How to fertilize the soil in the fall if there is no manure? Many summer residents ask this question. After all, autumn is the ideal time to apply fertilizers. IN winter period the soil rests, and all the organisms that are in it allow the beneficial components to be processed. In addition, applying fertilizers in the fall allows you to prepare your garden for spring.
Synthetic or natural
After harvesting it is necessary for the next season. However, not all summer residents know how to fertilize the soil in the fall if there is no manure? Some people think that it is better to use several complex mixes at once. Some people, on the contrary, recommend using various fertilizers separately. This is the wrong approach. After all, some are natural and synthetic additives may lose most of their beneficial properties during the winter.
To use fertilizers correctly, you need to know exactly which ones can be applied to the soil in the fall and which ones should be left until spring. In addition, it should be noted that not all supplements are universal. Some can only be used on trees, while others can only be used on soil intended for planting vegetable crops.
Bird droppings
So, how to fertilize the soil in the fall if there is no manure. Bird droppings are considered the most concentrated organic fertilizer. This fertilizer is ideal for strawberries. However, in spring and summer it is very difficult to apply such fertilizer. After all, bird droppings are a caustic substance that can destroy a plant. Especially if the solution gets on the roots of the bush. In addition, fertilizing must be carefully prepared. Bird droppings are fermented, then settled and diluted with water.
It is best to use this fertilizer in the fall. Such organic matter can be added to the soil, which will then be dug up. Bird droppings do not need to be prepared or diluted. Moreover, there is no need to apply fertilizer annually. In addition, this can negatively affect the condition of the plants. It is better to apply bird droppings to the soil once every few years.
Application of compost
How to fertilize the soil in the fall if there is no manure and bird droppings? In this case, many summer residents use compost, distributing it throughout the site. Often such fertilizer is dug up along with the soil. You can also cover the soil with compost in a continuous layer before plowing. However, according to experts, these are not the most effective methods.
After the entire crop has been harvested from the beds, all weeds should be weeded out. After this, there is no need to dig up the soil. It should be covered with an even layer of compost. Finally, it is recommended to pour the additive with an EM preparation, previously diluted in accordance with the instructions. After processing, the soil should be loosened with a Fokin flat cutter and not touched until spring. This method of adding compost helps maintain soil fertility. The earth does not turn sour.
What plants is it suitable for?
Thanks to this fertilizing, there is no need to apply additional fertilizing in the spring. This fertilizer is suitable for potatoes. In the fall, compost is distributed throughout the site, and tubers are planted in the spring. Harvest dates are shifted by approximately 2 weeks. It is worth noting that this fertilizer is suitable for all early vegetable crops.
What fertilizers should be applied to fruit trees in the fall? Many people recommend using compost. After all, the garden also needs additional nutrition. It is worth noting that such a substrate is often used to protect the root zone of all fruit trees. To do this, compost is laid in a fairly thick layer around the entire diameter of the trunk. The fertilizer is left here until spring. When the first warm days arrive, the soil around the trunks must be carefully loosened. Thanks to such manipulations, the beneficial components contained in the substrate penetrate deep into the soil and begin to nourish the roots of trees and shrubs.
Should I use ash?
Organic fertilizers should be applied wisely to the soil in the fall. TO natural fertilizers It’s worth including the ashes too. This substance is rich in potassium. It is usually applied to heavy, clay soils. If the soil is soft, then there is no point in using it. It will be washed away from the soil structure by spring meltwater. As for the application rate, at 1 square meter All you need is a glass of ash.
It is worth noting that this fertilizer is ideal not only for replenishing potassium reserves in the soil, but also for combating certain pests that can cause severe harm to certain crops. To do this, the area that will be used for planting garlic and onions must be thoroughly sprinkled with ash. This should be done on the last warm autumn days. The ash should cover the beds with a fairly dense layer at least 1 centimeter thick.
This organic fertilizer can be used to protect winter garlic and onions. In this case, it is recommended to reduce the amount of ash. The layer thickness should be no more than 20 millimeters.
Superphosphate
What fertilizers are applied to the soil in the fall? It may not only be organic fertilizers, but also synthetic. For example, superphosphate. The main component of this compound is phosphorus. This substance dissolves in the soil more easily than others. Therefore, it is recommended to make such additives in the fall. Phosphorus fertilizers are the main group of fertilizers. In 6 months, the active component has time to completely dissolve. In summer, phosphorus is an excellent nutritional base for any plant.
How much do you need to deposit?
Fertilizers for digging in the fall should be applied in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. If there are no instructions on the package, then you should adhere to the following standards:
- Monophosphate (simple superphosphate) - 40 to 50 grams are required per 1 m2.
- Double superphosphate - 20 to 30 grams required per 1 m2.
- Granulated superphosphate - 35 to 40 grams required per 1 m2.
As for ammoniated superphosphate, it is not used for autumn application. After all, such fertilizer is enriched with nitrogen, which is lost during the winter. Many experts recommend adding preparations containing potassium to the soil along with superphosphates. Without this component, phosphorus will not dissolve well.
Is it possible to use phosphate rock?
So, what fertilizers are applied to the soil in the fall? This list includes phosphate rock. It is used to feed impoverished and leached chernozems, which are being prepared for spring liming. This supplement is of natural origin. These are ground rocks.
Many experts recommend applying such fertilizers during digging in the fall along with manure. This promotes better dissolution of phosphorus in the soil. In addition, it is not suitable for every plant, since it contains calcium. The main advantage of the supplement is its natural composition. This fertilizer is absolutely safe for humans.
Organic fertilizer - urea
Fertilizing the soil in autumn - important process. Urea can be used for these purposes. It refers to nitrogen fertilizing. The second name of the substance is urea. The main active ingredient is amide nitrogen. Thanks to this component, urea can be applied to the soil in the fall. After all, during this period there is no point in using nitrogen fertilizers. As for urea, the main substance in it is contained in amide form. This prevents nitrogen from leaving the soil.
