Immediately after the pleasant sowing of seeds and seedlings, the summer resident begins a difficult period of fighting weeds, which grow better and faster than any crop planted on the territory. Of course, if your dacha plot is small, then you won’t feel any special problems, but what about those who have 20 or 40 acres of land? How to get rid of grass in your garden once and for all folk remedies?

Getting rid of weed once and for all
Since summer passes quite quickly and not a single summer resident wants to spend it raising weeds, effective methods and means have been invented to make life much easier. What are these methods and how to use them?

How to get rid of grass in the garden - options

Many gardeners simply dream of forever forgetting about such troubles as weeds. But this cannot be done fully. Why? Even if you regularly uproot all the weeds, the seeds of these pests are in large quantities in the soil, so they germinate immediately. Of course, it is better to destroy weeds at an early stage, otherwise its root system will completely drown out the weak roots of vegetable crops. In addition, weeds feed on the juices of a fertile plant, depriving it of nutrients.

Today there are two known ways to combat harmful vegetation:

1. Mechanical.
2. Chemical

Mechanical The method involves pulling out weeds by hand. But there is no guarantee that after this the weeds will not come back with renewed vigor. Weeds grow especially actively after rains, so this option is more suitable for those summer residents who have a small area. If you decide to use a mechanical method, then pay attention to the rules for cultivating the land: for this it is important to use garden tools and pull out plants by the roots, without leaving them in the soil.

Regarding chemical method, it includes the use of herbicides. But this method can be dangerous for planted crops, so it is not recommended.

How to fight weeds with folk remedies

Before herbicides were invented, people dealt with weeds using folk remedies, which turned out to be no less effective. We offer you several effective ways.

Alcohol. If you want to grow a crop in your summer cottage without using chemicals, then use an alcohol solution. To do this, mix alcohol in a ratio of 1:10 with water and pour it over the future planting site. There will be no weeds in the coming season.

Soap, vinegar and salt. This composition has the effect of a herbicidal soap. To prepare the solution, mix salt, grated laundry soap and vinegar in equal proportions. Let it brew. After this, you can spray the weeds with it.

Many owners of suburban areas try to replace purchased herbicides with “folk” remedies. Acetic acid is usually used as the simplest and safest. For spraying beds, a 5% solution is most often used.
For yard treatment You can also use a more effective “folk” weed killer – vinegar with salt. Prepare such a herbicide as follows:
3.8 liters of vinegar 9% is poured into the bucket;
half a glass of salt is poured there;
add a little liquid soap;
everything is thoroughly mixed.

Use vinegar weed killer in the same way as chemicals. Spraying should be carried out as carefully as possible. Drops from the spray bottle should not be allowed to fall on crop plants. The best time for processing is early morning.
Typically, white vinegar is used to kill weeds. You can also take apple one. Summer residents who decide to use this “folk” herbicide should be aware that in large quantities it can leach nutrients from the soil.

Vinegar and salt. This combination also has a deadly effect on weeds, destroying them forever. To prepare such a solution, you need to mix 5 liters of vinegar and a glass of salt. Mix all this thoroughly and treat the weeds. Since this is a rather dangerous product, make sure that it does not come into contact with healthy plants.

Soda. This product acts as a natural alkali, so it will not harm the soil, but will destroy weeds. To use soda, you need to pour it on the root of the weed and wait for the result, which will not take long to arrive.

Sawdust. This method is suitable for those who have brightly colored beds and they are clearly marked. In the fall, you need to sprinkle sawdust on the edge of the bed and dig it up. With the arrival of spring, fill the edges of the bed with sawdust again and leave it like that. The root system of the weed will not be able to break through the sawdust, so it will die.

Today you can purchase gentle chemicals that, if used correctly, will not harm your crops. Now you know how to get rid of grass in the garden once and for all using folk remedies. We hope that our tips will help you grow rich harvests of your favorite vegetable crops in your summer cottage.

Weed guide: photos, types, names, control measures

To save your crop from the “invasion” of weeds, you need to understand what kind of plants they are and how to deal with them. We have compiled a visual table with photos, descriptions and the most effective measures to combat common weeds.

