Time forces you to save. At the same time, increased demands are placed on home security. Metal doors are an invariable attribute of every city apartment. An alternative to them in terms of reliability is only entrance doors made of solid wood, but they are incredibly expensive and themselves provoke an attacker to break in. Nice door made of metal and installation are also expensive. An alternative is a do-it-yourself metal door.
Certainly, homemade door cannot be a full-fledged analogue of the factory one: in artisanal conditions it is impossible to comply with the manufacturing technology. But opening a metal door is quite difficult, and it will produce the necessary psychological effect.
Drawings " Metal door with your own hands":
Manufacturing Features
Attention: when measuring an opening, you must proceed from its real perimeter, i.e. Remove all paint and plaster from concrete slopes.
To make metal doors with your own hands you need:
1. Measure the opening.
2. When calculating the dimensions of the box, you need to lay two centimeters on all sides for the installation gaps.
Video “Making fireproof metal doors with your own hands”:
3. A steel corner is suitable for making a box. The recommended width of the shelves is 5 by 2.5 centimeters. The corner needs to be cut into pieces according to the size of the future box.
4. Place the workpieces on flat surface rectangle. Control measurement - along the diagonals: they must be the same length.
Video “How to make steel doors with your own hands":
5. Weld the door yourself or ask a professional.
6. The canvas frame should be made two centimeters smaller than the box in height and one and a half centimeters in width. For the frame, you can use a corner 4 by 2.5 cm. Weld in the same way as a box.
Video “Making custom metal doors”:
7. Cut a hole for a lock in one of the racks.
8. Weld a loop profile to another rack.
9. Grab spot welding to the frame steel sheet thickness of at least one and a half millimeters. The sheet should overlap the frame by a centimeter (from the lock side - by one and a half).
Video " Self-production doors":
11. Weld the sheet.
12. For hinges, a steel rod 2 centimeters thick is suitable. Place bearing balls into the hinge blanks.
13. Mark on the canvas and box the places where the hinges and their mating parts are attached. Weld the hinges.
14. Clear welds, paint the canvas with protective enamel or powder paint.
16. The inside of the door can be sheathed MDF panels.
The metal front door is ready with your own hands. All that's left is the installation.
Installation methods
Attention: often if you install a factory door yourself, you will lose the warranty on it.
First way mounting the panel into the opening - using mounting plates (if you made the entrance iron door with your own hands, you can weld them in advance).
1. Three plates (eyes) are installed on each rack. When installing the box, the plates must be adjacent to the wall from the inside (so that they cannot be cut off).
2. Place the box in the opening and measure it vertically. There should be a gap of about two centimeters between the box and the opening.
3. Holes for fastening are drilled through the holes in the plates and anchor bolts are inserted.
4. Foam the installation gaps. Once the foam has hardened, the excess is cut off.
5. Hang the canvas on the hinges.
6. They crash best castles for metal doors.
7. Close the gaps with platbands. If the walls of the opening are wide, they are covered with MDF panels.
Second way: if the walls of the opening are wide and the box is recessed inside.
1. Place the box in the opening and align it vertically. The gaps between the box and the walls are from half a centimeter to a centimeter.
2. Through the mounting holes in the box, drill holes for fastening in the wall of the opening (depth - 10-15 centimeters).
3. Insert anchors and tighten.
Third way: concreting the box.
In this case, a hollow box is used, inner part which is filled with concrete. Measure the vertical position of the box, fix the box to the wall with anchors and leave until the solution has completely set.
2. Before hanging the canvas, the hinges need to be lubricated. When adjusting the hinges, loosen the fasteners on them.
Subject to availability welding machine and even if you have little skill in working with it, it would be simply unreasonable to purchase a Chinese product that is not very durable. A do-it-yourself metal entrance door will become more reliable protection from burglary and bad weather. Let us describe in detail the process of its manufacture.
Required materials and tools
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Free instrument 50% success
Before you start making a metal structure, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools for the work.
