an elastic, waterproof shell. Thanks to this structure, cork acts as a thermal insulator, sound absorber and shock absorber;
• cork is antistatic, i.e. does not attract dust;
• the cork is hypoallergenic;
• both dry and wet cleaning cork surfaces;
• has healing effect- due to its elasticity, it is recommended as a floor covering for people with musculoskeletal disorders;
• The job of laying the cork is considered quite simple.

Characteristics of cork coating:

• Waterproof.
• No deformation of the coating surface when exposed to water.
• Has bactericidal properties.
• Abrasion resistant.
• No slipping (creates friction when walking).
• Chemical resistance.
• Fire safety - G1 (non-flammable material).
• Service life - up to 100 years.
• Sound insulation coefficient - from 16 dB.
• Thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.031 W/m*K.

Types of cork coverings

By installation method :

• Adhesive. They are intended, as their name suggests, for gluing over the entire area of ​​the tile to the base. “Adhesive” coatings are produced in the form of tiles with dimensions: 300x300, 450x150, 600x300, 450x450 mm, thickness 4 mm.
• Floating. Such panels are not glued to the base and have grooves and ridges on the edges to connect to each other (similar to a parquet board or laminate). "Floating" floors are panels measuring about 900x185 mm, 4 mm thick.

Floating floors have a panel joining system:

Cork layers

Adhesive system for joining panels: The panels are glued together using a tongue-and-groove joint.
Glueless docking system: the coverings are equipped with special profiled ridges and grooves - locks connecting the panels to each other. The floor can be easily disassembled if necessary. You can walk on it immediately after installation.

Typically, all cork coatings have a top protective layer. Unlike adhesive coatings, “floating” cork coverings have additional layers:

• top protective layer;
• underneath is an inner layer of pressed cork;
• fiberboard base;
• A cork backing is glued to it on the back side.

The base made of fibreboards comes in different densities:

• Plate high density(density greater than 850 kg/m 3) - this is an analogue of the Russian fiberboard - HDF (high density fiberboard);
• Medium density board (density - 650-850 kg/m 3) - MDF (middle density fiberboard).

The additional base layer acts as the supporting base of the cork covering.

By type of outer protective layer:

• No external processing. The most environmentally friendly type of cork.
• Varnish coating. The surface is varnished, it becomes shiny. The varnish protects the floor from dirt. Prevents water and dust from entering pores.
• Oil and wax coating. The oil penetrates the pores of the material, but the properties of the cork do not change. The floor covered with oil will become darker, wax will make it shiny and glossy. Wax will protect the floor from dirt more than oil. Oil protects against water penetration into the pores of the material.
• Covered with polyvinyl film. Dust does not stick to the film; dirt can be easily removed from it.
• Veneer coating of valuable wood species. This event is more of an aesthetic nature, but at the same time it also has protective functions, protecting the road cork material from gross mechanical damage - frequent moving of furniture, from cutting and piercing objects, from the claws of pets, etc. This type of coverage is very expensive.

• the material must be stored in a dry place;
• panels must be in solid plastic packaging;
• stack packs with cork panels one on top of the other horizontally, face up (if the packs are placed vertically, the panels will be deformed and the ends may be damaged);
• When cleaning, do not use metal brushes;
• You should stick pieces of felt on the legs of tables and chairs (rubber leaves stains);
• You cannot use carpets that have a latex or rubberized backing on the back.

Wood floors

This type of flooring rarely serves as a finished floor due to its characteristics.

There are two types of wood board floors: chipboard and fiberboard.

Chipboard floor

Chipboards- composite compressed sheet material from mixed dry wood shavings with urea or phenol-formaldehyde resin, which makes up 6-18% by weight of the shavings.

Chipboard slabs rarely serve as a finished floor. Only one type of particle board is suitable for flooring - PTP-3, GOST 10632-70. Slab dimensions: 600 x 2400 mm, 1200 x 2400 mm. Thicknesses: 8, 10, 16, 18, 25, 28 mm.

Peculiarities particle boards(chipboard) :

• quick and easy assembly;
• special tools are not needed, since to process the slabs it is enough to have ordinary carpentry tools;
• deform when saturated with moisture and further drying;
• not durable - lasts up to 5 years;
• are prone to mechanical damage when walking on sharp heels, rearranging furniture, etc.