Not all weeds are equally harmful. Some weeds can be used to feed livestock and poultry, some of them are medicinal plants. But among the “weed” family there are also poisonous specimens. Our table will help you navigate the types of weeds and wisely select measures to combat “illegals” on your site.

		Control measures: treatment with natural borax after the emergence of the weed, as well as herbicides (Roundup, Lintur); weeding
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial	10 cm	On shady lawns and lawns	In large doses the plant is toxic; sometimes used in folk medicine for asthma, pneumonia, stomach and liver diseases; used for flavoring kvass, alcoholic and tonic drinks

		Control measures: mulching; repeated cutting; digging the soil in autumn and spring; treatment of seedlings with herbicides based on imazapyr, glyphosate and ammonium glufosinate
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
climbing perennial	Up to 1.8 m	In sunny areas	It has medicinal properties and is widely used in folk medicine (most often as a laxative, diuretic and choleretic agent); root shoots germinate at a distance of up to 9 m from the mother lash

		Control measures: early tillage in the spring (the seeds will germinate shallowly and the plants will be easy to remove); weeding before seed formation, preferably at the beginning of flowering; mulching beds and tree trunks; sowing the site with winter rye, which displaces galenzoga
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial	10-80 cm	In well-lit vegetable beds	Originally from Mexico, artificially introduced into Eurasia; one plant produces up to 300,000 seeds

		Control measures: mulching beds and tree trunks; treatment with herbicides immediately after soil cultivation before sowing (Gesagard, Amiben, Kambilen) and after emergence - with herbicides Betanal Expert, Gesagard, Dianat, Kambilen; weeding
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
herbaceous annual	Up to 1 m	Grows in moist soils	Good honey plant; used in folk medicine as a hemostatic, laxative

		Control measures: mulching beds and tree trunks; treatment with pre-emergence herbicides during spring cultivation (Glyphos, Roundup, Tornado); treatment of plants with a 30% solution of potassium salt; weeding (weed stems must be taken outside the site); repeated digging of the earth
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial	Up to 2 m	In areas with fertile soil	Used in folk medicine to treat joint diseases, radiculitis, and also as a hemostatic and multivitamin agent; young leaves and shoots are edible

		Control measures: mulching beds and tree trunks; treatment with pre-emergence herbicides during spring digging of the soil and post-emergence herbicides (Esteron, Chistalan) in the early stages of weed growth; weeding in the flowering phase before seeds appear
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
herbaceous annual	Up to 30 cm	On sandy, rocky soils	The seeds have medicinal properties and are used for gastrointestinal disorders as a diuretic; leaves and shoots are poisonous

		Control measures: mulching beds and flower beds; weeding (before the seeds ripen); treatment with post-emergence herbicides in the basal leaf phase (Agritox, Agroxon, Herbitox, Metafen)
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial	Up to 30 cm	Lawns and lawns in sun or partial shade	The leaves have medicinal properties, are edible, contain vitamins B 2 and C, carotene, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, choline, manganese, iron

		Control measures: mulching beds and tree trunks; treatment with post-emergence herbicides in the early stages of weed growth (Lontrel, Lontrel-300, Ballet CE); weeding
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
herbaceous perennial	Up to 20 cm	On moist, dense soils	Has antiseptic properties; used in folk medicine in the treatment of respiratory diseases, gastritis, to improve digestion; young leaves are eaten; one plant produces up to 15,000 seeds

		Control measures: mulching beds and tree trunks; treatment with herbicides before sowing seeds and planting seedlings or in the early stages of weed development (calcium cyanamide, Amiben, Kambilene); weeding
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
herbaceous annual (sometimes biennial)	10-80 cm	On any type of soil	Forage plant; used in folk medicine in the treatment of hypertension, diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, liver, kidneys, bladder, rheumatism; tolerates trampling well

		Control measures: mulching beds and tree trunks; treatment with herbicides before emergence and in the early stages of weed development (Dianat, Difenamide, Amiben); weeding
Type	Height (length)	Where does it grow	Peculiarities
herbaceous annual	Up to 130 cm	On any type of soil, including dry	One plant produces up to 500,000 seeds; has bactericidal, anti-inflammatory, hemostatic properties; leaves are edible; seeds can be fed to poultry

From time immemorial, weeds in a summer cottage have been considered the main problem of any farmer. Weeds not only spoil the appearance of a vegetable garden or garden, but also negatively affect the plants themselves, preventing their root system from developing properly and absorbing nutrients in the required quantities.