We will need:
- measuring tape
- carpenter's square for taking measurements;
- metal corner for the door frame and door frame; it can be replaced with a square pipe 40x40 mm; for the manufacture of the internal frame of the box and stiffeners, slightly smaller pipes of 40x20 mm are used
- metal sheets: you should not take material that is too thin; its thickness should be at least 1.5-2 mm
- welding machine
- grinder or wire brush for cleaning welds
- drill with drill bits
- metal anchors or pieces of reinforcement for attaching the structure to the wall
- screws, bolts
- a wrench of the appropriate size for tightening the bolts
- screwdriver
- door hinges capable of supporting the weight of a door weighing over 100 kg
- rim lock
- plywood, MDF, lining or laminate for finishing
Taking measurements
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Welding a metal structure
Even when using standard drawings to assemble an iron door, you will need to take measurements. Perfectly even, symmetrical doorways simply doesn't exist. Therefore, it is necessary to be extremely careful when taking measurements.
One measurement will not be enough - you need to take measurements three times and then select the smallest number obtained. The door leaf should be measured at the top, bottom, and middle.
The height of the opening is determined in exactly the same way. If the old doors have not yet been removed, it is easier to measure them.
In most cases, the width of the canvas is a multiple of 10 cm - its width can be 70, 80 or 90 cm. Please note that the size of the future opening should be 1.5-2 cm smaller sizes the opening itself. The remaining gaps are subsequently filled polyurethane foam. After all, it will be difficult to insert and perfectly align a door cut exactly to the size of the doorway.
Immediately determine which direction they will open. According to SNiP, entrance doors must necessarily open outward, so that in the event of evacuation or transfer of a sick person, it can be opened without hindrance. In this case, you can also save usable space hallway
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How to correctly measure the width of an opening
The opening side is selected taking into account comfort and convenience. Traditionally, doors are made right-handed so that upon entry they can be opened using right hand. But this option can be changed taking into account specific circumstances.
After all, the door should open so as to occupy a minimum free space without causing interference. IN apartment buildings The location of adjacent doors is also taken into account.
Door frame
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So, we will describe in detail how to make an iron door yourself:
1 After cutting a metal corner or pipe to the specified dimensions, you need to fold the resulting parts into a rectangle on a flat surface or welding table, once again double-checking its dimensions.
2 There is no need to cut 45° corners. The metal strips are simply joined end to end.
Metal strips are joined end to end
3 We weld from a corner with a smaller shelf size internal frame. The distance between it and the frame is 3-5 mm.
4 Stiffening ribs are welded from the same corner - sections that are inserted inside the frame.
5 Don’t forget to thoroughly clean all seams with a sander, special abrasive fiber, brush, or pickle them with a seam treatment agent. Otherwise, the smallest remnants of metal, and behind it the metal corner itself, will immediately begin to rust. It is more convenient to grind off large deposits with a grinder or a file.
6 A fairly common mistake made by novice welders is to immediately connect the frame parts cleanly, “tightly”. There is no need to do this under any circumstances - most likely, the frame will have to be trimmed. Therefore, first you just need to “grab” the metal corners, and then align the assembled door frame with a building level not only horizontally and vertically, but along the corners and both diagonals.
7 Check that all parts fit exactly at 90°. Final welding can only begin after alignment.
Frame with internal frame
8 The next step is drilling holes for anchors and attaching hinges. At the same stage, holes are prepared for the lock bolts.
9 To attach the sealing rubber and protect the frame from deflections, small metal plates are welded to it.
10 To insert the frame into the doorway, you can weld steel eyes to it or provide through mounting holes.
Finished door frame
Door leaf
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- The height and width of its frame must match the size of the door frame minus 5 mm on each side for the door to move freely.
- After cutting the sheets (this can be done with a grinder), we clean the edges from burrs with a file or grinder with emery.
- Metal sheets are attached to the frame so that they protrude 10 mm at the top, bottom and side of the lock. The allowance on the hinge side is made slightly smaller - 3-5 mm.
- After “grabbing” the sheets, we check the correctness of fastening, and then weld the seams completely. If the sheets do not move, we proceed to final welding. First, we “sew” them to the main frame, and then attach them to the intermediate stiffeners. There is no point in making continuous seams - it is enough to weld the sheets in small sections.
- The cutout for inserting the lock must be provided before the sheathing.
- At the same stage door leaf You can attach a frame made of wood to secure the trim. For this purpose in in the right places holes are drilled in the metal.
Single sheet metal door design
Connecting the door leaf to the frame
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- Just as with the previous assembly, the seams should first be “tightened” by welding. The final connection is made only after checking the correct installation.
- We drill holes for inserting a key and, if necessary, a peephole.