Main characteristics of chipboard:

• Fire resistance: when flame retardants are introduced into the chipboard composition - flammability G1 (not produced in Russia);
• Formaldehyde emission class. Shows the permissible content of free formaldehyde in 100 grams of absolutely dry board (according to GOST 10632-89). Plates come in two emission classes: E1 (up to 10 mg), E2 (10-30 mg).
• Sound insulation coefficient - up to 29 dB.
• Thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.2 W/(m K).

Types of chipboard:

• Veneer (veneered). Veneer thickness 0.6 mm. Veneering improves its characteristics - increases the thermal insulation effect, reduces the tendency to mechanical damage, and improves the appearance of the coating.
• Laminated. Lamination is carried out with melamine film at high blood pressure and temperature. This makes the boards more resistant to moisture and damage.
• Simple (polished and unpolished). Does not have a protective coating.

Fiberboard floor

Fiberboards is a sheet material created through a hot pressing process. The boards are based on wood fibers intertwined and formed into a “carpet” (waste from woodworking processes, paper, plant stems, etc.). To increase water resistance, paraffin is added, and for strengthening, binding additives are added (T marking means that phenol-formaldehyde resins are used). Fibreboards are available in the form of square or rectangular sheets. Thickness - from 2.5 to 6 mm. For flooring, it is highly recommended to use fiberboard sheets with a thickness of 5-6 mm. According to the standard, the length is 1.2, 1.6, 2 and 3.6 m, width is 1.2, 1.6, 1.8 m.

Features of fiberboard coatings:

• can be processed well (sawed, ends can be trimmed);
• how large sizes the sheets used, the stronger the coating;
• to create a perfectly flat surface, you can first fill the floor with a self-leveling mixture;
• The fiberboard coating is painted with alkyd enamel for external work;
• moisture absorption up to 18% in 24 hours;
• when humidity changes, they change in size, the slab becomes deformed, and fungus and mold may appear;
• ignite faster than regular wood. ( To increase strength, durability and fire resistance, protection against fungus, the following is added to the composition: water emulsions synthetic resins, emulsions of rosin, bitumen, paraffin, antiseptics and fire retardants, asbestos, alumina, etc.);
• density - 941-1800 kg/m2;
• thermal conductivity coefficient 0.038 ÷ 0.044 W/(mK);
• sound absorption - 21 dB

Fibreboard slabs are marked depending on density:

• superhard - "ST" - density not less than 950 kg/m3.
• hard - "T" - they are used for flooring, density not less than 850 kg/m 3;
• semi-solid - "PT" - normally solid, density 400 - 800 kg/m 3;
• soft - "M" - do not use as an external coating. Density - no more than 350 kg/m3.

• It is necessary to maintain indoor air humidity of approximately 40%, temperature - 20-22°C;
• If the air humidity in the room is greater than specified, then autumn-winter period it is not recommended to leave open windows more than 5-10 minutes;
• It is not recommended to wash the floor with large amounts of water. It is advisable not to use detergents. It is better to clean the floor daily with a vacuum cleaner or a very well wrung-out, slightly damp cloth (if there is a protective coating);
• It is necessary to protect the floor from chemicals: solvents, oils, acids;
• When installing furniture, protect the coating from scratches and chips. It is advisable to install furniture legs on soft pads;
• Do not walk on the surface in shoes with padded heels.

The installation of floors in a wooden house, unlike a stone building, has its own characteristics. This is due to the use of beam ceilings in them, and not reinforced concrete slabs. Design in in this case includes several layers: insulating layers, finished floor with finishing coating. Such floors are usually made on joists or on the first floors, in the absence of a foundation, on pillars. The finishing coating also has its own nuances in a wooden house.

Wooden floors come in single and double layers. Finish single-layer structures are made with or without joists. In the first case, finishing floor boards can be laid in the house directly on beams, if their pitch does not exceed 600 mm.

The two-layer design includes a rough base, on which thermal insulation is laid with a small gap, and a finishing layer on top. The subfloor is a kind of rigidity frame and the basis for installing the remaining elements of the “pie”. The air gap ensures heat retention in the house and protects the floor from distortions and rotting, which protects flooring material from destruction. For subfloors, it is customary to use boards 15–50 mm thick impregnated with an antiseptic.

Wood flooring materials

The installation of the finishing flooring is carried out using milled boards with air vents on back side, necessary for natural circulation air. In the absence of such material, tongue-and-groove boards can be chosen, but since there are no vents in them, attention must be paid to their fit on the joists.