How to use urea
So, what fertilizers should you apply in the fall for fruit trees, and which ones should you use for the beds? Urea is typically used in combination with phosphorus supplements. Of course, nitrogen fertilizer can be applied in the spring. However, there will be much less time for this. To fertilize the soil, superphosphate should be neutralized with limestone or chalk. In this case, it is necessary to observe proportions. For 1 kilogram of superphosphate, 100 grams of limestone or chalk are required. To one part of such a mixture it is worth adding two parts of urea. The mixture should be mixed and then applied to the soil. For 1 m2, from 120 to 150 grams of the finished composition are required.
As for fruit trees, urea in combination with manure should be used for feeding. In this case, the amount of urea should be less. For 1 m2, 40 to 50 grams will be enough. It is worth considering which tree the fertilizer will be applied to. For example, to feed an apple tree, 40 grams of superphosphate, 70 grams of urea and 5 buckets of animal organic matter are required.
Potassium sulfate
Fertilizing the soil in the fall is of particular importance. Calcium sulfate is an additive that is used in combination with phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizers. This preparation is often used to fertilize the soil around gooseberry, currant and raspberry bushes. In addition, the additive is suitable for feeding garden strawberries and strawberries.
Potassium sulfate, which was added to the soil in the fall, allows the shrubs to easily overwinter. This increases the survival rate garden crops even in severe frosts. As for dosage, 1 m2 requires no more than 30 grams of fertilizer.
Calcium chloride
A similar substance is used as fertilizer for potatoes. In autumn, the drug scatters across the fields. Suitable for soil that will be used for spring planting of plants that do not tolerate chlorine. This substance is an unstable element. Six months after applying such fertilizer, the chlorine will partially erode or dissolve in melt water. At the same time, calcium will be well preserved in the soil. It is recommended to apply no more than 20 grams of such fertilizer per 1 m2.
It is not recommended to add microelements individually to the soil in the autumn, since only a small part of them will be preserved by spring. As a result, the substances will not be able to affect plant productivity.
Fertilizer during planting is a highly effective way to achieve maximum yield of agricultural crops, incl. on depleted and poor soils, which is especially important in small private farms and in the country. Concentration nutrients e in the feeding zone minimizes their leaching, migration in soil structures and theft by weeds; it also promotes the development of a compact, powerful root system, which is the key to the health of the plant and its resistance to diseases and pests.
The Dutch, for example, largely thanks to wide application spot (cluster) fertilizing of plants during planting makes it possible to obtain fantastic stable yields environmentally friendly products from patches of land. This method is more labor-intensive than thoughtlessly scattering fertilizer across the field, but when a family runs a farm on an area of up to 100-250 acres, it is more than economically justified.
However, fertilizing during planting should be done with full consideration of the biology of this particular plant species, the properties of the soil underneath it and the method of maintaining its culture, because the same increased concentration of elements necessary for the plant in the nutrition zone can lead to accumulation in the fruits harmful to humans substances, primarily nitrates. Simply put, when planting, you need to fertilize plants much more carefully and carefully, whether feeding will be nested or by area before planting/sowing. This article provides initial information on agrobiology and agrochemistry of fertilizing crops during planting and recommendations for their use for a number of important crops in private farming.
Chemistry or organics?
The general rule for fertilizing the soil when planting plants is that the further the fruits are from the roots, the more preferable it is to apply organic fertilizers when planting.
In addition to poorly soluble ones (for example, phosphate rock), they are easily accessible to roots, but also quickly migrate in the soil and are leached. Their concentration in the feeding zone, as a rule, drops to environmentally acceptable values long before fruit set. relatively slowly releases nutrients into the soil, but for a long time keeps a spot of their increased concentration around the place of application, the side effect of which is an increased risk of accumulation of undesirable substances in tubers and root crops. This is not so dangerous for plants with above-ground fruits, because almost all of them have certain biomechanisms that prevent the penetration of substances necessary for the growth and development of the plant itself into the fruits. However, the peculiarities of the biology of individual cultures and groups of cultures make significant adjustments to the general pattern.
Tubers, roots, fruits, greens
The biology of tuber and root crops is noticeably different from that of plants with fruits “on top”, so fertilizers for them are applied in a slightly different way when planting. Root/tuber crops quickly develop a very active root growth system and increase green mass. At this phase, the rate of migration of nutrients from organic fertilizer into the soil may not be enough for the full development of the plant. Then the plant switches to the development of underground storage organs. By this phase, the initial fertilizing should be completely spent on the formation of feeding roots and aerial parts.
Based on the above, fertilizers should be applied when planting various groups of crops in general according to the following scheme:
- Roots and tubers on light, permeable soils(sandy loam, light loams) - in 2 stages: in the fall, under fall plowing, manure or slightly soluble mineral fertilizers, and in the spring, when planting in holes, light (not particularly concentrated) organic fertilizers - humus, compost. When sowing/planting under agrofilm in the spring, instead of organic matter, use mineral fertilizers, see below.
- The same when planting in a hole on heavy soils– each plant is individually given mineral fertilizers before planting. On depleted soils, it is very, very desirable to organize crop rotation with nitrogen fixers, because all root/tuber crops are very draining on the soil and heavy soils are slow to reclaim. Experienced gardeners know: the best fertilizer for potatoes is green manure peas in the fall.
- Annuals with above-ground fruits– organic matter on light, permeable, non-depleted soils; in all other cases, mineral fertilizers.
- Woody and shrubby fruit and stone fruits– organic to the maximum acc. local conditions for best development plants. The harvest is most often not harvested in the first year, and there is no need to worry about the accumulation of nitrates.