- To attach the hinges, you need to step back 20 cm from the bottom and top of the door.
- Raise the door (it’s easier to do this together). We fasten the canopies in such a way that the lower elements (the pins are attached to them) are attached to the frame, and the upper ones, called counters, are attached to the door leaf.
- All loops must be located strictly along the same axis. This is not easy to do - you will have to take measurements many times. Otherwise, if an error occurs, the door will warp.
- It is better to hang a massive door not on 2, but 3 hinges.
- Lubricate them immediately so that the door opens easily and does not creak.
Entrance metal structure
Even if the door will be upholstered or finished in the future decorative panels, it should be treated with an anti-corrosion compound or painted. For painting metal, it is better to use the so-called “hammer” enamel, made on an alkyd-styrene base.
Insulation
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Insulate an iron door welded from metal You can use polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. When using polystyrene foam, sheets 4 cm thick are sufficient. Too much density of the material is not needed - after all, the load on it will be small. You will need to purchase 4 square sheets of 1 m wide.
When purchasing polyurethane foam, choose a composition with minimal expansion, otherwise the foam will simply squeeze out. We apply it around the perimeter of the frame, stepping back slightly from the edges. Next, polystyrene foam is laid. All seams between sheets, gaps between foam plastic and metal corner should also be sealed with foam. It can be replaced with Moment glue or any other suitable adhesive composition.
Installation of insulation
At mineral wool or stone wool there is a significant disadvantage– these materials are capable of absorbing moisture. A metal door with this type of insulation will quickly rust. For apartment buildings this is not critical - there is not so much moisture in the entrances. But here's how to insulate street door mineral wool is highly not recommended.
If the door is to be removed in the future self-adhesive film, There is no need to cover the insulation with chipboard. Any irregularities will be immediately visible. Replace Furniture chipboard moisture resistant plywood. It is attached to the metal using self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes.
Metal door covered with film, trimmed with molding
You can decorate a door covered with film with moldings - decorative strips made of metal or polymer materials, painted to resemble wood, stone, silver or gold.
Inserting a metal door into an opening
Install massive metal structure alone is unrealistic. You will need an assistant.
Removing the old door
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- Before installation iron doors The old door leaf should be removed from the hinges. To do this, place a crowbar under its bottom, lift the structure and remove it from its hinges. Some types of hinges have to be unscrewed. This must be done starting from the bottom.
- On an old metal door, after dismantling the slopes, you need to find its attachment points. To do this, plaster is knocked down in the area of the proposed anchors or reinforcement. All metal parts are cut off with a grinder, and then the old box is pulled out.
- Regular wooden box easier to remove. It is enough to cut the side posts in the center, and then, using a crowbar, pry them out of the opening.
- All loose pieces of brick and putty should be knocked down. The resulting voids are filled with new bricks and then covered cement mortar. Small potholes will be filled with foam in the future, so you can leave them alone for now.
- Significant protrusions are knocked down with a hammer or cut off with a grinder.
- Pay attention to the condition of the threshold. In old houses in these places they install wooden beam. If it is damaged, the beam needs to be replaced. You can check its safety with an awl. Insert it into the wood and try to loosen it. If this can be done easily, the timber has become unusable.
Removing the door frame
Door insert
1 It is more convenient to install it with the door leaf removed from its hinges.
2 The frame is installed on pads 2 cm high. With their help, the structure will be leveled. If no mistakes were made when welding the front door and all measurements were taken correctly, it should fit into the opening freely.
3 Check with a bubble or laser level arrangement of the structure horizontally and vertically. When checking vertically, you can use a plumb line - a weight suspended from the side.
4 After leveling, we wedge the door frame using wooden or special plastic wedges. They are located closer to the fastening points. There should be three of them on the sides, two on the top.
5 We check again with the level to see if we accidentally moved the frame to the side.
6 There are two ways to fasten metal doors. In the first case, the lugs should be pre-welded to the frame. If the walls are not thick enough, through holes are made in the box into which anchors or small pieces of reinforcement will be inserted.
Door fastening methods
7 To install anchors or reinforcement in the wall, you will need to prepare holes with a depth of 30 cm. The size of the drill must match the diameter of the fastener. You can mark the drilling depth on it using masking tape.