Methods of controlling weeds in the garden are one of the most popular topics in many books and television shows dedicated to the cultivation and growth of vegetable crops. This subject is discussed at almost every meeting by all summer residents and gardeners. Probably, this issue has not escaped your personal plot either.

For several centuries, our people have used their own method of eradicating weeds. These funds were justified by time and experience.

However, young farmers and novice summer residents may have a completely justified question: is it possible to fight weeds in the garden in a modern way? Are there the latest methods and technologies that allow you to get rid of unwanted vegetation in your garden as quickly and efficiently as possible? And if so, do they replace proven and traditional methods of controlling plant weeds? Let's find out.

First, we will discuss ancient, time-tested methods of controlling weeds in the garden.

Traditionally. Digging

Digging up your garden is a fairly common method of getting rid of unwanted vegetation. Thanks to it, the grass rhizomes are on the surface, which makes it easier to completely remove it from the garden bed.

However, not all gardeners welcome this method. Firstly, it requires a lot of effort and expense. Secondly, it can negatively affect the condition and fertility of the soil.

And yet, quickly and efficiently getting rid of weeds mechanically is only possible by digging up the soil in autumn or spring.

Weeding

Weeding the beds is one of the important stages of weed control in the garden. In a modern way, this process can be carried out not with the usual hoe, which cuts the plant into fragments, leaving part of the root underground, but with the help of a pitchfork. If you carefully penetrate under the weeds with them, trying to lift it and pull it out of the soil, then the weeds do not disintegrate and do not germinate after a few days.

It is desirable that weeding the soil be accompanied by the absolute removal of unwanted vegetation from the garden plot. Then it will be less likely that rhizomes or weed seeds will sprout new shoots.

Manual removal

Pulling out weeds by hand is a very effective, but painstaking method. It is good because during manipulations you control the situation yourself - you pull out the grass so that not a single root remains in the ground.

Be sure to wear gloves before manual removal. This will help protect your fingers from cuts, irritation, and caustic stains from plant sap.

And remember: it is important to remove weeds not only in the beds, but throughout the entire garden. Vegetation along fences and paths, around fruit trees and bushes - all this must be removed and destroyed, since many weeds can reproduce by seeds spread by the wind.

Modern reception. Shelter

Now let's discuss modern means of controlling weeds in the garden. We will provide photos of the new methods below.

So, cover. This method has been known for a long time, but only recently has it been appreciated. The essence of the method is that the ground around garden crops is covered with some material. For these purposes, mulch (from sawdust, hay, dry leaves, tree bark, sand), cardboard, boards, polyethylene, agrofibre or even linoleum can be used. The first three materials are considered the most harmless, since they are natural products that do not cause any harm to the earth.

Why is this technique so effective? The fact is that for the growth of any plant, including weeds, sunlight is necessary. Therefore, covering the ground around helps inhibit the growth of weeds and their death.

When is it necessary to start implementing this modern method of weed control in the garden? In the spring.

At the beginning of March, you should cover the garden with mulch (the height of the layer is at least five to ten centimeters) or any other covering material, leaving it on the surface of the earth for a whole month. After this, the spreading layer must be removed, dead weeds removed and the beds slightly fluffed up.

After planting, the soil can again be covered with mulch or black film (with holes pre-cut in it for seedlings or seedlings). Thus, sunlight will be unavailable to the weeds, but it will have a positive effect on the cultivated plant.

This method of controlling weeds in the garden is also called the “Swedish bed” in a modern way.

Chemistry

This method involves the use of herbicides, which are the most effective new means of destroying unwanted vegetation.

When is the best time to carry out such modern weed control in the garden? Before sowing the garden.

However, there are different opinions on this issue. Some gardeners completely refuse to use pesticides, considering them harmful to cultivated plants and not wanting to take risks. Others are not afraid to use herbicides even in the summer, carefully applying them to unwanted weeds.