- Green crops and plants with above-ground storage organs used for food (for example, cabbage) - applying fertilizers when planting without basic knowledge in the field of agrochemistry, agrobiology and gardening experience is not recommended: either there will be no benefit, or you will have to eat your own nitrates.
About nitrogen
The golden rule of soil fertilization when planting plants is not to overdo it with nitrogen! It is better to underfeed them than to overfeed them!
From excess, young plants will stretch out and wither; Leaf chlorosis may develop. It is better to completely avoid adding nitrates during planting. If the land is completely depleted (for example, potatoes are planted after potatoes last year), the soil is replenished with nitrogen in the fall before the fall. And yet - highly effective in many cases (see below) is incompatible with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Either one or the other.
Potato
It provides a vital, highly valuable food product, but it itself is a decent glutton and greatly depletes the soil. The homeland of potatoes is the high plateaus of the Andes, the so-called. altiplano, with a harsh climate and sudden changes in weather, therefore the development features of tuber crops described above are especially characteristic of potatoes. Potatoes are grown in a wide variety of climatic conditions planting in holes and under agrofilm, as a result of which Fertilizer for potatoes when planting should be done in accordance with one of 4 typical cases:
- Heavy poor soil;
- It is also quite nutritious;
- Light poor soil;
- It's also quite nutritious.
Note: planting potatoes under agrofilm is becoming increasingly widespread in areas of 20-30 acres, because allows to significantly reduce labor costs. The yield of potatoes planted under film in competent agriculture is no lower than when individually planting tubers in holes.
The earth is heavy and skinny
Prepare a mixture for spring per hundred square meters: 2-3 kg, 1-1.5 kg, 30-50 kg and the same amount of sand (this is filling the soil for planting). In the absence of humus, take 3-4 kg of superphosphate, 1.5 kg of potassium sulfate and 2-3 kg per hundred square meters without sand, but this option is worse, because a lot of ballast will get into the soil.
Further, it will disappear a little from the ground top water and the tubercles will “wither”, you need to scatter the mixture evenly over the area under the potatoes and dig them up. When planting, add complex fertilizers to each hole: 3-5 g, or 2-3 g (about 30 or 20 granules, respectively, if the fertilizer is granular) and a pinch (1/4 - 1/3 teaspoon). An alternative is potato Kemira according to the instructions without bone meal. On acidic soils add a pinch of ground eggshells or dolomite flour (liming the soil). Sprinkle the fertilizer nest with 5-7 cm of soil, throw in the tuber, and wrap it in soil. It is not recommended to plant potatoes under film on depleted soil.
Note: nitrophoska is an explosive substance. Heating it is unacceptable, incl. packaged sun rays. Storage - strictly according to instructions!
Autumn under potatoes
Autumn filling of the soil for potatoes with fertilizers will have a beneficial effect on the yield and condition of the soil for any method of its cultivation. When planting potatoes one by one autumn fertilizer soil for it is required. An alternative to respect in enough warm places– filling the soil with plant fertilizers – green manure. After harvesting the potatoes, the area is sown with nitrogen-fixing plants: peas, clover, lupine, sainfoin, let them grow as long as they can before the cold weather. In the spring, the area with withered nitrogen fixers is plowed/dug up. In this case, refilling the soil before planting is not required; it is enough to add mixtures into the holes or over the area when planting under a film.
The soil is heavy and has average nutritional value.
It is not necessary to amend the soil before planting. Instead of complex fertilizers, you can add a mixture to the holes per 1 square meter. m: a third of a glass of wood ash and half a shovel of humus. The mixture is prepared for the sown area and divided into portions according to the number of holes. When planting under film, the mixture is evenly scattered over the potato plot and the ground is dug up. Liming if necessary - as before. case.
The earth is light and depleted
In this case, it is necessary to fill the area under potatoes with nitrogen in the fall: add cow manure at the rate of 30 kg/acre or humus or food waste 60-70 kg per hundred square meters for fall plowing (digging). On acidic soils add additional phosphate rock 2-2.5 kg per hundred square meters. In the spring, amendments are added to the soil for planting, as in the case of heavy, depleted soil. The same complex fertilizers are added to the holes, mixed with a handful of humus and a pinch of grated onion peel or dried ground nettle. You can prepare the mixture in advance for the entire area, but without adding sand, and divide it into portions according to the number of holes. When planting under film, spring dressing is evenly distributed over the area.
Earth light normal
Autumn and spring refueling is not required. In the mixture for adding into the holes, the dose of nitrophoska or nitroammophoska is reduced by 2 times, but bone meal is given 1.5 times more. and won't hurt. Complex fertilizers can be replaced with ash and humus, as in the case of heavy normal soil.
Note: the above rates of applying fertilizers to the hole are averaged for Central Russia. They can be more accurately adjusted to the properties of the local soil (nutrient reserves in it), knowing that per 1 sq. m of potato crop during the growing season requires 5 g of phosphorus, 10-20 g of nitrogen and 15-25 g of potassium. The theft of fertilizers by weeds when applying fertilizer to the hole can be neglected.
Video: example of planting potatoes
Tomatoes
The plant is unpretentious, but the biobarrier from nitrates and phosphates between the greens and the fruits is weak: tomatoes “count” that the rotting pulp of the fruits will become fertilizer for the germinating seeds. That's why Under no circumstances should you give easily migrating mineral fertilizers to tomatoes when planting; in general, tomatoes are fed mainly as plants develop.
Note: tomato trick - after planting the seedlings, sprinkle the soil around each bush with a pinch baking soda, but so that not a single grain gets on the leaves and stem. The fruits will be sweet and without a white column inside.