Installation of anchors
8 After inserting anchors or reinforcement, they are additionally driven in with a hammer. If you need to move the fastener a little, insert a screwdriver between it and the wall, tapping it with a hammer.
9 Fastening begins from the hinge side. Then two fasteners are inserted from above, below and one from the side of the lock. The anchors should not be over-tightened - the door frame may need to be adjusted.
10 We check with a level whether we have displaced it when driving in the fasteners.
11 We hang the door leaf. Let's check its progress. If there are distortions, cracks, or jammed locks, you will have to remove it and re-align the position of the box horizontally and vertically.
12 If the door leaf is installed correctly, it must be removed again and the anchors finally tightened. First, tighten the bolts from the hinge side, then from the lock side. The last ones are the bottom and the top.
13 After the final hanging of the web, its progress is checked again.
14 To create a reliable sound and heat insulating barrier, all gaps between door frame and the wall is filled with foam. Its expansion coefficient should be minimal - it is easier to work with such a solution.
15 Excess foam should be removed immediately with a damp cloth. If you delay a little, after 5 minutes it will be problematic to erase it - the surface of the door will have to be scraped.
Prices for doors, which no house or apartment can live without, are, to put it mildly, “biting” today. But even if you pay a considerable amount, you will not necessarily receive a quality product. Therefore, it is much safer and cheaper to make entrance doors yourself. We'll tell you how.
What materials are entrance doors made from?
Gone are the days when entrance doors were made exclusively of wood. Today, the list of materials used by manufacturers has expanded, but the list cannot be called impressive. Judge for yourself.
Since the door leading to a house or apartment must, first of all, protect against the entry of thieves, the materials from which interior door blocks are made: MDF and chipboard are not suitable for its manufacture. Firstly, such a door is easy to break down. Secondly, these materials are not resistant to moisture. Therefore you have to choose between:
- tree. It is used extremely rarely, since such a door is easy to knock down;
- iron. It more reliable than wood, but due to susceptibility to corrosion requires ongoing care- painting;
- steel. The most reliable, but also the most expensive option, especially when we're talking about about armored models. Steel does not rust, cannot be pierced, and has the most long term services.
Steel (from German Stahl) is an alloy of iron with carbon (and other elements). The carbon content in steel is from 0.1 to 2.14%. Carbon gives iron alloys strength and hardness, reducing ductility and toughness.
If you decide to do DIY entrance doors, we advise you to stop at metal model, we will talk about it further.
The manufacture of any product requires certain skills; in the case of metal, this is welding. If you do not have this skill, you will have to seek help from a specialist, but this will increase the costs.
Before starting work, you should make a drawing indicating the dimensions. To do this, measure the doorway, subtract 2 cm from the resulting height and width, and get the dimensions of the future door block. The work on manufacturing metal doors is divided into four stages:
- frame manufacturing. It must have perfect right angles and stiffeners. There are no strict requirements for their placement: you can weld them diagonally, horizontally and vertically;
- trimming the door leaf. The dimensions of the metal sheet should be a couple of centimeters longer and frame width. When welding, small gaps are left between the frame and the canvas;
- installation of fittings. The canopies are welded simultaneously to both the frame and the door leaf. Use from 2 to 4 hinges, but the distance from the top and bottom edges of the door leaf to the nearest hinge should not exceed 20 cm;
- sheathing The cladding is done to give the door an aesthetic appearance. attractive appearance. Therefore, the metal sheet is covered with dermantine, artificial leather, or PVC film. But do not forget to pre-treat the metal against corrosion.
DIY metal entrance doors - instructions
To make DIY metal entrance doors, you will need:
- welding machine;
- grinder with a metal disc;
- metal sheet with a thickness of 2 mm;
- square metal pipes (50 x 25 mm or 40 x 20 mm);
- turning canopies (hinges).
Using a grinder, cut the door leaf to your size.
Weld the frame, accurately aligning the corners. Don't forget to install the tack (crossbar - stiffener). Weld the frame to the canvas. Do the welding in different places, then the metal will have time to cool.
Weld the awnings to the door sash. To prevent them from rubbing against it, provide sufficient clearance by stretching a wire between the loot and the canopy.
Weld the upper part of the awnings to the door leaf and hang it on the hinges.