Types of chemicals

Modern chemical weed control in the garden includes the use of the latest developments in the field of herbicides and strict adherence to their instructions. Below are some of the chemicals available in stores.

"Roundup". The properties of this herbicide are based on the active ingredient glyphosate, which has an effect directly on the plant. That is, this product does not have a negative effect on the soil, since when it gets into it, it does not accumulate, but only affects the root system. The result will be visible within a few weeks after spraying. However, it should be remembered that the pesticide only destroys plants, without in any way affecting its seeds located in the soil, which can germinate within a month after treatment.

"Tornado". This drug is used for spraying potato fields, roadsides, garden trees, and vineyards. The effect of the treatment will be noticeable within a few weeks. Does not affect the soil.

"Hurricane". Copes not only with perennial weeds, but also with bush-type weeds. The final result should be expected within ten to twelve days. The consumption of the drug is economical and does not have a negative effect on the soil.

Ammonium nitrate A. The positive properties of this product are that it burns the weed until it is completely destroyed and settles in the soil, after which it acts on garden crops as a mineral fertilizer.

"Lapis lazuli". It is used against weeds in potato and tomato beds. The active substance of the drug is metribuzin, which acts both through the soil and through the root system, after which it quickly breaks down into harmless particles. It is low toxic and inexpensive.

"Lontrel". Used on strawberry beds and lawns. The active element is clopyralid. It does not accumulate in the soil, as it is quickly destroyed by sunlight and oxygen.

"Weeded". It has two active substances (dicamba and chlorsulfuron), so the spectrum of action of the drug also has two stages - the destruction of the plant and the blocking of their biosynthesis. It is used for lawns and destroys more than a hundred types of weeds, starting to act ten days after treatment.

How can these and many other herbicides be used to kill specific types of weeds? This will be discussed below.

Chemicals against weeds

First, let’s find out what you can use to remove it from your garden plot. horsetail. Modern weed control in the garden involves the use of such advanced, potent drugs as:

• "Roundup Max." This product penetrates the rhizome through the stem of the harmful plant. The result will be lightning fast, and planting work can be carried out within three days after spraying.
• "Glyphos". This drug is best used to control weeds in the garden in a modern way in the fall or early spring, since the absolute destruction of pests will occur only after a month. After achieving the result, the herbicide breaks down into harmless elements.
• "Totril 225". What is the effect of this drug on horsetail? Control of weeds in the garden in a modern way with the help of Totril is carried out through the leaves of the weed plant and will be completed in two weeks.

Is it possible, through the use of herbicides, to rid the garden of such a harmful plant as spurge? Modern weed control in the garden can clear the soil for a long time even of this strong plant with a long root system. Chemicals such as Lapis Lazuli, Dicamba, and Roundup can help with this. However, it is important to remember that weed processing is best done in June, combined with thorough weeding.

Is it possible to remove harmful plants from beds with the help of pesticides? carrots? Of course, if you choose the right active ingredient.

Modern weed control for carrots in the garden involves, first of all, the use of a herbicide such as "Zenkor", which, according to the instructions, can be used even during crop growth. However, this should be done with extreme caution. Many experienced summer residents recommend using this product before the first shoots appear.

So, we found out what modern chemicals and methods exist to control weeds in the garden. Now let's take a brief look at the basic rules for their use.

How to apply herbicides?

Before using this or that type of pesticide, you should carefully read the instructions for its use. Although some prescriptions may vary (especially the dosage of the drug), there are specific general rules that should be followed when killing weeds with herbicides.

Here are some of them:

1. Before using pesticides, you should protect your skin from contact with active substances. To do this, it is recommended to wear gloves, a protective mask, and goggles.
2. Under no circumstances should you sniff herbicides.
3. Strict measures should be taken to protect garden crops growing nearby. They must be tightly covered with waterproof film. It is best to spray before planting or after harvesting.
4. Treatment should be carried out in warm and calm weather. It is also recommended to wait until the dew disappears.

Regarding the destruction of weeds, there are many other proven methods of farmers and effective advice from summer residents. Modern weed control in the garden includes several more methods. We'll talk about them below.