When planting tomatoes, the soil must first be pickled, not abundantly watered with a pink solution of potassium permanganate or a filtered daily infusion of 10 g of baking powder in 10 liters of water. A day after etching the soil, the seedlings can be planted. Place into each well to a depth of approx. 10 cm with a pinch of wood ash and crushed into dust. Then fill the nest with 3-5 cm of soil and plant the sprout. If tomatoes are planted in a greenhouse, holes need to be dug approx. 20 cm deep, and instead of the indicated ingredients, mix with dry humus (sold in jars and bags) nitrophoska so that it comes out in a tablespoon without top and in a full handful ready mixture to the hole. If nitroammophoska is used, the calculation is made based on a teaspoon with the top per hole. The same method is suitable for planting tomato seedlings in depleted soil.
Note: You should not fertilize the soil for tomatoes and cucumbers (see below) - with an extremely small amount of nutrition, the sprouts will stretch out and wither. Seeds for seedlings are soaked in a solution of humate or other growth stimulant, this is enough. Having then found themselves in favorable conditions from cramped conditions, the young plants will begin to develop rapidly and produce a good harvest.
Video: example of planting tomatoes
cucumbers
Less inclined than tomatoes to accumulate nitrates in fruits, but more demanding on soil quality, and their surface root system weaker. Therefore, feeding cucumbers when planting or sowing is done in a slightly different way. For sowing in the ground or in a greenhouse, a universal means for fertilizing cucumbers is nitrophoska 30 g/sq.m. m or nitroammophoska 20 g/sq.m. open ground or 1.5 times more in a greenhouse. Cultivating cucumbers by planting seedlings will give an earlier harvest, but fertilizing the soil for it is more difficult:
Pepper vegetable
Vegetable (sweet, Bulgarian) is actually very far from plants of the pepper order. It is from the nightshade family; its relatives are potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, but its fruits are somewhat similar to pods of spice peppers. soil Bell pepper very draining; it cannot be planted after any of its relatives, as well as pumpkin, bulbous and root crops. In terms of its tendency to accumulate nitrates in fruits, it is somewhere between a tomato and a cucumber.
Have vegetable pepper and a rather rare feature: Sweet pepper seedlings definitely need feeding half a month after the first leaf appears. Its options, per 1 sq. m tray with seedlings, in descending order of effectiveness:
- Kemira-lux, 1.5 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water;
- Crystalon, 20 g per 10 liters of water;
- Dry solution mineral fertilizers: 2 tsp. , 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate, 3 tsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water.
Sweet peppers do not tolerate heavy, dense, poorly permeable soils, so before planting seedlings, you need to add 3-4 kg of peat or finely chopped straw to heavy soil. Vegetable pepper seedlings are planted in peat pots (it is not advisable to grow them in a common tray). Depending on the properties of the soil, sweet pepper seedlings require the following feeding when planting:
- On dense soils - a handful of peat, 5-10 g of superphosphate in granules and the same amount of potassium sulfate for each pot.
- On soils of average permeability and looseness (loamy) - before planting, 30-40 g of superphosphate and a glass of wood ash per 1 square meter. m of soil. Apply in dry weather and immediately dig up with a spade, otherwise a crust will form on the surface of the soil from the ash.
- On loose permeable soils (sandy loam) - 30-40 g of superphosphate and half as much potassium chloride per 1 sq. m. Apply before planting, then dig up the ground in front of it by half a bayonet.
Strawberry
This is tasty and commercially valuable, but fertilizing it when planting is very labor-intensive:
Berry bushes
Wait for the harvest from fruit tree by autumn after planting it makes no sense, but berry bushes capable of becoming a pleasant exception, at least for a trial, and producing a bountiful harvest next year.
To do this, bush berry seedlings fertilize the trail when planted. way:
- A 200-liter barrel is filled 1/3 with bird droppings, or fresh.
- Fill to the top with water.
- Allow to ferment for at least 5 days in a warm shaded or, better yet, dark place.
- The sludge is drained: it, diluted 1:15-1:20, will be used for fertilizing watering of the garden during the growing season.
- The sludge is raked out, dried in the shade and mixed with peat in a 1:1 ratio by volume.
- Holes for seedlings are dug deeper by a bayonet (approx. 30 cm) than with normal planting.
- 15 cm of the resulting mixture is poured into each hole and covered with 15 cm of excavated soil.
- Plant shrubs as usual.
Free fertilizers
Mentioned above onion peel, nettle dust and wood ash belong to natural fertilizers, in many cases capable of replacing purchased fertilizers for planting: they contain almost no nitrogen, but they contain a rich set of microelements.
Wood ash is obtained from the combustion of any plant waste, incl. weeds; It is often sold as furnace ash.
The nettles are mowed down to be as young as possible; in any case, before flowering, and dried for grinding for 2 weeks. You can also make a very effective fertilizer infusion from nettles for watering during the growing season, and fertilizers for the garden can be obtained from plant food waste: drunk tea, coffee grounds, banana peel, fallen leaves, etc., incl. for the winter in a city apartment, see, for example. video.
In any store such as “Goods for the home and garden” you can easily purchase required set mineral fertilizers. But first you need to make your choice. In the fall, apply only those types that are sparingly soluble and have a long-lasting effect. Otherwise, the granules will simply be washed away by rain, and until spring there will be no useful substances left in the upper layer.
In October, it is good to apply granular fertilizers containing potassium chloride and superphosphate with the addition of fluff lime. Lime is needed to deoxidize the soil. Dolomite flour or chalk also has an equivalent effect. To fertilize trees and shrubs, it is useful to sprinkle complex mineral fertilizers around them, after loosening the soil for better absorption of minerals.
Even beginners can use mineral fertilizers, since the packages always indicate for which crop, how and how much granules should be applied. It’s in vain that someone thinks that “you can’t spoil porridge with butter.” This saying does not apply to fertilizers. If you overdo it, you can damage the soil, and excess nitrates and nitrites will accumulate in vegetables.