Now all that remains is to weld the handle, install the lock, line it and insulate it. This video will help with the latter:
Assortment of modern construction market rich: in specialized stores you can. Metal, wood, plastic, combined – all entrance doors have special specifications in matters of manufacturing. The desire to make a metal door block yourself arises for a number of reasons. For example, you want to get a design with specific requirements and additional materials, product required high quality at a minimum cost.
Tools and materials
Making a metal door with your own hands actually refers to budget option: creating a product yourself will cost much less than buying it finished design. Of course, in order to produce truly functional and stylish door, you must own the tool and have some experience in welding.
In addition, you will need competent drawings, quality materials And professional tools. Let us list the main components that are used in the process of creating a metal door composition:
Photo: door perimeter seal
The list of the above materials and tools required to create a metal door is approximate: the finishing solution depends on the type and functional value future design. For example, when making a vestibule or entrance door, it is best to purchase a thick metal sheet. You can also use two sheets of metal: in this case, the space between them must be filled with insulation.
A metal workbench will be very useful
One more interesting material for making a door, although not an entrance one, is.
Step-by-step manufacturing instructions
The creation of a metal door consists of four main stages: the manufacture of the frame, the production of the metal leaf, the installation of fittings and the covering of the product. A typical door structure is two meters high and 90 cm wide.
Let's look at the features of working on creating a metal door:
- Frame . The manufacture of the frame must begin after all measurements have been taken. The dimensions of the door frame must be optimal: the metal frame must fit harmoniously into doorway, so a gap of 2 cm should be left on each side.
- Canvas . Gaps must also be left between the frame and the metal sheet, and the sheets should protrude slightly from the edges of the frame. It is necessary to carry out welding work in small areas. The seams are made no more than 4 cm in length, and the distance between adjacent seams should not exceed 20 cm.
- Accessories . For the production of loops it is used steel bars having a diameter of 2 cm. The loops are welded to the canvas and metal frame simultaneously. Professionals recommend carrying out mandatory anti-corrosion treatment products: with its help the door will last for decades.
- Facing . You can use any material you like: vinyl artificial leather, PVC film, faux leather, leatherette and others.
Basic steps in making a metal door with your own hands:
- Take measurements of the opening and leave about 2 cm from the walls to the frame in order to eliminate all the cracks with polyurethane foam. In addition, such a gap will correct the installation of the door if the opening is skewed.
- Cut a metal corner according to the selected dimensions (approximate dimensions - 50x25 mm) and place it on the table for welding. Measure the length of the diagonals of the rectangle: they should be equal. You can start welding only if all dimensions are the same. This is how a door frame is made.
- Measure the finished box according to internal space, taking into account a 1-centimeter gap on each side of the structure around the perimeter. Cut a corner with dimensions of 40*25 cm for the blade. Use a grinder to make a small slot in the lock profile at the optimal level for installing the lock.
- At the same time, they are hammered into the metal profile wooden slats optimal dimensions. This is done to simplify facing work.
- Also, for ease of welding, it is recommended to immediately weld the hinge profile to the metal box and hinges. It is necessary to ensure a perfect match between the hinges and the door frame: to do this, carefully check the distance between them. Subject to this condition Hanging the door will be easy.
- You should check whether the profiles of the door leaf and the frame are parallel, after which the remaining door leaf profiles are inserted and welded into the latter.
- Then the sheet of metal is welded. First, the canvas is measured: on each side there should be 10 mm on the door slam, with 15 mm on both sides of the lock. The sheet is cut to the specified dimensions and placed on the product from the profiles.
- First, the loop part is welded from the back of the sheet in the internal cavity, then the sheet is welded around the perimeter.
- The false strip is welded with inside metal sheet. For better strengthening door design You can weld special stiffeners.
- Clean the weld seams and paint the product. It is recommended to paint the door even if you will be covering it in the future. Additional coating will prevent corrosion.
- Install two locks. To do this, a hole is drilled in the corner for the bolt to enter, then a slot is formed for fastening the lock in the metal sheet. You can also cut a hole for the door lock.
- Cover the door. It can be covered with planks or panels of wood, glued PVC film, repeating the texture of wood, or, for example, use leatherette. Many people simply paint the canvas and then weld interesting forged elements decor. You can also use curly ones metal sheets or soft elements.
Material on topic. Read directly in our review.
An insulated metal door is not a luxury! This vital necessity in our climate. So, in the corridor there was a door made of hardwood. Its main shortcomings were - huge weight and the constant cold that passed through the cracks in the wood. This is, to say the least, not good. And in the end, it was decided to replace it with a metal one, and insulated one.