Alcohol

This remedy was very popular in the United States several decades ago. Its essence is that a month and a half before planting seedlings or sowing seeds, the designated area should be generously watered with a six percent alcohol solution (one hundred and fifty grams of vodka per bucket of water). Alcohol will stimulate the rapid growth of weed seeds, after which it can be pulled out of the soil and destroyed.

Fire

Also one of the unusual methods, rarely used by novice summer residents. However, if you acquire the skills, the result will not take long to arrive.

In this method, weeds are destroyed using fire from a blowtorch or a hair dryer. However, it is important not to overdo it, so as not to burn the soil and grown garden crops.

Logical conclusion

As you can see, ridding a garden of weeds is not an easy and time-consuming task. However, it is important. Weeds can choke the growth and development of cultivated plants, reducing their viability and productivity.

How to deal with green pests? This can be done using old proven methods (weeding, digging and others), as well as through the use of herbicides, alcohol, fire and “Swedish beds”.

Not all weeds can be easily removed and destroyed. Therefore, it will not always be necessary to use simple and conventional methods to achieve the expected result. Why not try something new and enjoy the fast-acting effects?

Moreover, stories about the terrible harm caused by herbicides are already a thing of the past. Now there are many drugs created in accordance with the latest technologies and developments. Thanks to them, pesticides no longer have harmful contraindications. On the contrary, some of them can self-cleave, thereby having a positive effect on garden crops.

Of course, all herbicides should be used carefully and only in extreme cases, while not forgetting to use protective devices both for yourself and for cultivated plants.

And, of course, we must not forget about other modern methods of fighting weeds - mulching and covering free soil, treating the soil with alcohol, and so on.

If, during the massive growth of weeds, you resort to a variety of methods to combat them and strictly follow the instructions, then within a few weeks your garden will become immaculately clean and harmless with regard to pesticides.

And every person knows about this. They take nutrients from the soil that are intended for agricultural crops. Rapidly growing weeds prevent other plants from developing normally. Because of this, the destruction of pest plants is a problem for all summer residents.

Weed control is not easy, and some control methods cause the grass to multiply even faster. Weeds can also enter a summer cottage from neighbors, for example, if they reproduce by roots. Seeds can fly in with the wind, and considering that the germination of weeds can persist for years, weeding a plot of land with a hoe seems like a thankless job. But there are ways to fight it.

Control of annual weeds

Nothing better has yet been invented than mechanical weed removal. But a hoe cannot always give the desired result, it all depends on the type of weed. Weeding will be effective only if it is necessary to remove annual weeds from the area. In this case, it is easiest to deal with those specimens that have not had time to develop the root system and above-ground parts. It is advisable to weed the area after rain to make it easier to pull the roots out of the ground.

Perennial weed control

Weeding perennial weeds will not give the desired results; on the contrary, the grass will begin to multiply and grow much faster due to chopping and damage to the root system with a hoe. Similar plants include wheatgrass and thistle. They grow very strongly and can even pierce potato tubers with their tough roots.

To combat wheatgrass and sow thistle, it is necessary to dig up the soil with a pitchfork to a depth of at least 30 centimeters. Only in this case can you pull out the entire rhizome of the plant without damaging it. This method of controlling perennial weeds is very effective, but a piece of the root may still remain in the ground. The land must be cultivated regularly, and only then, after a few years, these two types of weed can be completely eliminated.

Another “cunning” and dangerous weed is the weed. For a long time, just two stunted leaves may stick out from the soil, but at this time the plant is developing a powerful root system underground. This weed reproduces by seeds and a piece of root. You can weed and dig up the soil as much as you like, but this will not help. This is because the roots go down to a depth of 40 centimeters. The only way to keep it from dying is by digging some kind of barrier, for example, garden tape, 20 centimeters deep around the plant. You can completely get rid of this weed by covering the land with cardboard or film.