Secrets of using mineral fertilizers
There are many subtleties regarding which plant loves which type of mineral fertilizer. For example, potatoes respond poorly to potassium chloride, but sulfate is more suitable for them. Nitroammofoska will also benefit the garden. It is important to remember that mineral fertilizers must be used carefully. To achieve maximum effect, you need to at least know approximately what elements the soil on your site needs.
It is better to conduct a laboratory chemical analysis of the soil. However, this is far from the most affordable service. It is much easier to identify substance deficiencies using traditional methods. To determine the acidity of the soil, you will need litmus paper, vinegar, or a special pH tester, which is commercially available. This device is the most convenient. You can tell if the soil is acidified by visual inspection. The whitish layers speak volumes about this. You can get a good result only with neutral soil acidity.
For getting high yield It is necessary to give plants a full range of microelements. Keeping in mind that nitrogen activates the growth of foliage and shoots, phosphorus promotes the formation of ovaries and flowers, potassium increases resistance garden crops diseases, calcium regulates acidity. These are the main elements, but there are a number of others that plants also need. These are copper, iron, zinc, manganese and others.
Organic fertilizers
Organics have a clear priority over chemicals. Vegetables and fruits grown on natural soil are in increasing demand, even despite their high price On the market. When talking about organic fertilizers, it is not necessary to mean manure. Exists a large number of ways to fertilize the soil, using available materials that are available to every gardener and gardener.
Organic compost plays the main role here. The term “organic” refers not only to grass clippings, straw, fallen leaves, and vegetable tops, although they are very suitable for this. Idle summer residents, who do not have the opportunity to bring in manure, prepare humus from numerous food wastes. These are peelings of potatoes, onions, bananas, apples, rinds of watermelons and melons, egg shells and much more that remains with the housewife during the cooking process.
This entire mass must be placed in a hole specially dug for this purpose or directly on the ground, preferably in a shaded corner land plot. In this case, the contents should be fenced with sheets of slate, iron or boards to ensure the necessary compaction. Organic matter must be constantly moist, so during the dry period it is good to water the pile and then cover it on top plastic film. As the mass is added, it must be pressed down with your feet.
Such a compost heap is a real storehouse of high-quality fertilizer. Due to it, you can increase the humus layer of the earth. To check how the processing of raw materials is progressing, you need to lift the mass from time to time and inspect the lower part. At favorable conditions there must be a lot of red (dung) worms there. They are the main producers of humus. At the same time, there is another benefit: you don’t have to dig up worms somewhere for fishing; there are always plenty of them in the pile.
In the fall, after harvesting, tops and foliage are burned in many areas. This is not recommended. Much more benefit can be gained by placing harvest residues in compost heap. If the area of the site allows, you can even build two. While the mass in one is decomposing, the second goes to digging, and so the process subsequently alternates. Some people do without compost heaps, simply burying grass and tops in holes and trenches. However, as practice shows, this method provides less benefit.
To properly fertilize the soil, a large amount of humus is required. However, the volume of source material is still limited. It can be significantly increased by recycling tree branches and shrubs, which are often simply thrown away or burned. In developed countries, machines have long been used to chop wood, and the small wood chips are then used to prepare compost. IN last years Such units appeared in our country. Therefore, it is worth considering purchasing it.
Alternative methods for improving soil quality
The question of how to fertilize the soil without manure worries land owners. Let's talk about other ways to increase soil fertility. For example, a tincture of nettle or, at worst, any other weed has a good effect. For several days it is placed in a barrel of water - and the nutrient solution is ready. It will even emit a characteristic “manure” smell. Do not throw away the used grass, but place it in a compost heap. A good owner should have waste-free production.
The most valuable natural fertilizer is ash. Ash from burning coal helps the soil, but wood ash is still much better. It contains the entire set of microelements, needed by plants, and in an easily digestible form and in the complete absence of chlorine. The best thing is to add ash before digging the ground. Then it will be distributed evenly in the soil and will restore fertility over the winter. It is enough to add ash once every 3 years. Potatoes, cabbage, strawberries and raspberries are responsive to this fertilizer. Ash, among other things, drives away harmful insects.
If there is a lot of ash, for example when burning logs or thick tree trunks, then it can be stored for future use. To do this you need to use plastic bags or glass jars so that the contents do not get wet. At the same time, provide air access to the ash. Ash should be added to the soil in highly crushed form for better absorption.
In the vacant area after harvesting experienced gardeners green manure is sown. This is another effective and cheap way enrich the earth with valuable microelements. The best crops Mustard, peas, rye, and rapeseed are considered for this purpose. After the plants grow 10 centimeters, they are buried in the ground. During the decomposition process, the necessary substances are formed. In addition, green manure loosens the soil with its roots, improves water permeability and aeration of the ground layer.
The most affordable fertilizers
In some regions, it is practiced to add peat to the site due to its availability. However, it should not be used in its pure form. It is better to add peat to the compost heap. It is not recommended to overuse peat, since, despite the abundance of useful organic substances and the ability to retain moisture, it is quite acidic. True, in the lower layers the peat reaction becomes slightly acidic.
Heavy clay soil must be “diluted” with a loose mass. Sand is suitable for this; it is better if it is river sand, without clay impurities. Almost every regional center has sawmills or sawmills that produce a lot of sawdust. They can also be added to the ground for autumn digging, but not fresh, but in a semi-rotted form. Sawdust can become good component for preparing compost humus.
In rural areas, many people keep poultry. Chicken manure is also an excellent fertilizer; crops easily absorb it. You just need to use it correctly. Under no circumstances should you introduce fresh as a top dressing for trees or shrubs, since droppings can “burn” the roots. But you can apply it for continuous autumn digging, but not every year. The fact is that nutrients remain in the soil for a long time in the required concentration.