So, making a metal door will be done with your own hands! Why independent production? It's simple! The quality of both the metal itself and the insulation of cheap doors is questionable. I wouldn’t want to come home one day and find that you were robbed by opening the door with an ordinary can opener. Or, in the chilly winter season, looking around at a frozen door... On the other hand, really quality doors They cost money, and not little. And there is no desire to part with a round sum either. That’s why we focus on making a metal door with our own hands. In this case, you won’t have to worry about quality and you won’t need large financial investments.
What are the requirements for this door? It should be light, not allow heat to pass through, and have a lock. This is more than enough.
What tool do we need?
- Grinder, cutting wheel for metal and grinding;
- welding machine, 3 mm electrodes;
- hammer, chisel, core;
- screwdriver;
- tape measure, chalk;
- drill, drill 4 mm, 9 mm;
- file;
- square
Material:
- corner with shelf 40 mm;
- corner with shelf 25 mm – 1 m;
- rod 8 mm – 2 m;
- metal sheet 2 mm;
- insulation (foam or wool - basalt or mineral).
- lock;
- QSB or OSB sheet;
- wood screws 51 mm long;
- riveter, rivets 12 mm (diameter 4 mm);
- overhead handle;
- mortise lock;
- sealing tape.
First of all, we take measurements from the loot; we will also make it from a corner. IN in this case its dimensions are 1880 mm * 840 mm.
Cut the corner to size.
Then, on the corners of a length of 1880, measure 40 mm (the width of the shelf) and draw a connecting line at an angle of 45 degrees.
We file the corner and process it with a file, leaving no burrs.
We perform this operation with the remaining corners. We attach the loot to the doorway. To do this, you will need screws or dowels, depending on the wall material. We mark a long corner, we will attach it with 5 screws. On each edge we make an indent of 20 mm and mark it. We divide the corner in half, put a mark and retreat 470 mm from each edge, mark the same.
We core the metal in the marked places and drill with a 4 mm drill. This is done from the back of the corner. Then we turn it over reverse side and remove the chamfer. The diameter of the drill must be equal to the diameter of the screw head, in this case 9 mm.
Let's move on to making the door frame. We measure the wall thickness of the corner - 4 mm. The gap between the hatch and the door should be 5 mm on each side. It turns out that the width of the door frame is 840-4*2-5-5=822 mm. The height, in turn, is 1862 mm. Everything is done in the same way as in the case of loot.
We clean the welding seam inside and outside the slug with a grinding wheel.
We weld the door frame in the same way.
We divide the door frame into 3 parts and apply marks. We weld rods in these places, which serve as spacers and will create a stiffener for the sheet of metal.
We cut the corner with a 25 mm shelf into equal parts of 30 mm. Quantity – 14 pieces. We will have an OSB sheet attached to these corners. At a length of 820 mm there will be 4 corners, at 1860 mm - 5 pieces. We weld the corner pieces. Don't forget to beat off the slag.
You should take extra sealing tape. We cut 6 pieces of 30 mm each, and glue them in the corners of the loot, as well as in the middle. This is done so that ultimately the door fits snugly against the hatch.
After this, we put the skeleton of the door in the loot, grab the canopies (you can also make them yourself, more details), and scald them.
We remove the door frame from the hinges, mark a groove for the lock tongue, drill holes and bore them with a file.
We weld a plate under the lock and attach the lock to it at three points.
Place the sheet on the door, mark it, cut it off.
We will fasten the sheet to the skeleton with rivets. Since the thickness of the sheet with the corner is 6 mm, rivets should be taken with a margin. Their length is 12 mm. We fasten the sheet along the contour of the frame and at 4 points in the middle.
The outer part of the door is ready.
Let's move on to insulation. Cutting mineral wool into pieces, adjust to the size of the door and lay it down.
We transfer the size of the inner part of the door frame to the OSB sheet, mark it and cut it with a hacksaw for metal (can be slotted). We drill holes for rivets, an overhead handle, and saw a groove for the lock handle. Let's rivet. We glue the sealing gum onto the loot. At this point, the insulated metal door from the corner is ready. In terms of its characteristics, it is not much inferior to expensive store-bought ones, but it costs much less.