Advice! The boards must be laid along the growth rings - they must be oriented in different directions.

In some cases, concrete floors are made on the ground in a wooden house. In this case, a cement-sand screed is used as a clean floor for laying the floor covering. Additionally, it can accommodate a warm water floor system.

Choosing a floor finish

The material for the top layer of the structure is selected based on functional purpose premises and its design solutions:

• Floors made of larch, cedar, and pine boards are most often used in a wooden house. This finishing coating is environmentally friendly, warm and harmonizes perfectly with the material of the rest of the structure.
• Its installation is made directly along the logs or beams. Additional popular decorations for plank floors include “aging”, tinting, and oil coating.
• Parquet is a finished floor covering made from individual strips of hardwood, including valuable species.
• Cork material made from tree bark.
• Finish floor covering made of fiberboard and chipboard.
• Linoleum - budget and practical option for any premises.
• Laminate is a budget alternative to natural wood floors.
• Finished plywood floors are usually used in rooms where there is no active traffic of people. But from this material, craftsmen create real works of art that are not inferior to palace parquet.
• In this case, only first grade plywood with a sanded face is required.
• Ceramic tiles for finished floors - such flooring is necessary in rooms with high humidity(bathroom, toilet).
• Self-leveling floor - unconventional and very modern solution in a residential building, which can today be more often used in the context of reconstruction of buildings.

The installation of some finished floors in the house, for example, from ceramic tiles, requires, according to its technology, that a cement-sand screed must first be made. In this case, experts recommend dismantling the boards of the existing flooring in the house and filling all the voids between the joists with thermal insulation material, for example, expanded clay. Next, the screed is placed on a flooring made of cement-bonded particle boards.

In many situations, dismantling an old finished wooden floor is difficult. various reasons impossible. In this case, a screed is required directly on top existing structure. Its structure is quite acceptable, and the process itself is not particularly difficult. The screed is performed according to special technology and ultimately turns out to be unattached to the existing coating.

Preparatory stage - cleaning and priming the surface

To obtain a high-quality coating as a result, it is necessary special attention devote to materials for its implementation.

The best method of protecting structures in a wooden house from damage by fungi, mold and rot is a primer. The surface of the existing finished floor is first thoroughly cleaned of dirt and debris. Rotten, damaged boards must also be turned over or replaced with new ones. All cracks found in the finished floor are sealed with putty, and fairly large defects are blown out polyurethane foam. All seams and joints must be processed acrylic sealant. After all the compounds that fill the surface defects have dried, it is again thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust before covering the boards with a moisture-resistant primer.

After the soil and boards have dried, plastic film is laid on them. It should not have any holes, and the connections between its segments should be carefully taped. The screed can be reinforced with metal mesh, but it creates additional load on the floor.

Using water or laser level, the required level of the finished floor is set, and beacons made of slats are installed. They must provide the required rigidity of the coating, not bend and be securely held in the required position. The slats are placed in accordance with the established level on the dense mortar so that the distance between them is slightly smaller than the length of the rule that is supposed to be used to level the mortar. When performing this operation, you must be patient, since this process is quite labor-intensive and lengthy, since cement composition does not stick to polyethylene.

Filling with mortar

The composition from which the screed on a wooden base is made is no different from the traditional one. The mixture is prepared from M400 cement and sifted sand in a ratio of 1:3.

If you plan to install a self-leveling floor over a plank flooring, it is recommended to add a plasticizer modifier to the solution. This could be Plitonit Super, Sika, C3 or their analogues. Another option is to replace the cement mortar ready-made mixtures, for example, Polerem, Ceresit, Polymin. The use of a plasticizer in this case is not required.

The solution is laid in accordance with the installed beacon slats. Minimum height screeds on flooring made of boards when installing a heated floor - 5 cm. The entire surface must be completely filled at once - laying the composition in parts is unacceptable.

The quality of the resulting screed directly depends on the proper organization of the drying process of the solution. The composition gains strength only gradually, therefore, in order to prevent it from drying out, it is necessary to moisten the surface several times a day.

The beacon slats are removed after a few days, and the cavities remaining after them are primed and well rubbed cement mortar. Then the surface is watered generously and covered with plastic wrap for 14 days. Excess polyethylene, after the screed is completely dry, is cut off with a knife.

When installing flooring in a wooden house, especially in conditions overhaul, proper installation of the finished floor will guarantee long-term operation of the building and comfortable living in it.