Owners personal plots It’s a good idea to take a closer look at elevators, flour mills, and grain mills, if there are any in your region. These enterprises, in addition to their main products, produce a lot of valuable waste. This is the husk of buckwheat and millet, the crushed mass remaining after threshing and cleaning the seeds of cereals, rapeseed and sunflower. This raw material, which can practically be taken for free, can be either directly applied to the ground, scattered in an even layer, or placed on compost.
A good harvest can only be obtained on good soil, and for the land to be good, it must be fertilized. When is it better to fertilize the soil - in spring or autumn? The timing of applying fertilizer to the soil is of great importance. Many agronomists believe that those who fertilize the land with manure removed in winter make a big mistake. The benefit is minimal. The soil should be fertilized in the spring, leaving the manure to sit for a month and a half before plowing. In this case, the efficiency of the fertilizer will almost double. The varieties, timing of application to the soil and the effectiveness of various types of fertilizers will be discussed in this article.
Timing for applying fertilizers in the spring
Experts consider the spring season to be the most favorable time for applying all types of fertilizers to the soil: organic, necessarily prepared in advance, mineral, taken in strictly defined doses, as well as their mixtures. They begin the procedure of fertilizing the garden soil after the snow cover has melted. Some amateur gardeners practice spreading fertilizers on top of the snow, but with this method, the applied substances can “float away” from the site along with melt water.
You can start fertilizing fruit trees without waiting for the soil near the trunk to thaw completely. Vegetables and flower crops It is recommended to feed immediately before planting. In order not to forget what fertilizers to apply, where and when, you need to make a plan in advance. In this case, all plants are guaranteed to receive necessary microelements in an optimal quantity for their development. When applying fertilizers, you cannot act on the principle: the more, the better. Because organic and mineral substances added in excess can have a detrimental effect on the condition of the crops being grown. Mineral fertilizers and mixed fertilizers require special care. When working with these types of fertilizers, you must follow the doses indicated on the label.
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Soil types by consistency
First, we need to understand what we have so that the use of fertilizers in the garden is competent. There are the following types of soil consistency:
Sandy, sandy loam, clayey and loamy. To determine what kind of soil is on your site, you can do the following test. Take some earth into a bowl and add water to make something similar to a dough. We need to try to make a donut. If you manage to do this without difficulty, the “donut” does not crack - the soil is clayey - consider yourself lucky. If it cracks a little or breaks, it’s loamy. If you can’t even make a donut, everything falls apart – sandy or sandy loam.
Owners of a vegetable garden with CLAY OR LOAM SOIL you need to ensure that a dry crust does not form on the top layer (loose under each bush), and also that there is no stagnation of water. Such land needs to receive fertilizers in the spring, such as: sand, peat, manure (if possible - rotted - under perennials– up to 10 kilograms per 1 sq.m., for the rest – up to 7 kg.). And if you add chopped twigs or straw, you will make digging much easier. If you apply the above-mentioned fertilizers from year to year for many years, the soil will change in the right direction.
SANDY AND SANDY LOAM SOILS also have their pros and cons. This type of soil heats up well and quickly, but does not store this heat well, and has quite a few microelements in its composition. When digging up the garden is in full swing in the spring, you need to add compost and peat. To improve the ability of sandy soil to retain moisture, as well as for its fertility, experienced gardeners mix the existing soil with turf. Also, mineral fertilizers selected and purchased for each will only benefit separate culture most suitable.
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MAIN RULE in applying fertilizers to your land is to prevent an excess of microelements, which can harm both plants and people. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on all fertilizer packages.
Application of organic and mineral fertilizers to the soil in spring
In spring, the soil must be saturated with substances necessary plants at the initial stage of growth. When asked which fertilizers are better, the answer is that you can use both mineral and organic substances. Most best option- their combination. 
How to fertilize the soil in spring with organic fertilizers
The best time to add organic matter is in the spring, after the snow melts. Many people prefer to spread fertilizer directly on the snow. But then they can be washed away by melt water and then the plants themselves will not have enough useful components. The most important thing is to get there before plowing begins.
Organic include
- humus,
- ash,
- compost,
- peat bog
- bird droppings or manure.
The most universal and well-known organic fertilizer is humus. It can be found in almost all gardening areas, because every summer resident tries to provide himself with it. The recommended norm is one bucket per square meter. Method of application: before digging up the area, spread it in an even layer.
Organic substances fill the earth with necessary substances and have a positive effect on the composition of the soil. But you shouldn’t get too carried away with them. Spring feeding is preferable. No more than once every 3-4 years on heavy clay soils. On sandstones a little less often - once every 2 years. 
It is difficult to determine how much nitrogen is contained in compost or humus. Therefore, you should not get too carried away with fertilizing. An excess of organic matter can lead to negative results. This can be disastrous for young seedlings. Brown leaves, a light coating on the plants themselves and around them are a sign of the appearance of a fungus. To prevent the appearance of fungus along with humus, it is necessary to add ash from dolomite flour. This neutralizes the soil.
The main disadvantage of manure is the presence of various weed seeds in it. Weeds end up in it with bedding and animal feed. Once in the soil, the seeds germinate, clogging the area weeds. Fresh manure is not used in spring!
Adding organic matter in spring has a beneficial effect on soil structure and plant growth. It is even better to feed the soil using a combination of organic and mineral substances. For example, compost is well mixed with lime. Peat compost (a mixture of peat and manure) is mixed with phosphate rock.