It can be difficult and long to fight. It can germinate up to several times during a season. This weed is a kind of indicator, and appears only where there is stagnation of water and acidic soil. The weed is very difficult to weed out, since a new plant can develop even from a leaf left on the soil. It is important not to let the woodlice bloom; it must be cut off immediately with a flat cutter. To completely get rid of this weed, when digging in the fall, you need to add ash or chalk to the soil. This will reduce acidity and create unfavorable conditions for woodlice.

Common weed control methods

The most common way to control any type of weed is to cover it. Cardboard, black film or mulch are suitable for these purposes. Weeds will not sprout, but when using each of the materials you need to know some tricks.

It is necessary to mulch the soil under tree bushes, between rows of crops. Sawdust, straw, chopped tree bark or hay are suitable for this purpose. The mulch layer should be at least 5 centimeters, only then will it have an effect. Bark and sawdust cannot be used in garden crops because they contain a lot of tannins. Therefore, they can only be sprinkled under trees and bushes. You can cover a large area of ​​land with cardboard and film. This will not allow any weeds to develop. Often, black film is used by those who like to grow strawberries.

Use of chemicals

Herbicides will help completely get rid of weeds, but these products must be handled with extreme caution. When purchasing chemicals, it is important to make sure that they are suitable for use on agricultural land, otherwise you can make the soil unsuitable for growing any plants for several years. It always comes with chemicals, you must follow it strictly. If it is said that the solution is applied to the leaf of the plant, then this is exactly what needs to be done. Most herbicides can attack all plants indiscriminately and destroy them. Other herbicides are intended only for certain weeds.

The use of any herbicides harms the soil, so this method of weed control should be used as a last resort. For example, if the area has not been cultivated for several years and is completely overgrown with perennial plants with a powerful root system.

If you are tired of fighting weeds manually, you can resort to herbicides. And if you use them wisely, without violating the instructions, then their use will not negatively affect the soil and your health.

There are continuous action herbicides - these are those drugs whose action is aimed at destroying all weeds indiscriminately and selectively - the action of such drugs is selective, for example, they can destroy all grass, except potatoes and tomatoes, etc. That's how far science has come.

Let's look at the most popular and probably the best weed killers.

Herbicide, instructions for use

Zenkor

This is a systemic herbicide with a broad spectrum of action against dicotyledonous and cereal weeds in the pre- and post-emergence period of their development. It is used on potatoes, tomatoes, alfalfa and essential oil crops. Active ingredient: metribuzin, which is easily absorbed by the roots and seedlings of plants, and also penetrates through the leaf surface of the plant.

Zenkor destroys weeds at the moment of their germination (with pre-emergence application) or within 10-20 days with post-emergence application.

Advantages of this herbicide:

• ensures cleanliness of crops from weeds for a period of 1-2 months or more, depending on weather conditions during the growing season and soil type;
• reliability: confirmed through widespread use in various soil and climatic zones.

How to use Zenkor

On tomatoes. The amount of solution for processing 1 hundred square meters of land is indicated.

• Spraying the soil before planting tomato seedlings. Dissolve 10-15 g of Zenkor in 3 liters of water;
• spraying crops in the phase of 2-4 leaves of the crop. 7 g of the drug per 3 liters of water;
• spraying weeds 15-20 days after planting seedlings in the ground. 10 g per 3 liters of water.

On potatoes. 3 liters of working solution is enough to spray 1 hectare of land.

• Spraying the soil before potato sprouts. 7-14 g of Zencor per 3 liters of water.
• spraying the soil before crop emergence with subsequent treatment at a tops height of 5 cm. 5-10 g per 3 liters of water;
• spraying of plantings with a height of potato tops of 5 cm. Dilute 7-8 g in 3 liters of water.

Tornado

This is a universal, continuous action drug that serves to destroy all types of weeds, including malicious ones such as wheatgrass, thistle, bindweed and unwanted trees and shrubs.

Active ingredient: glyphosate (isopropylamine salt). The herbicide is available in containers of 5 ml (ampoule), 50 ml, 100 ml, 1000 ml (bottle).
Analogues of the drug Tornado: Glysol, Glialka, Ground, Roundup, Hurricane, GliTERR.

How does Tornado herbicide work?