How to fertilize the soil in spring with mineral fertilizers
Since organic fertilizers feed the soil mainly with nitrogen, plants may experience potassium and phosphorus starvation, which will negatively affect the initial stage of development. Therefore, it is necessary to use agrochemicals that will restore the nutritional balance. The rates for applying mineral fertilizers in spring are as follows:
- phosphoric (superphosphate) - 250 g/m²;
- potash (or wood ash) – 200 g/m²;
- nitrogen (nitrate, urea, urea) – 300g/m². Nitrogen fertilizers are applied only if the soil has not received organic matter.
Ready mineral supplements help to correctly calculate the application dose. They reduce the labor intensity of fertilizing work when planting plants, and guarantee a predictable result.
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They nourish and protect plants. For example, the Crystallon complex not only contains the necessary set of macro- and micronutrients, but also improves immunity, protecting the plant from fungus.
And especially for potatoes, which are grown in almost every garden, a ready-made organomineral complex “Bulba” has been developed. They treat the soil with it before planting to stimulate the germination of bushes. Mineral fertilizers must be applied to the soil every year. They are quickly absorbed by plants, and therefore their supply is quickly depleted.
The main problem with spring feeding soil with mineral fertilizers - they can be washed too quickly into the lower layers of the soil during precipitation, and leave the land plot along with groundwater. Therefore, they must be applied several days before planting, or scattered in the grooves between the rows of garden plants and in tree trunk circles garden trees. 
How to fertilize the soil in spring with organic-mineral fertilizers
They are humic compositions of mineral and organic substances. Each drug is used according to individual scheme, but there are also general rules. For open soil spraying is used, and for closed - surface watering, drip irrigation, sprinkling and manual spraying on leaves. For seed treatment, 300-700 ml of fertilizers per ton of seeds are used, for foliar feeding - 200-400 mm per 1 hectare of crops, for spraying - 5-10 ml per 10 liters of water, and for drip irrigation– 20-40 ml per 1000 liters of water for irrigation.
Separately, it is worth mentioning plants that improve the soil. These include rapeseed, oilseed radish, rapeseed, turnip and others. Until recently, only lupine was used to improve the soil, which enriched the soil with nitrogenous mineral fertilizers, but in Lately Other equally useful and effective plants became known.
For example, after harvesting, you can sow the area with rapeseed, which will have time to sprout before the onset of frost and grow to a plant with 6-8 leaves in a rosette. In early spring, after the snow melts, it will begin to grow intensively and should be plowed into the soil before the beginning of May. After this, the earth will be enriched with mineral and organic substances and improve the structure. In addition, rapeseed contains a large amount of phytoncides, which destroy pathogens in the soil.
If there is a possibility of not using a plot of land for a whole year, then you can sow it with oilseed radish. In this case, the soil will receive the necessary norm nutrients, and there will be much less weeds. Approximately 70 grams of radish seeds per hectare of land. For uniform sowing, it is better to mix the seeds with river sand.
For many, it may be a “discovery” that agronomy is an exact science that allows you to calculate the expected yield. Forecasts are made for each crop separately, taking into account the actual amount of fertilizer in the soil, data on the application of fertilizers per hundredweight of product, type and variety of plants, percentage of humus and temperature conditions development in different phases for each climate zone. Using such calculations, you can achieve maximum results with minimal financial costs.
In addition, precise rationing of applied fertilizers eliminates the appearance of nitrates in plants, which are very harmful to human body substances. And one last thing. Improper application of mineral fertilizers can significantly reduce the natural fertility of the soil and deteriorate its structure, and these are very important characteristics of any garden plot.
In spring, it is advisable to apply a full range of fertilizers. Why?
- It is possible to more accurately calculate the dose for each individual crop. In this case, predecessors are taken into account.
- The amount of fertilizers is greatly reduced. The fact is that after autumn application, approximately 80% of the original amount remains in the soil by spring. active ingredients. This figure is not universal; some minerals (nitrogen) are very quickly washed out of the soil, while others tend to accumulate in it (potassium). If applied in the fall, the dose should be increased taking these factors into account.
An exception to this rule should be made for organic fertilizer (other than compost). Fresh organic matter introduced in the spring will not have time to rot and will not be fully absorbed by the plants. This, of course, does not matter, the organic matter will remain next year, but labor costs increase.
Important note. Should never be entered fresh manure cattle, this not only gives the plants a minimum of nutrients, but also brings big problems for plant growers. In fresh manure, more than 90% of weed seeds remain viable. If you apply such fertilizers in the spring, then at the same time a massive sowing of weeds is done, and then it is very difficult to fight them.
All organic matter must be rotted (composted) subject to special conditions. If this ordinary leaves and waste from garden beds, it is enough to make special containers for them. Cattle manure should be stored in large piles for at least two years. During this time, weed seeds that have fallen into manure from grass or hay will lose their germination.
When to fertilize in spring
The question worries many summer residents, and not only them. There are three periods in total for applying fertilizers in the spring, each of them has its own characteristics.
| Time | Efficiency |
|---|---|
| As soon as the snow cover begins to melt, fertilizers are scattered over it. The easiest and fastest, but most unsuccessful method. The reason is real - some of the fertilizers will be washed away by melt water, and it is even theoretically impossible to calculate the amount of remaining nutrients. This method can be considered justified only in one case - it was not possible to introduce plowed soil in the fall, and in the spring it is necessary to carry out too much work. Organic fertilizers must not be applied in this way. |
| An effective method that gives maximum results. Fertilizers have a reserve of time to penetrate into the soil to the depth of the root system. After applying fertilizer, it is better to immediately cover it with a layer of soil. If this is not possible, then closure is performed during sowing. |
| A rather complex and dangerous method, there is a high probability of an error with the norm. If you have modern agricultural sowing equipment, then such application of mineral fertilizers is justified. If fertilization is done manually, then it is better not to use this technique. |
In any case, you need to remember the main rule - fertilizers must be applied fractionally as the plants develop, at least three times during the growing season and ripening. You should never try to give the entire dose at once; it will do nothing but harm. When, how much and what kind of fertilizers need to be applied depends on the specific type of plant and the expected harvest. In addition, you should consider which part of the plant is used for food: roots, stems and leaves or fruits. This is separate and complex topic, we need to talk about it in a separate article.
Mineral fertilizers for spring application
First we need to say a few words about distinctive features different types of mineral fertilizers, this will make it easier to navigate the deadlines. All mineral nutrients are divided into three groups according to their effects on plant development:
- nitrogen. Significantly increases the green mass of plants. Therefore, the increased dose should be for salads, cabbage, etc.;
- phosphorus. Increases the number and weight of fruits. It is necessary to increase the dose for all grains, strawberries, peas, etc.;
- potassium. Improves the development of the root system. Application rates increase for root crops: carrots, beets, potatoes, etc.
Of course, the effect of fertilizers is much more complex, but it is in these areas that the maximum impact is observed. It must be remembered that there cannot be a fruit harvest without roots and leaves; plants require feeding with all substances. For such purposes, complex fertilizers (liquid or granular) are produced. Before applying, you need to carefully study the percentage composition of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus, decide on the required indicators and only then buy and apply. For amateur gardeners, many manufacturers immediately indicate on the packaging the names of the crops for which it is recommended to apply this or that complex fertilizer and the approximate dose.
As for the quantity, there are no general tips for all cases. Experienced gardeners do soil analysis every two to three years for the state of residual minerals (they are always present in the soil in varying quantities) and the percentage of humus. Next, the quantity for each type of fertilizer required for normal development plants, the missing dose is determined. In most cases, it is enough to apply 200–400 g per 10 m2 of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen; the specific ratio of fertilizers depends on the crops grown and the natural fertility of the soil.
Fertilizer application
In the spring, during germination, it is first necessary to ensure maximum development of the root system; for this, fertilizers containing a lot of potassium are added to the soil. Next, to accelerate the development of green mass, the plants should be fed with nitrogen and phosphorus should be added during fruit ripening.
Important. Plants react differently to each type of fertilizer. If you don’t particularly need to monitor the dose of potassium (plants will never consume excess), then nitrogen must be handled extremely carefully (the amount of nitrogen used by plants is not controlled, the leaves become dark green, very large and unsuitable for consumption). Agronomists strongly recommend keeping a journal in which to make notes about the timing of fertilizer application, their name and quantity. In addition, the specific site must be indicated, what plants were grown on it and how much was harvested. To compile and control crop rotation, you need to have a separate notebook.
Complex mineral fertilizers
In spring you can apply a full range of complex fertilizers. Their use has a number of advantages over ordinary ones.
- It is possible to select the percentage composition of nutrients taking into account the organic needs of each crop.
- The frequency of fertilization is significantly reduced, plant care is made easier, and their productivity increases.
Depending on the type, they are used for application to the soil before preparation or as top dressing during the growing season.
Microelements
Improves the health of plants, reduces the likelihood of viral and bacterial diseases, improve their resistance to unfavorable conditions growth. Are being entered in early spring during pre-sowing preparation soil. Doses must be carefully calculated independently or followed the manufacturers' recommendations. It is advisable to do a chemical analysis of the soil before application. Exceeding the recommended amount of microelements can cause inhibition of plant growth.
Organic fertilizers for spring application
As mentioned above, in the spring you should not apply fresh manure from animals that eat grass or hay. Organic fertilizers have one very important advantage before inorganic ones - they not only serve as an excellent fertilizer for plants, but also at the same time significantly improve the mechanical structure of heavy soils and increase the amount of natural humus. Humus is bacteria that actively participate in the absorption of minerals by plants.
- Humus. It is recommended to apply before directly preparing the soil for spring sowing, needs immediate soil closure. Otherwise the majority organic compounds will quickly disappear.
Humus
- It is applied at the same time and using the same technology as manure. But you should be very careful with this fertilizer. Some unscrupulous manufacturers sell peat with high acidity. Its application not only reduces yields, but also causes significant damage to the soil. Subsequently, they will have to be deoxidized, which means additional loss of time and money.
- A very aggressive fertilizer; if the dose is exceeded, it can significantly damage plants. The litter must be diluted with water before application. It is advisable to water the plants in the spring after planting and during the next feeding.
- . It is made from various organic waste, including food waste. It is applied during pre-sowing soil preparation with simultaneous incorporation. A very valuable fertilizer for universal use, but only if it is prepared with unconditional compliance with agricultural technology.
- The quantity can not be regulated, is not washed out of the soil, plants only use required quantity nutrients. Disadvantages - difficulties during spring application; work should only be done in calm weather. Experienced gardeners recommend sprinkling spring snow with ash - the soil under the beds warms up much faster.
- . There is still an unusual fertilizer in our country, one of the most effective and environmentally friendly. Worms are brought into the ground in the spring when it warms up to +12 at a depth of 10–15 cm. Work should be carried out carefully, upper layer can be subjected to pre-sowing treatment a few days after adding worms. Disadvantage: highly productive heat-loving worms are used for breeding; most of them die in winter. If agricultural technology is followed correctly, then worms will also live in ordinary soil, although their number is not enough to significantly increase productivity.
- They are widely used among flower growers and gardeners. The preparations contain microorganisms that improve the absorption of minerals from the soil. This is the same humus, only in a concentrated state. Apply in spring during sowing different cultures, soils must be warmed up to optimal temperatures. Some bacteria convert forms of mineral substances inaccessible to plants into accessible ones, and some accumulate nitrogen from the air and fix it on the root system of plants.
- It is made from organic sediments of reservoirs and can be applied both before spring soil preparation and during sowing. Be sure to cover with earth.
Using the information provided, it will be possible to more consciously choose the time, method, name and amount of fertilizer to apply in the spring.
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