It has a systemic effect, penetrates weeds through leaves and other green parts and is transported throughout all organs of the weed, reaching their root system. The herbicide blocks the synthesis of aromatic amino acids, which leads to damage to growth points and complete death of above-ground and underground organs. Tornado does not affect seeds.

Symptoms of the drug’s effect on annual weeds become noticeable after 4 - 5 days, on perennial weeds - after 7 - 10, on trees and shrubs and reeds - on the 20 - 30th day after treatment and appear in the form of yellowing, then drying out of the leaves. Next, the stems, roots and rhizomes die off. Complete death of weeds occurs approximately 3 - 4 weeks after treatment, and tree and shrub vegetation - after 1 - 2 months. Under unfavorable weather conditions (cold, drought, precipitation), the effect of the herbicide may slow down.

Advantages of this herbicide:

• high penetrating ability;
• ability to destroy 155 species of weeds;
• ideal for tilling the soil before sowing.

When spraying, you need to make sure that Tornado does not get on cultivated plants and forest belts. To avoid spray drift onto crops, it is not recommended to carry out treatment at wind speeds of more than 5 m/s.

Since this herbicide does not have soil activity, selective herbicides must be used to kill weeds growing from seeds after crop emergence.

How to use Tornado

• Against annual cereals and dicotyledons, 20-40 ml/100 sq.m. is sufficient. m;
• against perennial cereals and dicotyledons - 40-60 ml/100 sq.m;
• against malicious perennials (field bindweed, pink bitterweed, horsetail, horsetail) - 60-80 ml/100 sq.m;
• against hydrophytic (aquatic) - 80-100 ml/100 sq.m;
• against deciduous trees and shrubs - 40-80 ml/100 sq.m.

The dosage is influenced by the type of weed, stage of development, foliage, and grass density.

The recommended concentration of the working solution is 1 - 3%. The working solution is prepared immediately before spraying and is not stored. First, the drug is thoroughly mixed in the original packaging, then the required amount of the drug is measured for one sprayer refill. Fill the sprayer tank approximately halfway with water and pour in a measured amount of herbicide, mix and bring the sprayer tank to full volume with water. Mix everything thoroughly.

Treatments with Tornado can be carried out at any above-zero temperatures, both in spring and autumn.

Treatment should be carried out in calm, dry weather and not in the sun. Rain falling earlier than 4 hours after spraying can wash away the drug that has not penetrated the weed leaves and significantly reduce the effectiveness of the herbicide.

Prima

This is a systemic post-emergence herbicide intended for the control of annual and some perennial dicotyledonous weeds in grain crops and corn. Affects weeds that have already sprouted at the time of treatment.

Destroys many dicotyledonous weeds, including such malicious and difficult-to-eradicate species as tenacious bedstraw, odorless chamomile, thistle, yellow sow thistle and others.

Active ingredient: 2,4-D (2-ethylhexyl ester) + florasulam.

How does Prima herbicide work?

It is easily absorbed and quickly (literally within an hour) spreads throughout the weed plant, blocking growth processes.

Symptoms of damage (visible) in plants appear 1-3 days after spraying, and their death occurs on 7-14 days. Rain 1 hour after treatment will no longer affect the effectiveness of Prima herbicide.

Due to the fact that the half-life of the active substances of this drug is only 14-20 days, it quickly degrades in the soil without causing negative consequences for subsequent crop rotation crops.

How to use Prima herbicide

Prepare the working solution immediately before use. To begin with, the drug is thoroughly mixed in the original packaging. The sprayer tank is filled 1/3 with water. Next, add the required amount of the drug per 1 sprayer refill and mix. Then add water to the full volume of the tank and mix the resulting mixture.

On spring and winter wheat, rye, spring barley.

• Spraying crops in the tillering phase of the crop and the early phases of weed growth. Winter crops are processed in the spring. The rate of use of the drug is 0.4-0.6 l. Working fluid consumption is 200-400 l/ha.
• Spraying of crops in the boll phase (1-2 internodes) of the crop and the early phases of weed growth (taking into account the sensitivity of the varieties) in the case of the predominance of tenacious bedstraw; if weather conditions did not allow processing earlier than this date. Winter crops are processed in the spring. The rate of application of the Herbicide is 0.6 l.